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By Iain Tolhurst
Tolly of Tolhurst Organic Produce is an Organic Consultant and Horticultural Adviser; he writes from his Berkshire farm which produces 120 tonnes of stockfree vegetables per year for a local box scheme. (tolhurstorganic.go.uk).
Woodchips dont have a good reputation as a source of fertility within organic circles. I had a negative experience with them myself back in the early 80s when we were in Cornwall growing strawberries. I came across a lovely big pile of woodchips at a local joinery workshop, mostly pine, great smell. Knowing that strawberries benefited from a dose of pine needles (a little knowledge can be a very dangerous thing) I assumed that pine wood ought to do roughly the same sort of job and keep the weeds down as well; we had always used straw under the fruit to keep it clean. The woodchips were much easier and quicker to spread, looked nice too and did a brilliant job of keeping the weeds down; the resultant crop was looking very good. That was until we tasted them they had a flavour like pine scented Jeyes fluid. The resins had got into the ripening fruit and they were unmarketable. Fortunately only a section of crop was treated in this way so we managed to remain sort of solvent, but the worst was yet to come. The crop was turned in, having got to three years old, along with all the woodchips. Stupid thing to do! I had an idea that high carbon materials were not too good for nutrient availability, but something drove me to get the whole lot out of sight, so an expedient method seemed to be incorporation, followed by a green manure of mustard and rye sown in August. The green manure germinated normally but by the end of autumn it was clear that not all was well. The crop was yellow and stunted; the effect was in strips coinciding exactly with where the woodchips had been placed, with lush green strips in between that had previously been pathways. This effect was clearly the locking up of N and it continued for a further two seasons. Clover eventually put things right but it caused a disruption in the rotation; not that we had a particularly clever rotation in those days.
the earthworms to process it slowly avoids any issues with N lock-up. Over the past few years I have got back into woodchips as a raw ingredient for compost. As with many things in life this just sort of happened without too much design, when the material became available in reasonable quantities from a tree surgeon friend. You know how it goes: evening party, a few drinks and things, and you get unusually co-operative and friendly. Hey Tolly Im having to pay to tip my woodchips at the local dump, how about me putting them in your field when I pass by? So I reply Yes of course, no problem at all not really thinking it through and assuming that the beer is talking and it is unlikely to happen. Next morning there it was - a huge pile of wood chips steaming away in the entrance to my field. My mate Ian works locally felling and tidying peoples trees, mostly ornamental stuff with plenty of Cupressus Leylandii. Now I know why people grow it around their gardens. Its not to screen out the neighbours - its for making
Cupressus Leylandii: it might need lopping but the loppings can be put to good use. From commons.wikimedia.org
A lesson learned
It was a lesson that taught me a great deal but it also made me wary of woodchips as a source of organic material. I kept clear of it for several decades after that, with the exception of surface mulching perennial crops, for which it is perfect. Allowing
36 GGI No 28 Winter 2011
compost! The material is dumped around 2 cubic metres at a time and comes with either a mix of species or just one type. The chips are usually quite small, long and narrow, with the largest at around 50mm. During the summer it tends to be around 50% green and 50% brown and during the winter this changes to predominantly brown, apart from the Leylandii. If it has any green in it at all it heats up rapidly, especially so with the Leylandii. I leave the material for several weeks just as it has been dumped, in a long windrow. After around 6-8 weeks it is turned using a small digger with an extended bucket that speeds the job up. I can shift 50 cubic meters in a couple of hours. The material is always hot, although there will be areas that are very dry, especially summer material which heats up rapidly and tends to dry out. With mixing, the wet is turned into the dry material. In general it is too dry compared with traditional compost materials; this I initially thought was going to be a problem so I tried setting up an irrigation system over the heap. It was ineffective because the water tended to run right through the material and out the bottom, so I gave up.