The Hidden Places of Cornwall

Looking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop?
www.findsomewhere.co.uk
Hidden Places of Cornwall
1
Other ebooks in the series

ENGLAND Bedfordshire Berkshire Buckinghamshire Cambridgeshire Cheshire Cornwall Cumbria Derbyshire Devon Dorset Durham East Sussex East Yorkshire Essex Gloucestershire Hampshire Herefordshire Hertfordshire Isle of Man Isle of Wight Kent Leicestershire & Rutland Lancashire Lincolnshire Merseyside & Manchester Norfolk Northamptonshire Northumberland North Yorkshire Nottinghamshire Oxfordshire Shropshire Somerset South Yorkshire Staffordshire Suffolk Surrey Tyne and Wear Warwickshire & W Midlands West Sussex West Yorkshire Wiltshire Worcestershire WALES Anglesey and North Coast North Wales Borderlands Carmarthenshire Ceredigion Gower & Heritage Coast Monmouthshire North Powys Pembrokeshire Snowdonia & Lleyn Peninsula South Powys SCOTLAND Argyll Ayrshire & Arran The Borders Dumfries & Galloway Edinburgh and The Lothians Fife Glasgow & West Central Highlands Inner Hebrides North East Scotland Orkney and Shetland Perthshire, Angus & Kinross Stirling and Clackmannan Western Isles
Published by: Travel Publishing Ltd Airport Business Centre, 10 Thornbury Road, Estover, Plymouth PL6 7PP
ISBN13 9781907462047
Travel Publishing Ltd
First Published: 1989 Third Edition: 1996 Fifth Edition: 2000
Second Edition: 1992 Fourth Edition: 1998 Sixth Edition: 2003
Seventh Edition: 2005 Eighth Edition: 2007 Ninth Edition: 2009 Tenth Edition: 2011
Please Note: All advertisements in this publication have been accepted in good faith by Travel Publishing. All information is included by the publishers in good faith and is believed to be correct at the time of going to press. No responsibility can be accepted for errors. Editors: Hilary Weston and Jackie Staddon
Cover Photo:
East Porthleven Beach. International Photobank / Alamy
Text Photos:
See page 185
This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not by way of trade or otherwise be lent, re-sold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publishers prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that which it is published and without similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchase.
THE HIDDEN PLACES OF
CORNWALL
Edited By Hilary Weston and Jackie Staddon
Travel Publishing Ltd.
FOREWORD
This is the 10th edition of the Hidden Places of Cornwall but it is also the first Hidden Places title to be published simultaneously in printed form and as an e-book which reflects the significant growth in the demand for travel information in digital form. The free-to-download digital edition is reproduced in full colour and reflects many of the changes made to the printed version with an attractive new cover and redesigned page layouts. The changes will significantly improve the usefulness, accessibility and appeal of the guide. Editorially, the new style continues Travel Publishings commitment to exploring the more interesting, unusual or unique places of interest in Cornwall. In this respect we would like to thank the Tourist Information Centres who helped us update the editorial content of the book. As an e-book of course readers are able to quickly browse the guide on a page-by-page basis, search for, and locate places of interest using the index and find out more information on our advertisers by clicking on their website or email address. In addition, any part of the guide can be printed off for readers who want information on specific places. Cornwall has been described as an isolated beauty that contains some of the most dramatic and spectacular scenery in the country. It is surrounded by rugged coastlines and has often been referred to as the English Riviera encompassing pretty fishing ports, secluded scenic villages, narrow winding lanes and strong, romantic seafaring traditions. This is a land of strong Celtic heritage and ancestry, a place that is dotted with monuments such as crosses, holy wells and prehistoric sites and where legends of old still hold their romance amongst the Cornish people. The Hidden Places of Cornwall contains a wealth of information on the history, culture and the hundreds of interesting places to be found within the county. But it also promotes the more secluded and little known visitor attractions and advertises places to stay, eat and drink, many of which are easy to miss unless you know exactly where you are going. These are cross-referenced to more detailed information contained in a separate, easy-to-use section to the rear of the book. This section is also available as a free supplement from the local Tourist Information Offices. We include hotels, bed & breakfasts, restaurants, pubs, bars, teashops and cafes as well as historic houses, museums, gardens and many other attractions throughout the area - all of which are comprehensively indexed. Many places are accompanied by an attractive photograph and are easily located by using the map at the beginning of each chapter. We do not award merit marks or rankings but concentrate on describing the more interesting, unusual or unique features of each place with the aim of making the readers stay in the local area an enjoyable and stimulating experience. Whether you are travelling around Cornwall on business or for pleasure we do hope that you enjoy reading and using this book. We are always interested in what readers think of places covered (or not covered) in our guides so please do not hesitate to give us your considered comments. We also welcome any general comments which will help us improve the guides themselves. Finally if you are planning to visit any other corner of the British Isles we would like to refer you to the list of other Hidden Places titles to be found to the rear of the book and to the Travel Publishing website (see below).
Travel Publishing
Did you know that you can also search our website for details of thousands of places to see, stay, eat or drink throughout Britain and Ireland? Our site has become increasingly popular and now receives hundreds of thousands of visits. Try it!
website: www.findsomewhere.co.uk
CONTENTS
4 Foreword 6 Regional Map GEOGRAPHICAL AREAS: 8 Cornwall ADVERTISEMENTS: 118 Cornwall Advertisements INDEXES AND LISTS: 183 List of Tourist Information Centres 185 Image Copyright Holders 186 Order Forms 187 Index of Towns, Villages and Places of Interest
LOCATION MAP
Accommodation
1 2 3 4 6 7 13 15 16 17 20 21 22 23 The Beach At Bude, Bude West Point Bed & Breakfast, Morwenstow Bullers Arms Hotel, Marhamchurch Penpethy Holiday Cottages, Penpethy Hentervene Holiday Park, Crackington Haven The White Horse Inn, Launceston Sheviock Barton Bed & Breakfast, Sheviock Wringford Down, Forder Trenethick Farmhouse Bed & Breakfast, Trerulefoot Hay Lake Farm, Landrake Tom Sawyers Tavern, Hannafore Polraen Country House, Sandplace Windermere House, St Martins Old Lanwarnick, Duloe pg 9, pg 12, pg 14, pg 15, 119 119 120 121
pg 18, 122 pg 21, 123 pg 34, 127 pg 36, 129 pg 37, 37, 39, 39, 39, 39, 130 129 132 133 133 134
pg pg pg pg pg
24 26 28 29 30 33 37 38 39 42 44 45 55 56 61 64 67 68 69
Cornish Quay Holidays, Liskeard Bridge On Wool, Wadebridge The Cornish Arms, Pendoggett The London Inn, Padstow The Golden Lion Pub, Padstow The Falcon Inn, St Mawgan St Agnes Hotel, St Agnes Little Trevellas Farm, Trevellas Fowey Harbour Cottages, Fowey Rooms at Polgassick, Polgassick Collon Barton, Lerryn The White Pyramid, Trewoon The Old Quay Inn, Devoran Tregenna Guest House, Falmouth Portreath Arms, Portreath Carwinion House, Mawnan Smith The Five Pilchards Inn, Porthallow The Haven Bed & Breakfast, Ruan Minor The Top House Inn, The Lizard
pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg
41, 42, 46, 46, 46, 54, 58, 60, 63, 68, 69, 70, 81, 82, 85, 88, 94, 95, 96,
135 137 139 140 141 143 146 147 147 148 149 150 157 159 162 163 165 168 167
164 165 166 165 167 169 170 174 174 175 175 176 177 178 179 180 179 181 182
Accommodation
70 72 74 75 76 78 84 86 Colvennor Farmhouse B & B, Cury pg 97, Kota Restaurant & Rooms, Porthleven pg 98, abode Bed & Breakfast, St Ives pg 100, Anchorage Bed & Breakfast, St Ives pg 101, Blue Hayes Private Hotel, St Ives pg 101, Mount Haven Hotel & Restaurant, Marazion pg 105, Number Nine, Penzance pg 108, The Cornish Range Restaurant With Rooms, Mousehole pg 110, 168 169 171 172 173 174 178 180
Food & Drink

63 65 66 67 69 72 73 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 85 86 87 88 89 The Brea Inn, Higher Brea pg 87, Trevarno Estate and Gardens, Trevarno pg 91, The Gweek Inn, Gweek pg 91, The Five Pilchards Inn, Porthallow pg 94, The Top House Inn, The Lizard pg 96, Kota Restaurant & Rooms, Porthleven pg 98, Cafe Mundo Bar, St Ives pg 100, Angarrack Inn, Angarrack pg 104, Mount Haven Hotel & Restaurant, Marazion pg 105, The White Hart, Churchtown pg 105, Wayside Folk Museum, Zennor pg 106, Waves Cafe Bar, Penzance pg 108, Blue Bay Cafe, Penzance pg 108, The Honey Pot, Penzance pg 108, Country Cousins Cafe, Penzance pg 108, The Cornish Range Restaurant With Rooms, Mousehole pg 110, Jessies Dairy, Mousehole pg 110, The Cook Book, St Just pg 115, Trewellard Arms, Trewellard pg 116,
Food & Drink

3 7 8 9 10 11 14 18 19 20 21 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 45 46 47 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 60 61 62 Bullers Arms Hotel, Marhamchurch The White Horse Inn, Launceston Jamaica Inn and Museums, Bolventor The Weavers, Bodmin Bodmin & Wenford Railway, Bodmin Penlan Eating House, Fourwinds St John Inn, St John Kellys of Looe, Looe Daisys Cafe, Looe Tom Sawyers Tavern, Hannafore Polraen Country House, Sandplace The Highwayman, Dobwalls Bridge On Wool, Wadebridge Bluetomato, Rock The Cornish Arms, Pendoggett The London Inn, Padstow The Golden Lion Pub, Padstow The Olive Tree, St Merryn The Falcon Inn, St Mawgan Lappa Valley Steam Railway, St Newlyn East The Smugglers Den, Trebellan The Bowgie Inn, West Pentire St Agnes Hotel, St Agnes The White Pyramid, Trewoon The Kings Arms, Luxulyan The Shipwreck and Heritage Centre, Charlestown Gravy boesti, Truro The Heron Inn, Malpas The Kings Arms, Tregony The Roseland Inn, Philleigh The Royal Standard, Gerrans Halwyns Tea Gardens, Old Kea The Old Quay Inn, Devoran Castle Beach Cafe, Falmouth Finn MCouls, Falmouth Pea Souk, Falmouth Miss Peapods, Penryn Portreath Arms, Portreath The Melting Pot Krowji, Redruth pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg 14, 21, 23, 27, 27, 29, 34, 38, 38, 39, 39, 41, 42, 43, 46, 46, 46, 50, 54, 57, 57, 58, 58, 70, 120 123 122 124 125 126 128 131 132 132 133 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 143 144 145 146 150
Shopping
34 41 43 47 48 65 71 80 88 Lappa Valley Steam Railway, St Newlyn East Bellamama Deli, Lostwithiel The Parade, Lostwithiel The Shipwreck and Heritage Centre, Charlestown Atishoo Designs, Charlestown Trevarno Estate and Gardens, Trevarno Halzephron Herb Farm, Porthleven Wayside Folk Museum, Zennor The Cook Book, St Just pg 57, 143 pg 68, 148 pg 68, 149 pg 72, pg 72, pg 91, pg 98, pg 106, pg 115, 151 151 165 168 175 181
Places of Interest
5 8 10 12 32 34 40 47 59 65 71 80 Museum of Witchcraft, Boscastle Jamaica Inn and Museums, Bolventor Bodmin & Wenford Railway, Bodmin Cotehele House, St Dominick Blue Reef Aquarium, Newquay Lappa Valley Steam Railway, St Newlyn East Restormel Castle, Lostwithiel The Shipwreck and Heritage Centre, Charlestown National Maritime Museum, Falmouth Trevarno Estate and Gardens, Trevarno Halzephron Herb Farm, Porthleven Wayside Folk Museum, Zennor pg pg pg pg pg 17, 23, 27, 33, 51, 121 122 125 127 142
pg 71, 150 pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg pg 72, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 82, 82, 83, 85, 87, 151 152 153 154 155 156 158 157 159 158 160 161 162 163
pg 57, 143 pg 68, 148 pg 72, pg 82, pg 91, pg 98, pg 106, 151 160 165 168 175
CORNWALL
I like Cornwall very much. It is not England, wrote DH Lawrence. That was more than 80 years ago, but the ancient Duchy of Cornwall remains stubbornly distinct from the rest of England, not just in its dramatic and spectacular scenery, but in its strong Celtic heritage. The landscape is dotted with ancient monuments, crosses and holy wells, and ancient legends especially those relating to King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table appear to have been hot-wired into the Cornish psyche. Cornish people have been recognised as a separate identity by the Commission for Racial Equality and they have their own distinctive and attractive dialect. According to the Cornish Language Board, around 2600 people still speak Kernuack, the original language of the peninsula. A firm in Helston occasionally publishes books in the ancient language and Kernuack has been recognised as a living language by the European Commission. Elements of Kernuack still survive in the names of Cornish places and people as Sir Walter Scott put it: By Tre-, Pol- and Pen- , You shall know all true Cornishmen. One simple fact about the county helps to explain its distinct character. Wherever you are in Cornwall, you are never more than 20 miles from the sea. Maritime trade started early here in the days of King Solomon, the Cornish people were already trading tin with the Phoenicians. Cornish eyes, it seems, were always turned seawards rather than inland, and the peoples cultural affinity was with the Celtic diaspora of Ireland and Brittany rather than their mainland neighbours. Added to this cultural separation was the countys physical distance from major centres of population. Even Porthmellin Head today, Cornwalls population of around 500,000 is less than that of the city of Bristol. Theres not a single mile of motorway within its boundaries and long stretches of the main through route, the A30 from Penzance to London, are still single carriageway. It was this isolation and the luminous light of the area that attracted major artists to the little seaside resort of St Ives, which now boasts a world-class art gallery in the Tate St Ives. More recently, an abandoned china clay pit has been transformed into what has been described as the Eighth Wonder of the World, the inspired and phenomenally successful Eden Project, whose enormous bio-spheres celebrate the complex relationship between plants, people and resources. Elsewhere, the county boasts the third largest natural harbour in the world, Falmouth; acres of glorious gardens such as the Lost Gardens of Heligan; King Arthurs legendary fortress at Tintagel, and other medieval castles at St Mawes, Falmouth and St Michaels Mount; the wonderful Elizabethan mansion of Prideaux Place at Padstow; and, of course, Lands End where the granite bulwark overlooks the Atlantic waters beneath which lies the legendary Land of Lyonesse.

Crooklets Beach, Bude
BUDE
Up the windswept and dramatic coastline of north Cornwall lie the sheltered beaches of Bude. The wide seafront is Budes chief attraction, which has been entertaining visitors since Victorian times. The town still retains the charm and atmosphere of a traditional sea side resort, coupled with modern services and facilities to satisfy todays discerning visitor. The birthplace of British surfing (often referred to by Australian surfers as the Bondai of Britain), the area has some of the best surfing beaches in the UK, due to its exposed position on the Atlantic coast, and was the site of the first life-saving club. Bude lifeboat station, operated by the RNLI, Royal National Lifeboat Institution, has been in service for over 125 years and the crews have been presented with twelve Silver Medals and four Framed Letters of Thanks for gallantry. The RNLI is a registered charity dedicated to saving lives at sea. In September 2000 the RNLI introduced a pilot scheme to evaluate
1
Bude
THE BEACH AT BUDE
Luxury Boutique Accommodation in Cornwall with Stunning Sea Views. See entry on page 119
the potential expansion into beach lifeguarding around the UK. A pilot service was launched in 2001 to cover 26 beaches in the central south and south west of England, with the aim of providing a joined up service to save more lives. The RNLI district of Bude is made up of Blackrock, Widemouth, Summerleaze, Crooklets, Northcott, and Sandymouth on the West Coast with Westward Ho! and Sandymere tucked away further up the coast to the north, over the border in Devon. Recognisable by its dramatic landscape, theres something magical about this stretch of coast, with dozens of strange and wonderful rock formations and outcrops giving this area masses of character. There are beaches to suit all tastes - just along the coast to the North is Summerleaze, which is an enormously well loved destination, and its easy to see why. Surrounded by sand dunes on one side and a canal on the other, this beach has loads of personality with plenty to look at, including the Bude Lifeboat Station that is based here. Further up the coast is Crooklets, another photogenic beach with impressive rock formations and dramatic cliffs. Crooklets is popular with visitors and locals alike due to its close proximity to the town centre and its reputation for clean waters and great amenities, A recent addition at this beach enables you to walk on water in a giant plastic ball. Northcott is a rural beach set in a National Trust area. A pretty low key affair, this beach has a relaxing, tranquil atmosphere, and is great for spotting wildlife as it is relatively undisturbed. Northwards is Sandymouth, another National Trust beach, popular with surfers and beautiful for walking, especially at low tide This beach also has enchanting sunsets. Next is Sandymere, which is renowned for its watersports, but if youre not feeling quite so active the pebble and sand-covered beach is a charming spot to sit down and spectate.

Finally, Westward Ho! This is incredibly popular with families because of its clean waters and outstanding amenities. It also has a lost child centre should one of the little folk wander off, which provides that extra peace of mind for parents. Add to all this a Designated Area of Outstanding Beauty, local nature reserve, unique sea-lock and canal with easy disabled access, a friendly town with mostly locally owned shops, special events and festivals throughout the year, and you have all the ingredients for a great holiday location. A few minutes walk from the town centre and you can be exploring the dramatic scenery of the South West Coastal Path or walking in some of the most unspoilt rural areas to be found in the South West. Those more interested in history will find much to explore in Budes past geological features, with cliffs laid down 300 million years ago, its maritime connections, canal and unique sea-lock, castle, the battleground at Stratton and the dozens of beautiful churches in the area. Originally a busy north Cornwall port, Bude developed rapidly after the Bude Canal to Launceston was opened in the 1820s. The canal was an engineering feat of the early 19th century that intended to connect the Atlantic with the English Channel via the River Tamar. The only stretch to be completed was that between Bude and Launceston and it was, in many ways, remarkable as the sea lock at the entrance to the canal was the only lock on the whole
Bude Canal
length of the canal - although it ran for 35 miles and rose to a height of 350 feet in 6 miles. The canal today has a new use as a resource for fishing, canoeing, kayaking and walking, and the Bude Canal Trail follows this tranquil backwater into the heart of Cornwall. To discover more there is a canal exhibition in Bude Tourist Information Centre. The flat tow-path, which is pushchair and wheelchair friendly, provides a pleasant twomile walk from Bude to Helebridge. Close to the entrance to the canal stands Bude Castle, an unusually small fortification designed as his home by the 19th century engineer and prolific inventor, Sir Goldsworthy Gurney (1793-1875), a local man who was probably the greatest inventor Cornwall - a place renowned for its inventors - has ever produced (see also Launcells). The castle, modest by Tintagels standards and decidedly more modern, is renowned for being the first building in the country to be constructed on sand, its foundations resting on a concrete raft - a technique developed by Gurney. The Castle is now Bude Castle Heritage Centre with exhibition galleries, an archive with research facilities, an education room, shop and a restaurant with breathtaking views to the breakwater and Chapel Rock and over Summerleaze Beach to the sea beyond. Following the exhibitions, you can find out about Sir Goldsworthy Gurney Cornwalls Forgotten Genius - and his many inventions which include a steam jet, a musical instrument consisting of glasses played as a piano, and the Bude Light, an intensive light obtained by introducing oxygen into the interior flame and using mirrors. He used this to light his house, in lighthouses and to light the House of Commons, where his invention replaced 280 candles and gave rise to the expression in the limelight. This earned the inventor his knighthood and the light served the House of Commons for 60 years. At the heritage centre you can also discover about the
10

history, flora, fauna and port development of Bude and its surroundings. You can also measure yourself against the Cornish Giant, Anthony Payne (see also Stratton). The Bude Castle and Marshes won a prestigious Green Flag in 2010, hailing it as one of the best green spaces in the country. One of the high spots in the Bude calendar is the annual Jazz Festival, which takes place in late August and runs into September each year. This is when New Orleans comes to Cornwall, and with over 20 different indoor venues in and around the town, it is one of the leading festivals of its kind in Britain. Around the time of this festival is Bude Carnival, which dates from 1920 when it was held on Thursday, 2nd December. There has been a Bude Carnival every year since though it is now held on the third Saturday of August. Money collected on the day, after expenses, is donated to local charities and organisations.
St Olafs Parish Church, Poughill
AROUND BUDE
POUGHILL
1 mile NE of Bude off the A39
The thatched cottages of the old village of Poughill (pronounced Poffle) stand around the St Olafs Parish Church, one of the treasure houses of Cornwall. Though its foundations are Norman, the church as you see it now, dates largely from the 14th century, and is dedicated to a Norwegian king and martyr. Noted for its late 15th century carved oak bench ends (78 in all) telling the story of the Passion in remarkable detail and pair of immense 15th Century paintings of St. Christopher facing each other across the nave, keen eyed visitors will also spot that the Royal Arms of Charles II have been incorrectly dated 1655. Over the church door is a tablet commemorating Sir Goldsworthy Gurney, a gift, along with the church clock, of his daughter. A notable event in Poughills calendar is the Revel and Cuckoo Fair that takes place in the centre of the village and always on the first Thursday of August. It is a traditional English village fete welcoming
holidaymakers, with a mix of activities to try (archery, horse riding, treasure hunts, and other childrens games) and plenty of homemade cakes and homegrown produce to sample. Many of the villages around Bude have similar Revels, each on different weeks. The culmination of all of these Revels is the Bude Carnival in late August, where a large procession of floats arrives in town, each carrying the May Queen and her deputies from each of the surrounding village Revels.
MORWENSTOW
5 miles N of Bude off the A39
Tucked into Cornwalls northwest tip, Morwentstow has an appealing end-of-the-road feel to it. This isolated hamlet is surrounded by windswept cliffs and fields, and, though at times rather storm-lashed, this is a marvellous place from which to watch the changing moods of the ocean. Not surprisingly, shipwrecks have been common down the ages along this stretch of coast and, though many floundered as a result of storms, it was also not unknown for local criminals to lure unsuspecting ships on to the rocks by lighting lanterns from the cliff tops or the shore. One of the first people to show concern
11
12
for the number of merchant vessels that were coming to grief along this perilous stretch of coastline was the Reverend Hawker, who spent much of his time monitoring the sea and would often climb down the cliff to rescue shipwrecked crews or recover the bodies of those who had not survived. He insisted on giving shipwrecked sailors a churchyard rather than a traditional beachside burial, with the result that forty mariners Vicarage Cliffs, Morwenstow now repose here. In the graveyard, look out for a white figurehead commemorating a tragic Canterbury, preached at an ecumenical service shipwreck. The shipwreck was that of the in his honour. Ramsey described Hawker as a brig, Caledonia of Arbroath, which was lost beyond man in a beyond place, to whom all with all hands - apart from one crew member English Christians should be grateful. While - in 1842. Celebrations in 2008 marked the visiting the area try the award-winning completion of a four-year restoration of her Rectory Tearooms located in the Rectory historic figurehead, a famous relic of the Farmhouse run by the National Trust. days of sail. Welcombe and Marsland Valleys Nature Hawkers lasting credit to the church was Reserve, set in the forested valley slopes, is introducing to England the custom of the a haven for butterflies. At Higher and Lower Harvest Festival in 1843 and his most famous Sharpnose Points, to the south of poem is the rousing Cornish anthem, The Morwenstow, the erosion caused by the Song of Western Men, which contains the constant bombardment of the sea can be well-known line And shall Trelawney die? It seen clearly as there are boulders strewn was first published anonymously in a along the bottom of these crumbling cliffs; Plymouth newspaper. Many people thought it some of the outcrops of harder rocks have was a traditional Cornish song composed in begun to form tiny islands. The rugged coast the 17th century about Bishop Jonathan on either side of Morwenstow makes for Trelawney, imprisoned with six other bishops strenuous but exhilarating walking. during the reign of James II. Eccentric to the KILKHAMPTON end, Hawker became a Roman Catholic on his 4 miles NE of Bude on the A39 deathbed, even though he had written an anthem to Trelawney, who was a staunch Kilkhampton, or Kilk as the place is known Protestant. Interestingly 100 years later, locally, sits 600 feet above sea level, and Michael Ramsey, the retired Archbishop of claims to be Cornwalls most northerly village of any size. Sitting astride the A39, it is 2 WEST POINT BED & BREAKFAST thought to have been an important Morwenstow settlement in Saxon times, as the surrounding Come and relax in the area is littered with ancient burial grounds. warm and friendly The villages tall and elegant St Jamess atmosphere of this first class Parish Church was built in the 15th century 4 star spacious on the site of the previous Norman church, of bungalow. which only the splendid doorway remains. St See entry on page 119 Jamess Day (July 25th) is still celebrated in

the village. The church contains many monuments to the local Granville family, many of them made by Michael Chuke, a local man and a pupil of Grinling Gibbons. Equally notable are the magnificent carved bench-ends, and the organ is the one played by Purcell when it was in Westminster Abbey. The Granvilles (who also used the surname Grenville) at one time lived in the very grand Stowe House, which no longer stands but is described vividly by Charles Kingsley in his Westward Ho!
STRATTON
1 miles E of Bude on the A3072
Payne showed no signs of clumsiness, but awed everyone with his dexterity and very quick reflexes. They also say he had the brains to match the brawn that had thrust him into the role of a mighty man. He was an excellent choice as Sir Bevils bodyguard and they fought together at Stamford Hill and later at Lansdown Hill near Bath. When he retired he returned to Stratton to live in the Tree Inn. He died in 1691 and his coffin had to be lowered through the ceiling, as it was too large to move any other way. The Tree Inn, whose beams are made from the timbers of wrecked ships, still remembers Strattons most famous son and a life-size portrait hangs in the inns courtyard.
This old market town predates its much larger neighbour of Bude and is believed to have been founded in Roman times. In fact, when its ancient St Andrews Parish Church was first being built, Bude was simply an unimportant part of the town. The church is well worth a visit, its main feature being a tomb with a cross-legged knight, thought to be that of a member of the Blanchminster family. Originally from Shropshire, their manor house was at Bien Amee, now a moated site near Binhamy Farm. Situated on a hill, the steeply sloping main street is lined with fine Georgian houses and cottages, many of which are still thatched today. During the Civil War, the town was a stronghold of the Royalists and their commander, Sir Bevil Grenville, made The Tree Inn his centre of operations. In May 1643, at the Battle of Stamford Hill, Grenville led his troops to victory over the Parliamentarians, who had been holding an Iron Age earthwork just northwest of the town. The dead of both sides were buried in unmarked graves in Stratton churchyard. Each May, on the closest weekend to the anniversary, there is a two-day re-enactment of the battle, fought over the Saturday and Sunday, together with a procession through the streets of neighbouring Stratton village. Its well worth a visit. The Tree Inn was also the birthplace of the Cornish giant, Anthony Payne. Also known as the Falstaff of the West, he was seven feet four inches tall and weighed 38 stones. For all his size and bulk, the witty
LAUNCELLS
2 miles E of Bude off the A3072
Though the name Launcells is applied to the area, there is no Launcells village. There was a church here in the time of the Domesday Book, when the manor, of which there are no remains, was held by the Earl of Cornwall. The current church, set in a delightful wooded combe, is dedicated to St Swithin and was built in the 15th century. It
St Swithins Church, Launcells
13

is delightfully unrestored, prompting John Betjeman to declare it the least spoilt church in Cornwall. The church is notable for its fine Tudor bench-ends and for over 1,400 15th century Barnstaple floor tiles, with raised griffins, lions, pelicans and flowers. Just outside the church is a small holy well, and in the churchyard lies the grave of the remarkable Sir Goldsworthy Gurney (see also Bude).
MARHAMCHURCH
2 miles SE of Bude off the A39
Parish Church. The week part of the name comes from the old English wic, meaning a dairy farm. It was the birthplace of Thomasine Banaventure, who was born in humble circumstances, but who later, as Dame Percyval, founded a school in the village and rose to become Lady Mayoress of London. To the west lies Penhallam, the grass-covered ruins of a 12th to 14th century moated manor house which has been excavated, revealing low walls on a central island and a flat-bottomed moat, which was 18 feet wide and over 5 feet deep.
The Celtic Saint Morweena apparently founded this village in the early 6th century, and the 14th century St Marwennes Parish Church is dedicated to its founder. It was originally a Norman structure, but nothing remains of it. The church has a magnificent 15th century oak door and a sanctuary knocker, which allowed fugitives to seek 40 days protection in the church. Marhamchurch Revel is a festival held every year, on the Monday after 12th August. During the festival a Queen of the Revel is chosen from the village schoolgirls and crowned by a person representing Father Time (whose identity is not supposed to be known) in front of the church. Following these events a procession led by the local band and the newly crowned Revel Queen then proceeds through the village to the Revel Ground. Here the villagers are entertained with a show of Cornish dancing, Cornish Wrestling and other entertainments.
POUNDSTOCK
4 miles S of Bude off the A3
WEEK ST MARY
6 miles SE of Bude off the B3254
The unusual Guildhouse, found here in a wooded hollow, is the only surviving one of its kind in Cornwall. It was constructed in the 14th century, probably to house the masons working on the building of St Winwaloes Parish Church. It remains a fine example of a once common style of non-secular building. After the church had been built the guildhouse became a meeting place; over the years it has also acted as a poorhouse and a village school. Nearby, Penfound Manor is reputed to be the oldest inhabited house in England, with parts of it dating from Saxon times. It is said that William the Conqueror gave it to his half brother Robert. Ghost stories reveal that the Manor is haunted by the ghost of Kate Penfound, who was killed by her own father (a Royalist) while trying to elope with John Trebarfoot, a Parliamentarian. Her father and John then fought, each dying from wounds they received.
This small village was the site of a Norman fortress, and has the 15th century St Marys
WIDEMOUTH BAY
3 miles S of Bude off the A39
BULLERS ARMS HOTEL
Marhamchurch A much loved venue, renowned across the county for its great value restaurant and comfortable accommodation. See entry on page 120
Widemouth Bay is surrounded by intriguing rock formations, most notably the spectacular Blackrock. All of these somehow give the beach a rather ancient, mystical feel. Its easy to imagine the area being battered and shaped by the sea over the centuries and you get a real sense of history when you stand on this coast. Its no surprise
14
Blackrock, Widemouth Bay
then that Widemouth is one of the most exciting places for rock pooling, with a plethora of marine life to be spotted on its shores. The surf is suitable for beginners to intermediate, perfect for those not yet ready to face the biggest waves. There is ample parking and several campsites, plus other types of accommodation in the locality. Blackrock joins up with the neighbouring beach Widemouth for most of the day, but at high tide it becomes cut off, looming up out of the water majestically. This is an excellent beach for photography enthusiasts because of the unique outcrops and the spectacular light. The sunsets round here are legendary, and apart from very early in the morning, Blackrock gets sunlight all day long.
TINTAGEL
The mention of Tintagel conjures up a host of images - wild Cornish cliffs and rugged shores, mysterious ruins clinging to a windswept island, gift shops, tearooms and all things Arthurian. With an atmosphere like no other place, its not surprising that Tintagel has attracted poets, artists, historians and sightseers since the Victorian era. Renowned for its association with the legend of King Arthur and his Knights of the Round Table, the magic of the association is captured particularly by the black, forsaken ruins of Tintagel Castle, magnificently sited
on the rocky littoral a short walk west of the village. It is a hard climb up some 300 steps to The Island but well worth it. At the foot of The Island is Merlins Cave, where visitors can listen to the waves booming. Although the castle makes a plausibly resonant candidate for the abode of the Once and Future King, it was in fact a Norman stronghold occupied by the Earls of Cornwall. The castle remains on the mainland are of a castle built by Earl Reginald of Cornwall, the earliest parts dating from the mid 12th century. Reginald was the brother of the Earl of Gloucester, who encouraged Geoffrey of Monmouth to write his History of the English Kings, a chronicle that mentions Tintagel as being Arthurs birthplace. So maybe Reginald saw Tintagel as the natural site for his new castle. Along with Caerleon in Wales, South Cadbury in Somerset, Camelford in Cornwall, Greenan in Ayrshire and Kelso in Roxburgh (and a few more besides!), Tintagel also lays claim to being the site of Camelot, the mythical headquarters of the Knights of the Round Table, and an annual attraction is a reenactment of the Battle of Camlann, where Arthur was reputedly slain. The town naturally owes much of its popularity to its Arthurian connections. On the main Fore Street, King Arthurs Great Halls is the only building in the world dedicated to the Arthurian legend, the brainchild of the philanthropist millionaire Frederick Thomas Glasscock. Designed and built in the 1930s the granite and slate
PENPETHY HOLIDAY COTTAGES
Lower Penpethy, nr Tintagel Four beautiful barn conversion cottages await with luxury bathrooms, bedrooms and sun drenched courtyards. See entry on page 121
15

building encapsulates the world and legend of King Arthur. Visited by people from all over the world and boasting over 2 million visitors since it opened in 1933, among the many sights are numerous carved slates and stones, one of only seven Pillow Swords, and 72 stained glass windows, which bear the Knights Coats of Arms and depict some of their adventures. And in the Arthurian Experience Merlin takes his audience on a journey through time, telling Arthurs story in laser lights, music and sound. The halls are open daily, all year round, and in the shop is a vast selection of Arthurian, Celtic and Anglo-Saxon books, postcards, jewellery, gifts and swords. Also on the main street, though this time not connected with King Arthur, is the weather-beaten Old Post Office (National Trust), housed in a small manor house dating from the 14th century and still retaining the stone-paved medieval hall complete with its ancient fireplace. At the time of the introduction of the penny post in 1840, Tintagel had no post office, and with the increase in the volume of letters the trek from Camelford became too much of a burden. A post office was set up in a rented room in the house, and in that role it served the village until 1894. It was then sold to an artist, Miss Catherine Jones, who with the help of other artists raised money to repair the building. In 1903, it was purchased for 100 by the National Trust. One of their very first acquisitions, it has remained in the Trusts care ever since. One room has been restored in the style of a letter receiving
office as it was in Victorian times. St Materianas Parish Church is set some distance away from the centre of the village on an exposed cliff and its early 15th century tower has long been used as a landmark by sailors. St Materiana is also known as St Madryn, a princess from Gwent, and the much-restored original Norman building displays some Saxon fragments in its structure, and still retains its Norman font. To the north of the village of Tintagel lies the mile-long Rocky Valley, a curious rockstrewn cleft in the landscape which has a character all of its own. In the wooded upper reaches can be found the impressive 60-feet waterfall known as St Nectans Kieve - named after the Celtic hermit whose cell is believed to have stood beside the basin, or kieve, at the foot of the cascade. The tranquil kieve has been a place of worship and reverence since pre-Christian times, and the waterfall is in a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest. Here too can be seen the Rocky Valley Carvings, on a rock face behind a ruined building. It has been suggested that the carvings date from early Christian times, around the same time that St Nectan was living here. However, it is impossible to be accurate and other suggestions range from the 2nd century BC to the 17th century.
AROUND TINTAGEL
BOSSINEY
mile N of Tintagel off the B3263
Old Post Office, Tintagel
Bossiney is situated on one of the most romantic stretches of a truly awe-inspiring coastline, much of which is now preserved by the National Trust. Legend gives Bossiney Mound a fascinating niche in the Arthurian story. According to Cornish tradition, beneath the mount lies Arthurs Round Table. If Arthur ever returns, a legend says that the table will rise from the mound to accommodate him and
16
Boscastle Village
his knights once more. Reached by a short signposted footpath from the village, Bossiney Haven is a beautiful, sheltered beach surrounded by a semi circle of cliffs. The beach is still relatively quiet compared to much of the surrounding area, as people tend to completely miss it as they go from Tintagel to Boscastle although it is overlooked by a hotel and small campsite.
BOSCASTLE
3 miles NE of Tintagel on the B3263
Boscastle came to prominence in August 2004 as a result of the terrible floods that devastated this quiet fishing village. Four years later a 10m flood defence scheme was officially opened in the village. The recovery was remarkable and the damage done no longer evident. Designated an Area of Outstanding Beauty, the National Trust own and care for this beautiful medieval harbour and surrounding coastline. Here too a lovely valley heads inland, a path follows a fast
MUSEUM OF WITCHCRAFT
Boscastle A fascinating museum housing the worlds largest collection of witchcraft related artefacts. See entry on page 121
flowing burbling stream which leads to several hidden churches allowing you to discover the little known connection between North Cornwall and Thomas Hardy. Pentargon Waterfall is featured in Hardys novel A Pair of Blue Eyes. The straggling village grew up around the harbour, and takes its name from, the now demolished Bottreaux Castle built by the de Botterell family in Norman times. The picturesque inlet, between the cliffs, is the only natural harbour between Hartland Point and Padstow and is formed by the rivers Valency and Jordan. The renowned Elizabethan seafarer, Sir Richard Grenville, built the harbours inner jetty in 1584, at a time when the village was prospering as a fishing, grain and slate port. The outer jetty, or breakwater, dates from the 19th century, when Boscastle had grown to become a bustling commercial port handling coal, timber, slate and china clay. Because of the dangerous harbour entrance, ships had to be hobbled (towed) in by boats manned by eight oarsmen, and centred in the channel by gangs of men pulling on ropes. The 2004 floods took their toll on Boscastles Museum of Witchcraft, an intelligent, comprehensive and non-gimmicky account of witchcraft throughout the ages; when you visit look out for the green marker on the right hand door, it shows the level the flood water reached. The museum houses the worlds largest collection of witchcraftrelated books, artefacts and regalia and was originally opened in 1951 by Cecil Williamson on the Isle of Man. It is said that Williamson knew so much about witchcraft and the occult that his knowledge helped Britains war efforts during World War II, as some of the leading Nazis were steeped in the occult. Penally Point on the northern side of the harbour is home to the Devils Bellows a blow-hole that occasionally shoots out plumes of water at low tide when there is enough swell running.
17
ST JULIOT
4 miles NE of Tintagel off the B3266
Tucked away in the wooded valley of the fast flowing River Valency, this hidden hamlet is home to St Juliot Parish Church, upon which Thomas Hardy worked when an architect, and also where, in 1870, he met his future wife, Emma Gifford, the rectors sister-in-law. Emma later professed that the young architect had already appeared to her in a dream and wrote how she was immediately arrested by his familiar appearance. Much of the couples courtship took place along the wild stretch of coastline between Boscastle and Crackington Haven and, when Emma died, over 40 years later, Hardy returned to St Juliot to erect a memorial to her in the church. Following his death in 1928, a similar memorial was erected to Hardy himself.
CRACKINGTON HAVEN
7 miles NE of Tintagel off the B3263
Crackington Haven is a small sheltered beach that slopes away gently to the sea and is overlooked by towering 400-feet cliffs and jagged rocks. A rock lovers paradise, a dramatic period of the worlds formation is frozen forever in these spectacular cliffs. The small and narrow sandy cove is approached, by land, down a steep-sided wooded combe which has a few houses, an inn and a village shop at the bottom. Originally a small port that imported coal and limestone and exported slate, this small haven is now a popular beach with locals and visitors alike. Viewed from the sea it is difficult to see how sizeable vessels once landed here to deliver their cargoes of limestone and Welsh coal. For those of you who do not want to hit
the beach, fear not as there are some stunning views to absorb with a little help from Shanks pony (your feet). Some of the most spectacular coastal scenery can be viewed by walking the cliff-top path from Crackington Haven to Cambeak to the south, but, though impressive, the cliff rock is often loosely packed and care should be taken at all times when close to the cliff edge. Just to the south of Crackington Haven a difficult path (so take care) leads to The Strangles, a remote beach with a rather curious name. Although, at low tide, large patches of sand are revealed among the rocks, the undercurrents here are strong and swimming is always unsafe. During one year alone in the 1820s, some 20 ships were said to have come to grief in this cove. Above the Strangles is High Cliff, and it justifies this name because it is over 735 feet above the rolling Atlantic ocean (the highest point on the Cornwall coast) and the views back towards Crackington and beyond or south towards Boscastle are to be experienced in the flesh. So dramatic is the scenery that some episodes of the TV series Poldark were filmed around here. On the coast road a mile and a half south of Crackington Haven is the National Trusts
HENTERVENE HOLIDAY PARK
Crackington Haven Just moments from the beach, this sheltered, peaceful family park lies on the stunning North Cornish coast. See entry on page 122
Crackington Haven Beach
18

Trevigue, a working livestock farm, where the wildlife includes badgers, deer, foxes, rabbits, birds of prey, bats and glow worms.
CAMELFORD
4 miles SE of Tintagel on the A39
Camelford, formerly Cam Pol which is Cornish for curved river, sits astride the River Camel. It is a small town once thought to Bridge over River Camel, Slaughterbridge be the site of King Arthurs Camelot. It built its prosperity on the wool trade, and the central means of a video and photographs. There small square is lined with 18th and 19th are also gardens with riverside walks, and a century houses; the early-19th century town tearoom overlooking a childrens play castle. hall has a camel for a weathervane. The main base of the centre, however, is the Two museums offer some diversion from 6th century inscribed King Arthurs Stone, the wilderness of moorland, the most which supposedly marks the place where conventional of which is the North Cornwall King Arthur fell at the Battle of Camlann in Museum and Gallery. Housed in a building AD 539 with Mordred, ending the fellowship that was originally used for making coaches of the Round Table. and wagons, it shows aspects of life in this TREBARWITH area from the 19th century and includes the reconstruction of a moorland cottage. A full 1 miles S of Tintagel off the B3263 range of tools used by blacksmiths, cobblers Trebarwith with its vast cliffs, dark caves and and printers is also on display, as well as a large number of items varying from lace fine golden sand, together with Gull rock, almost reminiscent of a dogs head keeping bonnets to early vacuum cleaners, and a watch off shore, make an excellent scene. A collection of Cornish and Devonshire pottery. Camelfords Tourist Information Centre is good surfing beach, Trebarwith Strand, some 2 miles west of this hamlet, is the only easily housed in the North Cornwall Museum. accessible beach between Polzeath and Just outside Camelford on the Boscastle Crackington Haven. Backed by crumbling road lies the British Cycling Museum housed cliffs that were once quarried for slate, this in an old Victorian railway station. It is open sandy stretch of coastline is strewn with from Sunday to Thursday each week throughout the year and has more than four rocks and, though popular during the summer, hundred examples of different cycles in swimmers must be wary of being swept off addition to an old cycle repair workshop, the rocks - or hit by falling rocks. Its also a with tools from long ago. There is an popular surfing spot, and has been used as a extensive library of books here and such backdrop by filmmakers. interesting articles as the first cycle oil TREWARMETT lamp. The museum documents cycling 1 miles SE of Tintagel on the B3263 history since 1881. On the riverbank at Slaughterbridge, lies A mile or so up the valley from Trebarwith another museum; the Arthurian Centre Strand is the Prince of Wales Slate Quarry, houses the Land of Arthur exhibition, whose ponds and spoil heaps are now a covering Arthur-related art and poetry by
19

peaceful and little visited nature reserve. The Quarrys pumps were steam powered and the well-preserved Beam Engine House is a prominent feature on the skyline. Another quarry, Jeffreys Pit, has a picnic area beside it - a good place to wrap yourself in the mystery and grandeur of Cornwalls industrial past - the dog will love it too! Close by the woodland is carpeted with bluebells in April and May. This moorland village, like so many places in this area, has associations with the legend of King Arthur - here an ancient rectangular enclosure surrounded by stone slabs is said to be one of the places where King Arthur held court.
Isaac, Port Quin and Boscastle until the railways took over the transport of the stone in the 1890s. This slate village overlooks both the ocean and the moors, thus affording the onlooker stunning views inland towards Roughtor and Brown Willy, with equally breathtaking seascapes of the North Cornwall coast in the same vista.
LAUNCESTON
Launceston (pronounced Lance-son) is the ancient capital of Cornwall and was once the site of the Royal Mint and the only walled town in Cornwall. Situated on the Devon and Cornwall border and between two moors Bodmin and Dartmoor - the town allows easy access to West Devon, the Tamar Valley and North and South Cornwall. It is a town of contrasts, from the antique to the ultra modern, overlaid with a sedate, well-to-do charm. The architecture is stunning and can only be appreciated on foot. It was here, shortly after the Norman Conquest, that William Is half-brother, Robert of Mortain, Earl of Cornwall, built a massive castle overlooking the River Kensey. A place from which Robert tried to govern the fiercely independent Cornish people, Launceston Castle was subsequently the base of the Earls of Cornwall. Visited by the Black Prince and seized by the Cornish rebels of 1549, the castle changed hands twice during the Civil War before becoming an assize court and prison that was famous for imprisoning and executing on the nod. It was here, in 1656, that George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, was held for several months. Launceston developed around its castle, which still dominates the skyline from the top of a grassy mound just west of the centre, though all that now remains is the rough-hewn cylindrical keep and round curtain
DELABOLE
3 miles S of Tintagel on the B3314
Cornwalls only producer of slate today is the massive operation at Delabole Slate Quarry. It claims to be the largest man-made hole in Europe. The high quality dark blue slate has been quarried here without interruption since Tudor times, making it the oldest continuously worked slate quarry in Europe. It is known that in around 2000 BC the Beaker folk on Bodmin Moor used slate as baking shelves. Delabole is almost literally, built of slate: it has been used for houses, walls, steps and the church. Once known as the great slate road, the lanes to the west of Delabole used to carry vast quantities of stone to the harbours at Port Gaverne, Port
Delabole Slate Quarry
20
walls. The outer bailey is now a public park. During World War II the castle was used as a military hospital. North of the castle, Castle Street was described by John Betjeman as having the most perfect collection of 18th century townhouses in Cornwall. Its red brick buildings include Lawrence House Museum, a graceful setting for some well-displayed local exhibits, which includes items relating to John Couch Adams, co-discoverer of the planet Launceston Steam Railway Neptune, who was born in nearby Laneast (also see Laneast). The museum is locomotives used to haul the trains were closed during the winter. built in the 1880s and 1890s by the famous East off Castle Street, on Church Street, Hunslet Engine Company of Leeds, and worked the 16th century St Mary Magdalene Parish on the slate-carrying lines high in the Church is almost all the work of a local mountains of North Wales. In addition to a squire Sir Henry Trecarrel and is noted chiefly station buffet (cream teas a specialty), the for its ornately carved granite faades no railway also has a model railway display, mean feat, considering the unyielding workshops open to the public, a transport qualities of granite. Portraits of Sir Henry and museum and a book and gift shop. There are his wife can be seen on the south side of the also veteran cars and motorcycles on show in porch, while under the east window is a the small transport museum here. Close to the recumbent figure of Mary Magdalene; station at Newmills is a riverside farm park according to local lore, if you throw a stone with indoor and outdoor games for children. over your shoulder and it lands on the Just off the A30, 3 miles west of effigys back, you will receive good luck. Launceston, Trethorne Leisure Farm The Highlights inside the church include the fine Gateway to Cornish Leisure has a great Perpendicular pulpit painted red, black and variety of farm animals. Visitors are white, and contrasting Art Nouveau carved encouraged to touch them and to bottle feed bench ends. The tower is much older, being lambs. There are also pony and shire horse part of the original church built by Edward rides, ballpool, fun castle, indoor maze and the Black Prince in the 14th century. tenpin bowling. Open every day (except three To the west of the town, and running days over Christmas), all year round. through the beautiful Kensey Valley, the Launceston Steam Railway takes visitors on a journey back in time. Travelling in either open or closed carriages, passengers can enjoy a round trip along 5 miles of narrowLANEAST gauge track to Newmills and back. The
AROUND LAUNCESTON
5 miles W of Launceston off the A395
THE WHITE HORSE INN
Launceston The White Horse is known for its excellent food and friendly atmosphere. See entry on page 123
The village of Laneast was home to one of the moors most famous sons. John Couch Adams (1819-92) was a brilliant scholar who went on to attend Cambridge and eventually became director of the Cambridge Observatory. He is best remembered for determining the presence of Neptune (work which at the time was ignored). Couch Adams refused a
21

knighthood offered by Queen Victoria to honour him for his accomplishments. Laneast is also home to one of the many holy wells found in this part of the county. The well is now housed in a 16th century building, close to which stand a tall Celtic cross and St Sidwell and St Gulvat Parish Church, which is mainly Norman.
BODMIN MOOR
Ask many people about Cornwall and they probably will not even mention Bodmin Moor. It does not incorporate a wonderful coastline, there are no hidden gardens or superb biomes - but it does have stunning countryside, wonderful wildlife, unspoilt villages and some of Cornwalls most important prehistoric sites, including The Hurlers and Trethevy Quoit Quoit is the Cornish name for a type of megalithic structure comprising granite rocks arranged into what may have been burial chambers, whose outer covering of earth has washed away over the centuries. Stretching for 30 miles through the middle of Cornwall Bodmin Moor, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, which lies between 800 and 1,400 feet above sea level and covers around 100 square miles, is the smallest, mildest, most accessible of the West Countrys great moors. The granite upland is characterised by saturated moorland and weather-beaten tors and from here the rivers Inny, Lynher, Fowey, St Neot and De Lank flow to both the north and south
ST CLETHER
6 miles W of Launceston off the A395
An elaborate holy well can be found a few hundred yards northwest of this tranquil village, standing on its own on a brackencovered shelf in the valley of the River Inney. With its adjacent 15th century chapel, this well is the most enchanting of its kind in the county. The village itself has St Clederus Parish Church, which is part Norman but heavily restored by the Victorians; however, a number of earlier features have survived, including the Norman stone pillars and font, and the 15th century tower.
NORTH PETHERWIN
5 miles NW of Launceston off the B3254
Situated above the River Ottery, this village is home to the privately owned Tamar Otter & Wildlife Centre. The sanctuary is open for visits from 1 April (or Good Friday if earlier) to the end of October. Otters are fed at noon and 3pm and owl talks take place at 11.30am and 2.30pm. Remember to sponsor an animal on your visit; all proceeds go towards the upkeep of the centre and wildlife. The parish church is one of the oldest in Cornwall and is beautifully maintained by the vicar and parishioners.
The Cheesewring, Bodmin Moor
WARBSTOW
8 miles NW of Launceston off the A39
This village is overlooked by Warbstow Bury Hillfort, one of the countys finest forts. On the interior is a low mound known as King Arthurs Grave, once believed to be a Neolithic long barrow, but now regarded as a medieval pillow mound or rabbit warren. There are wonderful views over northern Bodmin Moor from the fort.
22
coasts of Cornwall. At 1,377 feet, Brown Willy is the highest point of the moor and of Cornwall while, just to the northwest, lies Roughtor (pronounced row tor), the moors second highest point. Standing on National Trustowned land, Roughtor is a magnificent viewpoint and also the site of a memorial to the men of the 43rd Wessex Regiment who were killed during World War II. Throughout Dozmary Pool, Bolvemtor this wild and beautiful moorland there are the remains left behind by earlier her baby and the spirit of a young smuggler occupiers: there are scattered Bronze Age hut who is believed to have been murdered at circles and field enclosures, such as Fernacre the bar and who has been reported to be Stone Circle, and Iron Age hill forts. seen sitting on the wall in the courtyard. Just to the south of Bolventor lies the mysterious natural tarn, Dozmary Pool, another place that is strongly linked with the legend of King Arthur. According to one tale, Lying at the centre of the moor, Jamaica Inn King Arthur was brought here following his is one of the areas chief focuses for walkers, final battle at Slaughterbridge, near sightseers and coach parties alike. The Camelford (many places lay claim to the site authoress Daphne du Maurier immortalised of his death, and indeed to his birth). As he Bolventor when she chose it as the setting for lay dying at the waters edge, he implored her famous novel Jamaica Inn, featuring his friend, Sir Bedivere, to throw his sword, Cornish smugglers she described the inn as Excalibur, into the centre of the lake, where being alone in glory, four square to the it was received by a ladys hand rising up winds. Now Cornwalls most famous inn, it from the water. However, there are several was once a former coaching house; an inn has other lakes around the country, notably Looe occupied the main road through the village Pool at Mounts Bay and both Bosherstone and since 1547, the present building dates to Llyn Llydaw in Wales, which also lay claim to 1750. The combination of its literary being home to the Lady of the Lake and the association and its convenient position has resting place of Excalibur. led to its development as a hotel and The lake is also the source of another, restaurant complex to the development of a more obviously Cornish myth, that of Jan Smugglers Museum. Modern visitors to the Tregeagle, a wicked lawyer and steward of inn can relive the smugglers experience, Lanhydrock who sold his soul to the devil. His which boasts one of the finest and most extensive collections of smuggling artefacts 8 JAMAICA INN AND MUSEUMS in Britain; there is also a display of various Bolventor items owned by Daphne du Maurier, including There are fascinating her writing desk and typewriter. displays, as well as good food, drink and Rumoured to be haunted, the Jamaica Inn accommodation at this featured in an episode of Living TVs Most inn Immortalised by Haunted. Notable apparitions include a Daphe du Maurier in her malevolent figure of a highwayman in a trinovel. cornered hat, a distressed young mother and See entry on page 122
BOLVENTOR
23

many evil deeds include the murder of the parents of a young child whose estate he wanted. As a punishment, so the story goes, Tregeagle was condemned to spend the rest of time emptying the supposedly bottomless lake using only a leaking limpet shell. His howls of despair are said to be heard there to this day. The diamond-shaped lake usually preserves an ethereal air, though its been known to run dry in summer, dealing a bit of a blow to the legend that the pool is bottomless.
AROUND BOLVENTOR
ALTARNUN
4 miles NE of Bolventor off the A30
By the picturesque packhorse bridge, the chiefly 15th century church in Altarnun dedicated to St Nonna, mother of David the patron saint of Wales has been dubbed the Cathedral of the Moors. The church has a 108-feet pinnacled tower that rises high above the peat-stained river. Look out, too, for the set of 79 superb bench ends, carved at the beginning of the 16th century, boldly depicting secular and sacred subjects such as saints, musicians, clowns, moorland sheep and even a bagpipe player. In the churchyard stands the only relic of St Nonnas time, a Celtic cross that is thought to date from the same time as her journey here from Wales in around AD 527. Also in the churchyard are slate memorials that were carved by local sculptor Nevil Northey Burnard, who became famous when he sculpted the head of Edward VII, then Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall, he is also responsible for the effigy of John Wesley, the founder of Methodism (see also Trewint). Situated in a steep-sided valley of Penpont Water, this pretty, granitegrey village also has literary associations with Daphne du Maurier; the Old Rectory of 1842, which lies close to the church, is featured in her most famous novel Jamaica Inn. The land around Altarnun, known as East Moor, is an unrestricted open access area that includes the 1,100-feet Fox Tor and the Nine Stones Circle.
St Nonnas Church, Altarnun
TREWINT
3 miles N of Bolventor off the A30
The busy A30 carries visitors from Launceston to Bodmin and beyond and cuts through Trewint but if you dont know where to look, you will miss the hamlet altogether. And that would be a pity for in the village there is one of the most hallowed Methodist sites in Cornwall. Wesley Cottage is the former home of Digory and Elizabeth Isbell who entertained John Wesley, the founder of Methodism, on some of his visits to Cornwall in the mid 18th century. But there is much more to the story than that. One day in 1743 two of Wesleys men, John Nelson and John Downs, came to Trewint and called at the house of a stonemason called Digory Isbell. Digory was at work at the time, so his wife Elizabeth gave the two men refreshment. They then insisted on paying, and fell on their knees to pray without using a prayer book. Digory was told this story on his return, and was so impressed that a year later Wesley himself was entertained in the house. Shortly after this, Digory was inspired by a passage in
24

the Bible to build an extension to his house for the use of Wesley and his preachers. The rooms, thought to be the smallest Methodist preaching places in the world, have been maintained in the 18th century style and visitors can see the specially constructed Prophets Chamber and Pilgrims Garden. Digory and Elizabeth Isbell are both buried in the churchyard at nearby Altarnun. Local legend has it that if you run round the iron railings surrounding their tombstone twelve times, then put your fingers in your ears, you will hear the bells of heaven.
turned to stone for playing the Celtic game of hurling (a form of hockey) on the Sabbath. Visitors from all over the world come to dowse the stone circles, claiming to feel energy emanating from them. A line drawn through the centres of the circles points to Rillaton Barrow, a large burial mound known as tumulus. In 1837 a gold, corrugated cup was found within the barrow; this is now in the British Museum, with a copy in the Royal Cornwall Museum in Truro.
ST CLEER
6 miles SE of Bolventor off the B3254
UPTON CROSS
7 miles SE of Bolventor on the B3254
A handsome village that is home to Sterts Theatre, which has one of the few open-air amphitheatres in the country, Upton Cross is also the place where Cornish Yarg Cheese originated from and Cornish Blue, which was the winning cheese in the World Food Awards of 2010.
MINIONS
6 miles SE of Bolventor off the B3254
In the heart of the former 18th century granite, copper and lead mining belt of Bodmin Moor is the village of Minions. Here you can walk along the disused mineral railway and the surrounding area also offers a wealth of archaeological interest from early Bronze Age onwards. This was also the setting for EV Thompsons historical novel, Chase the Wind. Today, a former mine engine house of the Phoenix Mine has become the Minions Heritage Centre, which covers over 4,000 years of life on the moorland and includes the story of mining as well as the life and times of much earlier inhabitants of this area. Close to the village stands The Hurlers, a wide complex of three stone circles dating from about 1500 BC. The purpose of these stark upright stones is not known, though The Hurlers, Minions local lore declares them to be men
Like nearby Minions, this sizeable moorland village was overwhelmed, and transformed, by a copper-mining boom in the mid 19th century, which has been compared in its intensity and in its social and economic repercussions, to that of the North American gold rush. There are older historical stories to be told here too; dating from Neolithic times and found a mile east of the village, Trethevy Quoit, also known as The Giants House, is an impressive enclosed chamber tomb, which originally formed the core of a vast earthwork mound. The largest such structure (known as a dolmen) in the county, Trethevy Quoit is believed to be over 5,000 years old and, although the rectangular hole cut into the stone blocking the tombs entrance was thought to allow bodies to be placed inside, the reason for the hole in the capstone is not known with any certainty.
25
26
Also close by is King Donierts Stone, a tall stone cross which was erected in memory of King Durngarth, a Cornish king thought to have drowned in the nearby River Fowey in AD 875. The Latin inscription on the cross, which is now sadly in two pieces, reads, after translation, Erected for Doniert for the good of his soul. In the village itself is St Cleers Holy Well, in a beautiful 15th century building. There used to be a total immersion (or bowssening) pool Golitha Falls, St Cleer here which was used for the attempted cure of the insane; the patients were ending up by the amazing underground lake. tossed up and down in the waters until they It also merits a visit for its splendid 15th became sane. century St Anietuss Parish Church, which Downstream from King Donierts Stone, the contains some of the most impressive River Fowey descends for half a mile through dense broad-leaved woodland in a delightful medieval stained-glass windows of any parish series of cascades known as Golitha Falls. church in the country. In one, God is depicted This outstanding beauty spot is also a National measuring out the universe during the Nature Reserve, and the grey wagtail and the Creation while, in another, Noah can be seen great spotted woodpecker are among the rare with his Ark, which takes the shape of a birds to be seen. sailing ship of the period. Perhaps the most interesting window of all is that of St Neot, ST NEOT the diminutive saint after whom the village is 6 miles S of Bolventor on a minor road named. St Neot became famous for his miracles involving animals and one story tells St Neot is one of Bodmin Moors prettiest of an exhausted hunted doe who ran to the villages and is a good access point for the side of the saint. A stern look from the saint southern part of the moor. For a true sent the pursuing hounds back into the forest, underground experience, be sure to pay a while the huntsman dropped his bow and visit to Carnglaze Caverns and The Rum became a faithful disciple. Another tale, and Store. Carnglaze consists of three one that can be seen in the church window, underground caverns set in the Loveny Valley tells of an angel giving Neot three fish for his at St Neot. Carnglaze which means blue rock well saying that, as long as he only eats one pile in Cornish, goes back long before the fish a day there will always be fish in the dinosaurs roamed the earth. The mud which well. Unfortunately, when Neot fell ill his would become the slate that is Carnglaze was servant took two fish from the well, cooked being laid down underneath the seas from as them and gave them to Neot who, horrified, long ago as 500 million years. Now the prayed over the meal and ordered the fish to caverns are available for all to see. In recent return to the well. As the dead fish touched years Carnglaze Caverns has found notoriety the water they came alive again. as an unusual concert venue. The first of the caverns, The Rum Store, is so called because WARLEGGAN the Royal Navy used it during the Second 5 miles SW of Bolventor off the A30 World War to store its supply of rum. In 2001 it was converted into an auditorium with The remote location of this hamlet, up a seating for 400. You can take a guided tour steep wooded lane, has led to its long around the main spectacular cavern, walking associations with the supernatural and it has down the steps, going underground, and long been acknowledged as a haunt of the

Cornish piskies. However, Warleggans most eccentric inhabitant was the Reverend Frederick Densham who was the parish priest from 1931 to 1953. Disliked by his parishioners he built a high wall round the rectory and withdrew from the world. He even painted the church and rectory in garish colours, but was ordered to remove the paint by the Bishop of Truro. As no villagers would go to his church he preached to an empty church and filled it with cardboard cutouts for a congregation; one record in the parish registry of the time reads, No fog. No wind. No rain. No congregation. It does appear that the rector did have a kinder nature, however, as he constructed a childrens playground in the rectory garden. After his death people began returning to the church. It is said his ghost still haunts the village.
Beacon, a high area of moorland south of the town centre. It was erected in 1856 in memory of Sir Walter Raleigh Gilbert, a local dignitary who distinguished himself as a general in the Bengal army. On Mount Folly, the Gilberts and other local worthies in the towns history are recalled in Bodmin Town Museum. More absorbing is the next-door Courtroom Experience, housed in the Georgian Shire Hall formerly the assize court. The exhibition features an hourly re-enactment of the trial of Matthew Weeks. Weeks went to the gallows for the murder of Charlotte Dymond, but was he guilty? Visitors can hear the evidence and cast their votes as part of the jury, and the 45-minute session also includes a visit to the cells. The Cornish poet Charles Causley remembers Charlotte Dymond in a ballad: It was a Sunday evening And in the April rain That Charlotte went from our house And never came home again. Housed in The Keep, next to Bodmin General Station, The Duke of Cornwalls Light Infantry Regimental Museum covers the history of the regiment, which was formed as marines in 1702 and played an important part in the capture of Gibraltar in 1704. The museum has two main galleries and its many important exhibits include eight Victoria Crosses and George Washingtons bible captured in 1777 during the American War of Independence. Battle honours decorate also the largest parish church in Cornwall. In the 6th century, St Petroc, one of the most influential of the early Welsh missionary saints, visited Bodmin and in the 10th century the monastery he had founded
BODMIN
The town of Bodmin itself lies to the west of the moor, equidistant between Cornwalls north and south coasts and at the junction of two ancient cross-country trade routes. It would be easy to pass through Bodmin without seeing anything more than another non-descript market town, but the dismissive passer-by would be missing a wealth of attractions and historical curiosities. From the old Town Jail and Military Museum, to the Steam Railway and Camel Trail, to the wild beauty of nearby Bodmin Moor and immaculate formal gardens of Lanhydrock, a wide variety of treasures are open to anyone willing to pause a moment and look closer. A prominent landmark in Bodmin is the Gilbert Memorial, a 144-feet obelisk occupying a commanding location on Bodmin
THE WEAVERS
10 BODMIN & WENFORD RAILWAY

Bodmin Discover the excitement and nostalgia of steam travel with a journey back in time on the Bodmin & Wenford Railway, Cornwalls only full size railway still regularly operated by steam locomotives. See entry on page 125
Bodmin You are in for a treat at The Weavers. There is fantastic hospitality as well as tremendous food. See entry on page 124
27
Bodmin Jail
in Padstow moved here as a protection against sea raids by the Vikings. The granite hulk of St Petrocs Parish Church is one of six dedicated to the saint in the county, and indeed the 15th century building is certainly one of the most impressive in all Cornwall. Because of this, when Cornwall became a Church of England diocese in its own right in 1877, Bodmin was one of the places considered for its new cathedral (see also St Germans, St Columb Major and Truro). Building began on the site of the former Norman church in 1469 and, funded by the townsfolk even the local vicar gave a years salary the church was completed in 1472 at a cost of 268. Though remodelled in the 19th century, it has retained its splendid Norman font, whose immense bowl is supported on five finely carved columns, and the ivory casket that is thought to contain the remains of St Petroc. The town is also renowned for its abundance of holy wells; one of them, dating from the 6th century, is in the churchyard, along with a little well house. Work started on the Roman Catholic St Marys Church on St Marys Road in 1937, having first of all been located next to the Anglican church. It finally opened for worship in 1965. It is unusual in that it was founded by the Canons Regular of the Lateran. Of the places and buildings to visit here, Bodmin Jail, on Berrycoombe Road, is the most interesting, a spooky, all-weather attraction. It was the former county prison and dates back to 1779 when it was built for King George III, using 20,000 tons of granite from the local quarry. The jail is menacingly
redolent of the executions that were once guaranteed to pull the crowds. The last hanging took place here in 1909. You can explore parts of the original 18th century structure, including the condemned cell, all now considerably run down and gloomily eerie. This too was the place where, during the Great War, Crown Jewels, state papers and the Domesday Book were hidden for safe keeping. Head north of the town and you are on the famous Camel Trail 18 miles of traffic-free walking, cycling and horse riding along the River Camel where you can make for the edge of Bodmin Moor or coastwards, along the lovely Camel Estuary, to the market town of Wadebridge and the charming harbour at Padstow. In summer, you can also approach the Camel Trail on steam locomotives of the Bodmin and Wenford Railway. There are one-off events throughout the year, including jazz specials, fish and chip specials, steam and diesel galas and murder mysteries. Lovers of the days of steam will enjoy a generous dose of nostalgia when seeing the resident steam locomotives: GWR pannier tank 6435, GWR prairie tank 5552, 2-8-0 tank 4247 and ex-Southern Railway 30587, a 2-4-0 well tank dating from 1874. There are also four diesels in residence.
AROUND BODMIN
CUTMADOC
2 miles S of Bodmin off the A38
To the west of the village lies one of Cornwalls most absorbing country houses, Lanhydrock House. Entered through an imposing pinnacled gatehouse (1651), Lanhydrock was originally constructed in the 17th century, the house was laid out on four sides of a square, but the east wing was removed in 1780, creating the present Ushaped house. That was until a disastrous fire in 1881 destroyed most of the building and brought about the death from shock of its owners, Viscount Clifden and his wife. The granite exterior remains true to its original
28
The Gatehouse, Lanhydrock
form, retaining all the splendour while being High Victorian in tone. Fifty rooms are open to the public, and as well as admiring the magnificent plaster barrel-vaulted ceiling, depicting scenes from the Old Testament, in the Long Gallery visitors can also see the nursery wing and the grand dining room and play the Steinway piano. Most illuminating of all is the kitchen, built in the style of a college hall with clerestory windows and supplemented by an unending series of dairies, sculleries, larders and pantries, with a pit large enough to roast an entire cow. Lanhydrock is possibly the grandest house in Cornwall, and you should allow at least one and a half to two hours for a complete tour. Plus the thousand acres of wooded parkland bordering on to the River Fowey are worth a prolonged wander, especially in spring for the spectacular beds of magnolias, azaleas and rhododendrons. Catering outlets in the servants quarters and old stable block offer a variety of menus, and the shop sells a wide range of goods, many of them locally produced.
with intricate spirals and rings. It was damaged during the war by bombs intended for Bodmin. St Meubred was one of those obscure Cornish saints about whom very little is known. It is thought that he was in fact Irish, and came to Cornwall to preach. He was later beheaded in Rome, and his body was sent back to Cardinham for burial. Now a peaceful backwater that is enjoyed by both walkers and cyclists, the 650-acre Cardinham Woods was in medieval times the site of Cardinham Castle, a Norman motte and bailey castle. Belonging to the Cardinham family, under-lords of Robert of Mortain, Earl of Cornwall, the structure was abandoned in the 14th century and today only an earthwork mound remains on which a few traces of the original keep have been preserved. There are also the remains of an old silver mine. This attractive and varied woodland was acquired by the Forestry Commission in 1922 and is managed by Forest Enterprise for commercial forestry, producing, among others, a high quality Douglas fir for the British timber industry. It is a haven for a wide variety of wildlife, with otters on the river, red and roe deer, ravens and buzzards. The site has several waymarked woodland trails, and cycling is allowed on some of them. Visitors will also find a cafe and a picnic area with barbecue facilities. Close by is Pinsla Garden & Nursery, a magical space full of intense scent and colour surrounded by wild Cornish woodland. The 1 acre garden contains herbaceous and shrub
11 PENLAN EATING HOUSE

Fourwinds, nr Cardinham A diverse eaterie, cafe by day and an inviting licensed restaurant by night, serving fine food coupled with quality service. See entry on page 126
CARDINHAM
3 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30
A small village on the western slopes of Bodmin Moor. St Meubreds Parish Church is 15th century, and in its churchyard stands a worn 10th century cross richly decorated
29

borders, alpines and cottage garden beds, jungle planting, paths lined with granite boulders, a tree tunnel and a stone circle in the meadow. The owners grow and stock a wide range of plants in the nursery.
BLISLAND
6 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30
Found down a maze of country lanes, at the centre of this moorland village is the treelined village green which has stayed faithful to its original Saxon layout - an uncommon sight on this side of the River Tamar. Fine Georgian and Victorian houses, a rectory and an inn complete the picture but it is the uniquely dedicated St Protus and St Hyacinth Parish Church that takes the attention of most visitors. A favourite of Sir John Betjeman, who described it as dazzling and amazing, the part-Norman building has a bright whitewashed interior, a good wagon roof, an unusual mock-Renaissance altar and two fonts, one Norman and the other dating from the 15th century. A couple of miles further northeast, the village of St Breward grew from the granite quarrying industry in the area that left a legacy of sturdy granite cottages and small, granite-hedged fields.
winning house, the series of family portraits, many by eminently fashionable painters of the time, are particularly superb. A guide will give you the lowdown on the familys history and encourage you to tinkle the piano on which Sir Arthur Sullivan, a guest here in 1882, composed much of the music for Iolanthe. Excellent furniture and exquisite porcelain are also on show, along with a collection of antique dolls. It was Sir William Molesworth, the Secretary of State for the Colonies, who, during Parliamentary recesses in the mid 19th century, began the ambitious remodelling of the gardens and grounds. Todays visitors benefit from his splendid plans as this internationally renowned garden contains over 700 different species of rhododendron, camellia, blue hydrangea and specimen conifers. Leave plenty of time to explore these beautiful wooded grounds.
NANSTALLON
2 miles W of Bodmin off the A389
WASHAWAY
5 miles NW of Bodmin on the A38
In the opposite direction to Lanhydrock, and near Washaway village, the milelong drive at Pencarrow House might suggest something on the same scale, but this country house has a very different, more intimate feel. The Georgian building was erected in the 1770s by the Molesworth-St Aubyn family and, still living here, they have over the years remodelled the house on two separate occasions. Of the many beautiful items to be seen on a visit to this award-
Close to this village, on sunny slopes above the River Camel, are Camel Valley Vineyards, where red, white and sparkling wines are produced from 20,000 vines. The Lindo familys vineyard is open to visitors from April to the end of September. The village has two routes onto the Camel Trail, one at Boscarne, the other at Nanstallon Halt on the old railway line.
Camel Valley Vineyards, Nanstallon
30
SALTASH
Situated on the west bank of the beautiful River Tamar, and once the base for the largest river steamer fleet in the southwest, Saltash has gone through a number of names in its 1,000-year history. Its been called Villa de Esse, Ash, and Assheburgh over the years. With narrow streets that rise up steeply from the riverbank, the town has long been the Gateway to Cornwall for many holidaymakers, who cross the River Tamar into Cornwall at this point via one of the towns mighty bridges. The wrought-iron Royal Albert Bridge carries the railway while, alongside, is the much more slender Tamar Bridge, completed in 1961. This modern suspension road bridge replaced the ferry service which had been in use since the 13th century. A tunnel was also constructed to ease the ever-increasing flow of cars through the town. Though older than Plymouth, on the other side of the Sound, Saltash, particularly with the construction of the road bridge, is now becoming almost a suburb of the city. However, though heavily influenced by its neighbour, Saltash has retained much of its charm and Cornish individuality, and Saltash people still talk of going over into England when crossing one of the bridges. The towns strategic position and maritime interests led to its involvement in many important events. The Waterside is
considered the historical heart of Saltash; this is where the main trade and commerce originated. Modern visitors should look out for the painted mural on the side of the Union Inn, depicting local characters and events. During the Civil War, 1642-46, fighting took place here on several occasions, resulting in numerous fatalities (mostly on the Parliamentarian side) and the destruction of many buildings. The engineer-genius Isambard Kingdom Brunel chose Saltash as the site for a bridge, of unique design, to carry the railway in to Cornwall. The Royal Albert Bridge, Brunels masterpiece completed in 1859, is undoubtedly the towns most famous feature. On the old quayside there are several interesting buildings to discover. The mainly 17th century Guildhouse stands on granite pillars and close by is Mary Newmans Cottage, a quaint old building that was the home of Sir Francis Drakes first wife. Dating from the 15th century, the cottage and gardens are occasionally open to the public April to October. Soon after the Conquest in 1066, the Normans built a motte-and-bailey castle in a commanding position 1.5 miles southeast of Trematon village. Trematon Castle (not open to the public) has walls that are over 15 feet thick, and so secure was it that the treasures collected by Sir Francis Drake after his trips abroad were stored here.
AROUND SALTASH
CALLINGTON
7 miles N of Saltash on the A388
Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash
This old market town, which lies at the foot of Kit Hill (to the north), began life as a Celtic settlement called Celliwic, and was then settled by the Saxons. Once a prosperous mining town, the areas heritage, landscape and character can be seen by wandering around the interesting and unusual Mural Trail, where local scenes have
31

been painted on the walls of the towns buildings by professional and amateur artists. A booklet available from the Town Clerks Office explains where the murals are, who painted them and what they depict. There really is something to be seen around every corner. Callington Heritage Centre is housed in an old cemetery chapel on Liskeard Road. The town is the headquarters of Ginsters, the well-known firm of pasty makers. Overlooking the River Lynher, to the southwest of the town, lies Cadsonbury Hillfort - a massive Iron Age bank and ditch, encompassing a hill, that are thought to be the remains of the home of a local chief. To the east of Callington lies the attractive early 16th century Dupath Chapel, a granite building that houses Dupath Well. The waters of the well were thought to cure whooping cough, and were also used in baptisms held in the chapel.
there are outstanding views across southeast Cornwall to Plymouth Sound, and on a clear day south as far as the Eddystone Lighthouse 37 miles away. The abundant archaeological remains are a reminder of the metal and stone extractive industries, which once took place on the hill. It was at Kit Hill in AD 835 that the Battle of Hingston Down took place, where King Egbert of Wessex defeated Cornish and Danish forces. In the 18th century a man called Sir John Call built a folly to commemorate the battle, and its remains can still be seen.
ST ANNS CHAPEL
KIT HILL
8 miles N of Saltash off the B3257
Climbing to just under 1,000 feet above sea level Kit Hill is the highest point of Hingston Down Ridge, within the Tamar Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. From the summit
The Tamar Valley Donkey Park is Cornwalls only donkey sanctuary situated in beautiful Cornish countryside, with views to Plymouth Sound, between Gunnislake and Callington. It is home to 28 donkeys, over 20 goats, ponies, sheep, pigs, rabbits and more. Visitors are able to feed and pet the friendly animals. The Donkey Drop-In all weather play barn, provides indoor play and covered donkey rides for wet-weather days. The sanctuary survives only by the entry charge and the Adopt-aDonkey scheme. Open daily from April for the summer season and weekends in winter.
ST MELLION
Named after St Melaine, a 6th century bishop of Rennes in France, the village is now best known for the St Mellion International Golf Resort. The resort was selected as the venue for the revived English Open in 2009 and will host it until at least 2014. The English Open was last held at Forest of Arden in 2002 and it is 13 years since the Cornish venue played host to a tour event.
GUNNISLAKE
Kit Hill Summit
Often referred to as the first village in Cornwall, Gunnislake is a charming community that is set in the beautiful wooded valley of the River Tamar. In the
32
Cotehele House, nr Calstock
1520s, Sir Piers Edgcumbe of Cotehele House built the New Bridge, a striking 180 feet long, seven-arched granite structure which continues to serve as one of the major gateways into the county. In fact, this remained the lowest crossing of the river by road until the early 60s when the massive suspension bridge linking Plymouth with Saltash was opened. The river crossing at Gunnislake meant that the village was a place of strategic importance, a feature which made it the centre of bitter fighting during the Civil War. Part of the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail between Plymouth and Launceston is the Gunnislake Village Trial, which consists of several walks between one and three miles long with easy-moderate walking (some hills). These walks take you past historic sites of interest with stunning views of the River Tamar and Valley. The trail takes in scenery painted by JMW Turner in 1815 such as his famous painting Crossing the Brook, a picture of New Bridge and the surrounding valley at Gunnislake.
zenith as a port came in the last century when it served as an area of intense industrial and mining activity, when vast quantities of tin, granite and copper ore were brought here for loading on to barges to be transported down the Tamar to the coast and beyond. In the countryside surrounding Calstock the remains of old mine workings, along with the spoil heaps, can still be seen along with the remains of the villages boat-building industry. A mile downriver stands Cotehele House, owned by the National Trust since 1947, it is one of the best-preserved and least altered medieval houses in the country. Built largely between 1485 and 1539, it remained in the Edgcumbe family for, 600 years though their residence at Mount Edgcumbe (see also Cremyll) from the end of the 17th century meant that Cotehele remained mostly unmodified, preserving its tranquil Tudor character. Each of the rooms displays something that grabs the eye. The fine arch-braced Hall, with its bare lime-ash floor, has a rare set of folding, mid 18th century chairs, still with their original leather, while the Old Dining Room, hung with Flemish tapestries, leads to the chapel in which you can see the earliest domestic clock in England, dating from 1485 and still in its original position. The house also incorporates some charming individual features such as a secret spy-hole to the Great Hall. Near the house, a great medieval barn contains a gift and plant shop and a restaurant with dishes that reflect the special character and history of Cotehele.
CALSTOCK
6 miles NE of Saltash off the A390
12 COTEHELE HOUSE
St Dominick, nr Saltash Set in a riverside estate, Cotehele has many features including Tudor fireplaces and rich hangings. See entry on page 127
An important river port since Saxon times, the village of Calstock with its tall white houses clings to the steep Cornish bank of the Tamar. It was mentioned in the Domesday Book, and was part of the Earldom of Cornwall in the 13th century. Calstocks
33

The grounds are densely wooded and full of surprises. A mile-long walk brings you to the working Water Mill on the Tamar. Also along the river, and close to the estates old cider house and restored corn mill, lies Cotehele Quay, a busy river port in Victorian times. The quay buildings now house The Discovery Centre, an art and craft gallery and a licensed bistro. The restored Tamar sailing barge Shamrock is moored alongside the museum. Also in the grounds, at the foot of a combe stands a tiny chapel situated on a promontory 70 feet above the rivers edge. Upstream, beyond Calstock, Morwellham Quay was another important 19th century river port, from which the ore and minerals extracted from the local mines was transported to the coast. In 1844 the largest copper lode in Europe was discovered 4 miles from the quay, and a company called the Devon Great Consols was formed to exploit it. A railway was built in 1856 to bring the ore to the quay, and another inclined plane railway was built, passing beneath the cottages in a specially dug tunnel. In its day, Morwellham Quay was the greatest copper exporting port in Britain, and supported a population of 300 people. Today, the staff in Victorian garb help to bring history alive. Visitors can take a riverside tram ride and explore the George & Charlotte copper mine; watch blacksmiths, potters and carpenters at work in the old cottages; say hello to the shire horses; take a carriage ride around the village; and make the most of the countryside in the nature reserve, a mixture of marshland, woodland, meadows and fields that is designated both an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Theres also an opportunity for you to play your part! Authentic replica costumes are available for you to try on, while the children find out what life was really like working on the
Morwellham Quay, nr Calstock
dressing-floors of the mine or acting as servants in the Samplers House.
TORPOINT
3 miles SE of Saltash on the A374
This small town grew up around the ferry service that began running across the Hamoaze (as the Tamar estuary is called at this point) between here and Devonport in the 18th century. South of the town is a pretty inlet of the sea known as St Johns Lake, one of the few salt water lakes in England. However, this can only be seen at
13 SHEVIOCK BARTON BED & BREAKFAST

Sheviock, nr Torpoint Fantastic bed and breakfast accommodation housed in a 300 year old building with flagstone floors and oak beams. See entry on page 127
14 ST JOHN INN
St Johns, nr Torpoint Beautiful country pub that serves quality cask ales and excellent locally produced food. See entry on page 128
34

certain times as it is completely tidal and dries out as the tide recedes. Just 2 miles northwest of Torpoint is Antony House and Gardens, chosen by Director Tim Burton as a location for the 2010 Disney adaptation of Alice in Wonderland. The estate has been transformed so visitors can enter the oversized land of Alice: have a go at croquet; look out for the giant chessboard; become the queen, king or a knight; enjoy tea parties; meet the Mad Hatter, Cheshire Cat and Alice herself. When the house is open, youll be able to spot several of the films locations and read about the changes that were made during the filming, and theres a recreation of Alices bedroom where children are able to play.
CREMYLL
4 miles SE of Saltash on the B3247
18th century, with authentic Regency furniture in the elegantly restored rooms. The contents include paintings by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Irish Bronze Age horns, 16th century tapestries and 18th century Chinese and Plymouth porcelain. In the adjacent Earls Garden are several ancient and rare trees, notably a 400-year-old lime and a Mexican pine. The extensive, magnificent grounds, which incorporate land from Cremyll westwards along the peninsula to Tregonhawke, include the historic 18th century gardens that contain an orangery, and Italian, French, English, American and New Zealand gardens. Since 1976, Mount Edgcumbe has housed the National Camellia Collection. The Country Park, which takes in a stretch of heritage coastline, has freely roaming fallow deer and numerous buildings sited to create views and atmosphere.
This village, which is linked to Plymouth by a foot ferry first started in about 1204, is an excellent place from which to explore Mount Edgcumbe House, the 16th century home of the Earls of Edgcumbe who moved here from Cotehele House, near Calstock. Mount Edgcumbe is a winning combination of Tudor house, landscaped gardens and acres of beautiful rolling parkland alongside the sea. Though the house is a reconstruction of the Tudor original that was gutted by incendiary bombs in 1941, the inside is predominantely
French Gardens, Mount Edgcumbe
MAKER
5 miles S of Saltash off the B3247
Dating from the 15th century and retaining much of its original charm, Maker church, whose name is derived from a Cornish word meaning ruin, was comprehensively restored in the 19th century. It is the family church of the Edgcumbes, and inside the church is a copy of a portrait of the early 18th century vicar here, Thomas Smart. It is not the subject but the artist that makes this work particularly special: at the age of 12, Joshua Reynolds made drawings of the vicar on the back of his hymn book during a service and then, back at a Cremyll boatyard, painted the original portrait on to canvas. Just north of the church, surrounded by woodland and hidden within an oratory, lies St Julians Well, which is dedicated to the 5th century saint who is, aptly for this area, the patron saint of ferrymen. Also known as the poor
35

man, he was a popular saint in Western Europe, which has also made him the patron saint of innkeepers and - curiously enough - circus performers.
CAWSAND AND KINGSAND

5 miles S of Saltash off the B3247
Cawsands narrow lanes of colour-washed and red-stone cottages descend to a quay and beaches in a protected bay. Until 1830, the Devon/Cornwall Kingsand Beach border divided the village from Kingsand, its slightly smaller twin village just a few minutes walk north Rame itself is the older, 13th century Church up the coast and marked by its Institute clock of St Germanus, which is still lit by candles; tower right on the sea. for centuries its west tower and spire acted From Cawsand or Kingsand, you can follow as a landmark for sailors. the coast path south around the peninsula for WHITSAND BAY sweeping views of Plymouth Sound and the open sea from the headlands of Penlee Point 5 miles S of Saltash off the B3247 and Rame Head, while both villages lie just a Running between the hamlet of Portwrinkle mile east of the extensive sands of Whitsand and Rame Head, this impressive stretch of Bay, the best bathing beach in the area. beach is more a series of coves than one RAME continuous expanse of sand. There are various paths leading down the slate cliffs 6 miles S of Saltash off the B3247 some of which are over 250 feet high - to the Positioned at the southeastern end of gently curving bay. Tregonhawke is the main Whitsand Bay and the southernmost point of beach in the area and has a small cafe and Mount Edgcumbe Country Park, spectacular toilet facilities. Access to the beach is via a Rame Head guards the entrance to Plymouth narrow, steep cliff path. Whitsand Bay Surf Sound. There are, naturally, superb views Lifesaving Club is located on the beach. With from the 400 feet cliffs but this beautiful the wind blowing from the southwest, the 4 headland has its own special feature - the miles of flat sands here get long ranks of ruined 14th century St Michaels Chapel, rollers, but as the currents can be strong, from which a blazing beacon told of the swimmers should take care not to go too far coming of the Armada. In the little hamlet of out. The South West Coast Path runs the length of the bay.
15 WRINGFORD DOWN
Forder, nr Rame Fantastic self-catering and bed & breakfast accommodation located on the picturesque Rame Peninsula. See entry on page 129
PORTWRINKLE
5 miles SW of Saltash on the B3247
This small seaside village on Whitsand Bay developed around its medieval harbour and once had a thriving fishing industry. Portwrinkle has two sand-and-shingle beaches with rock pools. If you walk east
36

out of the village towards Crafthole, a signpost points you towards Tregantle Fort, built between 1858 and 1868 as part of the Plymouth defences.
ST GERMANS
4 miles W of Saltash on the B3249
The village of St Germans is on the River Tiddy, part of the beautiful estuary of the Lynher which joins the Tamar just downriver from Saltash. The glory of the village is its magnificent Port Eliot House, St Germans Norman church, St Germans Parish Church named after St Germanus, bishop of Auxerre in France in the 4th and 5th grounds, opened to the public for the first centuries. It stands on the site of a Saxon time in March 2008. Home to the Eliot family cathedral and was the largest church in the since 1564, Port Eliot is one of the most county until the construction of Truro magical and hidden stately homes in England Cathedral in 1910. In 1877, when Cornwall with a long and fascinating history. The became a diocese in its own right, St Germans present Grade 1 listed house, with its Gothic was one of the places that put its name style turrets, is largely 19th century, although forward as the site of the cathedral (see also it does include fragments of the ancient Bodmin, St Columb Major and Truro). monastic buildings. The grounds date from Inside the church are several striking the late 18th century when Humphry Repton features, the most impressive being the laid them out. Currently the 10th Earl and Burne-Jones east window and the monument Countess of St Germans occupy the house to Edward Eliot. The Eliot family acquired although the contents of the house reflect the priory shortly after Henry VIIIs the accumulation of 30 generations of the Dissolution of the Monasteries and renamed ever prospering Eliot family. Amongst the their new estate Port Eliot. Port Eliot and familys collections there are family portraits
16 TRENETHICK FARMHOUSE B&B

Trerulefoot A real Cornish experience for you and your horse. See entry on page 130
17 HAY LAKE FARM

Landrake A small holding offering comfortable bed and breakfast accommodation with a spectacular breakfast and warm welcome. See entry on page 129
and a seascape showing Plymouth by Joshua Reynolds and several interesting pieces of museum quality furniture including an early Boule armoire. The park and more than 100 acres of gardens include a cast rhododendron garden, a maze, a bowling green, orangery, arboretum and magnificent view of the estuary and a Brunel viaduct. Considered one of the most magical gardens in England, the house and grounds remain secluded from the outside world. It is a tranquil haven. Recently, it has been the venue for a literary festival, the Port Eliot Lit Fest. Another of St Germans exceptional buildings, the Sir William Moyles Almshouses, were built in 1583 to an unusual design - the row has prominent gables and a long first-floor balcony which is reached by a sturdy external staircase. Surrounded by neatly kept stone cottages
37

set in flower filled gardens, the almshouses were restored in 1967.
LOOE
Looe was drawing crowds as early as 1800 when the first bathing machines were wheeled out, but the arrival of the railway in 1879 was what really packed its beaches. The two Looe rivers, the East Looe and the West Looe, create a tidal harbour which has been a fishing and seafaring port from at least the beginning of the 13th century through to the 19th century, when stone and copper from the quarries and mines in the north were shipped for export. Even today, it still has Cornwalls second largest fishing fleet. Originally two separate towns called East Looe and West Looe which faced each other across the narrow estuary, they were first connected by a bridge of 14 arches in about 1411, the first estuary bridge in Cornwall. They were finally, officially incorporated in 1883. The present day seven-arched bridge dates from 1853 and carries the main road linking the two towns. Of the two distinct parts of the town, East Looe is where most of the action takes place and also the older, with its narrow cobbled streets and twisting alleyways. Housed in one of the towns
several old buildings is the Old Guildhall Museum in Higher Market Street, East Looe. It dates from 1500, and details much of Looes history along with that of the surrounding area. The buildings old magistrates bench can still be seen here as well as three log books of Looes lifeboats, the official town regalia and a collection of minerals and ores. Aside from the museum, its East Looes long harbour that holds all the interest. Looe is also an important venue for sailing events and is the traditional home of the Redwing. It was a style of boat designed in the 1930s by Uffa Fox specifically for Looe Bay, and was reasonably cheap to build while still seaworthy enough to cope with the Cornwall coast. Swimming, sunbathing, fishing and boat trips are other popular ways of spending a few happy hours, while the more intrepid can don mask and snorkel and take to the water to visit the wrecks that lie scattered along the coast. Among these is HMS Scylla, an ex-naval frigate deliberately sunk in 2004 to become a haven for divers. One of the most popular excursions is out to Looe Island (variously known as St
18 KELLYS OF LOOE
East Looe Award winning and well loved this popular fish restaurant and takeaway offers excellent hospitality and excellent facilities for all, year round. See entry on page 131
19 DAISYS CAFE
East Looe Have a pit stop in Looe at Daisys caf where kids, dogs and muddy boots are all welcome. See entry on page 132
Looe Harbour
38

Georges Island and St Nicholas Island), a mile or so offshore. The island comprises 22 acres of woodland and was made famous by the Atkins sisters, Babs and Evelyn, in their books We Bought an Island and Tales from our Cornish Island. Since their deaths, it has been handed over to the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. A natural sanctuary for sea and woodland birds and one-time haunt of smugglers, its known history includes a Benedictine chapel built in 1139 of which only a few stones remain visible. Legend has it that Joseph of Arimathea landed here with the child Christ. Looe Island can be reached, throughout the summer, when the Wildlife Trusts Islander boat provides trips across. In the West Looe Valley, Kilminorth Woods are a Local Nature Reserve rich in woodland plants and wildlife. The area has been wooded since at least 1600, and also here is the Ancient Monument known as the Giants Hedge, a 6th century bank about 15
miles long between Looe and Lerryn, probably built to defend the territory of a local chieftain. Overlooking Looe Bay is the famous Monkey Sanctuary - for over 40 years the Victorian house and gardens have been home to several different species of monkeys, including Amazonian Woolly, Capuchin and Barbary Macaques. This is an active rescue centre, and experienced keepers are on hand to give talks while indoor displays explain more about the monkeys life and their natural habitat. The gardens around the sanctuary are home to many native plants and insects. Plants for the monkeys to eat are grown in a forest garden, and the Tree Top cafe takes care of hungry humans.
AROUND LOOE
SEATON
3 miles E of Looe on the B3247
20 TOM SAWYERS TAVERN

Hannafore With breathtaking views, fine cuisine, a well stocked bar and two stunning letting rooms, this inn really has it all. See entry on page 132
21 POLRAEN COUNTRY HOUSE

Sandplace, nr Looe Known for warm friendly hospitality, a relaxed country house atmosphere, and excellent food, Polraen Country House Hotel offers an ideal escape from the stresses and strains of everyday life. See entry on page 133
Seaton is a small village to the east of Looe at the mouth of the River Axe. The mile long beach is excellent for watersports and is popular with dog owners. There is also the Seaton Valley Countryside Park, a woodland walk along a river valley. It is now a local nature reserve with a level path that is suitable for wheelchairs. Seatons unique tramway runs inland, along the Axe Estuary, to the medieval market town of Colyton.
DULOE
3 miles N of Looe on the B3254
Nestled unobtrusively in the corner of a field beside a Cornish hedge stands Duloe Stone Circle, the smallest stone circle in Cornwall.
22 WINDERMERE HOUSE
St Martins, nr Looe Alun and Zelia would like to offer you a clean, quiet and relaxed bed and breakfast holiday to tour Cornwall. See entry on page 133
23 OLD LANWARNICK
Duloe Where the beauty, mystery & ancient history of Cornwall meets modern luxury living! See entry on page 134
39

Some 38 feet in diameter with Duloe Stone Circle seven (of eight) standing quartz stones, this circle is said to be older than Stonehenge. The present setting is the result of restoration in the last century when a burial urn of the late Bronze Age (2000-500 BC) was found at the base of one of the stones. The circle can be accessed via a signposted track between two houses in Higher Stonetown to the southwest. The Duloe Torque, a gold bracelet from the Bronze Age, was discovered in a field near the village, and is now in Truro Museum.
ST KEYNE
PELYNT
4 miles W of Looe on the B3359
The Parish Church of St Nonna, in this large and rather exposed village, not only has an unusual classical aisle (dated 1680) but it is also associated with Bishop Trelawny (16501721). Hawkers famous song Song of the Western Men, which is almost a Cornish national anthem, recounts the story of Bishop Sir Jonathan Trelawnys incarceration in the Tower of London. As well as seeing the chair put inside this 14th century church in his memory, there is also a fragment of the bishops coffin and his pastoral staff. The Trelawney family lived at Trelawne, one and a half miles south east of the village.
LANREATH
5 miles NW of Looe on the B3359
The village of Lanreath has been awarded the Best Kept Village accolade in Cornwall. Walking around this pretty village you can enjoy the old cob cottages on Fore Street. They were built using material from the earth. Many originally would have sported a thatched roof. In 1620, the Punch Bowl Inn became the very first licensed public house in the Land, parts of the building date back even earlier. The building has served variously as a courthouse, coaching inn and smugglers den.
St Keyne, anciently called Lametton, is believed to be named after one of the daughters of King Brychan Brycheiniog, a Welsh king. Her famous holy well, St Keynes Well, lies a mile southeast of the village. In Victorian times the well had the reputation of conferring supremacy to the marriage partner who first tasted it. Robert Southey (1774-1843) the poet even wrote a famous poem about it. One of the more curious episodes in St Keynes history took place during the reign of Catholic Mary Tudor, when the local rector and his wife (who had married during the reign of Protestant Edward VI) were dragged from their bed in the middle of the night and placed in the village stocks. The only other distraction hereabouts lies at the exhibition of Magnificent Music Machines, where an hours enthusiastic tour brings you face-to-face with a delicate 1895 polyphon, a Wurlitzer cinema organ from 1929 and various fairground and cafe organs.
LISKEARD
A picturesque and lively market town, situated on undulating ground between the valleys of the East Looe and Seaton rivers, Liskeard was one of Cornwalls five medieval stannary towns - the others being Bodmin,
40

Lostwithiel, Truro and Helston. The name stannary comes from the Latin word for tin, stannum, and these five towns were the only places licensed to weigh and stamp the metal. However, the town is an ancient one, and was mentioned in the Domesday Book in 1086. In 1240 it was granted its first Royal Charter by Robert, Earl of Cornwall, brother of Henry III, giving it the right to hold a market. In 1294 the town sent two members to parliament and continued to do so until the Reform Act of 1832. Notable among the MPs were Edward Gibbon, author of The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, and Isaac Foot, father of the famous Foot family. The town has a long history as a centre for mineral extraction and, for centuries, the medieval Cornish tinners brought their smelted tin down from Bodmin Moor for weighing, stamping and taxing. The construction of the Liskeard and Looe Union Canal, linking the town with Looe, saw, by the 19th century, great quantities of both copper ore and granite also passing through Liskeard bound for the coast and beyond. In the 1850s, the canal was replaced by the Looe Valley branch of the Great Western Railway and a scenic stretch of the line is still open today, though the industrial cargoes have long since been replaced by passenger
24 CORNISH QUAY HOLIDAYS

Liskeard Offering a series of over 50+ holiday cottages and waterside properties, this business is superb. Each building is fabulously decorated and finished to a high standard. See entry on page 135
carriages. There are still remnants of the canal to be seen, which was finally drained and abandoned in 1910. An annual walking festival using the railway takes place each September. The Looe Valley Line starts from its own station in Liskeard and drops under the main line to the quiet junction at Coombe. Here the driver and guard change ends and the train reverses along the East Looe Valley for the 7-mile trip to Looe. Though a small town, Liskeard boasts two sets of public buildings which are a reminder of its past importance and prosperity. The Guildhall was constructed in 1859 while the Public Hall opened in 1890 and is still used as the office of the town council. Adjacent to the Passmore-Edwards Public Library stands Stuart House, a handsome Jacobean residence where Charles I stayed in 1644 while engaged in a campaign against the Parliamentarian forces at nearby Lostwithiel. St Martins Parish Church is also worthy of a mention as, not only is it the second largest parish church in Cornwall, but this mainly 15th century building stands on Norman foundations, and has an early 20th century tower that blends in perfectly with the medieval architecture. In June 2002 HRH Prince Charles formally opened the Liskeard and District Museum, housed in the former Foresters Hall. It has a lively display of artefacts connected with the town. Finally, one of Liskeards most curious features can be found in Well Lane, where an arched grotto marks the site of Pipe Well, also known as the Well of St Martins and the Well of Lyskerit, a medieval spring that is reputed to have curative powers, especially afflictions of the eyes. The well has never been known to run dry.
25 THE HIGHWAYMAN
Dobwalls, nr Liskeard This is a delightful establishment, serving great food at phenomenal prices. Popular with both locals and visitors alike. See entry on page 136
WADEBRIDGE
Wadebridge, one of north Cornwalls main market towns and gateway to the Camel Trail, is not only attractive but also renowned for its craftware. One of the earliest recorded mentions of the town of Wadebridge, was in 1313 when a market and two fairs were granted to Wade the name of
41
Royal Cornwall Show, Wadebridge
Wadebridge before the bridge was built. At this time the town was in two parishes, Egloshayle and St Breock, either side of the river Camel. There were also two chapels, St Michaels on the west side and Kings chapel on the east. Travellers gave thanks at both sides after a safe crossing. A major development occurred in the next century. The bridge, which must have revolutionised life in the town, was built by the Reverend Lovibond in 1460 and has 17 arches along its 320 feet length. Legend has it that it was built on wool sacks or bales but it seems more likely that this suggestion, that the bridge was built on wool, means that the money used from its construction came from the wealth of the wool trade. So important was the bridge that Oliver Cromwell himself came with 1,500 troops to take control of it in 1646. The bridge still carries the main road which links the towns two ancient parishes. The churches of these two parishes can still be seen today: 13th century St Breocks Parish Church stands in a picturesque wooded valley that is known as Nancient
26 BRIDGE ON WOOL
Wadebridge This property is beautifully decorated and offers great food, drink and bed and breakfast accommodation, perfect for families and those wishing to explore the history of Wadebrudge See entry on page 137
(from the Cornish for holy well) while across the river from the main town, stands St Petrocs Parish Church, in Egloshayle, the church at the centre of Reverend Lovibonds ministry and to which he donated the money to build the imposing 80 feet tower. To the southwest of St Breock lies St Breock Downs. In the heart of this exposed land stands the ancient St Breock Downs Monolith (English Heritage), a striking Bronze Age standing stone that was originally 16 feet high and now weighs at least 16.5 tons, making it the heaviest in the county. It is also known as the Men Gurta (the Stone of Waiting). Other prehistoric remains, such as the Nine Maidens, a row of nine stones dating from the Bronze Age, can also be found on the downs. The towns former railway station is now home to the John Betjeman Centre dedicated to the life and work of the muchloved Poet Laureate. The main building was formerly the Old Wadebridge Station, used by both Great Western and Southern Railways. The last passenger train left Wadebridge for Bodmin in January 1967, and after years of neglect the building re-opened as a day recreation centre. It opened in 1988 and a new building was added in 1991. The Memorabilia Room contains a variety of personal mementos, drafts of his works, academic honours and furniture that belonged to the author. Although the railway line, which opened in 1899, closed in the 1960s, a stretch of the trackbed has been used to create the superb Camel Trail. The trail leads up into the foothills of Bodmin Moor, to the east of Wadebridge, whilst to the west the path follows the River Camel to Padstow through an area that is rich in wildlife and, particularly, in wading birds such as herons. Wadebridge is more or less in the middle of the Camel Trail, which is part of the Cornish Way, a network of cycle routes covering Cornwall.
42
AROUND WADEBRIDGE
ROCK
4 miles NW of Wadebridge off the B3314
Rock could hardly be less appropriately named as its popularity is largely due to the long stretches of find sandy beaches washed by the tidal waters of the Camel estuary. Rightly acclaimed as one of the major watersports centres in Cornwall, sailing, windsurfing, water skiing, canoeing and rowing are all activities that can be carried on in the relatively calm waters of the estuary. Also known as Little Chelsea, Rock attracts the young and posh from London. The Black Tor ferry runs from Rock to Padstow all year round during daylight hours and there is a water taxi available for late night revellers. With the increase in water activities, the RNLI have now stationed a D Class lifeboat on the ferry beach, providing cover in case of emergencies. Open-air readings of the poetry of Sir John Betjeman are held during the summer on Brea Hill at Rock.
Sir John Betjemans Grave, St Enodoc
TREBETHERICK
The beach at Trebetherick is well known for its fine bathing and excellent surfing. Few people are tempted away from the sand and sea to visit the 13th century St Enodoc Parish Church, which stands, enigmatically, among the sand dunes above Daymer Bay. So invasive were the surrounding sand dunes that it was often necessary to enter through the roof for services, as a result of this, the church was once known locally as Sinking Neddy, though
some say that this is no more than a fanciful tale. The sand was finally cleared away in the 1860s, when the church was restored, and the bell in the tower, which came from an Italian ship that was wrecked nearby, was added in 1875. The beautiful churchyard contains many graves of shipwrecked mariners who came to grief on the local sandbank known as Doom Bar or at other treacherous places along this stretch of coast. What draws most people to the quiet place of Trebetherick is Sir John Betjemans Grave, just inside the gate. The fondly remembered Poet Laureate spent many of his childhood holidays in the villages and coves around the Camel Estuary and his affection for the local people and the surrounding countryside was the inspiration for many of his works. One of his most famous poems, simply called Trebetherick, recalls his boyhood days spent here.
27 BLUETOMATO
Rock Looking out across the water towards Padstow, the only caf in Rock serves delicious home cooked food year round from its sunny seaside terrace. See entry on page 138
POLZEATH
Polzeath the thumping heart of cool Cornwall according to the Sunday Times, has a magnificent surfing beach known to be one of Cornwalls finest. Tucked just inside the Camel Estuary, the combination of Atlantic swells and the gradually shelving, sandy
43
44
beach means the long, slow breaking Port Isaac Harbour waves produce ideal conditions for improving your surfing skills at every level from novice to advanced. To the north of the village, and much loved by Sir John Betjeman, is wonderful walking country that takes in the cliffs and farmland of Pentire Point and Rumps Point. From the headland of Pentire Point, views unfold for miles over the offshore islets of the Mouls and Newland, with their populations of grey seals and puffins. In the 1930s, Pentire Head was saved from commercial port of corn. A busy port since the Middle development thanks to local fundraisers who Ages, fishing is still an important industry bought the land and donated it to the here, though the heyday of Port Isaac was in National Trust. Half a mile to the east, the the 19th century when not only fish, but scanty remains of an Iron Age fort stand on cargoes of stone, coal, timber and pottery the humpy back of Rumps Point. were loaded and unloaded on the quayside. Huge quantities of pilchard were landed and PORT QUIN processed here and, after the arrival of the 5 miles N of Wadebridge off the B3314 railway, these were gutted and packed in the villages many fish cellars before being This tiny hamlet, along with its small shingle dispatched by train to London and beyond. cove, suffered greatly in the 19th century One of these old cellars is now an RNLI when the railways took away the slate trade inshore D class lifeboat station, while other from its once busy quay. The demise of the cellars have been put to a variety of uses. port was so swift that, at one time, outsiders Port Isaac has seen lifeboats launched off the thought that the entire population of Port north Cornish coast for over 100 years. At the Quin had been washed away in a great storm. harbour, known locally as the Platt, The headland on the south side of Port fishermen still land their catches and the Quin is known as Doyden Point, which is village becomes a hive of activity. picturesquely ornamented with a 19th Port Isaac has been the focus of two TV century castle folly once used for gambling series. The BBC costume drama Poldark, parties. Now it is a National Trust holiday based on the novels by Winston Graham, was property, as is nearby Doyden House. one of the most successful British TV adaptations ever, which was sold to over 40 PORT ISAAC countries. With 29 episodes broadcast 5 miles N of Wadebridge on the B3267 between 1975 and 1977, Port Isaac starred as a frequent location. More recently the village An inspiration for artists, writers, and poets was central to the ITV series, Doc Martin, for centuries, this is one of the most starring Martin Clunes, going by the fictional beautiful and unspoilt parts of Cornwall. Port name of Portwenn. Isaac is a wonderful old-world fishing village Fishermans Friends are a 10-man seathat is so charming everyone falls in love shanty singing group, all of whom grew up with the place. The character of the village within half a mile of Port Isaac harbour, and permeates the air and its dramatic setting, several with links to the sea. Having sung for under high, rocky cliffs gives the whole area fun since 1995, they landed a major record a timeless feel. deal in 2010 after being spotted in a pub by a At one time it exported corn, which is holidaying music mogul. how it got its name, Porth Izic, meaning the

Long Cross Victorian Gardens, Trelights
PORT GAVERNE
5 miles N of Wadebridge off the B3267
Port Gaverne, sister cove to Port Isaac, a busy fishing port in the 19th century where slate was shipped out, and all kinds of merchandise landed for local use, is now a peaceful hamlet with a quiet, sheltered beach and green headlands. One of the safest beaches along the north Cornwall coast, Port Gaverne beach is pebbled and, at low tide, an expanse of sand dotted with rock pools is revealed.
south aisle are 15th century. The bench ends date from the 15th century, and are the churchs greatest glory. One represents Adam and Eve, while another represents Henry II, the huge variety of these rich carvings are worthy of close study. The church also owns three Vinegar Bibles printed in 1717, which, instead of having The Parable of the Vineyard in Chapter 20 of St Lukes Gospel has instead The Parable of the Vinegar. As the printers name was John Baskett, and there were many other misprints in this edition, it has been called a Baskett full of errors. The Vinegar Bibles can be viewed by arrangement. An attraction that brings families to St Miniver is the Porteath Bee Centre. One of the simplest and pleasurable aspects here is that it gives you a chance to observe a swarm of bees going about their business. And best of all there is no risk of getting stung! The exhibition opens to the public from Easter to October.
TRELIGHTS
4 miles N of Wadebridge off the B3314
ST ENDELLION
4 miles N of Wadebridge on the B3314
Close to the village lies the Long Cross Victorian Gardens, the only public gardens on the north Cornish coast. A real garden lovers delight, they remain in the original Victorian garden layout and retain their original splendour.
ST MINVER
The village is visited mainly because of St Menefredas Parish Church. A church certainly stood here in Saxon times, though the present one dates at least from the mid 13th century, when William of Saint Menefreda paid homage to the Prior of Bodmin. The slate pillars in the north aisle are Norman, and the granite pillars of the
This charming village boasts the particularly interesting Parish Church of St Endelienta, built of Lundy Island granite, which houses a major work of the sculptor known as the Master of St Endellion. An anonymous artist in every aspect of his life, the Master of St Endellion has, however, been immortalised by his superb tomb, which is beautifully carved in black Catacleuse stone. The church itself is dedicated to St Endelienta, a Celtic saint who lived solely, so it is said, on cows milk. When a local lord killed her cow in a dispute with a local farmer, he was himself killed by King Arthur, who was St Endelientas godfather. She was able to bring both the cow and the lord back to life. When she died a cart pulled by an ox carried her body, as she had decreed, and when it stopped, that was to be the place of her shrine. The church
45

has a long tradition of bell-ringing and is also the venue of the St Endellion Music Festivals which take place at Easter and in the summer every year, bringing together a wide range of exciting musicians from all over the world. It was at St Endelientas that Sir John Betjeman regularly worshipped, he wrote: Inside, the church gives the impression that it goes on praying night and day, whether there are people in it or not.
ST KEW
3 miles NE of Wadebridge off the A39
The delightful village of St Kew is full of character and derives its name from the 5th century Saint Cywa or Kew, possibly the sister of Docco or Docuin, of Gwent in southeast Wales, who founded a monastery at or near the village. The monastery founded by St Kew is believed to have been destroyed circa AD958-975 during the Saxon invasion of Cornwall under King Edgar. The later 15th century St Kew and St Doghow Parish Church can be found in a wooded hollow, along with the large late Georgian rectory and an Elizabethan inn. The village is also home to an Ogham Stone, an unusual feature in Cornwall and one that is more commonly associated with southwest Ireland. Given its name because it is inscribed with the Ines of Ogham script, the stone also bears a Latin inscription.
walks, particularly along the Coastal Footpath. In fact, Padstow is the start of two of the West Countrys most famous longdistance paths: the 17-mile Camel Trail and the 30-mile Saints Way across the peninsula to Fowey. The site of Padstow was well chosen by its forefathers. For many centuries, Padstows sheltered position in a narrow gulley on the western side of the Camel estuary has made it a welcome haven for vessels seeking respite from the perils of the sea. It has the only safe harbour along this stretch of the North Cornwall coast, after the rocks, currents and winds of the river mouth have been negotiated. The town has been settled by many different people over the years including the prehistoric Beaker folk, Romans, Celtic saints and marauding Vikings. However, the silting up of the River Camel in the 19th century created a new hazard for shipping coming in and out of Padstow harbour and the evocatively named Doom Bar, which restricts entry into the estuary mouth, effectively put an end to this ancient settlement continuing as a major port. It is said that the Doom Bar is the result of a mermaids curse. The story goes that there was once a merry mermaid who watched over the vessels that went in and out of Padstow. One day, a sailor on a visiting boat shot her.
29 THE LONDON INN

Padstow This charming and historical inn offers delicious locally sourced meals, real ale and comfortable accommodation just a stones throw from the harbour. See entry on page 140
PADSTOW
Padstow lies on the Camel Estuary, about 7 miles from Wadebridge. The area is one of considerable natural beauty with beautiful bays, golden beaches and many interesting
28 THE CORNISH ARMS

Pendoggett Authentic Thai food & traditional pub grub. Accommodation available, all with ensuites Entry on page 139
30 THE GOLDEN LION PUB

Padstow The stable of Padstows original Oss and a key part of the ObbyOss festival. See entry on page 141
46

Padstow Inner Harbour
The mermaids curse was that the harbour would become desolate from that time on. Shortly after, a great storm came wrecking many of the ships in the harbour and throwing up the sandbank. In 1827 the first lifeboat was stationed at Padstow in an effort to make it safer. However, the silting up also necessitated moving the Padstow lifeboat on to the open sea, at Trevose Head, five miles away. The new RNLI lifeboat station at Padstow was completed in 2006 and the Tamar Lifeboat Spirit of Padstow was placed on service shortly after. Padstow was originally called Petroc-stow, after the missionary St Petroc. Legend has it that St Petroc, possibly one of the most important of the Cornish saints, arrived from Ireland around AD520 and built a monastery on the hill above the harbour. The son of a Welsh chieftain, St Petroc, like St Francis of Assisi, had a special empathy with animals and according to legend drew the splinter from the eye of a dragon, saved a deer from a hunt and, most spectacularly, rescued a sea monster trapped in a lake. Before moving on to Bodmin Moor to continue his missionary work, St Petroc founded a Celtic monastery here and St Petroc Major Parish Church still bears his name. On his death, St Petroc was buried in Padstow and subsequently, in the 12th century, his bones were transferred to St Petrocs Church in Bodmin, where they were placed in an ivory casket, which can still be seen today. The present building dates from the 13th and 14th centuries and, as well as the octagonal font of Catacleuse stone
carved by the Master of St Endellion, there is a striking Elizabethan pulpit and some rather amusing bench ends, depicting scenes such as a fox preaching to a congregation of geese. The walls are lined with monuments to the local Prideaux family, who still occupy nearby Prideaux Place. Beginning at the door of the church is the Saints Way, a footpath that follows the route taken by travellers and pilgrims crossing Cornwall on their way from Brittany to Ireland. On the northern outskirts of Padstow (follow the brown signs off the B3276) stands Prideaux Place, a superbly preserved example of an Elizabethan mansion that for over 400 years has been the home of the Prideaux-Brune family. This E-shaped house was completed in 1592, with later additions and alterations in a variety of architectural styles. In the 18th century Edmund Prideaux added the formal Italian gardens, and in 1810 Edmunds grandson Charles extended and altered the house in the Gothic style, which was fashionable at the time due to the building of Strawberry Hill at Richmond near London. Inside, youll find grand staircases and richly furnished rooms full of portraits and with fantastically ornate ceilings, while outside there are the formal gardens, and a deer park affording long views over the Camel estuary. Also in the grounds are a temple, Roman antiquities, a 9th century Cornish cross and the newly restored stables with their plaster coat of arms and two exhibitions - one of old farm equipment, the other of past film location work at the house. Peter OToole, Joanna Lumley, Ralph Fiennes, Helena Bonham Carter, Mel Smith, Ben Kingsley and Richard E Grant have all acted at Prideaux Place. Tourism arrived in Padstow with the railway in 1899, with the Atlantic Express running a regular service between London and Padstow. Today, Padstows harbour and nearby shopping streets throng with visitors throughout the summer who come here to
47

see the narrow alleyways and tightly packed slate hung buildings of the old quarter, which has managed to retain much of its medieval character. There is a regular ferry across the river to Rock (see also Rock), a village that has lately been all but taken over by the young and posh from London. The influence of the sea is never far away in Padstow and, more recently, it has become linked with seafood and the best and most famous of Rick Steins gastronomic outlets, well worth the splurge. Any exploration of Padstow should begin at the towns focal point, its Harbour, which is now home to a fishing fleet and filled with pleasure boats of all descriptions. Here can be found many of Padstows older buildings including, on the South Quay, Raleighs Cottage where Sir Walter Raleigh lived when he was Warden of Cornwall, and the minute Harbour Cottage. Raleighs Court House, where he collected the taxes and dues, stands close by beside the river. A popular attraction here is the National Lobster Hatchery, a centre filled with information about lobsters; visitors can see lobsters developing from an egg, still attached to a female, into a juvenile ready to be released into the wild. On North Quay is the 15th century Abbey House, now a private residence but once a meeting place for local merchants. Padstow is famed for its May Day celebrations, the origins of which go back to pagan times. Beginning at midnight on the eve of May Day and lasting throughout May 1, the
St Issey Parish Church
people of Padstow follow the Obby Oss, - a man in a black frame-hung cape and wearing a groteseque mask - around the streets of the town. It is one of the oldest May Day traditions in Europe and consists of much singing, dancing and general merry making.
AROUND PADSTOW
TREDINNICK
3 miles S of Padstow off the A39
To the south of this small stone-built village lies Cornwalls Crealy Great Adventure Park - one of the countys top days out for the family. Whisperings from the Past horse show gives you the chance to get up close and personal with equine giants and miniature ponies in Cornwalls biggest live horse experience. New for 2011 is Dizzy Dina, a dinosaur ride, Pony Express a sit-on ride for younger children, and The Beast, a thrill ride that takes you up and then plunges you back down to earth.
ST ISSEY
2 miles S of Padstow on the A389
On 1st February 1869, the medieval tower of St Isseys Parish Church collapsed and, remarkably its destruction was captured by an early photographer, the resulting photograph of the towers demise also shows a top-hatted policeman looking on helplessly. The present St Issey Parish Church dates from 1871, though there are remnants of some 14th and 15th century work still to be seen. Not only did the church have to be rebuilt, the Catacleuse stone altar piece by the Master of St Endellion had to be meticulously rebuilt piece by piece. There are references to a church at this spot going back to 1190, when the bishop of Exeter gave its patronage to the dean and chapter of Exeter Cathedral.
48

While visiting Padstow in October 1842, the novelist Charles Dickens, inspired by his time in the ancient port, wrote his muchloved story, A Christmas Carol, in which he mentions both Tinnens Cottages and a lighthouse - the one at Trevose Head. He based the character Jacob Marley on his good friend Dr. Miles Marley. His son Dr. Henry Frederick Marley practised in Padstow for 51 years and died at his home in St. Issey on 27th January 1908. In this heartwarming seasonal story, Dickens actually reworks an idea that first began as an interlude in Pickwick Papers and it is plain that the Gabriel Grub character was a prototype for the grasping and miserly Ebenezer Scrooge.
LITTLE PETHERICK
2 miles S of Padstow on the A389
This village sits close to St Issey, on the opposite bank of a little creek. The footpath that follows Little Petherick Creek to its confluence with the River Camel also leads to a splendid viewpoint at which there can be seen an Obelisk, built in 1887 to celebrate Queen Victorias Golden Jubilee.
legendary figure conjured into existence in the 19th century. Some of the larger of these massive flat-topped slabs have been given names of their own. Samaritan Island is named after a ship wrecked on the beach in 1846 - with the locals rescuing the cargo of luxurious silks and satins for themselves. Another rock, whose curious formation has been likened to the profile of Queen Elizabeth I, is referred to as Queen Bess Rock. However, any resemblance there ever was to the Virgin Queen has long since been wiped away by the wind and the waves. By far the best view of the beach can be found from the grassy clifftops 300 feet above. The beach makes a great place to ramble about, but swimming at Bedruthan Steps is not advised owing to the rocks and often violent waves. The area around Bedruthan is also rich in prehistoric sites; within two miles there are no less than six Bronze Age barrows and two cliff castles dating from the Iron Age.
PORTHCOTHAN
4 miles SW of Padstow on the B3276
BEDRUTHAN STEPS
5 miles SW of Padstow off the B3276
One of Cornwalls most dramatic beaches, Bedruthan Steps, whose jagged slate outcrops were traditionally held to be the steppingstones of a giant called Bedruthan, a
Bedruthan Steps Beach
Porthcothan is a lovely sandy bay with a small stream running across a fine golden sandy beach, which is sheltered by sand dunes and craggy headlands. At low tide the beach opens out, connecting up with small coves, and at high tide the beach becomes very sheltered from swell and winds due to the cliffs. Today, the National Trust owns much of the land around the cove, and there is a car park and toilets operated by the local council. A popular beach with families, the lifeguard season dates from May - September. In days gone by, this cove was the haunt of smugglers, who were able to land their contraband safely and in secret. The footpath over the southern headland leads to Porth Mear, another secluded cove beyond which, on a low plateau, is a prehistoric earthwork
49

of banks and ditches. Porthcothan is part of the seven bays for seven days grouping of beaches. These include Constantine, Trevone, Harlyn and Treyarnon, which are all very close by.
ST MERRYN
2 miles W of Padstow on the B3276
TREYARNON
3 miles W of Padstow off the B3276
This small hamlet lies at the southern end of Constantine Bay and has one of a succession of fine sandy beaches that can be found on either side of Trevose Head. Though conditions here are ideal for surfing, the strong currents around the beach make swimming hazardous. The sand dunes backing the beaches along Constantine Bay are covered with marram grass and tamarisk shrubs and through here the South West Coast Path passes on its way northwards to Trevose Head.
TREVOSE HEAD
4 miles NW of Padstow off the B3276
The stormy headland at Trevose is one of the shorter Heritage Coasts at only two and a half miles (Ed: for consistency this should really be 2 but I cant do half in correct size and font) in length. Fine sandy beaches adjoin the headland like bookends, but Trevose Head itself is rugged and severe, carved out of hard volcanic rock. This remote area is reached via a toll road, but it is a trip well worth making as, from the headland, there are wonderful views down the coast that take in bay after bay. The area is popular with surfers, who delight in the strong winds and waves along the whole Atlantic coast of Cornwall. For drier pursuits, there is excellent walking along the cliffs, with wildflowers and buterflies abundant in spring. The South West Coast Path rambles through Trevose Head on its 630-mile journey from south Dorset to north Somerset. At the tip of the headland stands the Victorian Trevose Lighthouse, built by Thomas and Jacob Olver of Falmouth in 1847. The light stands some 204 feet above sea level and from here, at night, lights from four other lighthouses can be seen.
St Merryn was a Welsh saint born around AD 496 who went to live in Brittany. On his way, he founded a small church, where the present St Merryns Parish Church now stands. Dating originally from the 13th and 14th centuries, it was partially restored in the 20th century, when the windows, floor, pews and roof were replaced, but there is still much of the earlier church to be admired. The font came from the ruins of the nearby St Constantines Church. In the garden of a private house in this small village is a modern day Celtic monument that is as impressive as any of the many prehistoric sites found in Cornwall. The Angels Runway, three large, granite standing stones with a huge, flat capstone, was built in 1987, and is a direct copy of a Neolithic chamber tomb. There are other copies of famous Cornish stone circles and rocking stones to be seen here. The parish of St Merryn has no fewer than seven unspoilt beaches on its seaward boundary.
TREVONE
1 miles NW of Padstow off the B3276
Sheltered by Trevose Head and Rumps Point, the seemingly gentle and peaceful sandy cove at Trevone is guarded by vicious offshore rocks. A quiet place that can be reached by way of the coastal path from Padstow, the rock pools that are formed on the beach at low tide, particularly one that is around 6 feet deep, provide the safest bathing. An 80feet deep blowhole just above the beach is a great attraction. In 2007, Trevone Bay was used as the setting for a Renault Clio Ripcurl
31 THE OLIVE TREE

St Merryn, nr Padstow A fantastic restaurant serving simple food in a relaxed atmosphere, with many dishes being influenced by Italy. See entry on page 142
50

Tolcarne Beach, Newquay
advert, featuring two surfers contemplating going into the sea.
NEWQUAY
Newquay has a defiantly youthful air, making it difficult to imagine the town enjoying any history extending more than a few years back. In fact Newquay has 1,600 years of history and has seen a dramatic change of identity from fortified cliff settlement, through tiny port to premier resort. Iron Age Man smelted ore here for weapons and tools, Industrial Age Man made it his conduit for the trade in tin and china clay, but Modern man found its hidden gold; the chain of eleven beaches have transformed Newquay in less than a century into the most popular holiday resort in Cornwall. Sixteen hundred years ago all that existed within the modern boundary was a settlement on Porth Island. In 1439 Bishop Lacey of Exeter allowed the burghers of what was then called Towan Blystra to build a New Quay. It was the beginning of the towns second life as a fishing port, culminating in the arrival of the great pilchard shoals of the 18th century and the sgalvanisingtirring cry of Hheva! from the whitewashed Huers Hut, still standing above the harbour. Here, the Huer would scan the sea looking for shoals of pilchards, which caused the water to turn red, and, once spotted, he would alert the fishing crews by calling hevva,
hevva, meaning found, found, through a long loud-hailer. He would then guide the boats towards the shoal with semaphore-style signals using a pair of bats known as bushes. The term hue and cry comes from the same source. In the 17th and 18th centuries, low wages from fishing and agriculture were supplemented by smuggling and more sinisterly the wrecking made famous in Daphne du Mauriers Jamaica Inn. Celebrity entrepreneur and TV Dragon, Duncan Bannatyne, masterminded Newquays latest innovative swashbuckling adventure, Buccaneer Bay (a redevelopment of a long-established attraction, Tunnels Through Time). Stunning visual affects, atmospheric lighting and an amazing sound system provide an exciting backdrop for 21st century attractions such as Scare and the The Sunken Village of the Damned. Take a journey through the coves and lanes of old Cornwall where sight, sound and smell fire the imagination sort of Madame Tussauds does pirates. These days Newquay is the resort with all the nightlife, but not so much of the culture. However, there is the Lane Theatre, the only theatre in Newquay, it. The theatre seats 136138, has a licensed Cosy Nook bar, facilities for the disabled and a free car park. Comedy plays are presented throughout the summer season. The theatre is owned and operated by Newquay Dramatic Society. The stunning beaches in Newquay alone combine the roles of playground, stadium and theatre, providing an unrivalled source for
32 BLUE REEF AQUARIUM

Newquay A magnificent range of marine life from around the world. The centrepiece being a stunning coral reef display housed in a giant 250,000 litre ocean tank. See entry on page 142
51
52
traditional English seaside pursuits as well as since 1988 and is one of Britains longest a launch pad for a full range of watersports running and most highly reputable surf such as surfing, kitesurfing, waveski, schools. mountain boarding and extreme activities for Run to the Sun Festival was created from beginner and champion alike. Towan Beach is a natural affinity between the car and beach one of those fine beaches overlooked by the culture, the surfers love of the VW Beetle, town, and is the closest to the town centre. and has grown into one of the largest Custom Situated on the Towan Promenade, the Blue Car, VW and dance festivals in Europe since Reef Aquarium brings the Atlantic on-shore its conception in 1987. Now thousands of car with a fascinating slice of life beneath the enthusiasts from across the UK and beyond waves. Walk a tunnel through a giant tropical travel to Newquay to indulge in this annual ocean display and enjoy over 30 living festival, which attracts somewhere in the displays featuring amazing sea life. Theres a region of 80,000 visitors each year. daily programme of talks and activities at If you feel like escaping the seaside this fascinating place. Great Western and crowds, youll appreciate the tranquility of Tolcarne are also popular with families, and Trenance Gardens, formal gardens with usually less crowded. streams and a boating lake next to the The biggest of Newquays beaches is Gannel estuary, a haven for wildlife. Here the Watergate Bay, a glorious expanse of fine mild climate caused by the Gulf Stream sand 3 miles out of town on the Padstow ensures that palm trees flourish. Within road. Here and at Crantock, Fistral, Towan, Trenance Leisure Park, Waterworld offers Great Western, Porth and Tolcarne and two indoor swimming pools, a 60-metre flume Mawgan Porth beaches a lifeguard service and other entertainment; theres also crazy operates in the summerMay to September. golf and a mini train ride. Newquay Town Council hired the first fullThe park is also home to Newquay Zoo, time lifeguards in 1959, and during the 1960s more than 250,000 people visit this zoo each lifeguards were recruited from as far afield year. The zoo is set in over ten 10 acres of as Australia, South Africa and Hawaii. Warren sub-tropical lakeside gardens. Here Mitchell, a lifeguard from Australia, worked conservation, education and entertainment in Newquay and he saw an a RNLI inshore go hand in hand. With Red Pandas, zebra, lifeboat on ain service. He was inspired and antelope and lions from the African plains to he took the idea back to Australia and the nocturnal world of the Rodrigues bats, developed the modern lifeguard inshore zoo trails and talks by the keepers, there is rescue boat. always plenty here to see and do for visitors All of the above beaches are popular with of all ages. If you like animals then you and surfers, but the jewel in Cornwalls crown and the most Surfing at Fistral Beach, Newquay challenging is Fistral Beach, fully exposed to the Atlantic, the fierce breakers make it an ideal venue for national and international competitions. The standard of surfing in the water is high, especially at North and Little Fistral. Experts and intermediates paddle out by the rocks using the rip while beginners stay to the middle of the bay. The National Surfing Centre Surf School on Fistral beach has been established
the family will love enjoy Bridge at Porth Beach DairyLand Farm World, near Newquay, a fabulous all-weather family day out with attractions suitable for all age groups. DairyLand Farm World is a real working farm and children of all ages will love the endless list of attractions on offer to them. From pony rides to tractor rides, bottle-feeding to milking, there is certainly something for everyone. Every season a free newspaper is published, containing features of local families - very wide with lots of room to interest and a Whats On guide. The build the biggest and best sandcastles and summer months feature such events as a then to explore the many rock pools. Porth balloon festival, gig-racing for both men and beach is regarded as one of the safest womens teams, surfing and surf life-saving beaches for swimming in the Newquay area. A events and championships and the RNLI spectacular feature of the beach is the blow Lifeboat Day. For a full list of events contact hole at the end of the island which can be the Newquay Tourist Information Centre. seen at mid tide - especially on windy days. Because of its position at the heart of Trevelgue Head (Porth Island) becomes an Cornwall, Newquay makes the perfect island at high tide. An Iron Age fort once touring base to explore its history and stood here, the ramparts are still impressive legend and with its nearby Newquay Airport and the site is most dramatic when a heavy its easily reached too. To the northeast is sea attacks the cliffs. Tintagel where Merlin wove his spells and MAWGAN PORTH King Arthur held court. To the east is Roche 4 miles NE of Newquay on the B3276 Rock, spiritual home of the Cornish Gorsedd and the wildly beautiful moorland of On the coast at Mawgan Porth the remains of Bodmin. And south is the 11th century a Saxon settlement can be made out. Various Restormel Castle, one-time home of the 9th to 11th century dwellings that formed Black Prince, the beautiful valley of the part of this fishing and herding community Fowey and the lushly different riviera of can be seen near the beach as well as the sleepy estuaries, secluded coves and foundations of a larger courtyard house and a picturesque fishing villages like Mevagissey. cemetery. You can learn about the ancient artefacts that were unearthed during the last century and about the people who roamed these shores over a thousand 1,000 years ago. Carbon dating has shown that some of PORTH the items found in the unearthed settlement were from the years AD850-1050. This is a 1 mile E of Newquay on the A3059 great place to bring children to see objects Originally a separate village, with its own from the past and help them understand what shipbuilding yards and pilchard cellars, Porth life was like for their ancestors many years has now been engulfed by its larger ago. The ancient tower of St Mawgan Parish neighbour Newquay. However, the beach at Church dates back to the 14th century and Porth still brings visitors and is ideal for has a peal of eight bells.
AROUND NEWQUAY
53

The coastline between here and Padstow, to the north, is rugged and among the most impressive to be found in Cornwall. If you walk inland through the Vale of Lanherne, you will come to St Mawgan village and the historic town of St Columb where you can still explore its medieval buildings.
you can recline on the balcony and take in the stunning overview. The village inn, The Falcon, is reputed to have been named during the Reformation when it was the practice to release a bird into the air to signal that a secret Catholic mass was about to take place.
ST MAWGAN
4 miles NE of Newquay off the B3276
ST COLUMB MAJOR
6 miles E of Newquay on the A39
St Mawgan village is two 2 miles up the vale from the beaches of Mawgan Porth. It is a particularly attractive village and provides a real oasis of calm. There is a granite and slate manor house, once the home of Richard of Arundell, Marshall of England some 700 years ago. The restored 13th century St Mawgan and St Nicholas Parish Church has one of the finest collections of monumental brasses in the country and most are of the Arundell family, whose 13th century former manor house, Lanherne, was taken over by a closed Carmelite order of nuns in 1794 who had fled the French Revolution. There is also a fine pulpit dating from 1553 and a 15th century rood screen. Outside, in the churchyard, stands a beautifully carved lantern cross dating to around 1420, w. While here too can be seen an extraordinary timber memorial in the shape of the stern of a boat that is dedicated to ten unfortunate souls who froze to death in their lifeboat after being shipwrecked off the coast in 1846. East meets west at the authentic Japanese Garden and Bonsai Nursery, in the centre of the village. Diminutive it may be in size, but its paths lead through a myriad of Japanese maples, azaleas and rhododendrons, and other features include a koi pond, bamboo grove and a teahouse from where
33 THE FALCON INN

St Mawgan With award winning gardens, its own a la carte restaurant and the tranquillity of rural village life, this B&B has much to offer. See entry on page 143
In 1860 William Butterfield, drew up plans in hope of St Columbas Parish Church becoming the cathedral of the future diocese of Cornwall, but the town lost out to Truro. However, the towns claims for this prestigious prize were not unfounded as the St Columbas Parish Church is unusually large and cathedral-like in appearance. The tower is a fine example of a 15th century building, consisting of four stages with battlements and pinnacles. It is 80 feet high and contains eight bells re-hung in 1950. In 1920 the chiming clock was added as a memorial to the men of St. Columb who died in the Great War. It is also home to some of the finest 16th and 17th century monumental brasses in the county - those dedicated to the influential Arundell family. Sir John Arundell, who died in 1379, lies buried in the church. It was several centuries earlier that Sir John Arundell, having supported Edward III in his wars against the Scots, was rewarded by the granting of a Royal Charter, in 1333, which gave St Columb Major market town status. There has been much conjecture about who St Columba was. Some say he is the same Irish saint who crossed to Iona in Scotland, though why his influence should have stretched so far south is unclear. Others say that the St Columba commemorated here was in fact St Columba the Virgin, who was either French or Irish. According to legend, she scorned the advances of an unbeliever who wanted her to marry his son. When she resisted, he killed her at Ruthvoes, a couple of miles to the south of the town. So sure were the towns officials of having Cornwalls cathedral sited here, that in the 1850s a moated, medieval tower house was rebuilt as a possible bishops palace. Now
54

called the Old Rectory, it retains much of its grandeur. Another interesting building here is the Red Lion Inn, which is renowned for its former landlord, James Polkingborne, a famous Cornish wrestler who is depicted in action on a plaque on one of the inns external walls. Hurling the Silver ball, is a rowdy medieval game still played today, a cross between hurling and football, it is played twice a year, on Shrove Tuesday then on the Saturday eleven days later. It involves two teams of several hundred people - the townsmen and the countrymen - who endeavour to carry a ball made of apple wood and encased in sterling silver through goals set two 2 miles apart. Once a common pastime throughout the county, this ancient game is now only played here and in St Ives. Such is the passion for the St Columb Major event that windows of houses and shops in the locality are boarded up for the occasion. A couple of miles southeast of the town, on Castle Downs, lie the remains of a massive Iron Age hill fort. Called Castle-an-Dinas, this was the major fort of the Dumnonia tribe who were in the area in around the 2nd century BC and, from here, they ruled the whole of Devon and Cornwall. The earthwork is generally thought to be one of the most significant hillforts in the British Isles. The three earthwork ramparts enclose an area of over six 6 acres and those climbing to the gorsecovered remains, some 700 feet above sea level, will be rewarded with panoramic views over the leafy Vale of Lanherne, and over Goss Moor to the clay deposits to the south. At Winnards Perch, on the A39 between St Columb Major and Wadebridge, the Cornish Birds of Prey Centre is situated in 15 acres of beautiful countryside with glorious views. Visitors can watch the swooping falcons, the soaring buzzards, the comical vulture, the owls, the hawks and the redtails; and as well as the birds the site is home to ponies, deer, zebu, emus, waterfowl and pheasants. Within the centre, Meadowside Fisheries offers prime coarse fishing for carp, roach, tench, bream, perch and rudd. For those looking for a more active family day out, at the St Columb Major roundabout follow the brown
Castle-an-Dinas
tourist signs for Springfields Fun Park and Pony Centre, home to different breeds of pony, including Dartmoor, Shetland and DalesWelsh. Children can pet, feed and ride the ponies as well as mmeetingeet various other animals such as lambs, calves, goats, chickens and rabbits. Other attractions in the fun park include a large boating lake, gokarts, trampolines, aerial gliders and an outdoor indoor activity play area.
INDIAN QUEENS
6 miles E of Newquay off the A30
Close to an area dominated by china clay quarries, this chiefly Victorian village is home to Screech Owl Sanctuary, which lies just to the northeast. Visitors can see and touch the owls under staff supervision, and there is a guided tour of the centre. The sanctuary began as a captive collection of owls and expanded when an elderly breeder passed on his collection of birds prior to retirement. Part of this menagerie consisted of a disabled buzzard, and a barn owl, which that had lost half a wing in a road accident. Before long the Screech Owl Sanctuary began providing care and rehabilitation for wild sick and
55

injured owls. Ensuring their safe release back to the wild, when fully recovered, is the main function of the sanctuary. The sanctuary has now diversified somewhat, with the introduction of emus, Shetland ponies and meerkats, and new for 2011, Alpacas.
even in recent years: some of The Omen The Final Conflict was filmed here. Specifically, the scene in which a group of priests ambush someone whom they believe to be Antichrist Damien Thorne.
KESTLE MILL
2 miles SE of Newquay on the A3058
ROCHE
10 miles E of Newquay on the B3274
What chiefly brings people to this unassuming place lies not in Roche but to the southwest on the granite outcrop of Roche Rock. Unlike Cornwalls many megaliths, this blob-like structure is an entirely natural phenomenon. The ruined chapel on the summit of the Rocks centre crag was dedicated to St Michael in 1409, ; a feat of medieval engineering, the two-storey Hermitage has, remarkably, stood the test of time. The rock is connected to the Arthurian legend of Tristan and Iseult (Isolde). Tristan was King Marks nephew who accidentally shared a love potion with King Marks intended queen Iseult, resulting in Tristan and Iseult falling hopelessly in love. It was here, in Ogrins Chapel, that the lovers found refuge from King Mark of Cornwall. Roche Rock is also associated with the legendary Cornish scoundrel, Jan Tregeagle (see also Bolventor), who attempted to seek sanctuary in the chapel while being pursued across the moors by a pack of headless hounds. The visual peculiarities of Roche Rock have continued to exert a hellish fascination,
Roche Rock and Chapel
Found hidden in the lanes two 2 miles west of Kestle Mill, is the exceptionally attractive small Elizabethan manor house, Trerice. Built by Sir John Arundell in 1571, and now in the care of the National Trust, this charming house with a Dutch-style gabled faade retains many of its fine original features, and highlights include fine oak and walnut furniture, collections of clocks and drinking glasses, English and Oriental porcelain, portraits by the celebrated Cornish painter John Opie and a magnificent window in the great hall, made up of 576 small panes of 16th century glass. The grounds in which the house stands are equally charming and, as well as the unusual summer flowering garden, there is an orchard planted with old and, in many cases, forgotten fruit trees. The Parade Ground was used as a training ground by the Home Guard in the 1940s, and here you can play the Cornish game of kayles, an early form of skittles. All parts of the garden may be used for picnicking. The hayloft is also worth a once-over for its engagingly eccentric Lawnmower Museum, which traces the history of the lawnmower and contains more than 100 machines, the earliest dating from 1873. Tearooms, a gift shop and plant sales can also be found in the houses various outbuildings. Trerice was the Trenwith of Winston Grahams Poldark novels. To the southeast of Kestle Mill is another place well worth visiting that is rather different from Trerice Dairyland Farm World. This is a real working dairy farm and, amongst the other attractions here, visitors can see the cows being milked to music
56

East Wheal Rose, St Newlyn East
line in 1974 and the centrepiece is a 15" inch gauge steam railway that runs through beautiful countryside from Benny Halt, but there are also two even smaller railways. Cornwalls richest lead producing mine, East Wheal Rose, was the scene, in July 1846, of Cornwalls worst mining disaster when 39 miners were drowned in a flash flood caused by an unexpected thunderstorm. The villages cockpit (where cockfighting had been held for centuries) was restored as a memorial to the dead and, although the mine reopened a year after the accident, it closed for good in 1885.
HOLYWELL
3 miles SW of Newquay off the A3075
ST NEWLYN EAST
3 miles S of Newquay off the A3075
St Newlyn East parish was named after St Newlina and the word East added to distinguish the village from Newlyn near Penzance. The village was a flourishing mining area in the 19th century, the imposing old engine house and chimney stack of East Wheal Rose mine can still be seen to the east and can be reached by taking a short journey on the Lappa Valley Steam Railway, one of the most popular attractions in the whole county. Lappa Valley Steam Railway is a narrow gauge railway that originally opened in 1849 as a mineral line from Newquay to East Wheal Rose and later became part of the Great Western Railways Newquay to Chacewater branch line, which was eventually closed in 1963. Eric Booth, the founder of Lappa Valley, reopened part of the
This pretty hamlet, with its attractive beach and towering sand dunes, was obviously named after a holy well but the exact location of that well has never been definitively agreed. Some say that the well is sited near the 18th tee on Holywell Bay Golf Club, others argue that the well nestles in a cave at the right hand side of the beach, where the rocks have been eroded to give the appearance of a set of steps reaching up to a font. The cave is only reachable at low tide - take a torch if you plan a visit, and watch out for the slippery rocks! Its waters were supposed to cure skin diseases in children. Holywell Bay is sheltered, at either end, by two headlands, Kelsey Head and Penhale Point and provides superb swimming and surfing; RNLI lifeguards patrol the beach from May to September, which have helped to make this a popular summer seaside resort. A popular, long but pretty walk is to the left of the beach, past Penhale Army Camp to Perranporth, five miles there and five 5 miles back. An additional attraction here, apart
34 LAPPA VALLEY STEAM RAILWAY

St Newlyn East A great day out for all the family centred around the 13 guage railway. See entry on page 143
35 THE SMUGGLERS DEN

Cubert, nr Newquay This olde worlde thatched pub offers contemporary British cuisine and uninterrupted rural views. See entry on page 144
57

from the dolphins that can sometimes be seen out in the bay, is the Holywell Bay Fun Park that offers a whole range of activities for young and old. Ideal for families, among the amusements there is pitch and putt golf, various rides and a maze among the amusements and, new in 2010, an indoor arena for what can only be described as a giant Scaletrix track.
CRANTOCK
2 miles SW of Newquay off the A392
To the south of Newquay lies the beautiful estuary of the River Gannel. Although the river is modest in stature, over the millennia it has created a wonderful inland sandy haven for countless seabirds and a place of tranquility in which to escape the excitements of Newquay. The river also acts as the natural boundary between the parishes of Newquay and Crantock - and herein lies one of the secret gems of the North Cornwall coast. In days gone by, hidden from the sea by its sand dunes, the little community of Crantock snuggled around its church and had, from the 12th century until it closed in 1545, a famous college which was a great seat of learning. But the villages history goes back even further than that, and had its origins in the arrival of one of the 6th century Celtic saints, Carantoc. At one time it was known as Langurroc The Dwelling of Monks for it was a major centre of religious activity before the Norman Conquest. After the Conquest it was given to a Norman nobleman, who in turn gave it to Montacute Priory in Dorest. Not all signs of Crantocks Celtic past are lost, for in the centre of the village is the Round Garden, now owned by the National Trust, but which is almost certainly the site
of one of the seven Celtic chapels that would have surrounded the original church. The Round Garden is in fact an orchard and one can sit there and enjoy the peace of this ancient place. St Carantoc Parish Church, which was once collegiate, contains a particularly beautiful rood screen. In 1412 the tower of the Norman church collapsed, destroying the nave. Not surprisingly, a few centuries ago, Crantock attracted smugglers and the villages old thatched inn, The Old Albion, was a well-known hideaway. Crantocks long history has made it a place of visual delight and rural charm, but and it has much to offer todays visitor - n. Not least the warm welcome you will receive - but, there are also art and craft shops, a tea garden, restaurants, pubs, one of the most beautiful beaches on the north Cornish coast (although swimming is not advised) and miles and miles of wonderful paths along which you may walk in almost any direction.
ST AGNES
St Agnes is both a mining village retaining links with its industrial past and a popular coastal resort. Immaculate flower-filled gardens front the straggling streets of greyslate and granite cottages in Peterville, the lower part of the village, and in Churchtown, the upper, more central part. The two ends are connected by the steep Town Hill, famous for the picturesque terrace of cottages known as Stippy-Stappy, a Cornish colloquialism for going uphill. Before heading for the beaches, there are a couple of sights attractions in and around town that are worth exploring, starting with the unprepossessing St Agnes Parish Church in
36 THE BOWGIE INN

West Pentire, nr Crantock In a lofty position overlooking the beach at West Pentire, this bar and restaurant offers delicious homemade food and panoramic sea views. See entry on page 145
37 ST AGNES HOTEL
St Agnes Friendly hotel situated in the heart of the village, offering fine food, affordable accommodation and warm welcome. See entry on page 146
58

Wheal Coates Mine, St Agnes
Churchtown, dedicated to a 13-year-old Roman girl martyred in AD304. Though dating from 1849 in its present carnation, it merits a glance for its much older relics, including a quirky Elizabethan alms box supported by the figure of a hungry man, his hands pressed against his empty stomach. Presingoll Barns, is a great all-weather tourist attraction for the whole family. Its perfect for finding all your Cornish gifts for family and friends, or great for just browsing the individual barns for pottery, Cornish fudge, Cornish crafts, produce and much more. St Agnes is a centre for arts and crafts, and has a wealth of galleries and craft shops displaying work by local artists. You can take the Arts and Craft Trail to discover the variety of local products available. On the outskirts of the village south of Churchtown, St Agnes Museum, run by volunteers, aims to promote the heritage of the village and the series of displays here not only cover the mining and seafaring history of St Agnes but also the natural history of the surrounding area. An interesting item is the figurehead of the Lady Agnes, a two-masted schooner of 91 tons that was launched at Trevaunance Cove in 1877. Four schooners were built on the beach between 1873 and 1877, all for harbour owner Martin Hitchins, and it was John Hitchins, a descendant of Martin, who unveiled the figurehead in March 2002. The figurehead had been bought by an American at a Christies auction in 1989 and taken across the Atlantic; it was tracked
down and after some serious fundraising was returned, restored and put on display next to the Museums mining displays - particularly apt, as the schooners main job was shipping copper ore to Wales for smelting, returning with coal for the mines. Among the many other interesting items in the Museum is a self-portrait of the locally born Georgian society painter, John Opie and an 80year-old leatherback turtle washed up on Porthtowan beach in 1988. Once known as the source of the finest tin in Cornwall, the community still retains reminders of those days, including the picturesque group of clifftop buildings that were once part of one of the countys best known mines - Wheal Coates. The word wheal (originally whel) is the Cornish for work, though it has gradually come to mean a working mine working in particular. Now in the hands of the National Trust, the mine was in operation for 30 years between 1860 and 1890 and the derelict Engine House is an exceptionally atmospheric local landmark. It stands close to a high cliff edge, and the workings used to go out under the sea. Many other abandoned pump houses and mine shafts still litter the area (walkers should always keep to the footpaths) and from the remains of Wheal Kitty there are views across the landscape to other disused workings. If youre intrigued by Cornwalls tin industry, you can find out everything you need to know at Blue Hills Tin Streams, at Trevallas Valley, a mile or so northeast of St Agnes. Visitors to Blue Hills can take a tour around the tin streaming works and are talked through the process of vanning, panning and gigging stages of the process of tin extraction. Those skills have been revived at Blue Hills, where the refined tin is cast into ingots that are melted down to produce a unique range of jewellery and gifts that can be purchased in the workshop. The real pull around St Agnes, however, is the cliffy coast and the best place to take it
59

all in and one of Cornwalls most famous vantage points is from St Agnes Beacon, 630 feet high, where views extend inland to Bodmin Moor and even across the peninsula to St Michaels Mount. It was from this summit that, in the 16th century, a fire was lit to warn of the coming of the Spanish Armada though, more recently, in 1977, another fire was lit as part of the Queens Silver Jubilee celebrations. A mile or so northwest of the beacon, the knuckle of land that is St Agnes Head is edged by cliffs which support the areas largest colony of breeding kittiwakes, fulmars and guillemots, while grey seals are a common sight offshore. There are good beaches on either side: a couple of miles north, Trevaunance Cove, the site of several failed attempts to create a harbour for the town, has a fine sandy beach much favoured by surfers and boasts excellent water quality, while south of St Agnes Head, Chapel Porth is a wide expanse of white sand at low tide, rock and stony at other times. Both swimmers and surfers should be aware of the strong currents and undertows here. A cave behind the beach is linked with the legendary giant called Bolster, who fell in love with Agnes, a local young maiden. As proof of his devotion to her, Agnes asked the giant to fill a hole above the cliffs at Chapel Porth with his blood - a task he willingly undertook as the hole seemed tiny. However, unknown to Bolster, the hole was bottomless and opened into a cave which in turn opened into the sea; as his blood drained away, he became so weak that he eventually died. The story is enacted at Chapel Porth in early May, using giant puppets in a colourful pageant and procession. Bolster also presides over the St Agnes Carnival in August and the Christmas
Lights and Lantern Procession in December. The local beaches are all patrolled throughout the summerMay until September by professional lifeguards. St Agnes and Porthtowan (see below) also have popular Surf Life Saving Clubs, with courses run throughout the year by qualified instructors.
AROUND ST AGNES
PORTHTOWAN
4 miles S of St Agnes off the B3300
Evidence of copper mining is never far away in this part of Cornwall and, in the village of Porthtowan, a 19th century mining engine house has been converted into a private residence. Above the village are the remains of Wheal Towan, once one of the most prosperous copper mines in Cornwall. It is said that its owner, Ralph Allen Daniell of Trelissick, earned a guinea an minute from it in the 18th century. These days Porthtowan is probably best known as a popular holiday destination owing largely to its extensive sand beach and this is indeed where the name is derived, Porth beach and towan dunes. As one of the more exposed beaches, Porthtowan is a great surfing beach producing powerful hollow waves probably not the best spot for beginners when there is a swell running. At the foot of the East Cliff is a natural rock pool where swimming is allowed. Inland, at Tywarnhale, more evidence can be seen in the remains of various copper mine buildings.
PERRANPORTH
3 miles NE of St Agnes on the B3285
38 LITTLE TREVELLAS FARM

Trevellas Idyllic three star bed and breakfast nestled within a working farm, with homemade breakfasts and opportunities to meet some of the animals. See entry on page 147
Made famous by the BBCs exciting Seaside Rescue series, Perranporth, isnt just a place for drama. Its also a classic bucket and sand beach, and rich with cultural value. The Millennium Sundial, stands standing by the beach, it tells Cornish time, which is twenty minutes ahead of GMT. Its no exaggeration to say that the history and development of Perranporth have been quite unusually
60

St Pirans Cross, Perranporth
dominated by sand. Buried beneath the extensive sand dunes here is The Oratory of St Piran, the patron saint of tin mining, and, arguably, of Cornwall as a whole. The oratory became overwhelmed by sand sometime before 1500, f. Following its excavation in the last century, it had to be reburied in 1981 in order to better preserve it for posterity. Legend has it that when the remains were uncovered, three headless skeletons were also discovered. Reburied today, a simple plaque marks the site of the burial place of the saint who is said to have travelled from Ireland to Cornwall on a millstone. The saints landing place is marked by a tall granite cross, St Pirans Cross, which is one of only a very few three-holed Celtic crosses in the county. The name of the parish in which Perranporth is located is called Perranzabuloe, which translates into English as Perran-in-the-sands, and gives its name to the local museum, the Perranzabuloe Folk Museum, located in the towns Ponsmere Road. It has local collections on archaeology, science and social history. For most people, however, Perranporth will forever be linked with Winston Graham, the author of the Poldark novels. Born in Manchester, Graham settled in Perranporth in the 1930s and, while staying here, wrote the first volumes in the series, which were published between 1945 and 1953. Local beauty spots, towns, villages and various old mine workings all appear either as themselves or in disguise in the
books and, in some cases, his characters take their names from local villages. In mid-October Perranporth hosts the Lowender Peran Celtic Festival, which takes place in the Ponsmere Hotel. The festival celebrates traditional and contemporary music, stories and songs in the Cornish language, and Cornwalls links with other Celtic cultures in Ireland, Scotland, Wales, the Isle of Man and Brittany are emphasized with groups and performers arriving from all of those regions.
PENHALE CAMP
6 miles NE of St Agnes off the A3075
Penhale Camp is the site of a 940-acre military training base, so great care should be taken when visiting the area, and restriction notices should be observed. According to local legend, the old town of Langarroc, a supposedly beautiful place with seven fine churches, lies buried beneath the dunes of Penhale Sands. The town gained its wealth from mining and it also proved to be the cause of the towns undoing, as, during a great storm that lasted three days, Langarroc and its inhabitants were engulfed - some said as retribution for their ungodly ways. On stormy nights it is said that ghostly cries for help can still be heard above the sound of the wind and the waves. Before the planting of marram grass, sandstorms did much damage in this part of Cornwall, so the legend may be based on a real sandstorm which obliterated a late Iron Age settlement. Ancient human skeletons have been found in the area, adding substance that there was a settlement here in the distant past.
ROSE
4 miles NE of St Agnes off the B3285
Close to this tiny village lies St Pirans Round, an impressive Iron Age enclosure that was used for miracle plays performed in the
61
St Pirans Round, nr Rose
Cornish language in the Middle Ages, and later for Cornish games such as wrestling. Possibly the oldest theatre site in Europe, it is still used from time to time.
The town of St Allen derives its name from this Celtic saint who is possibly the same who became bishop of Quimper in Brittany. A little way north of St Allen, a mile west of the village of Zelah, lies Chyverton Garden, in the grounds of a grand Georgian house built for a wealthy mine owner. The landscaping was added by John Thomas over a 55 year period. He created a small lake by damming a stream, built a bridge and planted 94 acres of woodland. The place is renowned for its rhododendrons and magnolias. Chyverton is open all year by appointment only.
PENHALLOW
3 miles E of St Agnes on the A3075
ST ALLEN
6 miles E of St Agnes off the A30
There are a number of creatures particular to Cornish folklore, although their cousins can be found elsewhere in Britain under a different name and guise. One of these strains is the Piskie also known as a Pixie in other West Country counties. One legend surrounding these mischievous creatures tells of a boy, living in St Allen, who was out picking wild woodland flowers near his home. When he failed to return home for supper, his mother and other villagers began a frantic search. After three days, the boy was found, sleeping peacefully in exactly the same spot where he was last seen; he had no idea what had happened to him in the intervening days. However, what he could remember was that while picking the flowers he had heard a bird singing so beautifully that he had followed the sound of the bird deep into the woods. As day turned into night and the stars came out, the boy had realised that the stars were, in fact, piskies and they had led him to a fantastic cave with crystal pillars studded with jewels where he had been fed on the purest honey. When he awoke from this incredible adventure he found himself back in the woodland close to his home.
Cornwall may not immediately be recognised as a cider-making area but it has long practiced the art. Just south of Penhallow lies the Cornish Cyder Farm, which produces strong traditional scrumpys, sparkling ciders, country wines, jams, preserves and brandy. There are gGuided tours taking take visitors through the press house, bottling house, jam kitchen, brandy distillery and the cellars, and after the tour there is an opportunity to sample the product. It is also possible to take a tractor ride through acres of beautiful fruit and apple orchards. Here, too, is the Cider Museum where the fascinating history of cider making is charted, through displays of old equipment and artefacts that, which include a horse-drawn mill and a coopers workshop. Unfortunately, the museum is only accessible to those people enjoying a guided tour due to its closeness to the distillery which is a Customs & Excise bonded warehouse.
TOWAN CROSS
2 miles S of St Agnes off the B3277
The countryside around this village was one of the richest tin and copper mining areas in the country and the minerals were extracted
62

here until the 1920s. To satisfy the thirst of the miners, there were once many inns here and in the surrounding area, andthe villages name comes from the horizontal stone cross that lies outside Towan Crosss 16th century inn, on which coffins were rested while the bearers called in for refreshment in the days of walking.
FOWEY
Far more than a town or even a resort, Fowey (pronounced Foy) is a river and estuary whose creeks, in Carews phrase, fold about the land with many embracing arms and provide astonishing variety to yachtsmen, fishermen and walkers. An attractive place, with steep, narrow streets and alleyways that lead down to one of the best natural harbours along the south coast, Fowey exhibits a pleasant mixture of architectural styles that range from Elizabethan to Edwardian. Seen rising above trees is the tower of St Fimbarrus Parish Church. St Finbarrus, or Finbar, was an Irish monk who passed through the town on his way to Rome. The church was built on the site of a 7th century chapel to St Goran. A Norman church took its place in about 1150, which was rebuilt in the early 14th century after a raid by pirates. In reprisal for the many raids made by the sailors known as the Fowey Gallants, the French, during their devastating raid on Fowey in 1456, partially destroyed this church once more, with restoration work starting soon after 1460 by the Earl of Warwick. The churchs font is a legacy of the deeds of the Gallants as it was made from panelling seized by them from a Spanish galleon in 1601. The church also
39 FOWEY HARBOUR COTTAGES

Fowey Fowey sees a variety of selfcatering properties suitable for families, with lovely surroundings. Email for a written guide on each of the beautiful properties available. See entry on page 147
marks the traditional end of the ancient Saints Way from Padstow, linking the north and south Cornish coasts. Behind St Fimbarrus stands Place House, an extravagance belonging to the local Treffry family. Built in 1260, the fortified manor house was the focus of a French attack in the mid 15th century. Although the attack was repelled, a large portion of the house had to be rebuilt due to fire damage. Today it remains a private residence and is best viewed from the sea. Below the church, the Ship Inn, sporting some fine Elizabethan panelling and plaster ceilings, was originally a town house, built by the influential Rashleigh family in the 15th century, and the local Roundhead HQ during the Civil War. The Town Hall, which is home to a small aquarium (summer only, times vary) and museum (open Eastermid-Oct MonFri), dates back to 1793 and replaced the 14th century Guild Chapel. Some of the chapels features remain intact such as the barred windows of the medieval jail. An old water tap can be found to the rear of the building - its installation in 1787 was met with much enthusiasm by locals. The museum is an excellent place to discover Foweys colourful history, from the days of piracy and smuggling to the rise of the towns harbour and the china clay industry. Fowey and the area around the town have many literary connections, and, next to St Fimbarrus is the Literary Centre, where the rich literary heritage includes features on Daphne du Maurier (1907-1989), who lived at Bodinnick; Kenneth Grahame (1855-1932, and who was married in the parish church in 1899); Leo Walmsley (1892-1966); and Sir Arthur Quiller Couch (1863-1944), who lived for over 50 years at The Haven, on the Esplanade just above the Polruan ferry. Sir Arthur, who wrote as Q, was a Cambridge professor, editor of the Oxford Book of English Verse and author of several books, which help popularize the place he called Troy Town. He died after being hit by a car, leaving his last novel Castle Dor incomplete in 1962 this was finished by Daphne du Maurier who was a close friend of his daughter Foy. He is buried in St Fimbarrus
63
churchyard. The Daphne du Maurier Festival has been a highlight of the cultural year in Cornwall since 1997. Every year, Fowey celebrates close to Du Mauriers birthday (May 13) with a festival of music, dance, drama, comedy, exhibitions and fairs, films, garden visits, poetry readings, storytelling, walks and talks. The Town Quay is the departure point for river and coastal cruises, which between Fowey Town Quay May and September provide a great way to explore the water systems hereabouts. The Fowey to Mevagissey fortifications along the south coast, this Ferry starts running from late April and is small fort was built by Henry VIII to protect possibly the best way to get to the Lost the harbour and, now in the hands of English Gardens of Heligan (see also Pentewan). Heritage, it enjoys fine views over the river Another pleasant way to view the river is by estuary and the surrounding coastline. canoe or kayak. Experienced kayakers should To the west of Fowey lies the 7-feet tall get in touch with Fowey Kayak Hire Tristan Stone, which, although not thought (www.foweykyakhire.co.uk). For to be in its original location, is a 6th century monument bearing a Latin inscription which inexperienced canoeists and beginners it is translates as: Drustanus lies here, son of possible to join escorted canoe trips with Conomorus. Drustanus is an alternative Fowey River Expeditions version of Tristan and it is believed that this (www.foweyriverexpeditions.co.uk). Fowey is the same Tristan who was a knight of King Royal Regatta is held every August and is one Arthur. The son of King Mark, Tristan fell in of Britains premier sailing events, with love with Iseult (often referred to as Isolde), events occurring daily on the Town Quay. Not his fathers young bride, after they had both all the action takes place on the water; drunk the love potion prepared for Marks theres plenty to keep landlubbers wedding night. entertained, from childrens entertainment to the Red Arrows. The Regatta has a long & proud history, having attracted visitors including Queen Victoria, Prince Albert & Queen Elizabeth II. There are also alluring hikes to be made BODINNICK inland from Fowey. You dont have to take on mile E of Fowey off the A3082 the entire 28 miles of the Saints Way to get the flavour of this trail, one of the most A unique and pleasant way to enter or leave interesting walks in this area is the Hall Fowey, is to take the Bodinnick Car Ferry Walk, a scenic 4-mile hike that starts east of and cross the river. Bodinnick is on the east the town in Bodinnick and ends in Polruan, if side of the river, and, located near the ferry you are to enjoy it to the full, you should set slipway stands the house in which Daphne du aside a day. Maurier lived before her marriage. She To the south of Fowey lies Readymoney actually wrote her first novel here, The Cove, whose expanse of sand acts as the Loving Spirit, which was based on the Slade towns beach, and further along the coast family of nearby Polruan. On the right side of lies St Catherines Castle. Part of a chain of
AROUND FOWEY
64
POLPERRO
5 miles E of Fowey off the A387
Bodinnick Ferry
the building, below du Mauriers old room, can be seen a rescued figurehead from a schooner, Jane Slade. Further upstream is Pont Pill, meaning Bridge Creek. It provided du Maurier with inspiration for her first novel and she travelled through the nearby waters on her wedding day in 1932. Another writer, Leo Walmsey, lived further along the river in a hut and here he wrote his romantic story, Love in the Sun. Sir Arthur Quiller Couch is remembered at Bodinnick by a monolithic memorial which stands at Penleath Point on the coast facing Fowey. The 4-mile Hall Walk takes you from Bodinnick, past Pont Creek and on to Polruan. The original walk was designed as the promenade for Hall Manor, which was built just above Bodinnick for an influential Cornish family in the 13th century.
LANTEGLOS-BY-FOWEY
2 miles NE of Fowey off the A3082
Here can be found a lonely church whose isolated position can be attributed to it being built to serve Polruan as well as several other scattered hamlets in this area. Though some remnants of the original Norman building exist, the St Wyllows Parish Church is chiefly 14th century and was fortunate enough not to be over zealously restored in the 19th century. Its tower is over 70 feet high. St Wyllow was a Christian hermit who lived in the area and died a martyr well before St Augustine landed in Kent in the 6th century.
This old fishing community is many peoples ideal of the typical Cornish fishing village. Packed tightly into a steep valley on either side of the River Pol, the quaint colourwashed fishermens cottages and twisting streets offer surprises at every turn: the Saxon and Roman bridges, the famous House on the Props (a 16th century inn supported by wooden props, now a bed-andbreakfast, tearoom and restaurant), the fish quay, and Couchs House, the 16th century house where Dr Jonathan Couch, the naturalist and grandfather of author Sir Arthur Quiller Couch, lived. All routes in Polperro seem to lead down to its beautiful Harbour, make no mistake, this peaceful fishing cove, was once a thriving centre for the areas smuggling. Generations of Polperro seafarers have brought contraband goods ashore, largely due to the presence of Zephaniah Job who acted as the smugglers banker for many years. Wagonloads of contraband left here, some heading across Bodmin Moor en route to London. To combat what was such a widespread problem, HM Customs and Excise established the first preventive station in Cornwall at Polperro in the 1800s. If you prefer a focused tour to a mere ramble through the villages tidy lanes, join one of the guided walks that start from the Village Hall. Otherwise, you can get some good background on the village at the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing. A whole range of artefacts and memorabilia from around the 18th century are used to illustrate the myths, legends and larger-than-life characters that dodged the government taxes on luxury goods. Also on display is a model of HMS Recruit, onto which local lad Robert Jeffrey was pressganged in 1807. He was subsequently cast ashore on a desert island in the West Indies for drinking the captains beer. He was
65
Polperro Inner Harbour
eventually rescued and brought back to London in 1810 to a heros welcome. Questions were asked in Parliament about the incident, and the Recruits captain was dismissed from the service. Just west of Polperro harbour lies Chapel Hill, from which there are superb panoramic views both inland and out to sea. At the bottom of the hill lies a cavern that is known as Willy Willcocks Hole. Willy was a fisherman who, walking here one day, decided to explore the cave. Unfortunately he lost his way in the maze of underground tunnels and was never seen again and, so the story goes, his lost soul can still be heard crying out for help. A 2-mile clifftop walk eastwards from Polperro leads to Talland Bay, a sheltered shingle cove that is overlooked by the 13th century St Tallan Parish Church. The Polperro Festival takes place for one week annually in June. Highlights include street theatre, live music, parades, arts and crafts, Morris Dancers and a treasure hunt.
beach of Lansallos Cove. The name Lansallos in Cornish means the church of unknown name, as no one could originally agree on who St Ildierna was. Some records say he was a bishop of the Celtic Church, while others claim that he was a she, and a virgin. Inside the church there are a great number of features of historic and architectural interest, not least the magnificent carved oaken pews which were made between 1490 and 1520. The parish produced a guide, which is available in the church.
POLRUAN
1 mile S of Fowey off the A3082
LANSALLOS
3 miles E of Fowey off the A387
From the 14th century St Ildiernas Parish Church, in the centre of this small village, there is a path which follows a tree-lined stream down to the coast and sheltered Lantivet Bay. Here also lies the small shingle
Polruan is bounded by water on three sides Penpoll Creek to the north, the Fowey River to the west and the sea to the south. This remoteness gives the area its unspoilt charm with its narrow streets and narrower alleyways where flights of slate steps twist between the houses. Polruan is imbued with a lingering, romantic atmosphere, the whole area around these waters is steeped in history and ancient legend. On the top of Polruan Hill are the ruins of St Saviours Chapel, dating originally from the 8th century, though it was considerably enlarged in 1488. It was from hre that people kept a look out for French vessels intent on Plundering Fowey during the Hundred Years War. To the southwest of St Saviours Point is Punches Cross, said to have association with Pontius Pilate. It is also claimed Joseph of Arimathaea passed by the spot with the young Jesus when he brought him to Britain. Beside the harbour, which is still busy with pleasure craft and china clay vessels, lies the late 15th century Polruan Blockhouse. One of a pair of artillery buildings that was constructed to control the entrance to Fowey, it was from here that, during the Hundred Years War, heavy linked
66

chains were stretched between the two to prevent a sea invasion by the French. The grooves made by the chains can still be seen carved into the rock.
GRIBBIN HEAD
2 miles SW of Fowey off the A3082
The dramatic green headland of Gribbin Head on the Polperro Heritage Coast makes a rewarding walk from Fowey, since it offers some superb sea views. The beacon on Gribbin Head, Gribbin Head Daymark Daymark Tower, was built in 1832 to help seafarers find the approaches to Fowey harbour. This craggy headland is best so, and reached Padstow, where he began a known for being close to the home of Daphne walk across Cornwall on what is now the du Maurier, who lived at Menabilly House, Saints Way. He eventually reached Golant, for 24 years. A 17th century mansion and converted the people there to overlooking the sea, once belonging to the Christianity after seeing them worshipping an Rashleigh family, du Maurier used the house idol. He set up a small monastery before as a model for Manderley in one of her most continuing on his way to Brittany, where he popular novels Rebecca, Last night I dreamt founded the Bishopric of Dol. It is said that I went to Manderley again is among the best he was particularly good at curing lepers. known opening lines in the language. The Close to the village can also be found the house is not open to the public, but you can Castle Dore Earthworks, the remains of an see where Rebecca met her watery end at Iron Age fort. Castle Dore was the place Polridmouth Cove. where 6,000 Roundheads surrendered to King
GOLANT
2 miles N of Fowey off the B3269
Golant is a delightful waterside village devoted to boats, fishing and peace and quiet. Some of the famous Troy boats are built here. It has two historical connections that make it unique, that of The Life of St Sampson and the story of Tristan and Iseult. St Sampson built his monastic cell in the 6th century. On the site of the cell stands St Sampsons Parish Church, and, by the porch, another of Cornwalls many holy wells. Of all the Cornish saints, St Sampson is perhaps the one we know most about, thanks to a biography written about him in the early 7th century. He was the son of a Welsh king who eventually became abbot of Caldey Island off the Pembokeshire coast. One day, near Easter, he saw an angel who told him to leave Wales and travel across the sea. He did
Charles (in 1644. It is also where, it is said, King Mark of Cornwalls palace stood, and yet another of the places where the story of Tristan and Iseult was played out. It is recorded that Iseult attended the church and gave her wedding dress to be made into a priests chasuble, a sleeveless cloak worn over the alb by priests during the saying of Mass.
LOSTWITHIEL
The name Lostwithiel comes from two old Cornish words meaning the place at the tail end of the woodland, which perfectly describes its location - nestling in the valley of the River Fowey and surrounded by wooded hills. The mediaeval church, bridge and part of the Great Hall (now known as the Duchy Palace) still stand as testimony to its original splendour. The Normans, who named
67

it the Port of Fawi, founded the town, and for centuries it was the second busiest port on the south coast of England. Tin and other raw materials were brought here for assaying and onward transportation until the upstream mining activity caused the quay to silt up and force the port further down river. Lostwithiel was a major crossing place on the River Fowey and the original medieval timber bridge was replaced and then gradually altered until Tudor times when the bridge seen today was completed. Alongside the banks of the River Fowey and downstream from the bridge lies the tranquil Coulson Park. Opened in 1907, the park was named after the American millionaire Nathaniel Coulson, who grew up in the town and who put up the money for the parks construction. Throughout Lostwithiel there are reminders, in the buildings, of the former importance of this pleasant and picturesque place. The remains of the 13th century Great Hall, which served as the treasury and stannary offices, can still be seen, and in Fore Street there is a fine example of an early 18th century arcaded Guildhall. Built in 1740 by Richard, Lord Edgcumbe, the ground floor was originally an open Corn Market with the town lock-up behind and the guildhall on the first floor. John Betjeman is reputed to
have said There is history in every stone in Lostwithiel. Today, the building is home to the Lostwithiel Museum, which charts eight centuries of local history from the time the town claimed to be Cornwalls capital to the present day. The areas military history is most vividly captured in the imposing ruins of Restormel Castle, crowning a hill 1 mile upriver from Lostwithiel (see also Polscoe). The striking St Bartholomew Parish Church has a distinctive octagonal spire and its Breton-style design is a reminder of the close links between the Celts of Cornwall and those of northern France. Dedicated to the patron saint of the sick and of tanners (tanning was another industry of medieval Lostwithiel), the church, like other parts of the town, still bears some scars from the Civil War when the area became a battleground between the opposing forces. Braddock Down, to the east, was the site of a Royalist victory in 1643. During that war, Cornwall was strongly Royalist, and in 1644 the Parliamentarians tried to take the town once more, this time succeeding. A curious tale is told of how the Parliamentarian troops led a horse into St Bartholomews Church and baptised it Charles, using water from the churchs font. By September of the same year they had been forced to abandon the town to the Royalists.
40 RESTORMEL CASTLE
nr Lostwithiel A former stronghold of the Earls of Cornwall, these beautiful ruins occupy a peaceful hilltop setting. See entry on page 148
42 ROOMS AT POLGASSICK
Polgassick, nr Lostwithiel Friendly owner offers accommodation in the form of two comfortable bedrooms at her home in Polgassick found just a mile outside of Lostwithiel. See entry on page 148
41 BELLAMAMA DELI
Lostwithiel Located in the picturesque town of Lostwithiel, is the much acclaimed Bellamama delicatessan, a well stocked deli offering a vast array of local and continental produce. See entry on page 148
43 THE PARADE
Lostwithiel A combination of boutique clothing collections alongside wonderful contemporary art. See entry on page 149
68

Across the river from the town lies the Boconnoc Estate, the home of the Pitt family who gave Britain two great Prime Ministers. Boconnoc can trace its history back to the Normans and played a significant role in the Civil War as recounted in the du Maurier novel The Kings General. Nowadays, Boconnoc House and its surrounding estate is one of the most beautiful locations in hidden Cornwall. The house and park have been used for numerous film locations including the BBC Poldark series and scenes from the 1993 film of The Three Musketeers. It is also used for weddings and events.
LERRYN
2 miles S of Lostwithiel on a minor road
AROUND LOSTWITHIEL
POLSCOE
On a minor road 1 mile N of Lostwithiel
Lostwithiels strategic position, as a riverside port and important crossing point, led to the building of Restormel Castle. The magnificent Norman keep of local slate shale rock was built in the early 12th century by Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, and with walls that are 8 feet thick in places and a deep moat surrounding the whole fortress, this was certainly a stronghold worthy of the powerful Earls. Twice visited by the Black Prince, it finally saw action during the Civil War in 1644. By that time the castle was already in a sorry state, and Royalist forces under Sir Richard Grenville found it easy to prise it out of the hands of the Earls of Essexs Parlimaentarian army. The bailey disappeared many years ago, as did the park, where there were once 300 deer. Its a peaceful, panoramic spot, an easy walk from Lostwithiel and good for a picnic.
If Lostwithiel is the gateway to River Fowey Valley, then halfway down the estuary and hidden away up its own stunning creek, Lerryn is its gem. A quiet and peaceful village, Lerryn is a place that one almost wants to keep secret so that it does not become a popular destination. Pronounced Ler-in the name is Cornish for waters and it is the constant coming and going of the tidal river that gives the village its appeal and its ever changing scenery. At low tide there are stepping stones for pedestrians to cross to the other side. Nestling at the head of the creek and surrounded by dense woodland, its the perfect place for a walk to view the scenery and wildlife. There has been a crossing over the River Lerryn for more than 700 years; the current pretty stone arch bridge was built around 1573. It is said that the woods bordering the river here may well have been Kenneth Grahames inspiration for the Wild Wood in Wind in the Willows. It takes little imagination to conjure in ones mind Ratty and Mole scrurrying along the charming riverbank. The village lies within the boundaries of two parishes, St Veep and St Winnow, with St Veep Parish Church named for a Celtic saint. Much restored in the 19th century the church retains features that date back to the 14th century. On the south bank of the river you can walk to what is locally know as Tivoli Park, complete with fountains and follies. It was an ideal spot for the popular village regatta, last held in 1968. Lerryn provides some first-class walks, along the riverbank and through the woods.
44 COLLON BARTON
Lerryn On the banks of the River Fowey, this tranquil bed and breakfast offers glorious views and tours of its own working farm. See entry on page 149
ST AUSTELL
Six miles west of Fowey, and the nearest town to the Eden Project (a living theatre of plants), St Austell is a bustling market town, which for many centuries had been at the centre of the local tin and copper quarrying and mining industries. It was a Quaker, William Cookworthy, who transformed this
69
part of Cornwall. In 1746 he discovered huge reserves of high quality china clay in the area, at a time when Britain was having to import clay of a lesser quality from Europe. The discovery saw a dramatic change to St Austell and the surrounding landscape. Over the years, the waste material from the clay pits to the north and west of the town has been piled into great conical spoil heaps. These bare, bleached uplands have caused this Pine Lodge Gardens, St Austell area to be dubbed the Cornish Alps. More recently, steps have been taken to soften the countryside and the heaps and source of curative water is housed in a small disused pits have been landscaped to regranite shrine. It was originally built in the create Cornish heathland. They now have 15th century, but restored by Sir Charles gently undulating footpaths and nature trails. Graves Sawle in 1922. As well as curing a Although the china clay industry has number of ailments, good luck could be had dominated St Austell, for more than 250 by throwing a crooked pin into its waters. years, the town is also the home of another Also on the eastern side of St Austell, important local business - the St Austell Pinetum Park and Pine Lodge Gardens (open Brewery, the main provider of ales in the all year), has 30 acres of beautiful gardens featuring over 6,000 plants including many county and still owned by the same family Mediterranean species lovingly created by who established the brewery in 1851. The Shirley and Ray Clemo. history of the company and an insight into the brewing process can be found at the informative St Austell Brewery Visitor Centre, from where visitors are also taken on a guided tour of the brewery that includes a sample of the traditional caskCARTHEW conditioned ales. 2 miles N of St Austell on the B3274 The narrow streets of old St Austell create an atmosphere more befitting a Situated in the heart of the Cornish Alps, this market town than a busy mining and tiny village is surrounded by the spoils of the industrial community. The main china clay industry. Just to the south lies the thoroughfares all radiate from Holy Trinity Wheal Martyn China Clay Museum and Parish Church, an imposing building with a Country Park. Everything you ever wanted to tall 15th century tower that has, inside, a know about the china clay industry is curious Norman font that is carved with an assortment of grotesque human heads and mythical creatures. Elsewhere in the town 45 THE WHITE PYRAMID there are some other notable older buildings Trewoon including the 17th century Market House, a This recently refurbished Quaker Meeting House built in 1829, and the inn offers family and guest accommodation, a White Hart Hotel, a former town house. delicious British menu and Meanwhile, just to the east of the town a children friendly beer centre, among rhododendrons and beech garden for the summer. trees, is Menacuddle Well. Another of See entry on page 150 Cornwalls many holy wells, this particular
AROUND ST AUSTELL
70

revealed here. Its an extensive and absorbing exhibition, allowing a close-up view of how the pits were operated, with tours round the old clay workings, along with the original locomotives and wagons used in the pits. There is plenty to interest all the family with an adventure trail for children over 10 years. With 26 acres of park land, there is an abundance of wildlife, including deer, butterflies and variety of birds.
was constructed to carry horse drawn wagons and water across the Luxulyan valley. The viaduct was also important in the establishment of the newly created port of Par and mineral ores, quarried stone and fresh water were all transported along the line to the port. Treffry become known as the King of Mid Cornwall for his remarkable achievement.
ST BLAZEY
3 miles E of St Austell on the A390
BUGLE
4 miles N of St Austell on the A391
This relatively modern village was built in the 19th century to house miners and their families, who were brought into the area to work at the numerous china clay pits. In common with other mining communities throughout the country, Cornwalls mining villages also have a musical tradition and, in Cornwall, it was common for villages to have their own brass band. Each year, the musicians came together to show off their skills and compete. As a music festival was held here, Bugle has a particularly apt name, though in fact the name comes from a pub which still stands here.
LUXULYAN
4 miles NE of St Austell off the A390
Found lying between the moorland above and the steep, wooded Luxulyan Valley below, this old village of granite cottages has a very scenic location. Across this boulder strewn valley stands the engineering wonder Treffry Viaduct, which was built between 1839 and 1842 by Joseph Thomas Treffry as part of the railway line between Par and Newquay. Over 90 feet high and 670 feet long, the viaduct
46 THE KINGS ARMS

Bridges, nr Luxulyan The closest pub to the Eden Project offers delicious home cooked food and award winning real Cornish brews. See entry on page 150
To the west of the village, in the heart of the china clay area, lies a disused pit that has become the centre of the ambitious and world-famous Eden Project, named after The Garden of Eden. Eden is the inspiration of Tim Smit, the leading light behind the rescue of the Lost Gardens of Heligan (see also Pentewan). The aim of this on-going project, one of the most successful enterprises ever undertaken in Cornwall, is to promote the understanding and responsible management of the vital relationship between plants, people and resources. At the bottom of a giant crater over 160 feet deep are the largest biodomes or conservatories in the world where, in the space of a day, visitors can walk from steamy rainforests to the warmth of the Mediterranean. Throughout, the long and sometimes fragile relationship between man and plants is explored with a view to informing and educating visitors as well as looking ahead towards the future. In the midst of the complex, world, jazz and other genres of music are performed in a lawn-carpeted arena. These are either free day events or full-on concerts at night Fleet Foxes, Primeval Scream and Pendulum are among the big names lined up for the 2011 Eden Sessions. Consult the website for news of events. St Blazeys Parish Church, at the south end of the village, dates from around 1440, and is dedicated to St Blaise, a 4th century bishop from Armenia, who after being discovered in prayer and unwilling to recant his faith, was thrown into a lake to drown. Blaise stood on the surface and invited his persecutors to walk out and prove the power
71

of their gods; they drowned. When he returned to land, he was martyred by firstly being beaten, then his flesh was torn from his bones and only then was he finally beheaded.
PAR
3 miles E of St Austell on the A3082
The harbour was built here in the 1840s as part of the expansion of the china clay industry and, today, the terminals, erected in the 1960s, still handle the clay. The tall and slender chimneys of the clay processing plants can be seen from Par Sands, a large, sheltered sandy beach bordered by sand dunes ideal for exploring wildlife. This is the perfect setting for a lazy day. Contrastingly, to the east of the beach lies a low rocky cliff where, at low tide, Little Hell Cove can be reached.
TREGREHAN MILLS
2 miles E of St Austell off the A391
Lying just southeast of the village is the 19th century Tregrehan Gardens, where visitors can not only see many mature trees from places such as North America and Japan, but also rhododendrons and a range of Carlyon hybrid camellias. The glasshouses date from 1846, and the house and estate has been the home of the Carlyon family from 1565.
china clay industry and also for the importing of coal. Other ports with better facilities, such as Fowey and Plymouth, contributed to the decline of trade through Charlestowns harbour in the 19th century, and though some china clay is still exported from here, today this harbour and village remains a Georgian time capsule. Charlestown became familiar as the television location for Poldark and The Onedin Line. Close to the docks, and housed in a historic clay building, the Charlestown Shipwreck & Heritage Centre, is entered through tunnels once used to convey the clay to the docks, and shows a good collection of photos and relics that have been recovered from over 150 shipwrecks, as well as tableaux of historical scenes. One notable display tells the story of Frederick James Banfield, who was born in Helston in 1884. He perished in the sinking of the Titanic, and though his body was never recovered, many of the original letters he sent to his family are on display, along with other Titanic artefacts. It is estimated that there have been over 3,000 recorded shipwrecks round the coast of Cornwall, so this is the ideal place to site such a centre which has artefacts from over 150 wrecks worldwide. On each side of Charlestowns dock are coarse-sand and stone beaches sprinkled with
CARLYON BAY
2 miles SE of St Austell off the A390
47 THE SHIPWRECK & HERITAGE CENTRE

Charlestown An interesting heritage centre packed full of information and artefacts on shipwrecks from around the coast of Cornwall. See entry on page 151
This modern seaside resort lies almost at the centre of the long and sweeping St Austell Bay. Sheltered by Gribbin Head and Dodman Point, this bay is home to numerous beaches, including, at Carlyon Bay, Crinnis and neighbouring Polgaver.
CHARLESTOWN
1 mile SE of St Austell off the A390
48 ATISHOO DESIGNS
Charlestown A contemporary arts and crafts gallery situated in the village of Charlestown, a designated World Heritage Site and home to three working tall ships. See entry on page 151
St Austells nearest link to the sea is at Charlestown, an unspoilt port thats an easy mile downhill walk from the centre. This was originally a small fishing village called West Polmear until the 1970s when it was named after the entrepreneur Charles Rashleigh who built a harbour here to support the growing
72

small rock pools, above which cliff walks lead to the beaches around St Austell Bay.
PENTEWAN
3 miles S of St Austell off the B3273
The east-facing shoreline, to the south of St Austell, shelters some pretty villages, including Pentewan, which is pronounced Pen-tuan. Many visitors to the village end up on the broad, sandy Pentewan Beach, but a more engaging option is to head inland from the village to the awesome display of greenery at the Lost Gardens of Heligan, one of the countrys most interesting gardens - or, more properly, series of gardens. Situated at the heart of one of the most mysterious estates in England, Heligan Manor was the seat of the Tremayne family for more than 400 years. It was a huge estate, of over 1,000 acres, and had its own brewery, farms, saw mills, orchards, gardens, brickworks and flour mill. In many ways it was self-supporting, and had a staff of 20 inside and 22 outside. In World War I many of them were killed, and the Tremaynes eventually moved away, and the beautiful gardens were neglected. These world famous gardens were originally laid out in 1780 but lay undisturbed before being rediscovered, which was largely instigated by Tim Smit of Eden Project fame, in 1990. The restoration of the tiny Italian Garden was featured on the BBCs Gardeners World, the first phase in one of the largest garden restoration projects in the world. Heligan is a real living museum of 19th
century horticulture covering 80 acres, where the main focus is an exploration of mans relationship with the land. The marvelously abundant palm trees, giant Himalayan rhododendrons, immaculate vinery and glasshouse scattered about the garden all look as if theyve been transplanted from warmer climes. To get the most out of the gardens, its worth joining one of the guided tours, there are a range of tours available depending on the time of year and the interests of the group. On the wider estate, Lost Valley comprises lakes, wetlands and ancient broad-leaved woodland, and the ancient practices of coppicing and charcoalburning take place again. Horsemoor Hide is a wildlife interpretation centre and the Farm Walk offers access through permanent pasture, where hedgerows have been re-laid and the Heligan herd of Dexter cattle grazes the grassland slopes. Dont miss the delightful sleeping Mud Maid on the woodland walk, dressed in moss and lichen. These and other living sculptures can be found throughout the gardens. Pentewan is also famous for its stone, which was quarried nearby, and which was used in the construction of many of Cornwalls churches and larger houses. All Saints Parish Church, built in 1821 (but with a Norman south wall), is a good example of a church built in Pentewan stone. From the village, a charming trail leads up the beautiful Pentewan Valley which follows the course of the White River. Taking in both woodland and wetland, there is plenty to see and the trail is relatively flat, thus aiding both walkers and cyclists. If you want to get around by bike, head for Pentwean Valley Cycle Hire, which also offers routes, maps, advice, repairs and delivery services.
MEVAGISSEY
5 miles S of St Austell on the B3273
Lost Gardens of Heligan, Pentewan
The name Mevagissey is derived from the names of two saints, St Meva and St Issey. The first record of this hamlet was in 1313, but there were local settlements as far back
73
74
as the Bronze Age. Two Bronze Age burial urns were discovered at nearby Portmellon. The largest fishing village in St Austell Bay, Mevagissey was, like many Cornwall fishing villages, used for transporting pilchards as well as contraband. Once an important centre of the pilchard industry, in the 19th century catches of over 12,000 tons a year were landed here. The catching and processing of the fish employed nearly everyone in the village and, as well Mevagissey Harbour as smoking, salting and packing the fish, there were boatbuilders, net makers, rope makers, coopers and fish vessels. The museum has a broad collection merchants. The need to process the catch of artefacts that cover not only the pilchard within easy reach of the harbour created a industry but also old agriculture machinery, a labyrinth of buildings separated by steeply collection of 19th and 20th century sloping alleyways. Some of these alleys were photographs depicting village life and the so narrow that the baskets of fish sometimes story behind Pears soap. In 1789, Andrew had to be carried on poles between people Pears, a young Cornish barber, went to walking one behind the other. London where he began to groom the rich and influential. His customers complaints Mevagisseys Inner Harbour, as it appears about the harshness of the available soap led today, dates from the 1770s, when an Act of Andrew to experiment and develop a softer Parliament of 1774 allowed the construction soap that was more gentle on the skin - the of the new pier and jetties. The original still popular Pears soap. pier, where the East Pier now stands, dated Another attraction found close to the back as far as 1430. Many of the buildings harbour is the World of Model Railways, around this area of the town date from the which houses a fascinating display of some late 18th century when stone cottages and 2,000 models and over 30 trains; the detailed warehouses were built in place of the towns scenery through which the trains run is original cob cottages. The Outer Harbour exceptional, and even includes local features was built so that the size of the port could such as the china clay hills, a Cornish tin be increased to cater for the needs of the mine and even the fabled Beast of Bodmin growing fishing fleets. However, it was lurking in the shadows. A well-stocked model destroyed in the Great Storm of 1891 and it shop caters for everyone from the enthusiast was not finally finished until 1897. to the complete beginner, and those If drinking in the atmosphere on the interested in Thomas the Tank Engine will harbourside is not enough for you, the village also not be disappointed. offers an excellent museum, an aquarium The old RNLI lifeboat station that was displaying locally caught fish, a fine model built on the quayside in 1897 to allow for railway exhibition, art galleries, shops, pubs quick and easy launching has now become and restaurants. The Aquarium, amazingly admission is free Mevagissey Museum is the villages main but visitors are invited to make a donation attractions. The building has as much history all the money being used to maintain the as the exhibits inside: it was built in 1795 for harbour. The lifeboat station closed in the the construction and repair of smugglers 1930s after this original building had sustained boats, and most of its roof beams were regular and repeated storm damage. recycled from the revenue-dodgers old
GORRAN HAVEN
7 miles S of St Austell off the B3273
Gorran Haven, a former crab-fishing village, has a neat sandy beach that connects, at low tide, with the longer Great Perhaver Beach and is backed by the spectacular 370 feet high Dodman Point. Dodman Point ranks as one of south Cornwalls most dramatic headlands, and has been the cause of many a wreck. From its gorse-covered heights, you can look down on a chaos of reefs and rocks, and splendid views extend westward across Veryan Bay. One mile inland stands St Gorran Parish Church, which has 53 beautifully carved ancient pews ends. The tower dates from 1606, built when the medieval steeple collapsed. And in the village itself is the Church of St Just, which was originally a chapel-of-ease dating mainly from the 15th century. After the Reformation, it was abandoned and used to store fish nets. It was restored as a place of worship in the 19th century.
good road and rail links is within easy reach of almost every part of Cornwall. The arrival of the railway in 1859 confirmed Truros status as a regional capital and the granting of city status in 1877 ensured that Truro has remained Cornwalls commercial and administrative centre. The citys heritage is as a market town and port dating back over 800 years, booming during the tin mining industry. Although the river around Truro had begun to silt up and Falmouth was taking over as the main seagoing port of the area, the increase in mineral prices during the 18th century saw a revival of Truros fortunes. Wealthy merchants and bankers moved into the town and Truro became fashionable within high society, its reputation rivalling that of Bath. A number of picturesque
ST MICHAEL CAERHAYS
7 miles SW of St Austell off the B3287
In a beautiful setting of wood, stream and pasture, the battlemented Caerhays Castle, built in 1808 by John Nash, is near the village. Hitchcocks 1940 film of Rebecca was shot here. More compelling, though, are the 100 acres of wooded gardens surrounding it, displaying a world famous collection of camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons. The gardens are at their best in March, April and May, and are only open during these three months: N.B. the dates do vary from year to year, consult the website before visiting. Also St Michaels Parish Church in the village is well worth visiting.
Truro Cathedral
49 GRAVY
Truro One of Truros newest restaurant experiences offering a fresh approach to dining, coupled with an enviable service. See entry on page 152
TRURO
Connected to the Carrick Roads, Truro called after Tri-veru meaning three rivers, which includes the rivers Kenwyn and Allen, has developed close to the River Truro and with
75

alleyways, or opes, have survived from Truros days as a port and many have colourful names such as Tippets Backlet, Burtons Ope and Squeezeguts Alley. Nowadays the port is mostly used for pleasure cruises along the tributaries of the River Fal to Falmouth and St Mawes. The city is an excellent shopping centre, which comes to life at Christmas with the City of Lights lantern procession, now an established tradition in Truro. Truros most striking feature is the Cathedral, the first cathedral to be constructed on a new site since Salisbury, which commenced building in 1222. With its emphatically pointed arches and elaborate roof vaulting, the airy interior is notable for its Victorian stained glass windows, considered the finest collection in the country. Other treasures include two 14th century statues from Brittany given to Bishop Frere in 1929, the Bath stone reredos behind the high altar, and the terracotta panel Way of the Cross by George Tinworth. The cathedral has three organs, the most famous of these is the Father Willis Organ of 1887 which is widely regarded as one of the finest instruments in the country. Free lunchtime recitals on the famous organ take place every Friday from mid-March to mid-October. If you are spending any time in the county a visit to the Royal Cornwall Museum, housed in what was the Truro Savings Bank building, provides some essential context to your travels. The museums explores the history of the county from the Stone Age right up to the present day, whilst the art gallery is the home of works by Cornish artist John Opie, Constable and Turner as well as paintings by the Newlyn School of Artists. If you want to delve further into Cornwalls
past and present then the museums Courtney Library is an invaluable archive of manuscripts, housing around 150,000 items including, photographs, references works, art books, engravings and ephemera. Truro is fortunate in having some excellent parks and gardens, Victoria Gardens beside the River Kenwyn, originally created to commemorate Queen Victorias Diamond Jubilee, is filled with exotic trees, shrubs and flowers. You would not think you were in the middle of a city, the calm broken only occasionally by a train passing over the majestic granite viaduct nearby. The original viaduct was built by Isambard Kingdom Brunel in 1859, but was replaced with the present structure in 1904, and now carries the main line from Paddington to Penzance. Beside the Truro River, is Boscawen Park, named after Admiral Edward Boscawen, the younger son of Lord Falmouth, is the citys main open space with tennis courts, and cricket and football pitches. One of the citys best-known landmarks is a column commemorating the Lander brothers, Richard and John, who were born in Truro in the first decade of the 19th century. In 1830 Richard was commissioned to go to Africa to try to discover the source of the River Niger, and in 1832 he was awarded the first gold medal of the Royal Geographical Society. A mile from the city centre, surrounding a private house, are Bosvigo Gardens, beautifully planted with summer herbaceous borders to give the impression of moving from one room to another. The gardens are open from March to the end of September. Truros theatre, The Hall for Cornwall, is the largest theatre in Cornwall and can be found at Back Quay, in the heart of the city. A lively programme (of events is offered throughout the year.
50 THE HERON INN

Malpas, nr Truro Sipping a glass of cold white wine before a bowl of steaming mussels overlooking the glorious estuary on the Herons sun drenched terrace; heaven. See entry on page 153
AROUND TRURO
PROBUS
4 miles NE of Truro off the A390
The granite tower of St Probuss and St
76
Graces Parish Church is the tallest and grandest in all of Cornwall at 125 feet high. The saints to whom it is dedicated are also unusual, in that they were husband and wife. During renovation, male and female skulls were discovered buried near the altar, and it is thought that they were of the two saints. Just to the west of the village lies a place that will be of great interest to gardeners Trewithen House, Probus Trewithen House and Gardens. Built in the 1730s by Philip Hawkins, this early Georgian house, whose with painters and photographers, perhaps name literally means house of the trees, is because it has an unusual lych gate, with an filled with paintings, furniture and other upper room that was reputedly once used as artefacts collected over the years by the the village school. Hawkins family. At the front of the house TREGONY there is a small museum housing a number of 6 miles E of Truro on the B3287 historical curios - including the only full set of horse boots in Cornwall. Horse boots were Often referred to as the gateway to the made of leather and were worn to stop Roseland Peninsula, this village was, in the hooves cutting up the lawn whilst it was 14th century, a busy river port long before being cut. Though Trewithen House is itself Truro and Falmouth had developed. Built on worth a visit, most people come to see the the wealth of the local woollen trade, the gardens. These gardens covering some 30 surrounding mills produced a rough serge acres, were created in the early years of the known as Tregony Cloth, but due to tin last century, are outstanding and streaming in the St Stephens area the river internationally famous. They are renowned eventually silted up and the harbour became for their magnificent 24 Champion Trees and unusable. rare species of flowering shrubs, among them Despite no longer being a main port, magnolias and rhododendrons, and a notable Tregony remains a very quaint and charming camellia collection that includes x williamsii, village. There are still some features of the a cross between camellia saluensis and village that should be seen when visiting. On camellia japonica. Fore Street there is an unusual clock tower, ST CLEMENT and there is also an almshouse that was built in the 17th century, which features an 1 miles E of Truro off the A390 Though little more than a suburb of Truro nowadays, this hamlet should be visited to see the 14th century St Clements Parish Church. The church is on an ancient site, for a Dark Age inscribed stone, (dedicated to Isniocus Vitalis, a 3rd century Roman, but which also bears inscriptions in the ancient Ogham alphabet of the Celts) was found here. The place has long been a favourite
51 THE KINGS ARMS

Tregony This traditional inn offers fine home cooking, accredited real Cornish ales and a unique wishing well in the bar. See entry on page 154
77

unusual wooden gallery. Also as you climb up Tregony Hill you pass the site of a Roman Castle known as Treg-ney, from which the village got its name.
RUAN LANIHORNE
4 miles SE of Truro off the A3078
Situated on the old main coaching route from London to Penzance, this now quiet village is a bird lovers paradise as the creek is a haven for waders and waterfowl. St Rumons Parish Church dates mainly from the 14th century, and is dedicated to a saint who is also the patron saint of Tavistock in Devon. In Brittany he is known as St Ronan. He is said to have been a royal prince who lived the life of a hermit in Ireland until he was consecrated bishop.
which lie at the entrances to Veryan. Built in the early 19th century for the daughters of the local vicar, Jeremiah Trist, the whitewashed cottages each have a conical thatched roof with a wood cross at the apex. It was believed that their circular shape would guard the village from evil as the Devil would be unable to hide in any corners. Today, however, the Veryan Roundhouses have been extended with conventional devil friendly square buildings!
PORTLOE
VERYAN
This charming village, set in a wooded hollow, is famous for its five Roundhouses
The name Portloe comes from the Cornish Porth Logh which means, cove pool. Portloe village is seen by most as a gem on the Roseland Peninusla and is the living reality of a Cornish fishing village, with stone cottages surrounding the tiny harbour, which is overshadowed by the steep cliff. Because of its naturally sheltered location the village flourished during the 17th and 18th centuries as a pilchard fishing port. A lot of smuggling took place at Portloe during the 19th century. The item of choice for the smugglers was French brandy, which was brought ashore to Portloe and hidden in cellars by fishermen and local farmers. To the east of Portloe, the cove of Portholland and Caerhays Castle and beach can be reached within 10 minutes.
CARNE
Veryan Round Houses
52 THE ROSELAND INN

Philleigh, nr Truro Spectacular business with a warm and inviting ambience. One of the few properties to have their own micro brewery, providing delicious real ales in a truly unspoilt rural setting. See entry on page 155
Overlooking Gerrans Bay on land owned by the National Trust stands Carne Beacon. One of the largest Bronze Age barrows in the country, this ancient burial mound is thought to be the grave of King Geraint, who, in the 5th century, is said to have rowed across the bay in a golden boat with silver oars. He is reputed to have been buried in full regalia, but recent excavations have failed to confirm this story. An interesting 2-mile geological
78

trail runs from the car park at Pendower along the beach to Carne and back again by the public footpath. During World War II Cornwalls first above-ground aircraft reporting post, made of wood and containing observation and plotting equipment, was sited at Carne Beacon, though many local people objected strongly to such a historic site being used.
PORTSCATHO
Portscatho, along with many other villages along the south coast including St Mawes and Mevagissey, were well known for pilchard fishing, which was an important factor in the growth of the local economy. This pleasant and unspoilt fishing village, with its sandy beach on Gerrans Bay, is well worth a visit and may appear familiar to anyone who watched the television drama, The Camomile Lawn, as it was used as the filming location. Nowadays Portscatho, and the neighbouring village of Gerrans, have almost joined to form one village. Only five-minutes walk apart, Gerrans lies at the top of the hill above Portscatho and the medieval spire has acted as a landmark to generations of local sailors.
few minutes walk north of the village. Like Pendennis Castle, across the water in Falmouth, St Mawes Castle was built in the 1540s, under the order of Henry VIII, to protect Falmouth and its estuary from invading ships. Both castles adhere to the clover-leaf design, with a central round keep surrounded by robust gun emplacements, between them their cannon could cover the entire entrance to the Fal estuary. The parish church for St Mawes stands in St Just in Roseland, though at one time a small chapel dedicated to St Mawes, or Mandatus, stood in the town along with his holy chair and holy well. Not a stone from any of them now remains.
ST ANTHONY
9 miles S of Truro off the A3078
ST MAWES
7 miles S of Truro on the A3078
Sloping to the sea, this pretty village is lined with attractive villas, gardens and thatched cottages. Overlooking the breathtaking River Fal and Falmouth, St Mawes is a popular sailing centre in the shelter of Carrick Roads, with a safe anchorage and good beaches. Most people come here to see the small and pristine St Mawes Castle, just out of sight a
At the southernmost tip of the Roseland Peninsula is St Anthony Headland. At the foot of this squat headland stands St Anthonys Lighthouse, which was built in 1835 and replaced a coal beacon that for centuries had warned sailors off the infamous Manacles, a reef jutting out from the Lizard Peninsula. It is well worth exploring, especially for the throngs of seabirds that nest hereabouts. This headland, which guards the entrance into Carrick Roads, has had a strategic importance for many years and, on the cliff top behind the lighthouse, are the remains of St Anthony Battery. In military use right up until the 1950s, this was a significant World War II observation post. Further back in history, about 450 years ago, coastal defences were provided by Henry VIII who built St Mawes Castle and Pendennis Castle in Falmouth.
ST JUST IN ROSELAND
53 THE ROYAL STANDARD
Gerrans This traditional inn has a real sense of history and offers its guests delicious homemade Cornish food and award winning ales. See entry on page 156 6 miles S of Truro on the B3289
This enchanting hamlet is home to the exquisite 13th century St Just Parish Church, which lies in one of the most superb settings in the country. Surrounded by gardens that contain many subtropical trees and shrubs, including African fire bush and Chilean myrtle - it is probably Cornwalls most photographed
79
church, and arguably its most beautiful. The present church was dedicated to St Just on 14th August 1261, by Walter, Bishop of Exeter, and the chancel with its double piscina is of this date. St Just is said to have been a son of Geriant of Anglesey, after whom Gerrans Bay is named. A.V. Morton, in his book In Search of England, called the churchyard one of the little known glories of Trelissick House and Gardens England. Unfortunately, the interior of the church does not live up to expectations as it underwent a showcase for the work of artists and clumsy Victorian restoration. craftsmen working in Cornwall. The shop sells gifts, souvenirs, books and plants, and light TRELISSICK refreshments and lunches are served. It is 3 miles S of Truro off the B3289 open all year. Close to the estate is the landing point of The Trelissick Estate stands at the head of the King Harry Ferry which takes cars and the estuary of the River Fal. There are passengers across the narrow, yet deep, beautiful landscaped gardens featuring stretch of water on the River Fal between hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias, 500 Feock on the west bank and Philleigh on the acres of parkland and riverside woods Roseland Peninsula. There has been a ferry overlooking the River Fal and Carrick Roads. crossing at this point for centuries; the latest The estates Cornish apple orchard is another chain ferry was installed in 2006 and is one interesting feature here and it was created to of only six chain ferries at work in Britain. preserve many traditional apple species. The River trips can be taken in summer from 18th century house is dominated by a either Truro or Falmouth across to the new columned portico, which was added in the pontoon at Trelissick. mid 19th century. The 12-bedroom manor house is owned and lived in by the Copeland FEOCK family and is not open to the public. 4 miles S of Truro off the B3289 However, several of the outbuildings have been converted to take visitors; in the A picture perfect village, with charming stables is a display of saddlery, while another whitewashed thatched cottages, Feock is on building is home to Trelissick Gallery, a the Carrick Roads part of the Fal estuary. A
54 HALWYNS TEA GARDENS

Old Kea, nr Truro A beautifully old fashioned tea garden set in the gardens of a charming Cornish cottage overlooking the banks of the River Fal. See entry on page 158
55 THE OLD QUAY INN

Devoran This long established traditional pub, situated at the head of Restronguet Creek in Devoran, is enjoying a renaissance under new owners Hannah and John Calland. See entry on page 157
80

pleasant creekside walk - start at Point, just to the west of the village and head towards Devoran along the side of Restronguet Creek - traces the course of an old tramway, which dates from the time when this area was not as peaceful and tranquil as it is today but was a bustling port serving inland Cornwall. To the south of Feock, a country lane leads to the tip of Restronguet Point giving great views but, unfortunately, there is no parking or turning at the end.
between Truro and Plymouth carrying drink. In fact it was probably named after a packet ship, which carried mail from Falmouth to Europe and beyond.
FLUSHING
MYLOR BRIDGE
Both Mylor Bridge and Mylor Churchtown are popular yachting centres with a club and FALMOUTH many water-borne activities. Mylor 8 miles S of Truro on the A39 Churchtown, at the mouth of the creek, is the smaller of the two and was once a In Britains Western Approaches and guarding dockyard and landing place for the packet the entrance into Carrick Roads, Falmouth is ships which carried mail throughout the a spectacular deep-water anchorage that is world. It is now known as Mylor Yacht the worlds third deepest natural harbour. Harbour. The place was originally called Peny-cwnSt Mylor Parish Church has a scenic cuik, which very soon became Anglicised as churchyard that contains many amusing Pennycomequick. It was the construction of inscriptions on the tombstones as well as, Pendennis Castle, by Henry VIII, in the 16th close to the south porch, a round-headed century that really prepared the ground for Celtic Cross which, at over 17 feet tall, is the growth of Falmouth. Today it is one of the tallest in Cornwall. Just 10 feet Falmouths most popular attraction, its a now show above the ground. Dating from the less refined contemporary of the castle at St 10th century, it was rediscovered during Mawes (see also St Mawes), but the site on restorations in Victorian times after having its own pointed peninsula wins hands down, been used for centuries as a flying buttress the stout ramparts offering superb panoramic against the south wall of the church. Some views. Its low circular keep has extremely people have speculated that at one time it thick walls and it stands within a 16-sided may have marked St Mylors grave. To the northeast of Mylor Bridge, a country lane leads to the Pandora Inn. A typical whitewashed and thatched 17th century inn, it was known as the Passage House until 1850, when its name was changed to the present one. Some claim that the new name comes from the ship which was sent out to capture the mutineers from the Bounty, while others claim it was named after a small Pendennis Castle, Falmouth schooner that regularly sailed
Another popular yachting centre, this small village was built by settlers from Vlissingen in Holland in the 17th century and still retains a Dutch appearance. A prosperous port in the 17th and 18th centuries, Flushings narrow streets are home to some fine Queen Anne houses, many of which were built to house sea captains and naval officers.
81

enclosure - the outer curtain wall was added in response to the threat of a second Spanish Armada in Elizabethan times. One of the last Royalist strongholds to fall during the Civil War (in 1646), and then only after a grim five month siege from land and sea, Pendennis Castle remained in use up until the end of World War II. Although a settlement has existed here for hundreds of years, it was not until the 17th century that the port was properly developed. During its heyday, in the early 19th century, Falmouth was the base for almost 40 packet ships delivering mail, but, a few decades later, the introduction of steampowered vessels heralded the end of Falmouths mail delivery service as it lost out to Southampton. Today the port town has retained its maritime importance as the start and finish of many a transatlantic voyage, and regularly hosts international, national and local sailing events. Promising an experience as big as the sea, the National Maritime Museum Cornwall on Discovery Quay is home to Cornwalls Maritime Heritage and the National Small Boat Collection, and special exhibitions include the Falmouth First and Last Gallery, highlighting the importance of Falmouths nautical heritage. You can climb to the top of the Lookout Tower for breathtaking views over the harbour, docks
and estuary. Pirates and smugglers too were attracted to Falmouth and, on Custom House Quay stands an early 19th century brick-built incinerator and chimney known as the Queens Pipe. It was here that contraband tobacco seized by Falmouths customs men was burnt. As well as carrying commercial cargoes around the world, the ships coming into Falmouth also brought exotic plants from such places as China, Australia and the Americas. Many of the subtropical trees and shrubs ended up in private gardens but the towns four central public gardens, Fox Rosehill, Queen Mary, Kimberley Park and Gyllyngdune are also packed with such plants as magnolias and palms which all benefit from the mild climate. Gyllyngdune Gardens have a splendid centrepiece in the shape of an Edwardian bandstand; a grotto walkway links the formal gardens to the seafront area. Among a long list of events that take place every year, of special note are the Fal River Festival (lateMay/earlyJune), Falmouth Sea Shanty Festival (mid-June) and the Falmouth Oyster Festival (mid-October). West of Pendennis Point stretches a series of long sand bays with various beaches, the most popular of these, Gyllyngvase Beach, is the only beach of the RNLI Carrick district
56 TREGENNA GUEST HOUSE & CASTLE BEACH CAF

Falmouth Welcoming guest house offering unbeatable comfort with eight wellappointed bedrooms. Castle Beach Caf serves a range of drinks and freshly prepared light meals. See entry on page 159
58 PEA SOUK
Falmouth This quirky little restaurant is tucked away off the main street, focusing on delicious Middle Eastern flavours and sumptuous vegetarian cuisine. See entry on page 160
57 FINN MCOULS
Falmouth Great Irish pub in the centre of Falmouth filled with live music, lively people and a fantastic atmosphere. See entry on page 158
59 NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

Falmouth Offering a wide range of hands-on displays, a superb collection of small boats, demonstrations of boat-building, lectures, a research library, a meteorology gallery, remote-control scale-model boats and exhibitions. See entry on page 160
82

that is on the South Coast. Gylly, as its affectionately known, is one of few beaches in Cornwall that has sand as well as reef, and on a bright day when the sea is calm and glassy, theres nothing better than taking a snorkel, mask and fins into the water to have a look at how much life there is around here. Big waves are rare here and so Gyllngvase is a favourite among families, sunbathers and swimmers rather than surfers. Penryn River While for those looking for a wilder time there is the Ships and Castles Leisure Centre, complete with its rapid river run, flume and wave machine. For those keen to explore the upper reaches of Carrick Roads by boat, a number of pleasure trips depart from Prince of Wales pier, as do the passenger ferry to St Mawes and several others along the coast. A short distance from the pier is the tree-lined square known as the Moor, where the town hall and award-winning Falmouth Art Gallery can be found. The gallery is home to one of Cornwalls most noteworthy collections of paintings, including pieces by many prominent local English artists. Both seasonal exhibitions and an extensive permanent collection are on offer here, including watercolours, oil paintings and many pictures with a strong maritime theme. Entry is free. A little way outside town is Swanpool Nature Reserve, a brackish lagoon that is home to a wide variety of wildlife. Over 100 species of birds have been recorded at this Site of Special Scientific Interest, and one creature is unique to Swanpool: this is the Trembling Sea Mat, which belongs to the primitive group Bryozoa.
controlling port at the mouth of Carrick Roads. At one time, granite quarried close by was shipped from here all over the world, in fact, some of the most prominent dwellings and world renowned monuments were built from the granite stone quarried in Penryn; to name a few- London Bridge and Singapore harbour. Centuries ago, the small port town served as home and educational quarters for many priests in training. The Glasney College or Priory was founded in the mid 12th century; but later demolished in the 15th century. Today, visitors are permitted to view the relics of what is left of the famous college. Since Penryns beginnings were built on education it seemed only right when Penryn was asked to be the new home of the University of Exeters Institute of Cornish Studies and world-renowned Camborne School of Mines. One of the specialists in mining education, Robert Hunt, is remembered here in the schools impressive Geological Museum, which displays minerals and rocks from all over the world.
PENRYN
7 miles SW of Truro on the B3292
60 MISS PEAPODS
Penryn This contemporary and pioneering caf strikes an exquisite balance between the comfort of home cooking and Mediterranean sensibilities. See entry on page 161
Penryn is perhaps one of the oldest towns in the Cornwall districts. It was founded in 1216, receiving a royal charter from King Jamess I in 1621. Before Falmouths rise to prominence in Tudor times, Penryn was the
83

Penryn was the home of Thomas Pellow (born circa 1704) who spent two decades as a white slave in Morocco. Pirates captured him in 1715 when he was just 11-years-old. He stayed 23 years as a captive before escaping back to England. Pellows story is told in his autobiography, The History of the Long Captivity and Adventures of Thomas Pellow (1740) and in White Gold: The Extraordinary Story of Thomas Pellow and North Africas One Million European Slaves (2007) by Giles Milton. A fascinating insight into local history can be found at Penryns museum, located on the ground floor of the town hall. Another reminder of the towns maritime past is the illusive tale of a family wiped out through greed, which forms the basis of the play, The Penryn Tragedy. After years at sea, a young sailor from Penryn returned to his parents home, Bohelland Barn, and, as a joke, he disguised himself as a rich man but not before telling his sister of his plan. His parents, overcome with temptation on meeting this rich stranger, murdered the young man for his money. Next morning, the sister came in search of her brother and the full horror of their crime caused her parents to commit suicide. The particulars connected with this horrid deed, were preserved in a small pamphlet, which was published in 1618, the same year the event is said to have taken place. This curious pamphlet, however, no longer appears to be in existence.
longer economically viable. Before the mining boom, in the first half of the 19th century, Camborne was a small village surrounded by moorland, and the results of its rapid expansion at the time can still be seen in the numerous terraces of 18th and 19th century miners houses. Contrasting with these densely populated streets and alleyways, the Literary Institute, built in 1829 in granite, has a grand Tuscan style. A Town Trail now guides visitors around this historic former mining town, introducing the many interesting buildings that could easily be missed among the bustle of Cambornes busy town centre. One such building is Camborne Library, which is a fine example of Cornish architecture. It was designed by well-known architect Sylvanus Trevail and opened for the first time in 1895. The St Martin & St Meriadocus Parish Church is another interesting building; inside the church itself is a fascinating sight. The Levuit altar slab is a piece of grey elvan with a key-patterned border - historians believe it to be at least 1,000-years-old. Left of the Leviut stone is the memorial to Sir William Pendarves (1726); his coffin is said to have been made out of the first copper that was raised from the South Roskear mine. Camborne is particularly associated with a number of great engineers and inventors who helped to transform the industry and economy of the county and made Cornish mining engineering famous throughout the world. Its not surprising then, that Camborne
CAMBORNE
Once the capital of Cornwalls main tin and copper mining area, Camborne and neighbouring Redruth at one time accounted for two-thirds of the worlds copper production. In the 1850s, there were well over 300 pits in the area employing some 50,000 workers. At the end of the 19th century the mines had to close when the discovery of extensive mineral deposits in the Americas, South Africa and Australia rendered the local industry no
Trevithick Trust, Camborne
84

was once home to the School of Mines (now at Penryn). In the town centre you can see Richard Trevithicks (1771-1833) statue, standing prominently outside Camborne Library. In 1932, Prince George unveiled the famous piece of work in front of a crowd of thousands of proud Cornish residents. Godrevy Island The statue depicts the inventor with a model of the Camborne locomotive under one arm and a pair of dividers in the other. Look at the panels on the statue, which lists Trevithicks other famous inventions. Trevithick Cottage, at Penponds where he was born, is owned by the National Trust, and can be visited on Wednesday afternoons between April and October. Though a genius, Trevithick died penniless and was buried in an unmarked grave in Dartford, Kent. The town still honours its great son on the last Saturday in April each year, with the Trevithick Day Festival.
recalls strands of her Cornish sojourns.
PORTREATH
3 miles N of Camborne on the B3300
AROUND CAMBORNE
GODREVY POINT
5 miles NW of Camborne off the B3301
Owing to its position at the northernmost tip of Hayles three miles of golden sand, Godrevy takes the brunt of the Atlantic swell and is one of the more exposed beaches of the north coast. It is a place of moods ranging from buckets and spades on a sunny summers day to classic rugged Cornish splendour on a stormy winters day. Godrevy Point is a well-known beauty spot, along with Navax Point where seals can be sighted off shore. The beach terminates with a low rocky headland and a short distance from the point lies Godrevy Island on which stands the beautiful white lighthouse of Virginia Woolfes To The Lighthouse fame. Although the novel is set on a Hebridean island, the lighthouse of the title is Godrevy where Woolf spent her summers, and the story
During the 19th century, this now quiet village was at its busiest with over 100,000 tons of copper passing through the port and equally vast quantities of coal were received here from the coalfields of South Wales. Prior to the quay being constructed by the Basset family in 1760, copper ore from the mines around Redruth had to be loaded on to ships from the beach, which was not only a slow job, but also a dangerous one. Some years later, in 1809, the new Harbour was connected to the mines by the first railway in Cornwall. The Basset family was one of the four most powerful families in Cornwall with extensive lands and mineral rights in this western part of the county. Inland at Carn Brea, near Redruth, there is a memorial dedicated to the family. With the general decline in mining fortunes in the county in the early years of the 20th century, the influence of the family also waned. Tehidy house, just south of Portreath, was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt, though in 1918
61 PORTREATH ARMS
Portreath A former sea captains residence, this wonderful hotel is situated on the Cornish Way. Fantastic tenants will make you feel at home and provide wonderful food, drink and bed and breakfast accommodation. See entry on page 162
85

some of the buildings were turned into a hospital. Today the estate is a country park and open to the public. Portreath is historically rich and naturally blessed, and now cares for the needs of a multitude of visitors each year. This popular holiday spot has a secluded, sandy beach, which is ideal for the family and for the more energetic watersports enthusiasts. Like many beaches on the north Cornish coast, surfers, and in particular body-boarders, turn up in force at high tide on big swells to surf the harbour wall, or Vortex as it is known. Though you may be content with the beach here, Portreath is within walking distance of other coastal attractions, notably the aweinspiring Hells Mouth, a cauldron of waves and black rocks at the base of high cliffs. While just to the north of Tehidy Country Park, the village also marks the starting point of the Mineral Tramway Walks. For a fun day out, Treasure Park, at Tolgus Mill,near Portreath, is a unique shopping and attractions experience; for heritage visit the Tolgus tin museum and climb aboard the Tolgus Tin 4-D haunted mine ride; Cornish Goldsmiths has the largest collection of gold jewellery in the West Country, but its not all about gold, you will find silver, crystal and pearls, too. Other surprises to be had here include pottery painting, the chance to have your photo taken with the Dolorian car from the film Back to Future or to make a bear and bring it to life.
in an audiovisual overview of the history of Cornish mining and the miners, though the two dramatic beam engines take centre stage; at Michells Engine House, the winding engine now operated by electricity was originally worked by steam and raised ore and miners from 1,600 feet below surface, Another giant at Taylors Shaft, adjacent to the visitor centre, is one of the largest (and the last) Cornish engines to be constructed, originally built in 1892 to pump water form the nearby Carn Brea mines.
ST DAY
4 miles E of Camborne off the B3298
A Heritage Trail around this village and the adjoining Lanner and Carharrack takes in the historic sites which are all that remain from the time when, in the 19th century, St Day was known as the richest square mile in the world due to the number of copper and tin mines in the area. St Day is, therefore, a relatively unaltered, if not fossilised, example of a boom-time market centre.
GWENNAP
4 miles E of Camborne on the A393
POOL
2 miles NE of Camborne on the A3047
The mysterious Gwennap Pit, found just outside St Day, is a round, grass covered amphitheatre 114 feet in diameter that is thought to have been created by the collapse of a subterranean mine shaft. Used as a cock pit, this curious theatre is sometimes referred to as the Methodist Cathedral, as it
Gwennap Pit
Pool is one of several villages that have been consumed by the Camborne and Redruth conurbation. Very much in the heart of Cornwalls mining area, here can be found Cornish Mines and Engines, where the secrets of the countys dramatic landscape can be discovered, and where Trevithicks mighty steam engines are explained. At the Cornwall Industrial Discovery Centre you can take
86

was here that John Wesley preached on many occasions from 1743 onwards. At one time Wesley estimated that the congregation here exceeded 30,000, noting in his diary, I shall scarce see a larger congregation till we meet in the air. In 1806, the seating terraces were cut into the banks and, the following year, a Whit Monday service was held which has continued and is now the annual focus for Methodist pilgrimage from around the world.
REDRUTH
2 miles E of Camborne on the A393
This market town was once, along with much of the surrounding area, at the centre of the countys mining industry and, as such, was a prosperous town. Some pockets of Victorian, Georgian and earlier buildings still remain and, particularly at Churchtown, there are some attractive old cottages and St Unys Parish Church, mainly Georgian with a 15th century tower. The lychgate has an unusually long coffin rest that was built to deal with the aftermath of mining disasters. Redruth was also the home of the Scottish inventor William Murdoch (1754-1839) who was responsible for such innovations as coal-gas lighting and the vacuum powered tubes that were once a common feature in department stores. His house, the first in Britain to use gas lighting, can still be seen, marked with a plaque. The landscape surrounding Redruth is dominated by the dramatic Carn Brea pronounced Bray- where there are remains of Iron Age hill forts, Carn Brea Castle and also a 90 feet monument to the mine owner Francis Basset, a benevolent Georgian land and mine owner who did much to improve the lot of poor labourers. There are spectacular views from here, which reach to
St Ives in the west and the Lizard Peninsula in the south. Another attraction south of Redruth, at Treskillard, is the Shire Horse & Carriage Museum. To many, a heavy horse toiling to pull a plough across a muddy field conjures up an image of true rural tranquillity sacrificed to the tyranny of tractors. But according to one expert, traditional breeds of the magnificent beasts are on the brink of extinction. Here you can see the shire horses at rest, play and work, along with the biggest collection of horse drawn buses in Britain. The museum opens from Easter to the end of September, although the horses can often be seen every Friday at Portreath Beach where, weather permitting, they are taken for a run along the sand.
TUCKINGMILL
1 miles E of Camborne off the A3047
While most places in this area devoted their energies to the mining industry, Tuckingmill was home to a fuse factory (the last fuseworks closed in the 1960s) that went on to become world famous for the production of safety fuses. Much of this complex survives including the imposing granite faade and the model terraced workers housing. Invented in 1830 by William Bickford, the fuses were used widely in Hollywood films and, most notably, as dynamite fuses in Mission: Impossible.
TROON
1 mile SE of Camborne off the B3303
Though not as famous as the golfing town of the same name in Scotland, Troon in Cornwall should still be visited for the restored King Edward Mine Museum, on the northern edge
62 THE MELTING POT CAFE

Redruth Delicious homemade food, excellent coffee and a wide selection of drinks in its fully licensed bar. The Melting Pot is well worth a visit. See entry on page 163
63 THE BREA INN

Higher Brea In the heart of mining country this friendly and traditional inn offers well kept real ales, and a wide ranging menu catering for vegetarians, vegans with guest accommodation. See entry on page 164
87

of the village. Here, the exhibits tell the remarkable story of how this mine has survived almost intact for over 100 years. The visitor is taken on a guided tour of the mill to see much of the rare equipment in use, as it would have been in the early 1900s.
STITHIANS
5 miles SE of Camborne off the A393
This quiet rural village is home Stithians Reservoir to what is claimed to be the largest agricultural show in and shrubs, and spring displays of magnolias Cornwall, which takes place every July. The and camellias. In their season glorious 300-acre Stithians Reservoir, just to the west displays of wild flowers carpet the valley of the village, is a watersports centre and also slopes. The famous Heade Maze, created in home to a bird sanctuary. The reservoir is 1833 from laurels, and the Giants Stride - a undoubtedly the best area of open water for maypole - are two features that are bird watching in the county (equalled arguably particularly popular with younger visitors to by some, only by Drift Reservoir near this beautiful and secluded garden. Penzance). The Parish Church of St Stithians Carwinion, also near Mawnan Smith, is an is medieval, with a Victorian chancel. 18th century manor house set in 12 acres of Victorian gardens overlooking the Helford TREVERNA estuary, which today offers traditional bed 8 miles SE of Camborne off the A394 and breakfast and Cornish fare. To the north of this village is the Argal and College Water Park, which offers watersports and coarse fishing. A mile and a half to the southeast is Penjerrick, a 10-acre garden created by the Quaker Fox family in the 19th century. Penjerrick is an example of what happens when a woodland garden comprising large, flowering shrubs is allowed to grow away. Ducking to avoid overhanging boughs, the terrain is not suitable for everyone, but there is something quite magical about this small and verdant corner of Cornwall.
MAWNAN
Set apart from the village on an elevated position, the granite 15th century St Mawnan Parish Church, and particularly its tower, was used as a landmark by sailors for centuries. Built on a spur at the mouth of the River Helford, this tower is an excellent viewing point not only for those wishing to take in this sweeping coastline but it was
MAWNAN SMITH
64 CARWINION HOUSE
Mawnan Smith, nr Falmouth An 18th Century stone manor house offering the perfect bed and breakfast retreat. See entry on page 163
Just to the west of this pretty village, which overlooks the River Helford, are the National Trust gardens of Glendurgan. This valley garden of great beauty was created in the 1820s and developed over many years by the Fox family, and includes many exotic trees
88

also used as a lookout post during times of war and potential invasion. St Mawnan himself was an Irish bishop who seems to have had a particularly bad temper. When St Maelruain refused to absolve him for some minor misdemeanor, Mawnan is supposed to have cursed him, adding that the time will come when women will get above themselves, the poor will lack reverence to their betters, and churches will be poorly attended. About a mile northeast of here, Rosemullion Head juts out into Falmouth Bay. Strewn with wild flowers, it is reachable on the cast path that winds around to Maenporth and beyond to Falmouth.
and children will be enthralled by the Gunnera Passage, a tunnel of giant rhubarb 16 feet high, jungle walks and an exciting paraglide. The purpose-built visitor and education centre includes exhibition space, a lecture theatre, cafe and gift shop. It also lies at the southern end of Glendurgan Gardens (see also Mawnan Smith), making it possible to have a dualpurpose visit to the area.
HELFORD PASSAGE
DURGAN
Durgan is a small shingle beach that was, for centuries, a fishing village whose daily catch was transported to Falmouth by donkey. Now a peaceful backwater, Durgan is also home to Trebah Garden - often dubbed the garden of dreams, and often rated among the top 80 gardens in the world. The Bishops of Exeter long ago owned the ravine in which the garden has been created and in the 1830s the land was bought by the Fox family. The 25 acres of the garden fall down to a secluded private beach on Helford River and here visitors can discover glades of subtropical shrubs and trees, 100 year old rhododendrons, waterfalls and ponds of giant Koi carp. This is a garden for all the family
Situated on the opposite bank of the estuary from Helford, this hamlet is a popular mooring point, with sailing and motor-boats for hire, and also a sand and shingle beach. During the summer a ferry runs from here across the estuary, as it has since the Middle Ages; those who take the ferry can explore the gardens at Trebah (see also Durgan) and Glendurgan (see also Mawnan Smith), which are just five-minutes apart, and full of subtropical plants.
HELSTON
The town stands on the east bank of the River Cober, its very different nowadays from its former appearance when, as Hellaz, it was a busy port that exported tin and copper. That was before the river was cut off from the sea by a shingle bar, Loe Bar, in the 13th century. The shingle bar turned what was once a small tidal creek into Cornwalls largest lake, the Loe Pool, a mile south of the town. Despite losing its port, Helston remained an important centre as a Stannary town, as recalled in the name of its thoroughfare Coinagehall Street. Helstons long and colourful history has left it with a legacy of interesting Georgian, Regency and Victorian buildings which all help to give it a quaint and genteel air. Walking up Coinagehall Street, youll pass
Grylls Monument, Helston
89
90
the Blue Anchor Inn, a thatched building, originally a monks rest house, which became a tavern in the 15th century. Further up, youll find one of the oldest buildings in Helston, Angel House, which was the former town house of the renowned Godolphin family. In the 1750s, the Earl of Godolphin rebuilt St Michaels Parish Church in Georgian style, and, in the churchyard of this unusual granite structure, lies a Flora Dance, Helston memorial to Henry Trengrouse, the Helston man responsible for inventing the rocket propelled safety line hats, tails and dress gowns. Not only do they which saved so many lives around the British dance through the streets, they also weave in coast. Trengrouse devoted himself to its and out of houses and shops. development after the frigate Anson ran You can learn more about the festival and aground on nearby Loe Bar in 1807 and 100 other aspects of the towns history at the people lost their lives unnecessarily. He was splendid Helston Folk Museum. The cannon not much feted in Britain, but was presented that guards its entrance was taken from the with a diamond ring by the Tsar of Russia; the aforementioned Anson, which was wrecked on the Loe Bar in 1807 with much loss of life. The inventor was later forced by penury to pawn exhibitions here include trades associated with the ring and he died penniless in 1854. Helston such as fishing, agriculture and On Meaneage Street, is the Neoclassical mining, along with exhibits depicting domestic Guildhall, itself the starting point for life. Another of the towns famous sons is also internationally famous Festival of the Furry, rememberd here, Bob Fitzsimmons (1863or Flora Dance. The origins of the name are 1917), the first boxer to hold the world unclear but it could have been derived from middleweight, light heavyweight and the Middle English word ferrie which heavyweight championship titles. suggests a Christian festival or from the As you head out of Helston, past the Celtic feur, which means holiday or fair. As Coronation Park & Boating Lake, towards the it is held in May, this would suggest that the fishing village of Porthleven, youll come to festival has connections with ancient pagan the parkland of the Penrose Estate, which spring celebrations. There are various stories offers some beautiful woodland walks and is and legends surrounding the Furry Dance and owned by the National Trust. Forming part of one tells how St Michael intercepted the the estate, Loe Pool is a haven for sea birds as Devil, flying across Cornwall carrying a large well as waterfowl. A Cornish folk tale links the stone to block the gates of Hell. During the Pool with the Arthurian legend of the Lady of ensuing encounter, the Devil dropped the the Lake: like Bodmin Moors Dozmary Pool, a boulder and the place where it fell became hand is said to have risen from the depths of known as Hells Stone, or Helston. The the water to catch the dying King Arthurs people of Helston took to the streets dancing sword. Another local story connects Loe Bar to celebrate St Michaels victory and this is with the legendary rogue, Jan Tregeagle, who said to be the original Furry Dance, which was set the task of weaving a rope from its takes place on the nearest Saturday to St sand as a punishment. Michaels Day (8 May). The Helston Town Two miles northwest of the town is Band leads dances throughout the day, and in Trevarno Estate and Gardens, a beautiful the principal dance the participants wear top

and rare estate that has a long history that stretches back to 1246 when Randolphus de Trevarno first gave the land its name. Over the centuries the 70 acres of gardens and grounds have been developed and extended, and in 1995 it was put up for sale for the first time in 120 years in 33 lots. However, the estate was saved, and today, Trevarno has become known as one of the finest gardens in the county and one that displays a great gardening tradition. From walled gardens, a sunken Italian garden and Victorian and Georgian gardens to mature woodlands, there are many different styles to be discovered here along with a yew tunnel, bluebell valley, and a Victorian boathouse and an extensive collection of rare trees and shrubs. The estates National Museum of Gardening, housed in a modern purposedesigned building, complements the grounds and highlights the ingenuity of gardeners down the ages by the range of gardening implements, antiques, memorabilia and ephemera on display. Unfortunately, at the time of writing the estate is again up for sale and, although it will be open for the 2011 season, its future is unsure. To the east of the town lies another interesting attraction that will keep all the family amused for hours Flambards, which started life as an aeropark in 1976. Today, the Flambards Experience encompasses a theme park, which boasts the best thrill rides in Cornwall with its famous Hornet Rollercoaster, Canon River Log Flume and amazing Extreme Force. And for those after a more sedate experience there is the Victorian Village and Britain in the Blitz a visit to Flambards is like taking a step back in time. Close to Flambards is the Royal Navys land and sea rescue headquarters at Culdrose, one
of the largest and busiest helicopter bases in Europe. Aircraft from here have been responsible for a great many successful search and rescue operations since the base was commissioned in 1947 as HMS Seahawk. The public are only allowed entry into Culdrose on Air Day, which is held each year in the summer, this is the only time that visitors get to experience the sights, sounds and smells of a working military Naval Air Station.
AROUND HELSTON
WENDRON
2 miles N of Helston on the B3297
Close to this bleak village is one of the many mines that have been worked in this area since the 15th century. Now reopened as the Poldark Mine Heritage Complex, it is by far the best underground experience in the southwest. Poldark Mine hosts a variety of attractions from the mine itself to a museum, amusements and craft workshops. The complex is laid out with award-winning gardens and both young and old will find there is plenty here to keep them amused. St Wendrons Parish Church was built in approximately 1150, though it was heavily restored in Victorian times. The lychgate, which has a room above, dates from the 17th century. Nothing is known about the patron saint of the local church that gave her name to the parish.
GWEEK
3 miles E of Helston off the A394
Situated at the westernmost branch of the River Helford, Gweek was once an important
65 TREVARNO ESTATE AND GARDENS

Trevarno, nr Helston A magnificent collection of plants are set within formal, informal and woodland areas. On-going restoration projects and a museum add to an interesting day out. See entry on page 165
66 THE GWEEK INN

Helston Just minutes from the seal sanctuary this family friendly creek side inn offers delicious home cooking at affordable prices. See entry on page 166
91

commercial port that grew up after nearby Helston harbour became silted in the 13th century. The same fate befell Gweek many years later and today it is a picturesque village that has replaced its cargo vessels with small pleasure craft. However, the village has maintained links with its maritime past and the rejuvenated harbour now plays host to such delights as craft shops and small boatyards. Nestled in a tranquil setting, outside the village, the National Seal Sanctuary is a rehabilitation and release centre for the increasing number of injured seals being rescued from around Cornwall and beyond. Low key and functional, it provides an informative and fascinating insight into the lives of seals and the measures taken to care for them. Theres plenty of entertainment in watching the seals at play.
founding a monastery in Govan, now part of Glasgow, on his travels. He became Scotlands first martyr after AD598, when pirates cut off his right arm and let him bleed to death.
LIZARD PENINSULA
Area SE of Helston on the A3083
CONSTANTINE
4 miles E of Helston off the A394
St Constantine Parish Church dates mainly from the 15th century, apart from the chancel, which is Victorian. St Constantine was the son of King Patrenus of Cornwall who had a misspent youth until he turned to Christianity. Unreliable tradition, says he is the nephew of the famous King Arthur, to whom the latter bequeathed his crown when he was mortally wounded. Nonetheless, he travelled north and evangelised the Scots,
The Lizard Lifeboat Station
For a glimpse of Cornwalls stormier side, the cliffs, rugged coves and open heaths of the Lizard Peninsula from the Celtic lys ardh, or high point are hard to beat. The Lizard Peninsula is unique, standing alone in a very real sense, and designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Much of the coastline falls under the stewardship of the National Trust and the South West Coast Path winds around the peninsula providing beautiful scenery for walkers of all ages and ability. Historically a particularly hazardous stretch of coastline, the Lizard Peninsula has been the site of many maritime disasters and was also known as the Graveyard of Ships. It forms a natural obstacle to entry and exit of Falmouth and its naturally deep estuary. In 1721 the Royal Anne Galley, an oared frigate, was wrecked at Lizard Point. Of a crew of 185 only 3 survived; lost was Lord Belhaven who was en voyage to take up the Governorship of Barbados. The biggest rescue in the RNLIs 185-year history took place near Lizard Point, in 1907 when the ocean liner, SS Suevic, hit the Maenheere Reef - a belt of halfsubmerged rocks a mile off the Lizard. RNLI lifeboat volunteers from The Lizard, Cadgwith, Coverack and Porthleven rowed out, in strong gale and dense fog, repeatedly for 16 hours and rescued 456 passengers. Incredibly, not a single life was lost. Six silver RNLI medals were later awarded, two to Suevic crew-members. The Lizard is also known for its unique Serpentine rock, a green mineral that became fashionable in Victorian times when ornaments were, and still
92

are, made as souvenirs and objets dart. Several shops near Lizard Point sell souvenirs made from it, though at one time it was mined on a commercial scale.
HELFORD
6 miles E of Helston off the B3293
MAWGAN
The village is more properly called Mawganin-Meneage, as this part of the county, lying just north of The Lizard, is called Meneage, meaning monklands. Trelowarren House, in the village, is an impressive part-Tudor country mansion that has been the home of the Vyvyan family since 1427 and is still their home today. The mainly 16th century house, where the highlights are the exquisite plasterwork and medieval stained glass of the Rococo Chapel, is not open to the public but the grounds are open from February until the end of September. The house sits in 1,000 acres of woodland and there are several earthworks on the estate that date to the Iron Age. There is also a local craft centre and shop. One lovely waymarked walk through the estate leads to the Halliggye Fogou Fogou is a Cornish word meaning cave a series of strange Neolithic underground chambers the use of which is unknown. Today they are home to bats and spiders and are well worth a visit due to the sheer mystery. St Mawgan Parish Church is 15th century, but was sympathetically restored in Victorian times.
At the northeastern side of the Lizard Peninsular, the Helford River reveals a range of different faces along its length, from sheltered muddy creeks to its rocky, open mouth, all of which repay exploration on foot or by boat. On its south side, Frenchmans Creek, one of a splay of inlets running off the river, was the inspiration for Daphne du Mauriers novel of the same name, and her evocation of it still holds true: still and soundless, surrounded by the trees, hidden from the eyes of men. Hidden in yet another side creek is Helford village, this picture postcard village makes a good start for riverside walks and, from April until the end of September, is linked to Helford Passage by a ferry across the river. The series of deep tidal creeks in the area are rumoured to be the home of Morgawr, the legendary Sea Giant. The first recorded sighting of this sea serpent was in 1926 and, ever since there have been numerous other sightings of this hideous, hump-backed creature with stumpy horns. It is said to look like the Loch Ness Monster, and indeed some video footage recorded in 1999 by someone who formerly worked for the Natural History Museum reveals a creature that looks remarkably like Nessie. Although, until further proof comes to light, the only limits to Morgawrs true identity are the limits of your imagination.
ST ANTHONY
Fallen Tree, Trenchmans Creek
This small and remote hamlet, on the northern bank of the Gillan Creek, is little more than a cluster of old cottages and a church. Said to have been founded by shipwrecked Norman sailors grateful that they had reached dry land, the Church of St Anthony does, in some ways, verify this claim as it is built of a stone that is not found in Cornwall but in Normandy.
93

A path from the church leads to Dennis Head Dennis is a corruption of the Cornish dinas, meaning a fort, so a Celtic fort or settlement may have stood here at one time from which there are views across Falmouth Bay to St Anthony Head. The hamlet has its own small beach of sand and shingle that is also used by sailing boats and sailboarders. St Anthonys Parish Church is mainly 15th century, though a Norman church preceded it. According to legend, it was built by Normans who had been blown off course crossing over from France and landed up in the local creek.
ST KEVERNE
9 miles SE of Helston on the B3293
This pleasant inland village, set around a handsome square, is something of a focal point for this part of the Lizard Peninsula as it has all the main shops and facilities. Because of St Kevernes elevated position, on a high plateau, many sailors used the spire of St Kevernes Parish Church as a landmark to try and avoid The Manacles, but it couldnt always guarantee their safety. The Manacles, just off the Lizard, with its submerged rocks has caught out even the most salty of sea dog. The name comes from the Cornish maen eglos, meaning church rocks. In the churchyard are some 400 graves of those who have fallen victim to the dangerous reef and, as well as a stone marking the graves of nearly 200 emigrants who drowned in 1855 on their way to Canada in The John, there is a large granite cross marking the mass grave of the 106 passengers and crew who lost their lives when The Mohegan foundered on the rocks in 1898. The Manacles are now very popular with divers due to the various shipwrecks. Porthkerris Cove, near St Keverne, is a dive site with easy access to the Manacles and there is a first class diving centre in the cove, which offers a full range of services including: air, nitrox, a dive shop, charter boats and a cafe. The church, once voted the Best Church to Visit in Britain, dates mainly from the 15th century and earlier, though the spire was rebuilt in 1770 after being struck by lightning. It is thought that a church of some
kind has stood here since about AD600, when Celtic monks settled in the area. Two Cornish rebellions, one in 1497 the other in 1547, have their roots in St Keverne. A statue commemorates the 500th anniversary of the Cornish Rebellion of 1497 and, back in the church, is a plaque in memory of the executed rebel leaders. At the head of the rebellion was Michael Joseph, the village blacksmith, protesting against the punitive taxes levied by Henry VII. The uprising was routed on its march to London and Joseph and the other protagonists were subsequently,hanged, drawn and quartered. Less than a mile south of St Keverne, Roskillys Ice Cream and Organic Farm produces some of Cornwalls best ice creams, available in 50-odd flavours. There is plenty to see and do here from watching daily milking to close-up encounters with cows, calves, donkeys, hens and ducks, along with learning about the farms history.
PORTHALLOW
10 miles SE of Helston off the B3293
Known locally as Pralla, this small fishing village was once renowned for its pilchards, and one of the biggest events of the year is the Fishing Festival, usually held in June or July. The biggest is the Beach Party on the third Wednesday in August, with gig racing, live music, a barbecue, bonfire and fireworks. There are some excellent walks around Porthallow, giving wonderful views out across Falmouth bay. At Nare Point, north of the village, is an abandoned observation point for a torpedo range that operated here until 1994.
67 THE FIVE PILCHARDS INN

Porthallow This charming nautical themed inn is the halfway marker for the south-west coastal path and opens its doors right onto the beach. See entry on page 165
94

Coverack Harbour
GOONHILLY DOWNS
5 miles SE of Helston off the B3293
Just outside Goonhilly Downs, theres a standing stone called a Menhir, which has been there for more than 5,000 years. It is thought to have been erected to aid communication with the heavenly gods. Goonhilly was once the worlds largest earth station with over 60 dishes pointing into space and was responsible for sending and receiving millions of telephone calls, TV pictures, faxes and internet connections around the globe; it was also the first earth station to receive live TV images from America and broadcast Live Aid back in 1985, which became the most watched TV show in history. Some of these iconic satellite dishes have been removed, and the site has now been set aside to be redeveloped for use at the forefront of world-leading radio astronomy projects and space network communications. There are also plans to open a new Visitors Centre as an exciting space-themed attraction.
POLTESCO COVERACK
10 miles SE of Helston on the B3294 8 miles SE of Helston off the A3083
The name Coverack itself means hidden cove. This untamed fishing village has been around since at least AD995, and the small harbour wall was built in 1724. There is a rich and fascinating history attached to this quaint and peaceful village, once the haunt of smugglers; Coverack was, for many years, home to an RNLI station because of its proximity to The Manacles. At many points in its existence, ocean liners and ships of every shape and size have run aground on the sharp rocks that make up the cliffs around the town. The Coverack lifeboat participated in the biggest rescue in the RNLIs history, rescuing hundreds of men, women and children from the SS Suevic. Coverack has a large crescent shaped beach in the sheltered bay that is ideal for swimming and windsurfing.
Just a few minutes walk from this pretty National Trust owned village lies Carleon Cove, which is now a deserted rocky cove with a few ruined remains of what was once a busy pilchard fishery and cellar.
CADGWITH
9 miles SE of Helston off the A3083
This minuscule and very picturesque fishing village, with its cluster of pastel coloured
68 THE HAVEN BED AND BREAKFAST

Ruan Minor Occupying an enviable location on the stunning coastline of the Lizard Peninsula, this thatched cottage offers excellent bed and breakfast accommodation. See entry on page 168
95
96
thatched cottages and two shingle beaches is, perhaps everyones idea of the typical Cornish village. However, in the 19th century this was a busy pilchard fishing centre and it is recorded that in 1904 the fleet from Cadgwith landed a record 1,798,000 pilchards over just four days. Lobster and crab fishing is still carried on, albeit on a small scale, and the boats can still be seen drawn up onto the beach. Separating the main cove here The Lizard Wireless Station from Little Cove is The Todden, a grass covered mushroom of land. A ingredients: sliced onion, potato, turnip and little further south along the coast path is chopped beef skirt wrapped in a firm but the Devils Frying Pan, a collapsed sea cave light pastry case with crimped ends to keep it that is filled with water at high tide. There is some good diving to be had with several all together. The pasty has connections with the mining industry, when miners relied on well-known ship wrecks located nearby. the fact that a pasty stays warm for over an LIZARD hour, but Ann reckons its a myth that the 10 miles SE of Helston on the A3083 crimped edge was created as a disposable handle for miners. The most southerly village in mainland In past centuries the Lizard was at the Britain, and the only one south of the 50th centre of Cornwalls smuggling industry, and parallel, Lizard is a place of craft shops, the area is crammed with tales of Cornish cafes and art galleries all clustered around free-traders sneaking barrels of liquor and the village green. Following a visit to contraband goods under the noses of Cornwall by Queen Victoria in the 19th government Preventive boats. Some century, when she ordered many items made smugglers even became local legends the from Serpentine stone for her new house on most notorious was John Carter, the so-called the Isle of Wight, Osborne, this richly King of Prussia, after whom Prussia Cove near coloured green stone has been popular and Rosudgeon is named. Lizard is a centre for its polishing and To the south of the village lies Lizard fashioning into ornaments. Point, whose three sides of high cliffs are A staple diet for Cornish dwellers for lashed by the waves whatever the season. centuries, Ann Muller has been making Here, stands the Lizard Lighthouse. There pasties for over 20 years from her little shop has been a form of lighthouse on Lizard Point in the Lizard. Following in her mums since the early 17th century. The present footsteps, Ann swears by the core twin-towered lighthouse, which provides a welcoming landfall light to vessels crossing the Atlantic Ocean, was built in 1751 despite 69 THE TOP HOUSE INN protests from the locals fearing that they The Lizard would lose a regular source of income from Englands most southerly looting ships wrecked around the point. Inn, with great rooms, a wonderful location, Another feature are the twin horns of the fog extensive Menu, and horn, which still boom out over the waters Award Winning Real Ales. once every 30 seconds when the weather is See entry on page 167 bad. In 2008 a Lottery heritage fund was granted to modernise and rebuild the Lizard

Lighthouse Heritage Centre. The improved facility opened in spring 2009 and offers visitors information about the structural, technical and social history of Lizard Lighthouse and the associated southwestern offshore Rock Lighthouses, using interactive and audio-visual displays. The Lizard also played an important role in the history of modern communications. At nearby Bass Point, The Lizard Wireless Station is the oldest surviving wireless station in the world, built by Marconi in 1900/1.
Kynance Cove
MULLION COVE
6 miles S of Helston on the B3296
KYNANCE COVE
9 miles S of Helston off the A3083
A famed beauty spot, now owned by the National Trust, Kynance Cove has a marvellous sandy beach and dramatic offshore rock formations. The name Kynance comes from the Cornish word kynans, meaning a deep ravine, and the place has been occupied since at least the Bronze Age. This was a favourite destination with wealthy Victorians, including Tennyson, and after a visit here by Prince Albert and his children in 1846, one of the giant rocks on the beach became known as Albert Rock. Out to sea is Asparagus Island, where, at one time, wild asparagus grew. The cove is also the site of the largest outcrop of serpentine rock, the rock unique to the Lizard that is dark, mottled and veined with green, red and white. The caves to the west of the cove can be explored around low tide and these include the Devils Bellows, a cave that, at high tide, becomes a dramatic blowhole. On Rill Point is an old coastguard lookout post, from where in 1588 watchers spotted the Spanish Armada several miles offshore. The fleet of 130 galleons announced its imminent arrival with a mass broadside fire, but, alerted by beacons and runners, the English fleet under Sir Francis Drake was waiting.
The inland village of Mullion is the largest settlement on the Lizard Peninsula and an ideal base from which to explore this remarkable part of the county. Here, a triangle of quiet roads encloses the 15th century St Mallenus Parish Church, dedicated to the French saint Malo (or Mellane of Rennes). The short tower is partly constructed of serpentine rock, and the interior has some interestingly carved bench ends - one of them depicts Jonah in the belly of the whale. Look out, too, for the dog door in the south door that was used by sheepdogs who were allowed to attend church with their masters but who were made to leave if they became unruly. Inland are the remains of the Wheal Unity copper mine, which closed in 1919. A large boulder containing copper was dug out of the mine and given to the Natural History Museum in London. West of the village of Mullion Cove, there
70 COLVENNOR FARMHOUSE B&B

Cury, nr Mullion Peaceful and private location with far-reaching rural views. Traditional farmhouse breakfasts using only fresh local produce. See entry on page 168
97

are a few ancient buildings and thick walls of serpentine that overlook the little harbour of Mullion Cove also known as Porthmellion where a handful of fishing boats bob about on the water. The cove had a lifeboat station from 1867 to 1909, and with good reason: in the six years up to 1873 there were nine wrecks under Mullion cliffs along a mile-anda-half stretch of coastline. Much of the land surrounding this secluded cove of white sand, as well as the harbour and offshore Mullion Island, is owned by the National Trust and the views from here extend westwards, across Mounts Bay, to Penzance and Newlyn. The island is home to colonies of sea birds, including fulmars, guillemots and kittiwakes.
POLDHU POINT
treasure abound. In 1526 a treasure ship belonging to the King of Portugal sank off Church Cove. Many attempts were made to recover the booty on board, but no one ever succeeded. In 1785 a ship carrying a consignment of gold coins ran aground, making this place still popular with treasure hunters who comb the sands with metal detectors hoping to unearth more coins from the two ships. The 15th century St Winwaloes Parish Church is dedicated to the Breton missionary St Winwaloe, and lies protected in the sand dunes behind the rounded cliffs of Castle Mound, with the sea pounding away outside (the church is often called the Church of the Storms). Its bell tower was, unusually, built separately right into the rock.
PORTHLEVEN
2 miles SW of Helston on the B3304
Wireless station history fans will certainly be familiar with the importance of the Lizard. The Marconi Monument, a small granite obelisk, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean on the site that on December 12, 1901, played host to the transmission that paved the way for long-distance communication. Guglielmo Marconi himself stayed in Poldhu in 1900, and built one of the largest wireless stations in the world, the pylons and aerials of which survived until 1937. His Morse signal, the letter s repeated three times, was received in St Johns, Newfoundland, quelling the doubts of the many who said that radio waves could not bend round the earths curvature. On the site of his station stands the Marconi Centre, a purpose-built exhibition centre and HQ of the Poldhu Amateur Radio Club.
This pleasant fishing town, the most southerly port in mainland Britain, first came into prominence in 1811, when work began on the construction of a harbour in the sweep of Mounts Bay. This was to meet the demand for coal and supplies for the mines and to provide a refuge for the growing fishing fleet, which reached 100 boats at one time. Trade steadily increased, so from the 1850s a boat-
71 HALZEPHRON HERB FARM

Porthleven Herb farm using organic Cornish herbs and other natural ingredients to create a unique range of marinades, sauces, mayos, dips, dressings, seeds and preserves. See entry on page 168
GUNWALLOE
Gunwalloe is a tiny fishing hamlet with a charming cove, and 76 wrecks littered along its coast between 1526 and 1931. This place is one of the unsung delights of Cornwall, and though not well known by visitors, is a favourite Sunday haunt for locals out walking, even on a winters day. Local stories of smuggling, looted wrecks and buried
72 KOTA RESTAURANT AND ROOMS

Porthleven One of the most renowned restaurants in the South West. With an extensive wine list and B&B rooms. See entry on page 169
98
BREAGE
4 miles W of Helston off the A394

99
Pronounced to rhyme with Haig, Breage is renowned above all for the 15th century wall paintings in its St Breaca Parish Church. The building too dates from the same time and this remarkable set of murals, which feature such subjects as St Christopher and Christ blessing the trades, lay beneath a layer of whitewash until the Porthleven Harbour 1890s. They are thought to be the work of monks who building industry developed, and up until the travelled the country decorating churches in 1970s clippers, schooners, trawlers and this way as a form of religious education. yachts were launched from the slipway. The Somehow they have survived being painted fishing industry also expanded rapidly, and on over countless times since the Reformation. a single day in 1834 2,000 54-gallon barrels In the north aisle there is a rare Roman of pilchards were landed. milestone from the 3rd century AD that Boats still fish from the harbour, mainly provides evidence that the Roman occupiers now for crab, lobster and crayfish. A number extracted tin here for their own use. of the small towns old industrial premises The whole area surrounding the village have been converted into handsome craft became one of the richest mining districts in galleries, restaurants and shops and the Cornwall. Tregonning Hill, nearby, was where charming old harbour is overlooked by an William Cookworthy discovered china clay in assortment of attractive residential terraces the mid-1740s. and fishermens cottages. One street is PRAA SANDS named after Guy Gibson, wartime commander of 617 Squadron, the Dam Busters. He visited 6 miles W of Helston off the A394 the town on holiday with his parents. At first glance, Praa Sands would seem to be Near Porthleven is the Penrose Estate, a collection of 20th century buildings close to owned by the National Trust. It is also the sea, however there is more to the possible to walk along the beach to Loe Bar, village. Pengersick Castle dates back to the when the tide is out, although care must be Bronze Age and is to be found a quarter of a taken not to get stranded by the fast mile from the modern centre of the village. incoming tides. Now owned by the Pengersick Historic and SITHNEY Education Trust, the castle is undergoing a major programme of renovation and is 2 miles W of Helston off the A394 expected to open again to the public in 2012. This small village, no more than St Sidinius Two headlands and high dunes enclose the Parish Church (consecrated in 1497 and mile-long crescent of sand that have helped having a 67-feet tower) and a few cottages, to build Praa Sands reputation as one of the has one unique feature - the Sithney finest family beaches in Cornwall. An ideal Treacle Mine. This miniature folly, sited in place for bathing and surfing, the beach here the small patch of village green, raises many never gets too crowded and the village a smile when people passing through the provides a variety of accommodation that is village see it. suitable for a small family resort.
GERMOE
7 miles W of Helston off the A394
This small rural village is home to St Germoes Parish Church. St Germoe, or St Germochus, was an Irish king and missionary who was the brother of St Breaca. Dating from the 12th century, the present church contains a remarkable Celtic font that is carved with a mysterious human head. In the porch are strange carvings of long-tailed monkeys, which were said to ward off evil. Built into the churchyard wall is St Germoes Chair, a curious covered seat. Some believe that St Germoe lies buried beneath it; however, the chair has been dated to Norman times.
ROSUDGEON
7 miles W of Helston on the A394
A narrow, winding lane from the village leads to Prussia Cove (originally Portleah), a clifftop settlement that was named after a notorious 18th century smuggler, John Carter, who styled himself on Frederick the Great of Prussia. One story surrounding this unsavoury man tells how he used a cannon mounted on the cliffs to scare off revenue officers. In 1825 the building of a Coastguard Station here finally put an end to smuggling in Prussia Cove. Although John Carters cottage was demolished in 1906, the cove still holds the romance of its notorious connections with wrecking and smuggling. The smugglers wheel tracks can still be seen in the steep stone slipway leading up from the waters edge.
The original settlement of St Ives took its name from the 6th century missionary, St Ia, who is said to have landed here having sailed from Ireland on an ivy leaf. Her Feast Day is celebrated every year with the Hurling the Silver Ball, which should be held on the first Monday of February. It is a rugby-style game, traditionally played between local Upalongers and Downalongers. The mayor throws the ball from the church wall in the middle of the morning; it is then thrown from person to person, through the streets and down to the beach, until noon when the person holding it receives a small prize. The 15th century St Ias Parish Church, near the harbour, bears her name, along with those of the two fishermen Apostles St Peter and St Andrew. The 80-feet tower is built of granite brought by sea from quarries at Zennor, a few miles south. Nearby on St Ives Head, stands another ecclesiastical building, the mariners Chapel of St Nicholas and there are inspiring views across St Ives Bay. Known locally as The Island, St Ives Head was also the spot from where a lookout would scan the sea looking for shoals of pilchards. One of the most important pilchard fishing centres in Cornwall, until the industry declined in the early 20th century, St Ives holds a record dating back to 1868 for the greatest number of fish caught in a single
73 CAF MUNDO BAR

St Ives Friendly relaxed atmosphere, delicious home made food, daily specials and ORIGIN coffee served by trained Baristas. See entry on page 170
ST IVES
With broad sand beaches, a picturesque harbour and the modern architecture of the Tate, St Ives is in an altogether different category from the granite villages and jagged cliffs that characterise most of west Cornwall. St Ives dual fishing and artistic legacies are continued today in the numerous galleries, jammed into its narrow alleys, and in the daily landing of fishing catches on Smeatons Pier.
74
St Ives
abode b&b
A marvellous bed and breakfast with welcoming hosts, comfortable beds and a hearty breakfast offering a fantastic way to start the day. See entry on page 171
100

seine net. On catch days, the streets of St Ives would reek of the smell of pilchard oil; the diarist Francis Kilvert was told by the local vicar that the smell was sometimes so great as to stop the church clock! A local specialty, called Hevva Cake but now usually called Heavy Cake, is a sweet loaf decorated with a criss-cross pattern resembling a fishing net (so called because the Cornish word for a shoal of fish is hevva), which was traditionally made for the seiners on their return from fishing. As well as providing shelter for the fishing fleet, St Ives harbour was developed for exporting locally mined ores and minerals, and the sturdy main pier was built by John Smeaton, the 18th century marine architect who was responsible for designing the famous Eddystone Lighthouse. The towns two industries led to the labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways to become divided into two communities: Downalong, where the fishing families lived, and Upalong, a district of mining families. In fact, St Ives Museum is housed in a building belonging to an old mine and here can be seen a wide range of artefacts that chronicle the natural, industrial and maritime history of the area. There is also a display dedicated to the exploits of one of the towns most colourful people, John Knill. Mayor of the town in 1767 and a customs officer by profession, it was widely rumoured that Knill was an energetic smuggler himself and that the tall monument he built to the south of the town, now known as the Knill Steeple, supposedly as his mausoleum, served to guide ships carrying contraband safely to the shore. Though buried in London, Knill left a bequest to the town so that every five
Tate St Ives
years, on July 25, they could hold a ceremony in his honour; a procession, led by a fiddler, two widows and ten young ladies or children from fishing and mining families, dances its way from the town centre to his monument to sing the 100th Psalm. The first such ceremony took place in 1801, and John himself took part as he didnt die until 1811. The 40 acres of open space around the monument is Steeple Woodland Nature Reserve, where visitors can explore the woods and stroll over the heathland. As both the fishing and mining industries declined in the late 19th century, St Ives developed as an artists colony. Since the 1880s, the town has attracted many diverse painters, brought here by the breathtaking scenery and special quality of the light, and they have included such talents as Ben Nicholson, Barbara Hepworth, Naum Gabo
75 ANCHORAGE B&B
St Ives Find comfort and character in this Grade II listed B&B, delightfully situated in the heart of the old artists and fishermens quarter. See entry on page 172
76 BLUE HAYES PRIVATE HOTEL

St Ives With 5 real ales served and a fantastic beer festival annually, this free house is one to enjoy all year round. See entry on page 173
101

and the potter Bernard Leach. Many of the old pilchard cellars and sail lofts were converted into workshops, studios and galleries. Whatever your knowledge of art, the galleries in St Ives will evoke your senses. The best-known gallery is the Tate St Ives, which is worth a visit for its architecture and spectacular beachfront location alone. The seaside sounds are a constant presence inside the airy white building, creating a lively soundtrack to the paintings, sculptures and ceramics, most of which date from the period 1925 to 1975, and many inspired by St Ives itself. The Tate gallery has succeeded in a way that could not have been foreseen; with the opening of the national maritime museum in Falmouth and before that the Eden Project, St Ives is now part of what has become known as the golden triangle of top attractions in Cornwall. Allied to Tate St Ives is the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden at Trewyn Studio on Barnoon Hill. One of the foremost nonfigurative sculptors of her time,
Barbara Hepworth Sculpture Garden
Hepworth lived and worked here until her death, in a fire, in 1975. The Sculpture Garden is a haven of peace, and a visit here is most rewarding, particularly on busy days in the town. Most of St Ives private galleries are small, and their contents can usually be glimpsed from outside, but most welcome visitors. The St Ives Society of Artists Gallery is a bigger affair, occupying the Old Mariners Church as it has done since 1945. The Societys exhibition programmes feature work chosen by guest curators, and invited exhibitions that are a diverse mix of contemporary visual art. St Ives also holds a major arts and music festival each September, which runs over two weeks and has an eclectic brief, featuring a range of music, poetry and theatre. Located at Higher Stennack on the upper outskirts of St Ives, Leach Pottery is an interesting heritage museum founded in 1920 by Bernard Leach and Shoji Hamada. The pottery is considered to be the birthplace of British studio pottery where potters, students and apprentices have come to train from across the world. A new museum has been created on site as a living tribute to Bernard Leach, who played a crucial pioneering role in creating an identity for artist potters across the world. The purpose-built studio houses exhibition, gallery space and workshop space. However, it is not only artists who have been inspired by the beauty of St Ives and the surrounding area. Virginia Woolf, who spent every summer here to the age of, 12 described St Ives as a windy, noisy, fishy, vociferous, narrow-streeted town; the colour of a mussel or a limpet; like a bunch of rough shell fish clustered on a grey wall altogether. Said to be the happiest time of her life, she recaptures the mood of those days in her novel To the Lighthouse. The beaches of St Ives are its crowning glories. Magnificent Porthmeor Beach on the towns western edge is famous for powerful surf, yet is ideal for non-surfers of all ages. The more sheltered Porthminster Beach on the towns eastern edge has perfect conditions for family groups.
102
AROUND ST IVES
CARBIS BAY
1 mile SE of St Ives off the A3074
The sheltered beach here is ideal for families as it is safe for children and there are various watersports available. Easy to reach on foot from St Ives, there is a footpath along the cliffs; at low tide the more adventurous may like to walk along the exposed sands to Lelant. In the 19th century, the famous Providence copper and tin mines employed hundreds of men, women and children.
across land and ending at Marazion on the south, opposite St Michaels Mount. There is a literary association with this village; Lelant was birthplace of the famous romantic novelist Rosamunde Pilcher. Pilcher got her start in 1949 as an author of Mills and Boon romances, under the name Jane Fraser. She published 10 novels using that pen-name. Two of her books, The Day of the Storm and The Shell Seekers, both have Cornish settings.
GWITHIAN
4 miles E of St Ives on the B3301
LELANT
2 miles SE of St Ives on the A3074
A thriving seaport in the Middle Ages, until the silting up of the Hayle estuary caused traffic through here to divert to St Ives, Lelant is now a popular holiday village with a golf course and a scenic rail link to St Ives. Though little remains from the heyday of the port here, St Unys Parish Church, which overlooks the golf course, dates from the 15th century and it is dedicated to a Celtic saint said to be the brother of St Ia. Its graveyard contains some fine examples of granite Cornish crosses and from here walkers start the 13-mile trek to St Michaels Mount in Mounts Bay, known as the St Michaels Way. This ancient pilgrimage route follows the coast path to Carbis Bay, before cutting
This ancient village of thatched cottages and houses, surrounded by sand dunes to the south of Godrevy Point, remains unspoilt. The high dunes, known as The Towans, back the long stretch of sandy beach that forms the eastern side of St Ives Bay and they have numerous footpaths running through them that provide perfect picnic areas. A sizeable prehistoric settlement is said to lie buried beneath the Towans, along with a 7th century oratory founded by the Irish missionary, St Gothian.
GODOLPHIN CROSS
8 miles SE of St Ives off the B3302
Gwithian Beach
Half-hidden in a valley on the Hayle to Helston road, Godolphin Cross derived its name from the cross roads which were encountered en route to the estate of the Godolphin family a prominent Cornish family who made their fortune through mining. The earliest sites associated with both tin and copper mining lie on the 550-acre Godolphin Estate, acquired by the National Trust in 1999. Money from these minerals built the house. Godolphin House, is an exceptional part Tudor, part Stuart house that still retains its original Elizabethan stables. The house is noted for its splendid Kings Room, fine Jacobean fireplaces and the unique north front, which was completed shortly after the Civil War and incorporates an impressive granite colonnade. The Entrance
103

Hall has a fine 16th century chimney piece, and hung in the Dining Room is a painting by John Wootton of the famous Godolphin Arabian, one of the three stallions from which all British thoroughbreds are descended. The present house was preceded by a small castle, built around 1300 by Sir Alexander Godolghan. Outside, the gardens still retain traces of their original ancient raised walks and the carp ponds.
HAYLE
3 miles SE of St Ives on the B3302
Hayle is blessed with the dual attraction of a 3-mile long glorious golden beach and a remarkable industrial heritage. Established in the 18th century, Hayle town is divided into two districts, Copperhouse and Foundry. Both these names reflect Hayles industrial heritage as a place where copper was smelted and foundries made industrial machinery. Iron worked in the foundries went to make Londons Tower Bridge. These industries have now largely gone, but Hayle still has its harbour, from which a small fishing fleet operates. The famous three miles of golden sand that constitute Hayle beach, attract thousands of holidaymakers every year. At the far end is the magical Godrevy Island, which was immortalised by Virginia Woolf in her novel To the Lighthouse. Elizabeth Arden hails from these parts she was the first person to introduce eye makeup and the concept of a salon makeover to North America as does the great Cornish inventor, Richard Trevithick. It was here, in the early 1800s, which he built an early version of the steam locomotive and, not long afterwards, one of the first railways in the world was constructed to carry tin and
copper to the town from Redruth and the mines in between. At the height of the foundry industry in Hayle, in the 19th century, steam powered engines built by the famous company, Harveys of Hayle, were being used in the majority of Cornwalls mines and beyond. On the southern outskirts of the town is Paradise Park, an award-winning wildlife park that is home to some of the worlds rare and most beautiful parrots and other birds, as well as various other animals such as otters, red squirrels and red pandas. The park is set around a Victorian walled garden, and features tropical plants which thrive in Cornwalls mild climate.
PERRANUTHNOE
7 miles S of St Ives off the A394
77 ANGARRACK INN
Angarrack, nr Hayle Traditional village pub offering homecooked food, a well stocked bar and a warm, friendly welcome to all. See entry on page 174
Perranuthnoe is a charming little village that is often overlooked. The name is derived from the saints name, Piran, patron saint of Cornwall, plus the name of the local manor, Uthno. The Parish Church of St Piran was originally erected in the 13th century, with an aisle being added in Tudor times. It was restored in 1883. The villages pub, the Victoria Inn, is reckoned to be the oldest in Cornwall, and was even mentioned in the Domesday Book. The Perranuthnoe craft centre houses Village Crafts and Cornish Wools, well worth a visit to see more than 60 local artists, crafts people and musicians at work, and they produce their own wool from local rarebreed sheep and alpacas. The extensive range of handmade crafts, jewellery, clothing, cards, prints and gifts are available to purchase. From the village a steep flight of steps lead down to Perran Sands, a sandy beach that is one of the safest in the area for bathing. Overlooking Mounts Bay, to the southeast, the cliffs lead to the jagged Cudden Point, where many ships have foundered, and which is now owned by the National Trust. Like so much of Cornwall, this was once a mining area, and long disused mines and shafts dot the local fields. There was copper
104

here and silver but it was never very profitable. Perranuthnoes worst day was in 1861 when the boiler at Wheal Charlotte exploded killing many men. Locals say you can still hear their cries to this day in the rare moments when the wind and the waves arent pounding the shore too loudly.
St Michaels Mount
GOLDSITHNEY
Every part of Cornwall seems to have a legend or a piece of folklore attached to it. And the beautiful village of Goldsithney is no exception. A legend tells of a wrestling match in which the prize was a glove and, as well as the glove, the village from which the winning team came was allowed to collect all the market dues. Sithney won it year after year, until the wrestlers of Goldsithney, who refused to give up the right to hold the fair each year, won it. The villages unusual name is thought to come from the fact that the fair was moved here in 1283 from nearby Sithney. The fair is held each year at the beginning of August.
MARAZION
A port as long ago as the Bronze Age and for many centuries the most important settlement around Mounts Bay, Marazion is one of Cornwalls oldest chartered towns (the first charter was granted by Henry III in 1257 and reaffirmed in 1595 by Queen Elizabeth I). Its long history, through which the port continued to prosper with the export trade in
tin and copper, has left a legacy of fine old inns and residential houses which overlook the fine expanse of sandy beach. Marazion Town Museum is housed in the town hall in the small Market Square, in what was once the fire brigade HQ and a jail. A typical cell of the period has been reconstructed within it. Another house in the square was where Charles II hid after his defeat at the Battle of Naseby in 1646. To the northwest of the town is Marazion Marsh, an extensive area of wetland and reed beds behind Marazion Beach on the Penzance road, where theres an RSPB reserve. Over 450 plant species have been recorded here, and the area is home to many nesting and roosting birds, including herons, reed and sedge warblers, and Cettis warbler. Guided tours with an RSPB warden are available from May until September each year. The beach, long favoured for its sunny aspect and safe bathing, is also a well-known windsurfing venue and the location of national and international surfing and sailing
78 MOUNT HAVEN HOTEL AND RESTAURANT

Marazion An outstanding boutique hotel offering the best in all facilities combined with stunning views over Mounts Bay. See entry on page 174
79 THE WHITE HART

Churchtown This vibrant yet historic 13th century village inn is known for its community spirit and fine fusion of traditional and contemporary British food. See entry on page 175
105

championships. Chapel Rock, on the beach, used to have a small chapel on it dedicated to the Virgin Mary, where pilgrims would stop to pray before continuing on to St Michaels Mount in Mounts Bay. The jewel in Cornwalls crown, the grandeur and wealth of history of St Michaels Mount, with its fairytale castle, ancient harbour and church, make it a unique attraction in Britain. Situated just 400 yards offshore, access from Marazion is by foot along the cobbled causeway, or by ferry at high water. Dominating Mounts Bay, this remarkable slate and granite outcrop rises majestically almost 230 feet from sea level to the tower, chapel and battlement of the castle. The marvellous St Michaels Mount Castle shows differing architectural styles from the 17th century through to the 19th. The house contains some impressive medieval remains, including the Chevy Chase Room, which was the original monks refectory, and there are other interesting details here such as the Strawberry Hill Gothic plaster work in the 18th century Blue Drawing Room, the artefacts in the Map and Museum Rooms and paintings and portraits by such artists as the Cornishman John Opie. A vision of the Archangel St Michael to some local fishermen in the 5th century led to the construction of a church here. A place of pilgrimage for centuries, it was Edward the Confessor who, in 1044, founded a priory on the mount. It was Robert Mortian, Earl of Cornwall and William the Conquerers halfbrother, who gave the priory to the Benedictine monks of the famous Mont St Michel in Normandy. The monastery was fortified after the Dissolution in 1539 and in 1660 it became the home of the St Aubyn family, who donated it to the National Trust in 1964. The present Chapel of St Michael is 15th century, and has a small tower which was used to guide ships in and out of local ports. The steep sided islet has been inhabited since prehistoric times and its Cornish name, Carrick luz en cuz (meaning the ancient rock in the wood), suggests that, at one time, the coastline here was covered in trees. Indeed, the fossilized remains of a
forest that once covered the land can be seen at low tide. St Michaels Mount is also not far from the legendary lost land of Lyonesse. The Mount was also the legendary abode of the giants Cormoran and his wife Cormelian. Jack the Giant killer eventually defeated Cormoran, after the giant terrorised the surrounding lands.
ZENNOR
4 miles W of St Ives on the B3306
The village of Zennor lies above the high, rocky cliffs of the coast and the rugged, boulder-strewn, granite hills and moors. In this ancient community, where evidence has been found of Bronze Age settlers, the 12th century St Senaras Parish Church is famous for a bench end that depicts a mermaid holding a comb and mirror and resembling the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite. The carving relates to a local legend according to which a mermaid lured a handsome chorister, the squires son Matthew Trewhella, to the sea, from which he never returned. Her name, it is said, was Morveren. An enchanting singer herself, on a warm summers evening it is said that their voices can be heard rising from beneath the waves. On the left of the church doorway, is a memorial to John Davey, who died in 1898 stating that he was the last person to have any great knowledge of the native Cornish language, Kernewek. Behind the church is a stone where it is said that the Giant of Zennor would sit. He was not a typical Cornish giant as he was fond of people and liked their company. One day he patted a human on the head in a friendly way but inadvertently fractured the poor mans skull. The giant was so full of remorse that he died
80 WAYSIDE FOLK MUSEUM

Zennor Numerous photos and artefacts illustrate the lives of the local people. See entry on page 175
106

of a broken heart soon afterwards. For an insight into the history of Zennor and the surrounding area, the Wayside Folk Museum is the oldest private museum in Cornwall covering every aspect of the regions past from 3,000 BC to the 1930s. The museum houses a collection of over 5,000 items covering local mining and quarrying, agriculture, archaeology and domestic history. In the delightful grounds are two waterwheels from the mining industry and a collection of corn-grinding querns and stone tools dating as far back as 3,000 BC. The people of Zennor exhibition details the lives of many who lived in the area, including DH Lawrence. Though the village retains no trace of Lawrences presence today, you might invoke his memory in the Tinners Arms (built in 1271). It was at this pub that DH Lawrence spent many hours while living with his wife Frieda in the village during World War I. His enthusiasm for the village was gradually eroded by the hostility of the local constabulary and the residents, who were suspicious of a controversial writer living with a German wife so close to the coast. The couple spent a year and a half in Zennor and while here, under police surveillance, he wrote Women in Love. Behind the Tinners Arms, next to the church, a fairly level path leads less than a mile northwest to the sea at Zennor Head, where there is some awe-inspiring cliff scenery above the sandy Pendour Cove (the
fabled home of Zennors mermaid). In the opposite direction, just to the southeast of Zennor on the granite moorland, lies the Neolithic chamber tomb, Zennor Quoit. Thought to be some 4,500 years old, the tomb has a huge capstone that was once supported on five broad uprights, with two standing stones marking the entrance to the inner chamber. Another such ancient monument to be found in this area is Mulfra Quoit, 2 miles to the southeast of the village. The whole thing has partially collapsed, with the 5-ton capstone lying against the uprights at an angle.
PENZANCE
Perched dramatically above Mounts Bay, Penzance comes from the Cornish pen sans, meaning holy headland, as an ancient chapel dedicated to St Mary used to stand on the headland to the west of the present harbour. For centuries, it was a remote market town which made its living from fishing, mining and smuggling. Today, it is has all the trappings of the holiday industry due to the rail link to London which was established in the 1860s. Along with nearby Newlyn and Mousehole, most traces of the medieval town were obliterated in 1595 by a Spanish raiding party, including the ancient chapel. The predominant style now is Regency and Victorian, and Penzance is home to Cornwalls only promenade, which stretches to Newlyn. The towns main function, besides being a tourist centre, is costal defence. This is a place of great vitality and originality with much of interest to see and do. The Penzance Town Trail takes visitors on a circular route that winds through the town, tracing its story through buildings and historical remains, statues and medieval crosses, churches, chapels, gardens and shops. There is a guidebook which View West from Zennor Head describes the 16 waymarkers.
107

The Penzance Town Trail Guidebook is available from Penzance Town Council Offices, Penlee House Museum and Gallery and some local shops. If you are short on time, many of the towns most interesting buildings can be found on Chapel Street, which leads down from the domed Market House, built in 1836, to the quay. Outside the Market House is a statue to Penzances most famous son, Sir Humphry Davy (1778-1829), considered to be one of the greatest British chemists. Davy discovered six new elements including potassium and sodium, discovered the use of nitrous oxide (laughing gas), and played a large part in the local mining community when he invented the miners safety lamp, which bears his name and which can be seen on the statue. One of the more exotic buildings along this narrow thoroughfare is the Egyptian House, built in the 1830s and restored by the Landmark Trust. It is an amazing confection of paned windows, painted walls and elaborate mouldings. Behind the Georgian facade of The Union Hotel opposite is an impressive Elizabethan interior where, from a minstrels gallery in the assembly room, the first mainland announcement of the victory of Trafalgar and the death of Lord Nelson was made.
Egyptian House, Penzance
83 THE HONEY POT

Penzance Delicious home cooking is combined here with friendly and knowledgeable service making any trip to this charming cafe a good one. See entry on page 178
81 WAVES CAF BAR

Penzance See for yourself why Waves has been awarded a gold Chefs award for promoting healthy eating. See entry on page 176
84 NUMBER NINE
Penzance A unique bed and breakfast offering extremely comfortable accommodation in a lovely Georgian house. See entry on page 178
82 BLUE BAY CAFE

Penzance A friendly cafe offering a varied menu with homebaked cakes and an extensive wine list. See entry on page 177
85 COUNTRY COUSINS CAF

Penzance A team of hard working brothers front up this fine caf found in a beautiful old market building, known for its wholesome homemade food. See entry on page 179
108

Further down is Chapel Street, where No 25 was the childhood home of Marie Branwell, the mother of the Bront sisters. Local history and the work of the Newlyn School of artists can be seen at the Penlee House Gallery and Museum, where paintings of the Newlyn school can be seen, including those by Walter Langley, and where the countys long association with the mining industry led to the foundation of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall in 1814. Along the promenade lies the Jubilee Pool, a wonderful open-air seawater swimming pool that still has its original art deco styling. The pool is open every summer from the end of May to early September. Over 10 days in late June, the Golowan Festival (Cornish for midsummer) is the festival of Saint John and features fireworks, a variety of music and other entertainments, culminating in the Mazey weekend and notably Mazey Day on the Saturday, which centres around the parades and other street events in the centre of town. Quay Fair Day takes place on the Sunday when focus moves to the harbour area and the promenade. Anyone who saw the television adaptation of Mary Wesleys novel The Camomile Lawn will recognise Penzance as the town to which the three main characters, Calypso, Walter and Polly, came for their annual summer visit. Two miles west of Penzance at Buryas Bridge, Trewidden Garden is best known for its camellias, with a collection of over 300 varieties built up over many decades from
Harbour Lighthouse, Penzance
places as far afield as China and India. Other highlights include a superb magnolia x veitchii that is believed to be the largest specimen in the British Isles, and which overshadows a pond. There are also several remnants of the tin mining industry and a bomb crater formed in World War II when a series of parachute bombs exploded in the area.
AROUND PENZANCE
NEWLYN
1 mile SW of Penzance on the B3315
The settlement is recorded as Nulyn in 1279 and as Lulyn in 1290, the name probably derived from the Cornish for pool for a fleet of boats. Newlyn (Cornish Lulynn) has long been associated with fishing, today it is the base for around 200 vessels, which vary greatly in size, and whose valuable catches are now shipped around Britain and Europe in massive refrigerated lorries. Its a refreshing contrast to the dwindling activity evident in most of Cornwalls other ports. The fishing industry, like other industries, was spurred on by the arrival of the railways - at Newlyn in 1859 - which allowed the swift transportation of fresh fish and seafood to London and beyond. Before the coming of railways, the fish had to be salted to preserve them. The Pilchard Works in the town continues to produce a range of fish products, employing traditional methods and using fish from sustainable stocks. The Newlyn Fish Festival celebrates the Cornish fish industry over the August bank holiday, with samplings of local seafood as well as exhibitions of craftwork and Cornish entertainment. Fishing is not the only reason for visiting Newlyn. Drawn to the town by the exceptionally clear natural light, Stanhope Forbes came here in the 1880s to paint outside rather than in a studio. He was soon joined by other artists keen to experience
109
the joys of working here and the Mousehole Harbour Newlyn School of art developed with the help of artists such as Lamorna Birch, Alfred Munnings, Norman Garstin and Laura Knight. The town is still a favourite place for artists, and the Newlyn Art Gallery, founded in 1895 by the Cornishman Passmore Edwards, shows the paintings of those living and working here today, together with changing exhibitions of the Newlyn artists past and present. thought that the villages name could have In 1755 the Lisbon earthquake over 1,000 been derived from the Phoenician word for miles away caused a tsunami to strike the watering place - Mousehole has a long and Cornish coast. The sea rose 10 feet in 10 minutes at Newlyn, ebbed at the same rate, sometimes disturbing history. Some 2,000 years after these first known visitors, the and continued to rise and fall for 5 hours. Spanish arrived and ransacked the village in MOUSEHOLE 1595, leaving only the former manor house, 2 miles S of Penzance off the B3315 now known as Squire Keigwin, in Keigwin Street relatively unscathed. The rest of the Dylan Thomas married Caitlin Macnamara, village and the church in nearby Paul were from County Clare in Ireland, in nearby torched. However, this attack was not totally Penzance Registry Office in July 1937, against unexpected by the villagers as they saw it as the wishes of his parents. The pair the fulfilment of a prophecy made by Merlin honeymooned in Mousehole, which Thomas that can be seen inscribed on Merlins Rock, described as the loveliest village in near the quay. The stone bears these words: England. Mousehole (pronounced Mowzel) There shall land on the Rock of Merlin is indeed the epitome of a Cornish fishing Those who shall burn Paul, village. Accounts vary as to the derivation of Penzance and Newlyn. the name of Mousehole, originally the village The village was rebuilt and went on to was named Porth Enys, port of the island, a become an important pilchard fishing port reference to St Clements Isle, a low, bare until the stocks of fish dwindled in the early reef that faces the village a few hundred 20th century. Every year just before yards offshore. Its present name may have Christmas, a Stargazy Pie - a local specialty been taken from a smugglers cave just south made with whole fish whose heads stick up of the town. Certainly visited by Phoenician through the pastry crust - is made in tin merchants in around 500 BC - it is also
86 THE CORNISH RANGE RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS

Mousehole This outstanding village pub oozes style and class and serves delicious home cooked food daily. See entry on page 180
87 JESSIES DAIRY
Mousehole Jessies specialises in home made produce and is well known for the delicious traditional Cornish pasties and cream teas. See entry on page 179
110

commemoration of Tom Lamorna Cove Bawcock, a local fisherman who saved Mousehole from starvation by setting sail in a storm and bringing home a large catch of seven varieties of fish. Less fortunate were the eight man crew of the Penlee lifeboat, the Solomon Browne, who were lost in hurricane conditions while attempting to rescue the last four crew members from the coaster Union Star, after it suffered engine failure in December 1981. There were no survivors from the Union Star, in total there were 16 casualties. The Penlee Lifeboat Disaster Memorial commemorates those who lost their lives. On the cliffs at Raginnis Hill is the Mousehole Wild Bird Hospital & Sanctuary. It became famous following the Torrey Canyon oil tanker disaster off the west Cornish coast in March 1967 when over 8,000 oil-affected birds were treated. Half a mile inland, at the top of steep Mousehole Hill, the churchyard wall at Paul holds the Dolly Pentreath Memorial. Dolly Pentreath died in 1777, aged 102, and was reputedly the last person to speak the Cornish language, Kernewek.
field. The rough-hewn circle is said to be all that remains of a group of local women turned to stone as a punishment for dancing on Sunday. Other than the likelihood that the ring dates from some time between 2400 and 800 BC, nothing is known about their origins or significance though they were probably the focus of some ceremonial function. Just 275 yards from the Merry Maidens are the largest standing stones (or menhirs) in Penwith, called The Pipers, the tallest being 16 feet. Both stones, one of which has a definite slant, are within a couple of hundred feet of each other.
ST BURYAN
5 miles SW of Penzance on the B3283
LAMORNA
4 miles SW of Penzance off the B3315
This isolated hamlet is set in the craggy Lamorna Cove, immortalised by the artist Lamorna Birch (real name Samuel John Birch) and author Derek Tangye, who were among several artists attracted to this area between 1880 and 1910. Birch died in 1955, and Tangye, who wrote the immensely popular Minack Chronicles, died in 1996. Once only licensed to sell beer, Lamornas pub, The Wink, got its name from the old custom of winking to the landlord to obtain contraband spirits from under the counter. From the village it is easy to visit the Merry Maidens, a ring of stones in an open
This village is home to one of the finest churches in the county, St Buryans Parish Church. The first church was built by King Athelstan in the 10th century. Having subdued the Scilly Isles, he returned to the mainland and founded a collegiate church, that is, a church with a college of priests rather than monks, and dedicated it to St Buriana. She was said to be the virgin daughter of an Irish king who landed at St Ives in the 5th century. The church is packed with interesting features, such as misericords, a fine font, a chancel screen and a 14th century tower that dominates the landscape and provides a daymark for shipping around Lands End. Apart from the Celtic crosses beside the porch, the most
111

interesting feature in the graveyard is a stone that reads: Here lie John and Richard Benn Two lawyers and two honest men. God works miracles now and then. To the north of St Buryan is the BoscawenUn Stone Circle which, though not the most impressive in the country, certainly has much appeal; the circle is in fact an oval made up of 19 stones, and its central standing stone an attractive 8 feet tall leaning pillar of sparkling quartz, was deliberately placed so that it leaned at an angle, its tip only being 6 feet from the ground.
his own expense, but the fine balance the rock once had has never returned. This act of misadventure is recorded in the local inn. Below Logan Rock is the spectacularly sited Iron Age coastal fort, Treryn Dinas. Despite having been constructed over 2,000 years ago, the earthwork defences on the landward side can still be made out.
PORTHCURNO
TREEN
6 miles SW of Penzance on the B3315
Situated in a shallow valley, Treen is a good base for local cliff walking and bird watching, as well as the nearest point across to Logan Rock and Pedn Vounder Beach. The headland to the east of the beach is the location of the famous Logan Rock, a massive 70-ton granite boulder that was once so finely balanced that it could be rocked reputedly at the merest touch. The rock was a popular tourist attraction until 1824, when Lieutenant Hugh Goldsmith (the nephew of the poet and playwright Oliver Goldsmith), egged on by some Royal Navy colleagues, pushed the stone on to the beach below. After many complaints by the locals, the naval officer was instructed to replace the rock - an extraordinary feat of engineering in itself - at
Minack Theatre, Porthcurno
Overlooking one of the most dramatic and atmospheric coves in southwest Cornwall, Porthcurnos triangle of beach, made up of crushed sea shells, is sheltered by Gwennap Head to the west and Cribba Head to the east. In ancient times, Porthcurno was home to Selevan, a Celtic saint. Evidence of his presence exists today in the form of St Levans well with its flight of stone steps, St Levans cross and the Parish Church of St Levan which dates back to the 13th century. It was from this village, in 1870, that the first telegraph cable was laid, linking Britain to the rest of the world, and this little bay soon became known as the centre of the universe, its telegraphic code name was PK. The Porthcurno Telegraph Museum explains the technology that has been developed, from Victorian times to the present day, to make global communications possible. The museum is housed in a secret underground wartime bunker, with some of the equipment still being in good working order. Porthcurno is also the home of the Minack Theatre, the most famous cliff theatre in Britain, possibly in the world. This open-air amphitheatre, cut into the high cliffs, was founded by Rowena Cade. With her resourcefulness and financial input its first production, The Tempest, was staged in 1932. A summer season has continued ever since in the 750auditorium. The theatre is well worth a visit even when there isnt a performance, for the spectacular panorama of
112

Porthcurno Bay, the thriving sub-tropical plants and the Rowena Cade Visitor Centre, which tells the extraordinary history of this unique theatre.
PORTHGWARRA
This quaint old fishing hamlet lies just northeast of the high cliffs of Gwennap Head LANDS END from which there is a spectacular coastal 9 miles SW of Penzance on the A30; (874 miles SW of John OGroats) walk to Lands End, although walkers should be aware that the terrain is sometimes A curious mix of natural spectacle and manrugged. A tunnel runs from the slipway up to made indulgence, Lands End, Englands the road at Porthgwarra, and some people most westerly point, is certainly one of the claim it was dug and used by smugglers. A countrys most famous landmarks. more likely explanation, however, is that it Notwithstanding the commercialisation and was excavated to allow farmers to bring the dubious tourist trappings, it is still a seaweed from the beach to their fields to use spectacular place. You cannot fail to feel a as fertiliser. sense of awe and wonder as you stand on The small and cosy cove, with its sandy the 200 feet high granite rocks that gaze out beach and backdrop of steep cliffs, was once on the Atlantic and the lost land of known as Sweethearts Cove as this is Lyonesse. Known to the Romans as Bolerium, where, many years ago, Nancy, a prosperous or Seat of Storms, from this headland can be farmers daughter from the village, said seen Longships Lighthouse, which protects goodbye to her forbidden lover, William, who shipping from the Longships reef just had been a farmhand on her fathers farm. offshore and Wolf Rock Lighthouse, some 7 Nancys parents had objected to the miles away. marriage, considering William not to be good The scenery is the amazing natural enough, but then relented, saying that before attraction here, but theres much more to any marriage could take place, William had interest the visitor. The Lands End centre to go to sea for three years to make his features the history and heritage of Cornwall fortune. Three years passed, and there was and Lands End, including tales of the sea and no sign of William, much to the parents smuggling. Attractions include The Curse of delight. Nancy watched constantly from the shore for her lovers return, and her parents eventually became The Cliffs, Lands End worried by her peculiar behaviour. One evening Nancys Aunt Prudence heard voices coming from Nancys room and she eavesdropped, clearly hearing William say Waken up and come to the shore, my love, where I await you. Nancy went to the shore, and her aunt followed, only to see Nancy safe in the arms of William by the shore. However, a sudden wave engulfed them both and they were swept out
to sea. A few days later word reached the distraught parents that William had indeed been returning home on that fateful night, and that he had climbed the mast to get his first look at Porthgwarra where Nancy awaited him. Alas he fell from the mast, and was swept overboard and drowned. Neither he nor Nancy were ever seen again.
113

Skull Rock a 4-D adventure film Sennen Cove for all the family, an Air Sea rescue film, a new exhibition for 2011, The Monsters of the Deep, and the free exhibition The End to End Story. The West Country Shopping Village sells a range of clothing, West Country foods, gifts and souvenirs. But for those who wish to get away from it all, the tourist complex can soon be left behind as the moors and the cliffs are ever-present close by. A short walk northwards over the cliffs at Lands end brings the visitor to Sennen Cove (see also Sennen), a wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, where the stron Atlantic breakers make it very popular for surfing. Naturally, this place has given rise to numerous legends over the centuries and one claims that Lands End was once the entrance to Lyonesse, the fertile kingdom that stretched from here to the Isles of Scilly some 28 miles to the southwest. With great cities and 140 churches, it is said to have been engulfed by a great wave on 11th November 1099, taking with it all the fine buildings and all its inhabitants bar one man Trevilian, who escaped from Lyonesse riding a white horse. The Trevilian family crest still depicts a horse rising from the waves. For many years afterwards, sailors would tell of hearing bells ringing beneath the waves, and fishermen would claim that doors, furniture and pottery had been brought up in their nets. In the 1930s a journalist actually claimed he had heard the bells in the night, and people still say that occasionally they have made out walls and battlements beneath the waves. It goes without saying that the legend of King Arthur has been caught up in all this.
clifftop Castle, one of the countrys earliest dating from 300 BC. The wide sandy beach at Sennen Cove is ideal for both bathing and surfing, and the former windlass house of the lifeboat station has been converted into an arts and crafts gallery. Sennen Cove beach was awarded a Blue Flag in 2010, and there is lifeguard cover from May to September. St Sennen Parish Church is named after a supposed Irish saint, Sinninus, who accompanied St Patrick to Rome, though a more likely explanation for the name is that Sennen comes from the Cornish sen nan, meaning holy valley. The church dates mainly from the 15th century. There are some medieval wall paintings in the south aisle.
BRANE
4 miles W of Penzance off the A30
SENNEN
8 miles SW of Penzance on the A30
The most westerly village in England, there are superb cliff walks along the coast to Lands End and, close to the massive Pednmen-du headland, lie the remains of a
Just to the west of this lovely hamlet is the fascinating Iron Age courtyard village of Carn Euny, founded around 200 BC by an early Cornish farming community, though there is evidence that the site was inhabited long before this. By far the most impressive building here is the Fogou, which was first discovered by miners in the 19th century. Taking its name from the Cornish for cave, this underground chamber was constructed in three separate stages and this 65 feet long room was entered by a low, creep passage at one end. Its purpose is still unclear although it may have been used for storage or for religious ceremonies. Immediately west
114

of Carn Euny is Bartinney Downs, a large area of heathland being managed with a programme of controlled cattle and sheep grazing and cutting of scrub that will result in a high-quality wildlife area. As well as improving and extending existing wildlife habitats, the scheme will conserve archaeological sites and historic features, which include old china clay works, abandoned quarries and the ruins of Bartinney Castle.
SANCREED
3 miles W of Penzance off the A30
In the churchyard of 15th century St Credans Parish Church can be found five Celtic Crosses, some of the many that are scattered around Cornwall. One in particular, at 9 feet high, and of the wheel-head shape, is the best example of its kind in the county. The existence of Sancreed Holy Well nearby and the curious circular formation of the site suggests that the church is built on much older foundations. In the surrounding area of Sancreed are two Bronze Age monuments, the Blind Fiddler and the Two Sisters. Like many Cornish menhirs they are said to represent human beings turned to stone for committing irreligious acts on the Sabbath. In the 19th century, bone fragments and ashes were found at the base of the Blind Fiddler, not by an official dig but by a treasure hunter.
ST JUST-IN-PENWITH
6 miles NW of Penzance on the A3071
The main centre at the peninsulas western end, St Just was one of the copper and tin mining centres of Cornwall, and the area surrounding the town is littered with
industrial remains. However, the mainly 15th century St Justs Parish Church contains some fascinating early relics, including two heavily restored medieval wall paintings, and a 5th century burial stone on which is carved one of the earliest English Christian inscriptions. St Just, or Justus, was sent to England by Pope Gregory in AD 596, along with St Augustine, to convert the Saxons and Celts of the country. In AD 616 he was appointed Archbishop of Canterbury. Near the towns clock tower, at the centre of St Just, is a shallow grassy amphitheatre that is known as Plen-an-Gwary, which means playing place. This was where medieval plays were performed up until the 17th century and which is now the setting for an annual. Event, the Lafrowda Festival. It is said to be the oldest still-working theatre in Britain, and it is here that the Ordinalia, a religious trilogy consisting of a Creation play, a Passion play and a Resurrection play in Cornish, are performed most years. A narrow road leads from the town westwards to Cape Cornwall, the only cape in England and Wales, from where there are views of Lands End and of the Longships Lighthouse. For years this headland topped by the stack of the Cape Cornwall Mine was thought to be Englands westernmost point, until more accurate means of measurement decided the contest in favour of Lands End. On the southern side of the headland lies Priests Cove, a quiet boulder strewn beach, and further along the South West Coast Path, which follows the clifftops, there is an unusual Bronze Age burial chamber, Ballowall Barrow. Cape Cornwall marks the supposed boundary between the English and St Georges channels.
88 THE COOK BOOK

St Just Book and food lovers will see their dreams realised in this unusual cafe which offers delicious home baked food alongside acres of second hand books to browse. See entry on page 181
BOTALLACK
7 miles NW of Penzance on the B3306
Almost overlooking the coast lies the remains of the old engine houses of Botallack Mine, the underground workings of which once went out beneath the sea bed. Its old workings are the most recognised symbol of Cornwalls proud mining heritage. But this
115
in a wrestling match. During the fight, one of the demons was thrown against a rock and, overcome with Christian charity, the two miners whispered a prayer into the ear of the dying creature. Immediately the ground trembled and the whole demonic party disappeared in a black cloud. The terrified miners hid on the carn until daylight before making their way home. The carn is also known as the Hooting Carn, due to the strange noise the wind makes as it passes over it. It is well worth a visit, if only to sit there and relax. Also worth a look are the nearby Dancing Stones of Tregeseal.
PENDEEN
6 miles NW of Penzance on the B3306
Engine House, Botallack
was a harsh industry that sometimes claimed lives. In 1863 the chain that pulled the mine gig suddenly broke, causing eight men and a boy to plummet to their deaths down the shaft. Among the derelict buildings are also the remains of one of the mines arsenicrefining works. The smell of arsenic can still be detected in the old flues.
KENIDJACK
7 miles NW of Penzance off the B3306
Close to this old mining village lies Carn Kenidjack, a rocky outcrop with a stone circle. There is a tale centred on Carn Kenidjack about two miners who encountered a black-robed horseman. He led them to Carn Kenidajck, where two demons were engaged
89 TREWELLARD ARMS
Trewellard With 5 real ales served and a fantastic beer festival annually, this free house is one to enjoy all year round. See entry on page 182
Tin has been mined in and around this village since prehistoric times and, from the 19th century, Pendeen also became a centre for copper extraction. Not surprisingly, it is this industry that dominates and to the northwest of the village there are two interesting old mines that are now open to the public. The last of 20 or so mines in the area to close was Geevor Tin Mine, where production ceased in 1990. Now, extensively preserved as the Geevor Tin Mine and Heritage Centre, it is the largest preserved mining site in Britain, and an important part of the World Heritage Site area for Cornish mining recognised by UNESCO in 2006. Visitors can enjoy a fascinating close-up view of the Cornish mining industry. You might finish up a guided tour in the on-site cafe, which affords distant views west to the coast, as far as the engine house of the Levant Mine. The Levant Beam Engine is the oldest working steam engine in the country, now restored and functioning. In 1919, Levant was the scene of a tragic accident when the man engine, or mechanical lift, broke away from its upper coupling killing 31 men and seriously injuring many others. Further to the north, on the slate promontory of Pendeen Watch stands Pendeen Lighthouse that has been guiding ships for nearly a century. Since all lighthouses were fully automated, Pendeen has been open for guided tours around the
116

light and the engine house. The headland also gives access to the lovely rocky Portheras Cove, a 10 -minute walk east, where youll find a pleasant cove with a white sand beach. Until 2004 parts of the beach were out of bounds due to razor sharp metal fragments under the sand the legacy of a botched attempt to dynamite an old wreck. Seals are a common sight here.
MADRON
1 miles NW of Penzance off the A30
the granite Men-an-Tol, a holed stone that was originally the entrance to a tomb chamber. For centuries, this granite ring was thought to have curative powers and naked children were passed through its centre nine times to cure all manner of diseases. A few miles from Men-an-Tol, is Chun Quoit one of the most dramatic of Penwiths quoits. Chun resembles a giant mushroom; a capstone is poised on top of four upright slabs, together enclosing a chamber within which bones of ancestors may have been laid.
The part 14th century St Madderns Parish NEW MILL Church was once the mother church to 4 miles N of Penzance off the B3311 Penzance and inside can be seen a Trafalgar or Nelson Banner, placed there during the events On a windy hillside northeast of the village that followed the news of Trafalgar and lies Chysauster Ancient Village, which is Nelsons death. Close to the village centre, administered by English Heritage. In around down an overgrown path, lies the source of St 500 BC, the Celts established themselves in Madderns Well that was thought to have the region, bringing with them weapons and curative powers, especially to those with tools made of iron. Much given to tribal rickets who tied a rag to the small thorn tree wards, the Celts constructed sturdy hill-forts growing here. It was also used for divination, throughout the peninsula, and the best preserved is Chysauster, dating from around showing that the well had pre-Christian the first century BC and occupied until origins. Young women would tie two pieces of around AD 400. This ancient village was straw together in the form of a cross, and stick a pin in it. They would then place it on discovered during archaeological excavations the water; the number of bubbles rising as it in the 1860s. For all its age, the village has gradually sank indicating how many years it surprisingly modern features neat rows of would be until they married. Further along the paired cottages, each with their own path are the remains of St Madderns Cell, terraced garden and paved courtyard. the place where the saint, who lived in the 6th century, was said to have baptised villagers and which was destroyed by Cromwellian soldiers in 1646. North of Madron, the landscape of granite and hilly moorland is an apt setting for the cluster of enigmatic relics of Cornwalls prehistory scattered about there. In particular, there is Chysauster Ancient Village, nr New Mill Lanyon Quoit and
117
Accommodation, Food & Drink and Places to Visit

The establishments featured in this section includes hotels, inns, guest houses, bed & breakfasts, restaurants, cafs, tea and coffee shops, tourist attractions and places to visit. Each establishment has an entry number which can be used to identify its location at the beginning of the relevant county chapter. In addition full details of all these establishments and many others can be found on the Travel Publishing website - www.findsomewhere.co.uk. This website has a comprehensive database covering the whole of the United Kingdom.
118
THE BEACH AT BUDE
Summerleaze Crescent, Bude, Cornwall EX23 8HL Tel: 01288 389800 e-mail: enquiries@thebeachatbude.co.uk website: www.thebeachatbude.co.uk
Luxury Boutique Accommodation in Cornwall with Stunning Sea Views Located on Summerleaze Crescent with stunning views of Summerleaze Beach is a fantastic find in The Beach at Bude. Tim Davis and his team turned what was a dilapidated and sad building into a splendid place of contemporary elegance for people to stay, holiday makers and business travellers alike. The staff go that extra mile to make sure a visit is one to repeat and guests will be impressed with how much this bed and breakfast has to offer. Most of the luxurious rooms have uninterrupted views over Summerleaze Beach and the Atlantic Ocean offering a truly unique experience. Each bedroom comes equipped with far more than you would expect to see in a bed and breakfast: flat screen TV, Blu-Ray player, Wi-Fi and internet cable, iPod docking station, direct-dial telephone, hairdryer, mini fridge (containing complimentary milk and mineral water), hospitality tray, Molton Brown toiletries and a safe for valuables. All the bedrooms are decorated in a New England seaside style, and have cooling limed oak furniture, Vi-Spring beds, Lloyd Loom chairs and duck down duvets/pillows. Hollow fibre bedding is available upon request.
WEST POINT BED & BREAKFAST
Crimp, Morwenstow, Bude, Cornwall EX23 9PB Tel: 01288 331594 e-mail: bramhill@supanet.com website: www.budebedandbreakfast.co.uk
West Point is a 4 star quality bungalow with all rooms on the ground level. Set in half an acre of lovely tranquil and interesting gardens, where guests are invited to sit and relax or experience the beautiful skies as the sun goes down over the horizon. Guests have their own entrance and all day access. All rooms are en suite and beautifully decorated throughout with free view TVs plus many additional extras. The extra large double room has a comfortable four-poster bed, en suite shower room and a delightful sitting area that can easily be converted into a family room for four. Guests also have the use of a large cosy lounge area with leather sofas and log burning stove for those cool autumn evenings. West Point is in an ideal situation for touring the countryside or walking the many miles of coastal paths. Being in an area of outstanding natural beauty, the views over rolling hills and out to the sea beyond are truly breathtaking.
119
BULLERS ARMS HOTEL
Marhamchurch, nr Bude, Cornwall EX23 0HB Tel: 01288 361277 e-mail: enquiries@bullersarms.co.uk website: www.bullersarms.co.uk
Daniel Anstis brought years of experience in the licensing and catering business when he took over Bullers Arms Hotel in October 2006. Built as a typical Cornish Longhouse, it has been an inn since 1856 and over the years has become one of the best known and best loved in the whole county. It was originally called Kings Arms, but its name was changed after the Boar War to commemorate the deed of Sir Redvers Buller, who led the relief of Mafeking. Born just over the border in Devon, he became a hero in the whole region, and indeed to the nation. The hotel, which stands off the A39 two miles southeast of Bude, is full of old-world charm with old stone and brick, polished dark wood, gleaming brass, an open fire, period prints and memorabilia plus lots of cosy corners. Regular real ales including Betty Stogs, Tribute, Abbot Ale and their own named ale from Tintagel Brewery called General Buller Gold are all available lunchtimes and evenings, throughout the day Saturday and Sunday and all day in the summer. Their real ales are Cask Marque Accredited. The top quality, homemade food available varies from a tempting range of light bites and traditional fayre in the bar (with waitress service) to an altogether finer dining experience with their Tonights Specials menu. Samples from the top class menu include pan fried chicken with a bacon and stilton sauce served with fresh vegetables and new potatoes, Sarahs steak and ale pie in a shortcrust pastry served with fresh vegetables and new potatoes and a Mediterranean vegetable lasagne served with a ciabatta garlic bread. The ever popular Sunday Carvery boasts four meats and no fewer than seven freshly prepared vegetables. To finish off the Dessert Specials are freshly homemade and sure to delight all who indulge! For visitors looking for accommodation, the hotel offers eight comfortable, well furnished guest rooms, all with ensuite facilities and varying in size, which are available on B&B basis. The hotel also has a large Function Suite. This is a great base for tourists with plenty to discover in the area beginning with the 14th century Church of St Marwenne which stands in the village itself. With the recently re-developed canal walk now open, Bude and Marhamchurch are accessible to each other by foot enabling the walker to take in the flora and fauna! Bullers Arms Hotel is among the top Cornish hotels, combining the best qualities of a much loved local, good value restaurant and comfortable hotel.
120
PENPETHY HOLIDAY COTTAGES
Lower Penpethy Farm, Tintagel, Cornwall PL34 0HH Tel: 01840 213903 e-mail: steadman945@btinternet.com
Steve Steadman is the proud owner and craftsman behind Penpethy Holiday Cottages. These delightful cottages have been converted from old barns to create attractive and unique holiday accommodation in the heart of Cornwall. They are ideally situated for exploring the North Cornwall coast and Bodmin Moor which are just a short drive away. Visitors can content themselves with leisurely country and coastal walks in the surrounding area, bursting to the brim with the natural, rugged beauty that Cornwall is known for. An afternoons stroll might take you down to the sandy bay of Trebarwith Strand where swimming, sun-bathing and surfing are all popular activities. Alternately you might end up exploring one of the nearby fishing villages and sampling some fresh local seafood, or invigorate the senses with a blustery hike along one of the areas dramatic and rocky headlands. Cottage visitors also have easy access to various golf courses and fishing sites with still water trout and coarse fishing nearby. Within the cottages themselves, guests benefit from luxury en suite bathrooms, open plan living areas, comfortable bedrooms, flatscreen TVs and handsome furnishings. There are three one bedroom cottages and one two bedroom cottages to choose from, located within their own private courtyard. Perfect for lazy BBQs, a separate barn contains garden furniture so that the sunny south facing courtyard can be enjoyed fully in the summer months.
MUSEUM OF WITCHCRAFT
The Harbour, Boscastle, Cornwall PL35 0HD Tel: 01840 250111 e-mail: museumwitchcraft@aol.com website: www.museumofwitchcraft.com
The Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle houses the worlds largest collection of witchcraft related artefacts and regalia. The museum has been located in Boscastle for over forty years and despite severe damage in recent floods, it remains one of Cornwalls most popular museums. The fascinating displays cover all aspects of witchcraft and include Divination, Sea Witchcraft, Spells and Charms, Modern Witchcraft, Herbs & Healing, Ritual Magic, Satanism and Hare & Shapeshifting One exhibit features the burial of Joan Wytte who was born in Bodmin, Cornwall, in 1775 and died of bronchial pneumonia in Bodmin Jail in 1813. She was a renowned clairvoyant and healer but became aggressive and impatient due to an untreated abscess in her tooth and people came to believe she was possessed by the devil. She became known as The Fighting Fairy Woman and was imprisoned for Grievous Bodily Harm. Her skeleton came into the possession of the Museum of Witchcraft and was exhibited there for many years. When Graham took over 8 years ago he and the museum team believed she deserved a proper burial and Joan was finally laid to rest in 1998. Among the other artefacts to be seen here are an amazing collection of figures and dolls, carved plates and stones, jewellery, cauldrons, weapons and unpleasant devices used for extracting confessions! A stair lift is available for those with limited mobility.
121
HENTERVENE HOLIDAY PARK
Crackington Haven, Bude, Cornwall EX23 0LF Tel: 01840 230365 Fax: 01840 230065 e-mail: contact@hentervene.co.uk website: www.hentervene.co.uk
Hentervene Holiday Park is a sheltered, peaceful family park on the stunning North Cornish coastline. It offers the perfect environment for the perfect holiday. Whether you choose to stay in one of its modern caravans or a luxury lodge, Hentervene has everything you need. It offers peace and tranquillity for that stress free, relaxing holiday, confident in the knowledge that all facilities are clean and well maintained for a safe, family friendly environment. The lodges come equipped with all modern cons, full central heating, flat screen TVs and outdoor decking for sunbathing and al fresco dining in the summertime. Each one is carefully decorated with a contemporary twist to emphasise that luxury feel. All caravans are also developed to high specifications and all conveniences, catering for all ages. Theres plenty to do on site with ten acres of glorious, unspoilt countryside to explore at leisure. Just a short distance away is Crackington Haven, renowned for its award winning beach bursting with rock pools for discovery, plenty of surf for water babies and life guards on duty throughout high season for peace of mind. And with the rest of Devon and Cornwall at your feet, Hentervene has so much to offer.
JAMAICA INN AND MUSEUMS
Bolventor, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 7TS Tel: 01566 86250 Fax: 01566 86177 e-mail: enquiry@jamaicainn.co.uk website: www.jamaicainn.co.uk
Built in the mid 18th century to serve travellers making the journey on the new turnpike road between Launceston and Bodmin, Jamaica Inn has become one of the best known hostelries in the country if not the world thanks to novelist Daphne du Maurier. Whilst staying here in the 1920s, she was taken with the romance of the surrounding bleak moorland and fascinated by tales of smugglers and villains who met here. Today, the inn still serves travellers who can enjoy a drink in the Smugglers bar, dinner in the du Maurier Restaurant or relax by a roaring log fire before retiring to one of the inns comfortable guest rooms. However, there is much more here than an atmospheric, 300 year old inn. Tales of smugglers and the arch villain, Demon Davey, vicar of Altarnun, are told through a theatrical presentation at the Smugglers at Jamaica Inn exhibition whilst more can be learnt of Daphne herself in the Daphne du Maurier Room. Many of her novels are based in Cornwall where she came to live with her husband in the 1930s and the room here is filled with memorabilia including her Sheraton writing desk. Finally, there is Mr Potters Museum of Curiosity, a fascinating collection of tableaux created by the Victorian taxidermist, Walter Potter. Visitors can see Steptoe and Sons bear and Walters first tableau, the Death and Burial of Cock Robin, along with smoking memorabilia, Victorian toys and dolls houses and some curious oddities.
122
THE WHITE HORSE INN
14 Newport Square, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 8EL Tel: 01566 772084 e-mail: welcome@whitehorselaunceston.co.uk website: www.whitehorselaunceston.co.uk
Located in one of Cornwalls most pleasant inland towns, The White Horse Inn is full of character and a good example of a former carriage inn. Built in 1690, its olde world charm, complete with stone floors and large fireplace, adds to the atmosphere and warmth of the place. Being situated in the ancient capital of Cornwall, one only needs to take a short stroll through the Towns narrow streets to see buildings of all styles and ages, from Tudor to Georgian to Gothic Victorian. In fact, the inn is so proud of its town and heritage that it displays a wonderfully nostalgic collection of old picture postcards, from around the town, framed in the bar area. Hostess Lucy Collins maintains a relaxed, happy atmosphere ensuring a welcoming inn for all that is well attended by locals and visitors alike. And its not only the warm welcome and fine ales that keeps the patrons returning time and time again, the White Horse is also known for its excellent food which is served daily between 12pm - 2 pm and again between 6.30 pm and 9.00 pm. Theres an extensive main menu on offer along with a daily specials board. A popular Sunday lunch is served every week and booking is advised. The inn offers comfortable B&B accommodation with four wellappointed rooms available, all with TV and tea/coffee making facilities. Theres one en-suite double bedroom and three other bedrooms (a double, twin and single) with a separate shower room and bathroom. It is an excellent base for exploring the area, which is surrounded by moorland, being on the eastern edge of Bodmin Moor. This is also the reason why the area is so popular with tourists. Guests of the White Horse are welcomed to use their large car park situated at the rear of the pub.
123
THE WEAVERS
Honey Street, Bodmin, Cornwall PL31 2DL Tel: 01208 74511 Fax: 01208 79806
Formerly a wine bar, The Weavers has been a fully-fledged public house, with this name since the 1970s. Situated in the centre of Bodmin, the building is located in Honey Street and is simply charming. Bright white in colour with black woodwork, the building is eye catching and has an element of mystery. Tenants Carol and David have worked here for nearly 6 years. Previously working as managers of The Weavers, they took over the tenancy in July 08. Great food is prepared and served here by the tenants son Dean, who is a very talented Chef. There is an extensive menu available with plenty of delicious meals. Steak and Tribute pie, Cornish gammon ham, egg and chips, nachos with chilli beef and a succulent rump steak is just a snap shot of the menu. Theres always a Pie of the Day on the specials board. There are plenty of fantastic side orders as well as light bites and a Childrens menu available, making this public house suitable for people of all ages. Serving three real ales, IPA, Tribute and Proper Job daily, the business is popular with locals and visitors alike. There is a smoking area which is partially covered and dogs are welcome. A warm welcome is 100% guaranteed when visiting this fantastic Pub.
124
10 BODMIN & WENFORD RAILWAY

Bodmin General Station, Bodmin, Cornwall PL31 1AQ Tel: 0845 125 9678 Fax: 01208 77963 e-mail: enquiries@bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk website: www.bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk
Discover the excitement and nostalgia of steam travel with a journey back in time on the Bodmin & Wenford Railway, Cornwalls only full size railway still regularly operated by steam locomotives. Relax in style and enjoy a leisurely 13 mile round trip through beautiful countryside, taking in the sights, sounds and smells of a bygone age, as the era of a Cornish branch line in the 1950s reveals itself during the course of your journey. Trains operate from Bodmin General, the lines main station where free coach and car parking is available, to both Bodmin Parkway station where connections can be made directly with main line railway services and Boscarne Junction, which is situated directly adjacent to the Camel Trail recreational footpath and cycle way. Passenger train services operate through the year, and run daily from late May to early October. There is a Buffet at both Bodmin General and Bodmin Parkway stations, and most services have a Buffet and Bar on board the train. There is also a souvenir shop at Bodmin General. Special events are also held throughout the year - Steam and Diesel Galas, Steaming Thru the 40s and several family-orientated events, including an Easter Egg-stravaganza and the visit of both Postman Pat and Paddington Bear to Bodmin! The Railway also operates a number of steam-hauled special trains through the season including Murder Mystery Evening Specials, Steam Beer & Jazz trains, a Luxury Dining Train and, during December, our very popular Santa by Steam specials. The Bodmin & Wenford Railway looks forward to welcoming you. Come and discover Cornwalls railway heritage at its very best a great family attraction!
125
11 PENLAN EATING HOUSE

Fourwinds, A30 Bodmin-By-Pass, Bodmin, Cornwall PL30 4HH Tel: 01208 821538 Afterhours: 01208 77410 e-mail: lesley533@aol.com website: www.eatatpenlan.vpweb.co.uk
Visitors to Penlan Eating House are in for a real treat. This delightful venue, situated adjacent to the A30 Bodmin By Pass at Fourwinds, is not just a roadside cafe by day but a warm and cosy evening restaurant with a charming atmosphere. Owned by Lesley Noyce for the past two years, who together with her team of dedicated staff believe that customers needs are of the utmost importance and do their best to ensure those needs are met. This is confirmed by the number of repeat visitors and referrals that return frequently. Penlan Eating House is the perfect destination for a night out, whether an intimate dinner for two or a large group celebration and all customers are highly valued. The popular cafe seats 40 and is open during the winter months Mon-Fri 8am-2.30pm, Sat 8am-2pm and Sun 9-11.30am. In the summer the cafe is open Mon-Sat 7am-4.30pm and Sun 8am-3pm. The licensed restaurant seats 24 and in the winter is open for bookings Fri-Sat 6.30pm-10pm and Sun 12-3.30pm. During the summer the opening hours are extended to Tues-Sat 6.30pm10pm and Sun 12-3pm. Visitors to both the cafe and the restaurant can be assured of quality service and attentive staff as well as delicious home cooked food at reasonable prices. The excellent evening menu will surprise yet delight guests with fabulous starters such as New Zealand Green Lipped Mussels in a garlic cream sauce and Baked seafood cobblerhaddock, salmon and prawns in a white wine, leek and mushroom sauce topped with cheese crumb. Succulent main courses include Surf and Turf - 8oz sirloin steak topped with garlic prawns served with mushrooms, onion rings and peas, salmon Steak topped with hollandaise sauce and curry of the day served on a bed of rice or chips with poppudum and naan bread. The vegetarian options include the mouth watering green pepper filled with broccoli and brie, topped with a creamy Mornay sauce and a cheese and herb Brea crumb topping. The daily specials board complements the main menu and a childrens menu is available too. On special occasions like Mothers Day etc, bookings are taken for great value set meals with all details on clients website. With many good offers on the various menus this is a venue not to be missed!
126
12 COTEHELE HOUSE
St Dominick, nr Saltash, Cornwall PL12 6TA Tel: 01579 351346 e-mail: cotehele@nationaltrust.org.uk website: www.nationaltrust.org.uk
At the heart of this riverside estate sits the granite and slatestone house of Cotehele, built mainly between 1485 and 1627 and a home of the Edgcumbe family for centuries. Intimate chambers feature large Tudor fireplaces and rich hangings. Outside, the formal gardens overlook the richly planted valley garden below, with medieval dovecote, stewpond and Victorian summer house. At the Quay interesting old buildings house the Edgcumbe Arms tea-room and an outstation of the National Maritime Museum. The restored sailing barge Shamrock is moored alongside.
13 SHEVIOCK BARTON
BED & BREAKFAST

Sheviock, Torpoint, Cornwall PL11 3EH Tel: 01503 230793 e-mail: thebarton@sheviock.freeserve.co.uk website: www.sheviockbarton.co.uk
Sheviock Barton is situated in the centre of the small unspoiled village of Sheviock , directly opposite the 13th century church. It reputedly stands on the site of the earlier medieval manor house of Sheviock. The current 300 year-old house has been totally but sympathetically restored, with full central heating. All around there are large gardens and grounds, with masses of parking and an adjoining paddock. Full English breakfast is served in the large farmhouse kitchen, with oak beams, flagstone floors and 4-oven AGA, and a wide selection of tea & coffee is always available in the hall. The accommodation comprises four guest bedrooms each with TV; an en-suite family room, two en-suite double rooms (one downstairs) and a twin room with private bathroom. Guests have their own relaxing sitting room with flagstone floor, Farrow & Ball Library Red walls contrasting with heavy calico curtains, off-white sofas and church candles. Attentive host Carol, likes to offer the home-fromhome approach and, with the secret key guests can come and go as they please.
127
14 ST JOHN INN
St John, nr Antony, Torpoint, Cornwall PL11 3AW Tel: 01752 822280 e-mail: stjohninn@hotmail.co.uk
Hidden in the leafy folds of a valley between Torpoint and Millbrook, the tiny village of St John is a delight to discover. Even more of a discovery is its 16th century Inn, with pretty and unexpectedly large gardens. The Cornish Times. The family run St John Inn sits at the heart of the village close to St Johns Lake once renowned for its smuggling activities but now enjoying a special habitat designation for wildlife. Originally a 16th century inn this venue now offers traditional cask ales and is rightly proud of the good value, quality food which is served in relaxed surroundings. The decor is traditional, in keeping with the age of the building and there is a cosy snug area upstairs with comfy sofas and chairs. It is one of the few remaining pubs that has retained its traditional charm, creating a warm and friendly atmosphere which welcomes locals and visitors alike to enjoy some excellent food from a varied and frequently changing main menu. You can rest assured that the only frozen food here is the ice-cream! Alongside the delicious cuisine St Johns offer a good range of quality wines to complement your meal. At the bar you can choose a pint including a good selection of quality cask ales. The St John Inn has very welcoming and helpful staff who are here to make your visit an enjoyable one. The clientele is a mixed age group and children are made very welcome, there is even a large climbing frame for them to enjoy in the spacious beer garden. A lovely home made meal in this old pub with surroundings of wooden beams and stone flooring is so relaxing - you really will enjoy your visit here.
128
15 WRINGFORD DOWN
Forder, Rame, Cawsand, Cornwall PL10 1LE Tel: 01752 822287 e-mail: sue@wringford.co.uk website: www.wringford.co.uk
Making its home on the Rame Peninsula only a 15minute walk from Whitsand Bay, is a very special find indeed. Set within 4 acres of grounds, Wringford Down offers both self-catering and bed and breakfast accommodation for the whole family. Sue and Andrew along with their four children, have created a home away from home, offering guests the highest levels of comfort along with plenty of things to keep the family entertained. The bed and breakfast accommodation comprises seven suites - a standard double, a standard twin, a king sized double, & four two bedroom suites. Each room has an en-suite along with all the much needed necessities to make sure your stay is an enjoyable one. Evening meals are available on certain nights, and are all home cooked using fresh local produce. There is a resident only bar which offers an ideal place to relax of an evening. For those looking for self-catering accommodation, there are three well appointed cottages and 2 spacious caravans, please check the website for individual details. Within the grounds, there is an indoor pool and a smaller paddling pool, kept at a warm 28 degrees. The pool is open from just before Easter until the end of September. Children of all ages are welcome, as are well behaved pets.
17 HAY LAKE FARM

Landrake, Saltash, Cornwall PL12 5AE Tel: 01752 851209 / 07989 426306 e-mail: ianbiffen@hotmail.co.uk website: www.haylakefarm.co.uk
Nestled in a tranquil setting with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside , Hay Lake Farm offers comfortable, modern bed and breakfast accommodation with unbeatable hospitality. Your welcoming host Diana, has created a fantastic setting in which to relax for a few days, or stay overnight and enjoy a break from a journey. The comfortable accommodation comprises one double bedroom and two family bedrooms, all of which have spacious en-suite bathrooms. Tea and coffee making facilities are provided in each of the bedrooms allowing guests to start the day off with a morning hot drink. Another great way to start the day is Dianas famous Cornish breakfast, created using home produced sausages, bacon and eggs. The breakfast is included in the tariff and is sure to impress. Children are very welcome and there is a travel cot available on request. Hay Lake is a small holding, and has horses, sheep, pigs, goats, hens and ducks, making it a perfect choice for animal/nature loving guests. For those who enjoy walking or cycling there are miles of lanes and footpaths in the area that offer an ever changing scenery of hedgerows and wildlife throughout the year.
129
16 TRENETHICK FARMHOUSE B&B

Trerulefoot, Saltash, Cornwall PL12 5DD Tel: 01503 240 215 e-mail: info@trenethick-farmhouse.co.uk website: www.trenethick-farmhouse.co.uk
Trenethick, formerly part of Coldrenick Estate, is an organic beef and arable farm that has been farmed by the Carpenter family for 250 years. Many changes over the years have seen John Carpenter and his wife Amanda farming organically, diversifying in to horse livery and now opening up the Trenethick Farmhouse B&B to provide organic bed and breakfast accommodation in every sense of the word. Between beautiful moorland and spectacular coastline, Trenethick Farmhouse B&B promises a real farmhouse stay. Their organic ethos spread throughout the farm and continued all the way through to the spacious and tastefully decorated rooms, each with ensuite shower room or private bathroom. Its so prevalent a theme that even the cleaning products are eco-friendly and the towels and bedding are organic. The furnishings are an eclectic mix of antique, refurbished and occasional new pieces all purchased locally or given by neighbours and friends. The gentle colours on the walls are from the eco-friendly Farrow & Ball range of paints. Splashes of colour and art are provided by Amandas paintings, sculpture and soft furnishings, so theres lots to look at and textures to touch. Also, making good on their promise of a real farmhouse stay, the traditional breakfasts are cooked for guests on the four-oven range in the farm kitchen. Its not surprising too that the full English breakfast contains only organic and/or, when not available, locally sourced ingredients. Special diets can be catered for simply inform John or Amanda. Having strong equestrian links, John and Amanda wanted your horses to be welcome at Trenethick too. They can provide anything from grazing only to full board and lodgings for your equine companion. Throughout the winter season, Trenethick will continue to offer hunting livery to enable those enthusiasts among you to sample the stunning Cornish and Devonshire countryside. Whether for a well earned organic break or for some dedicated together time, Trenethick have packages to suit everyones requirements.
130
18 KELLYS OF LOOE
Fore Street, East Looe, Cornwall PL13 1DT Tel: 01503 26302 Fax: 01503 263381 e-mail: kellysoflooe@hotmail.co.uk
Looe has been a fishing and seafaring port since at least as far back as the 13th century, and is still the second largest fishing port in Cornwall. Fish auctions are held regularly at East Looes quayside market, and the town hosts an annual sea angling festival and a number of sailing events to keep visitors busy. The sea and its precious harvest remain at the heart of life here, and when it comes to considering fish as food, Kellys of Looe definitely rules the waves. Friendly owners Pete and Tina Roberts have been at the helm of Kellys for over thirty years, and continue to welcome familiar and unfamiliar faces to their much-loved restaurant. With the assistance of their hard-working and attentive staff Kellys has not only earned its reputation as one of the best fish restaurants in the South West but has also been rated 4 star by Sea Fishing Industry Awards. It stands on a prime location close to the quay, and if you choose to dine upstairs you will be lucky enough to enjoy the view of the historic bridge that links East and West Looe. The mainstay of the delicious menu is naturally the fish - the best cod, haddock and plaice, cooked in Kellys own-recipe batter or grilled, and served with excellent chips. Other fishy delights include scampi, whitebait and homemade fish cakes, but meat-eaters are equally well catered for at this popular eatery. The fresh pies are extremely tempting and are all home cooked. The homemade desserts offer the perfect way to round off a meal, and the homemade strawberry Pavlova is so scrumptious that it serves over two hundred portions a day in peak season! For those who are looking for something to take away and enjoy whilst wondering around the pretty harbour, Kellys homemade ice-cream provides the perfect indulgence. Breakfast from toast to full English is available from 8am till 11.30am for those who are looking to make the most of the day. Kellys is very popular with families and there is a separate menu just for the kids. A pensioners special lunch is also offered every week, all year round. High chairs and baby changing facilities are also provided. Open from 8am - 10pm (winter 9am - 3pm) and a full takeaway is served from 11. A visit to Looe is not complete without a trip to the renowned Kellys.
131
19 DAISYS CAFE
Castle Street, East Looe, Cornwall PL13 1BA Tel: 07988 803315
Daisys Caf is the sort of caf that practically beckons you inside, with the promise of the most amazing homemade cakes. Its the sort of caf where families, dogs and muddy boots are all welcome. The caf was established over three years ago by a young and likeable couple, Simon and Fay. And was named after Nan Daisy who used to always take me to the seaside in Devon and Cornwall at least 4 times a year, explained Fay. Were confident that Nan Daisy would be extremely proud of what they have achieved here, locals and visitors alike flock here for their exceptional home cooking. There is also Daisys Little Urchin menu for children and gluten free pasties and rock cakes. Its not surprising too that daisys are featured heavily within the interior; there are even fun daisy shaped scones! Daisys is a good starting point to fuel up before embarking upon the South West Coast Path. After Looe, the path passes through the village of Millendreath and opens up again on Bodigga cliffs, where the views open out to the Path ahead and Rame Head in the distance. No credit cards, shells or pebbles. Payments in cash only.
20 TOM SAWYERS TAVERN

Marine Drive, Hannafore, West Looe, Cornwall PL13 2DQ Tel: 01503 262782 e-mail: tomsawyers@hotmail.co.uk website: www.tomsawyers.co.uk
With breathtaking, panoramic views across Looe Bay and St Georges Island, the popular Tom Sawyers Inn has it all. The spacious and stylish restaurant provides the prefect setting to enjoy a tasty meal or a satisfying drink. The fine cuisine is created using fresh local produce, accompany this with picturesque views out across the water and guests can be assured of a unique dining experience. The full and varied menu means visitors are spoilt for choice and a carvery is added to the options on Sunday. With a relaxed atmosphere, the well stocked bar is a great place to enjoy a catch-up with friends over a refreshing beverage. There is a terrace with superb views and a covered headed smoking shelter. However, the fine food, real ales and unbeatable views arent the only things that attract visitors to this family run inn. The Tom Sawyers Tavern also provides two stunning, high quality letting rooms with sea views, large flat screen TVs, tea and coffee making facilities and a hearty Cornish breakfast which is included in the tariff. The inn offers an ideal base for those wishing to explore local attractions; The Monkey Sanctuary, Hannafore Beach, Boat Trips/Fishing Trips and East Looe Beach are all close by.
132
21 POLRAEN COUNTRY HOUSE

Sandplace, Looe, Cornwall PL13 1PJ Tel: 001503 263956 e-mail: enquiries@polraen.co.uk website: www.polraen.co.uk
Nestling peacefully in the picturesque Looe River Valley just 5 minutes from the seaside town of Looe, is the charming Polraen Country House Hotel. With easy access to both a convenient bus and the Looe Valley Line train service, guests are able to explore Looe, Polperro, Liskeard and beyond without the need to use a car, while Polraens ample car park makes it an ideal touring base. The 18th century hotel is owned and run by the Bridges family, on hand to make sure your stay is as enjoyable as possible. Guests can choose between double, superking/twin or family rooms all of which are ensuite, equipped with TV, hair dryer, WiFi access and tea and coffee making facilities and stylishly decorated to reflect the charm of this historic house. The comfort is second to none with a guest lounge, bar and dining conservatory looking out on beautiful gardens. Breakfast and dinner are created using locally sourced Cornish produce including fish from Looe Quay, with all dishes individually prepared and home-made. Evening dinner is available at Polraen from 7pm Mon-Fri (March to October) and Sunday lunch is available November to April. The hotel has been awarded the following accolades: AA 4 Star Guest Accommodation 2011, AA Breakfast and Dinner Awards 2011, Green Acorn Award for Sustainable Tourism, Caradon in Bloom Best Large Garden 2010, Finalist AA Landlady of the Year Award 2006.
22 WINDERMERE HOUSE
St Martins, Looe, Cornwall PL13 1NX Tel: 01503 262035 e-mail: enquiries@windermerehouse.co.uk website: www.windermerehouse.co.uk
Alun and Zelia Crockett welcome you to Windermere House, an award winning, three star luxury bed and breakfast holiday accommodation. Nestled in peaceful countryside overlooking superb views of rural pastures leading down to the sea, which is an easy 20-30 minutes walk away. The guest house is a good base for touring Cornwall and such places as the historic fishing ports of Looe and Polperro, Eden Project, China Clay Museum, Aquariums, Zoos, National Trust & English Heritage properties, coastal path walks, sandy beaches, rolling countryside, plus much more.
133
23 OLD LANWARNICK
Old Lanwarnick, Duloe, nr Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 4QF Tel: 01503 221003 Mob: 07889 298642 e-mail: joanna@listedluxury.co.uk website: http://www.listedluxury.co.uk
Featured on TVs Discovery Real Time and given the coveted 5 Star, Gold Standard Award by Quality in Tourism and voted in the Top 50 Coolest Cottages by The Sunday Times. Old Lanwarnick, a five star, Gold award winning, luxury holiday hamlet, was developed by owner Joanna Somerset-Wood and her partner Mike Harvey from a cluster of derelict farm buildings in a small hamlet recorded in the Domesday Book nearly 1,000 years ago. Old Lanwarnick has a real sense of time and place and part of the reward for the hard work we have all put in, is the knowledge that it has been saved for future generations.- says Joanna. With over 1000 years of history on site, this is a place where the beauty, mystery and the ancient history of Cornwall meets contemporary, luxury living. All the barns at Old Lanwarnick have been thoughtfully and tastefully decorated, incorporating a blend of modern and homely, resulting in a stylish, comfortable home from home for your holiday. The walls are adorned with stunning, original, oil paintings, many by Jessica Hill (an equine artist from the South West) and there are wonderful pieces of sculpture and craft dotted around. Guests are welcome, by prior arrangement, to bring their dogs or horses on holiday, free of charge. Horses have excellent stabling and turnout facilities along with great off road accompanied hacking and posh picnic rides (for an additional charge.) Joanna and Mike offer free use of the hot tub barn and mini gym, a welcome basket of local produce, long robes and slippers, plus many optional extras; champagne breakfast to the door, clay pigeon shooting, beauty therapies, theming of the living area for special occasions and a personal chef for larger groups. There are several offsite activities that Joanna is also able to organise including; polo lessons, 4x4 off-roading, surfing lessons, rock climbing, boat trips, sea & river fishing, Daphne Du Maurier walks, helicopter flights and kayaking. Set in an area of outstanding natural landscape in South East Cornwall, Old Lanwarnick is an ideal base for any holiday with easy access to Plymouth and to numerous picturesque Cornish fishing villages such as Polperro and Fowey, which offers many restaurants, cafes and chic shops, along with the more traditional ones. There are also many National Trust properties in the area to visit, plus numerous attractions all within easy reach, including but not limited to; The Eden Project, The Lost Gardens of Heligan, Carnglaze Caverns and The Camel Trail. An undeniable advantage of Old Lanwarnicks location is its complete tranquillity. As you sit late into the evening, you will hear only birdsong, certainly none of the high season bustle of the more well known Cornish resorts - an ideal way to get away from it all and unwind, especially for those wanting a quiet relaxing break.
134
24 CORNISH QUAY HOLIDAYS

Morcom Court, Windsor Place, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 4BH Tel: 01579 344667 e-mail: enquiries@cornquay.com website: www.cornquay.com
Cornish Quay Holidays offers over fifty wonderful, waterside and country self-catering holiday properties throughout Fowey and Polruan areas in Cornwall at any time of year. Many of the cottages available have stunning sea or harbour views, meaning that the homes are perfect for peaceful getaways. The general Fowey area is surrounded by beautiful scenery and is renowned for the stunning coastal walks and secluded coves that are visited by many tourists and locals every year. The vicinity has numerous shops and plenty of places to enjoy a good meal or two in the evenings. Perfect for couples and families, the top quality properties will serve to your every need. Children are welcome at all bar a few of the locations and some even accept pets, enabling you to treat the properties like your own home. The beautiful cottages and waterside houses sleep from between 2 and 10 people and have from 1 to 5 bedrooms. The majority of the properties are surrounded by superb hamlets or gardens, creating a wonderful setting for your holiday. All homes are decorated to a tremendous standard and you will not be left disappointed. Thoroughly charming are the country cottages, with their roaring fires and open beamed ceilings, the boathouse with the flying bridge window cantilevered over the water and the old coach house with a cobbled courtyard and complimentary bottle of wine. All of the locations available to rent for a UK holiday or short break away from the hustle and bustle of every day life are with out a doubt, 100% worth visiting. Each cottage has its own charm and character and has something different to offer their visitors. It is really recommended to contact this business and request a brochure so you can read up on the individual locations. The prices vary depending on the time of year and the property and start from 230 per week. Weekly bookings start on a Friday or Saturday and short breaks are available outside of the main holiday periods. Prices are inclusive of heating, electricity and bed linen. Booking with Cornish Quay Holidays is definitely money well spent and it is assured that you will have a wonderful holiday.
135
25 THE HIGHWAYMAN
Dobwalls, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 6JD Tel: 01579 320114 Fax: 01579 320479 e-mail: thehighwaymanpub@btconnect.com website: www.thehighwayman.org.uk
The fantastic Highwayman pulls locals and visitors in like a magnet, to enjoy quality Cornish hospitality, well kept ales and superb food. Located in the centre of Dobwalls on the old A38, which is now by passed, the property is an old stone building, built in the 18th Century and a former farmhouse. Converted in to a pub in 1962, for years, locals and visitors have been enjoying what the Highwayman has to offer. 18 months ago, locals Mac and Zoe took over as tenants of this public house and since they have been in charge, the business has gone from strength to strength. Once visiting this property, you will definitely return again and again. The property has steps and potted plants leading up to the front of the public house and has a sheltered veranda at the front of the building, with outside seating. There is an olde worlde interior used here, with exposed brickwork, which is very rustic, wooden panelling and natural beams. This dcor is complimented by up to date facilities. Parts of the property are light and airy, with adjacent dimmer and intimate areas. The prices are very reasonable and definitely dont break the bank. Very good dishes are the mixed grill, steaks and the international dishes including superb curries, which are very popular. The Sunday Lunch is also extremely popular and at 4.95 a head it is not hard to see why. There is a choice of meats and three seasonal vegetables, which can be enjoyed every Sunday throughout the day. There is an early bird special menu between 5 and 7pm- cutting the prices once again. Open 7 days a week, the Highwayman serves real ales daily, which are all kept in tip top condition. Regular ales are Betty Stogs and tribute, with a rotating guest ale, which is just as good as the regulars. The quality food is served daily between 12-2.30pm and 6-9pm. On top of all of the fabulous food, a vast array of differing types of entertainment is available each weekend, some are evenings for karaoke and there is also live music by some well-known names playing throughout the year.
136
26 BRIDGE ON WOOL
The Platt, Wadebridge, Cornwall PL27 7AQ Tel: 01208 812750 e-mail: sara-hargreaves@hotmail.co.uk website: www.bridgeonwool.co.uk
The Bridge On Wool public house and bed and breakfast is located in the popular area of Wadebridge. Once thought to be built on a foundation of wool, the building and surrounding areas have plenty of history waiting to be discovered. The building is traditional and oozes character, making it a fabulous setting to enjoy great food and drink as well as great quality accommodation. Sara and Tom have been the leaseholders here for the last two years and although being their first business of this kind, Sara has over 20 years experience in the licensing trade. Her experience shows, as the property is very popular with both locals and visitors travelling from all around the country. The hospitality exuded by the couple ensure a pleasant and warm welcome to those wishing to stay for a long weekend or those visiting for a top quality meal at very reasonable prices. Sara heads the kitchen here and prepares speciality homemade dishes. Local produce is used to create mouth-watering meals of homemade chilli con carne, fishermans pie and cheddar and tomato chutney tart during the day as well as garlic king prawns, steak and Guinness pie, pan-fried citrus salmon and mushroom stroganoff, which is served from 5pm onwards. There is also a selection of light bites such as jacket potatoes and sandwiches as well as a dedicated childrens menu, including all of their favourites for just 3.95. For the grownups, this can all be finished off with one of the 3 real ales served, sharps eden, skinners betty stogs and one rotating guest ale. At the Bridge On Wool there are 3 ensuite bedrooms upstairs, decorated to an excellent standard. Theses rooms can be on either a double or twin basis and are available all year round for a competitive price. The cost per night includes a tremendous breakfast, which is served all day in the downstairs public house, including the full monty English, scrambled or poached egg on toast, bacon or sausage sandwich and many more. With entertainment available, the public house and bed and breakfast is suitable for everyone. On Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays there is live music playing, with differing styles and on the second Wednesday of every month there is karaoke, which is always entertaining, creating a pleasant and sociable atmosphere.
137
27 BLUETOMATO
Rock, Cornwall PL27 6LD Tel: 01208 863841 e-mail: bluetomcafe@yahoo.co.uk website: www.bluetomatocafe.com
bluetomato proudly proclaims that its the only caf in Rock, living up to that status well. It commands stunning sea views out across the estuary, with the idyllic north Cornish town of Padstow just visible across the water. A handy water ferry takes passengers to and from Padstow where, like Rock there is much to see and do. Rock has the advantage of being slightly quieter during the summer months, offering a more peaceful respite for holidaymakers and locals alike. bluetomato is perhaps best known for its food, especially the homemade gourmet burger. It focuses on serving quality food with real attention to detail with the presentation. Each dish is cooked fresh to order using the best in local produce. Up to noon, guests can choose from full English or Cornish breakfasts or go posh with smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, pancakes or chunky roasted vegetable omelettes. From noon onwards a host of daily specials hit the blackboards, such as bouillabaisse, seabass fillets with babaganoush, feta and chick pea salad, Port Isaac lobster thermidore, with other fabulous sharers and light lunches also vying for attention. Why not tuck into some chilli beef nachos for two, or indulge in a sharing platter of tomato and buffalo mozzarella brushetta. Or for a taste of the sea order garlic cream and Porthilly mussels, a Cornish smoked fish salad or a traditional Cornish crab sandwich. Other favourites include avocado, bacon and Cornish blue cheese sandwich, watermelon and feta salad, and pesto linguini fresh from the kitchen. If youre just looking for a cup of coffee and something sweet however, bluetomato also offers an excellent array of homemade cakes and sweet or savoury scones throughout the day. In the summer months up to 100 guests can sit outside in the lazy afternoon sunshine on the bluetomatos covered terrace area, which takes the eye far across the water. Inside, the caf is equally as spacious, with light and airy dcor and architecture complimenting its enviable position. Lean back and relax on designer scatter cushions with funky art on the walls to admire. The caf is owned and run by Marc Dingle, whose passion for both the place and the business shines through. He has a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, previously owning various hostelries in the area. All are welcome especially dogs and children,of which the latter have their own food and games menu, ranging from board games to personal dvd players. The bluetomato is open 9am5pm april-nov, although during school holidays and summer (mid june-mid sept) bluetomato is open for evening dining, Bookings highly recommended.
138
28 THE CORNISH ARMS

Pendoggett, Port Isaac, Cornwall PL30 3HH Tel: 01208 880263 e-mail: info@cornisharms.com website: www.cornisharms.com
The Cornish Arms at Pendoggett is situated just 3 miles by car or a 40 minute walk from the beautiful, coastal village of Port Isaac, which is famous for the filming of Doc Martin the popular ITV drama series. The character Doc Martin originated from the 2000 Movie Saving Grace. Many of the interior scenes for this were filmed here at The Cornish Arms. This traditional English pub with cosy bars, open fires and original wooden beams offers first class accommodation and excellent traditional English fayre. As well as a superb authentic Thai menu, cooked by Thai Chef, Dang. Thai food is served every lunchtime and dinner except Sunday and Monday. A Thai Banquet is held on the last Thursday of every month (booking essential) and theres also a mouth watering Thai and Fish & chips take away menu. And lets not forget, the Sunday roast lunch which is a particular favourite. All ingredients are sourced locally whenever possible. Fish is mainly caught off the Cornish coast, some meat from Trevarthans butchers, and Tregorden farm near Wadebridge supplies free range Pork and homemade sausages. There is a beautiful large beer garden where you can relax in the summer months and enjoy a cold glass of real ale and the scenic views. Not only is the food a memorable experience at the Cornish Arms, staying here is also enjoyable and the staff promise to do all that they can to make your stay special. All 8 letting rooms including 2 family rooms and a flat are comfortably and tastefully decorated with en suite facilities and TV. Plus, a hearty Cornish breakfast is included in the price and pets are welcome (please contact for details). There are many local attractions to visit including the picturesque village of Port Isaac, the Camel Trail and Padstow, the home of Rick Stein and his famous fish restaurant and 40 mins from the Eden Project. In all, you could not want for a more enjoyable place to stay, with great food, superb accommodation, plenty to see and do and the warmest Cornish hospitality around. So if you want to get away from it all and discover the beautiful Cornish coastline, whether its for a family holiday, a romantic break or just a relaxing change of scenery then The Cornish Arms at Pendoggett is the place for you!
139
29 THE LONDON INN

6-8 Lanadwell Street, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8AN Tel: 01841 532554 e-mail: londoninnpadstow@live.co.uk website: www.padstowlondoninn.co.uk
A warm welcome is offered to all at the London Inn by its proprietors Tim and Lisa. Just a minutes walk from the quaint harbour at the popular seaside town of Padstow, the inn is easily accessible to visitors new and old, who fall in love with the inns charm and character. Like many traditional Cornish inns, the London inn was originally built for another purpose. In 1803 after being built it took its name from the local sloop and became home to three fishermen who resided in it in cottage form. The cottages were later knocked through to accommodate the inn, which now houses a charming red wood panelled bar, bedecked with various fishing and seafaring memorabilia from its earlier life. Guests can choose from a wide range of wines and spirits, alongside some good old fashioned Cornish real ale and cider, which have recently attained Casque Marque status. Food is available daily at the inn, cooked up from a menu that comprises an excellent array of local fish and meat dishes which can either be eaten in the cosy bar or in the Wheel House restaurant which can seat up to twenty four people for dinner or a private party. A traditional Sunday lunch is on offer each weekend. Tim and Lisa endeavour to support their local community by using local suppliers for all of their fresh meat, fish and vegetables.Two bed and breakfast rooms are also available which offer comfortable accommodation, in the heart of Padstow.
140
30 THE GOLDEN LION PUB

19 Lanadwell Street, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8AN Tel: 01841 532797 e-mail: enquiries@goldenlionpadstow.co.uk website: www.goldenlionpadstow.co.uk
Martin and Sarah welcome you to the Golden Lion and you couldnt find a more likeable landlord. Martin, a local boy born and bred, has built up a strong local following as well as successfully attracting in the numerous visitors to Padstow. This 14th century inn, the oldest inn in Padstow, is situated at the top of Lanadwell Street, opposite the cinedrome and just a 1-minute walk from the quay. Its oldie-worldly ambience, open fire and parquet flooring are the main draw for Martins guests. There is a family room where children are made very welcome and a lounge bar to the rear. Also at the back of the pub there is a patio area that can be covered if required! Nevertheless a wonderful interior can only impress guests so far, but thats okay because the Golden Lion doesnt disappoint in any aspect. The home cooked food is excellent and the steaks, supplied by Button Meats (a local family butchers that source only top grade local meat), are held in high regard. There are daily special boards with homemade soups pies and fish dishes plus much more. The accommodation was recently re-vamped and the three en-suite rooms, two double and one twin/double, are now individually decorated to a high standard. All rooms have TV and tea/coffee making facilities. The Golden Lion is the stable of the Old Oss which, on the 1st May each year dances through the streets of Padstow to the sound of drums and accordions. Obby Oss, as it is known, is one of the oldest festivals in Europe. Some old Padstonians travel from all over the world to be apart of it. It all begins at midnight the night, before when the Night Singers sing to the landlord and landlady of the Golden Lion, and ends at midnight on the 1st May. I recommend visiting the website to watch a video of all this in action. Its also worth noting that Martin is able to offer storage for bicycles if you bring your own. Unfortunately, there are no car parking facilities immediately on site however there are plenty of car parks all within walking distance and all offer a 24-hour rate.
141
31 THE OLIVE TREE

1 Crossroads, St Merryn, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8NF Tel: 01841 521560 e-mail: info@theolivetreecornwall.co.uk website: www.theolivetreecornwall.co.uk
Located just a few minutes away from Padstow and the picturesque North Cornwall coastline, is a very popular restaurant - The Olive Tree. Open for brunch and dinner, The Olive Tree serves simple food, in a relaxed atmosphere with many of the dishes being influenced by Italy, a county much loved by owners Kevin and Flo. The focus is on making the most of the Cornish Larder with its fantastic meat, cheese and vegetables, and not forgetting the fish! Taking into account everything that The Olive Tree stands for, honest food, fresh ingredients, warm hospitality and talented chefs, it comes as no surprise that the menu will impress. Open sandwiches, breakfast choices, freshly made pizza and the Olive Tree Burger are just a few examples from the brunch menu. The evening menu consists of dishes designed to tantalise the tastebuds and options include; spaghetti carbonara, Cornish lamb cooked in red wine for 5 hours, 8oz sirloin steak and freshly made pizza. The desserts are equally as tempting and with treacle tart & clotted cream, ice cream and more, it would be wise to leave room for an afters! There is also a daily specials board offering even more delectable delights. Open for brunch from 10.30 Fri, Sat and Sun, Dinner from 6.30pm Mon and Wed - Sat.
32 BLUE REEF
AQUARIUM
Towan Promenade, Newquay, Cornwall TR7 1DU Tel: 01637 878134 Fax: 01637 872578 website: www.bluereefaquarium.co.uk
Blue Reef Aquarium takes visitors on an undersea voyage that explores the amazing range of marine life from around the world, from the beaches and cliffs of the local Cornish coastline to the spectacular underwater gardens of the Mediterranean and the dazzling beauty of exotic tropical reefs. The centrepiece of the museum is a stunning coral reef display housed in a giant 250,000 litre ocean tank that is home to hundreds of brightly coloured reef fish, puffer fish and black tip reef sharks. This amazing spectacle can be seen from a boardwalk overlooking the atoll, from inside a glass cave or from inside an underwater walkthrough tunnel. Open daily from 10 oclock, the Aquarium has more than 30 living displays - the sea horses and the friendly rays are great favourites and holds regular talks and feeding demonstrations.
142
33 THE FALCON INN

St Mawgan, nr Newquay, Cornwall TR8 4EP Tel: 01637 860225 e-mail: thefalconinnstmawgan@gmail.com
Sarah and David are the innkeepers of The Falcon Inn, offering a warm welcome to all. Their wisteria covered inn offers guests a tranquil respite from the bigger cities with quaint outdoor seating overlooking its award winning gardens and further afield; the special conservation area of the Vale of Lanherne. Inside, the inn sports traditional dcor, with large open fireplaces and scrubbed wooden furniture, harping back to its origins as a 16th century inn. Sarah and David are passionate about food, and serve up a handsome a la carte menu along side bar meals. Their signature dish is the steak and blue cheese pie, although the menu also offers a whole host of fresh fish, vegetarian and traditional Cornish delicacies. Their wine menu is extensive and carefully chosen to compliment the food, whilst ale lovers will be contented with the three real ales available from the famous St Austell Brewery. A guest ale is forever rotating, ensuring that guests are always offered something new to try. For many, The Falcon Inn is so much more than somewhere to enjoy a fine glass of wine and a good meal; its the perfect spot to base their holiday. Just five minutes from Newquay Airport (not on flight path), it has convenient access with Sarah and David offering airport transfers. There are two en suite rooms either a twin or a double both of which have been awarded 4 AA stars.
34 LAPPA VALLEY STEAM RAILWAY

St Newlyn East, nr Newquay, Cornwall TR8 5HZ Tel: 01872 510317 website: www.lappavalley.co.uk
Lappa Valley Steam Railway is one of the most popular attractions in the whole county, offering a great day out for families. The centrepiece is the 15" gauge steam railway that runs through beautiful countryside from Benny Halt to East Wheal Rose, but there are two other, tinier railways, one of them featuring a miniature Intercity 125. The site provides a good habitat for wildlife, and other attractions include nature trails, woodland walks, a nine-hole golf course, a boating lake, a brick path maze, play areas, coffee and gift shops and old mine engine house.
143
35 THE SMUGGLERS DEN

Trebellan, Cubert, Newquay, Cornwall TR8 5PY Tel: 01637 830209 e-mail: info@thesmugglersden.co.uk website: www.thesmugglersden.co.uk
Simon Hancock has been in the hospitality trade for over twenty years, owning various fine establishments throughout Cornwall. His current venture is The Smugglers Den, found in the glorious countryside outside Newquay in Trebellan. Its popular with local dog walkers, ramblers and tourists owing to its location just five minutes drive from the long sandy beaches at Holywell where coastal paths and water sports are in abundance. The Den itself is a real olde worlde treasure with the original thatched roof and log burners dating back over five hundred years. Guests can enjoy a cosy snug in the bar area with an excellent range of wines, spirits and real ales to choose from, or take a pew outside on one of the inns two terraces which offer uninterrupted rural views. In the summer months Simon offers various outdoor BBQs, but always operates a first class menu if you dont fancy that. The cuisine is of a contemporary British style, with dishes packed full of locally sourced produce and a daily changing specials board. Favourites include pan roasted venison loin, steamed River Fowey mussels and the Primrose Herd pork tasting plate. Simon also offers a large and elegant function room for all special occasions which sports beautiful views of its own. Please call for details.
144
36 THE BOWGIE INN

West Pentire, Crantock, Newquay, Cornwall TR8 5SE Tel: 01637 830363 e-mail: bowgie@btconnect.com website: www.bowgie.com
The Bowgie Inn has been owned by The Pickles family for over forty years. Aside from a friendly atmosphere and a warm welcome, the biggest attraction is the Bowgies location. It sits on West Pentire Headland overlooking Crantock Beach with unrivalled views of the Goose Rock and the North Atlantic Coast. The panoramic views reach as far as Trevose Lighthouse on a clear day and at night you can see the light. The sandy beach is perfect for swimming, surfing and sunbathing, attracting visitors throughout the year. The South West Coastal Footpath passes through the grounds of the Bowgie, along the cliffs. The Bowgie will be on your route if you are walking the Coastal Path or if you walk the Newquay-Perranporth section. There are also short walks around the headland, across the Gannel Estuary and to Polly Joke Beach and Holywell. Most of the neighbouring land belongs to the National Trust and is a haven for wild birds and flowers. The Bowgie is a popular Lunch venue for walkers and hikers to stop off to enjoy much needed refreshments throughout the year. The Bowgie Boasts a large decked dining area during the summer, with uninterrupted views of Crantock Bay, blessing all who sit there with stunning sunsets on balmy summer evenings. There is lots of outdoor space on the lawn which overlooks the beach too, and ample parking. Inside the Bowgie, guests would be forgiven for thinking they were still outside. The view is as dramatic from the bar, looking out through the vast picture windows and patio doors, showcasing Cornwall at its best. A traditional Pig Sty Bar with beamed ceilings and traditional furnishings, compliment the natural feel of the outside whilst offering a cosy spot to enjoy a meal or a drink. The bar is always well stocked with various lagers, Cornish Real Ales, Wines, Spirits, a Large Selection of Soft Drinks and Hot Drinks from Teas, Coffees, Hot Chocolates and your favourite Liquor Coffee. So whatever your poison, you are sure to be well attended. The Bowgie has a thriving restaurant, which offers traditional pub food, specialising in homemade dishes. Favourites include homemade quiches, lasagne, pies, vegetarian dishes and Steaks. In the winter months a selection of Winter Warmers are included as deals on the menu, offering extra value, guaranteed to repel the cold after a blustery winter walk on the beach. In the winter the fire is always roaring. Winter or summer it is great for watching the surfers and the waves. Lunch is served Daily from 11-2.30pm and Evening Meals are served from 6-9pm ish. On Sundays, meals are served all day including Sunday Roasts. Open Daily, Open All Year, Open all Day from 11am.
145
37 ST AGNES HOTEL
Churchtown, St Agnes, Cornwall TR5 0QP Tel: 01872 552307 Fax: 01872 553114 e-mail: info@st-agnes-hotel.co.uk website: www.st-agnes-hotel.co.uk
Situated opposite the church in the heart of the village, The St Agnes Hotel offers quality en-suite accommodation on a bed and breakfast or full board basis, at reasonable rates. Friendly owners Bill and Di have created an ideal base for walkers, surfers and beach lovers alike. They even offer a luggage delivery service for walkers of the coastal path, so that guests can enjoy their walking holiday, safe in the knowledge that their bags will be waiting for them at their next destination. There are six tastefully decorated en suite bedrooms, each with remote control television, central heating and tea & coffee making facilities. There are a variety of double bedrooms to choose from, including a large family room, and most have views of the St Agnes church and village high street. English or continental breakfast is served in the dining room between 8.00 am and 11.30 am using fresh local produce. The food here is outstanding and a team of professional chefs have created a superb menu to entice guests as well as passerbys. All the dishes are cooked on the premises, with the exception of the ice-cream (which is made locally) and the bread (baked over the road in the St Agnes Bakery). Guests can expect to see dishes such as pasta of the day, baked cod fillet, steamed local mussels, char-grilled Cornish rib eye steak and plenty more. The AGGIE Cornish breakfast is served from 9am 12 noon (Monday - Sunday), New Lunch Specials are served from 12 - 2.30pm (Monday - Saturday) and Dinner is served from 6.30 - 9.00 (Monday - Sunday). The hotel caters for weddings, christenings, birthdays or any other excuse to throw a party. The dining room is available for hire for private functions, whether it is for a sit down wedding function, a birthday buffet or a conference with tea/coffee & biscuits. There is also a new decking area, which has already been booked for various functions ranging from weddings and christenings, to barbeques and buffets all in the sunshine (with a giant parasol for when the weather cant be guaranteed). The hotel is dog and child friendly, and Molly the chocolate labrador is often on hand to meet and greet guests.
146
38 LITTLE TREVELLAS FARM

Trevellas, St Agnes, Cornwall TR5 0XX Tel: 01872 552945 e-mail: velvetcrystal@xln.co.uk website: www.stagnesbandb.co.uk
Ideally located for Cornish holidaymakers between the town of Perranporth and idyllic St Agnes on the North Cornwall coast is Little Trevellas Farm. Guests are welcomed by owner Mary Andrew, who has been running a three star bed and breakfast for many years now. Nestled amongst the rolling hills, the bed and breakfast affords guests glorious views with comfy beds, en suite facilities and free wifi. Guests are served delicious homemade breakfasts by Mary, cooked with produce from Little Trevellas Farm itself. Guests have the opportunity to visit the farm and get to know some of its friendlier animals.
39 FOWEY HARBOUR COTTAGES

3 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AH Tel: 01726 832211 Fax: 01726 832901 e-mail: hillandson@talk21.com website: www.foweyharbourcottages.co.uk
Fowey is an extremely historical town with lots of character and charm. Its nearby harbour is one of the finest natural harbours in the world and the water sporting facilities, which take place here, entice a large number of tourists every year. Fowey Harbour Cottages provide a number of self-catering properties, throughout Fowey and nearby Polruan, sleeping between 4 and 6 people in a variety of beautifully decorated accommodations- from bungalows and cottages to town apartments. A number of the properties have gardens or patios and include all the mod cons that you would expect to find in a top quality holiday home. Fowey is the perfect place to visit for the crisp country air as many of the holiday homes are surrounded by cliffs and countryside, run by the National Trust, meaning that the area is very popular with walkers. A short connecting passenger ferry is available to travel in to polruan, where the village boasts some lovely restaurants and shops, making the holiday homes here perfect for those wishing to have a tranquil getaway, just a stones throw away from everything they may require.
147
40 RESTORMEL CASTLE
Off the A390, 1 miles north of Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 0DB Tel: 01208 872687 website: www.english-heritage.org.uk
High on a moated mound overlooking the River Fowey, Restormel Castle is one of the former strongholds of the Earls of Cornwall, whose number included Edward, the Black Prince. Dating from the 11th century, it was one of the first motte and bailey castles to be raised in the West Country, and in the next century its original wooden defences were replaced with stone and a full set of domestic buildings added. In 1272 Restormel was inherited by Edmund of Almaine, Earl of Cornwall, whose builders constructed a miniature palace within its walls; this provided lavish accommodation for the Earl and his guests, who could look out on to a deer park created for their favourite pursuit. The Black Prince stayed here in 1354 and 1365, but with the loss of Gascony soon after, most of the contents of value were removed, and the Castle fell into ruin. Today, the ruins survive in this tranquil hilltop setting; in spring the banks are covered in daffodils and bluebells, and in summer the site is one of the best picnic spots in Cornwall, boasting stunning views of the peaceful countryside.
41 BELLAMAMA DELI
Fore Street, Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 0BL Tel: 01637 860225 e-mail: bellamama.deli@virgin.net
Located in the picturesque town of Lostwithiel, is the much acclaimed Bellamama deli. The deli offers a cornucopia of all things tempting to do with food. Chorizos and dried chillis hang from the ceiling and the smell of fresh bread and Origin coffee tempts you in. The deli stocks a wonderful range of cheeses both local and continental, alongside ready to slice charcuterie, artisan breads, antipasto & olives, coffee, wine, local beers & ciders and offers a selection of fabulous homemade pies and bespoke sandwiches to take away. Friday nights, the deli produces wonderful stone baked Pizzas to take away and during the summer, Sue cooks massive paellas outside the deli, ask in the shop for dates..theyre well worth a visit!
42 ROOMS AT POLGASSICK
Polgassick, Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 0HY Tel: 01208 873503
If you enjoy the experience of Bellamama deli, you will love the rooms Sue has to offer for bed & breakfast at her delightful home Polgassick, found just a mile outside of Lostwithiel. There are two beautifully presented ensuite bedrooms which have been tastefully decorated and offer above and beyond the usual necessities. Guests can start their day with a fantastic Full English created using locally sourced produce and free range eggs, or enjoy a continental breakfast prepared from food from the deli. It doesnt get much better than this.
148
43 THE PARADE
9A Parade Square, Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 0DX Tel: 01208 871148 e-mail: elizabeth@theparadegallery.com
The Parade is situated at the bottom of the main street in Lostwithiel, down by the river. It is a lifestyle boutique packed to the rafters with an expertly curated selection of contemporary art, a mix of fashions and gifts. Formally an art galley, The Parade has been open for over eight years now as a lifestyle boutique and still manages to delight and surprise its customers with its ever changing beautiful pieces fashion labels, such as; Part Two, ShereFemale, Jack Pot, Elafin, Nougat, Johny Loves Rosie and In Wear jewellery, plus beautiful bags by Orla Kiely. The boutique boasts a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere, surrounded by the latest fashion, with a chic London edge. Works by local artists, such as James Foot, adorn the walls a must see on any visit to Lostwithiel.
44 COLLON BARTON
Lerryn, Lostwithiel, Cornwall PL22 ONX Tel: 01208 872908 e-mail: annemackie@btconnect.com
Lerryn lies on the banks of the River Fowey; its tree-lined beauty and abundance of birds and wildlife making it a popular place to visit for lovers of the outdoors. Just 25 minutes from Fowey itself, its also a convenient base for exploring the shops, restaurants and cafes in the surrounding area. A five minute stroll from Lerryn, which is noted for its riverside walks, is Collon Barton bed and breakfast, a mid 18th century farmhouse full of period character. The house offers stunning views overlooking the river and across the rolling countryside, offering its guests a haven of tranquillity with plenty of sheltered areas and a summer house in the grounds in which to relax and read. There are four rooms to choose from, three of which have en suite facilities. Guests are invited to enjoy either full English or continental breakfasts served in the farmhouse kitchen by owner Anne Mackie, who loves to serve her guests at the large slate topped dining table. Collon Barton is a working sheep farm and Annie and her husband Iain welcome guests with young families to take a tour of the farm and feed the animals. Booking is essential throughout the year. Closeby is the Eden Project (20mins) and other well known gardens.
149
45 THE WHITE PYRAMID

Trewoon, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 5TQ Tel: 01726 68047 e-mail: thewhitepyramid@hotmail.co.uk website: www.thewhitepyramid.co.uk
Local woman Andrea Payton and her family run The White Pyramid in the pretty village of Trewoon, just outside St Austell. Andreas warmth of character brings the pub to life, welcoming not only her many family and friends who frequent the pub, but new visitors to the area. Over the past year Andrea has fully refurbished the inn to a very high standard and now can offer her guests a beautiful function room for up to eighty guests, an elegant dining area with its own bar, and of course the main bar area, which has a very cosy feel. Outside a well maintained childrens play area has a selection of slides and swings to amuse children at the inn, whilst parents can sit back and enjoy a restful drink on the outdoor terrace overlooking it. Andrea offers an excellent array of real ales, lagers, wines and spirits, alongside a well established menu of fine British food. Dishes range from Stilton and garlic mushrooms and salmon and coriander fishcakes to sizzling platters and a selection of juicy local steaks. Four guest bedrooms are also available for guests wanting to make The White Pyramid their base, with two double rooms and two family rooms on offer, both with full en suite facilities. With various local attractions like the Eden Project, historic Charlestown and the beautiful Carlyon Bay just a short drive away, its the perfect Cornish getaway.
46 THE KINGS ARMS

Bridges, Luxulyan, Cornwall PL30 5EF Tel: 01726 850202 e-mail: krstocker@gmail.com
The Kings Arms is set in the lush countryside surrounding Luxulyan Valley and is known for being the closest pub to Cornwalls best attraction; the Eden Project. Built in handsome Cornish granite, the Kings was originally a coaching inn, later becoming one of St Austell Brewerys earliest pubs. It remains the heart of its community, hosting a variety of charity events with support from local patrons. Today visitors can enjoy a warm welcome from the inns hosts Keith and Patricia Stocker who delight in providing a fun and friendly atmosphere for all. The Kings Arms has plenty of charm with an old wood burning stove, walls adorned with old village photos and traditional farming implements. Guests can also make use of the inns dartboard and league standard pool table for a leisurely after dinner game. The menu is varied and includes many home made dishes including traditional favourites like steak and ale pie and rabbit casserole. Dishes are prepared by professional and student chefs, one of whom has recently been awarded best student of the year at the local catering college. The public house has also been Cask Marque accredited, tribute to the beautifully cask conditioned ales it keeps from the famous St Austell Brewery. Guinness and Cornish Rattler cider are also available on draught, with plenty of soft drinks and non-alcoholic beers available for drivers.
150
47 THE SHIPWRECK & HERITAGE CENTRE

Charlestown, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 3NJ Tel: 01726 69897 e-mail: admin@shipwreckcharlestown.com website: www.shipwreckcharlestown.com
The Centre is housed in an old clay dry built on top of the tunnel formly used to transport clay to the harbour and through which you can still walk. The tunnel leads to a viewing gallery where one of the best views of Charlestown harbour can be enjoyed. It is estimated that there are 3000 wrecks around the coast of Cornwall and the centre has an amazing collection of artefacts and memorabilia from some of them. One of the most famous shipwrecks of all time was the Titanic and the displays include letters from Frederick James Banfield, born in Helston in 1884, who perished in the disaster, along with various Titanic artefacts. The Diving Display portrays underwater scenes of salvage and rescue and has an array of diving suits and apparatus. Treasure and artefacts from around 200 wrecks can be seen such as muskets, coins, telescopes, candlesticks, pieces of eight and even a large consignment of Chinese porcelain. The shop sells a wide selection of maritime souvenirs, coins and treasure for the children, as well as fudge, cards, books and Titanic memorabilia. Above the Centre, with splendid views of the harbour, is the Bosuns Diner where refreshments are available.
48 ATISHOO DESIGNS
71 Charlestown Road, Charlestown, St. Austell, Cornwall PL25 3NL Tel: 01726 65900 e-mail: enquiries@atishoodesigns.co.uk website: www.atishoodesigns.co.uk
Atishoo Designs is a contemporary arts and crafts gallery situated in the village of Charlestown, a designated World Heritage Site and home to three working tall ships. The gallery exhibits work by more than eighty artists and designer makers, many based in the South West of England, and is owned and run by artist couple Liz Hackney and Paul Clark. Located in a converted barn, the building was for some thirty years the former village butchers shop before being opened as a gallery by Liz and her family in 2003. The downstairs shop has an interesting selection of prints, pottery, jewellery, crafts and cushions with a quirky coastal theme. Upstairs is a larger exhibition space showing paintings by artists including Alan Arthurs, Lamorna Penrose and David Wheeler, as well as a studio space for Liz and Paul. Atishoo Designs is a little off the beaten track, but well worth the five minute walk up the hill from the beautiful Georgian harbour, down a little lane opposite the Old Charlestown Chapel. Open all year: Summer: Mon Sat 10am - 4pm, Winter: Weds Sat. 10am 4pm.
151
49 GRAVY
8 Edward Street, Truro, Cornwall TR1 3AJ Tel: 01872 222237 e-mail: info@gravy-boesti.co.uk website: www.gravy-boesti.co.uk
Stylish and contemporary, Gravy boesti provides a relaxed and comfortable environment for everyone, whether its a time-conscious business lunch or pre-theatre dinner, a relaxed evening meal or simply just getting together with friends. Truros latest dining experience offers traditional, uncomplicated cuisine with a subtle gravy twist and focuses on providing the freshest ingredients sourced locally through renowned suppliers. Owner, Andrew Browning along with Head Chef, Keith Davis have blended traditional ingredients, styles and techniques with some international and individual influences creating unique recipes that are all freshly prepared giving their menu the distinctive Gravy difference. Be sure to try Fresh Eggs The Gravy Way - breakfast is served Monday to Friday from 10am, brunch on Saturdays 10am - 12pm and Sundays 10am - 3pm including Sunday lunches. For lunch, there are Cornish Mussels, fresh from local waters, these mussels are cooked with a delicious combination of white wine, garlic & Chorizo sausage, served with rustic homemade bread and garnished with fresh bay leaves and orange to give it that extra twist. The seafood is caught daily, therefore occasionally Gravy may substitute their core menu with other exciting specials subject to availability. For dinner why not try Gravys homemade lean beef burger, prime beef mince, locally sourced and blended with our own recipe of onion & fresh thyme served on ciabatta bread with a homemade cornichon mayonnaise, fresh rocket, tomato, crushed oven baked peppercorns and a Cornish smoked cheese with a side of our very own hand cut oven baked seasoned chunky chips. The restaurant also boasts an enclosed outside area for those seeking the al fresco experience during the warmer months. Serving food throughout the day, Gravy is an ideal location for any occasion at any time.
152
50 THE HERON INN

Malpas, nr Truro, Cornwall TR1 1SL Tel: 01872 272773 e-mail: theheron@hotmail.co.uk website: www.heroninn.co.uk
Imagine yourself relaxing in the early evening sun overlooking the confluence of where the rivers Fal, Tresillian and Truro meet, sipping an ice cold glass of white wine and enjoying the classic Cornish taste of a bowl of steaming mussels cooked just the way you like them. This is whats in store for guests who visit The Heron Inn in Malpas. Malpas is a picturesque village less than two miles from Truro city centre, offering visitors unrivalled river views , glorious countryside walks and the kind of idyllic charm only Cornwall can offer. The Heron finds itself ideally located at the end of a particularly pretty riverside walk form Truro city centre, where at its end having worked up a thirst, guests can indulge in the truly delectable food and drink on offer there. Alternatively its only five minutes in the car. Owners Karen and Jonathan Berg offer an excellent range of homemade food using the finest locally sourced ingredients. Their menu is carefully designed, using only the best local produce to create the best flavours of Cornwall. Their passion for using local ingredients stems from a desire to support other local businesses and to do their part for reducing their carbon footprint. All dishes are cooked fresh to order, meaning that any special dietary requirements can be tailored to each dish. They also offer a wide range of special vegetarian and gluten free dishes to make choosing easier. Cornish crab is always in abundance, so fresh crab sandwiches are always on the lunchtime menu. Other popular dishes include local sausages and mash, homemade smoked haddock chowder, fresh fish pie, succulent Cornish lamb chops and steaks, spicy crab cakes , homemade lasagne and a traditional roast dinner on Sundays with gluten free and vegetarian options available. At lunchtime guests can also choose from a tasty variety of filled rolls, paninis and tortilla wraps or light bites such as deep fried whitebait or locally made falafels. The Heron stocks an excellent range of Cornish real ales as well as spirits and great selection of wines, ten of which you can buy by the glass and in three sizes. The inns unrivalled location means that its sunny terrace is a popular spot for having a bite to eat whilst either worshipping the warming rays or relaxingly watching the setting sun. In the winter months the terrace benefits from outdoor heating so the beautiful panorama can be enjoyed year round. Karen and Jonathan also cater for business lunches and encourage guests to use their pre-order service which allows them to have your food served on arrival. They can also cater for a host of events whether for joyful celebration or a more sombre occasion, their staff are welcoming and friendly and are always happy to accommodate. The Heron also hosts its own very popular quiz night on Tuesdays at 8pm from September to mid June, with the entry fee of 1 per person going to the villages spectacular fireworks display in November.
153
51 THE KINGS ARMS

55 Fore Street, Tregony, Truro TR2 5RW Tel: 01872 530202 e-mail: kingstregony@gogglemail.com website: www.staustellbrewery.co.uk/pubs/a-z-of-pubs/191-kings-arms-tregony.html
The historic village of Tregony is the gateway to the Roseland Peninsula and is well known for its Christmas lights and regular pantomimes performed by the local theatre company, making it a vibrant and pleasant spot to visit at any time of year. It has easy access to some of Cornwalls finest locations like the Lost Gardens of Heligan and Caerhays Castle, with passenger ferries running nearby to popular fishing villages like Mevagissey for day trips with plenty of hidden coves and beaches to explore also within a driving distance. A walk around the village itself however also makes for a pleasant afternoon with a gallery, farm shop, antiques shop, and other eclectic stores to peruse. Located at the heart of the village is the charming and traditional Kings Arms. The building itself is a handsome creation with parts dating back as far as the 16th century when it was originally built as a coaching inn for weary travellers and their horses. Today the inn continues to provide much needed refreshments to both locals and visitors making use of some of the peninsulas fabulous walks. Although its owners Darren and Kay Heather have put much effort into retaining the inns traditional features, they have injected a new lease of life, updating facilities throughout in tasteful way. It sports original slate floors and wood panelled walls in two of its dining rooms, and uniquely has an old wishing well inside. This unusual feature is always a hot topic of conversation and is something the Heathers are particularly proud of. They are also proud to have been awarded Cask Marque status and offer ales lovers a wide selection of brews from the famous St Austell Brewery. Darren and Kay also offer a good selection of wines, spirits and soft drinks which can be enjoyed in the inns eye catching patio area and beer garden, perfect in the sunnier summer months. Darren is a chef by trade and has been perfecting his skills for over twenty years. Today he entices customers with his wonderful selection of home cooked meals, including slow roast shin of beef, fillet of salmon, stilton, walnut and spinach quiche, steak and Tribute ale pie, homemade Thai fishcakes and a delicious chicken curry. Light bites are also available as well as a traditional roast which is served each Sunday. Food is served from 12-2pm and 6-9pm seven days a week, but booking is recommended on weekends and in high season to avoid disappointment.
154
52 THE ROSELAND INN

Philleigh, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5NB Tel: 01872 580254 e-mail: contact@roselandinn.co.uk website: www.roselandinn.co.uk
Deep in the heart of Roseland, just a stones throw away from the famous king harry ferry lies The Roseland Inn. Set in the picturesque village of Philleigh this superb olde worlde villiage inn has something to offer everyone. The building is absolutely full of character and charm and features wooden beams throughout as well as other tasteful dcor and a delightful roaring fire, creating a spectacularly warm and inviting ambience. The corner of the inn is dedicated to rugby trophies as this is the local for the Roseland Rugby Club. The atmosphere makes it the perfect location to spend a quiet morning with a coffee, meet friends for a drink or have a leisurely evening meal- no matter what time of day, you will always feel welcome here. Tenants Phil Heslip and Jose Melhuish took over the tenancy at The Roseland Inn in May 2008, becoming the second business that the couple run of the same calibre. The couple also own and run The Victory in the coastal village of St Mawes. Providing visitors with superb, delicious and mouth-watering food, there is space for 30 in the restaurant, as well as space to dine in the bar areas and outside seating available on warmer days. Local produce is used here to create lighter bites of sandwiches packed full of scrumptious fillings, with coleslaw and crisps to garnish as well as starters of scallops, confit of duck leg, served with chorizo mash and a lovely chicken and wild mushroom terrine. Main dishes include venison and cashew nut stew, which is delectable, grilled salmon with char grilled asparagus and a grilled trio of seafish on a mussel and saffron herb cream, which is a favourite. All prices here are reasonable and reflect the wonderful ingredients used. Not only a winner for food, this business is a key location for real ales. Two ales are currently a favourite here, doom bar and betty stogs, however new to the property is the tenants micro brewery, which is situated adjacent to the inn, where the couple produce their own real ale, which is without a doubt going to be a tremendous hit with locals and visitors alike. There are plenty of country and river walks in the local area for those who wish to stretch their legs. The Roseland Inn is open every session throughout the year and open all day on Saturday during the winter and all day everyday in June/ July and August. Food is available daily from 122.30pm and 6.30 and 9pm. Bookings should be made for dining on Sundays as this inn is extremely popular and finding new regulars daily.
155
53 THE ROYAL STANDARD

5 The Square, Gerrans, Portscatho, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5EB Tel: 01872 580271 e-mail: info@royalstandard-gerrans.co.uk or royal_standard_gerrans@msn.com website: www.royalstandard-gerrans.co.uk
The Royal Standard occupies a much coveted position overlooking the glorious Gerrans Bay in Porthscatho just outside Truro. This handsome inn embodies many peoples dream of a traditional Cornish pub; offering the hearty food, drink and great company day in and day out with simply stunning surroundings. The inn itself was built in 1793 by the renowned blacksmith William Pearce, who took it upon himself to erect the building on a piece of wasteland. Mr Pearce acted as the inns first ever landlord, beginning a timeless tradition in the Royal Standard for great hospitality. The inns current owners David and Roberta Mitchell maintain a timeline of all the inns previous landlords right up to the present day. In this way the inn retains a real sense of history, and some of its more traditional features still remain, like the handsome open fireplace, low beamed ceilings and brass memorabilia. Over the years parts of the inn were also used for a school room, a picnic room and a meeting room for the village committee. The inn once also held a skittle alley and had a space for brewing its own beer and stabling horses. Although the inn no longer has brewing facilities, it maintains high regard for the art of ale making and has been awarded Casque Marque status for the quality of ales it keeps. Ale lovers will be pleased to have the opportunity to sample one of Cornwalls most famous exports, Doombar, along with some other favourites from the well known Sharps Brewery, which lies in the small town of Rock. David and Roberta are also proud to offer their guests a delicious Cornish menu, sourcing all their ingredients from the surrounding county. Their local butcher Andy Day provides all the meat including his award winning sausages, whilst Matthew Stevens from St Ives provides all the fresh fish. The menu offers an array of hearty homemade food, with a selection of traditional pies and old fashioned English foods. Dishes include a local Ploughmans, homemade soup, Moules Marinere, fine rump steak and a smoked seafood platter, not forgetting the classic Cornish pasty. Food is served from 12-2pm Tues-Sunday, 6-10:30pm Mon-Thurs, and 6-midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. In winter the inn closes on Monday mornings, but in the summer months guests (and their dogs) are welcomed every day.
156
55 THE OLD QUAY INN

St Johns Terrace, Devoran, Truro, Cornwall TR3 6NE
(between Truro and Falmouth off the A39 - follow the signs from the Devoran roundabout)
Tel: 01872 863142 website: www.theoldquayinn.co.uk

This long established traditional pub, situated at the head of Restronguet Creek in Devoran, adjacent to the coast-to-coast cycle and walking trail, is enjoying a renaissance under new owners Hannah and John Calland. Chef Alex Carlisle, who did some of his training at the Ivy, creates seriously good food weaving together the best of local produce into an imaginative daily specials menu with a modern twist. At the Old Quay Inn we work closely with local suppliers, farmers and fishermen to buy ingredients that are fresh, of the highest quality and low in food miles. We offer a good selection of fresh Cornish fish and the species we use are not from depleted or threatened fish stocks. The young team provide a warm welcome at all times of the day. Meals are served 12 to 3pm and 6 to 9pm, seven days a week. We are open for morning coffee with pastries from 10am, afternoon coffee and cake and Cornish cream tea from Easter to September. There are carefully selected house and table wines and local beers - Cask Marque certified - to enjoy. A large sunny garden, ideal for al fresco dining, could be called Devorans best-kept secret. Dogs and children are welcome. Two double bedrooms for bed & breakfast. Cycle hire from Devoran Creek Cycle Hire available next to the pub. Opening times: Open all day, every day from 11am till late.
157
54 HALWYNS TEA GARDENS

Halwyn, Old Kea, Truro, Cornwall TR3 6AW Tel: 01872 272152 e-mail: sue.s.clark@btconnect.com website: www.halwynteagardens.com
Halwyns Tea Gardens is a real old fashioned tea garden set on the banks of the River Fal. It offers pretty views across to the Roseland Peninsula, but is equally as beautiful in the garden with gorgeous summer blossoms filling the air with bright colours and sweet scents. Many visitors to Halwyn while away the hours sat here peacefully watching the glory of the Cornish countryside unroll before them. The jewel in Halwyns crown is the Dell, a stunning area running down to the river where a breeze house and small beach await. Whilst relaxing, guests can enjoy a light lunch or a cup of loose tea in one of owner Sues special bone china tea cups. The cottage was just a shell when Roy and Sue took over and since then they have lovingly restored it to the quaint reminder of years gone by it is today. Sympathetically decorated in cottage style, its much loved by all those who visit. Sue also offers her guests the choice of one of her delicious homemade cakes, or one of her mouth watering scones with clotted cream and jam. She also stocks Calestick ice cream, and various cold drinks for the young at heart, with ginger beer being a particular favourite. Halwyn can be booked for private functions and tea parties. Otherwise Sue opens 11am-5pm everyday from the end of April to the end of September subject to weather.
57 FINN MCOULS
1 Killigrew Street, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3PG Tel: 01326 318653
Helen Congdon has been running the Irish pub Finn MCouls for the past eleven years, creating a hearty tradition for good craic within the buzzing Falmouth community. Situated in a prime position opposite the Prince of Wales Pier, its convenient for those not just from Falmouth, but for those from the quaint fishing villages of St Mawes and Flushing over on the Roseland Peninsula which is easily accessed by the passenger ferries from the pier. Finn MCouls itself is a beautiful, traditional granite fronted building that dates back to the 18th century. Helen holds some handsome sepia photographs of the building from years gone by when it was just as popular for the perfect pint of Guinness as it is today. Inside, Finns is spaciously laid out over two floors with a glorious open fires for those cold winter days and nights. Helen encourages all to step inside and warm up with a seasonal glass of mulled wine in winter, or cool down with a jug of Pimms in the warmer summer months. Although no food is on offer, Finns unusually encourage guests to bring their own food in to enjoy with their drinks and heavily recommends the delicious pasty shop next door! Finns opens daily from 10am 1am from Monday to Saturday, and from noon to midnight on Sundays. She offers a fun and friendly atmosphere for both staff and guests, with a strong local following. Three or four nights a week Helen puts on live music with a variety of local touring bands and singers.
158
56 TREGENNA GUEST HOUSE

28 Melvill Road, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 4AR Tel: 01326 313881 e-mail: info@tregennafalmouth.co.uk website: www.tregennafalmouth.co.uk
The popular harbour town of Falmouth has plenty to offer tourists and locals alike. Part of the appeal that draws visitors time and time again, is Tregenna; a small, family run guest house. The guest house is midway between the town, local beaches, docks and busy harbour, making it the perfect choice for those who wish to be close to the sea. The premises insures unbeatable comfort and is centrally heated, double glazed and fully insulated, allowing guests to enjoy a warm, cosy atmosphere during the winter months. There are eight comfortable, homely rooms, many of which enjoy delightful harbour or sea views. All but one of the bedrooms are ensuite, and all have their own hand basin, shower facilities, shaving point, flatscreen TV with Freeview, hair dryer and tea and coffee making facilities. Other house facilities include a spacious conservatory with lounge area, TV with Freeview, DVD player and free WiFi access. To the side of the house there is a covered decked area with seating and lighting, and parking is available for guests. Guests can enjoy a wonderful breakfast between 8am 9am, with a choice of cereals and a Full English using quality, local produce.
CASTLE BEACH CAF

Cliff Road, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 4NZ Tel: 01326 313881 e-mail: info@castlebeachcafe.co.uk website: www.castlebeachcafe.co.uk
A warm welcome awaits visitors to Castle Beach Caf in Falmouth. Attentive hosts Steve and Jayne Gray bought the caf in 2010 and have created a relaxed haven in which to dine. The caf is set in an idyllic location and enjoys stunning views of Falmouth Bay and Pendennis Castle. Providing hot and cold drinks, ice creams, pasties, paninis, sandwiches and light meals, diners will be spoilt for choice. There is a large sundeck area, together with a timber framed canopy with tables and chairs. The shop sells buckets and spades and also provides deck chair hire. There is also free broadband Wi-Fi available to customers. So why not bring your laptop and relax in the sun over tea, coffee or a light meal.
159
58 PEA SOUK
19C Well Lane, Church Street, Falmouth TR11 3EG Tel: 01326 317583 e-mail: pinnersohmigod2000@yahoo.co.uk
Tucked away off the main street, youll find Pea Souk. This quirky place offers a vibrant dining environment with mismatched furniture, bright scatter cushions and an eclectic mix of artwork. Its run by Nicola Willis, a woman truly passionate about making good vegetarian food, even being Cordon Vert qualified. She offers scrumptious vegetarian and vegan meals all cooked fresh to order using the very best in locally sourced produce. Her dishes concentrate on Middle Eastern flavours with Mezze being a specialty. Favourites include roasted vegetable tarts, homemade cakes, gorgeous heart warming soups, salads and snacks. Open Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm and 7-11pm in the evenings with advance bookings.
59 NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

Discovery Quay, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3QY Tel: 01326 313388 Fax: 01326 317878 e-mail: enquiries@nmmc.co.uk website: www.nmmc.co.uk
The National Maritime Museum has been designed for broad appeal, with a wide range of hands-on displays, a superb collection of small boats, demonstrations of boat-building, lectures, a research library, a meteorology gallery, remote-control scale-model boats, exhibitions that tell the story of Cornwalls unique maritime heritage and a waterside caf. For many, the highlight will naturally be the Museums collection of 120 historic British and international boats, many of which had been in storage for years; these are supplemented by contemporary vessels, prototypes and future designs. 30 of these craft will routinely be sailed from the NMMCs own jetties.
160
60 MISS PEAPODS
Jubilee Wharf, Penryn, Cornwall TR10 8FG Tel: 01326 374424 e-mail: info@misspeapod.co.uk website: www.misspeapod.co.uk
This multi-award winning caf just goes from strength to strength, having recently scooped a silver award from Taste of the West and a gold award from Cornwalls tourism awards so this secret is well and truly out! Its perched overlooking the picturesque Penryn estuary with lovely views of wildlife and boats on down towards the towns of Falmouth and Flushing. Miss Peapods is found within easy reach of the centre of Penryn, a beautiful 18th century market town, made thriving by the colourful university population that resides within it. The cafe strikes a balance between the comfort of home cooking and Mediterranean sensibilities. They often make their own pasta and bread and exploit all the seafood and seasonal produce brought to them by local suppliers and fishermen. Speciality dishes include handmade crab ravioli, whole lemon sole grilled in caper butter or local steaks with hand cut chips and their own pepper sauce. For people with simpler tastes, they have some homemade burgers with chips and toasted ciabattas or sandwiches with fillings such as seasonal vegetables and their own recipe butter bean houmous. There is an excellent range of mouth watering puddings such as chocolate orange mousse or rhubarb cheesecake, not to mention all their cakes which are baked fresh each day. They offer a wide range of classic cakes such as lemon drizzle, walnut and coffee and a special gluten free chocolate brownie. Comfortable sofa corners allow for private lunches and cosy coffees and there is free wifi for those needing to catch up online or have a meeting. Children are also well provided for with lots of wooden toys and a play kitchen with a quality, simple menu to match. Food is served every day except Monday, opening between 10am-4pm. Friday evenings is the special food night with the kitchen firing up between 7-9pm. Booking is recommended as there is always some light entertainment on, in the shape of a local musician or two, warming you up for the Saturday night gig which hosts a lively diary of events; see website for the latest listings. Housed within the unique Jubilee Wharf complex, this caf benefits from pioneering eco-features and is an interesting place to visit. It was designed by the Z.E.D factory, Bill Dunster innovative award winning eco-architects practice, and there is eye-catching windmills and a handsome wooden decking surrounding the caf outside with plenty of seating for lazy summer lunches.
161
61 THE PORTREATH ARMS

The Square, Portreath, Redruth, Cornwall TR16 4LA Tel: 01209 842259 e-mail: portreatharmshotel@aol.com
Set in a beautifully picturesque seaside village of Portreath is a former sea captains residence named The Porthreath Arms Hotel. Now one of the finest inns/hotels in Cornwall, this property became a licensed premises in 1872. It offers comfortable and relaxing bed and breakfast accommodation, as well as excellent home cooked food. Owned and personally run by Sharon Austin for the past 14 years, Sharon has a beautifully decorated building, which is eye-catching both inside and out. With its own parking at the front of the property, the building is grand with large windows, which provide plenty of light in to the lounge and bar on the ground floor and the seven bedrooms on the first floor. The seven guest rooms have a mixture of sizes, ranging from double, twin and family bedrooms, which are all tastefully decorated and equipped with all the mod cons you would expect to find in a top quality accommodation, including ensuite bathrooms in five of the bedrooms. The tariff includes a choice of full English or continental breakfast, both of which are delicious. Food is available in the dining room or lounge bar for both residents and nonresidents and is served daily from 12-2pm and 6-9pm. The dining room seats 20 and is light and airy, providing a great atmosphere in which to eat your meal. A team of three chefs each add their own personal touches to the board menu, which is suitable for a number of different tastes. Light meals and salads are available as well as jacket potatoes and sandwiches. Main meals are extremely popular and include pan-fried garlic mushrooms and calamari for starters, lamb cutlets and fillet steak from the grill or chilli con carne and nut roast from the main menu. Homemade pies and fish dishes are a speciality here as a majority of the produce used is sourced locally. The fully stocked bar here offers a wide selection of real ales, up to 4 in fact, including abbot ale, sharps special and rotating guest ales, 2/3 of which are usually a Cornish brew, fitting in nicely with the surroundings.
162
62 THE MELTING POT
KROWJI
The Old Grammar School, Redruth, Cornwall TR15 3AJ Tel: 07915 252757 e-mail: info@themeltingpotcafe.co.uk website: www.themeltingpotcafe.co.uk
Serving delicious, honest homemade food, excellent coffee and a wide range of drinks in its fully licensed bar, The Melting Pot is a hidden gem of a cafe found in the heart of Cornwalls largest creative hub. Ben, the owner, has strong links with the creative industry both locally and internationally having had a performing arts background. Ben brings all his unique style and creativitiy to The Melting Pot and some have said that the quirky shabby-chic atmosphere and decor is more reminiscent of a place in Berlin, Brighton or Amsterdam. There is internet access and WiFi, plus meeting rooms available for hire with whiteboards, screens and projectors. The cafe is available for private hire and Ben and his team can also provide catering for off-site events, as well as entertaining at the cafe with frequest music nights. At any given time, a visit to The Melting Pot may have you rubbing shoulders with film-makers, creative artists, musicians and many more. A warm welcome awaits you, so get down to The Melting Pot for a truly once in a lifetime experience.
64 CARWINION HOUSE
Carwinion Road, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 5JA Tel: 01326 250258
A trip to Carwinion is a treat for all ages, with 14 acres of peaceful unmanicured grounds to explore, fascinating sculptures and an impressive jungle of bamboo, the ideal setting for a game of hide and seek. The elegant 18th Century stone manor house offers the perfect bed-and-breakfast retreat where guests are looked after by lady of the manor Jane Rogers, and the West Wing provides a charming self catering getaway. During the summer months, the garden is host to a variety of family-friendly events, from outdoor theatre to plant sales, art installations to garden open days. Carwinion is dog friendly and welcomes visitors throughout the year.
163
63 THE BREA INN

Higher Brea, Camborne, Cornwall TR14 9DA Tel: 01209 713706 website: www.thebreainn.co.uk
The Brea Inn is the heartbeat of a tiny village a mile or so off the A3047 east of Camborne in the heart of the Cornish tin mining district. It was originally built as a mine-captains house in the 18th century, and the look within is delightfully traditional, with stone walls, copper, brass, old farming and industrial implements, pictures and books. In this welcoming setting, attentive owner Marcus Cole has made many friends with the locals and continues to welcome new custom to his property daily. Three real ales head the list of drinks served in the bar, and superb cooking is served from 129pm daily. On Saturday you can visit the inn and start the day with a hearty breakfast from 11am. On Sundays a traditional roast is served from 124pm, and regular evening meals resume from 48pm. The regular printed menu is supplemented by a list of daily specials, including a wealth of vegetarian options, and an excellent gluten free menu with some vegan options too. Lighter options are also available for those with a smaller appetite, including burgers, sandwiches, baguettes and the well known Ploughmans. Tempting afternoon tea is served daily from 36pm. All are welcome to join in the various themed evenings Marcus offers. Monday is Pie Day, Tuesday is Steak Night, Thursday is Curry Night, Friday is Fish Night and these are all at special prices. Children are very welcome, as are dogs and even horses, which can be secured just outside the inn. The inn also has an enclosed beer garden and ample off road parking for convenience. Visitors looking to explore the local area a little more can enjoy a stay at the inn which offers one en suite guest bedroom, sporting glorious views of the village and surrounding countryside. Local landmarks include Carn Brea, a 750 granite hill, and after a little fresh air and exercise, the staff at Brea Inn are ready with a smile and something to quench thirst and satisfy an appetite. In the winter months a roaring fire provides a cost respite from the colder weather, and as legend has it, the inns resident ghost. Whatever the case, a visit to this friendly hostelry will not disappoint.
164
65 TREVARNO ESTATE AND GARDENS

Trevarno, Crowntown, nr Helston, Cornwall TR13 0RU Tel: 01326 574274 Fax: 01326 574282 e-mail: info@trevarno.co.uk website: www.trevarno.co.uk
The jewel in the crown, at the heart of the estate, is 70 acres of enchanting gardens and grounds featuring one of Cornwalls largest and most diverse plant collections set within magnificent formal, informal and woodland areas. The gardens include numerous specimen shrubs and trees, a stunning bluebell valley, ornamental lake with picturesque Victorian Boathouse and formal cascade, Sunken Italian Garden, Serpentine Yew Tunnel, extensive Pinetum, Bamboo collection, atmospheric Rockery and Grotto, the Great Lawn and Summer Terrace and many other interesting features. Restoration has been ongoing at Trevarno for the past ten years and current projects include the upper Walled Garden, Gothic Potting Shed attached to the lower Walled Garden, and a recently uncovered ancient carriage driveway. A remarkable celebration of Britains gardening heritage can be found in the National Museum of Gardening, which features the countrys largest and most comprehensive collection of gardening antiques, memorabilia and ephemera.A wide range of handmade soaps and skincare products are produced using the purest plant oils and materials available and visitors can sample the products, which are available for sale, in the Organic Herbal Workshop. Refreshments are available in the Fountain Garden Conservatory and there is a childrens adventure play are. A 2km walk takes you through the estate and offers excellent views.
67 THE FIVE PILCHARDS INN

Porthallow, St Keverne, Helston, Cornwall TR12 6PP Tel: 01326 280256 website: www.thefivepilchards.co.uk
At The Five Pilchards Inn in Porthallow you will receive a warm welcome from Landlord David Lambrick a former St Keverne Farmer and award winning Cheesemaker. Food at The Five Pilchards is unsurprisingly one of its main attractions, specialising in excellent quality locally sourced fish dishes. All ingredients are sourced from local suppliers and farmers with fresh mussels being caught in the bay and sea salt being produced just around the corner. The beach literally begins outside the inns front door making it the perfect location for relaxing and enjoying the beautiful sea views, or taking in the surrounding glorious countryside. It is also a fantastic base for exploring the local dive sites or coastal walks as the halfway marker of the South West Coastal Footpath sits on this beach. The Inn is steeped in history, which is more than abundant upon entering the premises which features a wonderful display of nautical artefacts. All year round you can taste a good range of real ales and enjoy the inns traditional Cornish charm. David and his wife Lynn also offer newly refurbished en suite guest bedrooms and a self contained apartment so you can take your time to explore this beautiful part of Cornwall.
165
66 THE GWEEK INN

Gweek, Helston, Cornwall TR12 6TU Tel: 01326 221502 e-mail: info@gweekinn.com website: www.gweekinn.com
Located at the head of the Helford river in this pretty little village with its working boat yard and quay and woodland walks. The Gweek Inn offers a warm welcome to visitors, fine food with an emphasis on sourcing local produce, fish shellfish wild game and meats, real ales and a village pub atmosphere, we also have a separate restaurant with a quieter dining experience. Steve and Debbie took over the Gweek Inn in March 2009with a view to add their personal touch. Their success resulted them in taking on head chef Mick Gilbert who along with his excellent fish skills and homemade standards such as pies, Lasagnes he also adds to the mix with his experience of oriental cuisine seeing Chinese and Indian specialities added to the menu. Light lunches, cream teas and our highly acclaimed Sunday Carvery have proved ever popular. With the National seal sanctuary a few minutes walk away a policy of staying open for food all day 12 noon to 9.00pm has been appreciated by families looking to feed the little ones. Since our last entry in the guide we have attained the cask marquee for our Cornish real ales and cellar management. The surrounding area offers an abundance of attractions to visit including Flambards, Culdrose, Poldark mine and Goonhilly earth station, with beautiful gardens to visit all around.Bring the dogs they are most welcome, come in and plan your days activities with a bite to eat or just relax with a pimms !!
166
69 THE TOP HOUSE INN

The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall, TR12 7NQ Tel: 01326 290974 e-mail: mail@thetophouselizard.co.uk website: www.thetophouselizard.co.uk
The Top House Inn is Englands most southerly Inn and is full of character and local history retaining the charm of its roots as a traditional rural Cornish Inn. Located in the heart of The Lizard village the Inn offers a warm atmosphere from James and Donna Glosby, and an enthusiastic team of staff who share a passion for great customer service and for providing a friendly environment for our locals and visitors alike. The Lizard is one of the most beautiful coastal settings in Cornwall and being so close to the coastal path there are lots of lovely walks close by with breathtaking views. The Lizard village sees visitors to the area all year round, in particular the summer months are very busy! During the colder months our roaring log fire is a much welcome sight and the Inn is a cosy place to settle down for a drink or a meal. In contrast to the traditional style of the main Inn, our B&B rooms are light, bright and contemporary and furnished in a style taking influences from the surrounding coastline. Our 8 ensuite bedrooms (2 twin, 4 double and 2 family king size bed and a set of bunk beds) are housed in a spacious 3 storey building which is attached to the main Inn but also has its own front door accessed from a small pretty patio garden, with seating for guests to relax and enjoy the fine weather. We want guests to feel their room is a real home from home so we provide tea, coffee, hot chocolate and biscuits, bathroom toiletries, TV with freeview and free WI-FI so you can keep in touch whilst away (if you want to)! Our 2nd floor rooms have superb sea views! We are proud to hold an Enjoy England 4* Inn rating. With great rooms, a wonderful location, friendly welcome, extensive Menu offering dishes freshly prepared from the best local produce, a comprehensive Wine List and Award Winning Real Ales kept to Cask Marque standards, The Top House Inn is simply a great place to eat, drink or stay! For more details contact James or Donna Glosby, or one of the team.
167
68 THE HAVEN BED & BREAKFAST

Ruan Minor, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7JL Tel: 01326 290410 e-mail: denise.wilsontr12@googlemail.com
The Haven Bed and Breakfast occupies an enviable location on the stunning coastline of the Lizard Peninsula in the south of Cornwall. With the coastal footpath, Kynance Cove and the unspoilt Helford River nearby, a holiday in this part of the country is certain to be one filled with the delights of nature. The Haven is owned by Denise Wilson who has been running it for the past twenty years. She maintains a wonderfully laid back and friendly attitude, welcoming all types of guests including families with children and dogs. The Haven itself is a charming 17th century thatched cottage which Denise maintains beautifully. She maintains a traditional theme although some her foreign treasures gathered from her time spent living in Africa and the Middle East add a more exotic feel. Guests can choose from three self contained rooms with either a double, twin or single bed. A cosy sitting room is also available for guests use, complete with colour TV and video. Guests can also enjoy the handsome dining room which houses the cottages large inglenook fireplace. Breakfast is served here each day with fresh eggs from Denises very own free range chickens. Evening meals are not normally provided as Denise highly recommends a local restaurant specialising in delicious Cornish seafood. Please see website for more details.
70 COLVENNOR FARMHOUSE
Cury, nr Mullion, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7BJ Tel: 01326 241208 e-mail: colvennor@btinternet.com website: www.colvennorfarmhouse.com
Approached by a short private lane, Colvennor is a lovingly restored former farmhouse, fronted with dressed granite in classic Cornish style. Grade II listed with parts dating back to the 17th Century and surrounded by open countryside offering glimpses over Mounts Bay towards Penzance. There are two double rooms and one twin, all ensuite. Guests are welcome to relax at their leisure in the large, peaceful garden. Breakfast is served in the attractive dining room overlooking the front garden, fresh local produce is used wherever possible. The hosts aim to ensure your visit to the Lizard and West Cornwall is as memorable as possible.
71 HALZEPHRON HERB FARM

3 Commercial Road, Porthleven, Cornwall TR13 9JD Tel: 01326 554007
Halzephron Herb Farm uses organic Cornish herbs and other natural ingedients in a unique range of marinades, sauces, mayos, dips, dressings, seeds and preserves. The best known products are the Garlic and Lemon mayonnaise, Cornish Herb salad dressing and Cornish Ale chutney. Tastings are available daily and gift boxes and hampers can be made to order. The Herb Farm started in 1995 at Helzephron House on the cliff top at Gunwalloe and is now at Tregellast Barton Farm near St Keverne alongside Roskillys, Cornwalls iconic producer of organic ice cream and fudge.
168
72 KOTA RESTAURANT AND ROOMS

Harbour Head, Porthleven, Helston, Cornwall TR13 9JA Tel: 01326 562407 e-mail: kota@btconnect.com website: www.kotarestaurant.co.uk
Perfectly positioned at the head of the historic harbour in the idyllic fishing port of Porthleven, the Kota Restaurant has quickly become one of the best-kept secrets in the South West. Kota occupies a 300 year old building and has a rustic edge, full of rough brick and old wood and the imagined echo of sea shanties. Now in its forth year of trading, Kota is proud to be recognized and has been praised many times in both local and national editorials, including The Times, The Guardian and The Telegraph (Kota was named in the Top 50 Summer Restaurants in Britain in August 09, and voted The Big Eat in the top 10 pan-Asian eateries July 2008). This publicity, together with word of mouth, attracts many locals, as well as foodies from Padstow, Bristol and London seeking a weekend of fun, fine dining and stunning coastal walks. Chef/owner Jude Kereama is a New Zealander who has won awards for his restaurants in both London and Auckland before moving down to Cornwall. Kota specializes in organic fish and farm produce and has an exciting daily changing menu. Kota is Maori for shellfish (Jude is half Maori, quarter Chinese and quarter Malaysian) and the restaurant is renowned for its stunning seafood with Judes signature light Asian twist. Top quality produce is used, including organic wherever possible to create unforgettable meal. Popular dishes on the menu include seared Falmouth Bay scallops with belly of pork, cider apple puree & soy ginger; pan fried lemon sole, roast turbot, duo of Duck with a vegetable trio. Desserts are also a big hit here and include mouth-watering choices of spice plum and lemon brulee, chocolate fondant and rhubarb parfait. Jude and his wife Jane, who started as a protge of Antony Worrall Thompson 15 years ago, are passionate about wine as well as food and have created an enticing wine list of over 90 wines from all over the world. Even Decanter Magazine has praised it! There is a lovely bar area where guests can enjoy fine wine, cocktails, cold beer or a warming digestif. Awarded 3* by the AA, Kota offers two double rooms with ensuite bathrooms - one is a spacious family room with double-fronted harbour views. The home smoked salmon at breakfast is not to be missed! Late check outs often available. Dont forget to book a room so you can truly relax!
169
73 CAF MUNDO BAR

7 Tregenna Hill, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1SF Tel: 01736 794532 e-mail: cafemundobar@hotmail.co.uk website: www.cafemundobar.co.uk
Caf Mundo is set amongst the narrow streets of St Ives, a bustling seaside town with powder white sandy beaches. Just 1 minutes walk from the rail and bus station, Caf Mundo is an ideal spot to start your day with a cooked breakfast with local sausage and hogs pudding, or to refuel with a sandwich made from Warrens white or Granary bread, or a loaded, grilled Panini with a European twist, and hand cut chips. Take away is available, so drop in and get your lunch/breakfast before you start your journey or hit the beach! Caf Mundo offers an interesting and varied menu including daily specials, hand picked Newlyn crab, with lemon and black pepper and a West Country smoked Mackerel salad with rustic baguette. Gluten free options available where possible, and we also have soya milk. Food is served all day from 10am to 5pm.
170
74 abode b&b
1 Fern Glen, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1QP Tel: 01736 799047 / 07773376080 e-mail: enquiries@abodestives.co.uk website: www.abodestives.co.uk
St Ives has been voted as having some of the best beaches in the world, and some great restaurants which sit right on the beach with fabulous views over soft yellow sands. Just a 10/15 minute walk from the beach you will find abode, a relaxed b&b which is sure to impress. Friendly hosts Anna and Simon offer a warm welcome to all, and their attention to detail and knowledge of the area means guests can be assured of a pleasurable stay. Having invested a considerable amount of time and hard work, the couple have renovated the house to a very high standard, offering rooms with comfortable beds and crisp linen, en-suites with powerful showers and fluffy towels. Each room is equipped with TV with freeview and DVD/CD, hairdryer, shaving/toothbrush point, tea/ coffee making facilities, filtered bottled water, corkscrew and Wi-Fi. A selection of CDs, DVDs, books and board games are available for guests use, along with ironing facilities. Simon & Anna are more than happy to chill your wine, champagne, beer & soft drinks and welcome you to use their ice maker to perfect your drink. If guests can pull themselves away from the comfortable bedrooms, the garden offers an idyllic place to reflect on the days events over a hot drink, with blankets to snuggle into should it get chilly. Breakfast here is a true treat, and locally sourced ingredients are used as much as possible. Guests can choose from a selection of cereals, homemade Granola, freshly prepared fruit platter, and fresh juice. You are spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing from the cooked selection, locally sourced and cooked to perfection, you are sure to leave the table feeling like you can tackle even the most eventful walk. If you depart early Simon & Anna will provide a continental breakfast tray, to help you enjoy your journey.
171
75 THE ANCHORAGE BED & BREAKFAST

5 Bunkers Hill, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1LJ Tel: 01736 797135 Mob: 07977 928540 e-mail: info@anchoragestives.co.uk website: www.anchoragestives.co.uk
St Ives is a small fishing village and an ideal place to relax and unwind. It combines a sense of timelessness with the contemporary and presents both locals and visitors with something they relish and want to revisit. This can also be said of The Anchorage Bed & Breakfast. It is a small guest house that dates back to 1730; the Grade II listed property is full of architectural and historical interest. Nestled in the heart of the old artists and fishermens quarter, all of the towns beaches, shops and restaurant are within easy reach. During the evenings indulge at one of the many restaurants and pubs, serving the freshest seafood and local produce, fine wines and real ales. The Anchorage is proud to provide comfortable accommodation and excellent breakfasts, using the freshest locally sourced ingredients wherever possible. Breakfast choices include: a self-service table with a selection of fresh fruit, fruit juices, yoghurts and a variety of cereals, full Cornish breakfast, smoked salmon & scrambled eggs, Kippers with poached eggs as well as a vegetarian option. The service here is courteous and attentive without being formal. St Ives with its many galleries including the Tate and the South Western part of Cornwall have so much to offer with world famous attractions such as the Eden Project and Lands End, numerous National Trust Gardens and many fascinating animal sanctuaries like The Seal Sanctuary at Gweek and Paradise Park, right on the doorstep. Discovering this part of Cornwall will keep you busy for many holidays whatever time of the year you decide to visit!
172
76 BLUE HAYES PRIVATE HOTEL

Trelyon Avenue, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 2AD Tel: 01736 797129 Fax: 01736 799098 e-mail: info@bluehayes.co.uk website: www.bluehayes.co.uk Stay in style A little piece of the South of France in St Ives
Jutting out above Porthminster Point, the idyllic setting of this tranquil hotel provides visitors with sweeping panoramas across St Ives Bay, from the Harbour to Godrevy lighthouse and the golden sands of Hayle. On a clear day you can see Trevose Head, just north of Padstow. With the coastal path at the bottom of the garden, its only five minutes walk to Porthminster Beach below, and ten minutes to the harbour. Boasting a beautiful garden, white balustraded terrace fringed with palms, pond and pine trees, it emits an escapist vibe. Lonely Planet dubs it A little piece of the South of France in St Ives and the acclaimed Hotel Guru lists it as one of their top ten in Cornwall. Recommended by Times OnLine, The Independent, and even The New York Times Blue Hayes Private Hotel offers exclusive excellence. The hotel has minimalist clean lines and sleek interior. All rooms are large and luxurious with lavish accompaniments, from Molton Brown toiletries to pocket-sprung mattresses, goose-down pillows every aspect smacks of sheer quality and extravagance. The high standard of all amenities and facilities guarantee a comfortable, state-of-the-art stay. Every room is equipped with baths, showers with double body jets, television, radio, and wireless broadband. With over fifty restaurants and places to eat in St Ives, all within easy walking distance of the hotel, many guests want to sample a different restaurant each night. So Blue Hayes offers their guests something different - a cold Supper menu with the emphasis on local produce. Settle on the terrace and watch the sun melt into the night sky, whilst enjoying Tian Of Smoked Salmon & Cornish Crab or Lobster with saffron and dill mayonnaise and a chilled bottle of Chablis. The licensed Cocktail Bar has over sixty cocktails, including Blue Hayes own creations the John Miller (named after the areas famed artist), Blue Hayes Colada, and Cornish Velvet. Breakfast is served in the dining room, terrace or your own room, and the extensive menu includes homemade fruit compote, smoked salmon Benedict, Cornish gammon steak, kedgeree, mackerel, and smoked haddock. Decadent, dreamy and utterly chic, youll be smitten with this private piece of utopia. For total relaxation, individual privacy and ber smart surrounds the Blue Hayes Private Hotel is a heavenly haven for sun seeking solace amidst spectacular scenery.
173
77 ANGARRACK INN
12 Steamers Hill, Angarrack, nr Hayle, Cornwall TR27 5JB Tel: 01736 752380
Tucked away in quaint Angarrack, close to Hayle, St Ives and Penzance, is the only pub in the village aptly named the Angarrack Inn. This traditional pub with charming beams and plenty of character, provides locals and visitors with a well stocked bar and hearty homecooked food created from scratch. The interior has a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, and the garden with ample seating allows visitors to enjoy their chosen meal or beverage outside during warmer weather. Children and dogs are welcome.
78 THE MOUNT HAVEN
HOTEL AND RESTAURANT

Turnpike road, Marazion, nr Penzance, Cornwall TR17 0DQ Tel: 01736 710249 e-mail: reception@mounthaven.co.uk website: www.mounthaven.co.uk
Recently named by CNN (American News Channel) as one of the worlds top 9 secret hotels, The Mount Haven Hotel and Restaurant offers an oasis of peace and tranquillity in a contemporary, relaxed atmosphere. It is renowned throughout the UK and around the world for its stylish facilities and stunning location overlooking Mounts Bay towards St Michaels Mount. This outstanding hotel boasts 18 superb, en-suite rooms, most with uninterrupted sea views and balconies. Romantics can choose a four poster room while the double deluxe room is available for total indulgence! Whatever the choice, Mount Haven offers nothing but the best along with the warmest of welcomes from dedicated owners Michael and Orange Trevillion. The hotel has its own holistic treatment centre offering a range of therapies including reflexology, reiki and aromatherapy. Guests will certainly taste the difference in the 2 AA rosette restaurant where award-winning chefs create freshly prepared dishes for the remarkable menus. Main courses could include poached sol, lobster tortellini, cavolo nero and jus crustace, or roast duck breast, black pudding hash, poached duck egg with mustard and cider sauce.
174
79 THE WHITE HART

Churchtown, Ludgvan, Cornwall TR20 8EY Tel: 01736 740574 e-mail: info@whitehartludgvan.co.uk
The pretty town of Churchtown is just a stones throw from Mounts Bay and the famous St Michaels Mount, with Penzance, St Ives, just ten minutes away. Its also home to The White Hart, a vibrant, yet historic 13th century village inn, known for its warm welcome, fine food and premium spirits. Andrew and Beverley Hay have been in the trade for many years, taking over the inn in July 2010. They have decorated to high standards throughout whilst keeping with the buildings period theme. They also own a distillery in France called Gireau which produces upmarket and house spirits of which they stock many at the inn, alongside a good range of other wines, ales and lagers. The menu focuses on a fusion of traditional and contemporary British cuisine with fresh ingredients supplied locally, including fresh fish from the Newlyn Market. Daily specials change each day to reflect the best in seasonal produce, with favourites including pan fried beef fillet in peppercorn sauce and pork loin with apple, pear, stilton and a honey jus. Food is available between 12-2:30pm and 6-9:30pm, but the inn opens all days on weekends and longer in the summer months. Various speciality evenings are often held with events including cooking competitions, quizzes, ladies luncheons and live entertainment, guaranteed to get the local community together and mixing with visitors of all ages. For those wanting to make the inn their base for exploring Cornwall, there are two lovely guest rooms available. Please call for details.
80 WAYSIDE FOLK MUSEUM

Zennor, nr St Ives, Cornwall TR26 3DA Tel: 01736 796945 website: www.chycor.co.uk/tourism/zenor_museum/zenor_museum.htm
In the 1930s Colonel Freddie Hirst started a collection of relics peculiar to Zennor. That collection was the basis of the Wayside Folk Museum, a privately owned museum which portrays the lives of ordinary people in the area through its displays of artefacts, stories and photographs. Inside 16 display areas contain more than 5,000 items including blacksmiths and wheelwrights equipment, a cobblers shop, an 18th century kitchen, relics of local mining and quarrying and early agricultural implements. In the grounds are two waterwheels from the mining industry and a unique collection of corn grinding querns and stone tools dating back as far as 3000 BC. Bridge House Gift & Book Shop specialises in things Cornish as well as providing light refreshments.
175
81 WAVES CAF BAR

29-30 Causeway Head, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 2SP Tel: 01736 600014
Waves Caf Bar has built a reputation for offering exceptionally high quality and interesting cuisine. Owners Darren and Paul recently gained recognition for the quality of their service, food & drink and were awarded a prestigious Gold Healthy Eating Award. This accolade celebrates Waves high standards in hygiene, quality and provision of healthy eating options. Waves Caf Bar is housed in a beautiful old chapel that was extended in 1926 when it was given the high art deco faade that you see today. And its made even more special by the fact that it is the only remaining example of a 1930s store left in the town. Situated near the top of Causeway Head, the caf bar is surrounded by an eclectic mix of independent stores and has large windows looking out onto this pleasant pedestrian precinct. Waves is the perfect destination to simply relax and take some time over an enjoyable coffee or put the day behind you with a drink of Polgoon Cornish wine. A full and varied breakfast menu is available from 9am until 11am or 1pm on Sundays; the sausages, bacon and eggs are all Cornish and organic (vegetarian alternatives are also available). Lunches are served from 11am onwards and theres a varied selection of homemade soups, savouries, pastas, gourmet burgers and local fish. Also, added to the regular menu there are daily specials, which are often vegetarian or fish based and again all ingredients are sourced from Newlyn harbour just minutes down the road. Waves Caf Bar can be privately booked for your birthday, anniversary, christening, wedding or any other function for up to fifty covers. Open everyday even Sundays. Whatever the reason for your visit, whether its for the fair trade coffee, Tea Pig speciality teas, breakfasts or hearty lunches you can always be assured of a warm welcome at Waves Caf Bar.
176
82 BLUE BAY CAFE

Wharfside Shopping Centre, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 2GB Tel: 01736 350483 e-mail: annebluebay@btinternet.com website: www.bluebaycafe.co.uk
Situated in the popular town of Penzance, just off the town centre is the much loved Blue Bay Cafe. The main car park is directly opposite which makes the Blue Bay perfect for a cup of coffee on arrival or a light lunch or afternoon tea before leaving. The cafe is owned and run by Anne Lord, a friendly host who offers all her visitors a warm welcome, and the modern and contemporary style creates a relaxed atmosphere in which to dine. Breakfasts, light lunches, seafood dishes and afternoon teas keep locals and tourists returning time and time again. The selection of homemade cakes and desserts are all baked by Anne, and her customers are extremely fond of the homemade scones which can be enjoyed alone, or as a cream tea. During the summer the cafe offers a tapas style menu which has proved extremely popular. The cafe is fully licensed and there is a comprehensive choice of wines to compliment a chosen meal or snack. During the warmer months guests are able to enjoy their food and drink outside on the pleasant terrace.
177
83 THE HONEY POT

5 Parade Street, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4BU Tel: 01736 368686
The Honey Pot is situated just along from the Acorn Theatre near the famous Chapel Street in the heart of Penzances picturesque old town. It is renowned by both locals and visitors from further afield, who rave about the unbeatable home cooking and the warmth and friendliness which its staff exude. The caf is owned and run by Kathy Hawkins who is ably assisted by a small local team of hardworking individuals who are knowledgeable about the local area, making any trip here a worthwhile one. The menu is varied and focuses on using as much locally sourced produce as possible. Kathys passion is world food, and this shows right from breakfast time when fresh pain au chocolat and croissants are offered alongside cinnamon toast with Greek thyme honey or maple syrup, served with coffees from Origin. Photos: Ocean-Image.com At lunchtime a host of homemade soups and dishes including tarts, lasagnes, jacket potatoes and salads, or mezze platters and gourmet sandwiches are served. Although not licensed to sell alcohol, guests are invited to bring their own wine if they wish. During the afternoon cakes and treats top the bill, including Strawberry Pavlova, Chocolate Ganache Cake and Lemon & Lime cheesecake, alongside generous cream teas with local clotted cream. Pure indulgence- all homemade and simply delicious!
84 NUMBER NINE
9 Regent Square, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4BG Tel: 01736 369715 / 07855427764 e-mail: janeclayton27@googlemail.co.uk website: www.numberninepenzance.com
Nestled peacefully in a very elegant area of Penzance, is Number Nine. This unique bed and breakfast offers comfortable accommodation in a lovely Georgian house, close to the sea and the Penzance Promenade. The property has one charming double bedroom with ensuite, and has the additional benefit of a separate private sitting room / dining room with a real log fire for guests exclusive use during their stay. Number Nine is minutes away from popular pubs and restaurants and Jane is happy to recommend her favourites.
178
85 COUNTRY COUSINS CAF

Unit 2, 61-62 Chapel Street, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4AE Tel: 01736 333597 e-mail: w.colyer@live.com
Chapel Street in Penzance is famous for its beautiful architecture and eclectic range of superb shops and eateries. Amongst this fine collection is Country Cousins Caf which lies in a handsome building that was once part of the old market. Inside the light and airy space is complemented by a sunny disposition, highlighting its original wooden beams above. The caf is owned by Wayne Colyer who had worked at the caf for eight years as a professional chef, when two years ago his brother joined him in buying the caf and they have run it together since then. The brothers specialise in wholesome English food and attract a host of regular customers throughout the week who enjoy their traditional flavours. On the weekends however the caf is a popular haunt with younger clientele who take full advantage of the cafs range of delicious breakfasts which provide ample rescue from the excesses of the night before. Dishes include a full English breakfast served all day, with lunches including succulent homemade roasts, steak pies, a variety of filled jacket potatoes and fresh salads, sandwiches and light snacks. In the summer months Wayne uses his baking skills to create a selection of mouth-watering cakes, perfect for afternoon tea. They open from 9:30am-3:30pm MondaySaturday all year round.
87 JESSIES DAIRY
11 Fore Street, Mousehole TR19 6TQ Tel: 01736 732192
Here at Jessies Dairy we specialise in home made produce and are well known for our delicious traditional Cornish pasties and cream teas. We are proud to be members of the Cornish Pasty Association. All food is made to order using local produce wherever possible and you will find gluten and wheat free soup and cakes on the menu. We always have at least fourteen varieties of wonderful Roskillys Ice Cream which is made at St Keverne on the Lizard Peninsula. Roskillys fudge, Kernow chocolate and Halzephron Herb Farm produce can also be purchased. There is a lovely sheltered walled garden where you can sit, relax and enjoy your coffee, lunch or afternoon tea. Dogs are very welcome.
179
86 THE CORNISH RANGE RESTAURANT
WITH ROOMS
6 Chapel Street, Mousehole, Cornwall TR19 6SB Tel: 01736 731488 e-mail: info@cornishrange.co.uk website: www.cornishrange.co.uk
If you enjoy excellent food in relaxed & comfortable surroundings, then a visit to The Cornish Range in Mousehole is a must. The Cornish Range is owned and run by Keith & Tiffany Terry, a friendly & welcoming couple whos priority is to please their customers. Keith has twenty years experience as a professional chef, obtaining a 2 Rosette rating for the restaurant. His imaginative dishes are created from locally sourced produce, fresh fish daily from Newlyn, Cornish vegetables & cheeses and locally reared meat. The service is first class and unobtrusive with an extensive wine list including ciders & wines produced in Cornwall. The menu is such that it is difficult to choose a dish as they all sound as equally mouth-watering! For example: Grilled mackerel fillets with rosemary, horseradish & lemon cream. Melted goats cheese on a marinated beef tomato salad & purple basil jam. Whole grilled Megrim sole with crab & dill butter. Poached flaked salmon with Newlyn crab, pea & wild rice risotto, crme fraiche & sweet pepper sauce. Slow roasted pork shoulder, braised red cabbage, herb potatoes & apple and thyme gravy..the list goes on! The Cornish Range also has accommodation available. There are three beautiful 4 star en-suite rooms, light & modern with every convenience. The rooms are named with connections to local artists. Ambrose, after Ambrose Ruffigniac, who as a boy in the late 19th century modelled for Newlyn based artist Henry Scott Tuke. Tuke therefore is another room name, and Pender after Jack Pender, the famous Mousehole artist whose studio was this room. The Cornish art theme follows through in the restaurant with paintings displayed on the walls by local artist Chris Thompson. Coffees and delicious cakes can be served during the day in either the restaurant or the very pretty tiered garden to the rear of the restaurant. Brunch is available from 10 am and it is recommended that you book during weekends and most evenings throughout the summer months. Finally there are many delightful aspects to recommend a visit to the Cornish Range but the only way to fully appreciate it is to go & experience it, you wont be disappointed!
180
88 THE COOK BOOK

4 Cape Cornwall Street, St Just, Penwith, Cornwall TR19 7JZ Tel: 01736 787266 e-mail: info@thecookbookstjust.co.uk website: www.thecookbookstjust.co.uk
Since it opened in 2003 The Cook Book has become a way of life for its owners rather than just a business. David and Philippa James have worked hard to combine their love of food and books in this unusual venture. The Cook Book is a popular caf and one of Cornwalls most fascinating second-hand book shops. The book side of the business is known as Bosorne Books. There are over 5000 second-hand books, sorted by genre, in three rooms upstairs and a more eclectic section downstairs. Bookworms enjoy a wide selection, from Pinocchio to Plato, including art, history, military, natural history, poetry, childrens books, paperback fiction, and many books about Cornwall. David and Philippas interest in books extends further, with a book binding, restoration and repair service run by Rebecca Vosper. Downstairs in the caf, visitors are welcomed by bright and cheerful staff who engage fully with all aspects of the business. David and Philippa believe that all guests to the Cook Book should be treated as if they were visitors to their own home. The caf is simply but pleasantly furnished with a coffee bar in one room and five round tables in the dining room. They are reliably informed by their customers that their coffee is simply the best, and goes particularly well with one of their speciality breakfasts, served all day. These include fresh free range Cornish eggs, local sausages from St Just, Cornish mushrooms and much more. The menu includes baguettes, paninis, home baked ham and other salads, and delicious home-made soup. Soups depend on the availability of seasonal vegetables and the ingenuity of the cook. Cakes and scones are baked for the caf by Julie Chapple who specialises in dried apricot and almond, fantastic chocolate fudge and coffee and walnut that vanishes as soon as its made. The Cook Book Cheese Tea is an excellent twist on the traditional cream tea, also available. Where possible ingredients are sourced locally. The Cook Book was awarded the CHEFS Gold Award in February 2011.
181
89 TREWELLARD ARMS
Trewellard, Penzance, Cornwall TR19 7TA Tel: 01736 788634 e-mail: ex04ter@aol.com
Situated at Trewellard, the lovely Trewellard Arms has been frequented by travellers and tourists for many years. Formerly cottages, the now popular free house was taken over by owners Martin and Gill Hutchings in August 2007. The couple have refurbished the downstairs bar and dining areas and have created new sociable spaces to enjoy, which has enticed even more visitors. Decorated traditionally and with a homely and welcoming feel, the free house has many features, which makes it the perfect place to visit, as it caters for everyones needs. Great food is served, real ales, wonderful beer garden, games (such as darts) and a great atmosphere, which is provided by the tentative hosts. Food is served daily from 123pm and 6-9pm in the winter. In the summer months lunches are served from 12 noon until 3pm, cream teas & snacks from 3-6pm & an evening dinner menu from 69.30pm. On Sundays there is a traditional roast served and bookings are required. The ingredients used are mostly sourced locally and dishes such as Trewellard chicken supreme, Trewellard mixed grill and daily fish specials are regular favourites. All meals are delicious and there is something to suit even the pickiest of tastes. The Trewellard Arms also caters for children, making it a great visit for families. As many as 5 real ales are served here, with sharps doom bar being the regular and a number of ever changing locally brewed and national ales rotating as guests. The whisky menu offers a choice of over 40 malt whiskies. There is also the opportunity to enjoy a locally brewed local cider, which is delicious and enjoyed by many. There is much to enjoy at the Trewellard Arms and plenty of events to add to your annual diary. One of which is the beer festival, which takes place at the end of April or the first weekend of May. Here there are up to 40 real ales as well as extra real ciders, all accompanied by live music. The weekend is a must for any beer lover and it is set in wonderful and relaxing atmosphere.
182
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

BODMIN
Shire Hall, Mount Folly, Bodmin, PL31 2DQ Tel: (01208) 76616 Fax: (01208) 75466 e-mail: bodmintic@visit.org.uk website: www.bodminlive.com
LAUNCESTON
Market House Arcade, Market Street, Launceston, PL15 8EP Tel: (01566) 772321 Fax: (01566) 772322 e-mail: Launcestontica@btconnect.com website: www.visitlaunceston.co.uk
BOSCASTLE
The Harbour, Boscastle, PL35 0HD Tel: (01840) 250010 Fax: (01840) 250901 e-mail: boscastlevc@btconnect.com website: www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com
LISKEARD
Foresters Hall, Pike Street, Liskeard, PL14 3JE Tel: (01579) 349148 e-mail: tourism@liskeard.gov.uk website: www.liskeard.gov.uk
BUDE
The Crescent Car Park, Bude, EX23 8LE Tel: (01288) 354240 Fax: (01288) 355769 e-mail: budetic@visitbude.info website: www.visitbude.info
LOOE
The Guildhall, Fore Street, East Looe, PL13 1AA Tel: (01503) 262072 Fax: (01503) 265426 e-mail: looetic@btconnect.com website: www.visit-southeastcornwall.co.uk
CAMELFORD
North Cornwall Museum, The Clease, Camelford, PL32 9PL Tel: (01840) 212954 Fax: (01840) 212954 e-mail: manager@camelfordtic.eclipse.co.uk
LOSTWITHIEL
Lostwithiel Community Centre, Liddicoat Road, Lostwithiel, PL22 0HE Tel: (01208) 872207 Fax: (01208) 872207 e-mail: tourism@lostwithieltic.wanadoo.co.uk website: www.lostwithieltouristinformation.webs.com
FALMOUTH
11 Market Strand, Prince of Wales Pier, Falmouth, TR11 3DF Tel: (01326) 312300 Fax: (01326) 313457 e-mail: info@falmouthtic.co.uk website: www.discoverfalmouth.co.uk
MEVAGISSEY
St Georges Square, Mevagissey, PL26 6UB Tel: (01726) 844440 e-mail: info@mevagissey-cornwall.co.uk website: www.mevagissey-cornwall.co.uk
FOWEY
5 South Street, Fowey, PL23 1AR Tel: (01726) 833616 Fax: (01726) 834939 e-mail: info@fowey.co.uk website: www.fowey.co.uk
NEWQUAY
Municipal Offices, Marcus Hill, Newquay, TR7 1BD Tel: (01637) 854020 e-mail: newquay.tic@cornwall.gov.uk website: www.visitnewquay.org
HAYLE
Hayle Library, Commercial Road, Hayle, TR27 4DE Tel: 01736 754399 e-mail: hayletouristinformation@cornwall.gov.uk
PADSTOW
Red Brick Building, North Quay, Padstow, PL28 8AF Tel: (01841) 533449 Fax: (01841) 532356 e-mail: padstowtic@btconnect.com website: www.padstowlive.com
183
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

PERRANPORTH
Westcott House, St Pirans Road, Perranporth, TR6 0BH Tel: (01872) 575254 Fax: (01872) 572971 e-mail: info@perranporthinfo.co.uk website: www.perranporthinfo.co.uk
ST JUST
The Library, Market Street, St Just, Penzance, TR19 7HX Tel: (01736) 788165 e-mail: stjusttourist@cornwall.gov.uk website: www.visit-westcornwall.com
REDRUTH
Visitor Information Point, The Cornwall Centre, Alma Place, Redruth, TR15 2AT Tel: (01209) 216760 (Cornish Studies Library) Fax: (01209) 210283 e-mail: cornishstudies.library@cornwall.gov.uk website: www.cornwall.gov.uk
ST MAWES
The Roseland Visitor Centre, The Millennium Rooms, The Square, St Mawes, TR2 5AG Tel: (01326) 270440 e-mail: manager@roselandinfo.com website: www.stmawesandtheroseland.co.uk
TINTAGEL VISITOR CENTRE ST AGNES

18 Vicarage Road, St Agnes, TR5 0TL Tel: (01872) 554150 Fax: (01872) 554150 e-mail: ticstagnes@yahoo.co.uk website: www.st-agnes.com Bossiney Road, Tintagel, PL34 0AJ Tel: (01840) 779084 Fax: (01840) 779295 e-mail: tintagelvc@btconnect.com website: www.visitboscastleandtintagel.com
TRURO ST AUSTELL
By Pass Service Station, Southbourne Road, St Austell, PL25 4RS Tel: (01726) 879500 Fax: (01726) 874168 e-mail: tic@cornish-riviera.co.uk website: www.visitthecornishriviera.co.uk Municipal Buildings, Boscawen Street, Truro, TR1 2NE Tel: (01872) 274555 Fax: (01872) 263031 e-mail: tic@truro.gov.uk website: www.tourism.truro.gov.uk
ST IVES
The Guildhall, St Ives Tel: (01736) 796297
184
IMAGE COPYRIGHT HOLDERS

Some images in this book have been supplied by http://www.geograph.org.uk and licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.
COPYRIGHT HOLDERS ARE AS FOLLOWS:

Crooklets Beach, Bude Bude Canal, Bude William Wells Neil Lewin Pierre Terre pg 9 pg 10 pg 11 pg 13 pg 15 pg 16 pg 17 pg 18 pg 19 pg 20 pg 21 pg 23 pg 24 pg 28 pg 29 Ron Allday pg 30 pg 31 pg 32 pg 33 pg 34 pg 35 pg 36 pg 37 pg 38 pg 40 pg 43 pg 44 pg 45 pg 47 pg 48 pg 49 pg 51 pg 52 pg 53 pg 55 Steve Rigg Roche Rock and Chapel, Roche East Wheal Rose, St Newlyn East Wheal Coates, St Agnes St Pirans Round, Rose Town Quay, Fowey Inner Harbour, Polperro Daymark, Gribbin Head The Harbour, Mevagissey Cathedral, Truro Trewithen House, Probus Round Houses, Veryan St Pirans Cross, Perranporth Colin Park pg 56 pg 59 pg 61 pg 62 pg 64 pg 66 pg 67 pg 70 pg 74 pg 75 pg 77 pg 78 pg 80 pg 83 pg 85 pg 86 pg 88 pg 89 pg 90 pg 92 pg 93 pg 95 pg 96 pg 97 pg 99 pg 103 pg 105 pg 107 pg 108 pg 109 pg 110 pg 111 pg 112 pg 113 pg 114 pg 116 pg 117 Tony Atkin Malcolm Kewn pg 57
St Olafs Parish Church, Poughill Vicarage Cliffs, Morwenstow St Swithins Church, Launcells Blackrock, Widemouth Bay Old Post Office, Tintagel Beach, Crackington Haven Above the Village, Boscastle
Richard Rogerson Gary Rogers Rod Allday Alan Fleming Tony Atkin Mark Percy Derek Harper Stuart Logan Fred James
Humphrey Bolton pg 12 High View
Martin Bodman
Mark Collins Richard Law Chris Downer
Pine Lodge Gardens, St Austell
Bridge over River Camel, Slaughterbridge Andy F Slate Quarry, Delabole Dozmary Pool, Bolventor The Jail, Bodmin Martin Bodman Mick Heraty Nick McNeill Michael Murray Steam Railway, Launceston St Nonnas Church, Altarnun The Gatehouse, Lanhydrock Sarah Charlesworth Camel Valley Vineyard, Nanstallon The Royal Albert Bridge, Saltash Shaun Ferguson Kit Hill, Callington Sarah Charlesworth Adrian Platt Martin Bodman Tony Atkin Cotehele House, Calstock Morwellham Quay, Calstock Beach, Kingsand
Richard Rogerson Tony Atkin
House and Gardens, Trelissick
Ron Strutt
Looking towards Flushing, Penryn River Rod Allday Godrevy Island, Godrevy Point Gwennap Pit, Gwennap Stithians Reservoir, Stithians Grylls Monument, Helston Flora Dance, Helston Lifeboat Station, Lizard The Harbour, Coverack Ray Beer Rod Allday Tony Atkin Pam Brophy Mel Landells Trevor Harris Robin Lucas Philip Halling Rob Davies Sheila Russell Tony Atkin Amanda King Tony Atkin David Gearing
Rod Allday
Fallen Tree, Frenchmans Creek Wireless Station, The Lizard Kynance Cove, The Lizard The Harbour, Porthleven The Beach, Gwithian
French Gardens, Mount Edgcumbe Philip Halling Port Eliot House, St Germans Looe Harbour , Looe Stone Circle, Duloe
Rod Allday
Pam Brophy Philip Halling
Philip Halling
Si John Betjemans Grave, St Enodoc Neil Kennedy Harbour, Port Isaac Amanda King Long Cross Victorian Gardens, Trelights Andrew Longton Inner Harbour, Padstow Parish Church, St Issey Beach, Bedruthan Steps Tolcarne Beach, Newquay Gary Radford Tony Atkin David Hawgood Derek Harper
St Michaels Mount, Marazion View Westwards, Zennor Head Egyptian House, Penzance Harbour Lighthouse, Penzance
Harbour Lighthouse, Mousehole Martin Bodman Lamorna Cove, Lamorna The Cliffs, Lands End Sennen Cove, Sennen Engine House, Botallack Richard Knights Pennie Winkler Roger Butterfield Richard Knights Michael Parry Minack Theatre, Porthcurno
Surfing at Fistral Beach, Newquay Geoff Tydeman Bridge, Porth Beach Geoff Welding Castle-an-Dinas, St Columb Major
Chysauster Ancient Village, New Mill Paul Allison
185
ORDER FORM
To order any of our publications just fill in the payment details below and complete the order form. For orders of less than 4 copies please add 1 per book for postage and packing. Orders over 4 copies are P & P free. Please Complete Either: I enclose a cheque for Or: CARD NO: SIGNATURE: NAME: ADDRESS: made payable to Travel Publishing Ltd EXPIRY DATE:
TEL NO: Please either send, telephone, fax or e-mail your order to:
Travel Publishing Ltd, Airport Business Centre, 10 Thornbury Road, Estover, Plymouth PL6 7PP Tel: 01752 697280 Fax: 01752 697299 e-mail: info@travelpublishing.co.uk
P RICE HIDDEN P LACES R EGIONAL TITLES

Cornwall Devon Dorset, Hants & Isle of Wight East Anglia Lake District & Cumbria Lancashire & Cheshire Northumberland & Durham Peak District and Derbyshire Yorkshire 8.99 8.99 8.99 8.99 8.99 8.99 8.99 8.99 8.99
Q UANTITY COUNTRY LIVING RURAL G UIDES

........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... East Anglia Heart of England Ireland North East of England North West of England Scotland South of England South East of England Wales West Country
P RICE
Q UANTITY
10.99 10.99 11.99 10.99 10.99 11.99 10.99 10.99 11.99 10.99
........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ........... ...........
HIDDEN P LACES N ATIONAL TITLES

England Ireland Scotland Wales 11.99 11.99 11.99 11.99 ........... ........... ........... ...........
TOTAL QUANTITY TOTAL VALUE
OTHER TITLES
Off The Motorway of Britain 11.99 ........... ........... Garden Centres and Nurseries 11.99
186
INDEX OF TOWNS, VILLAGES AND PLACES OF INTEREST

A
ALTARNUN 24
Cathedral of the Moors 24 Old Rectory 24
BRANE 114
Bartinney Castle 115 Bartinney Downs 115 Carn Euny 114 Fogou 114
North Cornwall Museum and Gallery 19 Slaughterbridge 19
CARBIS BAY 103 CARDINHAM 29

Cardinham Castle 29 Cardinham Woods 29 Pinsla Garden & Nursery 29 St Meubreds Parish Church 29
B
BEDRUTHAN STEPS 49
Bedruthan Steps 49 Queen Bess Rock 49 Samaritan Island 49
BREAGE 99
St Breaca Parish Church 99
BUDE 9
Bude Canal 10 Bude Canal Trail 10 Bude Carnival 11 Bude Castle 10 Bude Castle Heritage Centre 10 Royal National Lifeboat Institution 9 South West Coastal Path 10
CARLYON BAY 72
St Austell Bay 72
BLISLAND 30
St Protus and St Hyacinth Parish Church 30
CARNE 79
Carne Beacon 79
CARTHEW 70
Wheal Martyn China Clay Museum and Country Park 70
BODINNICK 65
Bodinnick Car Ferry 65 Hall Walk 65
BUGLE 71
CAWSAND 36 CHARLESTOWN 72
Charlestown Shipwreck & Heritage Centre 72
BODMIN 27
Bodmin and Wenford Railway 28 Bodmin Jail 28 Bodmin Town Museum 27 Courtroom Experience 27 Gilbert Memorial 27 St Marys Church 28 St Petrocs Parish Church 28 The Duke of Cornwalls Light Infantry Regimental M 27
C
CADGWITH 96
Devils Frying Pan 96 The Todden 96
CONSTANTINE 92
St Constantine Parish Church 92
CALLINGTON 31
Cadsonbury Hillfort 32 Callington Heritage Centre 32 Dupath Chapel 32 Dupath Well 32 Mural Trail 32
COVERACK 95 CRACKINGTON HAVEN 18

High Cliff 18 The Strangles 18 Trevigue 19
BODMIN MOOR 22
Brown Willy 23 Fernacre Stone Circle 23 Roughtor 23 The Hurlers 22 Trethevy Quoit 22
CRANTOCK 58
St Carantoc Parish Church 58 The Old Albion 58
CALSTOCK 33
Cotehele House 33 Cotehele Quay 34 Morwellham Quay 34 Water Mill 34
CREMYLL 35
Mount Edgcumbe House 35
BOLVENTOR 23
Dozmary Pool 23 Jamaica Inn 23 Jan Tregeagle 23 Smugglers Museum 23
CAMBORNE 84
Camborne Library 84 Literary Institute 84 Richard Trevithicks 85 School of Mines 85 St Martin & St Meriadocus Parish Church 84 Town Trail 84 Trevithick Cottage 85 Trevithick Day Festival 85
CUTMADOC 28
Lanhydrock House 28
D
DELABOLE 20
Delabole Slate Quarry 20
BOSCASTLE 17
Devils Bellows 17 Museum of Witchcraft 17 Penally Point 17
DULOE 39
Duloe Stone Circle 39 Duloe Torque 40
BOSSINEY 16
Bossiney Haven 17 Bossiney Mound 16
CAMELFORD 19
Arthurian Centre 19 British Cycling Museum 19 North Cornwall Museum 19
DURGAN 89
Trebah Garden 89
BOTALLACK 115
Botallack Mine 115
187

F
FALMOUTH 81
Custom House Quay 82 Falmouth Art Gallery 83 Fox Rosehill 82 Gyllyngdune 82 Gyllyngvase Beach 82 Kimberley Park 82 National Maritime Museum Cornwall 82 Pendennis Castle 81 Queen Mary 82 Queens Pipe 82 Ships and Castles Leisure Centre 83 Swanpool Nature Reserve 83
GOLDSITHNEY 105 GOONHILLY DOWNS 95 GORRAN HAVEN 75

Church of St Just 75 Dodman Point 75 Great Perhaver Beach 75 St Gorran Parish Church 75
HOLYWELL 57
Holywell Bay 58 Holywell Bay Fun Park 58 Holywell Bay Golf Club 57
I
INDIAN QUEENS 55
Screech Owl Sanctuary 56
GRIBBIN HEAD 67
Daymark Tower 67 Menabilly House 67 Polridmouth Cove 67
K
KENIDJACK 116
Carn Kenidjack 116
GUNNISLAKE 32
New Bridge 33
GUNWALLOE 98
Church Cove 98 St Winwaloes Parish Church 98
KESTLE MILL 56
Lawnmower Museum 57
KILKHAMPTON 12
St Jamess Parish Church 12
FEOCK 81
Restronguet Point 81
GWEEK 91
National Seal Sanctuary 92
KINGSAND 36 KIT HILL 32

Battle of Hingston Down 32
FLUSHING 81 FOWEY 63
Fowey Royal Regatta 64 Hall Walk 64 Literary Centre 63 Place House 63 Readymoney Cove 64 Saints Way 63 Ship Inn 63 St Catherines Castle 64 St Fimbarrus Parish Church 63 The Haven 64 Town Hall 63 Tristan Stone 64
GWENNAP 86
Gwennap Pit 86
GWITHIAN 103
The Towans 103
KYNANCE COVE 97
Albert Rock 97 Asparagus Island 97 Devils Bellow 97 Rill Point 97
H
HAYLE 104
Paradise Park 104
L
LAMORNA 111
Lamorna Cove 111 Merry Maidens 111 The Pipers 111
HELFORD 93
Frenchmans Creek 93 Morgawr 93
HELFORD PASSAGE 89 HELSTON 89

Angel House 90 Blue Anchor Inn 90 Coronation Park & Boating Lake 90 Culdrose 91 Flambards 91 Flora Dance 90 Guildhall 90 Helston Folk Museum 90 Loe Bar 89 Loe Pool 89 National Museum of Gardening 91 Penrose Estate 90 St Michaels Parish Church 90 Trevarno Estate and Gardens 91
G
GERMOE 100
St Germoes Chair 100 St Germoes Parish Church 100
LANDS END 113

Lands End 113 Longships Lighthouse 113 Wolf Rock Lighthouse 113
LANEAST 21
St Sidwell and St Gulvat Parish Church 22
GODOLPHIN CROSS 103

Godolphin House 103
GODREVY POINT 85
Godrevy Island 85 Navax Point 85
LANREATH 40 LANSALLOS 66
St Ildiernas Parish Church 66
GOLANT 67
Castle Dore Earthworks 67 St Sampsons Parish Church 67
LANTEGLOS-BY-FOWEY 65
St Wyllows Parish Church 65
LAUNCELLS 13
188

LAUNCESTON 20
Launceston Castle 20 Launceston Steam Railway 21 Lawrence House Museum 21 St Mary Magdalene Parish Church 21
M
MADRON 117
Chun Quoit 117 Lanyon Quoit 117 Men-an-Tol 117 St Madderns Cell 117 St Madderns Parish Church 117 St Madderns Well 117
MOUSEHOLE 110
Merlins Rock 110 Mousehole Wild Bird Hospital 111 Penlee Lifeboat Disaster Memorial 111 Squire Keigwin 110 St Clements Isle 110 Stargazy Pie 110
LELANT 103
St Michaels Way 103 St Unys Parish Church 103
Mullion 97 MULLION COVE 97

St Mallenus Parish Church 97 Wheal Unity 98
LERRYN 69
St Veep Parish Church 69
MAKER 35
St Julians Well 35
LISKEARD 40
Guildhall 41 Liskeard and District Museum 41 Liskeard and Looe Union Canal 41 Looe Valley Line 41 Pipe Well 41 St Martins Parish Church 41 Stuart House 41
MARAZION 105
Chapel of St Michael 106 Chapel Rock 106 Marazion Marsh 105 Marazion Town Museum 105 St Michaels Mount Castle 106
MYLOR BRIDGE 81
Celtic Cross 81 St Mylor Parish Church 81
N
NANSTALLON 30
Camel Valley Vineyards 30
MARHAMCHURCH 14
St Marwennes Parish Church 14
LITTLE PETHERICK 49
Obelisk 49
MAWGAN 93
Halliggye Fogou 93 St Mawgan Parish Church 93 Trelowarren House 93
NEW MILL 117

Chysauster Ancient Village 117
LIZARD 96
Lizard Lighthouse 96 Lizard Lighthouse Heritage Centre 97 Lizard Point 96 The Lizard Wireless Station 97
NEWLYN 109
Newlyn Art Gallery 110 Newlyn Fish Festival 109 Newlyn School 110
MAWGAN PORTH 53
St Mawgan Parish Church 54
MAWNAN 88
Rosemullion Head 89 St Mawnan Parish Church 88
NEWQUAY 51
Blue Reef Aquarium 52 Buccaneer Bay 51 DairyLand Farm World 53 Fistral Beach 52 Great Western 52 Huers Hut 51 Lane Theatre 51 National Surfing Centre Surf School 52 Newquay Airport 53 Newquay Zoo 53 Porth Island 51 Run to the Sun Festival 52 Tolcarne 52 Towan Beach 52 Trenance Gardens 52 Watergate Bay 52 Waterworld 52
LIZARD PENINSULA 92
South West Coast Path 92
LOOE 38
Kilminorth Woods 39 Looe Island 38 Monkey Sanctuary 39 Old Guildhall Museum 38
MAWNAN SMITH 88
Carwinion 88 Giants Stride 88 Glendurgan 88 Heade Maze 88
LOSTWITHIEL 67
Boconnoc Estate 69 Braddock Down 68 Coulson Park 68 Great Hall 68 Lostwithiel Museum 68 Restormel Castle 68, 69 St Bartholomew Parish Church 68
MEVAGISSEY 74
Inner Harbour 74 Mevagissey Museum 74 Outer Harbour 74 The Aquarium 75 World of Model Railways 74
MINIONS 25
Minions Heritage Centre 25 Rillaton Barrow 25 The Hurlers 25
LUXULYAN 71
Treffry Viaduct 71
MORWENSTOW 11
Welcombe and Marsland Valleys Nature Reserve 12
NORTH PETHERWIN 22
Tamar Otter & Wildlife Centre 22
189

P
PADSTOW 46
Abbey House 48 Camel Trail 46 Doom Bar 46 Harbour 48 Harbour Cottage 48 National Lobster Hatchery 48 Prideaux Place 47 Raleighs Court House 48 Saints Way 46, 47 St Petroc Major Parish Church 47
PERRANPORTH 61
Millennium Sundial 61 Perranzabuloe Folk Museum 61 St Pirans Cross 61 The Oratory of St Piran 61
PORTHCOTHAN 49
Porth Mear 49
PORTHCURNO 112
Cribba Head 112 Gwennap Head 112 Minack Theatre 112 Parish Church of St Levan 112 Porthcurno Telegraph Museum 112
PERRANUTHNOE 104
Cudden Point 104 Parish Church of St Piran 104 Perran Sands 104 Victoria Inn 104 Village Crafts and Cornish Wools 104
PORTHGWARRA 113
Sweethearts Cove 113
PORTHLEVEN 98 PORTHTOWAN 60
Tywarnhale 61 Wheal Towan 60
POLDHU POINT 98
Marconi Centre 98 Marconi Monument 98
PAR 72
Little Hell Cove 72 Par Sands 72
POLPERRO 65
Chapel Hill 66 Couchs House 65 Harbour 65 House on the Props 65 Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing 66 St Tallan Parish Church 66 Talland Bay 66 Willy Willcocks Hole 66
PELYNT 40
Parish Church of St Nonna 40
PORTLOE 78 PORTREATH 85
Cornish Goldsmiths 86 Harbour 85 Hells Mouth 86 Mineral Tramway Walks 86 Tehidy 86 Treasure Park 86
PENDEEN 116
Geevor Tin Mine and Heritage Centre 116 Levant Beam Engine 116 Levant Mine 116 Pendeen Lighthouse 116 Portheras Cove 117
PORTSCATHO 79 PORTWRINKLE 36
Tregantle Fort 37
PENHALE CAMP 61
Langarroc 61
POLRUAN 66
Polruan Blockhouse 66
PENHALLOW 62
Cider Museum 63 Cornish Cyder Farm 62
POLSCOE 69 POLTESCO 95
Carleon Cove 95
POUGHILL 11
Bude Carnival 11 Revel and Cuckoo Fair 11 St Olafs Parish Church 11
PENRYN 83
Camborne School of Mines 83 Geological Museum 84
POLZEATH 43
Pentire Point 44 Rumps Point 44
POUNDSTOCK 14
Guildhouse 14 Penfound Manor 14 St Winwaloes Parish Church 14
PENTEWAN 73
All Saints Parish Church 73 Lost Gardens of Heligan 73 Pentewan Beach 73 Pentewan Valley 74
POOL 86
Cornish Mines and Engines 86 Cornwall Industrial Discovery Centre 86 Michells Engine House 86 Taylors Shaft 86
PRAA SANDS 99
Pengersick Castle 99
PROBUS 77
St Probuss and St Graces Parish Church 77 Trewithen House and Gardens 77
PENZANCE 107
Egyptian House 108 Golowan Festival 109 Jubilee Pool 109 Market House 108 Penlee House Gallery and Museum 109 Penzance Town Trail 107 The Union Hotel 108 Trewidden Garden 109
PORT GAVERNE 45 PORT ISAAC 44 PORT QUIN 44

Doyden Point 44
R
RAME 36
Church of St Germanus 36 Rame Head 36 St Michaels Chapel 36
PORTH 53
Trevelgue Head 53
PORTHALLOW 94
Nare Point 95
190

REDRUTH 87
Carn Brea 87 Shire Horse & Carriage Museum 87 St Unys Parish Church 87
ST ANNS CHAPEL 32
The Tamar Valley Donkey Park 32
ST ISSEY 48
St Isseys Parish Church 48
ST ANTHONY 79, 93
Dennis Head 94 St Anthony Battery 80 St Anthonys Lighthouse 79 St Anthonys Parish Church 94
ST IVES 100
Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden 102 Chapel of St Nicholas 100 Hurling the Silver Ball 100 John Knill 101 Knill Steeple 101 Leach Pottery 102 St Ias Parish Church 100 St Ives Head 100 St Ives Museum 101 St Ives Society of Artists 102 Steeple Woodland Nature Reserve 101 Tate St Ives 102
ROCHE 56
Hermitage 56 Roche Rock 56
ST AUSTELL 69
Cornish Alps 70 Holy Trinity Parish Church 70 Menacuddle Well 70 Pinetum Park and Pine Lodge Gardens 70 St Austell Brewery Visitor Centre 70
ROCK 43
Brea Hill 43
ROSE 62
St Pirans Round 62
ROSUDGEON 100
Prussia Cove 100
RUAN LANIHORNE 78
St Rumons Parish Church 78
ST BLAZEY 71
Eden Project 71 Eden Sessions 71 St Blazeys Parish Church 71
S
SALTASH 31
Guildhouse 31 Mary Newmans Cottage 31 Royal Albert Bridge 31 Tamar Bridge 31 Trematon Castle 31
ST JULIOT 18
St Juliot Parish Church 18
ST BURYAN 111
Boscawen-Un Stone Circle 112 St Buryans Parish Church 111
ST JUST IN ROSELAND 80
St Just Parish Church 80
ST JUST-IN-PENWITH 115
Ballowall Barrow 115 Cape Cornwall 115 Cape Cornwall Mine 115 Ordinalia 115 Plen-an-Gwary 115 Priests Cove 115 South West Coast Path 115 St Justs Parish Church 115
ST CLEER 25
Golitha Falls 26 King Donierts Stone 26 Trethevy Quoit 25
SANCREED 115
Sancreed Holy Well 115 St Credans Parish Church 115
ST CLEMENT 77
St Clements Parish Church 77
SEATON 39
Seaton Valley Countryside Park 39
ST CLETHER 22
St Clederus Parish Church 22
ST KEVERNE 94
Porthkerris Cove 94 St Kevernes Parish Church 94
SENNEN 114
Castle 114 Sennen Cove 114 St Sennen Parish Church 114
ST COLUMB MAJOR 54
Castle-an-Dinas 55 Cornish Birds of Prey Centre 55 Old Rectory 55 Red Lion Inn 55 Springfields Fun Park and Pony Centre 55 St Columbas Parish Church 54
ST KEW 46
Ogham Stone 46 St Kew and St Doghow Parish Church 46
SITHNEY 99
Sithney Treacle Mine 99 St Sidinius Parish Church 99
ST KEYNE 40
Magnificent Music Machines 40 St Keynes Well 40
ST AGNES 58
Chapel Porth 60 St Agnes Beacon 60 St Agnes Head 60 St Agnes Museum 59 St Agnes Parish Church 59 Trevaunance Cove 59 Wheal Coates 59 Wheal Kitty 59
ST DAY 86
Heritage Trail 86
ST ENDELLION 45
Parish Church of St Endelienta 45 St Endellion Music Festivals 46
ST MAWES 79
St Mawes Castle 79
ST MAWGAN 54
Japanese Garden and Bonsai Nursery 54 Lanherne 54 St Mawgan and St Nicholas Parish Church 54 The Falcon 54
ST GERMANS 37
Port Eliot 37 Sir William Moyles Almshouses 37 St Germans Parish Church 37
ST ALLEN 62
191

ST MELLION 32
St Mellion Golf Resort 32 St Enodoc Parish Church 43
V
VERYAN 78
Roundhouses 78
TREDINNICK 48
Cornwalls Crealy Great Adventure Park 48
ST MERRYN 50
St Merryns Parish Church 50 The Angels Runway 50
TREEN 112
Logan Rock 112 Treryn Dinas 112
ST MICHAEL CAERHAYS 75
Caerhays Castle 75 St Michaels Parish Church 75
W
WADEBRIDGE 41
Camel Trail 42 John Betjeman Centre 42 Nine Maidens 42 St Breock Downs 42 St Breock Downs Monolith 42 St Breocks Parish Church 42 St Petrocs Parish Church 42
TREGONY 77 TREGREHAN MILLS 72

Tregrehan Gardens 72
ST MINVER 45
St Menefredas Parish Church 45
ST NEOT 26
Carnglaze Caverns and The Rum Store 26 St Anietuss Parish Church 26
TRELIGHTS 45
Long Cross Victorian Gardens 45
TRELISSICK 80
King Harry Ferry 81 Trelissick Estate 80
ST NEWLYN EAST 57
East Wheal Rose 57 Lappa Valley Steam Railway 57
WARBSTOW 22
Warbstow Bury Hillfort 22
TREVERNA 88
Argal and College Water Park 88 Penjerrick 88
WARLEGGAN 26 WASHAWAY 30
Pencarrow House 30
STITHIANS 88
Parish Church of St Stithians 88 Stithians Reservoir 88
TREVONE 50 TREVOSE HEAD 50

Trevose Lighthouse 50
STRATTON 13
Anthony Payne 13 Battle of Stamford Hill 13 Bien Amee 13 St Andrews Parish Church 13 The Tree Inn 13
WEEK ST MARY 14
Dame Percyval 14 Penhallam 14 St Marys Parish Church 14
TREWARMETT 19
Beam Engine House 20 Jeffreys Pit 20
WENDRON 91
Poldark Mine Heritage Complex 91 St Wendrons Parish Church 91
TREWINT 24
Wesley Cottage 24
T
TINTAGEL 15
King Arthurs Great Halls 15 Old Post Office 16 Rocky Valley 16 Rocky Valley Carvings 16 St Materianas Parish Church 16 St Nectans Kieve 16 The Island 15 Tintagel Castle 15
TREYARNON 50
Constantine Bay 50 South West Coast Path 50
WHITSAND BAY 36 WIDEMOUTH BAY 14

Blackrock 14
TROON 87
King Edward Mine Museum 88
TRURO 75
Boscawen Park 76 Bosvigo Gardens 77 Cathedral 76 Courtney Library 76 Royal Cornwall Museum 76 The Hall for Cornwall 77 Victoria Gardens 76
Z
Zelah 62
Chyverton Garden 62
ZENNOR 106
Mulfra Quoit 107 Pendour Cove 107 St Senaras Parish Church 106 Wayside Folk Museum 107 Zennor Head 107 Zennor Quoit 107
TORPOINT 34
Antony House and Gardens 35 Hamoaze 34 St Johns Lake 35
TUCKINGMILL 87
TOWAN CROSS 63 TREBARWITH 19

Trebarwith Strand 19
U
UPTON CROSS 25
Cornish Yarg Cheese 25 Sterts Theatre 25
TREBETHERICK 43
Sir John Betjemans Grave 43
192

The Hidden Places of Cornwall

Cargado por

Información del documento

Derechos de autor

Formatos disponibles

Compartir este documento

Compartir o incrustar documentos

Opciones para compartir

¿Le pareció útil este documento?

¿Este contenido es inapropiado?

Copyright:

Formatos disponibles

The Hidden Places of Cornwall

Cargado por

Copyright:

Formatos disponibles

Looking for somewhere to stay, eat, drink or shop?

Other ebooks in the series

Travel Publishing Ltd

First Published: 1989 Third Edition: 1996 Fifth Edition: 2000

Second Edition: 1992 Fourth Edition: 1998 Sixth Edition: 2003

East Porthleven Beach. International Photobank / Alamy

See page 185