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1,2,3 Eagle Eye

1,2,3 Eagle Eye

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A different kind of fashion magazine. One that doesn't tell you what to buy, and actually makes you think. And play. Quirky, fun, yet serious at the same time (Project for MA Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion).
A different kind of fashion magazine. One that doesn't tell you what to buy, and actually makes you think. And play. Quirky, fun, yet serious at the same time (Project for MA Fashion Journalism at London College of Fashion).

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Published by: María Fernanda Piedra Fuentealba on Jan 10, 2012
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02/07/2013

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1,2,3

EaglE
EyE
January 2012
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A new ApproAch to fAshion is possible. A new ApproAch to fAshion is n e c e s s A r y. there’s An Ability to perceive And show fAshion d i f f e r e n t ly. 1,2,3 eAgle eye is t h e n A m e o f t h At skill. i t ’ s f u n A n d q u i r k y, y e t s e r i o u s At t h e sAme time. s p e c i A l ly d e s i g n e d for fAshion students And enthusiAsts. enjoy with A cup of teA.

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e d i to r i a l s ta f f
editor mAriA fernAndA piedrA

fashion estebAn pomAr

design ignAciA orellAnA

Contributors miss moss A l e x A n d r o pA lo m b o AndreA mArtínez

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Contents

editor’s letter 8 contest: how mAny Are there? 9

Article: the 99%: forecAsting the next big counter-culture 23 bougAnvilliAn 32

news & numbers 10 the mind of...Ashish 40 the mustArd pAges 11 crystAl bAll 41 An the beAst turned into beAuty 12 A little humor, by AlexAndro pAlombo 42 colour compArisons by miss moss 13 connect the dots 43 yesteryeAr’s style 14 fAshion & music: driving in cArs with boys, by lAnA del rey 15 fAshion & poetry: ode to the suit, by pAblo nerudA 16 quote of the dAy: f. scott fitzgerAld 17 did you know... 18 q&A 19 it’s not the sAme, but it’s the sAme, by AndreA mArtínez 20 report on: nobility revisited 21

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editor’s letter

Contest

how many are there?
welcome to our first issue: we are so excited. And we just can’t hide it. so we’re launching a contest. but we also want to share valuable data for fashion entrepreneurs in our News & Numbers section. The Mustard Pages is our version of the yellow pages. if you’re interested in doing collaborations and improving your portfolio, this is the place to be. And the Beast turned into Beauty is a diy on xtc. the most amazing before and after. we believe that no matter how horrendous, nasty or creepy a garment might be, there’s always a way of making it desirable, worth wearing and fun. Colour Comparisons is a feast for the eye and a lovely collaboration by miss moss. Yesteryear’s Style is property of you, the readers. we would like you to share a memory of a relative and his/her style. your mother was a hottie? prove it. we’re inexplicably drawn to songs that refer to shoes and bags, so we feature words of a lyric in Fashion & Music. it’s inaugurated by über feminine artist lana del rey. Fashion & Poetry is poetry about fashion. we’re starting with chilean nobel award winner pablo neruda. there are ideas that are worth thinking about. novelists, presidents and designers are featured in Quote of the Day. you want to impress your friends with completely random fashion information? then begin by telling them Did you know... Q&A is trivia time! It’s not the same, but it’s the same is a collaboration by Andrea martínez. you be the judge here. we’ve put together a Report on a trend that is developing: nobility revisited. serious research is done in our Article. there’s enough evidence that suggests that “the 99%” will be the next big counter-culture of the 21st century. And as any proper fashion magazine, we have a Photographic shoot. very pink. very green watermelon-y. we went inside The Mind of london based designer Ashish and you wouldn’t believe what we found out. we peep into the future in our Crystall Ball. A little humour is brought to you by illustrator Alexandro palumbo. And don’t forget to Connect the Dots.

so christmas is over, but we still feel like giving. perhaps it’s because in spain they’re celebrating epiphany or the three wise men day. Anyhow, we’re not giving anything away that easy. we’ve put a bunch of lovely belts in an even prettier vase from wimbledon car boot sale. the flower-print background is courtesy of liberty. you have to tell us how many are there (we’ve put some inside), and if you’re correct, you’ll win them all. they have been carefully hand-picked by our stylists from vintage shops all over london. follow us on twitter (@123eagleeye), join our facebook group (1,2,3 eagle eye) and e-mail us your answer to info@123eagleeye. co.uk.

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news & numbers

t h e m u s ta r d Pag e s

MA FAShIoN PhoTogRAPhY josh brandao 07 809 629931 joshjbrandao@gmail.com http://www.joshbrandao.com shelley radish clover shelleyjones@milkandblue.com www.milkandblue.com christine kreiselmaier +44 (0)7801 73 72 87 info@ckay-photography.com http://www.ckay-photography.com MAke-uP AND hAIR natalie fox 07 772506828 nataliefox-makeup@live.co.uk polly mann mua +44(0)7817 602093 hellodollyana@gmail.com http://www.pollymann.com/ neringa sutkuté neringazz@hotmail.com ASPIRINg MoDelS kate white 07 921 089256 katewhite861@hotmail.com Amrit preet amritpreet@yahoo.co.uk tobi nicole Adebajo ayodeleayanna@gmail.com STYlISTS tiziana lia +44(0)7943 066273 tiziana.lia@gmail.com http://www.wix.com/tizianalia lara kalis lou_kalis@hotmail.com http://chic-threads.blogspot.com mariana lourenço marianalou.b@hotmail.com

by the year

2035 the population

aged over 85 wil be of

One Of the cultural trends fOr 2012 is “re-engineering randomness”: in a
world dominated by personalized and niche content and experiences, a greater emphasis will be placed on re-introducing randomness, discovery, inspiration and different points of view into our worlds. An example is Airtime, which is set to launch this month and being touted as a random, real-time video chat platform where strangers will be “smashed together.” (via business news daily)

in britain. last year, the number of centenarians was of 1.4 million. “this will increase demands on the health service and require adaptations of housing and transport.” says ros Altman, director general of saga, which caters for over-50s. she added it would mean longer working lives, with people working part-time as they got older.” we believe fashion will play an important role as well. Anyone has just lost its sees a business opportunity? position to brazil and has become the world’s (via the times)

3.5 million

the UK

seventh largest economy.

the country of caipirinhas and samba snatched the sixth place and as douglas mcwilliams, chief executive of centre for economics and business research (cebr) said: “brazil has beaten the european countries at soccer for a long time, but beating them at economics is a new phenomenon.” so now the global order is usA, china, japan, germany, brazil, uk. the cebr also forecasts that by the year 2020 the uk will be surpassed by russia and india. (via the telegraph)

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and the beast turned into beauty

check out ugliness at its peak. we went to primark and acquired the most hideous tomato-red top we could find. come on, it has ruffles on the chest, wtf? it has unnecessary bell-like sleeves and it’s just too tight considering almost half of the women in the uk are size 16 and over. this monster needed a serious intervention. the surgery went more or less like this:

Dr. Stone: “scissors.” Nurse: “scissors.” Dr. Stone: “needle.” Nurse: “needle.” Dr. Stone: “thread.” Nurse: “thread.” Dr. Stone: “red lace.” Nurse: “red lace.” [to herself: god i hate repeating what she says.] Dr. Stone: “what the hell? why so little?” Nurse: “it’s very expensive dr., i got it at berwick street.” Dr. Stone: “then go get some more at bricklane.” Nurse: “will do.” Dr. Stone: “lots of tulle. we’re making the sleeves as dramatic as possible. we want the attention of people away from the ruffles.” Nurse: “tulle.” Dr. Stone: “we’re done! now go nurse and find jewelry that’ll work as a head piece.” Nurse: “i saw one on topshop last week.” Dr. Stone: “then what are you waiting for?”
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Photograph: Josh brandão model: Kate white make-up & styling: maría fernanda Piedra
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C o lo u r C o m Pa r i s o n s
by miss moss

yesteryear’s style

left: granny chic marina from marina and the diamonds. right: photograph by lindeberg feller

year 1963. Auntie chepa was 10 and she was ready for her first communion. she looks like a saint, but let me tell you, she wasn’t. kidding. but she had to go at least through five different schools. her dress was sent to her by her godmother patchy from the states. she is posing here in her santa maría institute. later she would become a lawyer and a pilot, she’s so extreme. nowadays she’s running the farm she inherited with her brothers, she drives a motorcycle, she has lost eight mobile phones and was diagnosed hiperactivity disorder a while ago.

she’s very good at cursing and she calls “guarén” people she thinks are assholes. she’s very mystical lately and she reads the gospel every morning and she sends us those e-mails with powerpoint presentations. she sings well and she can whistle too. she has a crappy handwriting that she doesn’t even understand. when she comes to visit us from chillán, she brings potatoes, onions, lima beans and eucalyptus leaves. sometimes, she doesn’t care about what people think of her, and we argue. then i hate her crocs and her sporty clothing wear, but in the end, i love her.
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fashion & musiC
driving in cArs with boys
lAnA del rey

fashion & Poetry
ode to the suit
pA b lo n e r u dA

every morning you wait, suit, over a chair, to fill yourself with my vanity, my love, my hope, my body. barely risen from sleep, i relinquish the water, enter your sleeves, my legs look for the hollows of your legs, and so embraced by your indefatigable faithfulness i rise, to tread the grass, enter poetry, consider through the windows, the things, the men, the women, the deeds and the fights go on forming me, go on making me face things working my hands, opening my eyes, using my mouth,

and so, clothes, i too go forming you, extending your elbows, snapping your threads, and so your life expands in the image of my life. in the wind you billow and snap as if you were my soul, at bad times you cling to my bones, vacant, for the night, darkness, sleep populate with their phantoms your wings and mine. i wonder if one day a bullet from the enemy will leave you stained with my blood and then you will die with me

or one day not quite so dramatic but simple, you will fall ill, clothes, with me, grow old with me, with my body and joined we will enter the earth. because of this each day i greet you with reverence and then you embrace me and i forget you, because we are one and we will go on facing the wind, in the night, the streets or the fight, a single body, one day, one day, some day, still.

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Q u ot e o f t h e day

d i d yo u K n ow. . .

“you always look so cool.” - f. scott fitzgerald

that’s what daisy buchanan told gatsby, and i read the book in school, but i honestly didn’t remember the phrase. now i want to read it again. the movie is coming out soon and there’s a 1920s trend going on, so i might just get in tune. the thing is that my friend quincy was going to celebrate his birthday and so the girls and i decided we should get him la durée macarons, v man mag, tulips and a bow tie because he wears them all the time. i intervened the latter with beads and made a ‘q’ on the lower left corner of it. i still haven’t seen him wear it... humm... Anyway, i went to scribble and found a card with the quote in white letters over a perfect black background and i thought it was the description that best suited him. And what makes quincy so cool? his joy, his mixing of colours and patterns, a breakfast at 3 am and his honesty.

...that death is fashion’s sister? And apparently, death doesn’t remember this fact... this is the opening idea in the death of fashion: the day after, by Argentinian author susana saulquin. the reason for the kinship is that both death and fashion are daughters of decay, according to giacomo leopardi (1842). in the book, death and fashion have a very interesting dialogue, which we strongly suggest you check out. later on, saulquin continues to establish how mourning in the 14th century marked a natural relationship between death and fashion, and she examines the phenomenon in different cultures throughout history. she states that fashion is esentially about change and that it requires massive diffusion for it to survive, but in a digital society, it will retrieve the ‘spirit of the individual.’

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Q&a

it’s not the same, but it’s the same
by AndreA mArtínez

Which fashion brand was banned from entering Italy, and was not able to open a shop until the year 2002? a) h&m b) Zara C) topshop
to the left ladies and gentlemen, actress and model jerry hall for dior, photographed by guy bourdain (1978). she’s wearing a fuchsia swimsuit with cute little laces, silver sandals and matching bracelet. she’s in a relaxed pose but looking very sexy, totally in control of the shark. did you notice her neckline? Amazing. to the right, lara stone in interview’s may issue of 2011, wearing a bikini by versace and styled by karl templer. photographed by mikael jansson, and with an incredible carrot mane, she seems a little haunted by the idea that she’s emulating an icon. And the shark looks like it’s going to have a hell of a back pain and will not be able to swim in a while (notice its fin). so who’s the winner? is the homage more exciting than the original? who’s knocked down in this round?

clue: “the industry professionals felt challenged. for the first time, the company that ripped them off thoroughly, was defying them from the heart of their kingdom. it was a declaration of war, or at least a threat. even the textile unions organised protests throughout the streets of milan. giorgio Armani himself talked to the press on behalf of the honour of italian fashion.” source: la mode racontée à ceux qui la portent, mariepierre lannelongue, ed. hachette, 2003.

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rePort on:

nobility revisited

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Knights, queens and stain glass are appearing everywhere. I feel like I’m in the Middle Ages. Maybe it’s because I was in Oxford recently? No way, the signs I’ve seen are coming from various directions. This past October I saw that the cover of W art issue featured Nicki Minaj as a rococo painting (1). Then in the 2011 European MTV Awards, specifically in the MTV Voices dinner event, the walls of the place were decorated with portraits of Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Eminem as if they were some kind of royalty (2). Flare magazine just did a fashion editorial called Your Majesty where crowns, armors and swords are portrayed (3). (Continues)

juliett k., one of the most hyped girls in lookbook. nu recently showed a stain-glass print dress by blackmilk (4). All the models at louis vuitton s/s 2012 had little tiaras or headbands as part of their hairdo (5). topshop is currently selling a burnished silver glove (6). the national gallery is currently showing a da vinci exhibition that everyone’s talking about (7), and 400 years of the presentation of the translation of the bible to king james i was just celebrated, and queen elizabeth ii was there (8). there’s this movie in theaters called Anonymous that suggests that lord oxford wrote shakespeare’s plays... i believe that this celebration of the past has an explanation in a quote i read a month ago. “romanticism is

a sign of crisis, the longing for tradition, for better times. when tomorrow has no appeal, two directions remain: the path inward and the path back” (barbara vinken, 1993). so why is this happening now? most likely, it’s because the present doesn’t look good and the future is not auspicious at all. uk has the worst job crisis in 25 years (yesterday’s headline in the papers) and the world is watching how leaders from different countries are being removed from office or overthrown. the ‘icon toppling’ trend that faith popcorn predicted a while ago, is going on right now. And it’s a little scary how forecasts become real.

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artiCle The 99%: foreCasting the next big C o u n t e r - C u lt u r e
wo r d s : m A r í A f e r n A n dA p i e d r A f.

‘The Outraged’ the name comes from the book indignez-vous (2010) by stéphane frédéric hessel. he is a diplomat, ambassador, writer, concentration camp survivor, former french resistance fighter and bCra agent, and he participated in the editing of the universal declaration of human rights of 1948. the text encourages young people to feel indignant because of the gap between the very rich and the very poor, france’s treatment of its illegal immigrants, the need to re-establish a free press, the need to protect the environment, importance of protecting the french welfare system, and the plight of Palestinians, recommending that people read the september 2009 goldstone report. he calls for peaceful and nonviolent insurrection.

Heavy protests expected for spring and fall there have been several indicators throughout the world that suggest that the coherent dominant culture of capitalism is in crisis and being questioned. the first big sign happened in may 2011 in spain, when 20,000 people gathered in madrid in a civic movement called 15-m or the outraged. it promotes a real democracy exempt from the bipartisanship of the psoe and pp and the control of banks and corporations, as well as an authentic separation of powers. then in june 2011, a young crowd in their twenties and thirties called by the press the ‘aganaktismeni’ (outraged), occupied sintagma square in the heart of Athens, greece. besides expressing their disapproval of the economic measures announced by the government which include privatizations, they rejected the idea that in their first formal job they would earn a 600 euro salary, and they’re concerned that the possibility of completing a masters is non-existent for the majority of students. in chile, the educational system is being highly criticized by college and high school students since may 2011. they have demanded through massive and creative demonstrations the right to a free hig-her education and less involvement of the private sector on the subject.

on september 17, 2011 there was a widely covered protest in new york, known as occupy wall street. inspired by the outraged of spain and the Arab spring, and catalyzed by the late2000s financial and subprime mortgage crisis, the now international movement is preoccupied with the economic and social inequality of the world. they want ‘more and better jobs, more equal distribution of income, bank reform, and a reduction of the influence of corporations on politics.’ the political slogan “99%” refers to the concentration of wealth among the top 1% of income earners compared to the other 99 percent of the population, and the movement has assumed the representation of the latter. finally, a smaller but not less important event took place in harvard university this past november. the students of the class introduction to economy -led by economist gregory mankiw, former adviser of g.w. bushcomplained about the content and approach of the lecture, denouncing in a letter they gave to their professor, how ‘the course espouses a specific—and limited—view of economics’ and how they believed it ‘perpetuates problematic and inefficient systems of economic inequality in our society today’. they left the auditorium as they handed in the missive.

The responsible for the storm the common denominator to all these events, is the presence of youth. one that feels left out and hopeless: ‘million young people out of work as unemployment hits 17-year high’ several uk newspapers have declared just a few weeks ago. And whenever in history youth has shared this sentiment and defy the mainstream, along with a similar dress code, musical interests, rituals and argot, they have become known as a subculture. only this time around, it has planetary dimensions. the internet activism and the press coverage has made it possible. that is how we too have learned that it is a non-violent movement and eco-friendly. it is serious about anticonsumption and intellectual at its core. but who exactly are they? what do they believe in? what activities do they carry out? what use of material artifacts -dressdo they make? whereabouts is their territorial space? what music are they into? An interview encompassing these questions was conducted to four random people outside st. paul’s cathedral in london, where the occupy movement uk has a camp. photographs of the individuals were taken as well.

we’re witnessing the birth of a major counter-culture of the 21st century. in the past, the reunion of certain economic, social, political, and anthropological conditions contributed to the development of subcultures like the teddy boys or the punks. today, those same circumstances and a strong ideology are helping shape the occupy global movement and its defenders -”the 99%”- as the natural successor of those groups. the style of the protesters is still in an embryonic stage and less ‘spectacular’ compared to the ones that came before it. however, it is safe to say that the dress of this new essentially youth culture is beginning to fulfill its function as a a kind of ‘resistance’ (cohen, 2002) and it’s starting to flirt with bricolage (levi-strauss, 1966; 1969).

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subject1nathan cravens27 no formal education from texas usa.

MFP ---------------------- What do you believe in? Do you have any values? CRF ---------------------- I believe in people and the right to equality. I believe in nature and its power over mankind. MFP ---------------------- What activities do you carry out? CRF ---------------------- I’m working in the tea tent. MFP ---------------------- Could you please describe your clothes and say where they come from? CRF ---------------------- I took the coat from a friend who lives in a squat... My mom bought the sweater and the shirt in a charity shop... These are women’s jeans that I found somewhere... The shoes [United Nude] come from the free shop here in the camp. Before them, I wore the same rubber sandals since July... The knitted hat was given to me by this shaman lady called Hannah, and she got it from a 1960s protestant... MFP ---------------------- What would you describe as your territorial space? CRF ---------------------- I’ve just been in South America... I’m a traveller. I’ll go back to Argentina... I like how there’s a real sense of community. Then in February, I’ll go to Brazil to a big hippie gathering called ‘Rainbow’. Then I’ll be on a eight month caravan with horses and we’ll go up to Guatemala touring eco-villages... MFP ---------------------- I’m curious as to how you’ll support yourself during all that time? CRF ---------------------- I’m sponsored by a multi-national corporation... But I’m not a hippie-crite living with mom’s and dad’s credit card... MFP ---------------------- What kind of music are you into? CRF ---------------------- Jazz and blues.

MFP ---------------------- What do you believe in? Do you have any values? NC ------------------------ I support free and open community. MFP ---------------------- What activities do you carry out? NC ------------------------ I hang out here in the library tent, I compile books... I’m writing one actually, called “Economics, Happiness and Robots: A commoner’s perspective.” If you look up in a search engine ‘P2P Foundation’, you’ll arrive to this link... Look my name in it, and you’ll be able to read my essays. MFP ---------------------- Could you please describe your clothes and say where they come from? NC ------------------------ I received my corduroy jacket as a donation... My gloves were a gift from a lady called Kiki. I have two pins... Only the ones that are truly committed to the movement wear them. One says ‘occupy’, the other is a dove that symbolizes peace or a new beginning... It marks the end of the flood -a bad thing-, and at the same time a fresh start. Kinda like this movement. Hopefully there’s a new beginning... My green scarf is from a free shop called Kew Eco, and the red one was also a gift from Kiki. The jumper is from my friend Allure. The shirt is from a charity shop. I sewed the buttons... They come from a hobby store. My jeans are from Kew Eco too. My prescription glasses are Emporio Armani... And my golfer’s shoes, they were £1 in Richmond, so I guess not too much exploitation there... I would like that those who are here all the time, had customized uniforms... MFP ----------------------- What would you describe as your territorial space? NC ------------------------- Before the camp, I was in West London, in a green field with woods... I go back there every Monday... I’ve been here six weeks... At night, I go to the Bank of Ideas. MFP ----------------------- What kind of music are you into? NC ------------------------- Minimalist, electronic, house. 26

subject2crazy red fox 29 traveller activist half italian half scottish.
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subject3charlotte17 college student of french sociology and english literature from england.

MFP ---------------------- What do you believe in? Do you have any values? S ---------------------- I believe in community, sharing, caring... MFP ---------------------- What activities do you carry out? S ---------------------- I too hang by the kitchen, the first-aid and info tent... I have my own protest thing going on... MFP ---------------------- Could you please describe your clothes and say where they come from? S ---------------------- Um, this two hoodies I’ve had them forever... The shirt’s from a charity shop. The joggings are SD. This is my sister’s jumper... The shoes come from the free shop of the camp. The mask comes from that movie Vendetta, did you see it? By wearing it, we show that who we are is not important, but what really matters is what we want, and we want everything for everyone. MFP ---------------------- What would you describe as your territorial space? S ---------------------- This camp... [he looks at Charlotte] We met here... MFP ---------------------- What kind of music are you into? S ---------------------- 90s drum ‘n bass, before it became mainstream...

MFP ---------------------- What do you believe in? Do you have any values? C ---------------------- I believe in this spirit of community... MFP ---------------------- What activities do you carry out? C ---------------------- I just hang by the kitchen, the Bank of Ideas and I go to the General Assembly at 7 pm. MFP ---------------------- Could you please describe your clothes and say where they come from? C ---------------------- The scarf is my mom’s... It’s from Primark I guess... The coat is from UNIQLO. The shirts belong to friends of mine and these are my DM’s. MFP ---------------------- What would you describe as your territorial space? C ---------------------- The camp... And they let us hang here in Starbucks... MFP ---------------------- What kind of music are you into? C ---------------------- Punk, riot [political] folk. 28

subject4spyro17 college student of Psychology healthcare and hairdressing, from england.
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In the presence of something old, something new it is already possible to see in this sub-culture ‘a distinctive shape and structure’ that makes it identifiably different from its ‘parent culture’ whether this one is a middle or working class culture (hall, 2006). All of the interviewed subjects share to some extent the same ideals and they’re physically living them together in a group of organised tents (info tent, library tent, tent city university, kitchen tent, etc.). A newspaper called “the occupied times of london” informs recent and future events, as well as debates inside their system. the movement is moving from canvas to concrete as a building has been occupied and renamed as “the bank of ideas”. offices are being set up in that location. they held general Assemblies everyday to talk and discuss issues and there is a ‘discussion facilitator’ instead of a leader. they even have developed hand signals to communicate intentions,. the group is also distinguished by age and generation (25 years average). they have ‘distinctive activities and focal concerns’ such as protests, strikes and picketing. ‘it is important to stress that it continues to exist within, and coexist with, the more inclusive culture of the class from which they spring’ as they ‘belong to the same families, go to the same schools, work at much the same jobs, live down the same mean streets as their peers and parents’ (hall, 2006). Resistance the 99% are making powerful ‘attempts to resist the power of bourgeois [capitalist] hegemony by consciously
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adopting behaviour that appears threatening to the establishment (hall, 2006) and they are carrying out an actual ‘resistance’ as well through their style. it is not a ‘symbolic or magical [resistance], in the sense of not being an actual, successful solution to whatever is the problem’ (ibid). the dress of the 99% is a solution or an ‘attempt to solve the problems arising from class contradictions’ (ibid). the gift-loan-charity shop origin of the different clothing items of the majority of the interviewed subjects suggest a rejection, alternative and an answer to a mass produced-made in china-disposable fashion (problem). likewise, big fashion labels are not in tune with their spirit, except for a couple of subjects. the style of each individual is unique. there isn’t an homogenous or recognizable ‘occupant look’ yet. it is in an early stage of development. holes, layering and mixing various elements that do not match is a constant throughout most of subjects. the style is still reminiscent of a grunge or hippie aesthetic, but it’s a ‘sad’ one as opposed to the latter, due to its colours and carelessness. Bricolage relatively small objects -the mask of guy fawkes, the badge of a dove with an olive leaf- are examples of bricolage. ‘re-ordering and re-contextualisation of objects to communicate fresh meanings, within a total system of significances, which already includes prior and sedimented meanings attached to the objects used’ (levi-strauss 1966; 1969). the first element is worn traditionally the fifth of november during the celebration of bonfire night,when the gun-powder plot is remembered.

in 2005, the movie v for vendetta was released, and it showed a futuristic london society, oppressed by the government. one of the main characters, which fought for freedom, wore a guy fawkes mask to hide his disfigured face. since then, ‘Anonymous’ activists use it in public events. now it is becoming a repeated image in the occupy movement, because the identity of the bearer is unimportant, ‘but what really matters is what we want, and we want everything for everyone’ (as subject 4 previously explained). if this is the real reason behind it, then any type of mask would work for that aspiration. Anyhow, it carries a novel significance to the members of the movement; that of invisibility and ambiguity. the latter object, has been taken from its christian milieu, but continues to be a vehicle for ‘hope’. the ‘new beginning’ for the 99%, has to do with a society free of capitalism. Some final thoughts once again, ‘youth is a metaphor for social change’ (hall, 2006) and it’s been a long time since we observed this phenomenon. in another scale, a complex set of of cultural and social experiences and practices are articulating the fashion of the 99% counter-culture, and simultaneously, the reverse is also taking place. it’s an exciting yet sad time in fashion history: perhaps this particular group of people crystallizes through their style, like no other has done before, a worldly feeling of discontent. will it remain as a sub-culture or will it penetrate the mainstream? could it be the first case of subculture that loses it prefix and turns into culture?
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bougAnVILLIAN
photogrApher: franCo barria hoost styling: esteban Pomar and maría fernanda Piedra mAke up & hAir: Carmen bottinelli AssistAnt photogrApher: randy Ceballos model: samara donda (rebel)

top, tape from love, lust & lingerie ring, the strip gas mask, stylist’s own
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top, love, lust & lingiere pants, reciclage i love shoes, topshop
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dress, topshop bracelet, the strip tights, monarch shoes, rude sunwo
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top, love, lust & lingerie skirt, rude sunwoo shoes, nostalgic
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blazer, reciclage i love top, topshop skirt, topshop shoes, rude sunwo
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top, reciclage i love skirt, nostalgic shoes, rude sunwo
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the mind of

C rys ta l b a l l

ashish

indian born, london based designer Ashish gupta shared his musings on a monday morning.

sooner than later there will be an app for iphone that will be able to learn the origin of clothes just by photographing it. imagine you’re walking down the street and suddenly you see a girl with a wicked style, so you place your phone in a way she won’t think you’re a sick stalker-paparazzo, you click and pronto! you know where that wonderful jacket is from. the app could tell you as well where is the closest shop, sizes and colours available, etc. if fashion brands aren’t working on this right now, they’re not thinking much about the future, are they? for this to happen, clothes should carry a kind of chip or tiny qr code. i believe that google goggles is very close

to developing something like this. i told my friend young eun these musings and she said penny from the big bang theory had already come up with a shoe app. then i remembered that when i went to the v&A to see “the power of making”, there was the dress in the image above by thorunn Arnadottir. it mixes qr codes and African culture, and was made for icelandic pop star kali from steed lord, and when photographed with a smartphone, it directs the user to the band’s music video and site. pretty cool right? but what are we, common mortals, ready to share with strangers?

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a little humour
by A l e x A n d r o pA lo m b o

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