C O N T E N T S

I3

I.

Ess

E N T I A L F L A V O R S OF 2. 3. SALADS AND

THE MEXICAN KITCHEN STARTERS SOUPS n5 FARE 213

75

I5

OTHER

LIGHT AND HEARTY

4. 5.

TACOS,

ENCHILADAS BEAN,

AND OTHER RICE FIESTA AND

CASUAL EGG

141

VEGETABLE, 6.

DISHES 273

CLASSIC 7. 8.

FOOD 3 11 387

MAIN DISHES D ESS ERTS

9.

WINE
S O

AND MARGARITAS
U R C E S 4 2 5

419

4 2 8

4 2 9

ESSENTIAL SIMMERED TOMATO JALAPENO SAUCE

Salsa de Jitomate Cocida
cyOU CAN TASTE the sear and sizzle in every spoonful of this well-known classic. Here the roasty sweetness of charred tomatoes and blistered chiles are all blended to a rough puree and seared in a hot pan. But why does tradition dictate that we go to the fuss of roasting and frying when a comforting sauce of canned tomatoes (perhaps with the familiar touch of tomato paste) could be slow-simmered with a little diced jalapeno? Because we want the earthy gustiness of Mexico here, not the slow-simmered sweetness of a typical pizza sauce. We're talking inimitable huevos rancheros of energetic tomato-doused sunnyside-up eggs on toasty corn tortillas. Choose plum tomatoes for a thicker texture, round tomatoes for a lighter, brothier consistency. This sauce is so versatile you can substitute it for any tomato sauce called for in this

book.
M A K E S 4 CUPS

Generous 1 pound (about 2 large round, 8 to 10 plum) tomatoes 1 to 2 (about 3A ounce total) fresh jalapeno chiles, stemmed 1 tablespoon vegetable oil or richtasting lard

Vi small (about 2 ounces) white onion, thinly sliced 1V2 cups chicken broth Salt, about 1 l/i teaspoons, depending on the saltiness of the broth

1. Roasting the tomatoes and chiles. Roast the tomatoes and chiles on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler until blistered and blackened on 1 side, about 6 minutes, then use tongs or a spoon to turn them over and roast the other side. Cool, then peel the tomatoes, collecting all the juices. Roughly chop the chiles. Coarsely puree the tomatoes (with juices) and the chiles in a food processor or blender. Pulse the mixture only a few times leaving it quite chunky for huevos rancheros, for instance, or run the machine until the sauce is quite smooth if you're preparing, say, enchiladas. 2. Cooking the sauce. In a medium (8- to 9-inch) deep, heavy skillet or medium-size (2- to 3-quart) saucepan heat the oil or lard over medium. A d d the onion and fry until browned, about 10 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, and, when very hot, add the tomatochile mixture. Stir for 5 minutes or so as the mixture sizzles, darkens and thickens, then reduce the heat to medium-low, stir in the broth and let the sauce cook at a gentle simmer for about 15 minutes, until beginning to thicken (though it shouldn't be as thick as spaghetti sauce). Taste and season with salt and it's ready to use.
18 / R I C K B A Y L E S S ' S M E X I C A N K I T C H E N

A D V A N C E P R E P A R A T I O N T h i s useful sauee can be made several days in advance; it can be frozen successfully but may need to be boiled briefly to look as it did before freezing. SHORTCUTSThree-quarters of a 28-ounce can of tomatoes can replace the fresh ones. O T H E R C H I L E S Y O U C A N U S E T h e same quantity of serranos can replace the jalapefios, as can Vi to 1 habanero chile.
T R A D I T I O N A L D I S H E S T H A T U S E T H I S E S S E N T I A L AS A S T A R T I N G P O I N T

Spicy Tomato-Sauced Enchiladas (page 176)

SIMPLE IDEAS FROM M Y A M E R I C A N H O M E

H u e v o s R a n c h e r o s Steam-heat (page 145) 8 corn tortillas. Fry 8 eggs sunny-side up. O n each of 4 plates, slide 2 eggs onto 2 slightly overlapping warm tortillas, liberally spoon the sauce over everything, then sprinkle with sliced raw onion, chopped cilantro and a little crumbled Mexican queso fresco, queso anejo or Parmesan. Layered Tortilla-T^icotta Casserole Steam-heat 12 tortillas (page 145), smear a little of the sauce over a baking dish, then make 4 "stacks" in the dish: Spread out 4 tortillas, spoon 3 tablespoons of rieotta (seasoned with salt) onto each, sprinkle with some sauteed mushrooms or grilled vegetables and some chopped cilantro or fresh thyme, splash with a little sauce, then repeat the layers of tortilla, rieotta, mushrooms (or vegetables) and sauce. Finish each stack with a tortilla. Spoon sauce on to cover the tortilla well, sprinkle with grated Chihuahua or other melting cheese and bake until they're bubbly and brown. Seared Jalapeno ISeef TipsMake the sauce with heel stock il you have it. In a large, heavy skillet filmed with oil, sear about 1 ]A pounds ol beef sirloin or other steak (cut into 1-inch cubes) over medium-high heat until browned on all sides. Add 2 cups of the sauce, then briskly boil until slightly reduced and the meat is as done as you like it.

ESSENTIAL FLAVORS OF T H E M E X I C A N K I T C H E N

19

OAXACAN BLACK MOLE

JYlole J\eqro

WITH BRAISED C H I C K E N Uaxaaueho

< # 'D VENTURE TO SAY that anyone who has traveled to Oaxaca, the beautifully preserved

colonial city in Southern Mexico, has eaten black mole at least once. It is the regional specialtyon every restaurant menu, at every fiesta. A n d , quite expectedly, not all black moles are crafted equally. At the touristy zocalo ("central square') restaurants, it is a lacqueredlooking blackness (ever seen drying tar?) that's all sweetness, burn and chocolate. At Abigail Mendoza's now-famous Tlalmanalli restaurant in Teotitlan del Valle, its near-blackness draws you into the layers of complexity, the perfect piquancy, the delicately balanced dulcet char of real mole negro. Her version is what dreams are made of. Black mole has to be the star of the meal, so serve it simply with a spoonful of Classic White Rice (page 251you may want to add a little diced cooked carrot and zucchini to the rice as Abigail does) and plenty of hot tortillas. In summer, I'd work hard to locate squash blossoms for Golden Squash Blossom Crema (page 138) or serve Mushroom-Cactus Soup (page 128) to start. Dessert should stay classic and Oaxacan like Mango-Lime Ice (page 393) or Tropical "Trifle" of Mango and Almonds (page 396). Even in Oaxaca, chilhuacle chiles are expensive and not always available, so folks have learned to make black mole with 6 ounces mulato, 2 b o u n c e s pasilla, 1 ounce guajillo and 1 chipotle. For years I collected black mole recipes that yielded mediocre results to the point that I just wouldn't offer it at our restaurants. Not until my favorite chile seller, Panchita, in the Oaxaca market really explained the details and her proportions could I get it right. Here's what she taught me.

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S E R V E S 8 (WITH A B O U T 10 C U P S O F S A U C E , W H I C H W I L L M E A N L E F T O V E R S TO M A K E E N C H I L A D A S OR M O R E C H I C K E N W I T H )

11 medium (about 5 Vi ounces) dried mulato chiles 6 medium (about 2 ounces) dried chilhualces chiles 6 medium (about 2 ounces) dried pasilla chiles 1 dried chipotle chile (preferably the tan-brown chipotle meco) 1 corn tortilla, torn into small pieces 2 lA-inch-thick slices of white onion 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled About 2 cups rich-tasting lard or vegetable oil (for frying the chiles) ] /2 cup sesame seeds, plus a few extra for garnish l A cup pecan halves l A cup unskinned or Spanish peanuts l A cup unskinned almonds About 10 cups chicken broth (canned or homemade, page 137) 1 pound (2 medium-large or 6 to 8 plum) green tomatoes, roughly chopped

4 ounces (2 to 3 medium) tomatillos, husked, rinsed and roughly chopped 2 slices stale bread, toasted until very dark l A teaspoon cloves, preferably freshly ground V2 teaspoon black pepper, preferably freshly ground l /2 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably freshly ground Mexican canela A scant teaspoon oregano, preferably Mexican l /2 teaspoon dried thyme V2 ripe banana Vi cup (about 3 ounces) finely chopped Mexican chocolate 2 or 3 avocado leaves (if you have them) Salt, about 1 tablespoon, depending on the saltiness of the broth Sugar, about lA cup (or a little more) 2 large (3l/2- to 4-pound) chickens, cut into quarters

1. Getting started. Pull out the stems (and attached seed pods) from the chiles, tear them open, and shake or scrape out the seeds, collecting them as you go. Now, do something that will seem very odd: Scoop the seeds into an ungreased mediumsize (8- to 9-inch) skillet along with the torn-up tortilla, set over medium heat, turn on an exhaust fan, open a window and toast your seeds and tortilla, shaking the pan regularly, until burned to charcoal black, about 15 minutes. (This is very important to the flavor and color of the mole.) Now, scrape them into a fine-mesh strainer and rinse for 30 seconds or so, then transfer to a blender. Set an ungreased skillet or griddle over medium heat, lay on a piece of aluminum foil, and lay the onion slices and garlic cloves on that. Roast until soft and very dark (about 5

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minutes on each side of the onion slices; about 15 minutes for the garlicturn it frequently as it roasts). Cool the garlic a bit, peel it and combine with the onion in a large

bowl.
While the onion and garlic are roasting, turn on the oven to 350 degrees (for toasting nuts), return the skillet to medium heat, measure in a scant 2 cups of the lard or oil (you'll need about i^-inch depth), and, when hot, begin frying the chiles a couple at a time: they'll unfurl quickly, then release their aroma and piquancy (keep that exhaust on and window open) and, after about 30 seconds, have lightened in color and be well toasted (they should be crisp when cool, but not burnt smelling). Drain them well, gather them into a large bowl, cover with hot tap water, and let rehydrate for 30 minutes, stirring regularly to ensure even soaking. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid. While the chiles are soaking, toast the seeds and nuts. Spread the sesame seeds onto a baking sheet or ovenproof skillet, spread the pecans, peanuts and almonds onto another baking sheet or skillet, then set both into the oven. In about 12 minutes the sesame seeds will have toasted to a dark brown; the nuts will take slightly longer. A d d all of them to the blender (reserving a few sesame seeds for garnish), along with 1 Vi cups of the chicken broth and blend to as smooth a puree as you can. Transfer to a small bowl. Without rinsing the blender, combine the green tomatoes and tomatillos with another l/i cup of the broth and puree. Pour into another bowl. Again, without rinsing the blender, combine the onion and garlic with the bread, cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, oregano, thyme, banana and 3A cup broth. Blend to a smooth puree and pour into a small bowl. Finally, without rinsing the blender, scoop in half of the chiles, measure in Vi cup of the soaking liquid, blend to a smooth puree, then pour into another bowl. Repeat with the remaining chiles and another Vi cup of the soaking liquid. 2. From four purees to mole. In a very large (8- to 9-quart) pot (preferably a Dutch oven or Mexican cazuela), heat 3 tablespoons of the lard or oil (some of what you used for the chiles is fine) and set over medium-high heat. W h e n very hot, add the tomato puree and stir and scrape for 15 to 20 minutes until reduced, thick as tomato paste, and very dark (it'll be the color of cinnamon stick and may be sticking to the pot in places). A d d the nut puree and continue the stirring and scraping until reduced, thick and dark again (this time it'll be the color of black olive paste), about 8 minutes. Then, as you guessed, add the banana-spice puree and stir and scrape for another 7 or 8 minutes as the whole thing simmers back down to a thick mass about the same color it was before you added this one. Add the chile puree, stir well and let reduce over medium-low heat until very thick and almost black, about 30 minutes, stirring regularly (but, thankfully, not constantly). Stir in the remaining 7 cups of broth, the chocolate and avocado leaves (if you have them), partially cover and simmer gently for about an hour. Season with salt and sugar (remembering that sugar helps balance the dark, toasty flavors). Remove the avocado leaves.

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In batches in a loosely covered blender, puree the sauce until as smooth as possible, then pass through a medium-mesh strainer into a large bowl. 3. Finishing the dish. Return the mole to the same pot and heat it to a simmer. Nestle the leg-and-thigh quarters of the chicken into the bubbling black liquid, partially cover and time 15 minutes, then nestle in the breast quarters, partially cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, until all the chicken is done. With a slotted spoon, fish out the chicken pieces and transfer them to a large warm platter. Spoon a generous amount of the mole over and around them, sprinkle with the reserved sesame seeds, and set triumphantly before your lucky guests. A D V A N C E PREPARATIONThe mole can be completed through step 2 several days ahead (it gets better, in fact); cover and refrigerate. Complete step 3 shortly before serving.

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