WINTER quality inspection

Template

& Defects in apparels

PRESENTED BY
ABHISHEK ( DILIP SINGH ( KUMAR SARVESH ( RAJEEV SHARAN ( ) ) ) )

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QUALITY

Ideal condition of excellence.

Product quality is based on a product attribute.
User-based quality is fitness for use, manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements, value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price ISO 9000:2000 Defines it as degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfill requirement.

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Quality inspection in apparel industries: Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required measurements.

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Quality inspection in apparel industries: done to control quality of garments. Checking of fabric, sewing thread, button, stitch, zipper, garments size etc according to required standard or specification is known as inspection. Quality inspection is important for every section of apparel industries.

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Steps in apparel industries to control quality 1. Raw Material Inspection;

2. In Process Inspection;

3. Final Inspection;

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Raw Material Inspection: Fabric Inspection

Sewing Thread Inspection

Trims & Accessories check

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Fabric Inspection
done through Fabric Inspection machine. very important for every industries . In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store room. For those defects it will be problem able for making garments making. In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength, color, quantity To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.

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Fabric Inspection Machine

Overall view of Pernicks Tilt -A- View Machine

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Fabric Inspection Machine

Operational view of Pernicks Tilt -A- View Machine

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Fabric Inspection Machine

Overall view of Pernicks True- Matic Inspection Machine

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Sewing Thread Inspection During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of the great problems for garments manufacturing. So that it is necessary to check thread construction, sewability, color, imperfection, finish, package density, winding, yardage of sewing thread.

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Sewing Thread Inspection In thread construction thread number, thread ply, thread tenacity, thread elongation, number of twist is necessary to check.

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Trims & Accessories check Button, Zippers interlining, label & tags also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required quality. For button, button strength, button color, quantity etc are checked.

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In Process Inspection Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are called in process inspection. It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in process.
marker making fabric spreading fabric cutting sorting/ bundling fabric sewing seam defects assembly defects pressing/ finishing defects

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Marking inspection
Factors which must be checked It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker. In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked Pattern direction should be checked. The entire pattern are sated correctly. Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during marker making. During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate. During marker making fabric length and width should be considered. Marker width Notches & drill marks Knife clearance Checks and stripes (mittering)

Pattern Grading Defects

1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification measurements Finished product not measuring to specified dimension and component parts not fitting in relationship to notches, openings and seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck bands, neck openings and side seams inseams, waist measurements and etc. 2. Distorted Grading: Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams, puckering, pleating and a general uneconomical yardage waste.

Marking defects
1.Shaded Parts:- All component pans not included in same section. 2. Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or pleating. 3. Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component parts. 4. Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern. Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space. 5. Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced. 6. Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or requiring results. 7 Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material. 8. Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match. 9. Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped fabrics.

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Spreading inspection
Factors which must be checked Fabric Nature Ply alignment Ply tension/slackness Bowing Splicing Grain-line Shade variation Selvedge alignment & tightness Fabric width Checks Static electricity

Spreading Defects
1. Uneven Spreading:- Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or back edge of marker not catching all ply. 2. Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover marker width. 3. Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks too long or too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted. 4. Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments. 5. Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow. 6. Misdirected Napping:- Air pockets not removed. Napped material reversed in spreading. 7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face up or face to face as required.

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Cutting inspection
Factors/defects which must be checked Frayed edge Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges Ply to ply fusion Single edge fusion Pattern precision Notches & drillers Cutting Equipment precision

Cutting Defects
1.Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay to catch both edges causing parts to miss in cutting. Too tight or too loose, distorting dimensions of garment. Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show distinct lines, notches and punch marks. 2. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades. 3. Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill used. 4. Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through entire bundle or omitted. 5. Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes. 6. Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted. 7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned. 8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles. 9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.

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Sorting/ Bundling inspection
It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and bundling is done accurately.

Defects. 1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers not in order on rack skid or box. 2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.

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Sewing inspection
Most large & important section. Necessary to check all the machine operators work. Some common faults and problems must be considered
Sewing defects Seaming defects Assembly defects Pressing or Finishing defects

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Sewing inspection Stitching Defects
Needle damage Skipped stitch Thread breaks Seam pucker Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch Staggered stitch Improperly formed stitch

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Stitching Defect Sewing inspection Machine do not run Cause Not plugged in or turned on Outlet switch off. Circuit breakdown.

Machine do not stitch properly

Machine dirty.
Machine incorrectly threaded Needle needs replacement.

Machine does not feed properly

Insufficient or too much pressure on pressure foot Stitch length too short.

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Stitching Defect SkipSewing inspection stitching Cause Machine incorrectly threaded. Machine dirty Needle damage/needle set or threaded incorrectly. Needle makes hole too large or too short

Needle too much fine for thread

Thread tension too tight/ thread stretches when heated. Machine timing needs adjustment Fabric not held properly.

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Stitching Defect Sewing inspection Skip stitching (overedge machines) Cause Loopers are incorrectly set. Needle to looper relation incorrect. Wrong type thread.

Skip stitching (blindstitch machines)

Wavy seams

Stitch-depth too shallow.

Stitch length too short. Pressure too heavy or light

Wavy seams (overedge machine)

Differential feed needs increasing

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Stitching Defect Cause Sewing puckering inspectionLight weight fabric, wash & wear, tightly woven. Seam on straight grain. Fabric not held properly. Thread tension too tight. Needle needs replacing. Thread wrong size for needle/ threads are different on bobbin & needle.

Too heavy pressure on foot.

Wrong stitch length. Wrong seam class choice for material. Puckering (overedge machines) Differential feed needs to be reduced.

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Stitching Defect Cause Sewing inspectionPressure on foot incorrect. Plies feed unevenly Plies lock or stitch together. Pressure foot sticks to material. Garment sections are of different length. Garment sections are cut on different grains. Feed dog at incorrect height or badly worn. Inappropriate pressure-foot. Inappropriate needle plate. Operator not feeding upper layer properly.

Wrong machine- use a needle-feed machine if available.

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Stitching Cause Defect Sewing inspection Unbalanced Different thread on needle & bobbin. tension Thread slipped out of tension disc. Thread not feeding off cone or spool properly Machine dirty. Machine incorrectly threaded Needle needs replacement/ set incorrectly Poor quality of thread (too dry, coarse, fine etc). Thread catches on rough surfaces of thread guide, throat plate or thread spindle. Bent, rusted, or incorrect bobbin/ improperly or unevenly wound bobbin/ bobbin has several layers of thread/bobbin thread out/ bobbin case screw has worked out.

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Stitching Defect Sewing inspection Unbalanced tension (overedge machine) Uneven stitches Cause Looper tension needs adjustment Thread does not feed smoothly/ thread has wrong twist/ thread incorrectly threaded between tension discs. Pressure too light. Burns or rough spots along the path of thread. Operator not feeding properly

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Stitching Defect Cause Sewing inspection Cracked seam Machine dirty. Lint between the tension discs, guides or eyelets

Bobbin or looper thread tension too tight.

Needle too small or wrong point. Inappropriate stitch length for material. Too tight tension. Thread not moving smoothly through guides or eyelets. Thread too large or machine has rough spots or burns. Cracked seam (overedge machine) Looper thread tension too tight.

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Stitching Defect Cause Thread Sewing inspection breakage Poor quality thread/ wrong size of thread. Tension too tight. Needle set improperly. Machine dirty. Machine incorrectly threaded Needle needs replacement.

Pressure bar not down.

Take-up lever not in raised position at the beginning of stitch. Burns on needle eye, throat plate, guides or thread spindle.

Operator pulling fabric during tension/ did not release tension before removal of material.

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Stitching Defect Sewing inspection Thread breakage (overedge machine) Seam grin Cause Needle & looper need adjustment Stitch bight too narrow. Stitch length too short. Thread not set into tension discs properly Tension on needle thread too loose. Seam grin (overlock machine) Wrong stitch type Tension needs adjustment.

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Stitching Cause Sewing inspection Defect Machine jam Machine dirty. Machine incorrectly threaded Needle set incorrectly or damaged. Static electricity pulls fabric into needle hole

Pressure bar not down.

Needle plate hole too large. Threads not held at beginning. Bobbin inserted incorrectly. Pressure foot wrong type and not holding fabric firmly.

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Stitching Defect Cause Sewing of Unthreading inspection Thread end too short. needle Take-up lever not in its highest position. Thread ends not held at beginning of stitch Operator did not chainstitch.

Overedge machine ragged edges, trimmed edges are uneven

Machine noisy

Knives blunt. Knives incorrectly set. Wrong choice of thread for fabric

Machine dirty Damaged machine. Needle dull, bent or set incorrectly

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Stitching Defect Sewing inspection Cause Needle breakage Needle needs replacement/ set incorrectly. Pressure foot too loose. Bobbin or bobbin-case incorrectly set. Operator stitching over pins or zippers. Operator pulling fabric while stitching or without raising pressure foot. Upper tension too tight.

Incorrect size of needle or thread for material.

Fabric too thick. Needle breakage (overedge machine) Needle hitting looper.

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Stitching Defect Cause Sewing inspection Machine dirty. Bobbin thread breakage (lockstitch machine) Improperly threaded machine. Bobbin or bobbin-case incorrectly set. Bobbin tension too tight. Bobbin too full. Thread unevenly wound on bobbin Bobbin screw worked out and catching the thread. Spring on bobbin-case worn to a sharp groove. Burns on throat plate or rotary hook. Bobbin pigtail caught in bobbin-case

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Pressing Defect Iron does not heat. Cause Iron not plugged in or turned on. Boiler not turned on. Circuit breaker or outlet off. Temperature control set too low Iron spits Iron did not heat completely before use. Temperature control set too low. Steam control malfunctioned.

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Sewing inspection Seaming defects:
Uneven width Fault stitch line Back stitch must be given properly Twisting Check or strip matching Seam matching Wrong stitch face side or back side; Thread color shade variation.

Restitched Seams / Broken Stitches Excessive Restitched Seams

MINIMIZING THREAD BREAKAGE: 1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions. (See the Thread Selection Guide and/or Minimizing Thread Breakage & Skipped Stitches); 2) Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments; 3) Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation. (See Machine Maintenance Checklist.); 4) Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

DESCRIPTION: Where a "splice" occurs on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by 1) thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing; or 2) cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (i.e., stone washing).

Open Seam - Seam Failure - Stitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitch line. Caused by 1) Improper stitch for application; 2)Inadequate thread strength for seam; 3) Not enough stitches per inch.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES STITCH: 1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to give greater seam performance. (See the Thread Selection Guide.); 2) Use the proper size thread for the application; 3) For knit fabrics, check for "Stitch Cracking". Stitch Cracking can be caused by any of the following: not enough stitches per inch; improper seam width or needle spacing for application; improper stitch balance; and improper thread selection.

Open Seam - Seam Failure - Fabric

Bartacks Used to Reinforce Fly Seam

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch line is still intact but the yarns in the fabric have ruptured.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES FABRIC: 1)Reinforce stress points with Bartacks. Make sure the bartacks are the proper length and width for the application; 2) Check to make sure the patterns have been designed for proper fit; 3) Make sure the ideal seam construction is being used; 4) Contact your fabric supplier.

Seam Failure - Seam Slippage

Seam Slippage on Rayon Fabric

DESCRIPTION: Where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge. This often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slick surface. Also caused by loosely constructed fabrics.

MINIMIZING SEAM FAILURES SEAM SLIPPAGE: 1) Consider changing the seam construction to a French seam construction; 2)Increase the seam width or width of bite; 3)Optimize the stitches per inch; 4) Contact your fabric supplier.

Needle Cutting on Knits

DESCRIPTION: Where needle holes appear along the stitch line that will eventually turn into a "run". Generally caused by the needle damaging the fabric as it is penetrating the seam.

MINIMIZING NEEDLE CUTTING ON KNITS: 1)Make sure the proper thread size and needle type and size are being used for the fabric 2) Make sure the fabric has been properly stored to prevent drying out and has been finished properly; 3) Check with your fabric manufacturer.

Excessive Seam Puckering - Wovens

DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitchline. Caused by one of the following: 1) Feed Puckering - where the plies of fabric in the seam are not being aligned properly during sewing; 2) Tension Puckering - where the thread has been stretched and sewn into the seam. The thread then causes the seam to draw back and pucker; 3) Yarn Displacement or structural jamming - caused by sewing seams with too large of thread that causes the yarns in the seam to be displaced, giving a puckered appearance.

MINIMIZING EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING: 1)Use the correct thread type and size for the fabric. In many cases, a smaller, higher tenacity thread is required to minimize seam puckering but maintain seam strength 2) Sew with minimum sewing tension to get a balanced stitch; 3) Make sure machines are set up properly for the fabric being sewn; 4) Check for proper operator handling techniques.

Puckered Seams Knits & Stretch Woven

DESCRIPTION: Where the seam does not lay flat after stitching.

SOLUTIONS: 1) If sewing machines are equipped with differential feed, set them properly for the fabric; 2) Use minimum presser foot pressure during sewing; and 3) Observe operator for correct handling techniques. Too much stretching of the fabric by the sewing operator will cause this problem.

Excessive Seam Grin

DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch balance is not properly adjusted (stitch too loose) and you can see the seam opening up. To check for Seam Grin, apply normal seam stress across the seam and then remove the stress. If the seam remains opened, then the seam has too much "grin through".

SOLUTIONS: To correct, readjust the sewing machine thread tensions so that the proper stitch balance is achieved. Too much tension will cause other problems including seam failures ("Stitch Cracking"), excessive thread breakage, and skipped stitches.

Improper Stitch Balance - 301 Lockstitch

DESCRIPTION: Where loops are seen either on the bottomside or topside of the seam. This is particularly evident with different colored needle and bobbin threads. Also, where the stitch is too loose.

SOLUTIONS: 1) Use a quality thread with Consistent frictional characteristics; 2) Properly balance the stitch so that the needle and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the seam. Always start by checking the bobbin thread tension to make sure it is set correctly, so that the minimum thread tension is required to get a balanced stitch.

Improper Stitch Balance - 401 Chainstitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the loops on the bottomside of the seam are inconsistent and do not appear uniform.

SOLUTIONS: 1) Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics; 2) Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam

Improper Stitch Balance - 504 Overedge Stitch

DESCRIPTION: Where the needle loop is not pulled up to the underside of the seam and the"purl" is not on the edge of the seam.

SOLUTIONS: 1) Use a quality thread with consistent frictional characteristics 2) Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper thread is unraveled, the needle loop lays over half way to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam.

Ragged/Inconsistent Edge - Overedge Or Safety stitch Seams

DESCRIPTION: Where the edge of the seam is either extremely "ragged" or "rolls" inside the stitch.

SOLUTIONS: 1) Make sure the sewing machine knives are sharpened and changed often; 2) The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite. In the photo, the trimming knives have been set wider than the "stitch tongue" on the needle plate causing the "ropy" appearance.

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Sewing inspection Assembly defects:
Finished component of not accurate size. Garments not accurate in size. If any design skip to join. Component is not joining in right place. If lining is tight or loose. If parts direction is wrong.

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Sewing inspection Pressing or Finishing:
Fabric burn or burn spot attach with body. Any types of water spot. Color shading occurs because of hot ironing. Button is insecure or broken. Garments are folding accurately. Pocket is pressed smoothly and except fold. Garments shape is accurate.

Stains, Wrinkles, Correct labels, Any thing that detracts from overall appearance

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Sewing inspection

Folding defects

garment is not folded to specification garment not folded with proper material like cardboard, tissues or other material. incorrect pins or folds garment not buttoned label not showing

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Final Inspection
In final inspection generally inspect fully complete garments. Before final inspection there has no chance to check complete garments. It is important from the buyer to finally check. In final inspection normally garments size, form fitting, fabric faults are check.

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DEFECT ZONES A zone- the defects of the garment which is visible when it is packed. B zone- the defects of the garment which is visible when garment is opened flat. C zone- the defects which can be seen when the garment is turned.
A defect in A zone is considered more serious than a defect in B zone A defect in B zone is considered more serious than a defect in C zone and will be categorised accordingly.

Critical defects list

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Garment No-01 (Shirt)

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DEFECT ZONES

Shirt inspection check list

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No
01

Location
Collar Size

Inspect for
Both points are same or not, strip or check is match accurately, stitch, collar flat or not.

02
03 04

Size label is in correct place, and every parts size is correct or not.

Button & button Placed in right place or not, evenness of gap between one button to hole other, stitch is done correctly, are there any broken button or not. Pocket Hem Yoke & shoulder Side seam Cuffs Finished appearance Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket position, size, stitch, stripe or check is match, flat or not.

05
06 07 08 09

Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not, edge free from stitch.
Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch. Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge. Strips or check matching, top stitch, flat or not. Threads edge comes out or not, are there any oil spot or not, fabric fault, color matching, strip matching.

Causes & Remedies

Location
Collar

64
Causes
Pattern mistake Pattern mistake Improper Stitch/seam Improper ticketing & bundling Improper marking Improper measuring & marking Improper stitching/ machine settings Improper inspection Improper measurement/stitching

Defects
Both points are not aligned. strip or check is not match accurately/stitch collar flat or not Incorrect size parts Not placed in right place unevenness of gap between one button to other stitch is done correctly/ extra thread broken button

Remedies
Proper pattern marking Proper mitering Proper folding & stitching Proper ticketing & bundling Proper marking Proper marking Proper setting of machines Replace Proper measurement, marking, & stitch.

Size Button & button hole

Sleeve

Unequal size

Location
Pocket Hem

Defects
Improper positioning & stitch puckering, raw edge.

Causes
Improper marking/stitch Improper machine settings/ fabric type/stitch Machine setting/ workmanship Improper pattern/stitch

Remedies
Proper marking & stitch Proper settings, fabric type & stitch Proper machine setting & workmanship Proper marking & stitch (by aligning edges) Proper marking Folders may be used

Yoke & shoulder Side seam

Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch. Improper pattern matching, stitch, raw edge Strips or check not matching Improper top stitch, not flat

Cuffs

Improper marking. Slippage of back side or improper stitch

Finished appearance

Extra threads edge

strip matching fabric fault Shade variation

Floatation on seam
Improper spreading/marking Improper fabric Inspection etc. Improper spreading

Cut it.
Spread & mark properly Splicing or other fault recovery processes Shade sorting during spreading

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

A zone Defects
1.Collar

66

Defects uneven (edges are not on a straight horizontal line)

Causes Improper marking Operators fault Cutting faults

Remedies Marking should be accurate with proper techniques of stitching Appropriate equipments Proper marking with skilled stitching. Accurate tension over fabric

Unequal dimensions

Improper marking Overstretched fabric

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

A zone Defects
2. Front placket

67

Defects baggy (fullness) at collar.

Causes Improper marking Operators fault

Remedies Marking should be accurate(in terms of measurement & relative positioning of button & buttonholes) with proper techniques of stitching

Button holes are not according to button placement

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

A zone Defects
3. Labels

68

Defects Not placed at (with the reference of centre back)

Causes Improper marking Operators fault

Remedies Marking should be accurate(in terms of measurement & relative positioning of labels & tags) with proper techniques of stitching

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

A zone Defects
4. Pocket

65

Defects Mitering defects

Causes Improper marking Operators fault Cutting faults

Remedies Marking should be accurate with proper techniques of stitching. Appropriate equipments Proper inspection & extra thread should be trimmed. Appropriate equipments should be used to avoid this.

Extra thread

Improper inspection Floated on seam

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

A zone Defects
5. Button holes

70

Defects Extra thread

Causes Improper inspection Floated on the seam

Remedies Inspection should be proper. Appropriate equipments should be used to avoid this. Machine setting should be accurate. Thread should be inspected in terms of tenacity, count, ply, twist etc.

Improper stitch

Inaccurate setting of machine Wrong type of thread

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

B zone Defects

71

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

B zone Defects
1. Armhole

72

Defects Misaligned seam

Causes Improper pattern making & marking

Remedies Pattern should be accurately developed with accurate marking.

Operators fault
Improper stitch (not uniformly distant with armhole seam) Operators fault

Should be aligned with skilled stitching.

Should be done with proper workmanship.

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

B zone Defects
2. Yoke

73

Defects

Causes

Remedies

Mitering defect

Improper marking

Marking should be accurate.

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

B zone Defects
3. Side seam

74

Defects Mitering defect

Causes Improper marking

Remedies Marking should be accurate.

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

C zone Defects
1. Armhole seam

75

Defects
Raw edge Roping (puckering)

Causes
Operators fault. Pattern-making & marking defect

Remedies
Stitching should be proper. Folders/templates may be used. Patterns should be accurately developed with proper marking.

Stitching defect (operators fault-applying too much tension)

Machine fault

Should be done with proper skill & workman ship

Properly check the settings of machine & its components.

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

C zone Defects
2. Side seam slit Defects Raw edge Causes Operators fault. Remedies Stitching should be proper.

76

3. Sleeve placket

Defects
Raw edge

Causes
Operators fault.

Remedies
Stitching should be proper.

Inspection of Sample (Shirt)

C zone Defects
4. Cuff seam

77

Defects Top stitch not covering the back fabric of cuff seam

Causes Operators fault. Slippage of fabric during top stitch.

Remedies Stitching should be proper. Folders/templates may be used.

Analysis of garment 1 as per cutting room defects:

78

shade variation Pieces not symmetrical Misdirected napping

no no -

Improper tension while spreading

Uneven spreading Misplacement of marker while cutting Improper cutting Improper knife sharpening Improper drill and notch marks Incorrect size cutting

no
no yes no no

Analysis of garment 1 as per sewing room defects:

Needle damage Skipped stitch Thread break Seam pucker Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch Oil spots or stains Loose thread Open seam no yes yes yes no no no yes yes

Run off
Improper thread tension Broken stitch Notch exposed

yes
yes yes no

Omission of any part of garment Twisted seam Pieces not aligned Reverse pieces Excessive fullness Uneven edge

yes yes yes no no yes

Ragged edge
Hole Misplaced components Misaligned seam

yes
no yes yes

Analysis of garment 1 as per finishing room defects:

Thread not trimmed Seam tear Inadequate pressing Garment not properly dried Pressing producing shine in fabric Labels not showing Cuts or nicks

yes yes no no no no

Garment No -02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

Location
Collar Size Button & button hole

Inspect for

Remedies

Both points are same or not, accurately Proper marking, stitching stitch, collar flat or not. Size label is in correct place, and every parts size is correct or not Placed in right place or not, evenness of gap between one button to other, stitch is done correctly, are there any broken button or not Pocket upper edge horizontal or not, pocket position, size, stitch, stripe or check is match, flat or not. Stitch, are there any puckering occur or not, edge free from stitch. Stitch, puckering problem, skipped stitch (proper over-lock). Pattern matching, stitch, free from raw edge Proper over-lock. Proper labeling & bundling Proper marking(measurement) & skilled stitching

Pocket

Proper marking for placement & skilled stitch

Hem shoulder Side seam Sleeve hem

Proper tension & skill during stitch Proper skill stitching& use of mobilon tape Avoid excess tension(force) with skilled workmanship. Proper machine settings & skilled stitching

Finished appearance

Threads edge comes out or not, are there any oil spot or not, fabric fault, color matching, strip matching.

Can be avoided during inspection.

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

A zone Defects
1. Front placket

83

Defects
gathering/ looseness at placket

Cause
Fabric stretched during stitching (too much pressure at foot)

Remedies
Set the machine accurately according the knitted fabric & stitch properly

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

A zone Defects
2. Collar

84

Defects
Improper top stitch

Cause
Fabric stretched during stitching (too much pressure at foot) due to lack of proper stitching (operators fault)

Remedies
Set the machine accurately according the knitted fabric & stitch properly Align the seam properly & stitch with skilled workmanship

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

B zone Defects
1. Armhole

85

Defects
Not aligned properly

Cause
Fabric stretched during stitching (too much pressure at foot) due to lack of proper marking/ proper stitching

Remedies
Set the machine accurately according the knitted fabric & stitch properly by proper marking & aligning the seam accurately before stitch

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

C zone Defects
1.Front placket

86

Defects
Raw edges

Cause
Operators fault. Improper inspection

Remedies
Properly inspect the garment & Finish the edges with overlock machines

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

C zone Defects
2. Hem

87

Defects
Raw edges

Cause
Operators fault. Improper inspection

Remedies
Properly inspect the garment & Finish the edges with overlock machines

Garment no-02 (Knitted T-Shirt)

C zone Defects
3. Collar edges

88

Defects
Raw edges (edges not finished properly)

Cause
Operators fault. Improper inspection

Remedies
Properly inspect the garment & Finish the edges with overlock machines

Analysis of garment 2 as per cutting room defects:

89

shade variation Pieces not symmetrical Misdirected napping

no no no

Improper tension while spreading

Uneven spreading Misplacement of marker while cutting Improper knife sharpening Improper drill and notch marks Incorrect size cutting

slight
no no no no no

Analysis of garment 2 as per sewing room defects:

Needle damage Skipped stitch Thread break Seam pucker Wrong stitch density Uneven stitch Oil spots or stains Loose thread Open seam no no no yes no no no no no

Run off
Improper thread tension Broken stitch Notch exposed

no
no no no

Omission of any part of garment Twisted seam

Yes (half moon patch) no

Pieces not aligned

Reverse pieces Excessive fullness Uneven edge Ragged edge Hole Misplaced components Misaligned seam

yes
no no yes yes no no yes

Analysis of garment 2 as per finishing room defects:

Thread not trimmed Seam tear Inadequate pressing Garment not properly dried Pressing producing shine in fabric Incorrect pins or folds in garment Labels not showing Cuts or nicks

yes no no no