Proposal

of Sample Room
Performance Enhancement
Prepared by Raymond Chong
October 2008

1
 Scope / Aim
Service –
A. Customer Satisfaction ( External / Internal )
B. Scope of Service
Competitiveness –
A. Quality Right 1st Time
B. Accuracy
C. Efficiency
D. Cost / Sample Charge
Organization –
A. Quality of People
1. Knowledge / Capability
2. Collaboration / Motivation / Self-Discipline
B. Structure
2
 Involved Parties
Management
Merchandising Department
Technical Department
A. Fit Tech
B. Wet Processing Tech
Sample Room
Outsource Supplier
A. Sample Factory
B. Washing Laundry
C. Embroidery Supplier
D. Printing Supplier
3
4
 Customer Satisfaction
External –
A. Sample Room is a part of CFL family and
flexibility to have Quality development
sample Right 1st Time to have customer
confidence to CFL capability
Internal –
 Sample Room is also a key-part of technical
department to provide service for the need of
internal customer in order to get better result
of business
5
Sample Room Productivity Review
　 Jun -0 8 Oct- 08
To tal of Wor king Days 25 25
To tal of Sew ing
19 18
Wor ker s
No. # of S am ple Order
285 33 7
( incl wash panel etc. )
No. # of S am ple Made 14 61 1546
Daily Output ( SMV ) 5. 83 6. 77
SR QC R ej ect Ra te 21% 7%
Fit Tech Re vie w Rate 14% 19 %
Fit Tech Re ject Rate 5% 3%
Conclusion : Sample Room performance is much improved in
term of Output & Quality
6
 Sample Room Lead-time Review
Sampling Leadtime
Data Source: Sample Room Charges Report for May' 08 & SSR Report for Jul to Aug' 08 Accumulative % on Jun-08
Period (Order Date): June 01 - June 31 & Oct 01 - Oct 31 Accumulative % on Oct-08
Report Prepare Date: 16 Oct, 08
Lead time Calculation: Completion Date - Complete Info Receiving Date - All leadtime of outsourced processes
Remarks: 1. Leadtime excludes Saturday and Sunday
2. For outsourced process receiving date later than Completion Date, the latest will be taken for calculation

110.00%

100.00%

90.00%
Accumulative % of Finished Qty

80.00%

70.00%

60.00%

50.00%

40.00%

30.00%

20.00%

10.00%
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Leadtime / day
 Scope of Service
CFL SR set-up is not for
production flow
A. Focus on product development
B. Support merchandising for costing efficiency
C. Collaborate with fit tech for garment engineering
support
Salesman Sample ( Outsourced Sample Factory )
Setup of some outsourced sample factories are more
than suitable for Salesman Sample as they are setup
like a small factory. E.g. Hung Fat, Heng Lee.

8
 Scope of Service
 Knit Product Sample –
A. SR setup is mainly for Woven item and
limitation of knit sewing machines and skillful
sewing workers
B. Solution –
1. SR can handle knit samples based on actual
projection from MU.
2. SR cannot handle Special Knit Fabrication
( like swimwear fabric high percentage of
spandex )
3. Salesman sample and special knit fabric
should be produced in appropriate outsource
( Sample Factory or Production Factory )
9
10
 Quality Right 1st Time
Quality Right 1st Time ( Sample Order Form ) –
Information is very important how Quality
Sample to be made Right 1st Time
B. To avoid information error by minimize hand-
written sample order form. A computerized
system is under testing, plan roll out by end 3rd
quarter
C. Propose enhancement to computerized sample
order form with more compulsory fields ( Even
N/A, NIL or TBA must be filled )
D. Sample order form training – Refresh regular
training for all new and existing merchandising
11
 Quality Right 1st Time ( Involvement /
Support from Fit Tech ) –
A. Initial Tech Pack – Screen all technical
information before passing to SR
B. Clarification – Check with customer if need to
ensure technical information is clear before
sample process
C. Cross Training – Encourage the new technical
staff / trainee to help SR for translation if time is
allowed
D. Updated / Revised Information – Provide from
individual Fit Tech
12
 Quality Right 1st Time ( Sample Room ) –
A. SR Merchandiser – Translation on the tech pack
has to be complete
B. Pattern Maker – Must review all info ( incl.
comment and reference sample ) before process
C. Sewing Worker – Customer requirement must
be adhered, suggest to put the sewing guide
for demonstration on board for sewing
workers reference
a. Scoop Pocket Opening ( Rolling at Edge )
b. Back Rise Fell Seam ( Roping )
13
Quality Right 1st Time ( Sample Room ) –
A. QC / Sample Checking –
1. Follow How to Measure guide of each brand
is a must
2. Review sample with all the latest tech pack /
information from SR merchandiser is an
essential
3. Tick all points with Signature on the tech
pack and checked tech pack should be
attached on sample before dispatch

14
 Accuracy
Accuracy ( Award and Penalty Scheme ) –
The current scheme is not effective
A. Award Scheme –
1. Concept of Quality Right 1st Time has to be
adopted for all and tie-in with award scheme
2. Any mistake should be recorded accurately
3. Award criteria should be changed based on
accurate record
4. Extend the scheme to the monthly workers
B. Penalty Scheme – Cancel Penalty Scheme and
cover through performance review process

15
Accuracy ( Block in Library System and
Document Control ) –
1. Block Library should be collected all below as a
package putting at the Central Place :
1. Relevant Sample
2. Physical Pattern
3. Latest Tech Pack
B. Block Filing System has to be adhered :
1. Physical Paper Pattern
2. E-Pattern Block
C. Block Library should be documented for each
different brand / customer in different Excel file
D. Fit tech should assign for product development use
and work with SR proper utilization
16
 Reference Only – Click out the chart to see the Block Library example

APPROVED BY : C hi Bui / J oan Madison C hi Bui / J oan Madison C hi Bui / J oan Madison

APPROVAL DATE : J ul., 06 2005 J ul., 06 2005 J ul., 06 2005

Women's WTW
Pant

EDITOR
LUXURY STRETC H (2 WAY) B ROC ADE / RIGID STRETC H C OTTON SATEEN ( 1 WAY )

STORAGE AREA - U: 92 BLOC K 92 BLOCK 92 BLOC K

EDITOR ST 1 Pattern EDITOR RIG Pattern EDITOR ST 2 Pattern
MODEL NAME 07-06-05 Measurement 07-06-05 Measurement 07-06-05 Measurement
REFERENCE T/P OR TEMPLATE
92F2723 07-06-05 92P2900 07-06-05 92P2942 07-06-05
INSEAM 33 33 33 33 33 33
WAIST 32 1/4 32 1/4 32 1/4 32 1/4 32 1/4 32 1/4
WAIST BAND AT SEAM 33 5/8 33 5/8 33 1/2
WAIST "BODY" AT SEAM 34 1/8 34 1/8 34
LOW HIP @4" B/ LW.B. 38 1/4 38 3/8 38 1/2 38 3/4 38 1/4 38 3/8
THIGH @1" B/ LCROTCH 24 1/8 24 1/8 25 25 24 1/4 24 1/4
KNEE @12" B/ LCROTCH 18 1/2 18 1/2 18 1/2 18 1/2 18 1/2 18 1/2
LEG OPENING 21 1/2 21 1/2 21 1/2 21 1/2 21 1/2 21 1/2
WB HEIGHT 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 5/8

17
Accuracy ( Washing VS Shrinkage ) –
1. Whenever BU received the updated
information must go through SR with
amendment form
a. SR should decide to start over again for the
shrinkage process or Proto Sample can still be
continuous for washing
b. BU has to pay for sample charge if sample has
to be remade
2. Wet Processing Tech – 0% Shrinkage Sample,
Washed Proto Sample and the Log Sheets
must be verified
3. SR SOP should be more specific the flow and
definition of verification to avoid confusion
18
Accuracy – Correct Procedure of Laundry for Development
Sample

Should not go with shortcut, must go

through SR with amendment form ( Laundry )

New Log Sheet

( Merchandising ) New Standard
( Sample Room )
Original Log Sheet
Original Standard Build-in Shkg based
on 0% shkg smpl

Attach Orig Log

Sheet / Standard
( Laundry ) with Proto Smpl
( Sample Room )
( Laundry )
Adopt correct wash
Original Log Sheet effect by 3 Wash Wash Proto Smpl
Original Standard Panels first based on Orig Log
3 Wash Panels
Sheet / Standard
0% Shrinkage Smpl Wash 0% Shrinkage WP Tech must
Smpl for adopt VERIFY again
correct shkg, WP
Tech will sign-off

19
Accuracy ( Knit Product ) –
A. Merchandising must provide enough time for
Sample Room to establish shrinkage to have
Quality sample Right 1st Time
B. Sample Room should pre-shrink / relax ( E.g. at
least 8 hours or overnight ) the knit fabric to
release all various shrinkage without excuse
PS : If fabric delayed SR will adjust delivery
accordingly

20
 Efficiency
Efficiency ( Lead-time / Target Date )
A. Proto / Fit ( Normal ) –
5 working days subject to all information is clear
and trims is well received ( excluding
outsource )
3) SR SOP should be more specific to ensure
merchandising to be aware
D. Merchandising must specify a reasonable sample
requested date SR can realize the priority
E. SR will process based on normal lead-time
according to SR SOP ( revised ) if merchandising
did not put the a sample requested date on
sample order form 21
22
 Total, 79 SAMPLE DELAY CAUSE
80 BU VS SAMPLE ROOM
Counted by No.# of Process
70

60 Total, 55

50
HKO, 43 HKO, 42

40 SZO, 36

30

20
SZO, 13

10

0
BU Sample Room
 0
5
10
15
20
25

Unreasonable Total
Leadtime HKO
SZO

Measurement Tot
Clarification HKO
SZO

Washing Info Total

Delay HKO
SZO

Construction Total
Clarification HKO
SZO
Counted by No.# of Process

Total
SAMPLE DELAY CAUSE (BU)

Fabric Delay HKO

SZO

Total
Trims Delay
HKO
SZO
 SAMPLE DELAY CAUSE
30 (Sample Room)

Total
Counted by No.# of Process
HKO – 94 sample orders

HKO
25 SZO – 52 sample orders

20

Total
15

Total

HKO
10
HKO

SZO
SZO

5 SZO

0
Pattern Delay Cutting Delay Sewing Delay
 Conclusion ( Top 5 Reasons for Delay ) –
A. Pattern Delay –
B. Measurement Clarification –
C. Unreasonable Lead-time –
D. Washing Information Delay –
E. Sewing / Finishing Delay –
 Fit Tech involvement will help improve A & B, will
further investigate the pattern making capability VS
complexity of style
 For C & D, sufficient lead-time and clear washing
information from merchandising will help efficiency
 SR has to stick to 5 working days policy for process
26
 Efficiency ( Quality Management System ) –
The 5-S Principle is an easier tool to help
organizations to build a culture of continuous
improvement and a technique to maintain superior
quality and environment. On top of its easiness to
operate, the 5-S Principle could effectively
improve :
A. Safety (S),
B. Hygiene (H),
C. Quality (Q),
D. Image (I),
E. Productivity (P),
F. Competitiveness (C)
27
 Sort / Structure –
A. Clean out the stuff in SR warehouse unrelated
to SR and make room for left-over fabric,
basic trims, old mannequins, machines from
open area into warehouse
B. Leftover Salesman Sample Yardage should
be stored in warehouse, or move to order
factory for production sampling

28
Stuffs is not belonged to SR in Warehouse

29
OLD MANNEQUINS / STUFFS

30
OLD MACHINE / EQUIPMENT

31
LEFT-OVER FABRIC / YARDAGE

32
 Systematize –
A. Sample Status Report ( SSR ) should be on the
individual sheet
B. Quality Manuals / Block Patterns / Tech Packs
should be filed in the central place
Shine / Sanitize –
A. Work-place and warehouse should be clean up
all time and manage by assigned person
B. Warehouse should be organized for fabric / trims
storage with sticker index indicated

33
CURRENT FABRIC – STORAGE

34
SEWING THREAD ORGANIZATION

35
Sewing Thread – After Organized

36
BASIC TRIMS – STORAGE

37
Basic Trims – After Organized

38
 Standardization –
A. Organize all files / trims for easy finding
B. Setup the Basic Trims Logistic Management
Sustain / Self-discipline –
A. Management / leader has to be a Paragon of self
discipline for the all workers
B. Train all staffs to put back to original place after
used for those information, tools, material and
paper pattern etc.

39
Cartons Boxes stuck in SR warehouse long time

40
Left-over Fabric stuck in SR warehouse long time

41
SELF-DISCILPINE ( THREAD )

42
SELF-DISCILPINE ( SNAP )

43
 5-S Principal
A. Cost of Consultancy / Certification
and Training
Consultancy – Train & Access ( Approx. HKD 66,000 )
Register & Certification with 2 SR auditors ( Approx. HKD
21,500 for 1.5 days )
1. Accredited Certification company ( SGS / HKQAA ) will
provide training for the company and staffs
2. SGS / HKQAA will help to establish the 5-S principal
certified institution to be in place
3. Semi-year surveillance audit for first 3 years and annual
surveillance audit afterwards
D. Benefit –
Besides of S. H. Q. I. P. C., and 5-S can help the whole sample
room organization to be self-discipline and self-initiative

44
 Efficiency ( Trims Responsibility ) –
A. Basic Trims – Have been sourcing / keeping in-
house storage for 100 pcs under logistic
management
B. Special Trims – Merchandising must be supplied
all of them on time
PS : Both have been implemented since May-08
Efficiency ( Fabric Order / Delivery ) –
A. Should arrange fabric to be delivered by
fabric mill direct to SR
B. Fabric swatch must be attached on top of sample
order form to avoid confusion
45
 Efficiency ( Fabric Storage in SR ) –
A. Admin / Finance department should clean up
warehouse to provide appropriate storage area
for SR
B. Left-over yardage in sample room warehouse
should be cleaned up every 3 month
C. Move the left-over Sample yardage to
order factory for production sampling
D. Current Fabric under cutting table should be
classified by woven / knit and different BU /
customer use with sticker index indicated.
Manage / update record by the cutting
department supervisor
46
 Efficiency ( Outsource Follow-up ) –
A. Outsource Details Translation – Manage by
Merchandising or WP Tech where applicable
B. Responsible of Follow-up for Execution /
Lead-time – SR SOP should be more specific
of merchandising responsibility to follow up
C. Exceptional Case ( E.g. weekend ) – SR
merchandiser can help to follow-up by
requested

47
 Efficiency ( Provide Garment
Engineering assistance from Fit Tech ) –
A. Exchange Idea – Work with SR / factory how
garment construction can be simplified or fabric
consumption can be reduced without style change
B. System / Method / Technique / Skill – Fit Tech
should provide any guidance for enhancing the
productivity
Efficiency ( Setup Shrinkage Matrix
in base ) –
1. SR / Fit Tech / WP Tech should collaborate
to establish result of Base Reference

48
Reference Only – Click out the chart to see the Shrinkage Matrix example

Cotton Twill 128 x 60

Enz Stone Enz Stone
Washes
Rinse Rinse Enz Wash Enz Wash + Silicon + Silicon Garment
15 min 30 min 45 min 60 min 45 min 60 min Dyed

Weft ( % ) 2 2 3.5 3.8 4 4.2 4.5

Warp ( % ) 3 3.5 4.5 5 5 5 5

Cotton Twill 108 x 58

Enz Stone Enz Stone
Washes
Rinse Rinse Enz Wash Enz Wash + Silicon + Silicon Garment
15 min 30 min 45 min 60 min 45 min 60 min Dyed

Weft ( % ) 1.8 2 3.2 3.5 3.8 4.2 4.5

Warp ( % ) 2.8 3 4 4.5 4.5 5 5.2

Cotton Corduroy 12 w
Enz Stone Enz Stone
Washes
Rinse Rinse Enz Wash Enz Wash + Silicon + Silicon Garment
15 min 30 min 45 min 60 min 45 min 60 min Dyed

Weft ( % ) 2 2 3.5 3.8 4 4.2 4.5

Warp ( % ) 3 3.5 4.5 5 5 5 5

49
 Efficiency ( Communication ) –
A. Regular Daily Phone Call / Cell Contact –
1. Merchandising – Speed-up clarification
2. Sample Room – Collect cell phone contact numbers
of merchandising / fit tech for urgent issue
2) Regular SR Visit / Face to Face Touchbase –
1. Merchandising – Regular face to face touchbase to
have better understanding / communication
2. Fit Tech – Conduct more often ( per brand and per
month )
3. Sample Room Visit ( Special / Urgent Case ) –
1. Merchandising – Visit SR for clarification before
sample process
2. Special Case – Merchandising / fit tech should visit
SR right away for uncertain / pending issue
50
 Efficiency ( Current SMV System ) –
A. Current SMV has to be reviewed and fine tune
based on criteria and how complicated style
For Example of influencing productivity :--
2. Cargo Pant with more than 2 cargo pockets
3. 5 Pocket Jean with several contrast color
topstitching
2) Sample Allocation –
Better arrangement for sample allocation with
skillful worker to have better productivity

51
 Efficiency ( Non Sewing Hour ) –
A. Should have SMV record for the following
special requests :
1. Washing Panels
2. 0% Shrinkage Sample
3. Half or Quarter Pant Mock
4. Mock-up
B. Further classify Non Sewing Hours ( E.g.
Thread Trimming, Sample Room
Organization etc. ) for sewer without normal
task
52
 Efficiency ( Tools Support ) –
A. Chalk for Cutting Department – Use chalk pack
the line is fine / thin by rolling chalk powder to
avoid re-trimming by sewing department
B. Core Pencil – Better Core Pencil can be have
fine line for pattern drafting
C. Plotter Ink – SR has to keep stock

53
 Efficiency ( 3D Fit Solution ) –
B. Investment :
Software – USD 12,000 per module ( Category - Bottom,
Shirt, Blazer etc. ) for 1st year
Upgrade / Maintenance – 15% for following each year
Visual Dress Form – USD 2,500 per form
Benefit / Advantage –
 Reduce Time, Number of Sample and Cost
B. Allows immediate result without making physical
sample
C. Offers an excellent communication tool between clients
and vendors
 By deploy to 3D Fit Solution, the headcount of Fit Tech
and Pattern Maker can be reduced
 Market User : JC Penny, Newway ( Mother Works ),
TAL and Giordiano
54
 Cost / Sample Charge
Production Factory – Provide proto
free of charge service with bulk order
placing
PS : Factory will charge for Double FOB for
Salesman Sample order as usual in the
market
Sample Room – Only development sampling
the charge should be equal to Double FOB.
Current sample charge is reasonable
PS : Special discount offered for Salesman
Sample order is more than competitive /
55
 0
100
150
200
250
300
350
400
450
500

50
Shirt
Short
Skirt
Pant
Jean
Trousers
Cargo Pant
Child's Pants
Dress
Long Skirt
Wind Breaker
Denim Jacket
Top with Zip Front
Top with Zip Front with hood
Pajamas ( 2 pcs )
Blazer
Jacket / w/ lining / w/ contrast
Trousers / w/ lining / w/
T-Shirt / Tank top
Knit Polo 1/2 placket
Knit cardigan-full placket
Comparison Sample Room Pattern Charge

Knit cardigan-full placket with

Fashion knits
Hat / Cap
Scarf
Market Price
Sample Room

56
 0
100
200
300
400
500
600
Shirt
Short
Skirt
Pant
Jean
Trousers
Cargo Pant
Child's Pants
Dress
Long Skirt
Wind Breaker
Denim Jacket
Top with Zip Front
Top with Zip Front
Pajamas ( 2 pcs )
Blazer
Jacket / w/ lining / w/
Trousers / w/ lining /
T-Shirt / Tank top
Knit Polo 1/2
Knit cardigan-full
Knit cardigan-full
Comparison Sample Room Proto Sample Charge

Fashion knits
Hat / Cap
Scarf
Market Price
Sample Room

57
58
 Quality of People
After observation of case study and
interviews, recommend upgrade exposure for
: Merchandising, Wet Processing Tech, Fit
Tech Department and Sample Room
Knowledge / Capability
Collaboration / Teamwork
Proactive / Motivation
Self-Discipline
Management / HR Support for training /
cross-training, seminar and related tools
 Structure
Change Recommendation for Merchandising
–
A. BU Merchandiser for Product Development –
Relocate the work station to SR
3) SR Merchandiser ( total 4 ) –
Change the direct report from SR to BU
Benefit / Advantage with ( A & B ) –
1. Will have better communication
2. Work more closely for information
transferring
3. Follow-up will be more smooth in the same
location
60
 Structure
Change Recommendation for Technical Support
–
A. Fit Tech – Change the roles / responsibility
to manage from development to TOP
2) HK Sample Room Technical Support –
Position can be transferred to fit tech / SR for other
initiatives once Fit Tech involved development
4. HK Sample Room Merchandiser –
Position can be switched to Fit Tech department
Benefit / Advantage with ( A, B & C ) –
1. Communication channel will be streamlined
2. Ease up bottle neck of sample order in HKO without
holding
3. Use the headcount for more productive use
61
 Structure
Additional Position –
Sample Room Assistant Manager –
2. Reporting – Monitor and Analyze
 SR Charge Report
 Sample Status Report

3. Quality Management System – Maintain

4. Warehouse Organization – Monitor
5. Basic Trims Logistic Management – Manage

62
63