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Amigurumi Basic Doll

Design by Beth Webber Revised 8­15­2008; 7­25­2008

Materials:

­Worsted weight 'soft' yarn, one skein body color (MC), one skein underwear color (CC). Use Red Heart Soft, Caron Simply Soft, or Bernat Satin ­Size 8 perle cotton in white and black ­9mm to 12mm pair of animal eyes, or two shank buttons for eyes ­polyester fiberfill ­stitch marker (helps to keep your place in the rows) ­crayon or blush in cheek color ­Size E hook ­Size 9 steel hook

Gauge: 5sc = 1 inch

Finished Size: approximately 9 1/2 inches

Notes: Work the crochet as tightly as possible, to eliminate gaps that the stuffing will show through.

Work in rounds. Do not join rounds unless specifically told to.

BLO = back loops only

Head (begins at the top).

Row 1: With larger hook and MC, ch2, eight sc in second ch from hook. 2: Two sc in each sc around, 16 sc. 3: (Sc in first sc, two sc in next) around, 24 sc. 4: (Sc in first two sc, two sc in next) around, 32 sc. 5: (Sc in first three sc, two sc in next) around, 40 sc. 6: (Sc in first seven sc, two sc in next) around, 45 sc 7­13: Sc in each sc around, 45 sc 14: (Sc in next seven sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 40 sc. 15: (Sc in next six sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 35 sc 16: (Sc in next five sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 30 sc. 17: (Sc in next four sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 25 sc. 18: (Sc in next three sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 20 sc. 19: (Sc in next two sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 15 sc. 20: Sc in each sc around, adding one sc at the end of this round, 16 sc. Fasten off.

Eye Whites: make two

1. With white perle cotton make a slip ring, work 6 sc, 1hdc, 6 dc, 1 hdc in the ring. join. 14 sts

2.

Work (sc in first st, two sc in next) three times; sc in next st, (sc, hdc) in next st, (hdc in next st, two

hdc in next st) two times; hdc in next st, (hdc, sc) in the last st. Fasten off leaving a tail to make an invisible join to the first st.

3. With black perle cotton, sl st in the back loop all around the eye white. Fasten off.

Place the eye white around the shank of the animal eye, then place on the face with the white of the eye below the animal eye.

If using animal eyes, attach them to the front of the face between rounds 11 and 12, leaving eight to ten stitches between the eyes. The eyes should be positioned low on the face and far apart. If using buttons, attach them after the head is stuffed.

Stuff the head very firmly, but be careful not to stretch the stitches so that the stuffing shows. The head should be very round.

Use crayon or blush to add color to the cheeks. Apply crayon, then use a soft cloth to rub the color in and even it out.

Body (begins at the neck edge; leave a long tail to join body to head)

Row 1: With larger hook and MC, ch17, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Join to the first sc with a slip stitch. 16 sc. Do NOT join the rest of the rows, but work in rounds. 2: Two sc in each sc across, 32 sc. 3: Sc in each sc across, at the end of the row, change to CC, 32 sc. 4: Working in BLO for this round, sc in each sc across, 32 sc. 5: Sc in next six sc, (sc next two sc tog) twice, sc in next 12 sc, (sc next two sc tog) twice, sc in last 6 sc, 28 sc (shoulder shaping). 6: (Sc in next five sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 24 sc. 7­11: Sc in each sc around, 24 sc 12: (Sc in next five sc, two sc in next sc) around, 28 sc. 13­15: Sc in each sc around, 28 sc. Note, for attached underwear, work row 14 in the back loops only. 16: (Sc in next two sc, sc next two sc tog) around, 21 sc. 17: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off leaving a long tail to stitch the bottom of the body together.

Flatten the last round of the body such that the shoulders and the bottom seam are in the same plane. Stitch the bottom rounds together to close bottom opening. Stuff the body firmly, but not quite as firm as the head, being careful not to stretch the stitches and allow the stuffing to show.

Ladder stitch the body to the head, adding more stuffing if necessary before closing the opening completely.

Leg, make two (begins at the bottom of the foot)

Row 1: With larger hook and MC, ch2, eight sc in second ch from the hook. 2: Two sc in each sc around, 16 sc. 3: (Sc in first three sc, two sc in next) around, 20 sc.

4­5: Sc in each sc around, 20 sc. 6: Sc in next three sc, (sc next two sc tog) seven times, sc in last three sc, 13 sc.

7: Sc next two sc together, sc in next 11 sc, 12 sc.

8­20: Sc in each sc around, 12 sc. At end of round 20, stuff leg moderately firm, but do not stretch the

stitches. 21: (Sc in next four sc, sc next two tog) twice, 10 sc. 22: Sc in each sc around, Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew leg to body.

such that the toes are perpendicular to the plane of the top leg seam; stitch the leg opening closed.

Stuff foot firmly

Flatten the top of the leg

Stitch both legs to the bottom of the body.

Arms, make two (begins at the tip of the hands)

Row 1: With larger hook and MC, ch2, six sc in second ch from hook. 2: Two sc in each sc around, 12 sc. 3: (Sc in first two sc, two sc in next sc) around, 16 sc. 4: Sc in each sc around, 16 sc. 5: Sc in next two sc, (sc next two sc tog) six times, sc in last two sc, 10 sc. Stuff hand firmly. 6­16: Sc in each sc around, 10 sc. At end of round 16, stuff arm lightly. 17: Sc in next three sc, sc next two sc tog) twice, 8 sc. 18: Sc in each sc around. Leave the top of the arm unstuffed. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew arms to body.

Sew arms to the unused loops of round four of body at the shoulder points. Orient the hands as you like.

After the arms are stitched to the body, with CC join with a sl st in the first unused loop of round four of the body. In each unused loop work (sl st, ch1). Ch4 to cross over the arm and sl st in the next unused loop. This creates the underwear top trim and straps.

Ears

For the right ear, with MC and leaving a tail to shape the ear, join yarn to side of head at the eye line and directly above the shoulder point with a sc. Dc in same stitch; work two dc around the next bar down toward the shoulder point; work dc, sc in the next bar down toward the shoulder point. Fasten off, leaving a tail to shape the ear.

For the left ear, join yarn to the side of the head three rows down from the eyeline and directly above the shoulder point. Repeat the directions for the right ear, working toward the top of the head.

Thread the yarn tails into the head to curve the ears toward the face. Lose the ends in the back of the

head.

Add eyebrows and a mouth as you please.

Nekomimi (Cat) Ears: worsted yarn and size E and F hook. Make an inner and and outer ear for each ear. Make the inner first with skin tone yarn, then the outer in hair or fur yarn. Use E hook for inner ear, F hook for outer ear.

1. Ch2, 3sc in second ch from hook, ch1, turn. 3sc

2. Increase 1 sc, this row, ch1, turn. 4sc

3. Increase 1 sc this row, ch1, turn. 5sc

4. Increase 2 sc this row, ch1, turn. 7sc

5­6. Sc in each sc across. At the end of row 6 ch1, do not turn.

Sc in the end of each row to the tip of the ear, work (sc, ch1, sc) in ch at the tip of the ear, sc in the end of each row to base of ear. for inner ear, fasten off leaving a long tail (to sew to head)

Work outer ear with F hook, same as for inner ear except do not fasten off when finished with ear. Hold ears together and sc the inner ear to the outer ear. At the ear tip work (sc, ch2, sc in top of the sc just made), continue crocheting ears together. Finish off and sew to head with the length of yarn from the inner ear.

Bear Ears: worsted yarn, E hook. Work an inner and an outer ear for each ear.

Inner ear

1. Ch4, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, ch1, turn. 3sc.

2. 2sc in first sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in last sc, ch1, turn. 5sc

3. Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn. 5sc

4. skip first sc, sc in next two sc, skip next sc, sc in last sc, ch1. 3sc

5. Turn work so you are working in the ends of the rows, sc in end of each row, each ch across the top

of the ear, and each row on the opposite side of the ear. Finish off.

Outer ear Work the same as for the inner ear but do not fasten off at the end. Hold the inner and outer ears together and sc them together. Leave a long tail to stitch the ear to the head.

Design by Beth Webber Revised 8­15­2008; 7­25­2008

Hair

All hair styles start with a basic wig cap. Using worsted weight yarn, preferably 100% wool or mohair and a G hook, work rounds 1­12 of the head. Check for fit and add or subtract rounds as necessary. Fasten off when finished, leaving a long tail to running stitch the wig cap to the head

To this wig cap you can crochet loop stitches for bangs (before stitching the cap to the head), or crochet them all the way around for a simple, curly style.

You can crochet a chain for a center part (use F hook, you'll need about 25 ch), and hook 15" strands into both side of the chain (for 25 ch you'll need 50 strands). Stitch the center part to the wig cap and make pigtails or ponytails.

Or hook long strands into the last three rows of the cap for an easy, long style. There are many other possibilities.

Design by Beth Webber Revised 8­15­2008; 7­25­2008