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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 1
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 2
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 3
Contents 5
Handy Information 5
City transport 11
Museums, Churches 14 14
Cultural Avenue 22
Sights, Sightseeing 26 11
Antiques road show 34 40 26
Beyond Budapest 38
Shopping 46
36
Restaurants, Entertainment 48
42
Maps 6, 24–25
Legend
« Tram A1 Map coordinate
48 6, 24–25,
« Suburban railway ●
1 Site of museum
ç Bus on map
è Castle bus
●
1 Site of bath,
ë Trolleybus cave on map
1 Metro 1 [1] Photo Publisher: Tourism Office of Budapest
2 Metro 2 the official tourism marketing organization of Budapest
Publication manager: László Paszternák
The following are selected (c) All rights reserved
3 Metro 3 photos submitted to the Edited by Turizmus Kft. · Editor: Brigitta Vajk · Design: András Nász
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 4
Dear Readers
I would like to welcome you to Budapest, a city which not only greets its
guests with a rich history and unique cultural heritage, but also where we,
the residents, can witness day by day its resurgence. That tourism is one of
the most important economic branches of Budapest is evident in the rise in
the number of tourists visiting the capital, and the growth of the quantity
and quality of tourism services. Year on year several dozen new hotels
spring up in Budapest, numerous old buildings are reconstructed, and new
cultural and tourism establishments are born. The capital is made all the
more attractive for being renowned as the location of one of the most
beautiful World Heritage sites, and only Budapest can say of itself that it
has Europe’s largest Parliament, largest functioning synagogue and the
continent’s first underground railway. The visitor will find side by side the
remains of fortresses and buildings from Roman times, still operating
Turkish baths, Gothic and Baroque buildings, and the incredibly rich Art
Nouveau architectural heritage. Not only is Budapest worthy holder of the
title “Queen of the Danube”, but in fact there is not one other capital city
in the world with close on 100 thermal springs and 12 medicinal baths
within its boundaries, where 19 million gallons of thermal water rise to the
surface each day.
Despite the spectacular development, Budapest has preserved its old
charm and magic. It is a city where the pleasing harmony of different
architectural styles and superb structures, the cafés, baths, the gastronomy
and culture, combined with legendary hospitality blend into an
unforgettable experience for visitors. Besides popular programmes and
festivals staged each year the capital’s tourism selection is further enriched
by new, high standard events each season. Tourists can stroll down the
“Pest Broadway”, now taking on a new lease of life, and enjoy a
programme in one of the atmospheric, unique repositories of music calling
to all ages, since there is a choice ranging from live music in the pubs to
the repertoires of the Opera House and the recently rebuilt, magnificent
Operetta Theatre.
So I warmly commend this publication to you, and trust you will find
yourself using it frequently. After careful preparation we compiled it with
great pleasure in the hope that it will allow you to discover what is best in
Budapest.
László Fekete
Director
BTH Budapesti Turisztikai Szolgáltató Kht.
(Tourism Office of Budapest)
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H A N D Y information
Turista információ • Tourist information
INFORMATION OFFICES
Tourinform Main office – Police-info Office
V., Deák tér/Sütô utca 2 (H3) ≥ (36-1)438-8080 ó 8 am–8 pm
Buda Castle
H–1016 Budapest, Szentháromság tér
≥ (+36-1)488-0475, ¥ (+36-1)488-0474
Excursions, sightseeing, World Heritage views, maps, guide services,
general information, car rentals
ó 15 June–15 Sept 9 am–8 pm, 16 Sept–14 June 10 am–7 pm,
1 Nov–31 March Mon–Fri: 10 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–4 pm
PASSPORT, VISA
Entry with a personal ID card
Citizens of the following countries may enter the territory of Hungary with a personal identification card for
a stay of maximum 90 days, provided the purpose of their visit is not to take up work or to conduct
business-related activities: Austria, Belgium, Croatia, France, Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg,
Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland.
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Low-cost airlines
BUDAPEST IN EUROPE
flying to Budapest (as
at November 2004)
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 7
middle of October): GMT +2 Budapest facts and figures Buda: comprising one-third
hours Area: of the area of the city on the
525 square kilometres (in a north- hilly, right bank of the Danube
Holidays south direction approx. 25 km, Pest: comprising two-thirds of
Non-working days: national holi- east-west approx. 29 km) the area of the city on the flat,
days (15 March, 20 August, 23 Oc- Population: left bank of the Danube
tober) and 1 May (May Day) plus 1 815 000 Islands (from north to south):
Christian holidays: 1 January, All Population density: Óbuda Island, Margaret Island,
Saint’s Day (1 November), Easter 3456 persons/square kilometre Csepel Island
Mon., Whit Mon., Christmas and Administrative structure: Bridges: nine bridges, of which
Boxing Day (25–26 December). 23 districts two are rail bridges
ARRIVAL IN BUDAPEST
By train
Budapest has direct rail links to
25 capitals. There are more than
50 international connections each pályaudvar) VI., Nyugati tér,
≥ (+36-1)349-8503
Southern Railway Station (Déli
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By boat
Banknotes: 200 500 1000 2000 5000 10 000 20 000
Exchanging money
Exchanging money is only
permitted in licensed,
designated places. Do not
take the risk of changing
money on the street. You
are likely to find yourself
Hydrofoils run scheduled services with counterfeit money,
from Vienna and Bratislava to the besides which such
heart of Budapest between April transactions are illegal.
and October. The Hungarian National
There are three large Bank gives official daily
international quays on the foreign exchange and
Danube between Széchenyi currency rates on 23
Chain Bridge and Liberty currencies. Most banks
(Szabadság) Bridge. have 24-hour banknote
Information on Mahart Passnave exchange ATMs. Besides
sailings: (+36-1)318-6042 this there are many credit
card and cash card ATMs in
By passenger car operation day and night.
Of the four motorways and four Banks and travel agencies
highways in Hungary, seven can set (and modify) their
depart from Budapest (motorway own exchange rates, taking the bank of issue’s rate as the basis. Any
No. 8 is the exception). bureau de change has to have the current exchange rates clearly
Drivers are obliged to purchase a displayed. Please keep your exchange receipt in a safe place until
motorway sticker for the you depart the country. Broadly speaking, the best exchange rates
motorways M1, M3, M5 and M7 are to be found close to the rail stations and in the city centre (Petôfi
(obtainable at border crossing Sándor Street). Banks generally give a middle rate, and the airport
points and major petrol stations). and hotel exchange rates are not so competitive.
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≥
Hungary code: 36, The capital has every category of fashionable in Budapest. The
Budapest: 1, accommodation from luxury following list details just some of
dialling code for hotel to paying guest rooms. the most popular locations
inland calls: 06. Free copies of Accommodation in offering Internet access:
Budapest Budapest can be picked up from
telephone information offices and hotel AMI
numbers are 7 digits, countryside receptions in town. V., Váci utca 40
numbers (including the trunk Other useful information on ≥ 267-1644
code) 8 digits. accommodation can be found on ó 9 am–2 am
If you wish to phone abroad from the homepage of the Tourism
Hungary, first dial 00, wait for the Office of Budapest: CEU NetPont
tone, and then dial the country www.budapestinfo.hu, and in V., Október 6. utca 14
code, town code and continue information offices (for addresses ≥ 328-3506
with the telephone number. and telephone numbers see page 5). ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–11pm,
Public phones operate with 20, Sat–Sun: 9 am–11 pm
50 and 100 forint coins and Postal services
telephone cards. The latter can Internet Café
be purchased in tobacconists, V., Kecskeméti utca 5
post offices, petrol stations and ≥ 328-0292
newsagents. It is cheaper to ó 10 am–10 pm
phone at the weekend, on public
holidays and in the evening. Internet Studio
Mobile telephone numbers are VI.,Dessewffy utca 45
9-digit, after dialling 06; ≥ 20/481-8688
depending on the telephone ó 10 am–1 am
company, the first two numbers
are 20, 30 or 70. Matáv Belváros
V., Petôfi Sándor utca 17–19
Credit cards ≥ 485-6612
The most commonly used credit ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–8 pm, Sat: 10
cards – AMEX, Diners Club, am–3 pm
Cirrus, EnRoute, Euro/Mastercard,
JCB, VISA – can be used to obtain Netcorner Business Center
cash from ATMs in banks and on VII., Rákóczi út 58
the streets as well as to pay bills ≥ 413-1538
in hotels, restaurants and shops.
Emblems on the door of the Westel-Enternet
establishment detail which credit Post offices are generally open V., Váci utca 1
cards are accepted. from 8 am–6 pm Mon–Fri, 8 ≥ 238-7570
am–noon on Sat. There are two ó 10 am–9 pm
post offices close to the rail
stations in Pest with longer Business centres in the major
opening hours: VI., Teréz körút hotels also offer Internet access
51. (open: Mon–Sat: 7 am–9 pm, facilities.
Sun: 8 am–8 pm), VIII., Baross tér
11/C (open: Mon–Sat: 7 am–9
pm).
IMPORTANT NUMBERS
Postal money services: credit
Ambulance: 104
cards (VISA, VISA Electron,
EuroCard/Mastercard, Maestro) Police: 107
can be used to make cash Fire service: 105
withdrawals at all post offices in Universal enquiries: 197
the capital. Post offices also Inland enquiries: 198
exchange Eurocheques, American International enquiries: 199
Express traveller’s cheques and Auto club help number: 188
postal orders. Speaking clock: 180
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STAYING STREET-WISE
Left luggage
In Budapest left luggage counters and coin-
operated lockers are to be found at the rail
stations. There are two non-stop left luggage
counters at both the Eastern (Keleti) and the
Southern (Déli) Railway Stations, while the Western
(Nyugati) Railway Station has a left luggage
counter open from 5 am-midnight, and lockers
available 24 hours a day.
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CITY
transport
TRANSPORT IN THE CAPITAL
TAXIS
Budapest taxis have yellow number plates and a taxi and then calling them because a taxi ordered by phone
sign in yellow. (Any vehicle without these features is is cheaper than one called on the street.
operating illegally.) The total charge that has to be Budataxi: 233-3333, Budapest Taxi: 433-3333,
paid by the passenger is made up of three separate Central Hotel Taxi: 322-3344, Citytaxi: 211-1111,
parts: the basic charge which is irrespective of how far Expo Taxi: 205-5555, Fôtaxi: 222-2222, Rádiótaxi:
the journey is (maximum HUF 300 during the day, 377-7777, Taxi 2000: 200-0000, Tele 5: 355-5555,
maximum HUF 420 at night), a per kilometre charge 6x6 taxi: 266-6666.
which depends on how many kilometres are covered All cars must have a taximeter installed, and
during the journey (maximum HUF 240 per kilometre these also print out a receipt. Taxi drivers are
during the day, maximum HUF 336 at night), and the required to give an invoice on request.
waiting charge. The larger taxi companies work with Tipping: in general 10% of the fare is acceptable,
rates far lower than the maximum charges listed above. but this naturally depends on how satisfied the
It is well worth noting down their telephone numbers, passenger is with the service.
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Parking
The capital is sectioned into several parking zones,
and different parking fees are charged according to Rent-a-car
the zone (between HUF 120 and 400 per hour). A selection of the larger car rental companies:
Parking must be paid for between the hours of 8 am- Americana, Avis, Budget, Hertz-Mercure, LRI Airport
6 pm Mon. to Fri., and 8 am-noon on Sat. (Parking is Rent-a-car.
free on Sun.) On parking, a ticket must be purchased In general, all companies require that the person
from the nearest ticket machine for the entire period renting a vehicle is at least 21 years old, has had at
the car is to be left. This ticket should be displayed least one year’s driving experience, has a valid
behind the windscreen. Minimum parking time: 15 driving licence and passport.
minutes, beyond which the ticket machine gives a All the major rent-a-car companies have an office
ticket for the amount of time equivalent to the sum at the airport, and brochures on rent-a-car options
of money inserted. Maximum waiting time: 2-3 are available from hotel reception desks and
hours. For longer periods, it is recommended that Tourinform offices.
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M U S E U M S , Churches
Most museums are closed on Monday. Budapest History Museum – B3
Admission charges show the lowest and highest Castle Museum 2 ●
rates. There may be several variations between I., Szent György tér 2 ≥ 225-7815 ó 10 am–6 pm
these two extremes, from student tickets to group (10 am–4 pm between 1 November and 28
rates. Prices valid to the end of 2004; admission February), closed Tue. —
charges are likely to increase in 2005. Collection of archaeological finds in Budapest.
— Budapest Card holders can visit over 60 Budapest in the Middle Ages: development of
museums free of charge or at a discounted rate. settlements from the Roman age to the 13th
century. The medieval Buda royal palace: collection
Aquincum Museum and Ruins [2] 1 ● E1 of original objects, seals, glassware, weapons,
III., Szentendrei út 139 ≥ 250-1650 tombstones. Gothic sculpture from the royal palace.
ó Tue–Sun: 9 am–5 pm, (Closed between 1 Nov. Budapest in modern times: historical moments in
and 14 April) — the life of a metropolis.
è Castle bus % HUF 250–800
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are important Japanese medieval art items and Cologne art collector couple Irene and Peter
Chinese bronzes and porcelain-ware. Ludwig. A visit provides an overview of the past 50
1 Bajza utca ç 4 ë 70, 78 % 150–300 HUF years of universal art, and contemporary Hungarian
art from the last 10 years.
Museum of Applied Art [3] 5 C4 ● è Castle bus % HUF 300–600
IX., Üllôi út 33–37 ≥ 456-5100
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — Transport Museum 9 ● D2
The beautiful Art Nouveau building XIV., Városligeti körút 11 ≥ 273-3840
(with Zsolnay ceramics on the roof) ó Tue–Fri: 10 am–5 pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–6 pm
designed by Ödön Lechner and Gyula (closes one hour earlier from October to May) —
Pártos is one of the most attractive One of Europe’s oldest transport history
sights in the capital. Major collections and collections. Its model railway material is world
art objects: Oriental rug collection, wall famous. Permanent exhibitions over 8,000 square
hangings, Esterházy treasury, 17th century metres include: 100 years and today, 100 years of
aristocratic costumes, Art Nouveau glassware, Italian Hungarian motoring, A century of Hungarian state
majolica, Zsolnay ceramics, French furniture, shipping, History of Motoring, History of steam
Augsburg Baroque goldsmith’s work. locomotion, History of urban transport.
3 Ferenc krt « 4, 6 % Permanent exhibition: « 1 ë 70, 72, 74 % free
free, temporary exhibition: HUF 300–600
Hungarian National Gallery [7] 10 ● B3
Kassák Lajos Memorial Museum 6 ● B1 I., Dísz tér 17 ≥ 375-8584
III., Fô tér 1 ≥ 368-7021 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — ó Tue–Sun.: 10 am–6 pm —
Exhibition in the former Zichy Mansion on the art of The collection of 10,000 art objects sited in wings
Lajos Kassák, leading artist of Hungarian avant-garde, B, C and D of Buda Castle Palace covers the period
poetry, painting and literary editor. The museum’s from the foundation of the state to the present day.
new permanent exhibition: 20th century Hungarian Permanent exhibitions: Medieval and Renaissance
art, from the legacies of Hungarian authors. lapidarium, Gothic wood carvings and tableaux,
ç 6, 86 « 1 « Árpád híd % HUF 100–150 Late Gothic winged altars, Renaissance and Baroque
art, Habsburg palatine crypt, 19th century painting
Kiscell Museum 7 ● A1 (Gyula Benczúr, Mihály Munkácsy, Viktor Madarász,
III., Kiscelli utca 108 ≥ 388-7817 Pál Szinyei Merse) and sculpture (István Ferenczy,
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–4 pm — Miklós Izsó), 20th century painting (József Rippl-
The museum building was constructed for the Rónai, Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka, Béla Czóbel) and
Trinitarian order in the 18th century, while it was later sculpture (Béni Ferenczy, Ferenc Medgyessy).
transformed into a Baroque mansion and even served è Castle bus % Permanent exhibition: free,
as a hospital. Today it is one of the museums of temporary exhibition: HUF 300–600
Budapest in perhaps the most picturesque of locations,
surrounded by woods at the foot of the Óbuda Hills. Its Hungarian National Museum 11 ● C3
exhibitions embrace two major areas of collections from VIII., Múzeum körút 14–16 ≥ 338-2122 ó Tue–Sun: 10
the Budapest History Museum: modern urban history, am–6 pm (10 am–5 pm from November to May) —
and the fine art collection of the Municipal Gallery. The museum (founded in 1802) was based on the
« 17 ç 60, 165 % HUF 200–600 numismatic, book and document collections of
Count Ferenc Széchényi, and the number of art
objects now exceeds one million. The huge national
collection has occupied its present site, a neo-
Classical building designed by Mihály Pollack, since
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[8]
CHURCHES,
ECCLESIASTICAL COLLECTIONS
Inner City Franciscan Church B3
V., Ferenciek tere
Open to visitors every day
In the 13th century a monastery and church stood (2)
on the site of the present-day church, while its
current decorative Baroque form was given in the The glorious building in Byzantine-Moorish style is
18th century. The frescoes speak of the talent of Europe’s largest synagogue. It was built by Viennese
Károly Lotz and Vilmos Tardos Krenner. The architect Ludwig Förster in the middle of the 19th
Baroque main altar and the statues decorating the century. One of Budapest’s most imposing historical
altar are particularly attractive. monuments, it is faced in white and red brick, with
3 Ferenciek tere a wealth of ceramic decorative elements and two
onion-dome towers. The museum has an
Inner City Parish Church B3 unequalled collection of Jewish-related items from
V., Március 15. tér 2 the Roman period to the 20th century.
≥ 318-3108
Open to visitors every day during church services Lutheran Church B3
3 Ferenciek tere « 2 V., Deák tér, ≥ 483-2150 ó daily 8 am–6 pm
The oldest church in Pest, built in the 12th century in National Lutheran Museum:
Romanesque style on the site of the grave of martyr Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm
Bishop Gellért. Nothing remains of the original ç 4, 9 « 47, 49 1 2 3 Deák tér
church; over the centuries it took on Gothic In line with the Puritanism of Protestant churches
features, and during the 17th century it was used by
the Turks as a mosque. Following a fire in 1723 it
was rebuilt in Baroque style, but the interior has
neo-Classical features too. Main sights: Gothic
chapel, neo-Gothic carved pulpit, 15th century
Italian frescoes and 20th century main altar.
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Serbian Church B4
V., Szerb utca 2–4 Open to visitors every day
3 Kálvin tér
Built by Serbian settlers in Baroque style in 1698. Its
interior is patterned on the plan of Greek Catholic
Matthias Church A3 churches: a wooden railing separates the women’s
I., Szentháromság tér ≥ 355-3657 church from the church for men built one step
ó daily 6 am-8 pm, ecclesiastical history exhibition, lower down. Pictures in the iconostasis (1850) show
daily: 9.30 am–5.30 pm — Italian Renaissance influences.
è Castle bus
% HUF 270–550
Budapest’s most attractive and most famous
Catholic church, which due to its unique siting
largely defines the view of the Castle quarter as seen
from the Pest side.
The royal cathedral, the Church of Our Lady, was
built in several stages between the 13th and 15th
centuries. Today’s neo-Gothic form was given by
major reconstruction work directed by Frigyes
Schulek in 1896. Frescoes and stained glass
windows in the church were made by some of the
age’s finest artists (Károly Lotz, Mihály Zichy,
Bertalan Székely).
The marvellous collection of the church includes the
lapidarium, reliquary, coronation relics and the
treasury with goldsmith masterpieces and church
textiles.
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CULTURAL avenue
Welcome to Europe’s most diverse ●
17
Cultural Avenue!
You are invited to a remarkable
walking tour in Budapest.
No fewer than 18 museums, a host
of theatres running different shows,
the State Opera House, Basilica,
Synagogue, Funfair and Zoo are located
along Budapest’s Cultural Avenue. Select
from whatever interests you most!
The Cultural Avenue runs right through
the centre of Budapest between the
World Heritage Buda Castle district and
City Park. Concentrated along this axis are
most of the capital’s prominent sights,
cultural
insti-
tutions,
cafés,
theatres and
confectioneries,
not to speak of the
entertainment
quarter in City Park.
People of all ages will
find something to enjoy on
the Cultural Avenue.
Discover another – unique –
side to Budapest!
●
26
●
12
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LEGEND
(6)
SIGHTS, sightseeing
SIGHTSEEING PROGRAMMES is packed with museums, for instance the Castle
Leaflets published by travel agencies specializing in Museum, Museum of Military History, Ludwig
city sightseeing tours around Budapest are available Museum displaying contemporary art, and the
from hotel reception desks and information offices. Hungarian National Gallery. The view from the
Visitors have a choice of sightseeing by bus, boat or Royal Palace across the Danube is breathtaking.
on foot. In addition to the traditional 12-16- Despite being rebuilt in neo-Gothic style, Matthias
language bus sightseeing tours the following special Church has managed to preserve its interior layout
programmes can also be recommended: trips first shaped 700 years ago. Once the church where
around Parliament, the Opera House and royalty was crowned, today its excellent acoustics
Ethnographical Museum, a walk in the Buda Castle, make it an ideal venue for organ concerts. Its
historical Pest, Jewish memories in Budapest, collection of ecclesiastical vestments is famous, and
Budapest by night, and the Red Star tour (features there is also a replica of the Hungarian Holy Crown
from communist times). preserved in the treasury. The pale masonry of
Boat sightseeing trips titled “Danube Bella” and Fishermen’s Bastion serves as a fine backdrop to
“Danube Legend” are organized by Legenda Kft. Matthias Church. Close by is the Hilton Hotel,
(≥ 266-4190).
Further information on city sightseeing
programmes is available on the web page of the
Tourism Office of Budapest (www.budapestinfo.hu).
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of litres of the very finest sparkling wines and select King Béla IV built a castle here after the Tartar
reds and whites lie maturing in the cavernous cellar invasion, and he chose this spot as the seat of royal
system hereabouts. A tour of the cellars combined rule. The Castle quarter on Castle Hill stands 180 m
with wine tasting takes at least half a day. above sea level. It is around 1.5 km long and in
A trip out to the Statue Park will prove an places it is 500 metres wide. It boasts three
unforgettable experience. Gigantic statues and churches, six museums, many historical buildings,
memorials erected during Communist times and monuments, streets and squares, a theatre, four
collected from all parts of the country (although hotels, numerous atmospheric restaurants, cafés,
largely from around the squares and streets of the galleries and gift shops. Breathtaking panoramas
capital) after the change of regime have been open from the Fishermen’s Bastion and the
brought together to make a stunning collection promenade in front of the National Gallery.
probably unique in the world.
Budapest is a spa city. Travellers were writing Royal Palace B3
about its remarkable medicinal waters in the 1500s. I. district Castle quarter – è Castle bus, Funicular
One of the Turkish baths built around that time is One of the symbols of the nation, the palace has
the Rudas, and it still employs some of the original witnessed wars and occupation from the 13th to the
fittings today. Gellért Spa is the most elegant in 20th century. The Turks occupied it, as did the
(7)
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Habsburgs, it was destroyed three times and then holding the Hungarian Holy Crown and apostolic
rebuilt, each time in the architectural style of the double cross. Quarter-circular colonnades extend to
age. Today’s neo-Classical style was taken on after both left and right of the column. Between the
the Second World War. The building hosts several pillars of the colonnade are figures of the ‘greats’
distinguished institutions: the Hungarian National from Hungarian history, while the butt piers are
Gallery, Budapest History Museum, National embellished with emblematic sculptural ensembles
Széchényi Library and the Ludwig Museum. (work, welfare, knowledge, honour and peace). The
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is positioned in front
Fishermen’s Bastion A3 of the monument. The magnificent buildings of the
I., Szentháromság tér – è Castle bus Palace of Arts and the Museum of Fine Arts to the
A relatively youthful structure next to Matthias right and left of the monument enhance the fine
Church. Building started in 1895 on the designs of architectural entity of Heroes’ Square.
Frigyes Schulek. It was sited on the place of the
medieval fish market and the walls protected by the Parliament B2
guild of fishermen, whence the name. The neo- V., Kossuth Lajos tér ≥ 317-9800 – Visits by guided
Romanesque bastion has only ever had a decorative tour only. – 2 Kossuth tér ç 15 « 2 ë 70, 78
role: it is a popular place to look out over Pest. The largest building in the country, the permanent
site of the national assembly, Parliament sits on the
Liberty Statue B4 Danube embankment with its entrance looking out
XI., Gellérthegy – ç 27, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 over Kossuth Square. The neo-Gothic building is the
The 14-m-high statue, the work of work of architect Imre Steindl, and was constructed
outstanding architect Zsigmond between 1884–1902. It has 691 rooms, is 268 m
Kisfaludy Strobl, was raised in 1947 in long and its cupola rises 96 m into the air. The
memory of the country’s liberation. And staircase is embellished with fine frescoes by Károly
even though the post-war period also Lotz and sculptures by György Kiss. The painting
marked the start of Soviet rule, the statue The Conquest by Mihály Munkácsy, the greatest
on Gellért Hill was not removed even after Hungarian painter, hangs in the congress chamber.
the change of regime since it had become Since 2000 the general public has been able to view
an indelible part of the cityscape. There are the Hungarian coronation regalia here: St. Stephen’s
two other sculptures at the foot of the Crown, the sceptre, orb and Renaissance sword.
female figure holding aloft the palm of
victory: one is an allegory of progress, the other the Hungarian Academy of Sciences B3
fight against evil. V., Roosevelt tér 9 – « 2 ç 16
The oldest and most significant building on
Hungarian State Geological Institute D2 Roosevelt Square. Its perfect neo-Renaissance design
XIV., Stefánia út 14 – 2 Stadionok ç 7 came from the studio of Berlin architect Stüler, and
One of the capital’s finest Art Nouveau buildings. It it was built between 1862–64. The grand gala hall
was designed by Ödön Lechner and built in 1899. decorated with pictures by Károly Lotz is also used
Its light blue ceramic roof and blue Zsolnay ceramic for staging concerts. There are lecture and session
decoration harmonize with the yellow-brown rooms, and a valuable scientific library. Allegorical
façade. Three figures can be observed on the sculptures in the imposing foyer and on the façade
middle roof crest holding a globe. There is a rock are the work of Miklós Izsó and Emil Wolf.
and mineral exhibition in the Institute.
Gresham Palace B3
Heroes’ Square C2 V., Roosevelt tér 5–6 – « 2 ç 4, 16, 105
XIV, City Park – 1 Hôsök tere ç 4 ë 79 This Art Nouveau building was commissioned by
The most spectacular square in the capital, sited at the Gresham Assurance Company, London, and
the entrance to City Park. Anyone coming up built in 1907 on the basis of designs by the brothers
Andrássy Boulevard sees from afar the 36-m-high József and László Vágó and Zsigmond Quittner. The
column in the centre of the Millennium memorial, most modern luxury apartments and offices of the
on top of which is a statue of the Archangel Gabriel day were established in the building. The Palace
features several statues, one of which (at the top of
the facade) is a bust of Sir Thomas Gresham,
founder of the London stock exchange. The Four
Seasons, the capital’s most exclusive luxury hotel,
opened here in 2004.
Central Market B4
IX., Fôvám krt. 1–3 – ç 15 « 2, 47, 49
The largest market in the capital, and the most
32 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 33
Elizabeth Bridge B3
ç 5, 7, 7, 8, 78, 86, 173, « 2, 18, 19, 41, 118
The statue of Bishop Gellért, who died a martyr in In the year of its
the 11th century, stands opposite Elizabeth Bridge construction (1903)
on the south side of Gellért Hill. According to it was the world’s
legend this is the spot from where pagans pushed longest suspension
the missionary bishop, sealed in a barrel, down into bridge, a record it
the Danube. The striking statue is enhanced by the held until 1926. The
semicircular colonnade behind and the natural bridge was named
spring which rises to the surface at this point, and after the wife of
which turns into a waterfall below the statue. Emperor Franz Joseph, Hungary’s beloved Queen
Elizabeth. German troops blew up the original
Westend City Center B2 bridge in 1945. The new bridge was designed by
XIII., Váci út – « 4, 6 3 Nyugati pu. ç 6, 26, 91 Pál Sávoly and built in 1964.
At the end of 1999 the Western Railway Station,
unique in Europe, designed by Gustave Eiffel and Liberty Bridge B4
ranked as one of the most outstanding historical « 2, 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 ç 7, 7/A, 15, 86
monuments of the capital, saw a new “neighbour” Originally called Franz Joseph Bridge, it was
move in next door: the stunning modern complex constructed in 1899, and following the destruction
called the Westend City Center. The complex of all the Budapest bridges in 1945 this was the first
(which has had a decisive impact on shaping the one to be rebuilt (1946) since it had suffered the
cityscape) has a 14-screen cinema, offices and least damage. During rebuilding all its decorative
60,000 square metre shopping centre (with motifs were retained: the mythical Turul birds, royal
waterfall in the vestibule). The 200-room Hilton coat of arms etc.
Budapest Westend, the latest Budapest hotel in the
Hilton chain, is integrated in the mega-complex on Chain Bridge B3
a site looking onto Váci Road. ç 4, 16, 86, 105 « 2, 19, 41
The capital’s first bridge, a historical monument, has
MOM Park A3 attracted many tourists
XII., Alkotás utca – ç 8, 139 « 61 to Budapest:
This large residential estate, shopping and photographs or film (8)
entertainment centre (inaugurated September of it illuminated at
2001) takes its name from the Hungarian Optical night, with the
Works (Magyar Optikai Mûvek – MOM) factory imposing
which once occupied the site. However, today the Buda Castle
only memory of the works is the former MOM rising in the background, make for a breathtaking
House of Culture built in socialist realism style on sight. Count István Széchenyi commissioned William
the plans of Károly Dávid Jnr. and which can be Tierney Clark to design the bridge and engineer
seen standing on the corner of Csörsz Street. The Adam Clark (no relation) to build it. Construction
park is the work of architects Antal Puhl and Tamás lasted from 1839–1849. The bridge did not escape
Noll, and is built according to the best traditions of the destruction of the Second World War, and it
classical modern Hungarian architecture. was rebuilt in 1949, on its 100th anniversary.
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 34
[1]
ANTIQUES STREET the one her family had when she was young. The
PACKED WITH TREASURES association sparked memories of bygone days, which
Budapest’s street of galleries first began to coalesce just finally grew into a novel and then a popular stage play.
off Margaret Bridge around 10 years ago. A stroll Among the 21 shops and galleries on Falk Miksa
down just two blocks of Falk Miksa Street reveals more Street, some specialize in certain areas and some sell
than 20 shops and galleries stuffed with bric-a-brac, a kaleidoscope of antiques. Some are just 20 square
curios and objets d’art. (As an interesting aside, metres of shop floor, others are three-storey
politician and publicist Miksa Falk has gone down in emporiums. Most prop their doors open to entice in
history books as the person who taught Queen the curious, and many hold auctions of museum-
Elizabeth, wife of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph, to quality pictures, sculptures and other outstanding
speak Hungarian.) The items on display (and the art objects. Among the bigger companies there are
prices) are so tempting that not many have a couple who specialize in the works of a chosen
managed to walk from one end of the street to artist or stage temporary exhibitions of the finest
the other without at least seriously considering paintings by a particular school, thereby
making an “investment”. Lace-like delicate spreading the word and bringing to the
porcelain, silken carpets, carved or inlaid attention of the general public the oeuvre of
furniture, all are handcrafted masterworks. In artists who have sunken into obscurity. For
fact, the choice can sometimes be a bit example, the Kieselbach Gallery gives a
overwhelming. It is as though each piece comprehensive overview of modern Hungarian
has its own story to tell and is just waiting painting from 1919 to 1964.
to be discovered. One may be able to The street is often busy (and all the more so
conjure up in the mind images of the artists before the major holidays) with shoppers looking for
who created the old crochet-work curtains something really special for a loved one: perhaps an
and filigree-lace tablecloths, or even the Art Nouveau brooch or a cast iron wall-mounted
superbly worked wardrobes and tables. But sink (which, by the way, today has a new function as
who was the little girl who played with the delightfully a plant-holder). This is truly the place for a “made-to-
costumed doll over a century ago? How many sat in measure” gift! However, even slow days in Falk Miksa
this turn-of-the-century, squat swivel barber’s chair Street are interesting. Collectors pop their heads around
upholstered in leather. Who was the beauty captured the doors to check out the ever changing displays,
so vividly by this deft-handed painter? Where could perhaps in the hope of finding that object that will
this charming landscape be that calls to us so complete a missing gap in the collection, before their
evocatively? What convoluted route did this silver eye is taken by something else... Then there are others
candlestick take finally to end up in this shop? Then who just enjoy trawling through the shops, learning
again, it’s always pleasurable to mull over where such about the styles and periods, getting simple pleasure
and such a piece would go in the house. A famous from handling old peasant faience kitchenware, ancient
Hungarian writer once glimpsed a sugar bowl in one colanders, the thick green glass of soda siphons,
of the shops and bought it because it was the same as pharmacy jars, Murano chandeliers, Pakistani or Afghan
34 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 35
hand-knotted wool or silk rugs, glorious Herend than a few thousand forints at most, there are some
porcelain and old horological timepieces, all the valuable rarities out there too. However, sorting the
creations of skilled hands from bygone days. 24-carat gold from fool’s gold requires not only a
good eye but some considerable luck too. A trip to
TREASURE, TRASH AND TRINKETS the flea market will almost certainly mean you’ll
AT ECSERI FLEA MARKET come across a painting, piece of porcelain or some
other antique which would look really good at
The largest second-hand market in Budapest, the flea home and be a pleasurable souvenir of Budapest.
market on Nagykôrösi Road, may be located some But don’t forget to bargain, because this is all part
distance from the centre of town and yet most tourists of the game! Tip: before getting down to
find the journey out there well worth the time. Known negotiations, decide the maximum price you’ll pay
by the locals simply as the “Ecseri”, the bustling and stick to it. You should never forget that most
market is an experience not only for those with a fixed dealers make their living selling to tourists...
aim but also for those who just want to do some “stall The Ecseri is a treasure trove of objects for serious
shopping”. After all, it is great fun to browse collectors and browsers alike because it is a gathering
through so many bits and pieces in the hope point for items from all over the Carpathian Basin
of turning up the occasional gem: including sub-Carpathia, Transylvania,
from trinkets to Art Nouveau Upper Hungary and the Vajdaság.
furniture, from black and white Moving further afield, some traders
greetings card to a silver fob travel all the way from Belgium
watch, from an early camera to and France, but mixed among
paintings of all schools and the stalls are Africans too selling
qualities, the Ecseri has it all. And antique silver. But Ecseri is not
more! Antiques, violins, gramophones, only about antiques because there
books, porcelain, old fashioned irons, are also stallholders selling leather
rugs and carpets, old soda siphons, pens, jackets and jeans at prices that put
dinner services, medals, militaria, lace... the downtown shops to shame. So whether
This is a cavalcade of old and new, the you come to buy or to browse, you’ll not be
superb and the showy, the glorious and the kitsch. Old disappointed by what you find here. And if you find
bronze pestles and mortars, bottles with marble stoppers, you really don’t need anything today, don’t leave
lead soldiers and military honours speak of bygone ages. empty handed! They do say the local lángos (fried
No wonder then that the visitor sometimes feels as dough smothered in sour cream, cheese and other
though time has stood still for a few decades. toppings) is the best in town.
The ramshackle market with absolutely no “extras” is
a world away from the modern, glitzy, air-conditioned „Ecseri” Flea Market
shopping malls of today. The Ecseri takes shopping to a 1194 Budapest, Nagykôrösi út 156 ≥ 282-9563
different level where passion is part of the story. Sellers ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–4 pm, Sat: 8 am–3 pm
are often eager to strike up a conversation with Access: tram 4 or 6 from Blaha Lujza Square to
potential buyers, extolling – at length – the virtues of Boráros Square, and then bus 54 to the market
their wares and spicing up bargaining with raised voice
and argument. The visitor can also claim that this is not Budapest Antique Market [1]
merely a shopping expedition but culture too. After all, Corner of Dévai utca and Kassák Lajos utca in
the variety of ancient wooden troughs, copper Budapest’s XIII district (close to the Western
watering cans and 100-year-old furniture on display can (Nyugati) Railway Station and Lehel Market)
be likened to a trip around an open-air ethnographical ó every day of the week from morning to late
museum! Gramophones, porcelain dolls and teddy evening
bears are jammed in between chests of drawers, “A Town within the Town – Past in the Present!” The
armchairs and oil paintings. Stands packed cheek by Budapest Antique Market preserves not only the
jowl with each other and overflowing with knick-knacks past of Hungary but that of Central Europe too. It
of every conceivable kind give one the sense of represents a remarkable hub for antiques in the
wandering an oriental bazaar. capital, offering a secure, friendly and pleasant
Every one of the items on sale has its own story. environment where buyers can browse the stalls for
And perhaps this very fact gives the market its the antique piece of their dreams. Around 90 shops
remarkable and sometimes mystical air. There is and 40 stands are located on the two floors of the
plenty of jewellery of the sort that grandmother recently renovated, 4000-square-metre market.
probably wore for large family get-togethers, dinner It permits specialist collectors to establish an accurate
services into which the Sunday soup was ladled year picture of the market for antiques in Hungary – styles,
after year, and violins with strings worn thin by quality, prices etc. – in one place, while tourists can also
generations of youthful Menuhin wannabes. enjoy the programmes, exhibitions and auctions
Although most items won’t set you back more regularly organized at the Budapest Antique Market.
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 36
[2]
36 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 37
Millenary Park A2
II., Lövôház utca 39 ≥ 438-5312 BUDAPEST EVENTS – 2005
« 4, 6 % Charges vary (Preliminary programme)
Comedy Theatre B2
XIII., Szent István körút 14 ≥ 329-2340
« 4, 6 ç 6, 26, 91 % HUF 300–2400
Merlin Theatre B3
V., Gerlóczy utca 4 10–23 July ‘Budafest’ – Summer Symphonic
≥ 317-9338 — Concerts at the Basilica
« 47, 49 1 2 3 Deák tér 29–31 July Formula–1 Hungarian Grand Prix
% HUF 600–1800 3–19 August 14th ‘Budafest’ Opera and Ballet Festival
10–17 August Sziget (Island) Festival
Trafó House of C4 18–21 August Crafts Festival
Contemporary end of August Budapest Parade
Arts 19–21 August Danube Embankment Festivities
IX., Liliom utca 41 end of August –
≥ 456-2051 early September Jewish Summer Cultural Festival
« 4, 6 3 Ferenc körút 4 September 19th Nike Budapest International
% HUF 500–2000 Half-marathon
4–14 September 14th Budapest International Wine and
Buda Vigadó B3 Sparkling Wine Festival
I., Corvin tér 8 ≥ 201-3766 8–11 September Wine exhibition and fair in Buda Castle
« 19, 41 2 Batthány tér 6 Sept.–2 Oct. Men’s and women’s Graeco-Roman
% Charges vary and Free-Style Wrestling World
Championship
TICKET ORDER: 2 October 20th Kaiser’s-Plus Budapest International
Marathon and Race Festival
Ticket Express 14–23 October Budapest Autumn Festival
V., Andrássy út 18 19–23 October Vienna–Budapest Supermarathon
ó Mon–Thu: 9.30 am–6.30 pm 26 Nov.–24 Dec.
V., Deák Ferenc utca 19 (Book and music store) Budapest Christmas Fair in
ó Mon–Sat: 10 am–7 pm Vörösmarty Square
II., Lövôház utca 2–6 (Mammut 1 Shopping Centre)
ó Mon–Thu: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 10 am–1 pm
Central customer service: 312-0000
Phone ticketing: (06-30)30-30-999 30 December Seasonal concert by the 100-member
Internet booking: Gypsy Orchestra
www.tex.hu, 30–31 December New Year’s Eve – in the main squares
www.eventim.hu, of the capital
www.ticketexpress.hu, 31 December European New Year’s Eve – Gala and
www.musicmix.hu ball in the Opera House
Information: jegy@tex.hu Further information: www.budapestinfo.hu
www.budapestinfo.hu 37
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 38
[2]
[3]
[1]
[4]
BEYOND Budapest
JUST OUTSIDE BUDAPEST A further 20 km north and the traveller comes to
Whatever point of the compass we choose to follow, Esztergom [1], former royal town. Each year this
there is always something of interest to discover more than 1000-year-old settlement (founded 973)
beyond the border of Budapest. For instance, travel – the first capital of the country, site for the baptism
north and the nearest places of note are Szentendre into the Christian Church of our first king, where
(see separate article), Visegrád and Esztergom. the pagan rebel Koppány was cruelly executed and
Visegrád [2] is a synthesis of the past, present and his quartered remains hung on the city walls, seat of
future. At one time the border of the Roman Empire, kings and archbishops for centuries – attracts
the limes, ran past the settlement; you can still see the around 1 million visitors. Today the castle is a
ruins of Roman watchtowers along the Danube. The first museum, and its reconstructed grand hall the
king of Hungary, St. Stephen, established a stewardship location for scientific conferences and conventions.
here and raised the archdeacon’s church, the The most decorative part of the castle is the
foundations of which still stand on Castle Hill. The view frescoed Royal Chapel. Hungary’s largest church,
from here is superb, encompassing the incomparable the Basilica, stands atop Castle Hill. Its red marble
Danube Bend. Not far away is the imposing citadel and chapel, built on the commission of Archbishop of
the huge keep which takes its name, Solomon’s Tower, Esztergom Tamás Bakócz, is ranked as one of the
from the myth that once King Solomon was held finest works of art to have survived in Hungary from
captive here. It is a fact however that during the Middle the Renaissance. The Cathedral Treasury with its
Ages the royal crown was kept under lock and key here. remarkable collection of ecclesiastical masterworks
Today the tower is a museum with a display of always attracts crowds. There is a statue of St.
archaeological treasures. The towering Royal Palace Stephen not far away, and the recently rebuilt Mária
originally raised in Gothic style and later, during the Valéria Bridge also contributes to the delightful view
reign of King Matthias, rebuilt in Renaissance style has a of the surroundings. The Christian Museum in the
fountain which ran not with water but with wine during Primate’s Palace has a valuable collection of
VIP meetings. This too is a museum, one of the main medieval Italian paintings, gobelins, faience and
features of which is a reconstruction (supported by the porcelains.
British) of the masterpiece red marble Hercules fountain. Let’s return to Budapest and then set off in a
Exhibitions have been set up in some of the halls of the south-westerly direction. We are in for a trip back in
restored palace; period replica furniture can be seen in time... several thousand years! Visitors to
the one-time prince’s suite. The palace gardens have Százhalombatta come upon Iron Age relics of the
been replanted with flora identified from excavated so-called Hallstadt culture. More than 100 tumuli
fountains. Each summer a knight’s tournament, strong preserve the remains of Iron Age dwellers who lived
man competition and medieval crafts fair are organized hereabouts. Huge pyres were set ablaze on the
in Visegrád. Danube embankment in honour of those recently
38 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 39
[2] deceased, and their ashes were then hidden away in of spectacular sights and a fascinating artistic presence.
the mounds made to carefully planned designs. One Longobard cemeteries and Avar memorials are to be
such grave has survived in pristine condition, found here, and there is a particularly strong Serbian
allowing archaeologists to reconstruct accurately the culture all around, brought here by Serb communities
burial customs of yore; deep in the tumulus visitors fleeing a Turkish onslaught in the late 17th century.
can trace (aided by sound and light effects) the Most of the houses which once belonged to wealthy
course of a burial ceremony as performed 4000 years merchants are now museums, but the Greek Orthodox
ago. What’s more, it has been possible to reconstruct churches still function and visiting hours are fixed for
not only the burial ceremonies but the everyday life times between masses which dazzle the onlooker in all
of Iron Age society too: house reconstructions, their Baroque pomp, as does the Rococo iconostasis.
furnishings and clothing, and the very meals eaten in All the listed houses in the centre have found new
millennia past. The third Sunday in every month from functions: a restaurant famed throughout Hungary
May to September is given over to a Family Day operates from the attic of one, and in another the
when groups and individual visitors will find the visitor is served fine cakes and coffee specialities in a
archaeological park offering special family-oriented cosy café. There are gourmet delicacies for the body
programmes. and enchanting exhibitions for the mind. In fact the
Martonvásár [5] lies close to the M7 motorway galleries, workshops, exhibition centres and museums
30 km from Budapest. This tiny [5] just come one after the other. Seven
settlement became famed or eight galleries deal with the
throughout Europe thanks to the marketing of art. If anyone becomes
[4] hospitality and love of music of particularly interested in any one of
the resident Brunswick family. the artists, a studio visit can be
Indeed, Ludwig van Beethoven arranged. An exhibition of works by
was a regular guest and music Lajos Vajda, Dezsô Korniss, Endre
teacher at the attractive Brunswick Bálint and Piroska Szántó is set up in
mansion built originally in Baroque the Hunyadi Street old merchant’s
and later rebuilt in neo-Gothic house, No. 1 Vastagh György Street
style. Today Martonvásár remains preserves ceramics by Margit Kovács
a centre for the Beethoven cult: a whose works have enjoyed
museum set up in the mansion international acclaim for many
preserves items related to the decades, while the art of Jenô
great composer, while each Barcsay is displayed in Dumtsa Jenô
summer outdoor concerts are Street. Not far from here, an unusual
staged in the delightful grounds. museum shows just how far a skilled
Finally, if we leave the capital heading northeast, artisan can extend the boundaries of his trade. The
after 30 km we arrive in the town of Gödöllô, Marzipan Museum displays how far the plasticity and
renowned for its association with Queen Elizabeth, wife colouring of this marvellous and delicious sweetmeat
of Franz Joseph, emperor of the Austro-Hungarian can – in the right hands – be moulded into just about
Monarchy. The restored Baroque palace, originally the any shape one could imagine. These works of art stay
Grassalkovich Mansion, was the favourite residence of locked up in the display cases, but many more can be
the queen, familiarly known by the Hungarians as sampled at the confectionery next door.
Sissy. This truly imposing palace lovingly restored to its It would be easy to spend a whole day strolling
original glory has a fascinating exhibition and regularly about the town and along the Danube embankment,
hosts cultural events and festivals. taking lunch and perhaps an afternoon coffee and
cake, and yet there is still another important place to
SZENTENDRE, TOWN see. Szentendre is home to the first (and still the
OF ARTISTS AND SKANZEN [4] largest) skanzen or open-air museum in Hungary.
This neat town with a decidedly Mediterranean feel to This park displays the continual development of
it lies barely 20 km from Budapest (suburban trains vernacular architecture from all the regions of
departing from Batthyány Square every 20 minutes Hungary in the form of original buildings typical of
reach it in 30-40 minutes), and it has gained a solid their area carefully dismantled and rebuilt in their
reputation as a popular tourist excursion spot. new home, the Szentendre skanzen. The rooms
Szentendre has preserved its 18–19th century compact come fully furnished with period furniture, linens and
and unified layout. Its picturesque setting on the beautiful needlework characteristic of the region in
Danube, its architecture and historical monuments all question, the kitchens display fireplaces and pots and
contributed to the formation over the years of colonies pans, the pantries have original containers for foods,
of painters, sculptors and artists who lived and still live sacks and wickerwork baskets, while the stables are
today in Szentendre. Indeed, the very air seems to full of all the essential equipment for animal
stimulate the creative juices! The town warmly husbandry. Museum experts revive the everyday life
welcomes the visitor, indulging them with its multitude and holidays of the old peasant way of living.
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[2]
[1] [3]
40 www.budapestinfo.hu
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[3] [4]
[1]
[2]
LEISURE
PARKS, HILLS, Tabán B3
NATURE PROTECTED AREAS The hilly area between Gellért Hill and Castle Hill is
steeped in history. Today its extensive park and a
Margaret Island [2] [3] B1-2 few old buildings bear witness to the life this one-
The historical monuments on this slender island time centre enjoyed. Celts and Romans settled here,
running between Árpád Bridge and Margaret Bridge and its thermal springs prompted the Turks to
date back to the 11th century. The capital’s most establish baths here (the Rudas and Rác thermal
beautiful park is on the island, and visitors strolling baths of today). From the 17th century Serb, Greek
around come across a variety of interesting structures and Roma refugees lived in its small streets. The
(the UNESCO-protected Water Tower, musical well, arcaded terraces of Castle Garden (Várkert) standing
Open-air Stage, Church of St. Michael) and ruins at the foot of Tabán and looking out onto the
several centuries old (nunnery where Margaret, Danube were designed by Miklós Ybl, foremost
daughter of King Béla IV, lived, and the remains of Hungarian architect of the 19th century. Today
two churches belonging to religious orders). And open-air festivals and concerts are regularly staged
there is still more: a strand, swimming pool, two in Tabán.
hotels and a variety of restaurants and buffets. – ç 26 ç 5, 78, 112 « 18, 19, 41, 118
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 43
Fine Arts, Palace of Arts, Millennium memorial, programmes projected on to the dome (diameter: 23
Vajdahunyad Castle) were erected for celebrations m) with pop or classical music accompaniment.
marking the thousandth anniversary of the Magyar « 1, 1/A ç 103 3 Népliget
Conquest. City Park offers entertainment of all kinds
and for all generations: Funfair, Zoo, Grand Circus, SPORT
museums, spa bath, boating lake and skating rink. Entertainment and health sports are becoming every
ç 4 1 Hôsök tere, Széchenyi fürdô ë 70, 72, 75, 78 more popular in Budapest. Dozens of joggers, young
and old, are to be seen in the capital’s parks (and
Buda Hills E1 primarily on Margaret Island) from morning to
(Széchenyi Hill, Sváb Hill, János Hill, Hármashatár Hill) evening. Besides the Hajós Alfréd National Sports
[4] A mecca for nature lovers and excursionists, the Swimming Pool, the most popular pool on Margaret
Buda Hills (400-500 m) lie to the northwest of the Island, there are more than 25 other strands,
city centre and offer visitors excellent air and swimming pools or medicinal baths in the capital. The
endless forests with well marked tourist trails. In city is networked by many cycle paths, and in winter
addition to walking and cycling, the most popular (between December and March) the City Park lake is
means of getting around for tourists include the transformed into Central Europe’s largest open-air
cogwheel railway (from Szilágyi Erzsébet Avenue to skating rink (in summer it functions as a boating lake).
Széchenyi Hill), the narrow-gauge railway which The Buda Hills are generally suitable for skiing and
(apart from the locomotive) is operated by children sledging between December and February.
(from Széchenyi Hill via János Hill to Hûvösvölgy), The following is a list of just a few of the near
and the chair-lift running up and down János Hill, countless fashionable sport offers around town.
which when the weather is fine offers a
breathtaking panorama of the city. BOWLING
2 Moszkva tér, and then Cogwheel railway or Mammut Bowling Club
Chair-lift II., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8300
ó Sun–Thur: 10 am–1 am, Mon, Fri–Sat: 10 am–3 am
Sas Hill nature protected area A4 % HUF 450–750
XI., Tájék utca 26 ≥ 319-6789 Strike Bowling Club
ó 15 March–15 June and 1 September–15 October: XI., Budafoki út 111–113 ≥ 206-2754
Sat–Sun: 10 am–4 pm ó Mon–Thur: 2 pm–1 am, Fri–Sat.: 2 pm–3 am
Visits with guide only! % HUF 450–750
This 266-m-high dolomite rocky block set in the heart Westend Bowling Club
of the Buda side is home to a variety of rare and unique VI., Váci út 1–3 (Westend City Center) ≥ 238-7040
flora and fauna, and represents an unparalleled, nature ó Sun–Thur: 10 am–1 am, Fri–Sat: 10 am–3 am
protected formation in the centre of this metropolis of % HUF 400–700
2 million. Visitors are permitted to enter in spring and
autumn, and with luck may glimpse the yellow and FITNESS CLUBS
lilac flowers of the protected iris, the Hungarian Astoria Fitness Studio
meadow saxifrage, the Buda hare’s tail grass, the St. V., Károly körút 4 ≥ 317-0452
Stephen wild pink and the common horsetail. Among ó Mon–Fri: 6.30 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8.30 am–11 pm
the local fauna it is worth highlighting the Pál Kitaibel % HUF 900
Pannonia lizard, which despite its tiny feet moves in Hotel Stadion (Danubius Premier)
snake-like fashion, and the “bull spider” (the only place XIV., Ifjúság útja 1–3 ≥ 889-5282
in the world this arachnid can be found!) which is ó 6.30 am–11 pm % HUF 1900–2900
instantly recognizable with its four black spots on a red Moveland-Mammut 2 Shopping Center
abdomen. It is often to be seen basking in the warmth II., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8544/45/46
of the sun on bare rocks. ó Mon–Fri: 6.45 am–10.45 pm,
ç 8, 8A Sat–Sun: 8 am–7.45 pm % HUF 2000
Park Hotel Flamenco
Népliget D4 XI., Tas vezér utca 7 ≥ 889-5761ó Mon–Thur: 7 am–12
The largest park on the Pest side, founded in the pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–9 pm % HUF 2400–4300
1860s. Located to the southeast of the city centre,
the 5-km-long, 112-hectare park filled with trees,
flowers and grass is a pleasant place to stroll. Statues
and memorials line the paths. The ‘Centenarium’
park-established to mark the 100th anniversary of the
unification of Pest and Buda-forms a part of Népliget.
The Planetarium, an establishment of national
significance, is also sited here. Visitors can learn more
about the wonders of astronomy, or enjoy laser
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 44
GO-CART RIDING
Budaring Go-Cart Petneházy Horse-Riding School
XI., Budaörsi út (at the Floracoop flower market) II., Feketefej utca 2 ≥ 397-5048
≥ (06-30)311-9856 ó Fri–Sun: 9 am–4 pm % Charges vary
ó 11 am–11 pm % HUF 1500–2000 Favorit Riding Club
Eurocenter Go-Cart XVI., Mókus utca 23 ≥ (06-30)966-9992
III., Bécsi út 154 ≥ (06-30)206-4206 ó Tue–Fri: 2–6 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–4.30 pm, closed
ó Mon–Fri: 2 pm–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 12 am–11 pm Mon. % Charges vary
% HUF 1500–1800
TENNIS
SKATEBOARD, ROLLER SKATING Mini Garros Tennis Club
Görzenál XIV., Csömöri út 21/A ≥ 363-6800
III., Árpád fejedelem útja 46 ≥ 250-4800 ó Daily, weekends too, from 7 am until dusk
ó March–November: daily 9 am–6 pm % HUF 2100–3200
Római Tennis Academy
III., Királyok útja 105 ≥ 240-8616
ó 9 am–10 pm % HUF 2200–3800
Szépvölgy Tennis Centre
III., Virág B. utca 39–41 ≥ 388-1591
ó 7 am–10 pm % HUF 4600–5300
Városmajor Tennis Academy
XII., Városmajor utca 63–69 ≥ 202-5337
ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–10 pm, Sat: 7 am–7 pm, Sun: 8
am–7 pm % HUF 2700–4400
CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMES
Children who want to play, get about and enjoy
themselves will find Budapest has plenty to offer.
SQUASH Budapest’s leisure opportunities – from the Funfair to
A & TSH puppet theatres – are broad and exciting, irrespective of
I., Pálya utca 9 ≥ 356-9530 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 whether it is raining or sunny, winter or summer, inside
pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–9 pm % HUF 2400–3500 or out. The following are just a few ideas from the great
Aktív Squash Club programmes available for kids:
XIV., Tábornok utca 7 ≥ 251-3322
ó daily: 7 am–11 pm % HUF 2900–3900 Funfair [4] C2
Aréna Fitness XIV., Állatkerti körút 14–16 ≥ 363-2660
XIII., Váci út 178 (Duna Plaza) ≥ 239-4356 ó Apr–Sept: 10 am–8 pm Oct–March: only Sat and
ó Mon–Fri: 6 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–10 pm Sun: 10 am–7 pm —
% HUF 2400–3200 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 ç 4 % free, Sat–Sun: HUF 300
Arnold Gym
III., Szépvölgyi út 15 ≥ 250-4259 Municipal Zoo and Botanical Garden [1] C2
ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 pm Sat–Sun: 9 am–10 pm XIV., Állatkerti körút 6–12
% HUF 1900–2900 ≥ 363-3797
City Squash & Fitness ó Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec: 9 am–4
II., Marcibányi tér 13 ≥ 325-0082 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–mid- pm, March, April, Sept, Oct: 9
night, Sat–Sun: 8 am–10 pm % HUF 2000–4000 am–5 pm, May–Aug:
Top Squash-Mammut Shopping Center Mon–Thur: 9 am–6 pm,
II., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8193 Fri–Sun: 9 am–7 pm —
ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–9 pm 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 ç 4
% HUF 2300–4500 % HUF 900–1300
44 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 45
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 46
SHOPPING
[1] [2]
Just as in any metropolis anywhere in the world so shops marketing the very finest quality Hungarian reds
too in Budapest there are thousands of temptations and whites. Famous Szamos marzipan is available
to get out and shop, although it’s not a bad idea to in Párizsi Street, and the confectionery’s ice cream is
know beforehand what is especially worth taking outstanding too. And since the number of shops that
home as a souvenir and which are the best quality can be squeezed onto the street level is finite,
Hungarian products. enterprising Hungarians have moved underground:
Our shopping expedition starts in József nádor three shopping centres have been created out of old
Square where a visit to the Herend shop is like cellars. One shop in Fehérhajó Street sells healing
stepping into an exhibition of the finest applied arts. minerals, and in the middle of Váci Street others trade
Herend porcelain is, quite rightly, one of the industries in antique furniture, porcelain and kid’s clothing. In
Hungary is most proud of. Over the years Herend the meantime don’t forget to direct your eyes
hand-painted vases, plates and dinner services have upwards occasionally: most of the buildings in the
won several gold medals at world expos. One pattern heart of town were raised in the late 1800s, among
is named after Queen Victoria because the now- them there are several outstanding examples.
famous butterfly design was first made for her. In a The Csók Gallery on the corner of Pesti Barnabás
similarly fashion, a Persian motif is named after Sissy, Street displays and retails works by modern
empress of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and a Hungarian artists, but if you are interested in
remarkable bird pattern is linked to the Rothschilds. antiques, you’ll find them here too. Kígyó (Snake)
Just a block away, on entering Vörösmarty Square Street is gradually turning into a street of porcelain:
we are faced with a choice: do we drop in to two shops selling the finest Hungarian porcelain face
Gerbeaud, the most distinguished café in the each other across the street. The speciality of the
capital, with its delicious teas, coffees and cakes, or Zsolnay porcelain factory is its eosin glaze, a
head to the other side of the square and the Luxus technique rarely employed in Europe. This iridescent
department store selling global brand name glaze with its golds, greens and (more uncommonly)
clothing as well as Hungarian gifts and perfumes? blues covers Zsolnay statues, plates and ash trays,
Whichever you choose, you won’t be disappointed! while dining sets are characterized by an attractive
ivory hue to the porcelain. The Herend shop sells
ALONG VÁCI STREET single pieces, sets and statues patterned on classics
Váci Street linking Vörösmarty Square with Fôvám created by the old factory established 176 years ago.
Square represents the main artery of the inner city. Replacement pieces can also be ordered.
A stroll down “Váci utca” takes one past jewellers, At Elizabeth Bridge an underpass takes us on to
perfumeries, brand name clothes shops from Marks the continuation of Váci Street. Passing the
and Spencer to Cottonfield, a C&A store, boutiques Downtown Auction House (Belvárosi Aukciósház),
and bijouteries. it’s fascinating to scan the regularly changing
But leave time for the foreign language bookshop collection of shopwindow “treasures” small and
selling translated works by several Hungarian authors. large. Visit the Folkart Centrum at Váci Street 58
Then again, don’t forget to slide off down one or two for just the right gift to remind you of your stay in
of the side streets: you’ll discover boutiques and wine Hungary.
46 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 47
SHOPPING MALLS
The plaza [2] opens up a different sort of entertainment
and shopping experience. Virtually everything can be
found in one place, the shops are open, enticing one to
wander around, try out the scents, feel the quality of
materials, try on clothes and so on. The most successful
malls tempt the buyer in with some special feature,
whether this be a waterfall Tropicarium, or Western-
style setup. One of the malls actually has a tethered
balloon on the roof, giving passengers an unforgettable
view of the city and surroundings. Plazas, generally
open throughout the weekend too, have become the
favoured haunt of the young. Over the past few years
malls have been springing up all over the capital, most
at major intersections and metro stations (Western
Railway Station, Váci Road, Könyves Kálmán Boulevard,
Bécsi Road, Margit Boulevard etc.).
▲
Folkart Centrum
V., Váci utca 58 ≥ 318-5840 ó 10 am–7 pm
www.folkartcentrum.hu
Hungary’s largest folk handicrafts shop selling a
huge range of authentic hand-made items,
embroidery, hand-woven fabrics, costumes,
pottery, porcelain, wood carvings, flasks,
traditional painted Easter eggs and other gifts
from every ethnographical region in Hungary.
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 48
RESTAURANTS
[1] [2]
[3]
48 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 49
Kispipa*** Vadrózsa****
VII., Akácfa utca 38 ≥ 342-2587 ó Monday–Saturday: II., Pentelei Molnár utca 15 ≥ 326-5817
midday–1 pm • Hungarian and international dishes ó midday–3 pm, 7 pm–midnight
Kogart Restaurant & Café*** Small Baroque villa offering a romantic dinner setting
VI., Andrássy út 112. ≥ 354-3830 ó 10 am–1 am Remete Rstaurant (Hotel Remete)
Elegant milieu, high-standard service. International III., Remetehegyi út 91. ≥ 250-3437 ¥ 368-4248
and dietary dishes, excellent Hungarian wine cellar Private functions, goulash party, barbeque
Mágnáskert ***
II., Csatárka út 58 ≥ 325-9967 ó midday–midnight CONFECTIONERIES
International cuisine Daubner Confectionery
Matthias Cellar**** II., Szépvölgyi út 50 ≥ 335-2253 ó 9 am–7 pm
V., Március 15. tér 7 ≥ 318-1693 ó 11 am–1 am Gerbeaud Confectionery [3]
Hungarian cuisine V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9000 ó 9 am–9 pm
Múzeum Café and Restaurant*** Hauer Confectionery
VIII., Múzeum körút 12 ≥ 267-0375 ó Mon–Sat: midday– VIII. Rákóczi út 47–49 ≥ 323-1476 ó 8 am–11 pm
midnight • Elegant milieu, Hungarian and international flavours Lukács Confectionery
Náncsi Néni Vendéglôje** VI., Andrássy út 70 ≥ 302-8747 ó weekdays: 9
II., Ördögárok utca 80 ≥ 397-2742 ó midday–11 pm am–8 pm, Saturday, Sunday: 10 am–8 pm
Family-style restaurant with a large garden Mûvész Café
Lion Well Restaurant – Gerbeaud House VI., Andrássy út 29 ≥ 352-1337 ó 9 am–midnight
V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9023 ó midday–3 pm, Ruszwurm
6–11 pm • Classically elegant, international cuisine I., Szentháromság tér 7 ≥ 375-5284 ó Monday–
Pest-Buda*** Friday: 8 am–7 pm, Saturday–Sunday: 8 am–8 pm
I., Fortuna utca 3 ≥ 212-5880 ó midday–11 pm Taverna-Zsolnay Café
Hungarian and international cuisine V., Váci utca 20 ≥ 485-3100 ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–10
Pilvax** pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–10 pm
V., Pilvax köz 1–3 ≥ 266-7660 ó midday–midnight Zsolnay Café
Delicious Hungarian dishes, historical wines VI., Teréz körút 43 (Radisson SAS Béke Hotel)
Premier Restaurant & Terrace** ≥ 889-3900 ó 10 am–9.30 pm
VI., Andrássy út 101 ≥ 342-1768 ó midday–11 pm
International cuisine
Régi Sípos Halászkert** [2]
III., Lajos utca 46 ≥ 368-6480 ó midday–midnight
Family-style inn, Hungarian fish dishes
Remiz***
II., Budakeszi út 8 ≥ 200-3843 ó 9 am–1 am
Close to the tram depot, family-style catering. Dishes cooked on lava
Rivalda***
I., Színház utca 5–9 ≥ 489-0236 ó 11.30 am–11.30 pm
Modern European, international cuisine
Robinson***
XIV., City Park Lake ≥ 422-0222 ó midday–4 pm,
6 pm–midnight • International, Mediterranean cuisine
Rosenstein***
VIII., Mosonyi utca 3 ≥ 313-3492 ó Mon–Sat midday–
11 pm • Home-made cooking, traditional Jewish dishes
Sörházpince – Gerbeaud House**
V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9022 ó midday–11 pm
Rustic furnishings • Snacks, grilled specialities
Spoon Café & Lounge***
V., in front of the Hotel InterContinental on the
embankment ≥ 411-0933 ó midday–midnight
A spoonful of pleasure on the elegant “ship restaurant”
Százéves (100-Year-Old)***
V., Pesti Barnabás utca 2 ≥ 318-3608 ó midday– midnight
• The oldest continually operating restaurant in town •
Traditional Hungarian cuisine to the very highest standards
Új Sipos Restaurant**
III., Fô tér 6 ≥ 388-8745 ó midday–11 pm
Hungarian, international flavours
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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 50
RESTAURANTS IN RÁDAY STREET AND LISZT FERENC SQUARE (please see the two maps)
For those looking for a quick lunch or a brief coffee ●
4 Buena Vista
and chat in between excursions or sightseeing, Liszt Ferenc tér 4–5
here are two recently redeveloped and “cool” ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–1 am, Sat–Sun:10 am–1 am
locations which come fully ● 5 Pesti Est Café
recommended: one is Liszt Ferenc Liszt Ferenc tér 5 ≥ 344-4381 ó 11 am–2 am
Square off Andrássy Avenue not ● 6 Birdland
far from Oktogon, the other Liszt Ferenc tér 7 ≥ 413-7983
is Ráday Street which ó 11 am–midnight
starts from Kálvin Square. ● 7 Café Miro Grande
Both places are packed with Liszt Ferenc tér 9 ≥ 321-8666
cosy restaurants, bars, cafés and a ó 9 am–1 am
youthful clientele. From a single star ● 8 Café Vian
to 4-star, you’ll find every kind of Liszt Ferenc tér 9 ≥ 268-
restaurant here serving everything from 1154 ó 9 am–midnight
traditional Hungarian to Chinese and even ● 9 Passion
Argentinean cuisine. Liszt Ferenc tér 10 ≥ 268-0199
ó 11 am–midnight
LISZT FERENC SQUARE: ● 10 Mediterrán Café
●1 Menza Liszt F. tér 10 ≥ 344-4615 ó 11.30 am–midnight
Liszt Ferenc tér 2 ≥ 413-1482 ó 10 am–midnight ●11 Le Roy Café
●2 Pompeí Liszt Ferenc tér 10 ≥ 411-0915 ó midday–midnight
Liszt Ferenc tér 3 ≥ 351-8738 ó 12 am–1 am ●
12 Karma
●3 Incognito Liszt Ferenc tér 11 ≥ 413-6764 ó 9 am–2 am
Liszt Ferenc tér 3 ≥ 342-1471 ●
13 Vörös Oroszlán Teaház
ó Mon–Thur: midday–midnight, Fri–Sun: 2 pm–2 am Jókai tér 8 ≥ 269-0579 ó 11 am–11 pm
50 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 51
RÁDAY STREET: ●
19 Jaffa Café
●1 Memoár Café Ráday utca 39 ó Mon–Fri:10 am–1 am, Sat: 1 pm–2
Ráday utca 1–3 ≥ 218-8698 ó 10 am–11 pm am, Sun: 4 pm–midnight
●2 Costes Restobár ●
20 Calvin
Ráday utca 4 ≥ 219-0696 ó midday–midnight Kálvin tér 8 ≥ 215-1215 ó 10 am–midnight
●3 Vörös Oroszlán Teaház ●
21 Pata Negra
Ráday utca 9 ≥ 215-2101 ó 11 am–11 pm Kálvin tér 8 ≥ 215-5616 ó 10 am–midnight
●4 Soul Café & Restaurant ●
22 Café Intenzo
Ráday utca 11–13 ≥ 217-6986 ó midday–1 am Kálvin tér 9 ≥ 219-5243 ó 10 am–midnight
●5 Ráday Drive 911
Ráday utca 11–13 ≥ 219-5452
ó midday–midnight
●6 Red Café
Ráday utca 14 ≥ 216-5628 ó midday–midnight
●7 Vörös Postakocsi
Ráday utca 15 ≥ 217-6756
ó 11.30 am–midnight
●8 Fotocella Gallery & Café
Ráday utca 17 ≥ 215-3248 ó 10 am–midnight
●9 Chinese Restaurant
Ráday utca 18 ≥ 218-9546 ó 10 am––10 pm
●
10 Prince of Persia
Ráday utca 21 ≥ 216-0566 ó 11 am–midnight
●
11 Shiraz Persian Restaurant
Mátyás utca 22 ≥ 218-0881 ó midday–midnight
●
12 Paris, Texas
Ráday utca 22 ≥ 218-0570 ó 10 am–3 am
●
13 Pink-Cadillac
Ráday utca 22 ≥ 216-1412 ó 11 am–1 am
●
14 Time Café
Ráday utca 23 ≥ 476-0433ó 11 am–1 am
●
15 Togana
Ráday utca 29 ≥ 217-6625 ó 11 am–midnight
●
16 Coramia
Ráday utca 31 ≥ 219-5233 ó 11 am–midnight
●
17 Star Café/Restaurant/Internet
Ráday utca 34 ≥ 215-2738 ó 10 am–midnight
●
18 Castro Bistro
Ráday utca 35 ≥ 215-0184 ó 9 am–midnight
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