MARY QUANT *

\

CLASSIC MAKE-UP

& BEAUTY

MARY QUANT CLASSIC MAKE-UP & BEAUTY

PHOTOGRAPHY ~UREEN BARRYMORE DAVE KING

•

OK PUBLlSHING, INC

WW\¥. d k. co l11

A GALLERY OF LOOKS

lee Maiden 10 • Sixties Style 12 • Nearly Natural 14 Autumn Glamour 16 • Pretty Face 18 • Forties Glitz 20 Active Aqua 22 • Spring Bride 24

UNDERSTANDI G YOUR SKIN

Discovering Your Skin TYIJe 28 • Analyzing Your Face Shape 30 Analyzing Your Coloring 32 • Choosing Colors 34

THE MAKEUP PALETTE

Essential Equipment 40 • Foundations 42 • Powders 44 Blushers 45 • Eyeshadows 46 • Eyeliners &: Mascaras 48 Lip Colors 50· Jail Polishes 52 • Skin &: Body Preparations 54

SKI! -CARE REGIME S

Cleansing 58 • Toning 60 • Moisturizing 61 • Removing Eye Makeup 62 • Removing Lipstick 63 • Face Packs 64 • Exfoliation 66 Steam Towel Treatmeut 67 • Firming Facial Massage 68

STEP-BY-STEP MAKEUP LESSSONS

Using Cake Foundation 74 • Using Liquid Foundation 76 Color Correcting 78 • Applying Blusher 80 • Shading &:

Highlighting 82 • Correcting Face Shapes 84 • Applying Eyeshadow 86 Applying Liquid Eyeliner 88 • Applying False Eyelashes 89 Applying Mascara 90 • Denning Eyebrows 92 • Effects for Eyes 94 Applying Lipstick & Lip Liner 96 • Effects for Lips 98 Manicure 100 • Effects [or Nails 102 • Effects Using Color 104

BODy-CARE PROGRAMS

Your Body 108 • Sun Protection 109 • Hand &: FOOL Care 110 Bath Treatment 112 • Daily Firming Massage 114

Body Scrub 116 • Cellulite reatment 117

INDEX US

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 120

INTRODUCTION

THE POWER OF MAKEUP

Makeup has the power to put you in t~1e mood for whatever lies ahead, It can make you more the person you want to be, and help you feel more at ease or pleased with yourself before launching into the fracas or fun to come. If you are happy with your makeup, you can forget about it and simply get on with life and the pleasure of being you,

1 hav e always been fascinated by the effect of makeup and color on the face. We are often afraid of changing our lipstick or eyeshadow color, but to do so is a way of [allowing fashion as it evolves. I am a believer in experimenting with color: Sometimes a new approach can create the most successful results, and this book will help you to choose and mix color palettes with ease.

DISCOVER THE NEW You

Style in makeup is something to explore. Try not to see your makeup as a form of camouflage; instead, use i.L as a way to bring out the best in your face and even as a way of showing another side of your personality, possibly one you never knew you had. Sometimes glamorous, sometimes pretty, sometimes as natural

as can be, the choice is as wide as you want to make it, and a collection of different looks is included here to inspire you.

THE TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Even if you have the best eye for fashion and color and the cleverest ideas for creating stylish new looks, the finished effect is more likely to be brash than beautiful if you do not know how to apply your makeup properly. But if you spend some time in front of the minor practicing the ground rules and acquiring the nicks of the trade, as revealed in the step-by-step makeup lessons, you will soon be running your liquid eyeliner along in one quick move, sculpting your cheekbones with nothing but a delicate sweep of blusher, outlining your lips to perfection, even applying a pair

of false eyelashes with ease.

LAYING THE FOUNDAT10NS

To be really successful, makeup must be applied to as clean and healthy a foundation as possible. That is why it is so important to follow a skin-care program and to be aware of the needs of your skin type; both are explained fully in the pages that

follow. You should also try to supplement your program as often as you can with a deep-cleansing treatment, such as a soothing face pack And do not stop at the face - pamper your body, too, with everything from a long, warm bath to a firming 1118ssage. Make time every day to spend on yourself so that you look and feel your very best This book is loaded with ideas to show you how. But remember - rules are made to be broken.

A GALLERY OF LOOKS

From dramatic evening glamour to barely-there natural

beauty, a wide range of looks can be achieved with clever

makeup alone. Here, I have chosen eight different styles

to suit every occasion

and every mood. And

to help you re-create each one, step-by-step instructions

explain how to build up to the finished look, while a visual

guide reveals all the cosmetics that you will need. Once you

feel confident enough,

try devising your own

looks, drawing on past and present fashions for inspiration.

ICE MAIDEN

-------MAKING THE FACE-------

»C'l »r r rr1

~

o .."

r o o ;x: ir.

The key to this cool, strong daytime look is the clever blending of pearly, pale eye,shadows White, lilac, pink, and coral work together to create a frosty, shimmering feel that is perfect for blightening bleak winter days. A pearly white. eyeshadow is also used to highlight the cheekbones and helps enhance. the pale, frosted effect- Lashes and brows are gently outlined in soft brown, while he orange Lips and light orange blusher make a dramatic contrast

and add a hint of summer LO the overall effect.

1 Moisturize and apply a cake foundation to the face unci neck. See pages 74-75.

2 Brush eyebrows ,NO shape and flJl in any gaps with a brown eyebrow penci I. See pages 92-93.

3 Usc a pearly white eyeshadow all over the eye area. Blend a lilac shadow along the socket line and under the lower lashes. Blend

a pearly pink shadow fl'0111 the center of rhe

lid outward. Dot in ncr corners with a coral

10 shadow. Sec pages 86-87.

-----STYLING TlPS--------,

• for an eXIra frosty !Ouch, use a palajowl£icl ticn d,w, JOLlr naw ral slli n tOIle and add a light dusting oj pearly powderto the [ac«, necll, and SllOllldas.

• To wrnplele the shimmering 100J1, choose a nail polish that pichI IIp 011 one oj [he

eyes hadow colo 1'5, SlIcit

as lilac or pearly pink.

• Do /10t apply too much eyeslwelolV (111 al once:jir-Sl

see how well you wn blend the colors LOgeti1er, YOll call always add more shadow if you lVant lhe effect to be strol1ger.

• This is a faidy sophi5ticated 10011 that needs simple btlt dramatic clothing - al1ything in Silver, black, or- midnight blue would increase lhe impact oj ti,e makeup.

4 Curl the eyelashes if necessary_ Gently brush lashes with light brown mascara. ec pages 90-91

the pearly while eyeshadow and use a Iigh t orange

b I usher underneath it.

Sec pages 80-81.

6 Outline the lips with ",n orangey brown lip liner and fill in with a matching lipstick.

ee pagcs 96-97,

THE FINAL LOOK

Cool, bright daytime colors cat'cJully blended /0 shimmering effect.

SIXTIES STYLE

Distinctive dark, smoky eyes and pale-colored lips re-create the mood of the 19605 and the stylish mod look for which Mary Quant is so i_.""--"-_<-J/ well known. However, this dramatic eye makeup is definitely not for [he faint-hearted. Charcoal shadow practically encircles the eyes, while the top and bottom lashes are Lined for emphasis and thoroughly coated with black mascara. The smooth-finished base helps accentuate the smoldering eyes, and a Iiglu dusting of blusher gives the barest hint of a healthy glow.

:-------STyLING TIPS ------0

• for all even more dramatic contrast, dwose a pala !ip color, such as Wl,i te.

thell bm h off aJtenva rd.

• A sharp SixlifS bob is peifer[ jar this 1001, .. Alternatively, (1)' bacilcombing hair tnto a marc Ulll1lly beehive Style.

• Use ollly a vely light dusting oj bl [Islu r - 100 '1111 ch WId yo u will look too healthy for tile 19605 s[yle.

• for a complete Six!ie look, go Jar clothes thO! match - a bl adl 1'010- ned, sweat e r IVa m willi a mOllOcilromc pantsuit or PHillisllift,jor example.

• Dust loose powdep· w\{lePllealh ,yes (0 catch color while applying eye~hado\V,

-------MAKING THE FACE-------

12

1 Moisturize and apply a pale cake foundation all over the face and Deck. Sec pages 74-75,

2 Brush eyebrows into shape and then darken with a brown eyebrow pencil Dr eyeshadow, See pnges 92- 93.

3 Gently brush a soft charcoal cyeshadow on 1,0 the lids and halfway Lip to the brow, and

coni in we undernear h the eye so that you al most create a circle, Blend" pearly beige shadow [rom the socket to the brow, under the lower lash line and iruo ih inner

corner. See pages 86-87,

4 Line the lOp lash line with black liquid eyeliner, drawing outward slightly at the corner. See pages 8 -89.

5 Curl eyelashes and apply at least lWO coats of mascara. See pages 90-91.

6 Line the bottom inner rim of the eye with a black koh I pcnci I. See pages 88-89.

7 Brush a pale pink blusher along the cheekbones, See pages 80-81.

8 0101' lips with a pale beige lipstick. Apply two coats ir necessary, See pages 96-97.

TliE FINAL LOOK Smole/cling eyes and pale lips r'e-crcme the riistincl1ve style

of dlC Sixties, 1

NEARLY NATURAL

The nearly natural or "barely there" look is possibly one of the hardest to achieve. It requires a light, skillful touch and very careful choice of color. The goal is to zive the complexion a healthy glow by using toundation and blusher that subtly enhance natural skin tone rather than disguising it, with blusher perfectly blended into the base. Eyelashes have been given only the lightest touch of mascara, and lips the barest brushing of lipstick Eyeshadow colors follow the rosy pink theme of the blusher.

------ STYLING TIPS -----

• Brush eyelashes llH-Oltgh carefully with an eyelash comb 10 mane sW'C that Imlles do not dump t()gether,

for extra healthy elJect.

or wear a titlled moislllrizer Oil its own,

• Nail should be squa.ish in shape and not too long, Coat with a dear or light pi n Ily be ige po I islL

• T cam wi th clot he, made from natural Jabti's, such as cotton and linen, to continue til e f res It theme.

• Choose a Jo","lation v iLIt a sunscreen or added moiS/lIrizer

• Accenruere the naturallooh with hair that 100ilS sleek. s/'iny, and healthy.

--------MAKING THE FACE--------

1 Moisturlze and apply a naturalcoloredllqutd loundauon. Dust with a translucent powder. See pages 76-77,

3 Use a pink cyeshadow on the whole eye area and a brown cyeshadow 011 the lid. Brush a darker pink along the socket line and blend, Brush I he brown shadow under til bouom lashes and use a slightly darker shade on I he top

14 lash Ii nc, Sec pages 86-87,

Eycslooriow

2 Brush cvebrows into shape and then brush on a browny gray eyesha low, See pages 92- 93,

4 Curl the eyelashes if

, necessary. Lightly coat top and bouorn lashe wuh black mascara. See pages 90-91.

5 Dust the apples of the cheeks with a soft pink blusher 10 Creme a natural healthy glow, See pages 80-81

6 lightly brush on a gentle red lipstick thai lOnCS well with the blusher, See pnge 96-97.

niE FINAL LOOK "Barely there" l11a}leup ShOLdc1 give the face a heallhy, natural glow.

;; r

AUTUMN GLAMOUR

Apalette of rich fall colors

creates this soft but decidedly glamorous look. Suitable for day and evening, it is based on subtle textures and clever shading, using plenty of dark plums and dusky pinks. Eyes are soft, smudgy, and warm, lips are dark, sensual, and fuHperfectly balanced by a warm-toned base and a plum blusher. To complete the effect, choose an accessory that enhances the hair and also blends with and supports the mood of the makeup, such as these dried roses.

:------STyLING TIPS ------,

• Smudge fyeshadows 10 crecre a soJter, richer look

• eh oose all eyeb row pe neil that is nearest to your rla/llral shade, al1d if you are shaping

: your eyebr'ows, always pll,[erl , [rom u ndemeClth.

• Use two COats oj mascara (0 give eyes a dar'ker, more sui!!), eJJw

• To enhance the look, choose clothes in the same rich colors - allY thing in \Ie/vel l,;auld work es peria Ily well.

• For' extra spar/lie, add some shiny accessories such as a diamanit hair dip or necklace.

• Avoid severe, tightly drmvil hai r styles; choose a soft look awt genrly frames the [ace.

-------MAKING THE FACE-------

1 Apply" warm beige cake foundation. See pages H-75

2 Brush eyebrows into shape and fill in all)' gaps with a brown eyebrow pencil. Sec pnges 92-93,

3 Apply a dusky pink cyeshadow over the lid to even out lone. Brush a dark purple shadow from [he inner corner to the cuter corner, blending well. Continue the dark purple shadow under the bouorn lashes, smudging gently. Apply a rust eyeshadow along the SOChl and blend toward the brow. See

pages 86-87.

7 Line lips with a claret lip liner and fill in with a plum lipstick 10 give a full effect. See pages 96-97.

16

5 Give top and

bouorn lashes" generous coal of black mascara, See pagcs 90-9l.

6 Color cheeks wid, a warm plum blusher. See pages 80-81.

TI'le FINAL LOOI{ Very dramClti • ihis

style wOltld be p rfe IJor I.heatel· trips or glm71Orolfs dil1ner parties.

18

PRETTY FACE

Pretty pastel colors are combined for a Salt yet striking look that is perfect [or midsummer makeup, The really good news about pastels is that they are much easier to apply than the stronger, more definite eyeshadow colors, such as brown OY charcoal Here, the lilacs and blues used around the eyes are beautifully balanced by soft pink lips and a light dusting of pink blusher on the apples or the cheeks. Eyebrows are neatly arched to help open up the eye area and so show 0[[ the delicate pastel shades ellen more,

,-----------STYLING TIps -----------,

• If yo" ",'e afraid oJ looking lOO "doll,Wle," YOII cnn harden tilE pasle.! shades by changing the lip eolor Jrom lilt 50JI pink 10 Q WOllg, dramolic "ed.

• Use a nail polisll ill a eolTf5ponding pCl>tel shade.

• CiJoose "0-Ju5S, Ilo-Jlil/, dOlhes ill eolors that will in'tease d\ e i m pa CI oJ the pastel makeup,

• It i5 imporlant to SOJlell tile eye/illffJOf illis look by brushing o~a with WI eyeslladow as d05E 10 tile

la5i1 linens po,sibl~,

• S!yling hair away Jrom tile [ace - in a Iligll, spiky pOllywil, Jor example - Q.lso I.elp5 to

s [rcngtll en the eIf ert,

-------MAKING THE FACE-------

1 Moisllll'ize and apply ,~ liquid [cundarion that closely matches

),00' r ski n colo,'. D"Sl

wit h (1 iranslucen L powder, See pages 76-77.

4 Line the lOp lash llne

wi ih a. !1a"ye)'e pencil. Brush over wi th ,1 blue-gray shadow to solien and continue under the hallam lash line, See pages 88-89,

2 Brush eyebrows into shape and then emphasize their naILL1'" I arch with a dark

5 Curl the lashes if necessary, Coal top and bouorn lashes with black mascara, See pages 90-91.

3 Apply a beige cycshadow allover the eye a rea and then usc a blue cycshadow on the eye I id, blend) ng up

LO the brow, Brush on a lilac shadow f rom the CCP1lCl' 01 'he lid to the cuter comer, blending well. I-lighligh, the brow wil h a pearly lilac shadow, See pag~s 86-87,

6 DUSI the apples of the cheeks ,'err lightly wit h a pi nk bl usher. See pages 80- 81.

Lipwlor

7 Outline [he lips wuh ~ pink lip I mer and apply 11 pi nk

n p color. See pages 96-97,

..,

> r n

TI-IE FINAL LOOK

P,"clly pastc/ colors gellliy hlended togetiler give a soft !Jut willing effect.

------STYLING TIPS -----.

FORTIES GLITZ

Strang eyeliner, matte makeup, and

rich red lips Set a sophisticated and elegant style that draws on the 1940s For inspiration The shape of

L_ C'O the face is given greater definition

by highlighti.ng features [0 create a more sculpted look Eyebrows are neatly arched to emphasize

the sleekness of the eyeliner, and clever use of blusher makes the cheekbones look hi.gh and perfectly defined. This look works well lor evenings because u gives features greater emphasis

. and has a dreamy nostalgic feel,

• Do nOI compromise on tl'e strOllg red I ipsli d, -ll liglHe!" color would dmw al!cntiOPI

a "'''y J rom [h e III OJ' a, tllld ilia/,e [he eyes 10011 too heavy.

• For ,-'(Ira impact, IVear clothes wirh a 19~Os Jeel,

such as an elegaru fitted suit, or a d essie [wi 11 se I and II -I inc skirl or dreSS. Clip-on earling> or a simple pearillecklacc will add 10 the overall effw.

• Always allow masmra 10 dry between COalS or you willlwt be able to build IIp enough color.

• !fym, do /101 have wavy hail', lIy ell dillg it wirh a cu "!ing iTOl1 alld then brmhing through 10 leave a gentle wave.

• if you lise (I collcealer, malle slIre it blends wi!!, the base.

-------MAKING THE FACE-------

1 Moisturize and apply a tightcolored liquid

Iou ndnuon to the race an I neck Dust with a translucent powder. See pages 76-77.

2 Brush eyebrows

w it h a bmw" eyeshadow and I hen emphasize

I heir natural arch IV i th a brown eyebrow pencil. Sec page 92-93.

3' Apply a sandy-colored cvcshadow all over the eye area C1P 10 the eyebrow. Then usc a brown shadow on the lid only, blending well. Sec pages 86-87.

4 U:IC the 101' lash line with black liquid eyeliner, weeping geruly out at ihe corners. Brush an a charcoal eyeshadow 10 soften. eo pages 88-89.

5 Curl rhe lashes if

nccc ary. Apply three cents or mascara 10 lap lashes, sweeping diagonally through. ee page 90-91.

7 Outline the lips wlth a red lip liner and fill in with a slrang red matte lipstick. BIOI wirh a ussue nnd reapply color, Sec pagcs 96-97.

20

L

lip.<!icil

II·If'. FINAL LOOK

By ltigilliglilJng (wi d~fil1il1g IllCIcattll'c , (,liis sopnislicatcd, slech rnalleup creal s

a 100/1 ilw( worhs paniwlady wcllfm' evenings.

2

,-------- STYLING TIPS ----------:

ACTIVE AQUA

This vibrant, waterproof style is designed for long, hot ummer days when you want to spend as much time as possible outdoors and be completely confident that your makeup is not running or smudging. The eye area is brightened and enlarged wuh a specially formulated eye foundation instead ol eyeshadows, and lashes are gently defined with a light coating of waterproof mascara. A hint of Cream blusher and strong orange lips add a glamorous touch to an essentially sporty look

1 Moisturize and apply a natu ral-co lored cake [oundation. See pages i4-75.

2 Use a specially formulated eye [oundation "II over the eye area 10 even ouithc skin lone Sec pnges 86-87.

3 Brush eyebrows iruo shape nnd fill in any gaps with a brown eye] row pencil. Sec pages 92-93.

22

• Before l.sing a waterproof 11Ja5wm, always cileell [hat ym. have a suitable remover for i L

rather [han allythingfonnal or Jrilly. Minimize jewehy and acees cries: they are not ill keep i ng wi [h tl! is 5 tyl e.

• Paint nails in a slr'ong color that eW,er marches or' balallce5 the vibrant tone oj the lipstick, wdl as the orange lips and red nails shown here.

• This type oj makeup works we!! with a shmply (1.11 hair style swh as a well-deJined bOY-CII! - avoid allY thing that migllt look over-styleel. Keep long hair oul oj the way in a iligh pOllyWil.

• Tilis is f1 r elaxed daytime effect thalsuits activewwf

4 Curl eyelashes if necessary and lightly coat top and bottom l.a511"" wuh waterproof black mascara. See pages 90-91.

5 Gently blend an

orange cream blusher in circles OOlO the cheekbones. See pages 80-81.

6 Line lips with a dark orange lip liner and fill in with an orange lip

pencil or lip color. ce pages 96-97.

Up I'c,,<i1

TilE fiNAL l.OOK

A strollg alld sporty II'CllnprooJ sly/!; 10 help you /lIe/he the mOSI of hot swnp'lIa days.

;I: r

,_ -

<:

!"l

,...------ STYLll\,1G TIPS ---------,

SPRING BRIDE

1i~~r5:l0 A romantic fairy-tale style for those n special occasions when you have to look your very best, The secret is a makeup style [hat is beautiful and bewitching, but never heavy or harsh, Skin looks natural and fresh with JUSt the lightest touch of a pale foundation and a dusting of blusher, while eyes are clear and captivating.

The strong mahogany color of the lips strikes an unusual note and introduces a more grown-up edge, Tightly curled locks frame the whole face

and help enhance the pre-Raphaelite effect

• Do not: be tempted io wear 100 mild, llIC15cara; this wOllld ma/le the eyes loofl too heavy Qnd dad, for the fresh, ,'omanlic mood.

natural WId IInoblnlsive as possible but ill l1eeping with the fOily-tale p,inecss style. Fresh flowers and greenery loofl great woven illW textllred hair.

• T,y pail1ling nail with

green poli>h to enhance the 10011 oj rhe accessories.

• To achieve thi> hair style, curl hoi r tigluly all over and then bnlsh through. sepamtil1g curls QLa slightly, Ailemativdy. pLlt hair lip iJ1 a loose bun wiln ge11lle lendilis hanging dowlI.

• Chaos i ng tile ligh t eccesse Ii es is vel)' importanL Keep them Q5

-------MAKING THE FACE-------

CaJ1f!joundalroll

1 Moisturize and apply a vcry pale cake foundation to the face and neck, See pages 74-75,

24

2 Brush cyCb]'OW5 into shape and gently "II in any gaps with a brown eyeshadow.

See pages 92-93,

3 Cover the eyelid with a ligh I. green cyeshadow. Use a coral eyeshadow along the socket Ii ne and blend up to the brow. Brush a dark green shadow from the center of the Ii ILO rhc OULcr corner, Use the dark green shadow

to Ii ne I he top and bouom lashes, See pages 86-89.

Up glos<

4 Curl the eyelashe u neces.sary, Brush lashes wuh black mascara but be careful not to apply 100 much. See pages 90-91.

5 DUSl the cheekbones lighll)' \ uh a dark orange blusher and blend well. See pages 80-81.

6 Line lips with a mahogany lip liner. Fill in with a matching

lipstick and finish off with a clear-effeci ltp gloss, See pages 96-97.

Lipsilcil

THE FINAL LOOK

A rOm'lnlicJaily-tale style for exLrci-special occasions.

2'

UNDERSTANDING YOUR SKIN

Knowing your real skin type and understanding your

true coloring are the first and most important steps you can

take toward using cosmetics effectively and making the

most of every feature.

In this section, easy-to-

follow charts, diagrams, and comprehensive color palettes

for all types of complexions allow you to find out exactly

what makeup will work for you and why. If you get the

basics right, you will

be well on your way

to achieving the very best from your makeup every time.

DISCOVERING YOUR SKIN TYPE

The first, most important step you can take toward caring for your skin properly is to choose the right cleansing products for your particular skin type. The skin on your face is under constant attack from both inside and out, with elements such as the sun and wind causing wrinkles to develop prematurely, and poor diet leading to acne and oiliness. Factors such as stress, pollution, and the changing seasons can also take their toll,

making skin look dull, flaky, and lifeless .. To combat these enemies, skin needs to be well cared for throughout your life. Moreover, as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers become increasingly sophisticated, it is especially important to use the right one for your skin type Examine your skill first thing in the morning, then use the chart below to assess which type you are and discover which kinds of products to use and which to avoid.

CHARACTERISTiCS OF DlFFERENT SKIN TYPES

CLEANS!! G

Use a creamy liquid Or cream cleanser, a water-soluble cleanser Or gentle facial soap.

(See also pages 58-59.)

NORMAL SKIN

Looks; Clear wuh an even lex urre. Feels: SO[I and smooth.

Problems: Pimples n"'~' occasionally break out, particularly around the chill and nose; dry patches can develop if skin is not cleansed and moist urizerl.

Use a cream cleanser, a very rich liquid cleanser, Or a moisrunaing. nonperfurned soap, bur rinse

off thoroughly.

(See also pages 58-59.)

DRY SKIN

Looks: "Thin" or papery with fine pores, and is prone to broken veins on the cheeks,

Fee Is: Tight after cleansing, ami can react

by becoming red and blotchy.

Problems: Lacks moisture because skin does not produce enough sebum, the skin'~ lubricating oil. Develops lines more easily than other skin lypes.

Use a ligh! louon Or a milk cleanser; treat severe skin eruptions wuh a rned teared liquid cleanser.

(See also pages 58-59.)

OIL\' OR COMBINATION SKIN

Looks: Shin)' and greasy; combination skin has only patches of oiliness, parucularly around the nose. chin. and forehead.

Feels: Uneven and rough.

Prob lems: Prone to pi rnples, blackheads. and enlarged pores: combination skin may have

patch s of dryness on the cheeks, as well as acne.

Use a hypoallergenic cleanser that is free of possible irritants Or allergic substances. Avoid using soap, which Can strip awa), the skin's prorective layer and so make u more sensluvc.

(Sec also pages 58-59.)

5 ENS ITIV E 5 KIN

Looks; Clear. but easily becomes red and blotchy. Feels; Hot, burning, or ,tinging when irrhaied. Problems: Reacts when it comes into contact with an allergen or an irri taru, either cxrerna lly or internally: can develop swellings, bumps under the skin, and Ilakmess.

28

THE SKIN'S STRUCTURE

The skin is the body's largest organ

and its main function is to provide a protective covering, although it also regldmes body temperature and registers touch. pressure, and pain. It is made up of thousands of cornponerus, including sweat glands, oil-producing (sebaceous) glands, blood vessels, nerve endings, hair follicles, collagen fibers, rat cells, and sweat pores. The visible skin on the surface of the body is only a small part

of this complex organ. Skin has three layers: (he epidermis (the top outer layer), the dermis (true skin), and the hypodermis (the bouom layer).

The epirlenllis i.' the body's walerpmof (OVering ""d (Onsists of dead and dying cdls tlla! ate conslmHly beil1g ,·.placed by rr"w 51"" cells forn'ed in tile demas.

TI,e denllis is siwated IUlderrlwlh the epider·mis mId conwi.,s mOSI of Ihe shin's living srrucrnres s"ch 1IS blood vessels, Herve e;ldirlgs~ cmd sebaceous and sweat glmla5. II allO indude, col/agel( Jibers, ""Iiel, gi"" tile ,I, ill .'l!"engt/! and resilience.

Tile hypodermis is the deepesl layer. II is corrlposr'd ",airliy of [a: cells, wMell cushio" Ihe blaad, lymph. "nd nen'OlIS systems, ""d Ile/p prescrl'f body heel/.

{ - - -~. Sw'a!l""':S

:::::.:~-;---"" ~

\ /r?), ~ ~ -;::::..

~(r!J ._/'" ~ ,

~!-\- -,_ __ Scbelccol<s

gland _+ __ .;.0-1[- Nerve endings ___ Blood ",,,<I ,

, \ S wem gland

__ Collag""

~ ~li)'L-C~ ~UU ttc- j -- Fat cell'

TONING

Use a loner with or without alcohol, rosewater or a sull mineral water spray.

(See also page 60.)

Use" mild alcohol-free loner, rosewater, or cool water.

(See also page 60.)

I

MOISTURIZING

Use a light cream Or lotion. preferably with an added sunscreen. (See also page 61.)

Use an enriching. protective cream formula, preferably with an added sunscreen.

(See also page 61.)

Tips AND CAUTIONS

Tip: Nonnal sllin needs jU5l as mud1 aUerrlion ns (11)" oily, or sClISit lve sllin, especially if ""posed w extremes oj wmpcranu'c.

CUliriou: Be ca re/u I not 10 lise produ({s lltllt I'nl'" a tendelley 10 tl,), OIU Ihe sl"", ~u,h (IS tOUCf5 ,yilh a I'igl' alcohol COme'll.

Tip: Pay pari iwlar auem iOll 10 lIIoi5turi"ing. especially Ihe delicate 51"" arorllld )'0 til' eyes.

Cautioll: Checl! labels {O nwlle sure you do 1101 lise any producl' tJ,at conw,,, oleolwl.

I

Usc an alcoho l-bascd to ncr, but avoid those that contain simple alcohols such as ethanol, methanol, and isopropyl - these can be harsh and dry out the skin more.

( ee also page 60.)

Usc a hypoallergenic Or alcohol-free Loner.

(See also page 60.)

Use a light, non-oily formula, preferably with an added sunscreen; should also be noncomedugenic

(it won't block pores).

(See also page 6 L)

Use. hypoatlergernc protective cream, preferably with an added sunscreen.

(See also page 61.)

Til'S: MOisturize rile ",dl (]rul d'ce/Is IlwrQl'ghly as tilese areas WII become quile dry; trCal pimples with" cleansing srick

Ca" lion" Do IWt be Icmpled W nse It<1rsl, de£lrlSC''-S or-loners as these wlll.srrip avulY nalUral oils. I ever IJic/, ell hillel, heads or

pi m pl"s: COIlS" II )'0" ,. doc to r if lie 11 e clevel aI's.

Tip: Walch for hypoallergcllic cosmetic ,mel sun-rnre products! roo,

C£II!liD'I: Ne\)el' U.Sf! new prod!l(tS Wilho[j'i teslillg ll re mfirsl and waitillg 24 hom·s to see if a reacliol! develops (see page 5 ).

2

I

ANALYZING YOUR FACE SHAPE

-------BASIC FACE SHAPES-------

To use makeup effectively, you need to be aware ol the exact shape of your [ace. Unfortunately, Few of us are blessed with the perfect oval and instead fall into the categories of square, heart, round, or long, as well as oblong or triangle,

and some of us may be mixtures of these shapes. To analyze your face shape, pull your hair back from your forehead so you can get an overall picture and examine your bone Structure carefully in a mirror. Look at your cheekbones, the shape or

30

your jawline and forehead, and the Fullness of your cheeks Pick out your key features and then compare your analysis with the five different face shapes shown here. Once you are aware of the true shape of your face, you can learn how to apply foundation and blusher to create more of an oval outline (see pages 82-83) lf you think that your face is a mixture of different shapes, take the key features you can recognize and correct them accordingly (see pages 84-85).

SQUARE

This shape is easily identified b), its solid bone structure and square jawline. The forehead is wide and angled, while the cheekbones tend to be nat and ,,H1 norlceablc. Cheeks of len look plump.

FIICIIIL Ai'MtYStS

FDn:JIL'ati; 5qmlrc and angled

C heell bOil es:

Flm

C"c"iIs: PI"",,, m"lfi,11

HEART

This face is marked b)' being broad at the top and narrow at the bouom. It can appear long. 100. (mel the chin pointed and prominent. Cheekbones may be high, but of len do nOI show because of the width or the race.

ACIAL AN,\LYSIS

forehead: \Vidc a",1 flm

Cjlt:ej':l)o~~e5:

CClIIoeMgil bill !£leI: r,uplrtlSis l,"ctwsc oj Iile "'i,III, oflhc "Pl' .... f"'"

inla rj IllH'TOW, {milJjcd chiu

ROUND

Here, the forehead, cheeks, and chin practically form a circle, which can make features look nat and uninteresting. The cheeks are often plump and full, obscuring the cheekbones.

FACIAL ANALYSIS

Ford""d: lVidc and curved

--r::=-- Chfd,,: FilII. 110 angres

)<lwi'rlc: Nalfmoon sIJ(lpf!

LONG

This shape can have either a tong forehead or a long chin; features may look drawn and rather raw-boned. creating tl tired effect Cheekbones lack lift because of the length of the face.

F,\CIAL ANALYSIS

Fareile(lCt Long lll1d wide

_-.-L_ Clted,boll"" low (IJld }leu

OVAL

The oval face shape has high, sculpted cheekbone

with a softly curved jawline that ftnishes in a delicate chin.

The length of the forehead balances the lower pan of the face and [eatures look even and neat.

F,\CIJ\L A Ni\I.YS I

31

ClleeldJoPlcs: mgll,mt/

s ulp!<ti ---f-

Jawl'lle; GC'ljly cu.nrctl wil/r a dc-Heme, ,\Itllr

d~fr"cd d,l" -\::

F",..lwud: GeMly wl,,:rea! mrrroring 'he shope of the loweT pan oj,l,ef"'"

Nicdy anglecl

mixture of red and yellow; and red - pinkish skin tones without much yellow. Compare your clean skin with the examples shown below to determine which color group you fall into and whether you are pale, medium or dark-toned. Never choose a loundation shade that is outside your own color group, although you can go for a shade lighter or darker depending on the time of year and the effect you want to achieve.

ANALYZING YOUR COLORING

Sof, beige

To ensure foundation looks natural you need to choose a shade [hat closely resembles your own coloring. Although we all know what color hair we have, we are sometimes surprisingly ignorant about the color of our skin, and choose a foundation just because we like the look of it Nobodys skin is exactly the same as anyone else's, but we do all fit into distinct groups of color tones: yellow - ivory complexions without much redness; orange - a

32

YELLOW TONES

A very pareJ yellow-based amll?k~'{;ml wilh no hrm of "ednel,~. A tl j Yo ty~ coJ (J red fOUHd,ltioP1 wW give a I'0li,ilell, 11(rj~rmr.IO{}jljl'lg fi"isiL

A dcc!,e,'0'""</ yellow compfe.),"joll C(.IU he gJ ven 'WlIU"(j r .cO\j~mg,c wrrll

a soj,iJois" j()ulld(JUotl

.Itm lias more l1wlltl him

of 'cIlow.

ORANGE To ES

A I"d., ora"s.· roned wioring Wilh (~ scaltcrillg oj goldc" J"dll",A'-I Q,r(lJtgry beige jOlmdali(:m 1,lilll i'Uorcydlow

d ran red f ones \\I'o")I-5IJt.!'S"f.

rangey beige

omnge" l:oforrng wirh ~;ljgIH t't:d'le.~5

011 die chcchs. TIlt!

riglll shatlc oj jowu1cHiot1 wm 1111 c ,fl.e same /Jrljemcea mtxtufr of rcd (mil yellow.

MATCHING FOUNDATION

When choosing a foundation, always test the color by rubbing a small amount

011 to a patch of clean skin along yo ur jawline (but not on the wrist, neck, or cheeks as the skin here is a different shade and texture from the rest of your face). Testing foundation along the jawline will also ensure thai yOll do

not create a "tidemark" effect between the foundation on your [ace and the

bare skin on your neck. If possible, go OUl of the Store into natural daylight

and usc a hand mirror to examine the color of the sample foundation; artificial store lighting can alter colors quite

dramatically. You should also try to give the foundation time to seule (preferably a few minutes) as SOme can noticeably change color. parucu larly on oily skin. The right shade of loundauon will "blend" onto )'our skin, while smoothing om uneven tones and giving you a nearperfect complexion (see pages (4-77).

if you want to "lil;" )'our skin tone, wear a foundation ihar has slightly more pink than your natural shade.

T esr joul'lrlmion ~JJo'lg Irtf jm\jHm~

>Z >-

t< t::! z Cl

-< o c ;:0

n o r-' o :;;:I

Z

Cl

ORANGE TONES

RED To ES

A decpc,'I(}IH.:d ,golden sil(l(k lvrrh ~IcJtjyoJ Jr~clllc,. Tid, w/oring Ilccds (j!(Jlrlld(jliOtl with man! red dwn rel/mv.

n[~ tYI'" 'if ,/"'), sldn 1J(j~ (krmitl~ go r de~ I I r J rdel' OHC:t;_

Fop' Jrmjl't'.nr

A J1<lletoned p;11h coltll'kxion wid] n:drH!5.5 slu;n'lfing

p('jj~lrCU rt:.ldy OJt ,/,e dice/IS. A soj' (JIPlI~ Joul1da!jon will give (J fighf, \\I(,,.mjill isll.

A deeperiOrwd pilill WPl11"rf::X'i01I,a'SQ w[,/, a jI'tsi. all '/re ""clls. P[lIl1y !>,:igo Jo"lttlmiQn will sulr rh,s dClJ"llcr shade.

33

CHOOSING COLORS

The crucial point about choosing colors is nor to set yourself too many rules - all too olren, for example, redheads are told to stick to coppery brown eyeshadows and brownmascara, while

those wi th black skin are usually advised to avoid pinks and blues and to wear nothing but the most muted of lip colors. But this kind of approach [0 color is limiting; it is only by experimenting with different color palettes - and breaking some of the rules - that you will be able to find the makeup that works best lor you and create an exciting range of lresh, new looks (see pages 104-105). The only element [or which there is very little room lor maneuvering is your [oundariou, which should always match your natural skin LOne as closely as possible (see pages 32-33). To stan choosing makeup palettes to suit your natural coloring, take the selections shown here as basic starting points that you call build on and develop according to

the different effects you want to achieve.

THE INfLUENCE OF FASHION

Your choice 01 makeup wil] also be influenced by the style and color of your clothes. Picking out one bright shade from an item of clothing or jewelry and choosing a highlight eyeshadow 1O match is an easy way to experiment with more daring colors. Simply dab a little 01 the color onto the cente r 0 r the eyelid, smudge, and blend into

a neutral-colored base. Because fashion colors are constantly changing, you will need to experiment with new palettes on a regular basis to Find the products that work best For you Styles of makeup change, teo. For example, bright lips might be partnered by barely made-up eyes one season, while dark, dramatic eyes and pale, insignificanr lips will be the only choice [or the next. So to make the most of todays ever-expanding range of makeup colors, you need to keep one eye on what is happening in the fashion world and the other on 'what suits your natural coloring.

-------~BLACK SKIN--------

BLACK SKIN

Warm beige, golden brown, burgundy, and terra-coua are the play-safe choices for black skin.

Be more adventurous by creating u corurast with pearly lilacs and bright bl UI!S.

34

EI'I'SHIIDOWS.

BdShl blue und I)C;l rl y

H lac: Fa r IUJ M., l.niglu iml'~jCl

Black eycllncr: Gi\'o!:'s mu rill 91c~ {l ~j f.dr Il}(jj,

M.II S Crlflil

~_Pi1

alack masc~';: Bring:'> lJlri .11(: "em.r)' ojd{JrJI' t.:fc:s

KEY COLORS

Lilac: \Vol'I;::5 wd! wirh Jw:§"[r::/

L"Yl:shado~~·5 ~

Dark rod and bu ~:ru ndy:

D,f'ep ..... 'lml' cslors aj LWlJ s l<1Ohgov/l

UPS

Mau w:;.y pill k: L(.lob go~}(' .~' !dl br[gll ( or p.tl.l:l d C)!t'.51I(jdDw.s

Dec P b u rgu n d)·: C rt'.cUe.o; ~ Wnntlj snbll~ cD~cl,.

--------OLIVE SKIN--------

DARK HAIR/OUVE SKIN Complement olive skin and dark brown eyes with warm, deep shades that look slrong but natural.

Darker mauves, pinks, and blues make an unusual alternative and add extra radiance.

liGHT BROWN HAIR/OLIVE SKIN The gold-flecked undertones of light olive coloring are brought to life with warm shades, such as terra-coua, peach, and soft browns.

Pearly lilacs and slate grays are colorful options,

EYESI1ADOWS

(J Pale and

burnt

o r.!nge.:

Complcrll{"lH dilCl, ejcs

EYELINER

Jel black: Gives (I S'ilOldCfing cIfcc~

MASCARA

_»'j1

Jet hlack: Tile hesr chotec [or a darl" ."h,), fed

Ocher:

To mau:ll rhe natlrral Idn roue

E"ESHADOWS

Sor, COCO" and pale gold: Creme a gClHk. "mumr I!lfl!U

EYELINER

Deep brown: BleJlriS weir whll m:wml shadows

MASCARA

Dark brown: Glyt'-s a gemkr'Du.J durJ, b'tJch

KEy COLORS

() ::t o o

Vl

52

Cl

() o rO ~ Vl

Beige-pink and electric blue: Add extra ra.liilTnc-c

Lips

~{:'1UVCy pink: For colorful dr./iPltli(.iII

oft beige: 1\/lCUfcriPig. gC:'I!/t!:s:iu1c1c

KEY COLORS

I'" I

Slme gr.l>, and po'''y liluc: ArJda

S"l:IISt:'OJ surprrse

Orangey red: A \!ibn"'1f sblltleJor Sirong ."Wac,

Soft red: Ali C(Jsy~la-w,tIH JWWr(j'dlflice

35

KEY COLORS

---------FAIR SKIN---------

RED HAIR/PALE SKIN

Pale redheads look good ill warm shades that help to enhance their natural creamy tones. But brighter colors can make an exciting contrast, ami blue and bronze look good with blue eyes

FAIR HAIR/PALE SKIN Cool-toned makeup, such as a mauvey brown lipsuck, is 3 dramatic option for lhis coloring, bur sofi, baby shades work well [or a decidedly pretty effect,

36

BASE

Ligln ocher: To

m(udl al(: ~

sJdn [OtiC

EVESHADOWS

EYELINER

uark smoky brown and medium brown: \Varm. nmuml s/wdrs

epia gold: Brings mil fhe golden UltIC,5 ill IHlir aJl(I sl:j"

Dnrk brown: Gh cs !a:sJH~'S warm srl'CllglJl Wf,JIDIJ! roo'!'mg Iwrsh

Sot, beige:

Mmdtf's

rhe 51:;n rOll(

EYESHflDO\vS

EYELINER

Shell pin k nnd dusky m:ILI\IC: Pn'll)' coj{lrs("lnllf"tI S()jl rIJol:

Charcoal: Dcfltl.:-s \\I11111')14r l,mklng Jlllr.sh

V\I\/VVV

Blade Dc.fln..:-s mill '.·ngrlll'i1s/mJIt's

Dark olive and light green; 5 [rOI1g. rejrt:sJliPlg CO'Ol'S

LIPS

Sof beige: Enh(lnccs g"rd~tHOIit'd Imu (md.slzill

U Ii ck red: ~VGrk.5 I,' cll \\ i dl greo) [yeslwdawlJ.

KEY COLORS

BLUSHER

\V!1t1'l'i. :'pr"iCO[: FOI I)vld (;illl"htJsis

Skj- blue "",I snpphlrc blue; Co"l, dnJmmic:

had£_~

FlJWn pink: Gives 'l ).OJf.

Jrc:sh i{loll

M:lll'VCy hrown- Por 5"1.rong impal"J

--------ASlAN SKIN--------

BETGE- TONED ASIAN SKIN

Warm 0101'5, such as apricot and terra-COlla. Ilauer this kind of coloring. Reflecuve metallic shades also work well and help lift ihe face, but they must be perfectly blended. Try \0 pick up On fashion colors, ioo.

PALE-TONED ASIAN SKIN

Neutral shades on the eye> and deep color on the lips nre the traditional choices for this coloring. Creme more modern impact wit h brighter, vtbraru colors, but limit them (0 the eyes or the mouth.

KEY COLORS

(i ;r

b o lJl

2

C)

(') o r o ;:::l lJl

Ivery:

Softens t.he .sldJI ronc

Copper and gold: Rrj1rtriv( p"oper'rfr' {}I~Cjl ill' r'u,'cyc ""cel

EYELINER

JCl b1::[II,;;I;;: EIIJJ.(1J1(C;5 WI(I ('llla.rg{s (J smtiH ')'C (H"c~r MASCARA

Jet black LCfI8.IIf~ns (tIlll defines In bcs as mudr «s l}ossible

BASE

(

Ivory:

Mmdl(srIlt' .~':irr !fmc

EVESI-IJ\I)OW

Li~lu and dark lilac: To \\Itar I"jrh (Jtlsld c::oron;:

EYEUNEH

Jet blaclc Emp'wsi::cs the sII01)C u/ ,he uPJJCr lid llml CP'['CHt'S tr sr('c/{cr line:

'!A$CARA

Je< block OeJi""" 11,< /",)"., iJ:lOJlwc.:hn"'I)Ossil)lt·

pink: A

S'ref!)' slla.tI, (0 'l\'Ctll' \\'il1ll''(I.s~d,:;:

37

Tnwny and apricot:

CompkmcJ'll bngc ~':m tom:

LIPS

Cream}' beige: Sof,ens rJu: :d:in rene

Deep viol 'l; AcM~ aU'J cmplltwl> ro ,jl~ "'(Jud.

KEy COLORS

/

('

Ugh! orange nnd brigbl )'cllll.J"": Fur

,~I"'J"I SU'-p"r5c

Streng fed: Creaft$ a hold fmpaa

Golden red: An j·(~~V~m·~~ ell •• jrllr[l'rijlg slll:'lIll'

/

"

/

v

THE MAKEUP PALETTE

I have always believed that choosing makeup should

be lots of fun, as well as something of an adventure. That

is why I developed a kaleidoscopic range of colors for

eyesha dows, lips ticks,

mascaras, nail polishes,

even powders and foundations. To whet your appetite, this

beautifully photographed photo album offers a tantalizing

taste of all the beauty-care products that you can now

choose from, as well as

the essential pieces of

equipment that you will need to apply each one properly.

ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT

YOU do not need to spend a lortune on your

.. equipment, but having the right tools really does make applying makeup much easier, Using the right sponge will help loundation smooth on more easily and evenly, [or example, while having a

THE BASICS

Tweezers ~--===~==

Orange sucks 1m' mat!iCI[t'oI!S

MAKEUP SPONGES

Usl "g the right 'pOllgC wi II hel] you avoid n streaky dTcCL when applylng Ioundauon and will 0150 allow you to gel. into the crr;::415CS

::J round the nose ancl eyes. l<~cp 'I)Ollg'" clean by washi nil ,"cSldn,,')'.

Sponge: fer Hquhl Icundarion: Gam} jor gcHitlg

I 1l W t1Tlr5!:_~

Soft sptlr1s.€ for .rrl'pJyillg,[(jlu:,

fOiltulmjojl lvjrlwr~r ' .... nrcr

40

collection of different-sized brushes will allow you to apply eye and lip colors more easily and blend them where necessary. Store your equipment neatly in a makeup box, or even a tool box, rather than leaving it lying around the bathroom.

Couon swabsjor "Cn'I0 villg ma~!e!jp

COl Lon balls: E~slm!i([j for _your dtlily shi.lcarc rc:gif~U!fI

Nu~urt'\l sponge

for' ~!{Jrl,Yljlg (~kC' !OIjndCirf(irl ~\Iirh W(IICI' loll giw,~ jlghiwdgJ"[fif!]:'i:fl

I-l" rd :sponge fo, "pplyi "8 coke

fo~u,d~ [10Jl ~\,j['1 wO!,t:'i"

EYESJ{ADOW BRUSHES

r\ selccuou of different-sized cyeshadow brushes is essential. Usc a large one for applying cyeshadow to the whole eye .'H'E::<.1 and for blending, a medium one for the lids, and a small one lor covering the

socket line nnd applying lughhghrer

Large cyesbadcw brush

Medium eyeshadow brushes

Smaller blusher brush lor marc emif,'oJ/cd bJemlillg

BLUSHER BRUSHES USC a soft, wide brush to prevent harsh lines and make blending eaSY,;il smaller brush for more controlled blending.

Powder

SOrt tip

jr.'Jj- blcnlljng

BROW BRUSH

This two-in-one tool is. [deal for bl'ushlng eyebrows hHO shape and combing out rna cam from lashes.

LASH SEPARATOR

Used alter mascara has been applied and allowed

LO dry, thls brush separates lashes and prevents dogging.

Spiral nylon wand 10 I"l:{iuc;r dogging

LfI. rge bl us he r b-us b

LIP BRUSH

,\ Iirrn-t i pped Ii p brush gives you greater control over applying color than a convenrional lipsuck and also allows you to build up • deeper shade.

Powder brush

4]

Powder pufr

•

POWDER ApPLICATORS

A soft pLlrr is rhe perfect way [0 apply loose r3CC powder. Brush orf tho excess with rt large dOITIC!:shaped brush,

42

MEDICATED

F OUN1)ATI ONS

For sensitive or problem skins. those foundaucns are designed to treat the skin as well as cover h. A Iorrnulauon for dry skin. for example. will contain moisrurtatng agcms. whil. one for very oily skin

wjlJ include stT'Ol1g nil- Medicated foundntlon

conll'oHing lngrcdtents. for dt)! skj"

Mcdlcmcd Ioundsutan fe.· oib ,kin

FOUNDATIONS

;\ foundation should make your skin look as .L\_ smooth and clear as possible, while also helping to even om the tone. It win then provide the perfect base for the rest of your makeup, Foundations come in a wide variety of colors and

types, and it is very important to choose [he right one for your coloring (see pages 32-33) and for the effect you want to achieve. For example, in summer you may want the lightest of coverings, while in winter yOll may prefer heavier protection.

COLOR CORRECTORS Applied before foundauon, color

COTTt::ClOrS even OUl specific sklnlone problems. Blue will make, reddi~h cam plcxion look brighter and whiter; while brighH~.I1.s dull skill ami helps cover dark undereye circles: green wm cool down redness: and purple will correct yellowish dullness and add a healthy glow.

LIQUID FOUNDATIONS

These are usually water-based and can be spread onto the skin easily using a sponge to give lightweight coverage. Always make Sure you choose the light one fer your skin t)'pc - "oilfree" is good lor oily skins, while "moisturizing" is better for drier and normal skin .s. Look for products that also provide protccuon against

the sun's UV rays.

whuc bri,gll!ens dldlsl,in

1J1uewhl[Lm:s: a n::ddrsJl comprO"ron

Yellow-based liqujd Iowl(1alloJlS suir h'o,)I-f)cige sIdPi roues wi r hOt!1 m Udl rc.cl

CAKE FOUNDATIONS

Pressed blocks of color, cake: foundations generally hay' a powder element to help control shine. Cake foundanons tan be applied with either a damp or dry spongecheck the instructions. This type of foundation is good [or all skin types and quick to apply. Look for product> rhat help moisturize and protect the skin as well.

c c ";; t ;l

...

C

";; [;

lOye Ieundarton for' d(Jd~ sJd ..

(yc r,n.lnd.atioii 10 'lair .,hl"

Ivory-toned car~t: /(}IUlaariQtts jol' !"nrc r,omr,rc-xiQPlS

EYE FOUNDATIONS

Used [0 help even out the skin cone around the eye and provtd

a good base for eyeshadows. The)' also help yeshadows last longer find prevent creasing.

FACE POWDERS

Powder will add the finishing touch to your foundation and help maintain a fresh, smooth look throughout the day. You can also use powder just on its own for a very natural effect But whether you are using a loose powder or a pressed

Tmnsfucemjor {lIt srrMk~ oj iC;lIrmlfHrOti

PRESSED fACE POWDERS AISQ available in H range or colors. pr sscd powders are easier !O carry around than kJoSL: powders and provide a convenlcru W3}' of lCHlching up your makeup ihroughout the dny.

44

Ught ",Ms" nlU Ii "1''lf glQI\"

/'

/

/

Pooch

powder, never put too much on, and be particularly careful around the eyes, where powder can easily settle into fine lines and so accentuate them.

For extra protection, choose a powder thai has

an added sunscreen or moisturizer.

LOOSE FACE POWDERS Available in a range of colors to suit all skin tones, as well 3:5 shades to correct dillcrcm complexions. loose face powder is used to "set" liquid foundation and corurcl shine.

60 igo JoO' y dim., sidJI U)rICS

Trnnsluccru

Pink

Gr'en

BLUSHERS

Once you know how to apply blusher properly to highlight and define your cheekbones (see Applying Blusher on pages 80-81), it will become an invaluable part of your makeup. Todays blushers contain ultra- fine powder panicles to give

the skin a natural finish and to prevent harsh lines. Powder blusher is the most popular form as it is the easiest to blend; apply it after foundation but before [ace powder. Be sure your blusher and lipstick are similar in tone.

e r C v ;t rr ~ v

BROW -TONED BLUSHERS These shades help create a mere dramatic, sophisticated style thai works bcuer lor evenings.

45

PINK-TONED BLUSHERS To lone with pink lipstick, these prr::uy shades give the complexion

<1 healthy, natural glow.

EYESHADOWS

Eyeshadow.s are available in a kaleidoscopic rarlge of colors. However, it is very easy to get stuck in a rut believing that because you have blue eyes you should only use blue eyeshadows. There are no hard and fast rules about which colors

Pc n rf y greens: GrlC'(U' ru -veru- ,'Vidr r~Ulpe, nQIlI1, [J,de 1JIUI::, gr'C~J'1 0" Ll'rrH~

Blues '1-\1 [IJI (J' pC;(ldy flnrsIl~ 1\ gomi cI'o;"jOJ'j<aM, ,QJr Mit.,; 0 r IJl aell DjHfr I s

46

should be used with eyes of different colors: try experimenting with new colors, but always use shadows that are within the same color group and complement one another. This will also help you blend and soften, the colors easily.

PEARLY SHADES

These are "sed for hlghIig)lllng the brow bone to open up the eye area Or for creating a shlmmerlng, frosted

"freeL (see the lee Mold." look on pages 10 +I I). If you r eyel ids arc particularly crepey, avoid shadows

thnt arc too pearly: they will eas i I}' beco m e V~ ry c teased.

Pearly pinks, reds and violets; US"t: r,o {l[(,~JlrUmt: ptljr [lin': dorll.e':§:"or 10 lifj IJjai!:~ «nd whlre T-sllins

Ydlo,,",s ,I[lel onliigcs wfdl' (1 pew'l)' jll'ljjh; Tct.rnl wit It ci ~ fUS cojQrs

PC"~ rl)' browns an d go Ids:

C OJl'tO r [I'£; WI r II p'lJ rpie or 1i!w: !'tJl's rc ,f'JI Jllm C(." ,ltd .. f!.ffN.!

I

I

Mane greens: Cool, s:op'tis~jc'lrl'cl slwdc_:-; IJlar rook h'oll(kljid worn with brad. or white

Matte blues and violel :

Ugllter hmle~ (H'e prC!t ) (md ,gtnrlc; dW'ilEI' QtleS'

dc:c::p caul HlOOOY

MATTE SHADES

G L ve a smoo rh, lla; if !Teet, Darker shades help "retreat" eyes, and lighter ones "advance" them. Try blending a dab of pearly eyeshadow 011 tOP of" matte shade as a way or experlmennng with more adventurous colors

(see page 34).

Pinks with a mane Finish:

C(ln 'n° l}{l.ssrorrmc1y Sjf(J-r!g. soJlly _,WCL"! (,It' dassi."II)' cil;'

MaliC oranges and yell{J~'IfS; Hm, brrghl shades work w,U wifh \libtfHU fashion colors

,\lanc browns: SOJI, PleLrm~1 col Of'S (tr't.· idoUlr lor cre'mir!g SCI.ll)tccl, wit1cr~ycd looJ.r.s

47

EYELINER & MASCARA

T ike eyeshadows, eyeliner and mascara help L define and enhance your eyes. Eyeliner accentuates the shape of your eyes, while mascara strengthens and darkens the lashes for greater emphasis They should be the same color, or just a

EYE PENCILS

These are. used [0 define the top and bOltOIH lash lines, and some can be used inside the houcrn inner rim or the eye, LOO_ When using on t he LOp lash line, soften with ~111 eyeshadow.

shade lighter or darker, and should mirror each other in shape For example, eyeliner that sweeps am at the corners looks best when mascara is swept diagonally through the lashes - see the Forties Glitz look on pages 20-21.

LIQUID EVELINER

Normally only used along the top lash ltne, thi creates a more intense color than other types of eyelinerHowever. il is also mere difficult LO apply and requires a steady hand.

~...., ~ • ~ ~ -=
-- ~
.~. ~~ ~~ ... _
, ~......._ ~- ~
~ """" .
'=--= ~~ -
-= .....--
~=, ~ =--
:"'~~~- "Fi- "- ~.,.....
~~ %-'- "'"
5- :_:.....
--- -: '~~ "'"
~ .. -~ =-~- ~ Vlbranr red

,

IklghL l)ILlC

MASCARA

A mascara should thicken ant] lengthen the lashes w:i thou: C':H.ls~ng them [0 clump together. Waterproof mascaras are more long lasting but can take longer 10 remove. Block and brown are the rradlrional favorues. while more colorful shades cal' Crc.rH12: <11 bright, dramatic cffcc).

Frush green

EYEBROW PENCILS

An eyebrow pencil helps give eyebrows: grf:'"a!er cleflnttlon. For a unturnl eITelC't, choose the shnde I hm matches )four hnir color.

or sllgluly darker tf blonde.

49

LIP COLORS

Strong reds for sophisticated glamour., barelythere pinks and beiges [or natural beauty, or vibrant oranges for sporty style. The color of your lips can change your appearance immediately. Try not to restrict yourself to wearing just one color all

the time. Instead, have several choices [Q suit the effect you want to achieve and for different-colored clothes. Look for lipsticks and lip colors that moisturize and protect your lips, too, and always make sure that they go with your blusher.

LIp PENCl.LS

Used LO outline the lips and prevent color from bleeding. Choose a shade that i not more than one: tone darker than your lip color.

THIC1(ER LIP PENCILS Tbtckcr lip pencils call be I.1SCCllQ .olor the lips as well as outline them. Some can be applied La rhc checks, AS a blusher, or mound the eyes. as a definer.

'NW

PEARLY Ltp COLORS V These shimmertng shades attract

anernion to the lips and can

V make 'hem appear fuller. Crear LO WCi:'1f wit h shiny [abrks. Apply with a lip brush.

MATTE A 'D SEMIMATT LIP COLORS

For 01 warm. naturnl effect. choose tI ItHU rc or sernl-maue lip color. These shades can also help lips look less "II.

SemiI11.H'C lipsticks

SHIMMER LrpSTICK5

Lipsticks can be either brushed on or applied in their stick form. For a hinv. more deliberate effect. try shimmering .had", like this pearly pink. vibrant purple, or warm chocolate.

MAn"E A 0 SEMI-MATTE LIPSTICKS

Mane 1 tpsrlcks create a warm r deep effect ihm suits evening makeup. while scmi-maue shades give a sort look ihm is good for daytime wear. Colors range [rom classic red It, rich mahogany.

Mnne Hpsncks

NAIL POLISHES

Polished nails make the perfect addition to well-eared-for hands, and these days there is a color to suit every mooel and every occasion (see EFfects [or Nails on pages 102 -} 03). Increase the impact of your polish by choosing a color that

matches or complements [he rest of your makeup. or matches your clothes. Toenails, too, can look fabulous painted with a bright, dramatic color, and not only in summertime. Always remove polish on both hands and feet as soon as i.t begins to chip.

THE BASICS

For nail polish that lasts wen, use a base: coat before npJJlying color and linish off \VOi ih a lOp coat. A lways take orr old polish wuh an nCOIOIlCfree remover. whkh will not strip vital olls from your nails.

Base coat

52

Top coat

N,dl polish remover

PASTELS

\ From pale peach to delicate

blue, pastels create a pre:uy look that is suitable Ior dtty or evening.

AT RAL BROWNS of 1 , un btrusive color are the perfect choice ror. nruurnl dayilme effect.

2 >

-

r-

PLNKS AND VIOLETS From ligh. ro bright, pink arc always a firm Favorite for nails, while- violets will give a deeper. more: dramatic effect.

BLUE To ES Those look grea[ wuh jeans. Try lighl shades roc day and stronger tones ror cvenlug,

BRIGHT PARTY COLORS

Glillcring gold for t'\lC'llilg gltlt.ltour

Ylbmnt green, siz.:ding orange. shocking red, nnd Ficry Fuchsia - P"rI)' colors should be brighl. bold. "",I full of surprises.

Sp.orkHr'lg stlver Jor parlY/lill

5:

SKIN & BODY PREPARATIONS

MOIST rUZERS

1\ molst urtaer's mostbnslc job IS 10 pre erve nuid iii the skin's upper layers so Ih"1 il 1001<5 fresh and well hydrated. whether moisturizers can delay the onset or wrinkles is the sub] 'CI or d 'bate, but they do help skin to look good. usc n 11glu rncisturizer during ihc day (which will 1101 disturb your makeup) and

~ richer cream at niglu when skin can absorb most molsrurc, I r yOI,.Lf skin reels th-y, treat il LLl an even richer hycll'lllitlg cream,

Young skin is naturally firm, plump, and resilient, but to keep it that way you need to begin a good skin-care regimen as early as possible. Used regularly as a three-step program, cleansers, Loners, and moisturizers work together to keep the skin

CLEANSERS

Cleansers should remove deepdown din and makeup without dislUrbil1g the skin's balance or stripping away natural oils. Your choice or cleanser will be: determined by YOW" skin type (sec pagos 28-29).

TONERS

A toner helps remove any residual tnt cs or cleanser, which could ause lrritatlon, and also helps to make the skin more

receptive to moisturizer. Arter being toned, I he skin should red fi I'm and refreshed but never dry and 131'1. Look for" lcchol-lrce toners with soolhing ingredients, and always lise the right toner lor )'OUI' skin type,

54

1\ senile cleanser for .sc1]$iriw Wid J'II')rnwl :I;)lrJ'1 tJltH df,"ll'I1SC5i and condirions "~rlt!ujrmlCQltSry

A gentle ~lSL r lTlgerH toner suitS Oily w normal 51:in fypes

A l1g11l gclmotsrurucr j,5 goml Jr"'Ir (l~lJ!jmc Itsr tlnd sulrs rlUs!tjn rypr.s

smooth and clear. Really clean skin provides a much better base for makeup, too. The skin on your body also needs frequent attention, and there are now body shampoos, gels, lotions, and scrubs to help you pamper yourself on a daily basis

1\ clay-based cleanser JrJr oily (lfld (oJ1"toimuIGI'Jl s,:jPl dUll (.kcp-d«rJ1sc.s pon~5 [UI d 50/! ens dctd .'i'k r JI cd js

A mild herbal toner suits noruml and (f.lml1irrflriurlsllijl lYIJ(;.S

A rl ell n011 fish L I' g CTCOI m rhm wrlj IltJ! b'O.(I~ the Iwres I:Sbc:,;! aJ'pl i ~,tI m J I j~jj r

An irl"igOl'aLing face scrub 01"" 1°"81" aJJdwn «lis /0 !Ct!'IC' dtinJp'£sjj amI dean

...\ rrllgnlnCC~rrcc, alcoholfree toner suits 'hose wirJt sc,nsr,.,lc .or dry S/'I~l

r\ speclnlly ronnLLILI.[I:~d moisrurtaer hl [ntH :'iit:1't:!iihivl' 01' ""II-looking ,Id"

BODY CLEANSERS

A warm bath is one or the best places 1O relax and pamper yourself. Purify the skin with n bod)' shampoo or hod)' scrub. or soak up the soothing properties of" bath oil.

BAHI CRYSTAL

Make a warm bath even IHOI'C soothing by adding some fragram bath crystals with natural ingredients such as sea-water

III lnerals and seaweed ex tracts.

BODY M01STURIZ.ERS

After bnLhing or showering, mns.sage.n non-olly tnnisturt rer

ali over )'OUI' body and follow, if deslred, with (,I refreshing louon, but alwOJ}JS USC;[] specially formulated Cream 10 keep hands sofl and supple. 1'0 combat cellulite, II")' a spe tal rrcauneru oil or body balm wlth natural plant extracts.

SPECIAL TREATMENTS

In the summer, you may want more protection than art ordinary sun cream can give. A waterproof fa c block wi II provide complete prot .ction agflinsllhc sun's harmful ultraviolet r-ays. and can also be usee! as: :1 moi:H1Hlzing

mak up base. As 3 spcctnl addition 10 yOul' normal c-lcrmsll"Jg, ionl ng. and moislurizlng pl'Ogmrn, try A. deep-cleansing day race. pack LO I'CI'''O\Ii?: deep-down din and a hot, n I'm i I1g ma.5sage gel LO 1'" d uc c

puff 11055 and bring" Ileal ihy glow_

A dccp-clennstng body shampnu tJuu CL'11'1 be t'tlsily tPllrss(,jgcd 'PlIO file s'd ..

Hose bllllil crystals cm.: gcm lc (mel td,~xing

A lightweight. all-over molsturtaer will kave s-Irfll SlllOlHh twa SIl[JJJrc

An extra-Fine g,mincd bod)' scrub fa It':!l) .ttnl.:;J! oJJ dead ,II;n ",II.

Sea bath crystals fed Fe>', alld bl'<ldn~

1\ refreshing bodv lcttou ro 11(;11'1 fl"m tJruJ lOll&"

i.\ wmcrproof sunblock P"OICl'IS ag'jrjl~r .llt S'lrtl'S 'rm1Iif~d Iflr"'(Wr~}rcr trlJ'S

,\ gentle clay lace pod ru hdr' "t!1110VC dccp~dllwn (!IIi wuj ImJjwmll~

,t\ relaxing bruh oil dla! lcevcs ~Ilill Jrding ,0Jt ,,,,,I sI'ppk

Mint bath crystals aFt soft an(J .\()()(Iling

I' pcnerrnrlng body balm ro IH:tp r.omlJtJI cdruirlr

55

1\ beut-prcrnotlng gel

dtm C:Wl l't:' Ui'(a,msni ;11(0 dre' Jaa; oI'llld JJmly fa ft"{jjJCt I}Uffi .. e ss

SKIN-CARE REGIMENS

Normal, dry, sensitive, oily, or combination - all skin types

need to follow a regular three-stage daily program of

cleansing, toning, and moisturizing to keep skin clean,

healthy, and in the best

condition But there is

no need to stop there. Make the most of the range of special

treatments, such as deep-cleansing face masks and gentle

scrubs, and take time to enjoy the luxury of a firming facial

massage. Here, visual

sequences show how to

develop the most effective routine for your skin type.

58

CLEANSING

--- CHOOSING A CLEANSER ---

Cleansing is the first part of your three-stage skin-care regimen and should be done in the morning and again at [light to remove both daily grime and deep-down din in the pores. Cleansers are also an essential [actor in the battle against wrinkles; they help to make skin more receptive to moisturizers and ami-aging treatments. Don't forget to cleanse your neck as well - the skin here needs just as much auenrion as your face and it is of len the first area to show signs of aging.

Nonnal shin

Creamy liquid or cream clwn;eF5; wGrer-501uble dearl5ers 01" gem!e J""al saap.

Dry 51li"

Cre"", deanser> 0" very rich liquid dooflsers; moismriZing. P10PlpeifuPIlcd soap. bur nnse oJ[ Ihoroug!,ly.

COUibinafion a.' oily shi"

Liglu 10liol1s DO' milk deanse' ; mcdiCllUd liqliid deans rs afti SOnlcLirnes necessary to trfat SfVere cutbre'lflS_

Sens-il.ive sl:in

1 Keep your hair ofT your face as much as possible: tie it back 01' wrap a towel around yo,,, head, Mttke sure that you,: neck is not covered Llp wi I h c loth: nganother reason to cleanse [irst lhing in lhc morning and last lhing at night. To remove eye and lip makeup, see pages 62-63.

2 <J Choose a cleanser to sun your kin (see above) and, with your fingertips, massage it all over YOllr face and neck,

using small circular movernerus lO work OUl din and other i mpuri lies [rom

the skin. Pay parucu lar auemlon lO the T -zone (across the forehead and down the nose 10 ihe chin) and the hairline, the area where mOSI din builds up.

A lways work gern 1 y using a soft, light touch rather than a rough abrasive action, which may cau e the skin to become red and sore, ;iUH.:1 can cause long-term damage.

Mllssage cle(,"sc" -+

gently into sflin usiug SHlL':tll circular jtl(J\I'(~tll'Jtr ....

3 If you are using a water-soluble cleanser, rinse your face and neck wuh water; ideally it should be lukewarm. Warm water helps remove the shine Irom oily skin, but mny irritate dry, sensitive skin; hot water can encourage broken veins.

4 If you arc using 31: oil-soluble cleanser, gently ussue off dirt and gnme from the face and neck without. dragging or pulling the skin. Change the tissue as soon a it becomes overloaded with din: orherwise, you will be working th is back into the open pores.

5 Make sure that the cleanser h<15 bee" thorough I y removed; if any residue is lef; behind, it will continue working and dry Out the skin. Gently pat the face and neck dry usinga clean towel.

59

B~Jore buyillg a deanser, toner, or moisturizer, (cst the product. To do lilis, rub a liUle bd'illd YOl.r car and el,a!. that there is no reaction after 2'1 hOLl,'S.1j you are dlDosing produmJrom different ma!ters, lelilogel!,er in the same way.

-_ THE ALLERGY TEST--

TONING

Toners, or [r~sheners, are the second stage in a dally cleansing program. They are designed

to remove any last traces of cleanser, while also helping to tighten and refine the pores and prevent a buildup of dead cells. After toning, your skin should reel revitalized and refreshed, and ready to be moisturized. If you think yom skin is looking particularly dull, try patting the toner on with a brisk slapping motion, which will stimulate the blood. supply to the surface 01· the skin.

---- CHOOSING A To ER ----

Nonnal .",j"

Toners wit!, or w"haUI oleohol: rmcwaler or a s!ill milleml \Vater spray.

DrY'/li"

Mild alcahol-frec toners: fOSfwCHer or wmer.

Combinclt.ion G,·oily sflin

tllcohol-Ilased !O"crs (but avoid lhose I\;Lh simplr alcohols, SLId, <1$ cLharwl, melh(llIal, a.rld "opropyl, wl,iel, em] doy the ,I",,).

li)'poal/ergcPll( or (liwhol-free IOn,,-,;.

Setlsiriv€ s/dn

1 <I Choose a Loner LO suit your skill (see above), Pour" lillie oruo a damp couon ball - this makes the toner easier \0 apply and ,11 ° means you use Ie

of it. Stroke the ccuon ball gently over your face and neck using small circular movements; do not drag or pull the skin. Concentrate On the T-zone and hairline.

the areas where }'Ou applied 1110 I cleanser. arid avoid the delicate eye area and the lips.

26 Gen II)' pat your face nnd neck dry with a dean lis ue. If you nonce that a toner Is beginning lO .. trip away' }'OUr kin, tone with water un I i I the skin becomes rebalanced and then change the product. This often happens with loners that have a vcry high alcohol corucru; always check the list of ingredicnls on the boule or ask for more I n formation before buying.

~ __ ,_ __ 5''''01:, remer gcrHly ave r dH: joce wul ned. \"ilhour dragging dlt' sllfil

MOISTURIZING

--- CHOOSING A MOfSTUR1ZER --_

Moisturizers are the final stage in a cleansing program and help restore the moisture loss caused by the drying effects of sunlight, central heating, wind, cold, and pollution, A good daytime moisturizer should contain a sunscreen and wilt be easily absorbed into the skin, If it leaves an oily film on the surface, it will be difficult to apply makeup on top, At night, you can use a richer, more nourishing cream since this is when your skin mOSL readily absorbs moisture,

Normnl sJdn

Light creams or tOUOllS, wi III un (Jdcled sunscreen.

Very ligl1l, "oil-oj Iy JOnl,ul<l5, wjlit all ",Med sunscreen: sl,o,rld olso i.1c nOllco",e<iogmic (lI'ill "01 blad, pores),

CmnbirlflliOJl or oily ,/,ill

SeHsilive sldn

l-lYfJoalfcrgcllic (reams. \1.tirh lUlluldcc/ unscreen,

All shill ryl'Cs sJwuld use n dciler, lIIore PloHri5i, iJlg Janmda dWll dH~i" dl1ylime mOisturizer.

NIGIfI' TRfAnr£I'''T

1 Choose a moisturizer to suit your skin (see above, right>, Place Iivc small dots or moisturizer on your face and nee k (one 0 n each check, one 011 the forehead, one On the ell ill, and one on ihe neck), Using your fingertips, eli tribute the moisturizer evenly allover the face and neck. Always be carefu I not 10 usc 100 much IllOISl u rizer >the skin can absorb only a certain amount alone lime.

3 'Vail at least five minutes before applying makeup to give the moisturizer lime to be absorbed by the

skin, If yOll put rna keup 0 n roo soon after moisrurtalng, il will begin to "glide" off your face.

rJm ltWlst.ur-izer· over dli; -4~~--';"fw:.r. rmrl lIt!'cIt to Iudp yOt! d.Sj r"mr.r:: JI rmuc evell ry

2 t> Stroke the 11l0iSllL rizcr gently lmo the skin using light circular 11l0VC111 I1l . Avoid the eye area, which needs 10 be treated

special I)' (see page 62).

62

REMOVING EYE MAKEUP

The more eye makeup you wear, themore important it is to use a specially formulated cleanser for the delicate eye area. This makes it much easier to remove even the most stubborn o( waterproof or tearproof mascaras without pulling or dragging the sensitive skin around the eyes

If you do not remove all traces of eye makeup whenever you wear it, pores will become blocked, which may lead to pimples. Always use a clean cotton ball, tissue, or cotton swab [or each eye.

ITo remove makeup from the lids and brows. use the Lip or your third finger to stroke in remover geruly using small circular movements, Ahernauvely, use a couon swab soaked in makeu p remover.

3 To remove rna cara, dab a little remover on to a iissuc and wrap around yOllr index ri.l1ger. Brush the

tissue ih rough the lashes lrom underneath.

---- CARiNG FOR EYES ----

• Tim. largels tit, sl"" ar-mllle! Ihe "yes Ji)'st, so il is impOl"lalll 10 ""vitalize I Ills " rea by t,siug au eye ['-ea'" "'O'"illg aile! "igill.

bmw bone. 5rrohe (hl" (ream in gen Ily 115 i PIg yo" r !I, i rd, or rillg, finger. iJ )'0" use ymll" illdcx jillger, yOIl Me more lillely to 'Uelcit or dmg tile s',ill.

• Usc eye crenms S1'(lfillgly: too mud. can cause prifJiur!Ss. To rt1'ply, place Iltree Dr JOllr dots Ildow tile eye and IwO On lite

• Looll Jor ul!m.ligllt "Yc creams wi ii, a low oil CGlltell! as tllese peuetmte tile sid" more easily.

2 Gently wipe off the remover from the lids and brows wuh a cotton pad, working from the inner corner 10 the outer corner of the ~)'c. Again, do not rub or drag the skin.

4 For the comer or the eye and the lower lash line, use a cotton swab dipped in remover. Afterward, ltghily pm the whole eye area dry with a tissue.

REMOVIN G LIPSTICK

;\ lways make sure that you remove lipstick n thoroughly to prevent the skin on your lips [rom becoming dry and rough. Lips need to be regularly moisturized, too they are particularly susceptible to the drying effects of the sun and the wind because they do not have any sebaceous, or oil-producing, glands of their own. If Lips are moisturized properly, it is much easier to apply lipstick smoothly and evenly (see pages 96-97), and it will also stay on much better.

---- CARlNG FOR LIps ----

spcnd (j lot oj rime OllldOD'>, elroose lipsi iells with a sunscreeu,

• Usc lip I!IDiSltllizers or IiI' btllms !11(11 conlaf'l Vitamin E) w!tiel! is I),ouglll 10 lI1akc lips [ee! "xtra soJ! and slIIoollo.

• CambeU II re appearmlCe oj Jille w";Hhles atound llu~ moudl wilh 11,15 shlll"eJacial exercise. Open YOtu' mo.utll as wide (IS you CQn alld resist slightly (IS YOll close ir. Ikpml 10 runes.

• Always usc a lIIoislllI'iZillg lipsllell 10 "",'>'f"l lip' jrom d'ying out dlll'illg Ihe <1<,>, and I)ecoming ciJal'pcd. IJ yo"

1 Pour a liule makeup remover onto a damp cotton ball or tissue and gently wipe in

all inward direction, working [rom each corner to the

middle of you r lips. Lightly pal dry with [1 tissue.

2Artcr r cmovtng lipstick, usc a specially Iormulatcd lip moisturizer or lip balm. Do 1101 usc anything tOO greasy - that would probably make ,'Oll lick your lips, which has a drying effect.

-EXFOLIATING LIPS-

co r j 1)11 ncro.!ls rl,e 11'''j,,'''' dIe OnICI";Ii to lhe mid-pDIPlI

Once a WCell, exfoliare lips by gently bn"I'illg off dcad sllin will, (151))(111. finc bnrsh or (I soft tooilrbn,sh.

This .. ill stimulate cellrumovcr (lmi I,cer lips looilill,g smoorh, soft, and h~alliry. For WI eXlm-lHoislilrizing effect. put II !iIIit' 1110islUlt::er or lip balm on the htlsl,.

63

FACE PACKS

Face packs gently remove cells on the skin's surface and purify clogged pores to leave dull skin feeling fresh and firm, They also stimulate blood circulation to give the face a healthy glow and help skin to absorb moisture afterward, Many face packs use natural clay compounds to deep cleanse and remove impurities from the pores. These are perfect [or combination and oily skin types, while drier skins should use face packs

that are designed to rehydrate or reactivate.

---- CLEANSING TIPS ----

• Wh,," you are waitingfor the pC/ck to dry, rest amI rfilo: (IS n\l, d, (IS ym. fa OJ e,ee page 108 Jm' '0"'" c(lsy·to1ollolV ,-ei(Lxalian ledllliques).

• Try 10 """ face pad, abo,", Oilcr a wcd~j l.nu never roo jP"eq,oclIi Iy orlhe sl,;" will become dry m,d flally.

• If youJilld il diffiCUI[ to apply Q face pael' eveul)' "siuS )'0" r ji"genips, try bms),illg il 011 will, "u old m"I,cup &"'511.

• If possible, wa;! 24 100''', before applYlliS makeup "ftcr )'0" lu,ve ",sed a face paci,.

COMBlNATION SKIN

1 c- Cleanse and dry

the lace thoroughly (see pages 58-59); you should neve" use face packs on iop of makeup as this reduces their cleansing acrion. Using the

fingertips, spread the pack even 1)' onto the oily areas of the

face only, su h

as the nOS"

and forehead,

2 Wail Iive

to len minutes lor the pack to dry, I he 11 rinse off thoroughly with lukewarm water. Massage gently wuh the fingertips while "i"sing to stimulate blood circularion.

___ --;- -;-_-1-_ For 'QmbIil(~'ion

,'lin, ~pply 1/," PO," ,mOO tilly ",uj "".Jllj to Ih" oily ."as oj [Ire [ac« 0111>

3 rat the Ince dry with a clean towel and moisurrize well (see I,age 61).

64

OILY SKl

1 Cleanse and dry the [lice thoroughly. Apply the pack venly using the fingertips to cover the entire face, but avoid the delicate areas around the eyes and lips, If you are using a rehydrating face pack, follow the same procedure,

2 <J'Wait five to len minutes for tile pack to dry completely then rinse off thorough I)' with lukewarm water. Massage gently with the fingertips while rin5ing to help remove dull surface cells and to stimulate blood circularlon further.

3 Pal the face dry wuh a clean towel and motsumze well (see page 51),

- BLEMISH TREATMENT-

Face pilelis tend ro d"aw QUI blemishes. O,le oj (he bcsl WtlJs 10 treal 1I1em is with II soft-lipped cleansing slid! Lhal can be applied rlirwlJ to (hI' problem area. This will remove excess oil I hile also drying aliI tile bkmish,

65

EXFOLIATION

Exfoliation sloughs 0[[ dry, dead surface cells to help the skin work more efficiently and look fresher and younger It also makes skin more receptive to moisturizer and can help keep blemishes at bay. Exfoliate one to three limes a week, depending on your skin type - oilier skins should be exfoliated more often, while those with normal. and dry skin will find that once a week is sufficient - and preferably at night. Whether a cream or gel, exloliarors should not be abrasive.

1 Cleanse the face (see pages 58-59) and spread exfoliaior evenly over it, avoiding the eyes and lips. Let exloliator dry if nccessary,

21> Rub exloliator in gent.ly wuh the fingertips, focusing on any areas of acne. Do not rub roo vigorously - if dry patches begin 10 <1ppear 0" yo 11 I' skin feels very sensitive. YOLl are probably cxfollaung roo

hard or' 100 often.

Usc tlrel'ml, of ------,'''froc--#-c_+----11 )I()ur jillgc"UJJS (0 mClSS('Sl" iJl cxJoii(llm'

66

----- CLEANSING TIPS ----

• Neye.- nob 100 It(ml; Il.iS 1101 0111)' causes !I,c sili" 10 become sore, but ccn w II)' sl-i "''' 1m es I I, e Q i I gl an ds to sec ,'el e mo re s.blll)] Ilw" before.

"pper chce/. area. If I iii! happens. 5101' ex!olia'i"!: !III! il Ihe shin hm recovered com I,lel ely,

• If YOil hClve tornbinafion sl~[/i, "Y exJolia!illg oily aWL', .,,,d, ns Ihe T-zonc, rwo 10 dlrcC ,imes a wed., and limit),olln;clf 10 a weehly

,.real mem. 011 d1)!, ens-i,t i ve areas_

• Tire first sign oj excessive ,,-,jolimi"8 is (I red "nd "Slril'ped" look On ,I1e delic(I!e shin Qn die

3 Rinse )'our race thoroughly with lukewarm water LO remove all traces or exfol iator Tone and moisturize (see pages 60-(1), then wait for" [ew hOlUS before applying any makeup,

Kcq. cxJolialor U\\'ay from cyo:

STEAM TOWEL TREATMENT

HOt water is all you need to create your own horne sauna. This simple but thorough steaming treatment will help open the pores, loosen blackheads, and draw out pimples, and it will remove deep-down dirt and toxins to leave skin completely clean. It is suitable for all skin types and should be used about once a week as a supplement to your normal cleansing program, although those with very oily skin could use steaming more frequently.

IFill a clean bowl three-quarters full with botling water, Add a few drops of rosewater: it

is good for moisturizing the skin.

21> Posirio n your face about 12-18in (JO-'f5cm)

away from the hot

water and cover

your head and the bowl with a dry towel.

CLEANSING TIps ----

• N;;ver pHI your face. 100 FleurIl'e baili.ng \Vmo~ !I,i, could cml.lc swldillg a"d iellt/ w iHolum vejn,.

• Once you IlOvcjlni$hed the slcamrng IreOlP:tIf'm, do 11m go (WldoorsJor l'lboHl. one hour.

• Try <lddi"g a tablespoon of fresh !lerbs 10 /J'e '"mer illSread of ,.osewQ{er!or a more invjgOJ'nlir'lg eJJe'l - )"vc",jcr, I·)'Y"'<:, ""d msemm)' afe all good dwices.

• If yo" "'T wnpled 10 5{)"eezc blemishes, do so afler slcmni"g hur J)eforc lOJlil'tg and Pt1ois(uJizrrlg. Use a (jewl

coli on ball 10 remove each aile.

3 Remain in this posuion for about ten mlnutes. making sure thru the towel still forms alent around ,he bowl so that nOI

too much steam escapes.

4Tone and moisturize the face (sec pages 60-61)

and firming specific points. While massaging, apply a Little of your normal face moisturizer or

a hot facial massage gel. For maximum benefit, repeat each step about three times and use the middle finger to work on each acupressure paint, applying pressure for three seconds at a time and repeating three times. Remember that the skin on the face is more delicate than the rest of your body, so you need to work gently and never use too much pressure or pull the muscles.

FIRMING FACIAL MASSAGE

Massage has been used throughout the centuries as a way of beautifying and treating the face and body Although a facial mas age will not remove any wrinkles that may already have developed, it can help prevent new lines appearing and make skin look smoother, firmer. and younger. This treatment uses a combination of massage and acupressure techniques to stimulate the (low 0[" blood to the lace and encourage the lymph system to drain away any excess Quid, as well as soothing

~-----FOREHEAD &: TEMPLES ~~--~-

1 c- Character Ii ncs are most likely to appear on you r forehead. Apply

a lillie rnoisiu riz.er or gel to your fi oge rs. Place your middle and third Ilnger between your eyebrows and glide them upwar I and outward as if smoothing away lines and wrinkles.

Glide Ihe middle mitt I hird jingtrs U!' ever the jOP'c;jJc(ul

2 Apply genlle pressure to the temples. This has" seething. relaxing cffcc; and can help relieve tension headaches. It can also make the eyes look less tired.

-------EyES &1 NOSE-------

ITo combat the fine lines that easily

form around the delicate eye area, circle the third r;"gcrs out around the eyes, siarung at the inner point of the eyebrows and using a. gemle gliding action.

2 A pply pressure 10 the aCUpl'CSSLIrC

poi 1115 shown ala ng the eyebrows, all he Outer come" of the eyes and on the til idd I. point below the eyes, This stimulates blood and lymph flow,

3 Glide your middle finger up along the nose line, Then massage the sides of (he nose with ihe middle ringers in a circul ar motion 10 prevent the appearance of fine lines,

4 Apply pressure 10 the acuprcssu rc poirus just outside (he nostrils, This can help clear a blocked nose and prevent [inc lines [rom appearing around (he no e.

69

-------CHEEKS &: MOUTH-------

1 <J Using the middle and third fingers, massage outward in a spiral motion [rom the chin to below the earlobes, from the comers of the mouth to the ears and [rom the sides of the nose to [he temples.

4 6. Apply pressu re to the acupressure poi n LS at the side of the mouth, above the center of the top lip, the dimple just below the lower lip. and on the center of the chin. This helps prevent character lines from forming around the mouth.

2 6. A PI' Iy pressure to the acupressure points just below the ears. This stimulatcsblood and lymph nnw to

the lower jaw area.

3 <J Stll.' Fling from the center of the chin, use the middle finger to massage around the mouth, working upward to smooth OUt character lines and wrinkles.

70

--------CHIN &: NECK--------

1 <J Starti «s at the edge of the jawbone, use the thumb and forefinger to pinch the skin gently all the way along the jawline lO firm lip loose Ilcsh. Work toward the center of the chin and back again.

2 6. Glide one palm along the jawline from riglu ro left. then Ihe other palm from lefl 10 right. Th is helps improve LOne and reduce sagging along the jawline.

3 <J Place,yot" hands at the top of your neck and glide both palms down the neck. This helps stimulate the lymph system into actlon.

4 6. Apply pressure to the acupressure points shown along the hairline, working from outside the car 10 the middle of the neck. This helps reduce tension at the back of the head and neck.

5 r~.1 lighrly allover the r"CC for)O seconds ustng your middle three

fins r , Rinse off any traces of mot turtzer or massage gcl with warm water. Pal the face with cold water 10 lighLen pores.

71

STEP-By-STEP MAKEUP LESSONS

Applying makeup properly will help you achieve a

smooth, professional finish that will last as long as you want

it to. Whether you are using eyeshadow or eyeliner, false

eyelashes or foundation,

lip color or lip liner,

there are certain ground rules to follow. The step-by-step

photographic makeup lessons on these pages show exactly

what you need to do, which equipment to use, and the best

way to achieve specific

effects for eyes, lips,

and nails, as well as how to use color to create different looks.

USING CAKE FOUNDATION

74

3 [> Using !;cntlc, even srro ices, coyer the larger areas or yOll r race [i rst (the cheeks, r a rchead, and T -zone), 1'0 lIowi ng their natural contours.

Cake foundations give a smooth, matte finish that prevents skin from looking shiny and oily Some can be applied using a dry sponge instead of a damp one and many now contain powder particles, with the result that you only need to apply a face powder on top i [you ha ve very oily skin. 1 t takes practice to learn how much foundation to use;

t] you have put lOO much on, sweep the sponge over the face again but do not reload it.

s: »

~

c:::: "0

r rn Vl Vl

o Z

V>

1 Keep your hair 0 fr your face by tyi ng il bae I, 0'- using

a hair band 0 I" scarf.

Cleanse and moisturize you r face ami neck

(see pages 58-61)_

W"i t at least five

m mines for the moisuuizer [0

be thoroughly absorbed i 1110

the skin.

2 Sweep Ihe spa I1gc smoothly across the [oundaucn. If you are using a cake [cundauon that needs to be app lied with water, dampen" sponge and

sq uceze OUl the excess, water The more water YOt1 leave in

the sponge, the lighter the effeci of the loundauon will be; the drier I he sponge, the hcav icr the effect will be.

------- PALETTE -------

Onl,]! EQlfrl'~.E""''T Hair band or scarf Cleanser Molsrurlzer Concealer

Sponge

Cake: Fcuoclatlon

..,...."""!''--- __ 5wet~l) lj'lC SlmngF;' m: mss rh f~ I f1fgCT ,,,,.,,, oj ,iJ c J~« fl r~u, u5i il,g ,gElIlk, ['veil S [1(}1,~s

4 Blend well under the jawline and down

on to the neck to create

a natural effect arid avoid a demarcation line.

Finally. check 10 make sure the face is smoothly and evenly covered. Use a concealer on an)' blemishes that still show thrcugh

(see page 77).

TH t; FINISH EI) HFECT: Barelythere rnauc coverage creates a natural cffecr and prevents skin from looking shiny.

c V>

Z C)

n ~

8

-n o C 2 U >--l

5

z

7S

USING LIQUID FOUNDATION

T iquid foundation produces a more lightweight Lfinish than the cake variety and tends to be easier to USe on dry skin. However, some people find it harder to apply; the trick is not to overload the sponge, which creates a streaky, unnatural effect that will be difficult to correct To finish, always brush over with a translucent powder. The powder helps the foundation slay in place longer.

1 Keep your hai r 0 IT your face by ryi . .ng h back or using a hair band Or

scarf. Cleanse your race and neck thoroughly and moisturize

(see pages 58-6l) Wait at least five minutes lor the molstu rizer 10 be tho rough] y absorbed into the skin.

2[> Pour a lillie Ioundauon 1115,dc the lid 0 f the boule ami dab with a spo·nge. Using gentle stroke, covel' the larger areas of your face 111'51 (the checks, [orehcad, and Tvzonc), following their natural coruours. Blend well under

the jaw] inc and oruo I he neck,

76 as well as around the hairline.

Trnnsluccru powder

Concealer and brush Powder brush

liquid foundation

pong.

3 Check unevenness around lhe eyes and the sides of the nose. Lightl)· pat with the sponge any areas thar need a liule more Ioundatlon. but do n t cover the whole face - that would give a thick unnatu ral effect.

4 If an)' marks Or blemishes still show through, cover them tIP by brushing On a concealer, blending it well into

the surrounding Ioundailon.

5Brush on a translucent powder, again following I he contours of the [ace. For n. more matte effect, apply powder u ing

a soft puff and then brush over.

c VI

Z

CJ

r

.0 S U 'T1 o C Z U

~

o z

Tur; FINI51-IED Erl'ECT: The coverage is smooth and even, wh ile an)' blemishes have been thoroughly concealed; eyebrows have been sorlly lined [0 stand

Out again i rhe [oundarlcn. 77

COLOR CORRECTING

They may look like the last thing that you would _ want to put on your face, but liquid color correctors can hide a multitude of sins. They work by using opposing colors to counteract specific flaws in your complexion For example, green

will tone down redness; blue will make a flushed complexion look paler; white will help cover up dark undereye circles and improve dullness;

and purple will give a yellowish complexion a healthier glow. Worn underneath foundation, they provide a good base for the rest of your makeup and help it stay lresh longer.

OTi'IER EQUIEJ.\fEJ ....... T !-1.Li[' batlcl Or scnrf Cleanser Motsnmzer

Liquid Fcundatlon

Sponge fOT applytng (;010 r CO,t-reCtO r

Sponge for "pplring liquid Icundatlnn

1 Choose the best color corrector for your complexion; green. is "sed here !O help counteract redness. and broken veins. Keep yom hair orr yet,.r face by lying it back or using a hair band Or scarf, and cleanse and moisturue the lace and neck (see pages 58---61). Wail about five minutes for the moisturizer to be abso rbed.

2 <I Pour a lillie color corrector onto

a cosmetic sponge and spread a Iilrn of it either ~II over t he face, Or JUSt OnLO specific problem areas such as the checks. Check that the co"erage ls even and reapply the corrector whe re necessary.

3 Apply I lqutd foundation as normal (see pages 76-77), making sure that the gTeel1 does not show through.

Fluslled culm· wid -'-,;- _

Ino kctl ~'cf liS ha vc been corrccled w·ld tOHcc(~jed

TI-IE FINISIIED EFF·~CT:

Green color corrector has counterbalanced a reddish complexion, LO give ,1 hint of healthy freshness.

n o r o :;::l

n o :;::l :;0 t'l1 n

:j

z Cl

----CONCEALING UNDEREYE CIRCLES----

POLIr a liule white color correctoriruo one hand and dab some onto your third finger. Smooth fingertip Over the dark circle under ih - ey', making sure Ih overage is even.

TI-IE FINISI-IED EFFECT: Liquid [cundatlon has been applied over the corrector and to the rest of the lace, concealing clark undercye circles and giving a smooth finish.

79

ApPLYING BLUSHER

Asubtle sweep or blusher will lift your cheekbones and enhance your face, It is applied after foundation, although if you have dear skin you could wear it on its O\NI1. Blusher is one of the hardest cosmetics to apply and must be blended perfectly

to ensure there are no harsh edges - using a good brush will make it easier. Choose the color caref-ully The tight shade will make you look healthy, while the wrong one will drain color from your face,

1 When applying blusher, avoid overload ing the brush - excess blus her wi II give a harsh, CIU,01Sy effeci, First. pick lip some color on the brush and lap the brush genlly to

gel rid 0 r any excess.

B ... "il bb"ltor -----:-''-----------------i ln '.rl upI11a.-d drr~"rioJ! aIotlg Jhr::- ~:Jlcej'.;hCitl.r::_' mrrllJlm(1 wdl

2 Using sweeping upward

strokes directed reward the icp 0 [ your cars, apply blusher 10 the apples of the cheeks ill a tea rdro p Shape wlth the thinner pan at the I:Op and I he wider part poinli ng toward your nose, Blend into you,1" loundar ion andat the

hal rline, wi thou! brush: ng

80 any coloriruo the hair.

Powder blusher

Translucent powder

Powde r brush

ApPLYING BLUSHER

Asubtle sweep of blusher v. .. 'l."lllift your che.e.kbones and enhance your face. It is applied after foundaLi.on, although if you have clear skin you could wear it on its own Blusher is one of the hardest cosmetics to apply and must be blended perfectly to ensure there are no harsh edges - using a good brush will make it easier. Choose the color carefully:

The right shade will make you look healthy, while the wrong one will drain color from your face.

1 When applying blusher, avoid ovcrlcadi ng the brush - excess b I usher wi II give"

liars h, clumsy effect. Fi 1'51, pick up so 111C co 10 I' on the brush and lap I he brush geml y to

get rid of any excess.

B,·u.s!! Ilhl'$llcT --------':__-------------1 in atl upward djrr;:(:li()J~ (ljDtig dloi:~ d.lc~jdJ[me5 Cfll'd blmr(j wdl

2 Using sweeping upward . 51 rokcs eli reeled toward the WI' of your ears, apply blusher 10 1 he apples of I he Cheeks in" [card 1'01' shape wi rh the ih inner pari HI the top and the wider pRrI. poi Illing toward YOll" nose. Blend i11l0 ),OtH' foundation and HI [he hairline, without brushing

8 0 an)' color into the hair.

------ PALETTE ------

-

-0-

Blusher brush

Powder blusher

T mnsluccn ~ p owd e r

Powd er bros h

31f you think you have put on 100 much blusher, brush over with a little iranslucent powder (see page 77) 10 tone down the color. Once you have finished

I he rest of your makeup. check thai ),OU have applied enough blu her and, if necessary, add a lillie more.

----TIPS----

• For a slighlly more girlish 1001, "sing eilhe,' powder or cream blLl5her, Clpply cirdes of blusher on Ihc apples of yOll1' cheeks (see above) Gnd blend wdl.

• Cream blusher. whidl glides on casily. Call be "sed to creale a more Ila!umllool, and 1V0rl1 \, elllVith liquid foundation. Piell tip some wlor 011 yOlll' jingerlil)S (lnd apply w the cheells ill a !em'drop shape. Blend ill !Ising a gellile ci .n.! II r 1110ti 011.

TilE fINISIIE;D UrcCT: Blusher has been used to enhance ih shape of the face and lirl the cheekbones, while lips have been

lightly brushed wuh a related shade. 81

SHADING &. HIGHLIGHTING

A lr(.:"{Jvy nr' ~lluarc JmvljJr~ SI,i(Jljjd ue ,),a/kd 10 crenrc II more QW1r slt(!r~

W" hatever shape your face, skillful shading and highlighting can help to enhance your good points and minimize the less desirable ones. Using a lighter shade of foundation than your overall base, highhghting makes features more prominent, while shading uses a darker tone to make features recede into the background. You should highlight good points, such as high cheekbones, but shadow plump cheeks or a heavy Jawline

16 Keep your hair off yauL" face by Ly'ng It back or usi r1g a hai r band 0, scarf. Exami ne your face [,orn the f .. ern

and in profile, Touch

the brow bones, eye sockets, nose bone, cheekbo nes a nd eil in wi th your n ngertips LO undersrand how they are structured.

2 Having decided

. w hieh [earurcs you want 10 shadow and highlighl. choose a cake [oundntion color that blends perfectly wi th your skin tone when applied along the jawl i ne.

82

------ PALETTE ------

~--~='-~=

Darker shade Base shade Lighter shnde

Sponge

OTHER EQuIP~~E..'"T 1-1 ni r band: or scad

n'OJ!nd Ch,cCi:-5, should )," silodcrlw '7"«1. ,Sjlml_ow~,. c(ju,Sing rjlt~m tu f"cr.-r.de

__-'-----jl'----- Cheddw".., should b. ilighligJ,,«1 W mo ,~, r "em s C,Jn

n Ion:: prom i u ell r

3 Apply a slightly darker shade of foundation to the areas where you want lO emphasize the shadows, such as a

heavy jawline.

4 Usc a slightly lighter shade of foundauon On the areas that you waru (0 highlight, such as

the checkbo nC.5.

ClleehbDnc:~ lwVG" -'I:-;-_:----bee" lifled CHId cmpJlGsrtcd wilh dC'",. ";g),ligltrirlg

A Ilen\lY j(lhI' lU1S __ -;-_ been soJrc;t'f!d With sI,dnle shading

5 Apply the base foundation to the who I face and neck, blending into the border li nes of th light and dark shades. Check (hat the makeup looks natural and balanced; go back over the light and shadow areas If necessary.

83

TilE FINISHED EFFECT: SOrL, subtle foundation with goocl features highlighted and emphasized,

and less desirable ones shaded and minimized.

--CORRECTING FACE SHAPES--

LONG To reduce the lengih of J long face, use D darker shade of foundation to shade around the lOp of ihe forehead, blending i l i11[O the hair!' ne, Shade along the jawline, 100, and under (he cheekbones, DOL a lighter

shade [usi above the cheekbones 10 lughltglu, (hen apply the base Iou ndaiion, blending well Reapply! he lighter and darker shades if necessary, Brush blusher along the cheekbones but not lOO far down the face,

SQUARE Soften a square lace by us' ng a darker f ounda Lion

lO shade all al most LJ'i"ngular shape on either side of the jaw_ Shack 111e sides of the forehead, LaO, 10 help reduce the wid; b of (he LOp par, of the face, 001 'l ligh te" shade above I he

chee kbones 10 highligh r, then apply base rO\L ndatlon,

blend ing well. Reapply Ihe

I igh LC'· nnd darker shades if necessary. Brush blusher along rhe cheekbones,

ROUND To reduce the width of a rcu nd face, usc a darker foundation underneat h the cheekbones 10 give 1 he lace marc angles. Blend (I pi nto

! he hairline, DnL a ligh ier shade above! he c hcckbcncs 10 highligh! and on ihc lip

of rhc chin '0 COllI1Ie'·OCI [he moon shape, A pply the base

f oundatlon and blc nd well, Reapply ihe ligluer and darker shades if necessary. Brush blusher along [he cheekbones.

Darker rOLlii.dil\i{l[l

Sponge

13a51:: shade Lighter shade

Blusher brush

Sponge

Iounduucn

11L1.5C: shade Lighter shade

Blusher brush

Blusher brush

84

1-1 EAI<T To even tip a heartshaped fnce, usc n darker shade of foundation on the sides of the fore head 10 h~ I P reduce [he wid th of l"h~ lace, and also on ihe li p of I he chi 11 1.0 make it look k5S poi rued. 001 a liglllcr shade JUSl above I he cheekbones 1.0 high light, I hen apply the base loundauon. blend ing well. Rcapp I)' ihc ligh rer and darker shades if I1CCC~s~'·)' _ Bn:Lsh

hi usher "long (he cheekbones blending it up 011 LO the temples.

Darker foundnuon

./ Base shedc Lighter shade

Sponge

Blusher

Sluulc the .sides (if 'he jo,-clll'od

----ACHIEVING THE EFFECT---THE FINAL LOOK-

5il",1c

a rC;1I md 'Ol'oj,ilo jo,-<l,<<I<I

Shade (dOJtg lIu:::)mvlirlt:

Shade wJ(lt.Tthc dJeeidJonC5

51Hlde 011 bor.il ;idc_, oj rlH:jwv

Slwrlo il,e, IiI' <if rile eI,i"

Higilligiu above rilE d!cc':boPl~·S

Use Musil'::"

alonglilc d'cel,bolles bUl riot 100 fardowli illejace

85

Higilligill above Ill!.; dJeddJOHCS

Higl,liglll ab-vlre rhc cjJeddJlutc.s WUJlW 111crJp Of"lI!.dlill

1'ligl,ligl1/ lrbavc rhe:: dted:Jwt!c's

aml.nlHa dte 11.·mll!c5

ApPLYING EYESHADOW

Dark and dramatic, light and pearly, frosted

and fresh - a wide variety of effects can be achieved with eyeshadows (see A Gallery of Looks, pages 8-25), However, the general rule is

to use four different-colored shadows; a neutraltoned base, a main color, a darker shade for emphasizing, and a lighter shade for highlighting. It is also important to use a magnifying mirror so you can see exactly what you are doing, and to keep a good range of different-sized brushes, or sponge-tipped applicators, to hand to help you blend the shadows well and prevent harsh lines.

1 Covel' the whole eye area with a specially Ionnulaied eye foundation, working

from the top lash line to the eyebrow. Gently Tub the Ioundation into the skin with your fingertip and allow to dry,

86

3 With a 111 zdiurn brush, apply the main color eyes had ow to the eyelid IIp to the socket line, SIan Irorn [he inside comer and work outward, but avoid building up color at [he inner corner.

r

,

Eye r oundauon

Large eyeshadcw brush

Medium eyeshadov v brush

Small eyeshadow brush

Base Main color'

Lighter shade

Darker shade

2 With a large eyeshadow brush, apply the neutral-colored base eyeshadow allover the eye area, working Irorn the eyelashes La the eyebrow and blending OUI very lighlly at the comer.

4 Use a mall, more pointed eycshadow brush to run the slightly darker shade of ihc I11a;n color in a thin line along the socket line, work; ng r rom the inside comer a utwa rd ,

5 For a dramatic effect, leave the line along the socket. For a softer look, blend it in well using the large brush, or a COlton swab.

6 Using the small brush, apply the larker color in a line underneath the bouom lashes, starling about halfway along the eye and working to the outer corner.

7 Run the small brush against the back . of your hand to remove color. Th n use it to apply the lighter, pearlier shade just under the bmw area. Be carcfu I 110 r to apply any color [0 the eyebrows.

II-IE 1'1 '[SilEO EffECT:

En hanced with a coal or mascara (see pages 90-91).

Small €)Ieshadow brush

ApPLYING LIQUID EYELINER

T iquid eyeliner is the hardest eye definer to apply. L It demands the steadiest hand, but it does give the most effective finish. It can be put on before

or after eyeshadow, but if you apply it before it is easier to cover up any mistakes that you might make. Always stan by blotting the liner brush

on a tissue to make sure it is not overloaded.

------ PALETTE ------

OnlER EQUlPM·E. .... 'T

Da rk eyes badow Mascara

1 Holding the skin sltghdy lam, position the liner brush at the inner corner of your eye, re.sling on the LOp lashes. Sweep along the upper lash Ii ne to the outer comer, drawing outward. LeL dry for

10 seconds and go back over the line again.

2 For a striking effect. leave theeyeliner as it is. For a softer look, brush over

it with a little dark eyeshadow l.sing a small, pointed eyeshadow brush, but be careful nOtLO press bard and smudge the eyeliner 100 much.

88

3 It ls generally beuer not to line [he lower lashes with liquid eyelin r; this creates a vcry harsh effect, Either us . an eycshadow (sec page 87) or run a koh I pencil along the inner rim or the eye, Inking it righl into the inner corner.

TlfE FINISI'I ED EPFECT: The to p lash line

has been smoothly outlined Wile. liquid

e eltner, while black kohl pencil applied along the bcuorn inner rim or ihe eye creates a smoky, sultry effect. A light coal or mascara adds the perfect llnlshing touch.

For special occasions when you want to create a dramatic effect, try enhancing and lengthening your top lashes with false eyelashes. These should be applied after eyeshadow and eyeliner, and are not as hard to put on as you might think. To remove, hold the outside edge of the lash and

peel off as gently but as quickly as YOLl can.

.-_ •

ApPLYING FALSE EYELASHES

OTH6Jt EQUIPMENT Glue. mascara

liquid eyeliner

3 Keep the eye closed for 30 seconds and then nL!1 a thin linc of liquid eyeliner over the "seam" to give a neat finish.

TH E FINISHED ~I;FECT: False eyelashes lengthened with a lillie mascara give the eye a dramatic. glamorous 100 k.

89

m Vl

1 Pick up a false eyelash with a pail" of clean tweezers and, llsing youI' other hand. run a small amount of glue (normally supp lied with a SCt of false eyelashes) along the top edge, Wait about 30 seconds for the glue to dry slightly.

2 Line up the outer edge of the false eyelash against the outer edge of your own lashes. Push as close as possible into the rOO\5 and lry not to panic. Make sure the eye lash is secure at both corners as well as at the center of the lid.

ApPLYING MASCARA

------ PALETTE ------

OHlER EQUUPM[[\.T

Eyelash curler Ti_ssue

~Iil<lg,ni rying mirror Conon swab

Eye make up remover

How many coats you apply and whether or not

. you use mascara on the bottom lashes really

depends on the style of makeup you want to achieve (see A Gallery of Looks, pages 8~25).

But if you are applying more than one coal, allow the first to dry before starting the second Always take mascara into the inner corners of the top lashes, which helps to make eyes look larger.

(yeln.1I comb or old masca La wa n d

Il[ your eyelashes are particularly

. suatghr, curl them with an eyelash curler. This will imrnedlately open up (he eyes and make them look bigger. But do noi press too hard - il could create

a kink in the middle of the lushes - and remember LO open up ihe curlers fully before pulling ihem away from your eye.

2 I f you want [0 apply mascara 'to l he be ttorn lashes. do so before coau ng the top lashcs.Tt ls very i L11 ponan[ nOlLO PU\ too much mascara on the bouom lashes, so

make su re the wand is nOL overloaded by wiping off

any excess on a tissue.

3t>HOld a mngnifying

mirror sltgh til' above )'om face and position the wand vert ically sU·.igh l in [rcru of you. Stroke down the bottom lashes, working [rem the inner

90 to the 01.1 ier corner 0 r the eye.

• To prevent a mascara wandfrom hecoming lao dogged, wasIl through with soapy waler, rinse, a11d

lei. dry completely before l,"Iing.

---- TIPS ---

• /11 case of snHldges, dip Q cotton lwah i nl.O some non-oily eye makeup remover' and gel1t1y r"ub off Wl W(IMea "'(lS[aI'CI as shown above .

4 Looking slightly dO\V11 Into ihe mirror, brush the wand from the rOOI 10 the end or the lIppermost top lashes. Then work r rom underneath in a diagonal direction and, finally, with a straiglu movement.

RoH tht wand to ""orit tlH~ ma.scarll 'PlIO lile mol< oj ri,e laslH"

91

5 If the lashes become stuck together Or you can see a clump of mascara, brush through with an eyelash comb

or an old mascara wand .

TI'I"; FINISHED EfF~CT:

The eye has been opened lip 311d defined by

app lying mascara [0 the rep and bouorn lashes.

---EFFECTS FOR EYES

DEEP·SET EYES Enhance deeper eyes by shaping lhe brows and SQflening with a brown pencil, Apply R gold shadow over the eye area and a rust shadow along the socket line. Blend well. Line the lOp and bottom lash Hues with a reddish brown shadow. Brush to so lien. Lighlly coal the top lashes wuh black mascara.

HEAVY BROWS To balance heavy brows, brush into shape, then apply a lilac shadow OVEr the eye area __ DOl a while shadow at the inner' corner, Use a vio let shadowat the outer C:QrTH~:r and on 1 he lower lash Ii ne, Use black kohl on the bottom rim and black liquid liner on the top lash line. Coal the lashes, wi th black mascara.

Gold eyesbadow

Rust eyes had ow

Li to. c eyes hadow

Redd ish b town eyeshad ow

\Vb j te cyeshadow

.Black kohl pl!!tci'l __ iIIiiiiiiiI_

violet eyesbadow

ROUND EYES Highlight

round eyes by softening brows wirh a brown pencil. Apply a pale green shadow over the eye area and under ,he lower lash line, and add a dark green 10 the lid. So1ltdge a charcoal shadow along the lOp lash Ii ne and line with black liquid liner, drawing outward. Sweep black mascara through the LOp lashes.

Pale green eyeshade .... '"

Block llquid eyeliner

Dark green cycshndow

Charcoal eycshndew

11 rown core b row pc n ci l

IUlIlI'Jik

Black masca ra

SMAL L EYES En I.rg~ smaller eYC5, by shaping brows wi tha brown pencil and using a pole pi 11k shadow over the eye area. Circle the eye with" brown shadow, smudging underneath. Apply soft black shadow 10 the lid. Line the top lash line wi rh black liquid liner , brus hing over with black shadow, Coal

1 he lashes wi I h black mascara.

Pale pink cycshadow

IHlllWik

Black ltqutd eyeliner

D 1:1] ck mas cam

94

ASIAN EYES To define Asian eyes. softly arch the brows and n II nny gaps with " gray pcnci L Apply a while shadow over the eye area, Softly Ii ne the seeker with a gray shadow and I"U!l3 thin line of blue shadow along the rep ami bouorn lash llnes, drawing om at the corner,

Coat the lOp and bouorn lashes wi lit cobalt blue mascara,

G 1"3)1 eyeb row p cnci I

Co bal I b] lie rnnscara

----ACHIEVING THE LOOK---THE FINAL LOOK-

.:

Goldow::r" WI·10re 1::Yi! a reel

Violt:::l nr cuter Gon!er' (Hid em lower' rc:rsJI riHe

iliaci, Iwill ",ong boU()m rim

Brad: :ma's£:(J,·,. OPl U)l) and bOHum 1(1 lIn

fowt:rlaslt I;"e

CII(lrco(jj c:m jO{J I(j.~-II Ii"lc

pore l~itll. m ... ~r wjlotc c;re {lrC(l

ilr'omt! In dn:k 11towul eye (wd smudgt'll undc~rncath

GI'flY lrjr.HI~ ~odtCI flue

Line 101' (.Uul 001 ram fll.slt lines ill hlta::

~:::"m •• ~

~lrj(1 bouom lasllcs

95

ApPLYING LIPSTICK & LIP LINER

T ipstick adds the finishing touch to makeup It L should help unite the other colors you have used and really bring your face alive. However,

if 'it is badly applied, it will look clumsy and unsubtle. The answer is to use a lip liner to give lips a neat, defined edge and to build up color using a lip brush To make the most of your individual lip shape, or to correct a particular problem, see Effects for Lips (pages 98-99)

OTHER EQU1P1'.t:ENT MOLStUI,L::.er F,(;Juudnlion and sponge Tiss-ue

Translucent powd-er Powder brush lipglo ss

Lip liner

lip brush

Lipsuck or ether 1 tp color

1 Soften lips by gently rubbing on a small ___ arnouru of moisturizer This will he lp the lipstick 10 glide on more easily.

2A 1'1'1)' avery lighl IOl11~h or your normal foundation to act as a base nne! help even out Inc co lor.

30m line rhe natural edge of the lips with a I ip liner I hat is nOI more I han One shade darker I ban your chosen lip color. This keeps color from bleeding

and gi ves a glli.delinc for applying lipstick.

96

4use a lip brush to appl.)' lipstick: .!I.'iS. gi ves you more C011lm.1 over direction. Relax your n10ULh so thar ;1 falls 51;ghliy open and brush on color f ron, ! he comers 1.0 (he no iddle poi III of both llps,

5 Press lips gently with a tissue, but be carefu I not to smudge the color or to remove 100 much. Then brush on more color to create a deeper effect.

6 For" mane err ci, dust lips lightly with uansluceru powder using a powder brush. For a shiny finish, usc a clear or colored lip gloss on top of lipstick.

---- TIPS -~--

• if YOH Jind il Iw,.d (0 keep your hanel steady while applying lip liner, try plcKil1g dots a15tra!egic [Joints arOUlld YOII" lips ,mel tilel1 co/meeting them. Be careJul "01 to make the dots too large.

• To prevent lipStidlJrom Slid/ing

to your teeth, put (I finger inside your 1ll00ah a.nd elraw out slowly 10 remove Cllly excess Jrom the inside oj tile lips.

• Up linas arE eCl~ler 10 sllarpfll if YaH put them ill the rcJligeralOr Jar about 30 minutes bcJorehand.

TUE FINISI-IEDEFFECT:

Lips have been given CXLra definition and brought to life with a burst of color,

97

---EFFECTS FOR LIPS

THIN UPS Make thin lips look fuller and accentuate their shape b), outlining just outside ihetr natural edge with a lip liner. Brush On a lip color

i nside the Ii ne you have

drawn. Avoid using very rnaue colors as these can make lips look even thinner; slightly gloss), colors wi 11 make

lips look fuller.

UNEVEN UPS Balance an uneven iop lip by outlining j ust out ide the thinner half

of the lip and along the natural edge of the fuller half u ing a lip liner. Check thai the line

is even. then outline the lower lip. Brush on a lip color inside the line. I r lips sull look uneven, add more color

to the th inner hn If of the lip.

Deep pink lip liner

Deep pink lips lick

98

SHAPELESS UPS Give lips more definition b)' outlining the lOp lip will, a lip liner to ernphasiae the "111" in the middle and so create more of a cupid's bow. Outline JUSt oiusldc I he natu ral edge of

the lower lip to make it look fuller. Brush On a strong lip color to help give the lips even 1110l'e definition.

FULL LI PS Make reu ILl'S appe"r thinner b)' lightly covering them with [oundali n to help blur the edges. Using a lip ltncr: outline lips just inside their natural edge. then brush on a lip color, being careful nOI to go outside the line. Avoid pearl)' 0" gloss)' co lors as

these will make the lips

look even full r,

UN EVEN COLOR Balance dtffereru-colored lips bl' covering both with a lillie foundation. Outline lips with a lip liner, then brush a darker shade or your chosen 11 I' co 101' oruo the lip thai looks lighlcr and" lighter shade onto the one thai looks darker. Purse

1 he lips gently logel her to

even out the colo,' more.

Sirong red lip color

Brown lip liner

Malle b1"O"'1I lip color

Fouudaitcn

Pink lip liner

Lip brush

Foundmjcn

----ACHIEVING THE LOOK----THE FINAL LOOK-

Outline ju,st oUlsid~: muw·o! edge oj lips to emplrmh::e Ih"' .. ,Iwp"

Bn"It on a slightly glo,,), color

OHljjm1 ai.orlg twtNrfjl cdge oj JI<lI, r It"1f oJ"']'v,,, lip

Ola!irH! outside 111;'11]'1" /"'If oj uneven lip

Bnlsll OJi colo., adding Hwre LO thinner part oj WIE\lt;1j lip

Oul/iliO 101' li)1 10 accerJuralc c::upjd's bOll'

Otl(lhw olitside

l!alura' edge oj lower lip

Bnfsl1 011 tl suong. ac_l1uiw color

Cover !igJHly wirl! Joumlw.iI'Hl

Dlldj.u;: iJl$ide II<1Iural edge oj lip'

Br-ush on color. tlyoidillg pearly or glo,,), SI",,1&5

C,,,,cr Ilgltr.ly wirltJOllnclarion

OHrjhlc (tr'olmd twrUl"ar edge

Brus/l a lighter color cnrc darbcp, til'

99

MANICURE

For hands to look their best, nails need to be clean and cared for A weekly manicure will help keep them in good condition and should only take about half an hour once you have had some practice. H you do not have time to apply

nail polish properly, simply buff nails with a chamois polisher to give them a natural, healthy shine. Try to use a protective, nourishing hand cream every day (see pages 110-11) and always make sure you dry your hands thoroughly each time they get wet, gently pushing back the cuticles with a towel as you do so.

1 File nails imo shape. Always file from One edge of the nail to the center. and then [r0111 the other edge back LO the center. Usc long, smooth strokes and never saw at the nail. File the top of the nail slightl,. nat if il becomes tOO pointed. Remove all traces of old polish using an acetone-Free remover and colton balls.

2 Soak hands for a few minutes in a bowl or SOap)' water 1.0 which a few drops of lemon juic and olive oil have been added; this helps to clean and soften

hands at the same time. Dr,. thoroughly

and clean away any di 1"[ underneath the

1. 00 nai 15 wit h an orange 51 ick.

Orange suck

OUlER EQUlPl-tlc1\'T

ail polish remover Couon balls

Bowl of soapy water with drops of lemon juice and olive 01_1 Nail hardener Tissue

------- PALETTE -------

Base coat

Nail file

Polish

Top emu

3 Push back cuticles very geniI,. using an orange stick tipped wuh couon. Brush on a nai I hardener if your nails are weak and prone LO splluing; allow

to dry thoroughly.

AWl)' 0,," Sfea(ly hn~.shstrohe: down !l,e ",idd!e of !l,e ,,,,iI, fallo",cd by One all each side

4Lay your hand on a nat surface and brush on a base coal to prevent the nails from staining. This also strengthens nails and a llows polish to be applied more smoothly. Allow to dry for a few minutes.

5 C>Apply polish, starting with one brushstroke in the middle of the nail and then one on each side. When dry, apply a second coat or colo r in the Same way_ Carefully clear away any blobs that might have formed at the side or the nail with an orange stick tipped with ccuon soaked in remover, Or a small piece of tissue with remover On it. When dry. repeat with a clear tOp coal.

T~IE FINISHED EfFE T: Nails shine with beauty and health once they have been cleaned, shaped. and colored

101

----TIPS----

• Calcilun is said to herp nails strong and l,eoltllY: da, ry prodl!cts. legumes. leafy green vegetable.s. and dlied Jruit are all.iel1 sources. However, it !alles aboH [ six montils Jar a nail !O be renewed, so do !lot expect to sec dl(mges ovemigll L

• When removing polish. SOGI! coUon ball with acetone-free remover and s(rol!f dovm the nail. working/rom the cuticle to the lip. Do not rub or you wlll cause VIe wlor co streall ml/O the shin.

---EFFECTS FOR NAILS

102

Fluo,'c5CCtl! colors (In: gn:fJtjor pal-l1C$li.5 .[hr:y 1001: _-::o \,I r bran t: li com oj 'I,ll rI, Ii "g _,i [ver polish mid; 'he finishlrlg wuclr

DA YTlME LOOK Daytime colors should be easy to wear. such as soft reds and pinks, gentle beiges and dusky

blues. first, file nails into a short, square style to create

a practical, SpOrty effect, Apply a base coat, let dry and then give nails tWO coats of colored polish, Finish off With a tOp coal.

PARTY TIME This is your chance to tryout those shades that you mtghi feel afraid of wearing during the day. First, apply a base coat, then tWO coats of a vibrant fluorescent polish, such as this green,

Add exira shine by using a sparkling silver polish on tOp of the main color when it is dry. Finish off wi In a lOp coat.

Base CI,'liU

THE FINAL LOOK----------

THE FINAL LOOK-----------

A p;r(~c!f'n', jl~lrL!n~' sryle JJttstl~ ou .s110n, S'(ILWt~ rwlls (Hld a so!!. lI(H:y-rQ~lvem· p(Jlisil