Basic Electronics

Blocking Diodes, Isolating Door Triggers and

Sensors, Diodes Across the Coil of Relays
Here's another installer friendly component you should always have handy. Blocking diodes (1N4001/L) are
one way valves used in electrical circuits. These are very simple devices that are often real time savers. Other
than the amperage rating of the diode, there are only three basic things to remember:

1. Cathode (side with the stripe)

2. Anode (side without the stripe)
3. Anytime the cathode is more positive than the anode, no current will
flow.

Isolating Door Triggers:

Some vehicles have two separate (-) door triggers that are isolated from each other, most commonly found on
newer GM vehicles. One is for the driver's door and the second is for the rest of the doors. Below is an example
of connecting them to one alarm trigger. If you were just to connect to one of these and not both, one or more
doors of the vehicle would not be protected by the alarm. When installing an alarm in a vehicle with this type of
door trigger (dome lamp) circuit, you must connect to both door triggers for all doors to trigger the alarm. If you
were to tie each of these together without the blocking diodes, some features of the vehicle would no longer
function properly. Some of the things that could happen are: the door chime / buzzer sounding when any door is
opened, rather than just the driver's door, or indicators in the instrument cluster showing false information as to
which door is actually opened, and so on.

This diagram would also apply to connecting the (-) outputs of two sensors, such as a glass mic and an impact
sensor, to one input of an alarm.

If you have two or more positive triggers to isolate, simply connect the anode side of each diode to each trigger
and the cathode sides to the positive input of the alarm.
Unless specified, all diodes seen in these diagrams are rated at 1 ampere (1N4001/L).

Diode across the coil of a relay:

The diode provides a path for current when the current path to the relay is interrupted (i.e. switched off). This
allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects
switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may be sensitive to voltage spikes.

SPDT and SPST Automotive Relays

SPDT Relay: (Single Pole Double Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 &
86), 1 common terminal (30), 1 normally closed terminal (87a), and one normally open terminal (87) (Figure 1).

When the coil of an SPDT relay (Figure 1) is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the
normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the
normally open terminal (87) have continuity.

The diagram below center (Figure 2) shows an SPDT relay at rest, with the coil not energized. The diagram
below right (Figure 3) shows the relay with the coil energized. As you can see, the coil is an electromagnet that
causes the arm that is always connected to the common (30) to pivot when energized whereby contact is broken
from the normally closed terminal (87a) and made with the normally open terminal (87).

When energizing the coil of a relay, polarity of the coil does not matter unless there is a diode across the coil. If
a diode is not present, you may attach positive voltage to either terminal of the coil and negative voltage to the
other, otherwise you must connect positive to the side of the coil that the cathode side (side with stripe) of the
diode is connected and negative to side of the coil that the anode side of the diode is connected.

SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil (terminals 85 &
86), 1 common terminal (30), and one normally open terminal (87). It does not have a normally closed terminal
like the SPDT relay, but may be used in place of SPDT relays in all diagrams shown on this site where terminal
87a is not used.

Dual Make SPST Relay: (Single Pole Single Throw Relay) an electromagnetic switch, consist of a coil
(terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), and two normally open terminals (87 and 87b). Dual make SPST
relays (Figure 4) are used to power two circuits at the same time that are normally isolated from each other,
such as parking lamp circuits on German automobiles.

The diagram below center (Figure 5) shows a dual make SPST relay at rest, with the coil not energized. The
diagram below right (Figure 6) shows the relay with the coil energized. The coil is an electromagnet that causes
the arms that are always connected to the common (30) to pivot when energized whereby contact is made with
the normally open terminals (87 and 87b).

Diodes are most often used across the coil to provide a path for current when the current path to the relay is
interrupted (i.e. switched off, coil no longer energized). This allows the coil field to collapse without the voltage
spike that would otherwise be generated. The diode protects switch or relay contacts and other circuits that may
be sensitive to voltage spikes.

Why do I want to use a relay and do I really need to? Anytime you want to switch a device which draws
more current than is provided by an output of a switch or component you'll need to use a relay. The coil of an
SPDT or an SPST relay that we most commonly use draws very little current (less than 200 milliamps) and the
amount of current that you can pass through a relay's common, normally closed, and normally open contacts
will handle up to 30 or 40 amps. This allows you to switch devices such as headlights, parking lights, horns,
etc., with low amperage outputs such as those found on keyless entry and alarm systems, and other components.
In some cases you may need to switch multiple things at the same time using one output. A single output
connected to multiple relays will allow you to open continuity and/or close continuity simultaneously on
multiple wires.

There are far too many applications to list that require the use of a relay, but we do show many of the most
popular applications in the pages that follow and many more in our Relay Diagrams - Quick Reference
application. If you are still unclear about what a relay does or if you should use one after you browse through
the rest of this section, please post a question in the12volt's install bay. (We recommend Tyco (formerly Bosch) or Potter &
Brumfield relays for all of the SPDT and SPST relay applications shown on this site.)
Resistors, like diodes and relays, are another of the electronic parts that should have a section in the installer's
parts bin. They have become a necessity for the mobile electronics installer, whether it be for door locks,
praking lights, timing circuits, remote starts, LED's, or just to discharge a stiffening capacitor.

Resistors "resist" the flow of electrical current. The higher the value of resistance (measured in ohms) the lower
the current will be.

Resistors are color coded. To read the color code of a common 4 band 1K ohm resistor with a 5% tolerance,
start at the opposite side of the GOLD tolerance band and read from left to right. Write down the corresponding
number from the color chart below for the 1st color band (BROWN). To the right of that number, write the
corresponding number for the 2nd band (BLACK). Now multiply that number (you should have 10) by the
corresponding multiplier number of the 3rd band (RED) (100). Your answer will be 1000 or 1K. It's that easy.

* If a resistor has 5 color bands, write the corresponding number of the 3rd band to the right of the 2nd before
you multiply by the corresponding number of the multiplier band. If you only have 4 color bands that include a
tolerance band, ignore this column and go straight to the
multiplier.

The tolerance band is usually gold or silver, but some may have
none. Because resistors are not the exact value as indicated by the
color bands, manufactures have included a tolorance color band to
indicate the accuracy of the resistor. Gold band indicates the
resistor is within 5% of what is indicated. Silver = 10% and None
= 20%. Others are shown in the chart below. The 1K ohm resistor in the example (left), may have an actual
measurement any where from 950 ohms to 1050 ohms.

If a resistor does not have a tolerance band, start from the band closest to a lead. This will be the 1st band. If
you are unable to read the color bands, then you'll have to use your multimeter. Be sure to zero it out first!
 Resistor Color Codes
Band Color 1st Band # 2nd Band # *3rd Band # Multiplier x Tolerances ± %
Black 0 0 0 1
Brown 1 1 1 10 ± 1%
Red 2 2 2 100 ±2%
Orange 3 3 3 1000
Yellow 4 4 4 10,000
Green 5 5 5 100,000 ± 0.5 %
Blue 6 6 6 1,000,000 ± 0.25 %
Violet 7 7 7 10,000,000 ± 0.10 %
Grey 8 8 8 100,000,000 ± 0.05 %
White 9 9 9 1,000,000,000
Gold 0.1 ±5%
Silver 0.01 ± 10 %
None ± 20 %

 
Power Door Locks info & diagrams 
Single Wire Systems  

There may be one, two, or three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any, and only changes in 
voltage and /or resistance on one wire to lock and unlock. Some of these will open a circuit to lock and ground a wire to 
unlock. Others will show a difference in resistance to ground or positive 12 V DC during lock or unlock or both. Vacuum 
type locks will change polarity on a single wire to lock and unlock. 

Nissan's Single Wire '91-'95 using 1 relay and 1 diode (Type F door lock)
On the '91-'95 300ZX and the '92-'95 240SX, locate the lock/unlock wire in the driver's kick panel or door
jamb. When this wire is cut, or opened, the doors will lock. When this wire is grounded. the doors will unlock.
If you have positive door lock outputs read next.

Nissan's Single Wire '91-'95 using 2 relays (Type F door lock)

On the '91-'95 300ZX and the '92-'95 240SX, locate the lock/unlock wire in the driver's kick panel or door
jamb. When this wire is cut, or opened, the doors will lock. When this wire is grounded. the doors will unlock.
If you have positive door lock outputs from the alarm or keyless entry, connect the sides of the coils shown
connected to (+)12 VDC to ground and the positive door lock outputs to the respective terminals of the relays.
Ford Probe
Locate the single wire from the switch. When (+) 12 VDC is applied to this wire the doors will lock. When (+)
12 VDC is applied through a 4.7 K ohm resistor, the doors will unlock. If your alarm or keyless entry has
positive outputs, connect the resistor in series to the lock output wire with a diode and another diode to the
unlock output with the cathodes of each towards the single lock/unlock wire.

Dodge Caravan (1996 - 2000)

Locate the white w/green wire in the harness under the body control module. When ground is applied to this
wire through a 1.5 K ohm resistor the doors will lock. When ground is applied to this wire through a 249 ohm
resistor the doors will unlock.
 Dodge Caravan (2001 - 2005)
Locate the purple/green wire in connector 3, pin 21 at the body control module. When ground is applied to this
wire through a 5.3 K ohm resistor the doors will lock. When ground is applied to this wire through a 2 K ohm
resistor the doors will unlock.

3 Wire Negative  

There are three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has continuity to ground at all 
times. Another wire only shows continuity to ground during lock and (+) 12 V DC at rest. The last wire only shows 
continuity to ground during unlock and (+) 12 V DC at rest. 

3 Wire Positive Door Locks

This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
4 Wire Reversal Door Locks
In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.
Actuators / Reverse Polarity
This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.

Vacuum Type Door Locks

Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).
 Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.

Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.

3 Wire Positive  

There are three wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has constant (+) 12 V DC at all 
times. Another wire only shows (+) 12 V DC during lock and ground at rest. The last wire only shows (+) 12 V DC during 
unlock and ground at rest. 

 
3 Wire Positive Door Locks
This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.

4 Wire Reversal Door Locks

In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.
5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks
Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.

Actuators / Reverse Polarity

This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.
Vacuum Type Door Locks
Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).

Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.
 Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.

4 Wire Reversal  

There are four wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One wire has constant (+) 12 V DC at all 
times. Another wire has continuity to ground at all times. A third wire reads nothing at rest, and (+) 12V DC during lock 
and continuity to ground during unlock. The fourth wire reads nothing at rest, and ground during lock and (+) 12V DC 
during unlock. 

3 Wire Positive Door Locks

This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
4 Wire Reversal Door Locks
In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.
Actuators / Reverse Polarity
This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.

Vacuum Type Door Locks

Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).
 Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.

Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.

5 Wire Alternating (+) 12 V DC  

There are four, five, or six wires in the harness not counting the illumination wire(s), if any. One or two of the wires has 
constant (+) 12 V DC at all times. One or two of the wires has continuity to ground at all times. Another wire reads 
continuity to ground at rest, and (+) 12V DC during lock. The last wire reads continuity to ground at rest, and (+) 12V DC 
during unlock. 
3 Wire Positive Door Locks
This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.

4 Wire Reversal Door Locks

In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.
5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks
Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.

Actuators / Reverse Polarity

This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.
Vacuum Type Door Locks
Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).

Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.
 Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.

Vacuum Type  

There is no external switch (switch is contained in the drivers door lock actuator) or it has three wires not counting the 
illumination wire(s), if any. One wire always shows continuity to ground. Another always shows constant (+) 12 V DC. 
The third wire changes, reading continuity to ground or (+) 12 V DC depending on the position of the door locks. 

3 Wire Positive Door Locks

This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
4 Wire Reversal Door Locks
In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.
Actuators / Reverse Polarity
This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.

Vacuum Type Door Locks

Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).
 Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.

Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.

 
Added Actuator(s)  

The two wires of the actuator(s) will normally rest at ground, if wired as shown in this diagram, but may rest at (+) 12 V 
DC. Polarity changes on one wire during lock and on the other wire during unlock.  
 
*
If you are dealing with an aftermarket door lock system, locate and measure each coil wire of the lock and unlock 
relays. Then connect to the wires that activate each relay accordingly. If the system has a relay module, it may also have 
two wires (pig tail) that will energize the coils of the internal relays. These will usually be negative inputs. Some will have 
both positive and negative inputs to work with any alarm or keyless entry without the need for additional relays. 

3 Wire Positive Door Locks

This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.
4 Wire Reversal Door Locks
In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.
Actuators / Reverse Polarity
This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.

Vacuum Type Door Locks

Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).
Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.

Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.
3 Wire Positive Door Locks
This is one of the most common type of door lock switch configurations found in most vehicles. In most cases
you will not need to add relays for this type. Most of the newer alarms and keyless entries on the market today
have both positive and negative 200 ma door lock outputs that are usually capable of activating the factory
relays. Should you need to add relays for a "3 wire negative" door lock system, just change both normally
open terminals (87) from 12V(+) to ground. If your alarm or keyless entry has positive outputs only, you will
have to connect the other side of the coils to ground and connect your outputs as shown. The lock and unlock
wires below refer to the switch wires, not the motor legs.

4 Wire Reversal Door Locks

In this case, both motor legs of the door locks are normally open. They neither rest at ground or 12v(+). The
switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to them without the use of any
relays.
5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks
Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground
directly to motor legs without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at
ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.

Actuators / Reverse Polarity

This is practically identical to the 5 wire alternating 12V(+) system above. The only difference is there's no
switch! Both motor legs rest at ground at the relays. To lock or unlock the vehicle, polarity is changed on one
motor leg.
Vacuum Type Door Locks
Found mostly on Mercedes Benz vehicles, the movement of the door lock actuators is controlled by a central
vacuum pump. The switch changes polarity on a single wire that may rest at power or ground depending on
the state of the door locks. You can duplicate this with at least a 2 second pulse. If the alarm or keyless entry
you are installing does not have a 2 second or longer duration option for the door lock outputs, do not use this
diagram (it will not work unless you incorporate a timer into this circuit).

Add Auto Lock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System

You can easily add the convenience of auto lock to any vehicle equipped with power locks without adding a
keyless entry or alarm ( or if the one you have does not have this feature). Please notice the relay on the left.
This is an inhibit to prevent the doors from locking the customer out of his vehicle. When the key is turned to
the "ignition on" position, the doors will only lock automatically if the doors are closed. If the vehicle has a
positive door trigger, change terminal #85 of the left relay to ground and connect the door trigger to #86 as
shown. For auto unlock, see next. For more info, click here.
 Add Auto Unlock without an Alarm or Keyless Entry System
Like above, you can add auto unlock to any vehicle equipped with power locks. Just connect the output of this
circuit to the vehicle's door lock circuit using the appropriate application. more info.

Special  

These applications will be similar to others, but will require additional connections, parts, or both. 

Single Pulse to Lock and Unlock

Using a mechanical latching relay like the PCB lacthing relay pictured below on the left and an SPDT relay,
you can use a single negative output to alternately lock and unlock the doors. The mechanical latching relay
only requires it's coil to be momentarily energized to change and maintain the opening or closing of it's
contacts. The SPDT relay will provide a dedicated negative output for lock when the coil is energized and a
dedicated output for unlock when it is not energized.
 Nissan Maxima 1995 - 1997 Door Locks, Double Ground Pulse Relay Diagram
If this vehicle has a factory security system, a double ground pulse to the Green/Yellow (factory disarm wire)
wire will unlock all doors. Brown wire will only unlock driver's door (alternating 12 V+). Pulse(-) to Lt.
Green/Red will lock all doors.

Toyota with Child Safety Door Lock System

Locate the child safety wire in the same harness as the lock and unlock wires. This wire will be different
colors (see below) in different models and will show ground until the lock from the switch is activated. This is
a three wire system with an additional wire that must see ground during unlock for all of the doors to unlock.
An additional relay may not be required. This will depend on the outputs of your unit. If not needed, connect
the unlock output to the wires shown on terminal #30.

Child Safety Colors

4 Runner = Red/Blue
Camry / MR2 = Blue/Red
Celica = Green
Corolla = Blue/Red
Land Cruiser = Blue/Orange
Tacoma = Blue/Black
Tundra = Red/Yellow
 
Special Applications
Constant to Momentary Output (link)

The capacitor allows the coil of the relay to be energized until the capacitor stores a charge, thus de-energizing
the coil. The resistor bleeds off the charge of the capacitor when positive voltage is removed from the other
side of the coil. You can increase the output time by simply changing the value of the capacitor. This one will
give you about a 1/2 second output.

Momentary to Constant Output (link)

Once activated by the relay on the left, the relay's coil on the right will stay energized until either ground or
12v(+) is removed. You can do this with another relay. Or try connecting to a 12v(+) switched source instead
of a constant one. Or you can have a door trigger activate a relay to break continuity. The variations are
practically endless.
Pulsed to Steady Output (link)
If you have cornering lights and want them to come on only when your turn signal is on and you do not have a
steady output, use the following for each side. This will give you a steady output while the turn signal is on.
Increasing the size of the capacitor will give you a longer output if needed.

Latched On/Off Output Using a Single Momentary Pulse (link)

Similar to the momentary to constant configuration above, we can engage and disengage the latched output
with a single pulse from a switch or an output from an alarm or remote keyless entry. The first pulse from the
switch will engage the latch. The next pulse from the switch will disengage the latch.
Here's the same configuration as the one above that you can use if you do not have any *diodes available
and/or only want to use SPDT relays. A negative output from an alarm, remote keyless entry, or other device
can be used in place of the switch shown in both of these diagrams.

Connecting Additional Devices to the Remote Turn On Wire (link)

Using a 30 amp SPDT relay, connect terminal #87 to constant 12 volts positive with a fuse rated to the sum of
the additional accessories you've added and the components you need to turn on. (If you have two fans rated at
5 amps each and a neon light rated at 10 amps, you would use a 20 amp fuse plus 200 ma for each amplifier
and processor.) Connect terminal #85 to ground, terminal #86 to the remote turn on wire from the head unit,
and terminal #30 to each accessory with an appropriate fuse. A fuse (not shown) could also be used between
the output of the relay (#30) and the remote turn on wire of the amplifiers and/or processors for extra
precaution.
Stereo to Bridged Mono Switched Outputs (link)
If your amplifier is capable of running in dual mode or mono, and is configured to run mono by using the left
channel positive and the right channel negative outputs, then the diagram to switch between stereo and mono
to the same pair of speakers (mostly woofers) is as shown below. Remember this will decrease the impedance
by 1/2 and in theory double the power output of the amplifier. Be sure to check the specifications of your
amplifier first.
Switching from Series to Parallel and Back (link)
When the relays are at rest (normally closed position) the woofer coils are wired in series. When ground is
applied to each coil (energizing the relay coils), the voice coils are wired in parallel. With 2 four ohm voice
coils you'll have an 8 ohm load at rest and a 2 ohm load when the relay coils are energized.

For each dual voice coil woofer that you want to change from series to parallel, you'll need two relays for
each. They can all be controlled from the same switch.
Switching from Stereo to Bridged Mono and Series to Parallel (link)
Combining the two configurations above with 4 woofers or 2 DVC woofers, you can change from stereo to
mono and from series to parallel. Switch A (-) is to switch between series and parallel. Switch B (-) is to
switch between stereo and mono. With both switches off, the amp is wired in stereo and each pair of woofers,
top and bottom, are wired in series. *If your amplifier configuration for stereo and mono are different than
shown, this obviously will not work. Be sure to check the specifications of your amplifier first.
One Channel to Multiple Outputs (link)
You can add multiple functions to an AUX output of an alarm or keyless entry by adding a relay in series with
the output wire as shown to any switch or accessory with an output. Only one output can be active at anytime,
the one first in the chain (bottom relay in diagram) will have priority, so if you wanted to have the ignition
from the key to have priority over the ignition from the remote start, you would connect it to the first relay and
the output of the remote start to the next and so on. Also pay attention to the top relay shown. Terminal #87a
(the default output) will be active only when none of the coils of the relays are energized. There are many
other accessories that can be used with this, including the remote turn on wire and/or power antenna wire of
your head unit.
Radio On Until Door Opened (Retained Accessory Power) (link)
If you wish to keep the radio (or any other device that is powered by an accessory circuit) on until a door is
opened, you can do so by creating a latch when the accessory is turned on with the relay shown below on the
left, then breaking ground to the latch when a door is opened as shown with the relay below on the right.
While this will keep the radio on, the entire accessory circuit will see 12V+ until a door is opened with the key
in the off position.

If you want to prevent 12V+ from feeding back into the accessory circuit or have more than one device on this
circuit and do not want all of them to stay powered, you can isolate the device you want to stay powered by
cutting the accessory wire going to it and adding two 1 amp diodes and an additional relay as shown below.
The first diode near the top left of the diagram is to prevent 12V+ from going back into the accessory circuit.
The second diode between terminals 87 and 86 prevents the radio from pulling current through the first diode.
If the second diode is not in place, the first diode will become toast. The additional relay is needed to prevent
the radio from turning off when the key is in the accessory position and a door is open.
Below is the same set up as above for positive door triggers.

Single Pulse to Lock and Unlock (link)

Using a mechanical latching relay like the PCB latching relay pictured below on the left, you can use a single
negative output to alternately lock and unlock the doors. The mechanical latching relay only requires it's coil
to be momentarily energized to change and maintain the opening or closing of it's contacts. The SPDT relay
will provide a dedicated negative output for lock when the coil is energized and a dedicated output for unlock
when it is not energized.
 Basic Remote Start Relay Diagram (link)
DO NOT INSTALL this or any other remote start system in a vehicle with a STANDARD TRANSMISSION.
The consequences should be obvious. Below is a basic relay remote start system. It is not shown with any
inhibits, nor a single trigger to activate and deactivate it, and does not have "rev protection". You are much
better off with a system you can purchase from a local dealer or retailer. They include many important
safety features and come with a warranty, unlike the one below. But if you must make one from relays, here
are the basics (shown below without the diodes across the coils). You will have to customize this to work with
the vehicle you plan to install it into. Make note of each wire's function in the harness connected to the back of
the ignition switch. You will have to duplicate these in order to have a successful installation. Only advanced
installers should attempt this. I have made several of these and they are still on the road today. I included
timers and inhibits in them to perform the same as a manufacturer's piece. But I still prefer to use theirs. It
takes less time to install from start to finish and theirs are a whole lot smaller.

 
Starter Interrupts
Normally Closed Starter Kill Relay

The basic starter kill relay diagram shown below, breaks continuity of the wire from the ignition switch to the
starter motor (or in some cases i.e.; Ford, to another relay), when the alarm is armed and the ignition is turned
on. This is the most commonly used application for disabling the starter. Click here for another starter kill
diagram.

Normally Open Starter Kill

This normally open starter kill relay application below relies on a ground from the alarm when disarmed and
12 volts (+) from the ignition to enable the driver to start the vehicle. * Note: most alarms with this feature
will not provide this grounded output when power ,12 volts (+), to the alarm is not present, even if the alarm is
grounded.
Passive Starter Kill
This is a stand alone starter kill. It does not rely on an alarm or keyless entry for it to work, only a simple
momentary contact switch (normally open) to deactivate it. Every time the ignition is turned off, continuity is
broken on the starter feed wire. To disable (or start), turn ignition on, then press the hidden switch, then start
as normal.

You can substitute the switch with a number of others devices such as the amp turn on wire of your head unit.
Be sure to isolate it with at least a 1 amp diode. Turn the key to the run position. Allow the head unit to come
on or turn it on. Now start the vehicle. If you connected to the power antenna wire, make sure the tuner is on.
If you have a pullout or detachable face head unit, your vehicle will not start without it.
 If you wish to use a device such as your horn, but do not want the horn to sound when you deactivate the
starter kill, yet still work when driving, you can use the same configuration above on both the horn and the
starter wire as shown below. The starter kill is deactivated by the positive output of the vehicle's horn relay
and the horn's interrupt is deactivated by the positive output of the starter wire from the key. You could
substitute the horn with other devices such as parking lights, brake lights, etc. where you do not want it to be
obvious that you used the device to disable the starter kill.

 
Flashing LED 

 
 
 
 
The LED flasher circuits below operate on a single 1.5 volt battery. The circuit on the upper right uses the popular 
LM3909 LED flasher IC and requires only a timing capacitor and LED.  
 
The top left circuit, designed by Andre De‐Guerin illustrates using a 100uF capacitor to double the battery voltage to 
obtain 3 volts for the LED.  
 
Two sections of a 74HC04 hex inverter are used as a squarewave oscillator that establishes the flash rate while a third 
section is used as a buffer that charges the capacitor in series with a 470 ohm resistor while the buffer output is at +1.5 
volts.  
 
When the buffer output switches to ground (zero volts) the charged capacitor is placed in series with the LED and the 
battery which supplies enough voltage to illuminate the LED. The LED current is approximately 3 mA, so a high 
brightness LED is recommended.  
 
In the other two circuits, the same voltage doubling principle is used with the addition of a transistor to allow the 
capacitor to discharge faster and supply a greater current (about 40 mA peak). A larger capacitor (1000uF) in series with 
a 33 ohm resistor would increase the flash duration to about 50mS. The discrete 3 transistor circuit at the lower right 
would need a resistor (about 5K) in series with the 1uF capacitor to widen the pulse width. 

   
Requested Info: Head Unit Wire Harness
Disclaimer
*All information on this site is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied,
including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and
use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Typical Head Unit Wire Harness

Function Typical Wire Colors
Memory / Constant 12V(+) Yellow
Switch / Accessory Red
Ground Black
Illumination Orange/White
Antenna Remote Blue
Amp Remote Blue/White
Left Front (+) White
Left Front (-) White/Black
Right Front (+) Grey
Right Front (-) Grey/Black
Left Rear (+) Green
Left Rear (-) Green/Black
Right Rear (+) Violet
Right Rear (-) Violet/Black
• Car Stereo: Miscellaneous
 
Converting Polarity

Convert a Negative Output to a Positive Output

If you have a switch or an alarm or keyless entry that has a negative output that you wish to use to switch a
device that requires 12V+ such as a horn, dome light, parking lights, head lights, hatch release, etc., wire a
relay as shown below to convert the negative output (trigger) to a positive output.

Here's the same configuration showing a negative output from an alarm or remote keyless entry used to
activate a trunk release solenoid that requires 12V+ to release the trunk.
 Convert a Positive Output to a Negative Output
If you have a switch or an alarm or keyless entry that has a positive output that you wish to use to switch a
device that requires a ground such as a horn, dome light, parking lights, head lights, hatch release, etc., wire a
relay as shown below to convert the positive output (trigger) to a negative output.

Here's the same configuration showing a positive output from an alarm or remote keyless entry used to
activate a vehicle's parking light relay that requires a ground to turn the lights on.

 
American Wire Gauge (AWG): Diameter in Inches
Also see:
• Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

Gauge Diameter Gauge Diameter

000000 .5800 7 .1443
00000 .5165 8 .1285
0000 .4600 9 .1144
000 .4096 10 .1019
00 .3648 11 .0907
0 .3249 12 .0808
1 .2893 13 .0719
2 .2576 14 .0641
3 .2294 15 .0571
4 .2043 16 .0508
5 .1819 17 .0453
6 .1620 18 .0403

Gauge Diameter Gauge Diameter

19 .0359 30 .0100
20 .0319 31 .0089
21 .0285 32 .0079
22 .0253 33 .0071
23 .0226 34 .0063
24 .0201 35 .0056
25 .0179 36 .0050
26 .0159 37 .0045
27 .0142 38 .0040
28 .0126 39 .0035
29 .0113 40 .0031