A Long Island: A - Photo Tour

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Havana Now: A Photo...
Authored by J K McCrea
8.0" x 10.0" (20.32 x 25.40 cm)
Black & White on White paper
168 pages
ISBN-13: 9781482509243
ISBN-10: 1482509245
RoaaLovers.com presents
Havana Now
November 2012
Creative Commons
Photos by JK McCrea
An 'Eyes on. Series Book
Copyright 2013 by JK McCrea
ISBN-13: 978-1482509243
ISBN-10: 1482509245
RoaaLovers.com Havana Now 2
What is Havana like?
Many oI us have seen the photos showing how
Havana looked in the 1950s.
Many oI us saw the National Geographic Magazine`s
article on Cuba in November 2012.
What is Havana like now?
Havana Now RoaaLovers.com 3
Current U.S. policy toward the island nation allows Iamily visits Ior Cuban-Americans,
but restricts the travel oI other U.S. citizens. The only way I might get on the island is to
pay $3000 Ior a week on a group tour.
My husband was made godIather oI his Havana Iriend`s child. That`s how I got an
opportunity to spend a week in Havana.
I wanted to capture photos that showed more than the typical travel poster. Four billion
people will never visit this city. This book is Ior you.
This is Havana in November 2012.
JK McCrea
'Habana me'` The private restaurant invitea us to have the full 'Havana experience`
. We got it.
These photos will preserve in our minds how Havana looked in November 2012.
The red 'A shows Hotel Ambos Mundos on Obispo Street in Havana Vieja. Creative
Commons
Old Havana
Several guidebooks list this location: 'Carriages Ior hire by tourists.
A map oI Old Havana (Wikipedia, Creative Commons).
The snack bar oIIers guarapo, sugar cane juice.
A vehicle museum on Obispo Street.
Located on Obispo street, tropical style
Hotel Florida has a quiet two-story atrium
with palms and large wicker chairs.
It's about a block west oI Ambos Mundos
hotel.
This is the symbol for an approved
"room for rent" in a private home.
Rates are generally one-third or less
than hotels.

She shouted, 'This is my job. No photos!
Delicate pastries in the Francesa
Look closely at the instrument held by the guy in the straw hat. That`s the lower jaw oI a
large animal.
Their music cascaded down Obispo Street.
A market on Obispo Street
The best chocolate in Old Havana.
The Committees to DeIend the Revolution (CDR)system was Iormed by Fidel Castro
on September 28, 1960.
This is a mass-market caIeteria with Iast-Iood service. Not the best ice cream.. Not Ior
gringos.
Gastronomic commercial complex
The Iive who are in prison in the USA
The vigorous and victorious revolution Go ahead! (street banner)
Books Ior sale in the plaza.
The voice oI the Cuban Patrimony.
Lots oI areas under construction (work, obra)
Avolunteer, viewed Irom Obispo Street.
Looking west down Obispo Street, 4 p.m., headed Ior the Capitulo.
The Plan oI the City
Here`s a description by russianyaz on virtualtourist.com
QUESTION: About traIIic. Is traIIic in Havana and other big cities very heavy all day or maybe
in the morning only?
The traffic is not so heavy. At least if U compare it with other countries. The
street with heavier traffic in Jeaaao, Havana for example, is 23ra. But aont
worry, U can arive without problems, many tourist ao it. I usea to go usually
in bicycle everywhere in Havana without problems. The worst time is off
course at morning ana in the afternoon between 3 ana 6pm. In the pic Ull
see the streets U askea for.

Also the naming of the streets in various neighborhooas of Havana like
Jeaaao, Miramar ana Playa is easy. Starting from 23, the parallel streets
going in the sea airections aecrease the number ana are only oaa numbers.
In the other airection they increase. The perpenaicular streets are namea by
the letters of the alphabet so starting from G going to the sea the next letter
is H ana the next one is I where the casa U choose is locatea. In the other
airection the previous street of G is F. The letters start from Paseo street,
where I usea to live. Away from Paseo the naming of the streets change to
even numbers....is really easy ,)
For example, the National Hotel is located near O Street and 21 Avenue. Below, you can see
Parque Lennon is between 6 and 8 (NE to SW) 15 and 17 (NW to SE). You can give directions oI
Calle 8 y 15 and people will know that there is an intersection oI an odd and an even number.
People

One oI them is the Gentleman oI Paris.
Quincineros at Hotel Nacional de Cuba. Sweet sixteen appears to take place a year earlier in
Hispanic culture. We imagine that dresses are rented and the photos are taken as part oI the day's
celebration.
We hired Ivan to take us to see the apartment where the author oI the song 'Guantanamera lived.
These girls wanted to sit in the Coco!
Near the Victor Hugo park.
Hotels
Melia Havana (located in Miramar). U.S. style business hotel, good Ior conventions and
conIerences. Large open spaces, destination restaurants and a view oI the ocean. There's a place
to walk into the water just west oI the property (we saw a visitor walk in with water shoes).
Hotel Nacional de Cuba
The main entrance. The historic plaque is just behind the grey car.
The entrance Iaces southwest.
The main lobby with Iour grandIather clocks on the right side. The exit to the street is on the leIt
with the emblem over the door. Exit to the right goes to the patio.
Acalmer moment, shooting the western halI oI the lobby. The Iormer casino is down the corridor
and to the right. The Parisien cabaret hall is straight ahead. The 24-hour caI and the dining
room are down the stairs to the leIt.
Near the elevators (east end oI the lobby).
The hallways are stark. Photos and articles are
reproduced Irom the hotel`s construction in 1930.
Imagine staying here in the 1940s. No TV in the room. The entertainment was on the patio, in
the lobby and at the Parisien.
View oI the Malecon Irom the Iourth Iloor.
Annie Betancourt was leading a group with the Florida League of women voters.
The west wing of the hotel (on the
level of the lobby) offers "the best
night in Havana" at Cabaret
Parisien.
Ah, the Iresh Iruit.
The breakIast buIIet. Oh, the Iresh papaya and guava juice.
Not boiled, not scrambled, not Iried. what
kind oI eggs are these?
The Iancy dining room in the east wing.
Art in the lobby.
He`s no longer with us, but one oI the Iaces oI the Buena Vista Social Club is still the Iace oI
Salon 1930.
Atypical sign in the hotel.
Around the hotel
Eighteen dollars a day to use the pool.
Waiting Ior currency exchange at the hotel.
From here, you can almost see the memorial to the victims oI the U.S.S. Maine, just beyond the
right edge oI the photo.
The view oI the Malecon is straight ahead.
Mint Ior mojitos.
Let`s sit on the patio
Oh, those calm breezes Irom the North.Must study. must learn more. must. zzzz
The original pool. The breakIast room is on the leIt.
We met a British lady who enjoyed swimming in the
morning beIore breakIast.
Dawn looking east along the Malecon.

Live music plays throughout the day and evening.
The hotel at night
View Irom the corner oI O and 21 (the main entrance)
The caI in the basement. Tasty eggs Ior dinner.
The west wing oI the patio, with the Iormer casino on the right.
The east wing, with a music group. The men`s restroom is right behind the band. The east and
west wings have signs indicating 'Smoking section, and there`s no sign in the central part oI the
patio.
View at night with our back to the Malecon.
Astatue on the east side oI the garden in Iront oI the
patio.
II we walked any Iarther, we`d spend $30 a head to hear the music oI the night.
The best mojitos in Havana are
made here (we were assured).
An all-Iemale vocal and rhythm group plays on Saturday evening next to the Iountain in Iront oI
the patio oI HNC.
Tour oI the Hotel Nacional de Cuba (HNC)
2012 minus 50 years . The IiItieth anniversary oI the Cuban missile crisis was on display during
our visit to the hotel. Asmall case under glass in one oI the tunnels north oI the hotel displayed a
uniIorm donated by the guide Estela.
The second Iloor retains the original look Irom the
1930s.

The Frank Sinatra room,
Adisplay at the entrance oI the underground trenches.
Tour oI the museum (and bar)
The hotel's tour guide Estela claimed that she heard that Steven Spielberg said in an interview that
he had been in "the Bahamas" when shown a photo Irom his visit to the Hotel Nacional.

More than photos. Arock star leIt a guitar here.
The chess master Capablanca was here.
Bola de Nieve (Snowball) played piano in the restaurant across the street Irom the HNC.
Adetail Irom the history walls (1960s) Ieatures the
Russian cosmonaut.
View Irom above.
The Iormer casino is behind the bar.
We went Ior a walk across La Rampa (23 Avenue) and wandered
east Ior several blocks aIter sunset.
AIriendly passerby asked what we were
looking Ior. We said, 'Batidos and she
suggested a small restaurant around the
corner. and down two blocks. and then
right and another two blocks, then a right
turn.
AIter giving us the tour, the Iriendly son gave us his email address.
We Iound a pastry shop.
Maracas, a quiet restaurant.
It looked scary, but it wasn`t.
Cuban rhythms coming Irom a terrace one Iloor above street level.
They`re really working on that car.
The car up on cinder blocks is just to the right, down the street 100 meters.
Transportation
Cocos look like oversized helmets. Another model has a squared-oII rear.
RoaaLovers.com Havana Now 66 Havana Now RoaaLovers.com 67
"Gold Black" (oro negro)
We heard that some gasoline is sold with lead.
White smoke in the exhaust often means that you are burning antifree:e.
http://wiki.answers.com/
Ivan ("Your Amigo in Havana," according to his sign-oII in our journal) gave us a slower tour
around Vedado and Central Havana, Iinishing with a brieI stop at the Miranda statue at the
western side oI the entrance to the main harbor.
Famous Buildings
In the background is the FOCSAopened in 1957. The penthouse is open at noon. We passed it
twice on Ioot in the morning so we didn't get around to seeing the view.
China gate.
The steps oI the Capitulo.
There`s a large statue inside the main hall oI the Capitulo.
The John Lennon statue is in Vedado, at the intersection oI Calle 6 and Calle 15
Turn around and you`ll see the view (top photo) oI the Granma boat.
There are two museos de Bellas Artes. This is the contemporaneous art, Ieaturing artists Irom the
20th Century (photos Iorbidden).
Che`s outline appears near the Jose Marti monument
Astadium east oI the city, on the road to Santa Maria beach.
The Victor Hugo monument, about ten blocks southwest oI the HNC.
Street scenes
The other side oI the China Gate.
Where are the cars? It appears to be Puerto Rico without the heavy traIIic.
At the intersection oI Calle L and Calle 17
Another walking street
An artist painted the Iacades oI several blocks, creating a tourist attraction.
Architecture
Near the Hotel Nacional. Around the corner is a Iood store where we stocked up on botellas de
agua.
The balconies look like coIIins Ior a reason. The teenager son oI the building`s owner drowned
while swimming in the ocean.
Malecon
The Malecon, looking north. For several days the high winds created waves that splashed over
the wall, soaking the sidewalk.
.
The grand sea wall protects the north boundary oI La Habana. The west end oI the wall starts at
this two-story Iort, popular Ior drinks at dusk.
This is the start oI the Malecon on the west end.
View oI the Malecon Irom the Hotel Nacional. It was hard to Iind a place to walk down to the
water. 'Es peligroso, many locals told us.
Shopping
Stores
A hardware store near the FOCSA building.
Street Vendors
Selling mani (peanuts rolled in a tall narrow cone).
Open Markets
There`s an open market about eight blocks southeast Irom the Hotel Nacional on 19
Avenue.

He oIIered me the coconut water.
Abakery near the open market.
The CraIts Market Warehouse
Near the south end oI Old Havana is a Iormer
warehouse where vendors display handicraIts
Irom around the island.
It's a great place to get a coco Irio
(with or without rum).

AIter The Bacardi Iamily's Iactories were nationalized and the government started a new label:
Havana Club. The logo appears on t-shirts, too.
Restaurants
La Roca.
The menu at La Roca.
The little rabbit English pub
Near the HNC. Bola de Nieve played piano here.
Aprivate restaurant in the apartment building at O and 21.
BreakIast Ior dinner in the basement caI (HNC).
Apizza at Nardo`s (across Irom the Capitol building in Old Havana).
The second Iloor oI Nardo`s.
Entrance to Nardo`s.
Palenque, a complex oI six restaurants in Miramar.
Ah, yucca.
We recommend the meat here.
A nightclub on La Rampa (23 Avenue) two blocks Irom the HNC.
Areas Outsiae Central Havana
Miramar and Inside Homes
A three-level home in Miramar.
Aguy with a beard lives here.
Bottles oI boiled water are cooled and ready to go.
Patio oI a retired teacher, ready Ior a client.
Aseawall and seaside pool in Miramar.
The retired teacher`s sitting room.
Let`s visit the home oI the ahijada.

Local produce.
Necropolis
What is that white block in the lower leIt?
The goal: The resting place oI the Grandmaster Capablanca.
The double three (3/3) was this person's last tile.
We're leaving a note on the tomb oI Grandmaster Capablanca.
The Fort
Cojimar, the Hemingway Harbor
The road Irom the coastal highway comes Irom the south

Hemingway's Finca Vigia
On the road heading southeast out oI Havana.
The 'A marks Finca Vigia,
about 12 km Irom Central
Havana.
The 'B marks Simon
Bolivar Avenue.
The Pink spot is the Hotel
Nacional.
At the gatehouse oI the museum.
Extracting the juice Irom sugar cane.
Guaraporecommended sin hielo.
The guest house (on the right) with the main house Iarther on.
The view looking north (Irom the Cat Tower).
Who walked up these stairs?
Front entrance.
Greeting us on the right side oI the entrance.
A view Irom the Iront entrance toward the dining room.
The Living Room
The Writing Room
He stood to type.
Some oI his texts in translation.
The Bath Room
A view through to the Writing Room.
The courageous lizard. Hemingway thought the lizard had Iought bravely when attacked
by his cat. To commemorate the lizard`s last stand, he put it on display.
The dining room on the leIt, the main sitting room in the middle.
The study, located between the dining room and the bedroom.
Detail oI a screenprint in the study.
Lots oI journals in the bedroom. We hope those books have been scanned.
Dressing table in the bedroom.
The jacket reads 'War Correspondent.
More than ten years oI watching his weight, ending in 1959.
Getting heavier
His Iighting weight (around 198 pounds).
A painting in the dining room.
The dining room. The door at the Iar end oI the hall is the main entrance, which Iaces south.
The Pilar (Hemingway`s Iishing boat)
End Note
Thank you Ior taking time to visit the island through my photos.
The cost
It costs $350 each to Ily 227 miles Irom Miami to Havana (more than a trip to New York,
which is Iour times Iarther), we stayed in a private apartment ($40 a night with
breakIast), our Iriend rented a car Ior $50 a day and spent about $20 Ior Iuel, and we each
paid $25 at the airport as a departure tax. We spent $40 a day on Iood, so the entire trip
was just under $1200.
Room 280
Food 280
Car 370
Airplane 700
Overweight 141**
Airport tax 50
------------------------------------
$1821 Ior the two oI us.
Quotes by tour groups: $2400 to $3200 per person
**We brought more than 60 pounds oI medicines, baby Iood and pens.
The Future
I hope change comes to Cuba at a pace that the islanders can cope with. I hope they don`t
get ripped oII by the con artists. Cuba is where I was when I was in my 20s. I was open,
nave and inexperienced. I didn`t question things. I didn`t have enough experience to
question things.
It`s like going to a doctor and he says, 'I`m going to take something out oI you. I would
say, 'Okay, and I wouldn`t know to get a second opinion. You`re a doctor, you must
know. Well, when Cuba opens up, some people are going to come and tell them that they
need surgery when they don`t.
Someone will tell them to raze many oI the old buildings. I hope that doesn`t happen.

Wikipeaia, Creative Commons.
I look Iorward to sharing more photos with you at JKMcCrea.net
Blog: RoadloversInternational.com.
JK McCrea

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