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FREE Hex Open Bag Frame Tutorial

FREE Hex Open Bag Frame Tutorial

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Publicado porjetbin

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Published by: jetbin on Aug 27, 2011
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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In this project you will pick up/apply these bag making skills

• • • • •

Use an internal Hex Open bag frame – very practical and secure Sew a zip in the bag lining – adds value and security Sew with poly. Boning – which helps provide structure Sew a flat bottom into a bag - so stuff doesn’t roll around in the bags Sew a fabric strap - with D-rings and spring lever clips•

Here’s How I put it all together Shopping list (as if you were shopping and not using your own stash fabrics)
• • • • • •

• • • •

½ yard of Sweet Home in kiwi fabric for the exterior and strap. And matching thread. ½ yard of Clean Sweep in Kiwi fabric for the exterior and (optional) inner pocket. 1 x 14” Hex Open bag frame. 1 x 6 ¾” x 22 ½” Grid Bag Bottom 1 x 7” Zip for optional inner pocket 1 x 42” x 2” strip of double sided fusible fleece (112cm x 10cm) for padding the strap (this is optional; I prefer to use this for all of my fabric straps, it makes fabric straps comfy). ½ yard of firm iron interfacing (stabiliser) ½ yard of heavy sew-in interlining 2 x 1” bronze bolt snaps 2 x 0.5” bronze D-rings·

NB: all seam allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated. Pattern includes 1cm seam allowance. 1. Make up your pattern – there is only one pattern piece for this bag. This pattern is shown halved.

From the pattern piece cut: 2 pieces of exterior fabric. 2 pieces Clean Sweep fabric (lining). 2.5” x 6” firm iron-on interfacing for optional pocket 1 x 3” x 2” strip for shoulder handle loops interlining.5” x 6” Clean Sweep (lining fabric) for optional inner pocket 1 x 10. 2 x 10. Cut out other fabric pieces: • • • • 1 x 42” x 4” strip of Sweet Home (exterior fabric) for the shoulder strap. 2 pieces firm iron-on. Make a comfy shoulder strap . Use chalk to mark a Hinge Marking (22cm up from the bottom edge) on the sloping side of all fabric pieces. Double your fabric over and place the pattern on the fold before cutting out. 3.Make up your pattern as shown in the photo. Then take one of the .follow these comfy bag handle instructions (see step 3) to the letter (except you do not need to divide the strap into 2 lengths). and 2 pieces Heavy sew-in interlining.

Make a sandwich with the 2 exterior pieces (right sides together). 4. Stitch the end of the strap down in a box formation for strength. and the heavy sewin on the outside of the sandwich. and do not stitch the ends of the loops.ends of your finished strap and thread it through the ring of one of the bronze bolt snaps to 1”. Make the handle loops – make up the handles loops in the same way as for the shoulder strap.5cm) down from the top edge as shown in the photo (jeez that’s a mouthful! Hope it all makes sense). (in the previous step) except there is no need for fusible fleece. Take one of handle loops and thread it through one of the bronze D-rings. 5.iron the firm iron-on interfacing onto the wrong side of the exterior fabric. Sew exterior bag . Fold handle loop in half and stitch handle loop (with ring still attached) onto the bag exterior bag (one handle loop each for bag front and bag back) as shown… Sew 1 handle loop on the front exterior. you need to divide the strap into 2 equal lengths. Starting from one of . and the other on the back exterior onto (right hand side) side edge 1 6/8” (4. Match all edges and pin all together.

Stitch sides and bottom from hinge marking to hinge marking as shown by wonky pink arrow.the hinge markings sew the sides and bottom of the exterior finishing at the other hinge marking as shown by my wonky pink arrow.for side support (this will help the bag to stand up on it's own) . Sew polyester boning in side seams . 6.

5” up from the bottom edge just like I have. my final measurement came came to 6”).This is a close up view of the side edge of the exterior. We need to make the boning slightly short of the 2 markings so the bag will move naturally…you’ll see what I mean later. Cut 4 pieces of polyester boning to that measurement and stitch the boning into each layer of the side seams in the same position as shown in the photo… . and minus 6/8” that measurement (or in other words 1cm short at both ends. Now measure the distance between the hinge marking and the new marking. See that marking at the bottom of the pic? Make that same mark 1.

Turn exterior bag right side out.Here’s me stitching boning into 1 of the layers of the side seams. Measure 1. Stitch along the marked line and trim the excess fabric 1cm for the seam.5”down from the tip of the triangle mark the line. Flatten to form a triangle. Repeat for the other bottom corner of the exterior. 7. Create a flat bottom for your bag – take one of the corners of your exterior bag and match the side seam line with the bottom seam line.5”down from the tip of the triangle mark the line with chalk and hold with your fingers. make sure the line is a right angle to the seam line that runs down the center of the triangle. Measure 1. Not a lot of room in my 1cm seam allowance is there? That's 'cos I like to sew right on the edge – man! Hold the boning in place with your fingers as you sew. .

8. Use fine scissors to cut through those markings on the bag bottom. right through into the holes made in the grid bag bottom. and push the prongs down away from each other with your thumb. Using those markings make corresponding markings on the grid bag bottom for the purse feet. Turn bag right side out.Stitch along the line you just made and trim off excess triangle as shown. place grid bag bottom inside the base of the exterior bag (I like to stick it down with super strong double sided tape). The bag feet are handy for keeping the bag bottom secured down. Push each bag foot into the fabric slits. Place grid bag bottom and purse feet into exterior bag – Measure up the base of the bag for the grid bag bottom and cut to bag bottom to size. Make chalk markings on the exterior bag base for the bag feet (not too close. and not too far from bag corners). . Turn the bag upside down and using a stitch ripper carefully make tiny slits into the bag feet makings on the exterior bag. Positioning it carefully.

Slip exterior bag into lining bag – the right sides of the exterior and the lining bags should now be touching each other. 9. 7” up from the bottom edge.I usually place the bag bottom onto the base of the bag and then make markings for the bag feet using a pen… This way I can mark the bag and the bag bottom at the same time. it’s not very difficult!) I placed my pocket centrally in the lining. . Here’s my zippered pocket in the my lining (I like having a loo brush in my bag heh!) 10. Sew lining – if you want to insert an inner pocket in to the lining do so now by following these zippered pocket instructions (give it a go. Sew the lining bag in the same way as in step 5 EXCEPT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE AN 8CM OPENING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE LINING and you don’t need poly boning in the lining either.

Pop the exterior bag into the lining bag. Clip off top corners off. Bring the right sides of one of the lining and the exterior flaps together and pin. Stitch the 2 flaps of the bag – you’ll see that there are 4 layers which haven’t been stitched yet (2 layers from the lining. these will become flaps. . Repeat with other purse flap. Sew all around the sides and top edge stopping at the stitching on the lining. 11. and 2 layers from the exterior).

Pin the lining and the exterior flaps together and stitch. Start and stop stitching and the hinge markings (or in other words. . start and stop stitching at the previous stitching made in step 5).

because that way it’s easier to push all of the layers back and out of the way. Pop the lining into the exterior bag. I love this bit. . and give everything a good iron. push the corners out. You’ll see what I mean when you come to do it… 12.Start stitching the flap on one of the hinge markings. I like to sew the purse flaps on the lining side. Pull the exterior bag out through the gap in the lining – yep.

Double check that casing will accommodate the frame by testing.Hello bag! I’ve been expecting you! 13.push the raw edges into the hole and top stitch a few mms to edge for a neat finish. and pin. Shut yer gap! 14. Repeat with the other flap. Sew gap in lining shut . The top edge of the flap should now be almost touching the hinge marking.5” (4cm) onto the lining side. adjust if necessary. Make casing for the Hex frame – fold one of the flaps down 1. Stitch the casing a couple of mms from the edge. . press the fold.

Get yourself some pliers and a piece of leather (or thickish fabric). and pin (I know I haven’t pinned but I’m lazy). You’ll end up with a flattened pin tip and now the pin is trapped secure inside the hinge.5” (4cm) onto lining side. but they are not secured (so you can sew with them). Stitch a couple of mms from the edge from one end of the casing to the other. press. Secure the pin in one of the hinges – you’ll see that the frame already has the pins inserted into the hinges. 15. and using the leather wrapped pliers squeeze the tip of the pin (you’ll see that the tip of the pin is hollow). When sewing straight lines it helps if you haven’t drunken lots of wine. Take one of the hinges out. Take your time to stitch a straight line because your stitching is going to show on the exterior side of the bag. and open the frame (like a book). and you sew slowly without stopping (when you stop and start the line can become wobbly – well.Fold flap down 1. mine do). ensure that the pin in the hinge in fully inserted. .

16. Push the right frame through the casing until the free ends of the frame are sticking out the other end. Get your pliers again and squeeze the hinge halves together until you can insert the other pin.Squeeze the pliers to flatten the tip of the pin – think of the driver that cut you on the road the other day…grrr! Tip of pin is flattened so pin cannot escape out of the hinge. . Now we need to make up the hinge on the other side of the frame. Slip the pin into the hinge and flatten the pin tip as in the previous step (make sure the head of the pin is pointing towards the top of the bag). Insert the frame into the casing – the free end of the frame goes in first.

Rock up to your local Stitch and Bitch in style (or enjoy the envious glances on the bus) and enjoy the ‘Ohhhs and Ahhhs’ at your bag when you tell them that you made it yourself :) . Clip the shoulder handle on the handle loops and you're done!.In the frame goes… 17.

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