1

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are thankful to the L.D. institute of engineering to provide the

greatest opportunity to work on the topics like fabric defects, inspection
system & point grading system.

This project helps us to understand the importance in textile field

and the credit goes to our respected HOD G. C. BHRAMBHATT to
allow us to work on this project. So we also like to thank to him.

As per the older says nothing is possible without guidance and it

also affect our project. It will not be possible without the guidance of
Professor A. I. THAKKAR. So at last we want to thank to him.

2
1. INTRODUCTION ___4

2. TYPES OF DEFECTS ___6

2.1. WOVEN DEFECTS ___6

2.2. KNITTED DEFECTS ___7

2.3. GARMENT DEFECTS ___8

2.4. OTHERS DEFECTS ___9

3
1. INTRODUCTION

1.1. What is a Fabric Defect?

A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that

hinders its acceptability by the consumer.

1.2. Major defects are classified as follows:

Woven defects include slubs, hole, missing yarn,
conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiled yarn, wrong yarn.

Knitted defects include barre, thick yarn, thin yarn,

and holes, and broken needle, fly.

Dye or printing defects include dye spots, machine

stop, colour out, and shading.

Garment defects include faulty zippers, irregular

hemming, loose buttons, and raw edges.

1.3. What is a Defect-Free Fabric?

A Fabric that exhibits a consistent Performance
Within the boundaries of human use & human view. A
Fabric that exhibits a consistent Appearance Within the
human sight boundaries

4
1.4. What are the Factors that could lead to Fabric
Defects?
There are two types’ factors

MATERIAL-RELATED FACTORS:

• Fiber contaminants
• Excessive neps and seed coat fragments
• Excessive short fiber content
• Excessive trash content
• High variability between and within-mix
• Clusters of unfavorable fiber characteristics
• Weight variation
• Twist variation
• Excessive Hairiness

MACHINE-RELATED FACTORS:

• Failure of spinning preparation to eliminate or minimize short

and long-term variation
• Failure of opening and cleaning machines to completely
eliminate contaminants and trash particles
• Failure of the mixing machinery to provide a homogenous blend
• Excessive machine stops particularly during spinning
• Excessive ends piecing during spinning preparation
• Poor maintenance and housekeeping
• Weaving-related defects
• Knitting-related defects

5
 2. TYPES OF DEFECTS
2.1. Woven defect
2.2. Knitted defect
2.3. Garment defect
2.4. Other defect

2.1. WOVEN DEFECT:

According to [4] the woven fabric defects can be organized into
three basic categories. The weft direction defects, the warp direction
defects and defects with no directional dependence. Some of them in
the weft direction are irregular weft density, double pick, broken pick,
weft yarn defect, and float; defects in the warp direction are broken
end, double end and warp yarn defect. Defects with no directional
dependence involve defects: stain, hole and foreign body.

Structure without defect Hole Stain

Float Irregular end density Irregular pick density

Double end Double pick High tenacity

6
2.2. KNITTED DEFECT :

Broken thread Stain

Broken niddle (hole) Barre

Thick yarn Thin yarn

7
2.3. GARMENT DEFECT :

UNRAVELING SEAMS

UNRAVELING SEAMS
WITH Broken Stitch

RESTITCHED SEAMS

SAGGING OR
ROLLING POCKET

8
2.4. OTHER DEFECTS :

Small Bits of
contaminants Spun
into the Yarn

Filling Streaks &

Slubs of Varying
Lengths

Weak Spots
(Over-bleaching)

9
1. INTRODUCTION ___11

2. CLASSIFICATION ___11

3. EVS ___12

4. I-TEX ___13

5. BARCO (CYCLOPS) ___20

6. USTER ___26

10
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1. What is it?
Inspection in reference to quality control in apparel industry
can be defined as the visual examination or the review of raw
material partially finished component of garment in relation to
some standard, specification or requirement, as well as measuring
the garment to check if they meet required measurement.

1.2. Why is it required?

• To trace the source of defect, so that appropriate measures

can be taken to make use of the faulty fabrics.
• To minimize the future reoccurunce of the defect.
• To determine quality and hence the price of the fabric.
• To supply information to proper levels of management as to
the qualities being produced

2. CLASSIFICATION OF
INSPECTION SYSTEMS
2.1. MANUAL INSPECTION:

The manual inspection is usually carried out by

running the fabric in an open width form over a wide table
under appropriate illumination. Defect in a fabric can be
seen readily with these machines as the inspector has a very
good view & the fabric does not need to be reversed to
detect the defects at the back. The defects are located,
marked and recorded according to their type.

2.2. AUTOMATIC INSPECTION:

The field of fabric inspection has adopted automation

to detect faults after inspecting the fabric thoroughly.
Today’s automated fabric inspection systems are based on
adaptive, neural networks. They can learn. The users are able

11
 to simply scan a short length of good quality fabric to show
the inspection system what to expect. They are designed to
find and catalog defects in a wide variety of fabrics
including greige fabrics, sheeting, apparel fabrics, upholstery
fabrics, industrial fabrics, tire cord, finished fabrics, piece-
dyed fabrics and denim

3. E V S

ELBIT
VISION
SYSTEMS
Elbit Vision Systems is an innovative company that develops,
markets and supplies solutions, products and services worldwide for the
modernization and improvement of production processes by
computerized vision technology to the textile market in its various
applications - woven and non-woven, natural and synthetic fabrics,
denim, technical fabrics, as well as to other web inspection applications.
EVS systems automatically detect and categorize spinning, weaving,
finishing and other fabric defects, analyze the shade consistency of
fabrics or monitor printing processes with consistency, reliability and at
very high speeds.

EVS offers its consumers a wide range of inspection, monitoring

and software solutions, which can be integrated with their quality
standards, existing work methods and production lines.

EVS also presents utilization of the inspection data for improved

process control and upgraded quality control which result in operational
cost savings.

EVS maintains a global sales and service coverage with over 300
inspection systems installed in 25 countries.

12
4. I – TEX
Manual operation such as second inspection,
mending or roll cutting will be achieved more efficiently,
faster and its lower cost using I-TEX process.

• It offers :
o New dimension of accuracy.
o Reliability.
o Cost effectiveness in fabric inspection.

• Types of I-TEX Machines:

o I-TEX 1000
o I-TEX 2000
o I-TEX 2000D
o Loom tax
o Printex

4.1. I-TEX1000 :
• Greige & Industrial Fabric Automatic Inspection System

The I-TEX1000 is a computerized vision inspection system

that automatically detects, memorizes, locates and further grades
weaving defects on greige fabrics and process defects on several
industrial fabrics. The system is based on a state-of-the-art
technology of unique image understanding algorithms and structure
that imitate the human visual mechanism.

13
 • Benefits :

o Continued fabric quality improvement

o Substantial savings on inspection and operational
expenses
o Consistent and reliable quality standards
o Accurate and accessible quality data
o Reduced customer claims

I-TEX1000 is EVS’ new generation of Greige & Industrial fabric

automatic inspection systems. The system replaces EVS’ I-TEX100
system which has been utilized by hundreds of satisfied customers during
the last decade.

• The new I-TEX1000 features:

o New and modern human interface for easy operator

training and user friendly system operation.
o New frame for a “dust free” environment, which
enables maximum flexibility in cameras and
illumination design.
o Upgraded detection algorithms for higher inspection
level.
o Easy fabric styles and parameter setting.

Full integration with EVS’ advanced process tools for a tailor-

made quality process. I-TEX1000 Inspects 100% of the fabric, at fabric
speed up to 150 meters per minute. The system can detect defects as
small as 0.5 mm, such as the following multiple Greige defect types:

• Yarn and weaving faults

• Holes
• Oil stains
• Missing threads
• Starting marks
• Broken yarns

Virtually every visible defect is detectable by the system.

14
 I-TEX1000 can be configured and designed to fit your specific
application and needs. The system's modularity enables configuration that
matches your demands in the following categories:

• Fabric width
• Fabric speed
• Desired resolution (minimum defect size)
• Grading standards

External optional connecting devices: Length meter, Seam

detector, Visual alarm, UV/IR Ink marker, Metal label marker, Modem,
Data interface by Ether link III communication and a printer.

4.2. I-TEX2000 :
• Finished Fabric Automatic Inspection System

The I-TEX2000 is a computerized vision inspection system that

automatically detects, memorizes, displays and further grades - weaving,
dyeing, finishing, coating and yarn defects on fabrics. The system is
based on a state-of-the-art technology of unique image understanding
algorithms and structure that imitate the human visual mechanism.

• Benefits

o Continued fabric quality improvement

o Substantial savings on inspection and operational
expenses
o Consistent and reliable quality standards
o Accurate and accessible quality data

15
 o Reduced customer claims
I-TEX2000 is the only proven industrial solution for automatic
fabric inspection in textile dying and finishing processes. The ability to
automate the quality inspection process resulting in high inspection
performances convinced leading textile manufacturers to adapt the I-
TEX2000 solution and to continuously increase the number of I-TEX
2000 installations.

I-TEX2000 new model presents new features for better

performance and easier operation:

• New and modern human interface for easy operator training and
user friendly system operation.
• Full integration with shade variation analyzer (EVS' SVA Lite) for
the purpose of combining the fabric and shade defects into one
output.
• Up to 4 different lines of site and illuminations, for optimal
detection performances.
• Upgraded detection algorithms for higher inspection level.
• Easy fabric styles and parameter setting.
• Full integration with EVS' advanced process tools for a tailor made
quality process.

I-TEX 2000 Inspects 100% of the fabric at fabric speed up to 150

meters per minute. The system can detect defects as small as 0.5 mm,
such as the following multiple Finishing defect types:

• Yarn and weaving faults

• Holes
• Oil stains
• Missing threads
• Starting marks
• Broken yarns
• Water and dyestuff stains
• Dyeing and Finishing irregularities
• Virtually any visible defect is detectable by the system.

I-TEX2000 can be integrated in-line with existing production

processes, or used as an off-line unit with fabric winding machines. The
system is compatible with EVS' Shade Variation Analyzer - SVA Lite.
The system's modularity enables configuration that matches your
demands in the following categories:

16
 • Fabric width
• Fabric speed
• Desired resolution (minimum defect size)
• Grading standards
• External optional connecting devices: Length meter, Seam
detector, Visual alarm, UV/IR Ink marker, Metal labels marker,
Modem,
• Data interface by Ether link III communication and a printer.

4.3. I-TEX2000D
Denim Fabric Automatic Inspection System

The I-TEX2000D is a dual surface computerized vision inspection

system that automatically detects, memorizes, displays and further grades
weaving and finishing defects on Denim fabrics. The system is based on a
state-of-the-art technology of unique image understanding algorithms and
structure that imitate the human visual mechanism.

The worldwide denim industry is continuously growing, as is the

demand for denim quality. As a leader of Finished Fabric Automated
Inspection, EVS has set as its goal the design of a denim-compatible
inspection solution that meets manufactures requirements, including
denim new fashioned styles.

The I-TEX 2000D inspection is specially designed to optimize the

Denim fabric inspection:

17
 • Combines inspection results of front and back sides of Denim
fabric
• Optimal detection performances using up to 4 different lines of site
and illuminations
• Special detection algorithms designed to detect typical fashion
Denim fabric defects
• Easy fabric styles and parameter setting

New and modern human interface for easy operator training and
user friendly system operation.

Full integration with EVS’ advanced process tools for a tailor-

made quality process.

Full integration with shade variation analyzer (EVS’ SVA Lite) for
the purpose of combining the fabric and shade defects into one output

I-TEX 2000D inspects 100% of the fabric, at fabric speed up to

100 meters per minute. The system is also capable of inspecting the
modern Denim styles such as: Multi color, Cross Denim and Bicolor and
more. The system can detect defects as small as 0.5 mm, such as the
following multiple Denim defect types:

• Yarn and weaving faults

• Holes
• Oil stains
• Missing threads
• Starting marks
• Broken yarns
• Virtually any visible defect is detectable by the system.

I-TEX2000D can be integrated in-line with existing production

processes, or used as off-line unit with fabric winding machines.
The system is compatible with EVS' Shade Variation Analyzer (SVA
Lite), and its modularity enables configuration to match your demands in
the following categories:

• Fabric width
• Fabric speed
• Desired resolution (minimum defect size)
• Grading standards

18
 • External optional connecting devices: Length meter, Seam
detector, Visual alarm, UV/IR Ink marker, Metal label marker,
Modem, Data interface by Ether link III communication and a
printer.
4.4. LOOM-TEX
On – Loom Automatic Fabric Inspection System

Real-time detection of spinning and weaving defects within a

short distance of the reed, during the weaving process

Inspects 100% of the fabric Increases the yield

of 1st choice fabrics Eliminates Manuel
inspection reduces the need to cut out running
defects enables exact fabric length weaving,
while considering the actual
Defect rate Optimizes loom’s assignment
Real-time alarm informs of major defects
Stops the loom when warp and running defects
are detected

• LOOM-TEX modules:
o Full width fixed line video scanner
o Integrated dual illumination module
o Dedicated image processing computer for each loom
o Central computer for monitoring management

• LOOM-TEX utilizes proprietary image acquisition and processing

technologies, designed to fit with rough weaving conditions:
o No moving parts
o Configured for on loom/off loom take up
o Wide loom configuration up to 390 cm
o Sealed electronic module
o Remote diagnostics

LOOM-TEX inspects 100% of the fabric and selvage, suitable for a

wide range of applications such as: Technical fabrics, Apparel, Home
Furnishing, Silk, Shirting and more. Each loom performance can be
viewed in real time, displaying defect images, roll defect’s map and
statistical data.

• Detectable weaving defect types :

o Broken pick

19
 o Double pick
o Stop marks
o Double end
o Broken end
o Missing end
o Wrong draw
o Kinky filling
o Reed mark
o Density change and more,

• Central Monitoring and Management

A communication network interfaces several LOOM-TEX

systems in the weaving hall with the Central Computer which can be
located at the control room and which receives from each loom its
status and data. The Central Computer main screen displays the
weaving hall looms status and allows detailed viewing of each loom.
The systems software is also linked to EVS Video Album software
designed to store and review Inspection data.

5. BARCO
Barco’s automatic on-loom inspection system detects warp and
filling defects by means of a moving camera system installed on the off-
loom take up or integrated in the weaving machine.

In case of a warp defect or a concentration of filling defects, the

system stops the loom, lights a warning lamp in the loom’s light tree and
informs the defect nature and location on the loom’s micro-processor
display. The system holds the loom in the stopped position till the weaver
has made the “defect corrected” declaration.

Connected to Barco’s QualiMaster system, all defect information,

pick stamped, is sent to a fabric quality data base. This allows producing
defect maps and various types of quality reports.

20
21
5.1. QUALIMASTER
• Fabric Inspection and Optimized Cutting

Barco is proud to introduce “QualiMaster”; a Windows ®

based system for on-loom, grey and finished fabric inspection.
Installed as a stand alone system or as an extension to Barco’s
WeaveMaster production management system, QualiMaster offers
a powerful fabric inspection module that allows full quality
analysis and fabric classification in first, second, third,… quality.

Weaving plants equipped with the WeaveMaster production

monitoring system can integrate QualiMaster’s powerful “on-
loom” inspection package, thus minimizing the risk for off-quality
fabric in the weaving plant and reducing the workload in the grey
fabric inspection department.

For finished fabric inspection, special software for optimized

mapping and cutting allows to maximize the first quality yield with
a minimum of cut operations.

5.2. CYCLOPS PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION

The Cyclops on-loom inspection unit uses a moving image
acquisition head, consisting of a camera and illumination unit,
installed on the off-loom take up or above the cloth roll.

At a number of pre-defined positions, an image of the fabric

is taken and transferred to the image processing unit. Here,
proprietary algorithms are applied to analyze the texture of the
fabric and to detect deviations from standard. Any detected defect
is signaled to the loom.

22
 Setting up the Cyclops system is very simple. The scanning
range is self-adjusted to the fabric position and width by automatic
detection of the fabric boundaries.

Illumination and camera settings are optimized by the

calibration software module in relation to the optical characteristics
of the fabric. Also, the structure of the fabric is automatically
identified in order to calculate the algorithm parameters for optimal
defect detection.

5.3. CYCLOPS APPLICATIONS

• CYCLOPS installed on the batching motion

• CYCLOPS installed in the loom

23
 • CYCLOPS installed for glass fibre fabric

5.4. AUTOMATIC ON-LOOM INSPECTION

BARCO’s automatic on-loom inspection system detects
warp and filling defects by means of a moving camera system
installed on the off-loom take up. An automatic fabric inspection
system for each loom.

In case of a warp defect or a concentration of filling defects,

the system stops the loom, lights a warning lamp in the loom’s
light tree and informs the defect nature and location on the loom’s
micro-processor display. The system holds the loom in the stopped
position till the weaver has made the "defect corrected" declaration.

Cyclops avoids off quality fabric, in fact it stops your looms

if the quality is not perfect. No need anymore for expensive and
complicated automatic inspection systems or a manual inspection
for greige fabrics. So, on top of a better fabric quality the logistics
of your weaving mill gets simplified. Fabric can be sent directly to
processing, no more inventory between weaving and inspection.
Automated fabric inspection also avoids problems finishing the
fabric. The fabric is simply of a better quality.

Close collaboration with weaving machine builders allowed

Barco to install the Cyclops in the loom, right under the sand roller.
This shortens the distance between fell and defect detection
considerably, allowing to stop the weaving machine much earlier
in case of a running defect.

Connected to BARCO’s QualiMaster system, all defect

information, pick stamped, is sent to a fabric quality data base.
This allows producing defect maps and various types of quality
reports.

24
 CYCLOPS INTERACTION WITH
WEAVING MACHINE

 The on-loom inspection system communicates with the micro-

processor of the weaving machine. In case a running defect is detected,
the on-loom inspection system stops and holds the loom, preventing to
continue the production of defective fabric. Before the loom can be put
back in production, the weaver has to make a declaration, confirming that
the defect cause has been eliminated.
 The weaver’s declaration also allows to further specify the nature
of the defect for which the loom has been stopped by the Cyclops on-
loom inspection system.
 The loom will be stopped for any detected running warp defect as
well as for a too high concentration of weft or filling defects in a set
length of fabric.

25
5.5. CYCLOPS CONNECTION TO THE
QUALIMASTER SYSTEM
All detected defects are transmitted to the QualiMaster
system. In order to complete the information, each defect is marked
with time, date and pick stamp. This allows locating the defect in
the cloth roll, to generate quality reports by weaver, per shift, per
style and many more.

A typical application of QualiMaster is the “by pass”

software. At cloth roll doffing, the system formulates a fabric
quality advice. In case the fabric is judged to be first grade, based
on the number and concentration of the detected defects, the
system will indicate on the loom’s display that the cloth roll can
pass the greige cloth inspection and can be sent on directly for
further processing.

5.6. CYCLOPS INTERACTION WITH THE

WEAVING MACHINE
The on-loom inspection system communicates with the
micro-processor of the weaving machine. In case a running defect
is detected, the on-loom inspection system stops and holds the
loom, preventing to continue the production of defective fabric.
Before the loom can be put back in production, the weaver has to
make a declaration, confirming that the defect cause has been
eliminated.

The weaver’s declaration also allows to further specifying

the nature of the defect for which the loom has been stopped by the
Cyclops on-loom inspection system.

In order to help the weaver, a lamp in the loom’s light tree is

activated indicating the stop and a message on the loom’s display
informs the weaver that the loom is stopped because of a fabric
defect.

The loom will be stopped for any detected running warp

defect as well as for a too high concentration of weft or filling
defects in a set length of fabric.

26
 5.7. CYCLOPS SPECIFICATIONS
Camera: CMOS technology - 10 pixel/mm
Single panel looms (max 280 cm) - single camera
Double panel looms (max 500 cm) - dual camera
Illumination: infra red LED - option: blue LED allowing the
detection of stains
Scanning speed - standard version: 18 cm/sec, high speed
version: 54 cm/sec
Window: 60 x 45 mm
Automatic calibration
Communication with the loom: VDI, Ethernet, TCP/IP
Integration with the QualiMaster system
CTerminal for single machine evaluation

6. USTER

It classifies defects in a matrix called Uster Fabric lass, which is

similar to the well-known Uster Classimat system for yarns. Fabric lass
have two axes. On the y-axis is the contrast of the defect and on the x-
axis is the length of the defect. This allows the system to tell the
difference between disturbing defects versus non-disturbing defects. Data
on defects can also be stored in a relational database, allowing users to
generate any type of report that they need.

27
6.1. THE FUTURE: EXPECT AUTOMATED
INSPECTION TO GROW
EVS has been working for years to brand fabrics inspected
with its system using “I-Tex Inspected” stickers. The ability of a
mill to certify that its fabrics have undergone automated fabric
inspection could very well become a requirement for certain
applications or markets.

6.2. INSPECTION AND MEASURING

MACHINES EASILY EXAMINE YOUR
FABRICS FOR PRODUCTION DEFECTS

• Easy to operate
• Automatic Edge Alignment System
• Simple Tension Adjustment
• Cradle feed and rewind system
• Programmable counter for yards or meters
• Top and Bottom Illumination
• Models available to handle rolls up to 490 lbs (200 kg) and
83" (210 cm) in width
• Motor reversing switch to handle fabric which is rolled side
in or side out
• Optional Cut-Off Device

28
1. INTRODUCTION ___29

2. 10 POINT SYSTEM __29

3. 4 POINT SYSTEM ___29

4. 6 POINT SYSTEM ___30

5. GRANITEVILLE SYSTEM
___30

29
 1. INTRODUCTION
Fabric inspection and QC is one of the major areas in textile and
garment sector. To establish a workable system for inspecting and
evaluating piece goods shipments is vital. No single accepted system for
measuring the quality of fabrics, but some of the more commonly used
systems are described in this section.

We recommend a minimum of 10% inspection of fabrics prior to

spreading. Some are intending to inspect the goods while spreading.
However this is unrealistic and the spreaders are not the QC.

• TYPES OF GRADING SYSTEMS:

2. 10 POINT SYSTEM
In 1955, the Ten-Point System for piece goods evaluation
was approved and adopted by the Textile Distributor's Institute and
National Federation of Textiles. This system assigns penalty points
to each defect, depending on its length. The Ten-Point System is
somewhat complicated because points-per-length vary for warp
and filling defects. Table blow shows a breakdown of the points:

warp defect weft defect Point

up to 1” up to 1” 1
1” to 5” 1” to 5” 3
5” to 10” 5” to half width 5
10” to 36” > half width 10

3. 4 POINT SYSTEM
The Four-Point System has received the widest acceptance
in both the textile and needle trades because it is the most lenient.
It is simple and easy to understand. Since it is the most widely
used?

• Amount to Inspect - Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls in the

shipment.

30
 • Selection of Rolls Select at least one rolls of each color. If more
than one roll per color must be inspected, then select the number of
additional rolls in proportion to the total rolls per color received.

Total pts scored in a roll*3600

Points/100sq yd =
Fabric width (“)*Total yds inspected

LENGTH OF DEFECT POINTS ALLOTED

Upto 3” 1
3”-6” 2
Above 6” 3
Above 9” 4
HOLES
1”or less 2
Over 1” 4

4. 6-POINT GRADING SYSTEM

UP TO 25 CM 1 points
25 TO 50 CM 2 points
50 TO 74 CM 3 points
75 TO 99 CM 4 points
100 TO 124 CM 5 points
125 TO 150 CM 6 points

The average of all pieces must not exceed the range of 24-
26points per 100 sqrm for it being considered as a fresh quality.
However for individual pieces a range of 30 -32 points per 100
sqrm may be permissible

5. GRANITEVILLE SYSTEM
LENGTH OF DEFECT POINT ALLOTED
UPTO 9” 1
9” TO 18” 2
18” TO 27” 3

31
BIBLIOGRAPHY
• www.google.com
• www.ststus.com
• www.i-tex.com
• www.barco.com

32