P. 1
Irresistible dessert recipe: Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies

Irresistible dessert recipe: Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies

4.24

|Views: 680|Likes:
Publicado porSimon and Schuster
From the James Beard Award Winning cookbook, Bakewise, try for yourself these delectable Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies. Shirley O. Corriher explains the HOWS and WHYS of successful baking, including using shortening to limit the cookie's spread!
From the James Beard Award Winning cookbook, Bakewise, try for yourself these delectable Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies. Shirley O. Corriher explains the HOWS and WHYS of successful baking, including using shortening to limit the cookie's spread!

More info:

Categories:Types, Recipes/Menus
Publish date: Oct 28, 2008
Added to Scribd: Apr 30, 2012
Copyright:Traditional Copyright: All rights reserved

Availability:

Read on Scribd mobile: iPhone, iPad and Android.
Buy the full version from:AmazonBarnes & Noble
download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
See more
See less

08/21/2013

pdf

text

original

BAKE WISE

The Hows and Whys of Successful Baking with over 200 Magnificent Recipes

Shirley O. Corriher

SCRIBNER

New York London Toronto Sydney

Introduction
My goal in BakeWise is to give you tools—information that you can use to make not just successful baked goods, but outstanding baked goods. And in BakeWise, I strive to give you the information that you need to get the product that you want. Many times in cooking there is not a right or a wrong but simply a difference. For example, some people like fudgy brownies, some want cakey brownies, some want a crust on brownies, others want minimum crust. My goal is to explain what ingredient or technique produces these characteristics—reduce the flour in the brownie recipe to make it fudgy, beat vigorously with a mixer after you add the eggs to the batter for more crust. I come from a science background (I was a research chemist for the Vanderbilt Medical School). I think it is fascinating that many times master bakers’ directions follow almost exactly what the science texts say. For example, Chef Roland Mesnier, the White House executive pastry chef for twenty-five years—his directions for beating the egg-sugar mixture for a génoise are “right on” what the science texts’ directions are for making the most stable foam. Chef Roland cautions that reducing the speed when you are whipping the eggs is vital, because lengthy whipping at high speed produces large air bubbles, which will rise to the surface and pop during baking and produce a heavy cake. It is the same principle as overleavening a shortened cake. Roland’s beating times are 5 minutes on high and 12 minutes on medium, until the foam is completely cool, thick, and shiny. Science texts say beating on high produces larger bubbles, medium speed is ideal for a stable foam, and that, as beating time is extended, the stability of the foam increases. Pastry chef Paul Prosperi at The Culinary Institute of America gives students a clear example of why they should use medium speed and lengthy beating for a génoise. In Baking Boot Camp, Darra Goldstein describes Chef Paul showing the students how to observe the foam during beating. When beating on high, eventually the foam falls, and the same happens when beating on low. But when beating on medium, the foam remains high regardless of the beating time. Other things that I get excited about are finding something that is really helpful—like how to read the label on baking powder to tell when it will release bubbles in baking (immediately after it is stirred into the batter or dough, after a few minutes, or in the hot oven). I definitely don’t want a baking powder that makes 100% of the bubbles instantly. If I am doing several things at once and am slow getting the cake in the oven, or if I get interrupted by a phone call, I may lose most of my leavening.
1

I could never remember long chemical names, so I make a list of the acids that I want in a baking powder before I go to the store. I use the guidelines on page 47, which shows when each acid releases a specific percentage of bubbles for eight different acids used in baking powder. And I see that I want a baking powder that contains one or more of the following acids: monocalcium phosphate, sodium acid pyrophosphate, or sodium aluminum phosphate. Most of these release bubbles at all three stages.

Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies
Makes about 21⁄ 2 dozen cookies

This is a family favorite, a slightly more elegant oatmeal cookie. I love the flavor combination of bourbon, pecans, and brown sugar. My daughter-in-law, the opera singer Beth McCool, says that when there are friends around and she makes these, the cookies are gone before they can even cool.

What This Recipe Shows
Roasting enhances the flavor of nuts. Processing the oats in a food processor makes a slightly smoother texture. Using shortening limits the cookie’s spread.

380

B AKE W ISE

2 cups (7 oz/198 g) pecans 1⁄ 2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 oz/142 g) unsalted butter, divided 1 teaspoon (6 g) salt, divided 1 cup (3 oz/85 g) old-fashioned or quick-cooking oats 1⁄ 4 cup (1.6 oz/45 g) butter-flavored shortening 1 cup (7.7 oz/218 g) light brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon (15 ml) pure vanilla extract 2 tablespoons (30 ml) bourbon 2 tablespoons (30 ml) heavy cream 1 large egg (1.75 oz/50 g) 11⁄ 4 cups (5.5 oz/156 g) spooned and leveled bleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon (5 g) baking soda 1 teaspoon (2 g) ground cinnamon 1⁄ 2 teaspoon (1 g) freshly grated nutmeg Nonstick cooking spray, optional

1. Arrange a shelf in the center of the oven and preheat to 350ºF/177ºC. 2. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. While they are hot, stir in 2 tablespoons (1 oz/28 g) of the butter and sprinkle with 1⁄ 4 teaspoon (1.5 g) of the salt. When cool,

coarsely chop and set aside.
3. Process the oats in a food processor with the steel blade for about 10 seconds. 4. With a mixer, in a bowl, beat the remaining 1⁄ 2 cup (4 oz/113 g) butter, the shortening, and sugar

until light and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla, bourbon, and cream. Add the egg and beat just to blend.
5. In a mixing bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, the remaining 3⁄ 4 teaspoon (4.5 g) salt, the

cinnamon, and nutmeg. On the lowest speed, add flour mixture into butter mixture in several portions. Stir in the oats and pecans by hand.
6. Cover a baking sheet with Release foil (nonstick side up) or parchment sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. Drop by heaping tablespoons or with a 11⁄ 2-inch (#40) ice cream scoop onto the bak-

ing sheet. Bake one sheet at a time for about 10 minutes, until puffy and lightly browned on the edges. Allow to cool on the sheet for 2 minutes, and then remove to a cooling rack.

As the Cookie Crumbles

381

Index
A
acesulfame K, 77, 78 acid(s) in baking powder, 46 with baking soda, 46 buffers in cream and, 65 leavening, reaction times of, 47 acidic ingredients, 64–67 with baking soda, 49 cocoa powder as, 109, 427 in flourless cakes, 64–67 list of, 68 in pastry crusts, 355 protein cooking speed and, 355, 393, 399 setting of cakes and, 61, 64, 65, 110 spread of cookies and, 404, 427 active dry yeast, 477, 478 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Alberger process, 481–482 alitame, 77, 78 all-purpose flour bleached vs. unbleached, 60 characteristics of, 60 in cookies, 385 Gold Medal, 60, 62, 63 King Arthur, 82, 461, 477, 478 Northern specialty blended, 372, 377, 385 protein content of, 372, 376–377 quantity and weight measures of, 31, 495 Southern. See Southern allpurpose flour Southwestern, 372, 385 allspice, quantity and weight measures of, 497 almond(s) Croustade, 281–282 Financiers, 230–231 Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut Paste, 291 Hazelnut-Almond Meringue Layers with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 178–180 Hazelnut-Almond Soft Dacquoise, 180–181 Heavenly Mocha HazelnutAlmond Meringue Cake, 182 Lace Cookies, 378 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 Take-Your-Breath-Away Lemon Pound Cake, 25–27 almond bark, 90 almond flour Financiers, 230–231 quantity and weight measures of, 495 Simplified La Joconde, 234–235 alpha-amylase inactivation of, 335 thinning of dishes with egg yolks and, 110, 335 alternative nutritive sweeteners, 76 amaretti cookies The Creamiest Ever Amaretto Cheesecake, 333–335 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, 312–314 amaretto liqueur The Creamiest Ever Amaretto Cheesecake, 333–335 ammonium bicarbonate in cookies, 402 for pâte à choux, 243 angel food cakes, 217–219 ingredients for, 218 Mimi’s Magnificent Angel Food Cake, 218–219 proportions for, 217 techniques for, 218 angel pies, 183, 279 antioxidants in cocoa powder, 111 apples Bill Greenwood’s Great Dome with a Braided Base, 327–328 Croustade, 281–282 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut Muffins, 129–131 dried. See dried apples Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 308 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Glory Muffins, 80–81 Turkey Filling, 258 applesauce Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 51–52 Shirley’s Version of Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 54–55 apricots Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, 253 artificial sweeteners, 77–81 ascorbic acid in bread, 432, 480 ash in flour, 476 aspartame, 77, 78 at-a-glance summary charts chemical leaveners, 59 chocolate, 108 cocoa powder, 117 color, 424 cookie problems, 424, 425

Index

511

at-a-glance summary charts (cont.) creaming cake mixing method, 123 egg-white foams, 194 fat in cookies, 392 fine-tuning cookies, 428 flour in cookies, 385 génoise, 228 meringues, 194 pastry crusts, 309 pâte à choux, 262 soufflés, 208 sugar in cookies, 397 whipped cream, 321 autolysis, 435–441

B
bacteria in bread dough, 434, 479–480 baguettes Baguettes Made with Poolish, 448–450 flour for, 62 slashes for, 442 Straight Dough with Autolysis Baguettes, 436–438 Baker, Harry, 231 baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36, 238 for roulade, 238 baker’s percentages, 32, 34, 432 for biga, 452, 455 for cakes, 32, 34–35 for poolish, 448 for straight dough with autolysis, 436 baker’s sugar, 168 baker’s yeast, 477–479 action of, 442 active dry, 477, 478 baking powder with, 480 care of, 478 conversions for, 478 food for, 478 fresh (cake), 477, 478 instant (RapidRise, Quick-Rise), 477, 478, 496 order of adding to bread dough, 485 pre-ferments with, 447–459 quantity and weight measures of, 496 spices and, 479, 480

spreading by folding dough, 441 temperature and, 434, 478–479 bakeware, 6 baking rings, 294 changing size of pans, 49, 128 cookie sheets, 374, 420 muffin pan sizes and, 128 pans for pound cakes, 15 for pastry crusts, 293–294 springform pan sizes, 271 baking bread, 443 brownies, at high temperature, 410 cakes. See baking cakes cookies, 374, 420, 424 génoise, 223 high-altitude, 50, 110 meringues, 191 pâte à choux, 244 pies. See baking pies baking cakes, 135–140 baking stones for, 2, 4–5, 135 determining doneness and, 136 rise and, 135 shape and, 136–140 texture and, 136 baking chocolate, 86 baking pies, 323–328 blind, 294, 325–326 double-crusted pies, 327 with filling in, 323–325 baking powder, 46 amount of, 56 brands of, 46 changing pan size and, 49 checking potency of, 48 composition of, 46 in cookies, 402, 404 double-acting, 46 flour type with, 57 leavening process and, 46–47 making one’s own, 48 quantity and weight measures of, 496 baking rings, 294 baking sheets, 374, 420 baking soda, 46 with acid ingredients, 46 alkalizing cocoa powder with, 111 amount of, 48–57, 55–57 checking potency of, 48 in cookies, 402–403 flour type with, 57

leavening process and, 46–47 quantity and weight measures of, 496 baking stones, 2, 4–5 for bread, 443 for cakes, 135 for pâte à choux, 244 position for, 4–5 rise and, 135, 443 bananas Moist Banana Nut Bread, 137–138 barley flour, malted, in bread, 432 barley malt syrup, 477 bar sugar, 168 bâtards Straight Dough with Autolysis Bâtards, 438–439 beading of meringues, 189 beaters for egg whites, 167 beating after adding eggs, crust created on cookies and brownies by, 409–410, 423 beating egg whites, 166–167 copper bowl for, 172 cream of tartar for, 172 overbeating, 167 Beauchamp, Gary, 407 beef Piroshkis, 362–363 in Turkey Filling, 258 beet sugar, 146 Bennion, E. B., on amount of yolks for génoise, 220 Beranbaum, Rose Levy on baking powder amounts, 49 on cake mixing methods, 126 flour preference of, 63 on pâte à choux, 242–243 on sizes of pastry crusts, 293 on surface for rolling pastry, 287 berry sugar, 168 biga, 452–459 baker’s percentages for, 452, 455 Basic Dough Made with Biga, 456 Biga, 452–453 Biga (50% Water), 455 Ciabatta with Biga, 453–454 Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 Fougasse with Biga, 457–458 biscuits, 151–154. See sponge cakes Shirley Corriher’s “Touch-ofGrace” Southern Biscuits, 152–153

512

Index

bitterness, suppression of, by salt, 345, 407, 481 bittersweet chocolate, 86, 87 black pepper, quantity and weight measures of, 497 bleached flour, characteristics of, 62 blending cake mixing method, 126–127 blind-baking pastry crusts, 294, 325–326 right-side up, 326 upside down, 326 blueberries Blueberries and Cream Muffins, 131–132 Blueberries with Honey Mascarpone Cream in Walnut-Oat Meringue, 183–184 Chef Heather Hurlbert’s Magnificent Moist Whipped Cream Pound Cake, 20–21 cooking for pies, 311 Judy Brady’s Blueberries and Bordeaux, 269–271 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Bob’s Red Mill’s dark rye flour, 460 Bordeaux cookies Bordeaux Macadamia Crust, 268–269 Judy Brady’s Blueberries and Bordeaux, 269–271 Boston cream pie Shirley’s Boston Cream Pie, 43 boules Rustic Boules Made with Poolish, 450–452 Sourdough Rustic Boules, 466–467 bourbon Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies, 380–382 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 Lane Cake Filling, 45 Lane Cake Soaking Solution, 45 bread(s). See also quick breads; sourdough starters; yeast breads in Simply Wonderful Strata— Browned Billows of Cheesy Puff, 201

bread crumbs, for dry, crisp pastry crust, 304–305 bread flour in cookies, 385 for pâte à choux, 242 protein content of, 372, 469 quantity and weight measures of, 495 bread-making methods, 444–467 pre-ferments with baker’s yeast, 447–459 sourdough starters (wild yeast levain), 459–467 straight dough, 435–441, 444–446 bread-making techniques, 432–468 autolysis, 435–441 baking, 443 dough temperature and, 434–435 folding vs. punching down, 441 kneading, 433, 479–480 rounding (preshaping), 441–442 slashing, 442 brioche The Ultimate Brioche I: Light, Airy, Bread-Like Brioche, 486–487 The Ultimate Brioche II: Buttery, Cake-Like Brioche, 488–489 brownies, 407–416 allowing batter to mellow before baking and, 410 brown sugar in, 415 cake-like vs. fudge-like, 410 chocolate for, 414–415 cocoa powder in, 415 crust on, 409 cutting, 410 firm vs. soft, 415 high-temperature baking of, 410 history of, 408 ingredients in, 407 Shirley’s Cakey Brownies, 413–414 Shirley’s Fudgy Brownies, 411–412 sugar in, 415–416 Super Rich Espresso Brownies, 415–416 browning artificial sweeteners and, 79 of cookies, 392, 404, 423, 424

corn syrup and, 79, 392, 397, 423 fat and, 392 leaveners and, 404, 423 protein in flour and, 423 sugar and, 73, 392 brown sugar, 76, 77 in brownies, 415 in cookies, 397 hygroscopic nature of, 393, 397, 423 quantity and weight measures of, 495 spread of cookies and, 393 building sourdough starters, 466–467 bulk, sugar and, 73 Bundt pan for pound cakes, 15 butter Buttery Jelly-Jeweled Cookies, 386–387 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 color of cookies and, 392 combining egg-white foams with, for buttercreams, 209, 210 in cookies, 384, 392, 426 for crumb crusts, 268 cutting for pastry crusts, 301–302 Diamond-Edged Melt-in-YourMouth Butter Cookies, 388–389 fat content of, 346 flavor of, 350 ganache with, 98–99 for génoise, 221 leavening and, 69–70 quantity and weight measures of, 496 for snail butter, 259 spread of cookies and, 384, 426 temperature of, for creaming cake mixing method, 122 type used in this book, 6 buttercream(s), 208–217 crème anglaise (custard-based), 215–217 curdling of, 210 as emulsions, 210 French, 210, 213–215 ingredients for, 208–209 Swiss and Italian, 209–213 techniques for, 209

Index

513

buttercream icings, 145–150 Basic Confectioners’ Sugar Buttercream, 148–149 Crusting Confectioners’ Sugar Buttercream, 149–150 smoothing, 146, 149, 150 buttermilk with baking soda, 49 color of pastry crusts made with, 355 curdling of, 35 Greenwood’s Great Buttermilk Crust, 347–349 tenderness of pastry crusts made with, 355 butter slicers, 301

C
cake(s) angel food. See angel food cakes bad recipes for, spotting, 32 baker’s formulas for, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36, 238 baker’s percentages for, 32, 34–35 baking. See baking cakes balancing recipes for, 12–13 chocolate. See chocolate cakes creating recipes for, 32, 34–36 Dinner-on-the-Grounds Coconut Cake, 40–41 eggless, 82–85 flourless, 64–67 foam. See angel food cakes; chiffon cakes; génoise; sponge cakes French Cake aux Fruits, 139–140 goals for different types of, 32 Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, 71–72 Hazelnut-Almond Meringue Layers with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 178–180 Hazelnut-Almond Soft Dacquoise, 180–181 Heavenly Mocha HazelnutAlmond Meringue Cake, 182 high-ratio, 30–31, 69, 124 intentionally underdone, 136 lean (regular shortened), 30 leaveners for. See baking

powder; baking soda; chemical leaveners Magnificent Moist Golden Cake (Creaming Method), 124–126 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake (Dissolved-Sugar Method), 37–38 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake (Two-Stage Method), 126–127 mixing methods for. See cake mixing methods moist, using formulas to create, 32, 34–36 Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 51–52 pound. See pound cake(s) Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 Serious Stuff Gingerbread, 84–85 Shirley’s Boston Cream Pie, 43 Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 Shirley’s Not-the-Traditional Lane Cake, 44–45 Shirley’s Version of Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 54–55 slicing into layers, 39 sponge. See sponge cakes storing, 54, 150 testing for doneness, 136 variations in composition of ingredients for, 31 wrapping, 150 cake flour, 30 acidity of, 68 baker’s formulas with, 30 characteristics of, 60–61 chlorination of, 30, 61 in cookies, 385 flavor and, 61, 343 for génoise, 220–221 leavening with, 57 protein content of, 372 quantity and weight measures of, 31, 495 texture and, 61 cake levelers, 39 cake mixing methods, 119–135 creaming (sugar/batter, sugarshortening, or conventional), 120–126 dissolved-sugar, 77, 134

emulsion, 135 goals of, 119 to incorporate fine bubbles into batter, 119 lightness and, 120 muffin, 57–58, 129–134. See also muffin(s) single-stage (dump, one-bowl, or quick-mix), 128 sugar/flour batter, 135 texture and, 120 two-stage (blending or pastry blend), 126–127 cake yeast, 477, 478 Calvel, Raymond, on lecithin in bread, 480 candied fruit French Cake aux Fruits, 139–140 cane sugar, 146 carbon dioxide released by chemical leaveners, 46–47 cardamom, yeast activity and, 479 carrots Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, 71–72 quantity and weight measures of, 497 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Glory Muffins, 80–81 cayenne pepper, quantity and weight measures of, 497 cereals, for crusts, 267 chalazae freshness of eggs and, 166 removing, 65 Chambord Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, 145 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles with Chambord and Macadamia Dust, 103–104 Strawberry-Chambord Sauce, 89–90 cheddar cheese Crispy, Flakey Cheese Coins, 403–404 Flakey Cheddar Crust, 354–355 Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 308 in pastry crusts, 353, 354 Rooster’s Famous Fire Crackers, 391

514

Index

cheese. See also cheddar cheese; cream cheese; goat cheese; Gorgonzola cheese; Gruyère cheese; mascarpone cheese; Montrachet cheese; mozzarella cheese; Parmesan cheese; Swiss cheese in pastry crusts, 353–355 cheesecakes, 333–335 The Creamiest Ever Amaretto Cheesecake, 333–335 Herbed Parmesan Cheesecake, 341–342 chemical leaveners, 46–59. See also baking powder; baking soda at-a-glance summary chart, 59 ammonium bicarbonate, 243, 402 amount to use, 48–49 artificial sweeteners and, 79 buying, 47 checking potency of, 48 color of cookies and, 404 in cookies, 402–407 determining amount of, 35 distribution of, 16, 57–59 excess, in cakes, 50–57 excess, in cookies, 402–403, 404–407 in high-altitude baking, 50 leavening process and, 46–47 measuring, 47–48 quantity and weight measures of, 496 reaction times of acids in, 47 in self-rising flour. See self-rising flour spread of cookies and, 404, 427 storing, 48 types of, 46 cherries and cherry preserves Cherries and More Cherries, Cherry Pie with Streusel Topping, 316–318 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, 145 Dark, Sweet Bing Cherry Pie with Pastry Lattice, 314–315 Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 Streusel Topping, 317–318 chicken Real Homemade Chicken Pot Pie, 366–368 in Turkey Filling, 258

chiffon cakes, 231–233 Lemon-Orange Cream Chiffon Cake, 232–233 chlorination of cake flour, 30, 61 chocolate, 85–119 at-a-glance summary chart for, 108 alkalizing cocoa powder with baking soda to get deep color and, 111 Bali’s Alabaster Chocolate Tower, 88–89 bittersweet, 86, 87 bloom on, 91 in brownies, 407–416 buttercream icings, 150 cakes. See chocolate cakes care of, 90–91 chocolate chip development, 373–374 Chocolate Cream Puffs, 250 Chocolate Crinkle Cookies, 395–396 combining with other ingredients, 104 compound, 117 cooling rapidly, 106–107 couverture, 87, 88 dark, 87, 105 description of, 85 E-Z Delicious Chocolate-Nut Crust, 278–279 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles with Chambord and Macadamia Dust, 103–104 Featherlight Meringue Spheres with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream and Chocolate, 176–177 flourless cakes with, 64–67 forms of, 90 ganache. See ganache Heavenly Mocha HazelnutAlmond Meringue Cake, 182 high-percentage, 87, 94, 101 Lava Cookies, 400–401 Luscious, Creamy Chocolate Icing, 143–144 melting, 92–93, 105, 106 Memorable Silky Chocolate Meringue Pie, 336–337 milk, 90, 105 overheating, 92 production of, 85–86

ratio of flour to, brownie texture and, 410 Religieuses (Little Nuns), 251–252 ribbons, 118–119 Roasted Pecan Chocolate Chip Cookies, 375–376 sculptures in ice made of, 87–89 seizing of. See seizing of chocolate semisweet, 86, 87 Shirley’s Cakey Brownies, 413–414 Shirley’s Corrupted Black Gold, 401–402 Shirley’s Fudgy Brownies, 411–412 Simple Chocolate Mousse, 96 spread of cookies and, 427 Super Rich Espresso Brownies, 415–416 tempering. See tempering chocolate thin, 88 types of, 86–88 unsweetened (baking), 86 white. See white chocolate chocolate cakes Chocolate-on-Chocolate: Dark Moist Cake with ChocolateWalnut Frosting, 113–114 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 Chocolate-Walnut Frosted Golden Layer Cake, 41–42 Deep, Dark Chocolate Cake, 112–113 Deep, Dark Chocolate Cake with Ganache and Chocolate Ruffles, 116 “Flourless” Luscious, Decadent Chocolate Torte, 66–67 Improved Tunnel of Fudge Cake, 74–75 Intense Chocolate Lava Cakes, 229–230 Satin-Glazed Midnight Black Chocolate Cake, 115 Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 chocolate chips, semisweet, quantity and weight measures of, 497 chocolate liquor, 86 chocolate mass, 86

Index

515

ciabatta Ciabatta with Biga, 453–454 cinnamon quantity and weight measures of, 497 yeast activity and, 479 Clabber Girl baking powder, 46 cloves, quantity and weight measures of, 497 coarse sucrose in cookies, 397 Cobasan, 319 cocoa butter Bali’s Alabaster Chocolate Tower, 88–89 in chocolate, 85, 87 in cocoa powder, 109 crystallization of, 104–105. See also tempering chocolate forms of, 107 melting chocolate and, 106 source of, 88 in white chocolate, 88 cocoa-derived products, FDA standards of identity for, 91 cocoa powder, 108–112 at-a-glance summary chart for, 117 acidity of, 68, 109, 427 alkalizing with baking soda, 111 antioxidants in, 111 in brownies, 415 chocolate cakes with. See chocolate cakes cocoa butter content of, 109 color of cakes and, 109 dark chocolate color and, 111–116 dissolving in hot liquids, 110 dryness of products made with, 110 Dutch process, 68, 109–110, 111 in high-altitude baking, 110 Mocha Glaze, 252 natural, 68, 109, 111 pH of, 68, 109, 427 quantity and weight measures of, 497 spread of cookies and, 427 substituting for flour, 64–67, 110, 427 working with, 110–117 coconut Betty McCool’s Ole Time Coconut Soaking Solution, 41

Dinner-on-the-Grounds Coconut Cake, 40–41 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Glory Muffins, 80–81 coffee Coffee Cream Puffs, 250 Espresso Syrup, 236 mocha buttercream icings, 150 Mocha Glaze, 252 Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 216–217 Super Rich Espresso Brownies, 415–416 color. See also browning at-a-glance summary chart, 424 of baking sheets, 420 of cakes, cocoa powder and, 109, 111 of pastry crusts, 355, 356 compound coatings, 117 conalbumin, 172 confectioners’ sugar for buttercream icings, 145, 146 in cookies, 397 quantity and weight measures of, 496 conventional cake mixing method. See creaming cake mixing method cookie(s), 369–428. See also cracker(s); graham crackers; saltine crackers at-a-glance summary chart, 428 amaretti. See amaretti cookies baking, 374, 420, 424 Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies, 380–382 brownies. See brownies Buttery Jelly-Jeweled Cookies, 386–387 Chocolate Crinkle Cookies, 395–396 Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal Cookies, 379–380 cooling, 374 Cracked-Surface Crunchy Gingersnaps, 394 cracked surface on, 393–394 crisp, 423 with crunchy surface and gooey center, 395–396

Delicate French Meringue, 175–176 Diamond-Edged Melt-in-YourMouth Butter Cookies, 388–389 drop, 417 E-Z Delicious Peanut Butter Cookies, 383–384 fat in. See fat in cookies Featherlight Meringue Spheres with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream and Chocolate, 176–177 with flour and other grains, 379–383 flour for. See flour for cookies flourless, 383–384 Grandmother’s Pecan Macaroons, 398 Great Grandmother Schorr’s Moravian Molasses Cookies, 418–419 hydration of dough for, 374–375 Lace Cookies, 377–378 Laura Berry’s Extra-Crunchy Oatmeal Cookies, 382–383 Lava Cookies, 400–401 leaveners in, 402–407 low-flour, 377–378 meringues, 175–177, 399 mixing, 416–417 Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 Original Toll House Chocolate Chip Cookies, 373–374 refrigerator, 417 Roasted Pecan Chocolate Chip Cookies, 375–376 rolled, 417–418 salt in, 407 shaping, 417–418 Shirley’s Corrupted Black Gold, 401–402 snowflake cookies, 419 spread of. See spread of cookies stained glass, 387 sugar in. See sugar in cookies Taste Sensation Lemon-White Chocolate Butter Cookies, 389–390 texture of, leaveners and, 405 Wedding Cookies, 422

516

Index

cookie crumbs, 266–278 crusts. See crumb crusts Dark, Sweet Bing Cherry Pie with Pastry Lattice, 314–315 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, 312–314 Rolled-In Crumbs Crust, 324–325 “cookie crusts,” 351 cookie cutters, snowflake, 418, 419 cookie problems at-a-glance summary charts, 424, 425 crumbling, 373 crumbly cookies, 421–422 limp cookies, 423 overbaking, 424 pale colored cookies, 423, 424 shiny crust, 423 sticking, 424 cookie sheets, 374, 420 cooling. See also temperature of chocolate, rapid, 106–107 of cookies, 374 copper bowl for beating egg whites, 172 corn All-Time Favorite E-Z, Dee-licious Sour Cream Cornbread, 157 Great Shell with Fresh Crabmeat and Sweet Creamed Corn, 364–365 cornmeal All-Time Favorite E-Z, Dee-licious Sour Cream Cornbread, 157 Anadama Bread, 474–475 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, 158–159 quantity and weight measures of, 495 cornstarch in buttercream icings, 146 clouding of dishes prepared with, on refrigeration, 311 for meringues, 173, 186, 190 quantity and weight measures of, 497 corn syrup, 76, 77 for browning when using artificial sweeteners, 79 in buttercreams, 147 for chocolate ribbons, 118

color of pastry crust made with, 355 in cookies, browning and, 392, 397, 423 for crumb crusts, 268 in ganache, 97, 99–100 cottonseed oil, compound coatings made from, 117 couverture, 87 cows, breed of, whipping cream and, 319 crabmeat Great Shell with Fresh Crabmeat and Sweet Creamed Corn, 364–365 cracker(s). See also graham crackers; saltine crackers Crispy, Flakey Cheese Coins, 403–404 Rooster’s Famous Fire Crackers, 391 cracker crumbs for crusts, 267 cracking eggs, 165 crazy cake, 82–84 Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 cream. See also heavy cream; sour cream; whipped cream buffers in, acidity of batter and, 65 cream cheese Carrot Cake Cream Cheese Icing, 72 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, 145 Cream Cheese Crust, 288–289 The Creamiest Ever Amaretto Cheesecake, 333–335 Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, 274–275 Herbed Parmesan Cheesecake, 341–342 icings made with, 144–145 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Simple Cream Cheese Icing, 84 tenderness of pastry crusts made with, 353 White Chocolate Cream Cheese Icing, 144–145 Cream Glaze for Pound Cake, 24 creaming cake mixing method, 120–126 at-a-glance summary chart, 123

duration of creaming and, 122–123 gluten development in, 123–124 insufficient blending of leaveners and flour in, 123 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake (Creaming Method), 124–126 pitfalls in, 122–123 creaming step in cookie making, 416 cream of tartar in baking powder, 46 for egg-white foams, 172, 218 making one’s own baking powder using, 48 quantity and weight measures of, 497 reaction time of, 47 cream pies, 335–339 Butterscotch Meringue Pie, 338–339 Memorable Silky Chocolate Meringue Pie, 336–337 Rum Cream Pie, 276 temperature for cooking fillings for, 335 crème anglaise buttercreams, 215–217 Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 216–217 Crisco. See also shortening leavening and, 69, 70 crispness of cookies, 423 sugar and, 73 croissants Flakey, Buttery Croissants, 490–494 crumb liquid and, 31 muffin cake mixing method and, 129–134 sugar and, 31, 73 crumb crusts, 267–278 Bordeaux Macadamia Crust, 268–269 Chocolate Cookie Crumb Crust, 275–276 Cracker-Nut Crust, 273 Gingersnap-Pecan Crust, 277–278 ingredients for, 267–268 Judy Brady’s Blueberries and Bordeaux, 269–271

Index

517

crumb crusts (cont.) Modern Basic Honey Graham Crumb Crusts, 271 Monroe Boston Strause’s Crumb Crust, 272 crust(s) crumb. See crumb crusts meringue, 183–184, 279 pastry. See pastry crusts phyllo, 279–285 press-in-the-pan, 278–279 crust on cookies and brownies, 409–410, 423 curdling of buttercreams, 210 of buttermilk, 35 of low-fat dairy products, preventing, 329 prevention of, by cornstarch, 328–329, 335 custard(s), 328–335 cheesecakes, 333–335 Crème Anglaise, 331 Custard Pie Supreme, 332–333 Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière), 330 texture of, 331–332 custard buttercreams, 215–217 Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 216–217 custard pies, 323, 328–335 Custard Pie Supreme, 332–333 cutting brownies, 410 cyclamates, 77, 78

Dimick, Paul, 92, 105, 106, 107 dissolved-sugar cake mixing method, 77, 134 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake (Dissolved-Sugar Method), 37–38 “docking” pastry crusts, 294 Dodge, Jim, flatten-on-the-counter technique of, 302 doneness, testing cakes for, 136 double-acting baking powder, 46 double-crusted pies, baking, 327 double-icing technique, 141–142 dried apples Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 quantity and weight measures of, 496 dried egg whites, 166 dried fruit Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 drop cookies, 417 dry mustard quantity and weight measures of, 497 yeast activity and, 479 dump cake mixing method, 128 durum flour. See semolina flour Dutch process cocoa powder, 68, 109–110. See also cocoa powder antioxidants in, 111 quantity and weight measures of, 497

D
dark chocolate, 87 tempering, 105 date(s) Lane Cake Filling, 45 Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 quantity and weight measures of, 496 date-nut bread crumbs Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, 312–314 decorating pastry crusts, 295 dental tape for slicing cakes into layers, 39 Diamond Crystal kosher salt, 7, 481–482 diastatic malt extract, 477

E
egg(s). See also egg white(s); egg yolks adding in creaming cake mixing method, 121 adding to cookie dough, 416 in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36 in cake recipes, 12, 81–85 chalazae of, 65, 166 in cookies. See eggs in cookies cracking, 165 high-altitude baking and, 50 need for acid to set, 61, 64, 65, 110 for pâte à choux, 242 salmonella in, killing, 184–186

separating, 165–166 temperature of, for creaming cake mixing method, 122 type used in this book, 6 warming, 6 weight of, 35, 496 egg foam. See also egg-white foams adding fat to, 223 folding flour into, 223 for génoise, beating, 222 eggs in cookies, 397–402 beating after adding, crust formation and, 409, 423 setting of cookies and, 399 spread and, 399, 427 as structural ingredient, 397–399 whole eggs, egg whites, and egg yolks and, 399–402 egg white(s) beating, 166–167 in cookies, 399 copper bowl for beating, 172 cream of tartar for beating, 172 dried, 166 as drying agents, 12, 81 fat in, 166 freshness of, determining, 166 frozen, 166 as leavening agents, 81 overbeating, 167 in pastry crusts, 356 for pâte à choux, 242 salmonella in, killing, 184–186 separating eggs and, 165–166 warming, for meringue, 190–192 weight of, 496 egg-white foams, 164–241 at-a-glance summary chart, 194 buttercreams and. See buttercream(s) combining with butter for buttercreams, 209, 210 foam cakes and. See angel food cakes; chiffon cakes; génoise; sponge cakes handling eggs and, 165–167 how they work, 164–165 meringues and. See meringue(s); soft pie meringues soufflés and. See soufflés

518

Index

egg yolks in cookies, 399 as emulsifiers, 81 in génoise, 220 in pastry crusts, 356 salmonella in, killing, 102, 104, 184 separating eggs and, 165–166 thinning of dishes with, 110, 335 weight of, 496 emulsifiers egg yolks as, 81 in fats, 30, 69 lecithin as, 480 shortenings with. See Crisco; shortening emulsion(s), 210 buttercreams as, 210 in ganache, 102 emulsion cake mixing method, 135 English toffee Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut Muffins, 129–131 E-Z Delicious Peanut Butter Cookies, 383–384 quantity and weight measures of, 497 Equal, 77, 78 equipment. See also specific pieces of equipment sources for, 507–509 espresso. See coffee extracts for buttercreams, 147

F
fat(s), 69–72. See also butter; lard; margarine; shortening; solid fats adding to egg foam, 223 as aerators, 390 in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36 beating egg whites and, 166 in bread. See fat in bread for buttercreams, 147 in cake recipes, 12 coating of flour by, 345–346 combining with flour, absorption of liquid by pastry crust and, 351 combining with flour for flakey pastry crusts, 301–302

combining with flour for tender pastry crusts, 296, 297 in cookies. See fat in cookies crystal size and type in, 349 determining combination of, 35 emulsifiers in, 30, 69 fat content of, 346 as flavor carrier, 16, 69, 121 flavor of, 349, 350 grain and, 31 interference with gluten formation, 372–373, 421, 485 leavening and, 69–70, 390 mouthfeel and, 31 for pastry crusts, 345–350 for pâte à choux, 243 quantity and weight measures of, 496 ratio to flour, brownie texture and, 410 ratio to flour, in pastry crust, 340 ratio to flour, spread of cookies and, 426 solid vs. liquid, 69 spread of cookies and, 426 tenderness and, 69, 70, 345 waterproofing of crusts by, 345, 351 weight of, 35 whipping cream and, 319 fat bloom, 91 fat in bread, 485–494 layered doughs and, 490–494 order of adding to dough, 485 temperature and, 490 fat in cookies, 384–392 at-a-glance summary chart, 392 color and, 392 flavor and, 385–390 spread and, 384 texture and, 390–392 fermentation, temperature for, 434 fillings Lane Cake Filling, 45 Lemon Curd, 284 flakiness of pastry crusts, 296, 301–308, 346, 347, 349–350 of yeast breads, 490–494 flan rings for pastry crusts, 294 flavor of brownies, brown sugar and, 415

with cake flour, 61, 343 of fat, 349, 350 fat as carrier of, 16, 69, 121 fat in cookies and, 385–390 flour and, 62 kneading bread and, 433 of lard, 349 lecithin in bread and, 480 salt and, 345, 407, 481 sugar and, 73 temperature of bread dough and, 434 flavorings adding to fat, 121 for buttercreams, 147 flour, 60–64 adding in creaming cake mixing method, 121–122, 123–124 all-purpose. See all-purpose flour available to home cooks, 372, 377 in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36 barley, malted, in bread, 432 bleached vs. unbleached, 62–63 bread. See bread flour cake. See cake flour in cake recipes, 12 combining fat with, liquid absorption by pastry crusts and, 351 combining with fat for flakey pastry crusts, 301–302 combining with fat for tender pastry crusts, 296, 297 in cookies. See flour for cookies in eggless cakes, 82 flavor and, 62 folding into egg foam, 223 for génoise, 220–221 high-protein. See high-protein flour instant. See instant flour measuring, 6 milling of, 469 pastry. See pastry flour for pastry crusts, 343–345 for pâte à choux, 242 protein content of, 62, 343, 371–373, 377, 403, 468–470. See also highprotein flour; low-protein flour

Index

519

flour (cont.) for puff pastry, 357 quantity and weight measures of, 495 ratio of fat and chocolate to, brownie texture and, 410 ratio of fat to, in pastry crust, 340 ratio of fat to, spread of cookies and, 426 regional differences in, 469 role in cakes, 60 rye. See rye flour self-rising. See self-rising flour semolina. See semolina flour sequence of combining ingredients for cookies and, 426 spread of cookies and, 426 substituting cocoa powder for, 64–67, 110, 427 tapioca. See tapioca starch (tapioca flour) texture and, 60 types of, 60–63 types used in this book, 6 water to produce gluten in cookie dough and, 421, 426 weight of, 31, 34, 495 flour for bread, 431, 468–476. See also bread flour ash content of, 476 barley, malted, 477 choosing type of, 470–471 gluten formation and, 468–469 with malted barley flour added, 477 other than wheat, 473–475 protein content of, 468–470 regional differences in, 469 vital wheat gluten in, 476 whole-grain, 475–476 flour for cookies, 372–373 at-a-glance summary chart, 385 browning and, 423 protein content of, 371–373, 377 substituting types of, 373–374 variations in, 376–377 flourless cakes, 64–67 chocolate, 64–67 flourless cookies, 383–384 fluting pastry crusts, 295

foam cakes, 217–241. See also angel food cakes; chiffon cakes; génoise; sponge cakes focaccia Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 folding bread dough, 441 folding flour into egg foam, 223 food for yeast, 478 food processor flakey pastry crusts mixed by, 305–306 tender pastry crusts mixed by, 297–298 Form V and VI crystals, 105 fougasse Fougasse with Biga, 457–458 Straight Dough with Autolysis Fougasse, 439–441 free-form soufflés, 204–205 French buttercreams lightened, Italian meringue as, 215 Silky French Buttercream à la Roland Mesnier, 214–215 French meringues Delicate French Meringue, 175–176 Featherlight Meringue Spheres with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream and Chocolate, 176–177 French rolling pins, 287 freshness of egg whites, determining, 166 fresh yeast, 477, 478 frostings. See buttercream(s); icings and frostings; toppings frozen egg whites, 166 fruit. See also candied fruit; dried fruit; specific fruits cooked, for pies, 310–311 fresh, glazed, for pies, 309–310 preservation of shape by sugar, 73 quantity and weight measures of, 496 fruit pies Bill Greenwood’s Great Dome with a Braided Base, 327–328 Clide Ogletree’s Famous Strawberry Pie, 322–323 cooked fruit for, 310–311

Dark, Sweet Bing Cherry Pie with Pastry Lattice, 314–315 Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 308 glazed fresh fruit for, 309–310 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, 312–314 lattice for, 314–315 pastry cutouts for, 312–314 streusel topping for, 316–318 whipped cream toppings for, 318–323 fruit preserves Buttery Jelly-Jeweled Cookies, 386–387 Cherry-Chambord Butter, 154 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, 145 Salzburger Nockerl, 204–205 Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, 253 fruit tarts Lemon Tartlets, 283–284 Pear Tart with Frangipane in Puff Pastry, 360–361 Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 Rustic Pear Tart, 289–291

G
ganache, 95–102 with butter, 98–99 corn syrup in, 97, 99–100 emulsions in, 102 failure of, 100–101 firm, 95 medium, 95 Satin-Smooth Ganache Glaze, 99–100 Shiny Ganache Glaze, 97 Simple Chocolate Mousse, 96 soft, 95 techniques for, 100–102 Velvety Ganache Glaze, 98–99 gelatin quantity and weight measures of, 497 as stabilizer for whipped cream, 320 génoise, 219–231 at-a-glance summary chart, 228 baking, 223 Delicate Hazelnut Génoise, 227 Financiers, 230–231

520

Index

Improved Génoise, 224–226 ingredients for, 220–221 Intense Chocolate Lava Cakes, 229–230 proportions for, 220 techniques for, 221–223 ginger Cracked-Surface Crunchy Gingersnaps, 394 quantity and weight measures of, 497 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, Roasted Walnut Muffins, 133–134 yeast activity and, 479 gingerbread Serious Stuff Gingerbread, 84–85 Gisslen, Wayne on beating egg foam for génoise, 222 nut meringue recipes of, 178 glass, heatproof, precautions with, 5 glass pie dishes, 293–294 glazes Cream Glaze for Pound Cake, 24 Lemon Glaze, 26–27 Mocha Glaze, 252 Satin-Smooth Ganache Glaze, 99–100 Serious Rum Cake Glaze, 29 Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, 253 Shiny Ganache Glaze, 97 Shiny Glaze for Pound Cake, 18 Velvety Ganache Glaze, 98–99 gliadin, 343 amount in gluten, 470–471 combination with sugar, 350, 485 gluten formation from. See gluten lacking in non-wheat flours, 473 glucono-delta-lactone, reaction time of, 47 glucose. See corn syrup gluten aligning by rounding bread dough, 441 with all-purpose flour, 60 with cake flour, 61 cutting of, by acidic ingredients, 355 developing by folding bread dough, 441

extensibility of, 470–471 fat’s interference with formation of, 372–373, 421, 485 flour types and, 60, 61, 468–469 formation of, 343, 353 with high-protein flour, 372 insufficient to hold cookies together, 373, 421 limiting amount formed in cakes, 18–19, 120, 123–124 limiting amount formed in pastry crusts, 343, 345–346, 353 need for wheat flour to obtain, 473 in puff pastry, 356, 357 roughness of pastry crust caused by, 343 shrinking of pastry crust and, 343 strengthening and tightening of, by salt, 481 sugar’s interference with formation of, 350, 372–373, 421, 485 vital wheat gluten, 476 water absorption differences in flour and, 468 water to produce in cookie dough, 421, 426 glutenin, 343 amount in gluten, 470–471 combination with sugar, 350, 485 gluten formation from. See gluten lacking in non-wheat flours, 473 glycyrrhizin, 77 goat cheese Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, 274–275 Gold Medal flour all-purpose, 60, 62, 63 Harvest King unbleached, 461, 477, 478 protein content of, 377 Gorgonzola cheese Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 graham crackers. See cookie crumbs grain (of cake), fat, liquid, and sugar and, 31 granulated sugar for buttercream icings, 145 in cookies, 397

cracked surface on cookies and, 393–396 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Greenwood, Bill on meringue, 190–192 on pies, 266 Gruyère cheese Easy—Without Foam—Soufflé, 199–200 Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 Gougères—Magnificent Little Bits of Cheese Clouds, 255–257 Incredibly Creamy Soufflés, 206–207 Simply Wonderful Strata— Browned Billows of Cheesy Puff, 201 Soufflé Magnifique!, 196–198

H
ham Simply Wonderful Strata— Browned Billows of Cheesy Puff, 201 hand-held pies Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 308 strong crust for, 306–307 hand mixers, 2 hard red winter wheat flour for baguettes, 62 unbleached, for bread, 431 hard wheat, 468, 471 hazelnuts Delicate Hazelnut Génoise, 227 Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut Paste, 291 Hazelnut-Almond Meringue Layers with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 178–180 Hazelnut-Almond Soft Dacquoise, 180–181 Heavenly Mocha HazelnutAlmond Meringue Cake, 182 quantity and weight measures of, 496

Index

521

Healy, Bruce chocolate fan-making procedure of, 106 on creaming cake mixing method, 122 on creaming of butter and sugar, 121 flour preferred by, 60, 62, 63 on génoise, 220 lightened French buttercream of, 215 on liquid for pâte à choux, 242 nut meringue recipes of, 177 on overheating chocolate, 92 on pound cake, 13 on temperature of foam for génoise, 222 heatproof glass, precautions with, 5 heavy cream substituting for milk in cakes, 16–19 whipped. See whipped cream Hermé, Pierre, puff pastry technique of, 358 Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa, 111 high-altitude baking, 50 cocoa powder and, 110 high-percentage chocolate, 87, 94, 101 high-protein flour, 468 for cookies, browning and, 423 gluten formation in, 372 liquid absorption by, 372 for pâte à choux, 242 for puff pastry, 357 high-ratio cakes, 30–31, 69, 124 Hocking, Sylvia, 13 homogenized cream, whipping, 319 honey, 76 in cookies, 397 Honey Mascarpone Cream, 270–271 hygroscopic nature of, 76, 393, 397, 423 hot-oil crusts, 346 hot syrup, pouring, 187, 209 Hurlbert, Heather, 19 on buttercreams, 209 chocolate sculptures made by, 87–88 hydration of cookie dough, 374–375 hydrogenated starch, 77

I
icings and frostings, 141–150. See also toppings Betty McCool’s Coconut Icing, 41 buttercream. See buttercream icings Carrot Cake Cream Cheese Icing, 72 Cherry-Chambord Butter Icing, 145 chocolate, 143–144. See also ganache cream cheese, 144–145 double-icing technique for, 141–142 ganaches. See ganache goal of, 141 Icing for Pound Cake, 18 Luscious, Creamy Chocolate Icing, 143–144 meringue, 145 Pound Cake Icing, 24 Scone Icing, 156 Serious Rum Cake Icing, 29 Simple Cream Cheese Icing, 84 soft chocolate, 142–143 whipped cream, 142 White Chocolate Cream Cheese Icing, 144–145 ingredients, 6–7. See also specific ingredients acidity of, 68 baker’s formulas for, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36, 238 baker’s percentages, 32, 34–35, 432 balance of, for cakes, 13–14, 29–31, 33 improvements in, 30 quantity and weight measures of, 495–497 sifting for even distribution of leaveners, 58 sources for, 88, 146, 509–510 instant coffee powder, quantity and weight measures of, 497 instant flour in cookies, 385 Lard Crust, 349–350 for pastry crust, 343–345 protein content of, 343, 372

quantity and weight measures of, 495 Shirley’s Adaptation of Strause’s Special Crust for Pumpkin Pie, 298–299 Simple Very Flakey Crust, 302–304 instant-read thermometers to test cakes for doneness, 136 instant yeast, 477, 478 quantity and weight measures of, 496 insulated cookie sheets, 420 isomalt, 77 Italian buttercreams, 209–211, 212–213 Italian Buttercream, 212–213 Italian meringues, 186–188 Italian Meringue (Magnificent Pie Meringue), 187–188 in lightened French buttercream, 215

K
King Arthur flour, 385 all-purpose, 82 protein content of, 377 rye, 460 unbleached all-purpose, 461, 477, 478 kiwi Turkey Filling, 258 kneading bread, 433, 479–480 knives for slicing cakes into layers, 39 kosher salt in bread dough, 481 production process for, 481–482 substituting for table salt, 7 Kummer, Corby, 63

L
lactitol, 77 lame, 442 lane cake Shirley’s Not-the-Traditional Lane Cake, 44–45 lard fat content of, 346 flakiness of pastry crust made with, 346, 349, 350 flavor of, 349

522

Index

Lard Crust, 349–350 quantity and weight measures of, 496 layers, slicing cakes into, 39 leaf lard, 349 lean cakes (regular shortened cakes) baker’s percentages for, 32 formulas for, 30 leavening and leaveners bubbles in fats as, 69–70, 390, 402 chemical. See ammonium bicarbonate; baking powder; baking soda; chemical leaveners egg white foams as. See eggwhite foams; meringue(s); soft pie meringues steam as. See steam yeast as. See baker’s yeast; wild yeast; yeast breads lecithin in bread, 432, 480 lemons and lemon juice E-Z Crust with the Fresh, Sparkling Taste of Lemon Zest, 340–341 Lemon Curd, 284 Lemon Glaze, 26–27 Lemon-Orange Cream Chiffon Cake, 232–233 Lemon Tartlets, 283–284 Take-Your-Breath-Away Lemon Pound Cake, 25–27 Taste Sensation Lemon-White Chocolate Butter Cookies, 389–390 Lenôtre, Gaston, on egg foam for génoise, 221, 222 levain, wild yeast. See sourdough starters lightness, cake mixing method and, 120, 124 limp cookies, 423 liquids. See also specific liquids absorption of, protein content of flour and, 372 adding in creaming cake mixing method, 122, 123–124 adding to melted chocolate, 101 in baker’s formulas, 31 crumb and, 31 dissolving leaveners in, 59 dissolving salt in, 122, 345 in emulsions, 210

grain and, 31 order of adding to bread dough, 485 for pastry crusts, 353 for pâte à choux, 242–243 for puff pastry, 357 seizing of chocolate and. See seizing of chocolate spread of cookies and, 427 texture and, 31 volume and metric measures of, 497 weight of, 35 loaf cakes, oven temperature for, 137 low-fat dairy products, preventing curdling of, 329 low-protein flour, 470. See also cake flour; instant flour; Southern all-purpose flour; White Lily flour protein content of, 469

M
macadamia nuts Bordeaux Macadamia Crust, 268–269 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles with Chambord and Macadamia Dust, 103–104 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Maldon sea salt, 7 malitol, 77 malted barley flour, 432, 477 malt extract, 477 mangoes in Great Flower Cake, 241 mannitol, 77 maple syrup, 76 in cookies, 393 margarine disadvantages of, 70 fat content of, 346 flakiness and, 346 marshmallow creme Carol Moore’s Easy Magnificent Meringue, 193 marshmallow to stabilize whipped cream, 320, 321 Martha White flour, 377 mascarpone cheese Honey Mascarpone Cream, 270–271

McGee, Harold, on cream of tartar with copper bowl, 172 measurement, 2 of chemical leaveners, 47–48 metric measures and, 2, 495 weighing vs. volume for, 6 weights for ingredients, list of, 495–497 Medrich, Alice on combining melted chocolate with other ingredients, 94, 95 on high-percentage chocolate, 87, 101 salmonella, procedure for killing of, 185–186 melting chocolate, 92–93, 105 cocoa butter and, 106 melting curves for, 106 meringue(s), 167–193 at-a-glance summary chart, 194 cakes (nut meringues), 177–184 cookies, 175–177, 399 crust on brownies as, 409 Floating Islands, 170–171 French (meringue ordinaire), 174–177 hard, 174–177, 186 heat and, 168 ingredients for, 168–174 Italian, 186–188 nut, 177–184 for pies, stable, 186–188 proportions in recipes for, 174, 177–178 salmonella-safe, 184–186 shrinkage of, preventing, 173 soft, moist hard meringue, 181 soft pie meringues, 188–193 Swiss, 184–186 tearing of, preventing, 173 weeping of, 168, 189, 191 meringue crusts, 183–184, 279 meringue icings, 145 meringue powder, sources of, 146 Mesnier, Roland on buttercreams, 213 on cooking fruit for pies, 311 on egg foam for génoise, 221–222 nut meringue recipes of, 177 on sealing meringue and filling, 189 metric measures, 2, 495 microbial activity, sugar and, 73

Index

523

milk in bread, 482–485 for pâte à choux, 242–243 substituting sour cream or heavy cream for, in cakes, 16–19 type used in this book, 7 milk chocolate, 90 tempering, 105 milling of flour, 469 minerals in flour, 476 mixers, 2 in creaming cake mixing method, 123 flakey pastry crusts mixed by, 304–305 tender pastry crusts mixed by, 297 mixing of bread dough, temperature for, 434–435 of cookies, 416–417 of pâte à choux, 243 mocha buttercream icings, 150 Heavenly Mocha HazelnutAlmond Meringue Cake, 182 moistness brown sugar and, 393, 397, 423 formulas to create moist cakes and, 32, 34–36 honey and, 76, 393, 397, 423 icings and frostings to retain, 141 molasses and, 423 oil and, 52 of pound cakes, increasing, 18–29 sugar and, 52, 73, 393, 397, 423 moisture. See also liquids; moistness; steam; water; specific liquids seizing of chocolate and, 93 molasses, 76 Anadama Bread, 474–475 Great Grandmother Schorr’s Moravian Molasses Cookies, 418–419 hygroscopic nature of, 423 Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 snowflake cookies, 419 monocalcium phosphate anhydrous, reaction time of, 47 in baking powder, 46 reaction time of, 47

monopotassium tartrate. See cream of tartar Montrachet cheese Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, 274–275 Morton’s kosher salt, 7, 482 mousse Simple Chocolate Mousse, 96 mouthfeel, fat and, 31 mozzarella cheese Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 muffin(s) Blueberries and Cream Muffins, 131–132 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut Muffins, 129–131 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Glory Muffins, 80–81 shape of, 136–137 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, Roasted Walnut Muffins, 133–134 muffin cake mixing method, 57–58, 129–134. See also muffin(s) muffin pans, sizes of, 128 mustard. See dry mustard Myers’s rum, 27

ground, substituting for flour, 64 roasted, to improve flavor and texture of cakes, 52 nutmeg quantity and weight measures of, 497 yeast activity and, 479 nut meringues, 177–184 Blueberries with Honey Mascarpone Cream in Walnut-Oat Meringue, 183–184 Hazelnut-Almond Meringue Layers with Silky Crème Anglaise Coffee Buttercream, 178–180 Hazelnut-Almond Soft Dacquoise, 180–181 Heavenly Mocha HazelnutAlmond Meringue Cake, 182 as pie crusts, 183–184 storing, 182

O
oats Blueberries with Honey Mascarpone Cream in Walnut-Oat Meringue, 183–184 Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies, 380–382 Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal Cookies, 379–380 Laura Berry’s Extra-Crunchy Oatmeal Cookies, 382–383 quantity and weight measures of, 497 oils for chiffon cake, 231–233 in emulsions, 210 to increase moisture in cakes, 52 substituting for part of fat in pound cakes, 18–19, 25–29 tenderness and, 69, 70, 390 one-bowl cake mixing method, 128 oranges and orange juice Fried Apple Pies Extraordinaire, 308 Lemon-Orange Cream Chiffon Cake, 232–233 Orange Cream Puffs, 250 Shiny Apricot-Orange Glaze, 253

N
natural cocoa powder, 109. See also cocoa powder antioxidants in, 111 quantity and weight measures of, 497 nondiastatic malt extract, 477 nonrolled pastry crusts, 266–285 crumb crusts, 267–278 meringue, 183–184, 279 phyllo, 279–285 press-in-the-pan, 278–279 Northern specialty blended allpurpose flour in cookies, 385 protein content of, 372, 377 nut(s). See also almond(s); hazelnuts; macadamia nuts; peanut butter; pecans; pistachios; walnuts Cracker-Nut Crust, 273 for crusts, 267 Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut Paste, 291

524

Index

ovens bakeware and, 6 operation of, 3 steam in, 5 “oven spring,” 442 oven temperature baking stones and, 2, 4–5, 135, 244, 443 for cakes, 136 fast preheating and, 4 fluctuation of, 3–4 for high-altitude baking, 50 for loaf cakes, 137 for muffins, 136–137 opening door and, 5 rise and, 135 temperature settings and, 3 texture and, 136 overbaking cookies, 424 overbeating egg whites, 167 overleavening, 50–57 of cookies, 402–403, 404–407 examples of recipes with, 55–57 “fixing” overleavened recipes and, 57 improving overleavened recipes and, 51–52 overwhipping cream, 320 oxygen, incorporating into bread dough, 479–480

P
palm kernel oil in compound coatings, 117 in white chocolate, 88 in white coatings, 90 parchment paper, 424 Parmesan cheese Cheese ’n’ Rice Bread, 444–446 Gougères—Magnificent Little Bits of Cheese Clouds, 255–257 Herbed Parmesan Cheesecake, 341–342 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, 158–159 in pastry crusts, 353, 354 quantity and weight measures of, 496 paste Frangipane—Almond-Hazelnut Paste, 291 pasteurized cream, whipping, 319

pastry blend cake mixing method, 126–127 pastry crusts, 286–309, 339–356 at-a-glance summary chart, 309 acidic ingredients for, 355 baking pans for, 293–294 basic recipe for, 339–340 Bill Greenwood’s Great Dome with a Braided Base, 327–328 cheese in, 353–355 color of, 355, 356 combining flour and fat for, 296, 301–302 Cream Cheese Crust, 288–289 Crust for Hand-Held Pies, 306–307 Crust with Instant Flour, 344–345 decorating, 295 eggs in, 356 E-Z Crust with the Fresh, Sparkling Taste of Lemon Zest, 340–341 fat for, 345–350 flakey, 296, 301–308, 346 Flakey Butter Crust in a Mixer, 304–305 Flakey Cheddar Crust, 354–355 Flakey Crust in a Food Processor, 305–306 flour for, 343–345 Greenwood’s Great Buttermilk Crust, 347–349 hot-oil, 346 Lard Crust, 349–350 liquids for, 353 pâte brisée, 351 Pâte Sablé, 352–353 pâte sablé, 351 pâte sucrée, 351 phyllo. See phyllo crusts placing in pan, 295 pre- or blind-baking, 294, 325–326 proportions for, 347 ratio of fat to flour for, 340 Rolled-In Crumbs Crust, 324–325 rolling, 286–288 Rustic Cherry Tart, 291–293 Rustic Pear Tart, 289–291 salt for, 345 setting of dough and, acidic ingredients and, 355

shaping, 293, 295 Shirley’s Adaptation of Strause’s Special Crust for Pumpkin Pie, 298–299 shrinkage of, 295, 343 Simple Very Flakey Crust, 302–304 strong, for hand-held pies, 306–307 sugar for, 350–353 “super flakey,” 302 tender, 296–301, 345–346, 350 time required for, 286 waterproof, 296–297, 298, 324–325, 345, 351 pastry flour in cookies, 385 protein content of, 343, 372, 470 pâte à choux, 241–262 at-a-glance summary chart, 262 baking, 244 Cocktail Puffs with Escargots, 259 Cream Puffs, 250 Éclairs, 251 Gougères—Magnificent Little Bits of Cheese Clouds, 255–257 ingredients for, 241–243 Pâte à Choux Ordinaire, 245–247 Pâte à Choux “Somewhat Spéciale,” 247–249 Pont Neuf, 254 Puits d’Amour (Wells of Love), 252–253 Religieuses (Little Nuns), 251–252 Shirley’s Mile-High Popovers, 260–261 sticking of, 244 techniques for, 243–244 Turkey Gougère, 257–258 pâte brisée, 351 Patent, Greg, puff pastry technique of, 358 pâte sablé, 351 pâte sucrée, 351 peaches Fresh Peach Soufflé à la Roland Mesnier, 202–203 Golden-Leafed Peach Pie, 312–314 in Great Flower Cake, 241 Peach Sauce, 203

Index

525

peanut butter E-Z Delicious Peanut Butter Cookies, 383–384 quantity and weight measures of, 497 pears Croustade, 281–282 Pear Tart with Frangipane in Puff Pastry, 360–361 Rustic Pear Tart, 289–291 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, Roasted Walnut Muffins, 133–134 pecans Bourbon Pecan Oatmeal Cookies, 380–382 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 Croustade, 281–282 French Cake aux Fruits, 139–140 Gingersnap-Pecan Crust, 277–278 Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, 71–72 Grandmother’s Pecan Macaroons, 398 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 Improved Tunnel of Fudge Cake, 74–75 Lane Cake Filling, 45 Laura Berry’s Extra-Crunchy Oatmeal Cookies, 382–383 Lava Cookies, 400–401 Moist Banana Nut Bread, 137–138 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Roasted Pecan Chocolate Chip Cookies, 375–376 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Glory Muffins, 80–81 Shirley’s Cakey Brownies, 413–414 Shirley’s Corrupted Black Gold, 401–402 Shirley’s Fudgy Brownies, 411–412 Shirley’s Version of Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 54–55 Wedding Cookies, 422 pepper black, quantity and weight measures of, 497

cayenne, quantity and weight measures of, 497 white, quantity and weight measures of, 497 Pepperidge Farm Bordeaux cookies. See Bordeaux cookies phenylalanine, 78 phyllo crusts, 279–285 The Best-Ever Chess Tarts, 285 Croustade, 281–282 Lemon Tartlets, 283–284 shaped and prebaked shells, 282–285 phyllo pastry handling, 280 store-bought, 280 phyllo shells, shaped and prebaked, 282–285 pie(s), 263–368 baking. See baking pies cream. See cream pies custard. See custard pies double-crusted, baking, 327 fruit. See fruit pies hand-held, strong crust for, 306–307 Memorable Creamy Pumpkin Pie, 300–301 pie crusts, 266–309. See also crumb crusts; nonrolled pastry crusts; pastry crusts pie meringues Alice Medrich’s Safe Meringue, 185–186 Carol Moore’s Easy Magnificent Meringue, 193 Greenwood’s Great High Meringue, 191–192 Italian Meringue (Magnificent Pie Meringue), 187–188 soft, 188–193 stable, 186–188 pie pans, 293–294 glass, 293–294 with holes, 294 pie weights, 326 Pillsbury flour, 377 piping of pâte à choux, 244 pistachios, quantity and weight measures of, 496 pizza stones. See baking stones plums in Great Flower Cake, 241

poolish, 447–452 Baguettes Made with Poolish, 448–450 baker’s percentages for, 448 Poolish, 448 Rustic Boules Made with Poolish, 450–452 popovers Shirley’s Mile-High Popovers, 260–261 pork in Turkey Filling, 258 potato starch about, 7 in pound cakes, 18, 22–24 quantity and weight measures of, 497 substituting for part of flour, 62–63 texture and, 62–63 potency of chemical leaveners, checking, 48 pot pies Real Homemade Chicken Pot Pie, 366–368 pound cakes, 13–29 balance of ingredients for, 13–14 Bundt or tube pan for, 15 Chef Heather Hurlbert’s Magnificent Moist Whipped Cream Pound Cake, 20–21 The Great American Pound Cake, 16–19, 33–34 Icing for Pound Cake, 18 increasing moistness of, 18–29 potato starch in, 18, 22–24 Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 Shiny Glaze for Pound Cake, 18 Shirley’s Even Greater American Pound Cake, 22–24 Soaking Solution for Pound Cake, 18 substituting oil for part of fat in, 18–19, 25–29 Take-Your-Breath-Away Lemon Pound Cake, 25–27 whipped cream in, 19–29 pouring hot syrup, 187, 209 prebaking pastry crusts. See blindbaking pastry crusts pre-ferments, 447–467 with baker’s yeast, 447–459 with wild yeast, 459–467 preheating ovens, 4

526

Index

preshaping bread dough, 441–442 press-in-the-pan crust, 278–279 E-Z Delicious Chocolate-Nut Crust, 278–279 protein amount in flour, 62, 343, 403, 468–470. See also highprotein flour; low-protein flour coating of, by oil, tenderness and, 390 denaturation of, 164–165 in egg-white foams, 165 factors influencing content in flour, 468–469 gluten and. See gliadin; gluten; glutenin liquid absorbed by flour and, 372 prevention of denaturation by starch, 328–329, 335 in self-rising flour, 403 speed of cooking of, acidic ingredients and, 355, 393, 399 puff pastry, 356–368 “brush-it-with-ice-water” technique for, 357–358 classic, 358–368 flour for, 357 folding technique for making, 356, 360 Great Shell with Fresh Crabmeat and Sweet Creamed Corn, 364–365 lattice, 367–368 liquid for, 356 Mustard-Dill Salmon en Croûte, 361–362 Pear Tart with Frangipane in Puff Pastry, 360–361 Piroshkis, 362–363 Quick Puff Pastry or “Rough Puff,” 359–360 Real Homemade Chicken Pot Pie, 366–368 working with, 356–358 pumpkin Memorable Creamy Pumpkin Pie, 300–301 pumpkin seeds Rye with Pumpkin and Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 punching down bread dough, 441, 479–480

Purdy, Susan on creaming butter and sugar, 121 on high-altitude baking, 50 Pyler, E. J. on eggs, 220 on temperature of foam for génoise, 221

Q
quick breads All-Time Favorite E-Z, Dee-licious Sour Cream Cornbread, 157 Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 Moist Banana Nut Bread, 137–138 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, 158–159 oven temperature for, 137 quick-mix cake mixing method, 128 Quick-Rise yeast, 477, 478 quantity and weight measures of, 496

R
raisins Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal Cookies, 379–380 French Cake aux Fruits, 139–140 Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 51–52 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Ruth Fowler’s Beautiful Morning Glory Muffins, 80–81 seedless vs. seeded, 53 Shirley’s Version of Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 54–55 Rapadura, 76 RapidRise yeast, 477, 478 quantity and weight measures of, 496 raspberries Shirley’s Not-So-Sconey Scones, 155–156 raspberry jam Judy Brady’s Blueberries and Bordeaux, 269–271

raspberry liqueur. See Chambord reducing sugar, corn syrup as, 423 refrigerator cookies, 417 Reinhart, Peter, on whole-grain flour, 475–476 Release foil for baking cookies, 374, 424 rice Cheese ’n’ Rice Bread, 444–446 cooking “Carolina style,” 160 Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 rice malt syrup, 76 rise baking stones and, 135, 443 need for gluten in yeast bread for, 473 “oven spring” and, 442 steam and, 5, 135 roasted nuts to improve flavor and texture of cakes, 52 rolled cookies, 417–418 rolling pastry dough, 286–288 to even thickness, 288 rolling pins for, 287 surface for, 287 technique for, 287–288 rolling pin(s), 287 rolling pin rings, 288 room temperature in U.S. homes, 122 rope edge of pastry crusts, 295 roulades, 238–241 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 proportions for, 238 rounding bread dough, 441–442 rum Myers’s, 27 Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 Rum Cream Pie, 276 Rum Drizzle, 76 Serious Rum Cake, 27–29 Serious Rum Cake Glaze, 29 Serious Rum Cake Icing, 29 Rumford baking powder, 46 rye flour, 460 quantity and weight measures of, 495 Rye with Pumpkin and Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 Shirley’s Adaptation of Whitley’s Rye Sourdough Starter, 460–461

Index

527

rye flour (cont.) Working Rye or Wheat Starter, 461–462

S
saccharin, 77–78 salmon Mustard-Dill Salmon en Croûte, 361–362 salmonella, killing in eggs, 102, 104, 184–186 salt adding in creaming cake mixing method, 122 adding to pastry dough, 345 in bread, 481–482 for buttercream icings, 146 in cookies, 407 dissolving in liquid, 122, 345 gluten in bread dough and, 481 kosher, 7, 481–482 for pastry crusts, 345 production of, 481–482 quantity and weight measures of, 497 sea, 7, 481, 482 shelf life of bread and, 481 suppression of bitterness by, 345, 407, 481 sweetness and, 407 table, 7, 481 time of addition to bread dough, 481 types of, 7, 481–482 saltine crackers Cracker-Nut Crust, 273 Rooster’s Famous Fire Crackers, 391 sauces Caramel, 171–172 Cream Sauce, 363 Peach Sauce, 203 Strawberry-Chambord Sauce, 89–90 scones, 154–156 Shirley’s Not-So-Sconey Scones, 155–156 sea salt brands of, 7 in bread dough, 481 composition of, 482 substituting for table salt, 7

seeded raisins seedless raisins vs., 53 substitution for, 53 seedless raisins, seeded raisins vs., 53 seizing of chocolate, 93 combining chocolate with other ingredients and, 94–95, 101 preventing, 93–94 rescuing chocolate after, 93 self-rising flour, 57, 151 advantage of, 58–59 characteristics of, 63 for cookies, 403–404 protein content of, 403, 470 quantity and weight measures of, 495 White Lily, 61, 63, 151 semisweet chocolate, 86, 87 semisweet chocolate chips, quantity and weight measures of, 497 semolina flour, 471 quantity and weight measures of, 495 Semolina Bread, 471–473 Straight Dough with Autolysis Baguettes, 436–438 separating eggs, 165–166 Shake & Blend. See instant flour shaping of cookies, 417–418 of pastry crusts, 293, 295 of pâte à choux, 244 shortening for buttercreams, 147, 208–209 butter-flavored, in cookies, 385, 392, 426 coating of flour by, 345–346 in cookies, 392 ease of working with crust made from, 346 with emulsifiers. See Crisco fat content of, 346 flakiness of pastry crust made with, 346, 347, 350 as leavener, 390, 402 quantity and weight measures of, 496 spread of cookies and, 384 in sticks, for pastry crusts, 302 tenderness and, 347 shrinkage of fruit fillings, solution to, 310–311

of meringues, preventing, 173, 190 of pastry crusts, 295, 343 sifting to distribute leaveners, 58 single-stage cake mixing method, 128 slashing bread dough, 442 snails Cocktail Puffs with Escargots, 259 snowflake cookie cutters, 418, 419 soaking solutions Betty McCool’s Ole Time Coconut Soaking Solution, 41 Chocolate-on-Chocolate Cake Soaking Solution, 114 Golden Layers Soaking Solution, 42 Lane Cake Soaking Solution, 45 Soaking Solution for Pound Cake, 18 sodium acid pyrophosphate, reaction time of, 47 sodium aluminum phosphate, reaction time of, 47 sodium aluminum sulfate baking powders made with, 46 reaction time of, 47 soft chocolate icings, 142–143 soft pie meringues, 188–193 baking, 191 beading of, 189 Carol Moore’s Easy Magnificent Meringue, 193 Greenwood’s Great High Meringue, 191–192 proportions in recipes for, 188 shrinkage of, preventing, 173, 190 tearing of, 190 warming egg whites for, 190–192 weeping of, 189, 191 soft wheat, 468–469, 471 soft winter wheat flour, protein content of, 377 solid fats leavening and, 69–70 tenderness and, 69 sorbitol, 77 soufflés, 195–208 at-a-glance summary chart, 208 base for, hot, 195, 196 Easy—Without Foam—Soufflé, 199–200

528

Index

flourless, 202–203 free-form, 204–205 freestanding, 205–207 Fresh Peach Soufflé à la Roland Mesnier, 202–203 Incredibly Creamy Soufflés, 206–207 with no egg-white foam, 198–200 Salzburger Nockerl, 204–205 Simply Wonderful Strata— Browned Billows of Cheesy Puff, 201 Soufflé Magnifique!, 196–198 stratas, 200–201 sources for equipment, 507–509 for ingredients, 88, 146, 509–510 sour cream All-Time Favorite E-Z, Dee-licious Sour Cream Cornbread, 157 with baking soda, 49 color of pastry crust and, 355 The Creamiest Ever Amaretto Cheesecake, 333–335 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Simple Very Flakey Crust, 302–304 Sour Cream Topping, 301 substituting for milk in cakes, 16–19 tenderness of pastry crusts made with, 353, 355 sourdough starters, 459–467 building, 466–467 Rye and Wheat Starter, 463–465 Rye with Pumpkin and Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 Shirley’s Adaptation of Whitley’s Rye Sourdough Starter, 460–461 Sourdough Rustic Boules, 466–467 temperature for, 459–460, 463 Working Rye or Wheat Starter, 461–462 Southern all-purpose flour, 63, 151 in cookies, 385 protein content of, 372, 377, 469, 470

Southwestern all-purpose flour in cookies, 385 protein content of, 372 soybean oil, compound coatings made from, 117 spices. See also specific spices quantity and weight measures of, 497 yeast activity and, 479, 480 Splenda, 77, 79 sponge (pre-ferment), 447 sponge cakes, 233–241 Chocolate Pecan Torte with a Hint of Bourbon, 237–238 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 La Joconde, 233–238 rolled (roulades), 238–241 Shirley’s Simplified Clichy Cake (Opera Cake), 235–236 Simplified La Joconde, 234–235 spoon breads, 158–160 Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 Old-Fashioned Spoon Bread, 158–159 spread of cookies, 425–427 acidity and, 404, 427 chocolate and, 427 cocoa powder and, 427 eggs and, 399, 427 fat and, 384, 426 flour and, 426 leaveners and, 404, 427 liquid and, 427 sugar and, 393, 427 springform pan sizes, 271 spring wheat, 468, 471 starch. See also cornstarch; potato starch; tapioca starch (tapioca flour) custard texture and, 331–332 hydrogenated, 77 for meringues, 173–174 prevention of protein coagulation by, 328–329, 335 types used in this book, 7 steam, 161–262 creating in oven, 5, 246, 248, 443 egg-white foams and. See angel food cakes; buttercream(s); chiffon cakes; egg-white foams; génoise; meringue(s); soft pie meringues; soufflés; sponge cakes

as leavener, 47 misting pâte à choux to create, 244 pâte à choux and. See pâte à choux rise and, 5, 135, 443 steamer, making, 5, 246, 248, 443 stevia, 77 sticking of cookies, 424 of pâte à choux, 244 storage of cakes, 54, 150 of chemical leaveners, 48 of nut meringues, 182 straight dough bread-making method, 444–446 with autolysis, 435–441 stratas, 200–201 Simply Wonderful Strata— Browned Billows of Cheesy Puff, 201 Strause, Monroe Boston on cooking fruit for pies, 310–311 on crumb crusts, 267–268 on meringues, 173 on pies, 266 strawberries Clide Ogletree’s Famous Strawberry Pie, 322–323 Great Flower Cake, 239–241 Strawberry-Chambord Sauce, 89–90 streusel topping, 316–318 Streusel Topping, 317–318 string test for checking temper, 107 Sucanat, 76 sucralose, 77, 79 sucrose in cookies, 397 sugar(s), 73–79 adding to flour before folding into egg foam, 222 amount required for meringues, 168–169 in baker’s formulas, 29–31, 32, 33, 34–36 beet, 146 in bittersweet chocolate, 87 in bread, 485 brown. See brown sugar in brownies, 415 browning and, 73 bulk and, 73 for buttercream icings, 145–146

Index

529

sugar(s) (cont.) in cake recipes, 12 cane, 146 Caramel, 171–172 confectioners’. See confectioners’ sugar control of microbial activity by, 73 in cookies. See sugar in cookies cooking fruit for pies with, 310–311 crisp vs. limp cookies and, 423 crumb and, 31 for crumb crusts, 267–268 in dissolved-sugar cake mixing method, 134 flavor and, 73 grain and, 31 granulated. See granulated sugar high-altitude baking and, 50 hygroscopic nature of, 73, 393, 397, 423 to increase moisture in cakes, 52 interference with gluten formation, 350, 372–373, 421, 485 for meringues, 168–172 moisture retention and, 73, 393, 397, 423 for pastry crusts, 350–353 preservation of fruit and vegetable shape by, 73 quantity and weight measures of, 495–496 Rapadura, 76 reducing, corn syrup as, 423 sources of, 146 spread of cookies and, 427 Sucanat, 76 superfine (baker’s, bar, berry), 168, 233 table. See granulated sugar tenderness and, 73 texture and, 73 texture of, surface texture of cookies and, 393–396 timing of addition for meringues, 169 turbinado, 76, 397 types used in this book, 6 weight of, 34 sugar/batter cake mixing method. See creaming cake mixing method

sugar beets, 146 sugar bloom, 91 sugar/flour batter cake mixing method, 135. See creaming cake mixing method sugar in cookies, 392–397 at-a-glance summary chart, 397 browning and, 392 crisp vs. limp cookies and, 423 spread and, 393 texture and, 393–396 sugar-shortening cake mixing method. See creaming cake mixing method summer coatings, 117 Sunett, 77, 78 sunflower seeds Rye with Pumpkin and Sunflower Seeds, 462–463 superfine sugar making one’s own, 168, 233 for meringues, 168, 233 sweeteners. See also artificial sweeteners; corn syrup; honey; maple syrup; molasses; rice malt syrup; sugar(s); specific types of sugars types of, 76 sweetness, salt and, 407 Sweet ’n Low, 77–78 Swiss buttercreams, 209–211 Swiss Buttercream, 211 Swiss cheese Golden Brown Puffed Cheesy Rice Spoon Bread, 159–160 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Swiss meringues, 184–186 Alice Medrich’s Safe Meringue, 185–186 syrup(s), 77. See also corn syrup; maple syrup Basic Heavy Syrup, 226 Espresso Syrup, 236 Génoise Syrup, 226 hot, pouring, 187, 209

T
table salt in bread dough, 481 substituting kosher salt for, 7 substituting sea salt for, 7

table sugar. See granulated sugar tapered French rolling pins, 287 tapioca starch (tapioca flour) about, 7 for meringues, 173–174 quantity and weight measures of, 497 tart(s) The Best-Ever Chess Tarts, 285 fruit. See fruit tarts Herb-Crusted Goat Cheese Tart, 274–275 tartaric acid, in baking powder, 46 tearing of meringues, preventing, 190 temperature bacterial activity in bread dough and, 434 for baking brownies, 410 of bread dough, 434–435 of butter and bowl for creaming cake mixing method, 122 coating of flour by fat and, 346 combining cool chocolate with ice-cold ingredients and, 104 for cooking cream pie fillings, 335 for cooking custard, 328 cooling chocolate rapidly and, 106–107 of cream for ganache, 101 for creaming cake mixing method, 121, 122 of eggs for creaming cake mixing method, 122 of fat, for flakey breads, 490 fermentation in bread and, 434 flavor of bread and, 434 of foam for génoise, 221–222 for gelatin added to whipping cream, 320 for mixing bread dough, 434–435 of oven. See oven temperature overheating chocolate and, 92 room, in U.S. homes, 122 for soufflé bases, 195, 196 for sourdough starters, 459–460, 463 testing cakes for doneness and, 136 texture of fat and, 346 for whipping cream, 318–319 yeast activity and, 434, 478–479

530

Index

tempering chocolate, 104–107 checking the temper and, 107 easy tempering and, 105 low-temperature, 105–106 old-fashioned method for, 106–107 tempering machines for, 107 tenderness artificial sweeteners and, 79 cake mixing method and, 120 of cookies, fat and, 390 dissolved-sugar cake mixing method and, 134 fats and, 69, 70 of pastry crusts, 296, 345–346, 347, 350, 353, 355 texture of brownies, 410 cake mixing method and, 120, 134 of cookies, 390–392, 393–396, 405 of custard, starch and, 331–332 fat and, 390–392 flour type and, 60, 61, 62–63 leaveners and, 405 liquid and, 31 oven temperature and, 136 potato starch and, 62–63 sugar and, 73, 393–396 thaumarins, 77 thermometers, instant-read, to test cakes for doneness, 136 thin chocolate, 88 thinning of dishes with egg yolks, alpha-amylase and, 110, 335 thyme, yeast activity and, 479 toppings Honey Mascarpone Cream, 270–271 meringue. See pie meringues Rum Drizzle, 76 Sour Cream Topping, 301 streusel, 316–318 Streusel Topping, 317–318 whipped cream, 142, 318–323 Whipped Cream Topping, 321 truffles, 102–104 Famous Smoothest-Ever Truffles with Chambord and Macadamia Dust, 103–104 tube pan for pound cakes, 15 turbinado sugar, 76 in cookies, 397

turkey Turkey Gougère, 257–258 two-stage cake mixing method, 126–127 Magnificent Moist Golden Cake (Two-Stage Method), 126–127

U
ultra-pasteurized cream, whipping, 319 unbleached flour for bread, 469–470 characteristics of, 62 quantity and weight measures of, 495 unsweetened chocolate, 86 USDA National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference, 2, 495

V
vacherins, 174 vanilla extract for buttercreams, 147 vanilla wafers. See cookie crumbs; crumb crusts Velvety Ganache Glaze, 98–99 vital wheat gluten, 476 vitamin C in bread, 432, 480 volume, measuring ingredients by, 6

W
wacky cake Shirley’s Crazy Cake, 83–84 Wakefield, Ruth, 373–374 walnuts Blueberries with Honey Mascarpone Cream in Walnut-Oat Meringue, 183–184 Chocolate-on-Chocolate: Dark Moist Cake with ChocolateWalnut Frosting, 113–114 Chocolate-Walnut Frosted Golden Layer Cake, 41–42 Cinnamon Walnut Oatmeal Cookies, 379–380 Dena’s Great Apple-Walnut Muffins, 129–131

E-Z Delicious Chocolate-Nut Crust, 278–279 Golden, Moist Carrot Cake, 71–72 Improved Tunnel of Fudge Cake, 74–75 Lava Cookies, 400–401 Old New England Hermit Bars, 405–407 quantity and weight measures of, 496 Shirley’s Version of Pop Corriher’s Original Applesauce Cake, 54–55 Super Rich Espresso Brownies, 415–416 Sweet Pears and Crunchy, Roasted Walnut Muffins, 133–134 water. See also liquids for bread, 481 in emulsions, 210 for meringues, 172–173 for pâte à choux, 242, 243 to produce gluten in cookie dough, 421, 426 waterproof pastry crusts, 296–297, 298, 324–325, 345, 351 weeping of meringues, 168, 189, 191 weight(s) in baker’s formulas, 29–31 for ingredients, list of, 495–497 measuring ingredients by, 6, 31 used in this book, 2 wheat ash content of, 476 durum (semolina). See semolina flour hard, 471 soft, 468–469, 471 spring, 468, 470, 471 strains of, amount of protein in flour and, 468–469 winter, 468–469, 471 “Whip it” stabilizer, 319 whipped cream, 318–323 at-a-glance summary chart, 321 for génoise, 221 icings and toppings, 142, 318–323 incorporating into other ingredients, 320 liquid draining from, 319

Index

531

whipped cream (cont.) overwhipping, 320 in pound cakes, 19–29 stabilizers for, 319–320 Whipped Cream Topping, 321 white chocolate, 88, 90 Bali’s Alabaster Chocolate Tower, 88–89 Shirley’s Not-So-Sconey Scones, 155–156 Taste Sensation Lemon-White Chocolate Butter Cookies, 389–390 tempering, 105 White Chocolate Cream Cheese Icing, 144–145 white confectionery coating, 90 White Lily flour in cookies, 385 protein content of, 372, 377 quantity and weight measures of, 495 self-rising, 61, 63, 151 white pepper, quantity and weight measures of, 497 whole-egg buttercreams, 210, 213–215 whole-grain breads, 475–476 whole-wheat bread Land of Milk and Honey Whole Wheat, 483–485 wild yeast, 478 pre-ferments with. See sourdough starters wild yeast levain. See sourdough starters

Williams, Chuck, 151 winter wheat, 468–469, 471 Wondra. See instant flour wrapping cakes, 150

X
xylitol, 77

Y
yeast. See baker’s yeast; sourdough starters; wild yeast yeast breads, 429–494 Anadama Bread, 474–475 Baguettes Made with Poolish, 448–450 baker’s percentages for, 432, 436 barley malt syrup for, 477 Basic Dough Made with Biga, 456 Cheese ’n’ Rice Bread, 444–446 Ciabatta with Biga, 453–454 dairy products in, 482–485 fat in. See fat in bread flakey, 490–494 Flakey, Buttery Croissants, 490–494 flavor of, 480 flour for. See flour for bread Focaccia Farcita, 458–459 Fougasse with Biga, 457–458 Land of Milk and Honey Whole Wheat, 483–485 lecithin in, 480

malted barley flour in, 477 malt extract in, 477 methods for. See bread-making methods milk in, 482–485 order of combining ingredients for, 485 Rustic Boules Made with Poolish, 450–452 salt in, 481–482 Semolina Bread, 471–473 shelf life of, 481 sourdough. See sourdough starter Straight Dough with Autolysis Baguettes, 436–438 Straight Dough with Autolysis Bâtards, 438–439 Straight Dough with Autolysis Fougasse, 439–441 “strange” ingredients for, 431–432 sugar in, 485 techniques for. See breadmaking techniques The Ultimate Brioche I: Light, Airy, Bread-Like Brioche, 486–487 The Ultimate Brioche II: Buttery, Cake-Like Brioche, 488–489 vitamin C in, 480 water for, 481 whole-grain, 475–476 yeast for, 477–479 yogurt with baking soda, 49

532

Index

l

scribner A Division of Simon & Schuster, Inc. 1230 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10020 Copyright © 2008 by Confident Cooking, Inc. Photographs by AKELstudio, Inc. All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form whatsoever. For information, address Scribner Subsidiary Rights Department, 1230 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10020. First Scribner hardcover edition October 2008 scribner and design are registered trademarks of The Gale Group, Inc., used under license by Simon & Schuster, Inc., the publisher of this work. For information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact Simon & Schuster Special Sales: 1-800-456-6798 or business@simonandschuster.com designed by erich hobbing Text set in Sabon Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Control Number: 2008032681 ISBN-13: 978-1-4165-6078-4 ISBN-10: 1-4165-6078-5

You're Reading a Free Preview

Descarga
scribd
/*********** DO NOT ALTER ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE ! ************/ var s_code=s.t();if(s_code)document.write(s_code)//-->