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    The Flat Bow
    The Flat Bow
    The Flat Bow
    Ebook116 pages54 minutes

    The Flat Bow

    By Anon Anon

    ()

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    About this ebook

    Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 6, 2016
    ISBN9781473351554
    The Flat Bow

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      Book preview

      The Flat Bow - Anon Anon

      Index

      The Flat Bow

      If you have never watched an archery meet or tournament, you should do so before attempting to make archery equipment. To stand back of the shooting line and watch the action of the different styles of bows is extremely worth while. One archer seemingly will aim to shoot away over the target, but his arrow falls short of it, while next to him will be one who uses an almost point-blank aim. You will see English bows, flat bows, recurved bows, bows backed with fiber, bows backed with rawhide, and some without any backing, and you will wonder which is the best one of the lot. Yet, each archer likes his particular bow because he is accustomed to it.

      There is much information available on the making of the English long bow. For that reason the description in this book will be confined to the different kinds of flat bows. These bows might be called American bows, as the Indians made and used them, but no Indian ever made as nice a shooting bow as the modern flat bow. The Indian bows usually are rather crude affairs, which bend as much at the handle as at the ends. They were used as hunting bows and were not designed for target shooting at 100 yards.

      The Flat Bow

      When making a bow, it is well to make it of a real bow wood. Yew and Osage orange probably are a little beyond the range of the average pocketbook. Lemonwood is excellent, and locust is good too. Hickory makes a good serviceable bow, but it is not as fast as the others mentioned. Therefore, if lemonwood is not on hand, use locust or hickory, and if directions are closely followed in making the bow, the archer will get much pleasure out of it. Get white or second-growth hickory with the end grain running as shown in Figure 1. If lemonwood is used, the end grain does not matter so much.

      It is easiest to make a bow out of lemonwood. The usual staves are 1 by 1 in. or 1 1/8 by 1 1/8 in. by 6 ft. For a flat bow, however, it is best to get a stave about 1 1/4 in. wide by 1/2 in. thick, and 6 ft. long. Plane this smooth and then sight along the flat side to see how straight the piece is. Quite frequently the staves are slightly warped. Draw a line down the center, as shown in Figure 2, in order to get the most out of the stave.

      Fig. 1

      Fig. 2

      If the ends are checked, cut them off. A bow of this type may be 5 ft. 4 in. long if made of hickory, and from 5 ft. 4 in. to 5 ft. 8 in. if made of lemonwood. Measure off 1 in. one way and 3 in. the other way from the center of the stave. This is for the grip or handle. Then measuring from the center of the handle, divide each limb into thirds, and then measure off 2 in. from each side of the nearest mark to the handle. Next mark off the width of the grip, as shown.

      The grip should be at least 1 in. wide. For a man’s hand it may even be wider. Draw two parallel lines the length of the grip, and then connect the ends of these lines to the ends of the lines marked A, in Figure 3. Be sure that the lines A are equidistant from the center of the grip. From B, Figure 3, draw lines to points located 1/8 in. from each side of the center line at the ends. The exaggerated sketch in Figure 4 shows how the layout should appear.

      Now, with a plane or spokeshave, work down the places marked A-B, to form a graceful curve. This will give each limb a long leaf shape, as shown in Figure 5.

      Fig. 3

      Fig. 4

      Fig. 5

      A piece of walnut or mahogany may be used for the handle, but any hard wood will do. The piece used should be as wide as the grip, about 1 in. thick and 8 in. long. The good mechanic may glue this piece of wood with its center to the center of the belly side of the grip on the bow, and trim it down later. It may be shaped, however, as shown in Figure 6 before gluing, rounding it and the back to suit the individual grip.

      The final shaping of the bow now begins, but before it is started, a rig for tillering

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