tasting Corner

Singular
Sensation
Albariños from “Green” Spain’s Rias
Baixas are taking the white wine
world by storm

Photos and Text By

Jack Robertiello
Don Olegario Abariño grapes.

T
he signs of vinous prosperity are everywhere Popularity Contest
Driving the trend is the average wine
in northwest Spain. In the lush, coastal wine
drinker’s choice of Albariño as a new alter-
region of Galicia called Rias Baixas, the native to Chardonnay, says Doug Frost, au-
epicenter of the international Albariño grape varietal thor most recently of the 2008 Wines from
Spain: Far from Ordinary Wine Guide, who
boom, wineries are sprouting like morel mushrooms believes the sudden popularity is helping
after a spring rain – and their wares are just as grab attention.
“Part of its allure is this newness, like
cherished. Established vintners have been expanding Pinot Grigio was a scant few years ago,”
their facilities at a dizzying pace, with workers he says.
noisily hustling to erect new fermenting tanks and According to Wilfred Wong, cellar mas-
ter for the 100-unit California-based Bever-
bottling lines even as green, grape-laden trucks ages and More!, Albariño is well placed to
rumbled up to their doors last fall. continue its meteoric rise in popularity.
“It’s a star. It’s a fantastic wine and it
Lately, despite all the talk about red that, even with expansion, no one is able to seems to be reaching more and more of our
wines from Priorat and other emerging re- satisfy the demands of American importers. consumer base and tickling their fancy. It
gions, the fastest growing Spanish wines in How big is the Albariño boom? In 2007, has the aromatics that you don’t always find
the U.S are Albariños. “Our statistics for exports to the U.S. alone hit 1.75 million in Chardonnay or even Sauvignon Blanc;
wine for the Albariños from Rias Baixas liters, up almost a million liters since 2005, that white flower and fruit character, but
have been quite spectacular over the last and altogether accounting for more than half more body and weight,” says Wong.
few years,” says Katrin Naelappa, director of the world’s consumption. In the last 10 Like Riesling, adds Frost, Albariño
of Wines from Spain, which represents the years, the region has consistently increased wines can be very terroir-led, with the
wines in the U.S. its acreage under grapes and increased its adaptability to manifest a sense of place
While 2008 figures are not yet avail- total number of wineries from 132 to 194. in its aromas and flavors, revealing minute
able, all anecdotal reports from Spain indi- From a lean 2007 harvest, about 127 million differences throughout the sub-zones (see
cate another record will be reached when liters, the U.S. accounted for about a quarter sidebar). But as fruit-laden and aromatic as
exports are totaled. Significantly, the only of the world’s consumption and more than Albariño can be, unlike Riesling, it’s nearly
problem producers currently seem to face is half of total exports. always dry. “So there you have it: a new and
 Albariño 101

A
s a denomination of origin (DO) wine
region, Rias Baixas is a relative new-
comer, created in 1980 for Albariño,
which represents more than 90 % of plantings
there. Dominated by the cool, damp climate
of the Atlantic and the broad ocean estuar-
ies (rias) that reach deep into the coastline,
this part of “green Spain” faces fungal issues
in the vineyard, so planting and trellising
maximize sun and air exposure. Hand picking
is the standard, as is temperature controlled
maceration, fermentation and cold soaking.
Generally pale greenish gold in color, crisp
and refreshing, the wines can be expressively
aromatic, with notes of white peach, nectarine,
melon, honeysuckle and paper whites. They are
invariably dry and minerally, a versatile match
for all sorts of seafood, including intensely
spiced prawns, grilled spiny lobster, raw shell-
fish and fried or grilled fish.
Albariño tends to have high acidity, so
winemakers will sometimes soften them with
secondary malolactic fermentation, and are
cool grape that has loads of character, can
depict a sense of place, carries a wealth of
fruit flavors and is crisp, clean and dry,”
he concludes.
Food Match
Albariños also are winning favor with
consumers over other high-acid whites,
Vineyard at Condes de Albarei
says Wong, because its general flavor and
aroma profile makes it almost immediately
accessible to Americans who like ripe fruit
increasingly experimenting with yeasts and
but not too much sweetness. The medium
oak aging. Most of the focus, though, is on
natural acidity and textured body also pro-
expansion and new brands for the U.S. and
vides a curiosity factor for consumers ac-
U.K. markets.
costomed to leaner whites.
While Treixadura, Loureiro Blanco, Caino
“With the style of Chardonnay that’s
Blanco, Godello and Torrontes are the other
been consumed for the last 20 years in
main grapes in the region, if a label says
this country, Albariño is certainly an al-
“Albariño,” the region requires no blending.
ternative, almost diametrically opposed
While single-varietal Albariños dominate
in flavor profile,” says Carmen Castorina,
production, the area permits production
spokesman for Martin Codax importer,
of blends in different variations with sub-
Gallo. Also significant in its appeal is the
zone designations.
natural pairing with the seafood-focused
cuisine of the region, so different in cli-
mate from the rest of sunny Spain.

Tasting Notes of Leading Wines Albariños are making fans so quickly,

says John Bradbury, senior product direc-
tor, imported brands for Kobrand, which
n 2007 Don Olegario powerful limey acidity, a hefty, most, it finishes with a touch of
imports Don Olegario, because it is both
Rias Baixas Albariño: oily body and a touch of lush appealing citric bitterness and
straightforward and exotic: “There’s a re-
Angular and crisp, with white fruitiness which yields to an- zip. (European Cellars/Eric
liability and certain predictability with
blossoms, apricot skins and other bit of smoke and a pithy Solomon Selections)
Albariños, but also an excitement and
a tropical tang on the nose; bitter tang at the finish. (Euro-
n 2007 Martin Codax novelty that consumers in major markets
smacks of grapefruit, including pean Cellars/Eric Solomon)
Rias Baixas Albariño: want.”
some zingy pith and finishes
n 2007 Bodegas Ter- Fresh flowering herbs join While an Old World wine, the mod-
with lots of tongue-tingling
ras Gaudas Abadia de green apple and lime leaf in ern production methods and flavor profile
minerality and some pleasant
San Campio Rias Baixas the nose of this benchmark re- of most Albariños make them especially
bitterness. (Kobrand)
Albariño: This O Rosal tail Alabriño; medium bodied, appealing to Millennial consumers.
n 2007 Condes de Alba- estate-grown wine offers a with refreshing white peach In restaurants, consumers have been
rei Rias Baixas Albariño: bit of sappy balsam with the and pear flavors, the grip of discovering Albariños, says Castorina.
A perfect intro Albariño nectarine and peach notes; grapefruit and a lean finish. They already are a favorite in retail
produced by a large co-op on the palate, there’s a rush (Gallo) and Wong would welcome more brands to
winery, with green apple peel of grapefruity citrus spiked stock, too. He and others note that pricing
and nectarine aromas; please- with rosemary; sharp, rippling n 2007 Fefiñanes Rias is crucial to keep the trend alive; $10 to
ant peach and lemon flavors, acids finish winemaker Emilio Baixas Albariño: From one $20 may be the optimal range. With even
with good acidity and bite and Rodriguez Canas’ sophisti- of the oldest producers in Sal- entry-level brands priced higher than most
a clean and refreshingly flinty cated treat. (AV Imports) nés, a subdued and sophisti- whites, only bargain prices may be holding
lime finish. (CIV USA) cated Albariño with aromas of back an explosion in popularity. “But it’s
n 2007 Burgans Rias sugared lemon peel, rosemary distinctive and hard to grow. If it was too
n 2007 Pazo Senorans Baixas Albariño: Burgans and cut green melon; tangy easy to grow it would be boring and who
Rias Baixas Albariño: One is one of the most ubiquitous with balsam and sage notes would care about it?” adds Wong.
of the best received Albariños, Albariños in the market; on mingling with peach and pine- Whatever the future economy
it opens with a puff of smoke the nose, there’s a light floral, apple, it’s full-bodied, dense holds, Albariño fans can be reassured by
aroma, balsam and yew bush orange blossom quality with a and mature and finishes with its strong appeal. As Naelappa says: “The
knit in with green pear and touch of smokiness; ripe, with riveting acids and minerals. Rias Baixas producers always find a home
apple; on the palate there’s a bit more residual sugar than (Kysela Père et Fils, Ltd.) at our showcases." n