A toolkit to help you plan and plant

From experiences in The National Forest

Create a farm
woodland
A toolkit to help you plan and plant

Compiled by Hugh Williams

The National Forest Company

From experiences in The National Forest

ii

Acknowledgements

Funding for this guide has been obtained from the National Forest Company, the
Forestry Commission and the Leicester Shire Economic Partnership. The
preparation and advice provided by Ian Thompson and Chris Wait (both from
ADAS) is gratefully acknowledged. Lastly, but most importantly, this guide has
been prepared with advice and experience obtained from many landowners who
have created and continue to manage their woodlands in The National Forest.

© Copyright The National Forest Company

www.nationalforest.org
First published in 2003 by The National Forest Company, Enterprise Glade,
Bath Lane, Moira, Swadlincote, Derbyshire DE12 6BD
ISBN 0 85538 464 6

Editing and design: Jenny Claridge, Forest Research, Farnham, Surrey

Studio design and printing: Colourgraphic Arts, Bordon, Hampshire

Cover photos: View over just-planted woodland at East Hill, Tatenhill, 1998.
Marking out using a spray boom; a redstart; trees establishing in weed-free rows.

Photo credits: Christopher Beech, Rob Fraser and Martyn Pitt;

Forest Research Photo Library; Forest Life Picture Library
Illustrations on pages 22 and 26: John Williams, Forest Research
 iii

Contents

Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ii
Foreword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Why plant a farm woodland? . . . .Timber production . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Shelter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Screening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Game cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Recreation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Wildlife habitats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Woodland design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Type of woodland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Woodland layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Tree spacing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Tree suitability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .How to plant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Types of trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
When to plant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Site preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Marking out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Types of hand planting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Weed protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Protection against animal damage . . . . . . . . . . 26
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Keeping the trees growing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Replacing dead trees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Ongoing management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Looking ahead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Sources of further information and advice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
iv

Inviting children to help plant new woodland is an

excellent and popular way of involving local people. Over
150 local schoolchildren took part in this planting at
Chestnut Woodland, Moira.
 v

Foreword

‘Farmers don’t make foresters’ is one of the many myths that have been
shattered by the creation of The National Forest and other community forestry
projects throughout the country. In The National Forest, some of our finest
young woodlands are now being planted and managed by landowners and
managers who have never before even contemplated such an enterprise.
Nevertheless, it is not reasonable to expect such newcomers to have
immediately to hand all the knowledge, techniques and skills needed to create
and look after a new woodland.

Whether the primary purpose of woodland is for growing quality timber, for
nature conservation or for amenity, good management is both essential and
rewarding. A viable market for woodland products is the best driver for this
management and that is something we are working towards in The National
Forest. But knowledge of best practice is also vital.

We have had many pleas from owners considering a woodland scheme, and
from those who have already taken the plunge, for a clear, practical manual
covering the basics of designing their woodland, getting it well established and
its longer-term management.

Creating a woodland is a real commitment but enormously satisfying. We hope

that this book will provide a helping hand and reassurance.

Susan Bell, OBE

Chief Executive, The National Forest Company
vi

The extensive new woods at Grangewood (60 ha) and

adjoining Park Farm (82 ha) show the part woodland
can play in assisting farm diversification and
enhancing the landscape.
 1

Introduction

All woodland, regardless of where it is located, provides opportunities that far exceed
the trees alone. It can help landowners to diversify their landholding and business
interests, create commercial and/or amenity benefits and can be linked with work
that enhances or creates opportunities for recreation, public access and tourism.

The National Forest is creating, through working partnerships and with community
participation, a new 200 square mile multi-purpose woodland for the nation in the
heart of England. Ultimately 30 million trees will be planted which will cover a third
of the Forest area. The National Forest is steadily turning what was once one of
the least wooded parts of England into a sustainable forest for the 21st century
and beyond.

The aim of this book is to provide information for landowners who are thinking
about creating new woodland. Although every woodland scheme may have its
own set of unique particulars, the extensive experience of landowners within The
National Forest has demonstrated that there are robust guidelines that can be
applied to most situations. This book draws these guidelines together.

For more information on The National Forest contact www.nationalforest.org

Helping you to achieve your woodland

When you decide to create a new woodland first thoughts should be about why
you want one. The first section in this book looks at some common objectives for
planting a woodland. Having decided on your objectives, you need to design the
woodland, thinking about tree species and how the individual trees are laid out.
That is also the time to consider future management tasks, such as weeding,
because they will influence your decisions. When it comes to planting your wood,
there are a number of factors to consider; the middle section of the book looks at
various factors, from the choice of young (nursery) stock through to the tools used
in planting, to help ensure success. Getting the trees into the ground is a great
achievement but only the start of the story. So finally, we look at ways of protecting
them from damage (such as browsing), controlling weed competition and
maintaining them so that the wood you thought about at the planning stage
materialises successfully.
2

Why plant a farm woodland?

Well before a single tree is planted, it is very important to think about the
purpose of the woodland. Your aims will affect what woodland species will be
planted and how they will be managed. It is also essential to think of how the
woodland will ‘fit’ into the wider context of the landholding. For example:
• Will the woodland maximise the non-woodland benefits of the landholding?
• Could the woodland provide a setting for other interests such as lakes,
caravan parks, game shooting?

Factors such as these fundamentally affect the nature of the woodland created
and must be given careful and thorough consideration. Seeking early advice is
recommended. Sources of further information and advice are provided on
pages 33–36.

We need to start somewhere …

There are many reasons for planting woodland. These include:
• timber production • an educational resource
• provision of shelter • formal and informal recreation opportunities
• screening • creating wildlife habitats
• game cover • creating a landscape feature

Timber production
Timber production can be for use on the farm, for example fencing posts, or for
commercial purposes, or both. Most (70%) of the current national timber demand
is for softwood (coniferous trees) but this market is subject to major pressure from
imports. The longer-term strategy within The National Forest is to produce high
quality timber. The majority of trees (in excess of 80%) planted in The National
Forest are hardwoods (broadleaved trees).

Shelter
Shelter can provide increased productivity for agricultural crops or livestock
enterprises through improvements in the local microclimate. Opportunities for
new or earlier crop production may be possible. The working or living environment
around homesteads or workplaces can be enhanced.
 3

Screening
Woodlands can act as a screen to existing or proposed development, reduce
traffic noise or protect an area from dust and smells. Creating a woodland as a
screen can enhance recreational activities and accommodate high numbers of
people while minimising the impact on the local environment.

Game cover
Many existing mature woodlands were originally planted for game cover. Newly
planted woodland can provide high value for game and wildlife improvement. A
mixed conifer and broadleaved woodland with a significant proportion of woody
shrubs usually provides the best game wood. A carefully designed woodland is
required to maximise shooting potential. For example, the woodland must not be
draughty so good ground cover is required and perimeter hedging could be
planted. The positioning and location of glades and rides is also important. Seek
specialist advice from organisations such as the Game Conservancy Trust who
have a range of helpful information.

Education
Woodlands can provide a wide range of
educational opportunities, from a half
day tree planting event involving local
schools to focused programmes that
involve aspects of the national
curriculum, university studies or specific
arts projects. Woodland tasks such as
tree planting, weeding, thinning and use
of timber products can provide an
opportunity to train volunteers or new
entrants to the industry in forest skills. In
the wider context the general public
often enjoy being involved in woodland
projects and can learn a great deal
about their local environment.
Tree planting is a great community activity, often
involving local schools, and provides an opportunity to
learn about and improve the local environment.
 4

Recreation From arable fields to fishing lakes in just 1 year.

Woodland recreation can take many Beehive Farm at Rosliston is one example of the
way private landowners can use woodland creation
forms. Game shooting has already to help in farm diversification.
been mentioned, but there are many
opportunities that a woodland setting can offer from informal walking to specialist
organised events. These may include horse riding, carriage driving, mountain
biking, paint balling, motorbike scrambling, four-wheel drive courses, caravan
sites, timber cabins, camping, show arenas for specialist events, nature watching
and fishing. There are opportunities to make money from all these activities.

Installing boxes for the Noctule bat is one
feature of the National Forest’s
Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP) and is
frequently part of new woodland schemes.
The redstart – a BAP species – which
likes a mosaic of woodland habitats in
which it can feed and nest.
Wildlife habitats
Planting woodland creates habitats for a variety of
plants and animals. These range from the invertebrates
such as beetles and spiders that live on the forest floor
to birds and mammals, and from mosses and flowering
plants to lichens that will inhabit the mature woodland.
Ancient woodland (where there has been continuous
woodland cover since at least 1600 AD) is the most
diverse woodland habitat. If ancient woodland exists on
or adjacent to a site then extending and protecting this
feature will be of utmost importance.
Broadleaved woodland has a greater wildlife value than
coniferous (see page 6), but a compromise can be
found with the creation of mixed woodland. Shrub and
coppice and open ground areas all provide useful
wildlife habitats. Woodland schemes make provision for
both of these habitats so they should be considered in
the design. Indeed, unplanted land can provide great
opportunities for wildlife and can add significant value.
 5

Many additional features can be provided within a woodland context. These

include open water, wetlands, scrapes, reed beds, coppice, existing riverside
trees, ancient hedgerow trees, parkland trees, avenues, reinstating hedgerows,
planting of wildflowers and the creation of traditional hay meadows.

Landscape
Using available information and
studying the existing landscape will
help determine the scale and type of
woodland that may be appropriate.
Large-scale woodlands may suit
large open arable landscapes
whereas discrete woodlands may fit
better where small fields create a
more intimate setting.
The land around Bagworth in the Midlands Coalfield
The choice of species can also be has seen a significant increase in new woodland.

influenced by the surroundings.

Using natural regeneration in preference to planting should be considered next to
existing ancient and semi-natural woodlands. Traditional native species are
appropriate next to ancient woodland sites, whereas more exotic species may be
considered in a parkland style woodland. In an arable landscape single species
plantations can be appropriate.

Mature hedges, boundary trees and church spires, Maintaining views to and from a
as seen here at Lullington, are important landscape features
to consider when planning new woodland.
woodland are very important,
particularly where there are
interesting landmarks such as
church spires, and unusual or
special natural features, and should
be allowed for in the design.
Well-designed, well-managed
woodlands can increase the value
and desirability of a property.
6

Woodland design

There are many different aspects to consider when designing a woodland plan.
The main aspects are:
1. Type of woodland 2. Woodland layout 3. Tree spacing 4. Tree suitability

Type of woodland
Broadly there are four types of woodland that can be planted. A scheme may
consist of one, some or all of the four main types described in Box 1.

BOX 1 I Main woodland types and additional elements

■ Broadleaved
Typically consisting of major (dominant) species such as oak, ash, wild cherry and sweet chestnut.
They can be grown for commercial reasons and if managed correctly will produce high value crops
in the long-term (60 years). Certain broadleaved species may need pruning to maintain their quality.
Thinnings will be taken throughout the life of the woodland and will start when the woodlands are
20–25 years old.
■ Coniferous
Typically Scots or Corsican pine, larch or spruce, these are commercial crop trees. They are faster
growing and have the potential to provide early saleable timber. Typically the first crop, the thinnings,
will be taken from approximately 20 years of age and then every 7 to 10 years until the crop
reaches maturity (at 40–60 years old) when it can be felled.
■ Mixed broadleaved and coniferous
This type of woodland mixes the two types and provides a compromise giving the increased wildlife
benefits of broadleaf woodland with the quicker timber production associated with conifers. There is
however a need to consider the scale of the woodland, as small mixed woodland can negate
economies of scale, providing insufficient amounts of either hardwoods or softwoods to be
economic to manage.
■ Fast growing broadleaves
These are fast growing trees, usually poplars, grown under very specific planting and management
regimes to provide a final crop in a relatively short time frame of between 20 and 30 years.
Additional woodland elements
■ Shrubs
Shrubs form an important component of any woodland planting, providing cover for game birds,
wildlife habitats and nesting sites for a variety of species. Some, particularly hazel, provide minor
timber products.
■ Hedgerows
An important feature of the landscape, hedgerows act as corridors for wildlife, link woodlands
together, provide natural barriers and, where they encircle the woodland, add warmth to the
woodland floor.
■ Individual trees
Planting unusual tree species (such as wild service tree, holm oak, wellingtonia) in small groups in
an avenue or parkland style in open ground can provide a unique feature to the woodland.
Be a little different!
 7

Woodland layout
The layout of the woodland has to consider a number of important factors:

1. Reasons for the woodland 2. Surrounding landscape

3. Existing surrounding woodland 4. Areas of sensitivity (such as watercourses,
archaeological features and nature conservation interest).

The types of woodland will have been decided at the design stage, taking into
account the aims of the woodland and its site conditions. The mix of species
within woodland types and their distribution now needs to be decided. There are
three options for the establishment of the trees. They can be planted as groups,
in lines or in an intimate mixture.

Groups
The advantage of this system is that in a mixed planting tree groups (varying
from 20 to 60 of each species) will grow at the same rate, ensuring survival of all
the species and resulting in a woodland that has all species represented. This is a
robust and straightforward technique which can maximise the long-term value of
the wood.

Lines
This option is the easiest to manage and suits mechanised planting and
harvesting. However, care must be taken to avoid planting different species in
alternate rows, especially on sloping ground, as this can create what is known as
the ‘pyjama pattern’, because of the obvious stripes that are visible from a
distance.

Intimate mixture
This is a random mix of the major tree species. In appearance this mix is the
most desirable but in management terms it is the most difficult to achieve. Failure
to manage correctly will result in the faster growing species shading out the
slower ones and the desired design will fail to materialise.
8

Tree spacing
Tree spacing can vary according to the types of species being planted and the type
of woodland desired and will affect future management practice. Examples of
spacing are shown in Box 2; the one selected will depend on your objectives.

BOX 2 I Examples of tree spacing

■ 1mx1m
This spacing is preferred for withies, a type of willow coppiced and used for weaving material. In the
past it was a traditional planting distance for oak trees and results in 10,000 trees per hectare.
■ 2.1 m x 2.1 m
This is the normal minimum spacing for larger woodlands where timber production is an objective.
This equates to 2,250 trees per hectare. To grow quality timber, planting at greater density is
favoured. For example, a spacing of 2.1 m x 1.5 m will increase density yet still allow access for
maintenance between rows.
■ 3mx3m
This spacing is acceptable for small woods and in cases where the prime objective is to create
accessible community woodland. This equates to 1,100 trees per hectare.
■ 8mx8m
This is an option often used for poplar plantations. The trees are carefully pruned and grown through
to a single crop without thinning. This results in 156 trees per hectare.
■ Irregular
This may be random within rows and/or random between rows. It is preferred if a more natural
appearance is desired or if wildlife and conservation are prime objectives. This variable spacing also
allows space for natural regeneration to supplement the planted trees. To ensure successful creation
of new native woodland a density of 1,600 trees per hectare should be achieved.
Note: 1 hectare = 2.471 acres. 1 hectare has dimensions of 100 metres by 100 metres.

Regular spacing is much easier to manage especially when the trees are small as
it is easier to find them when they are in rows. It also allows the site manager to
consider management techniques such as mechanised inter-row swiping and
motorised spraying to control competing vegetation, methods which are fast and
efficient (see pages 18 and 25).

Tree suitability
The suitability of a tree species to a particular site will depend on a number of
factors. These include: soil condition, location, altitude and exposure. Tables 1 and
2 on pages 10–11 indicate the suitability of different tree and shrub species to
location and soil conditions. Table 3 on page 11 shows the suitability of trees and
shrubs for shelter. Possible end-uses for their timber are shown in Table 4, page 12.
 9

When considering what species are suitable, also think about the overall
balance of the woodland and what the woodland is for. Where timber is
a main aim, concentrating on a smaller number of species may be
desired. For example, consider planting three principal timber species
(about 70% in total), two to three medium height species (20% in total)
to provide balance and colour and three to four species of woody shrubs
(10% in total) to give low cover.

For woodland where nature conservation is important, the number of species

can be increased. Advice is contained in FC Bulletin 112: Creating new native
woodlands, based upon the National Vegetation Classification (NVC) – see
page 35. Each wooded NVC type (there are 19) is related to a particular
climatic zone and soil condition and represents the type of vegetation that would
develop if natural succession was allowed to take its full course.
10

Table 1 I Suitability of selected tree species to site conditions

Species Soil type
Wet / Heavy Neutral / Acid Light / Exposed Shady Contaminated
moist alkaline dry
Ash ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Aspen ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Black poplar ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Common alder ✔ ✔ ✔
Common walnut ✔ ✔
Crab apple ✔ ✔ ✔
Cricket bat willow ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Downy birch ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Field maple ✔ ✔ ✔
Goat willow ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Larch ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Large leaved lime ✔ ✔ ✔
Pendunculate oak ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Pine ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Rowan ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Sessile oak ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Silver birch ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Small leaved lime ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Sweet chestnut ✔
Whitebeam ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Wild cherry ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Yew ✔ ✔
 11

Table 2 I Suitability of selected shrub species to site conditions

Common name Soil type
Wet / Heavy Neutral / Acid Light / Exposed
moist alkaline dry
Alder buckthorn ✔ ✔
Almond willow ✔
Bay willow ✔ ✔
Blackthorn ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Dog rose ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Dogwood ✔ ✔ ✔
Eared willow ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Elder ✔ ✔ ✔
Field rose ✔ ✔
Guelder rose ✔ ✔ ✔
Hawthorn ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Hazel ✔ ✔ ✔
Holly ✔ ✔ ✔
Juniper ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Osier willow ✔ ✔
Privet ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Purging buckthorn ✔ ✔
Purple willow ✔ ✔ ✔
Spindle ✔ ✔ ✔
Wayfaring tree ✔ ✔ ✔

Table 3 I Suitability of trees and shrubs for shelter

Narrow-crowned broadleaves for Tall broadleaves for height Shrubs for dense lower storey
edges (many coppice well) and longevity
Alders: common, red and grey Ash Blackthorn
Ash Oak Buckthorn
Birches: silver and downy Sycamore Dog rose
Poplars Sweet chestnut Elder
Rowan Hawthorn
Whitebeam Hazel
Willows: white, goat and crack Holly
12

Table 4 I Tree species and possible end-uses for their timber

Broadleaved species Possible end-use
Alder: black and grey Turnery work, medium priced furniture and hardwood pulp.
Good firewood fuel.
Ash Specialist market for sports goods, also tool handles.
Burns well even when green – makes excellent logs.
Birch: downy and silver Useful furniture plywood and veneer. Poorer quality timbers used
for particleboard and pulp. Potential to create birch coppice
for fencing hurdles.
Cherry In great demand for furniture, veneer and turnery. Consider the
use of specialist species such as ‘Wildstar’; seek advice.
Hazel Traditionally used for hedge stakes and binders – a developing
market. Also used as a thatching material. Nuts are still harvested –
but a niche product.
Lime: small and large leaved For turnery and carving. Some furniture applications.
Maple: field Musical instruments. Wavy grain maple sought after for appearance.
Oak: pendunculate and sessile Furniture, panelling, high-class joinery and veneers.
Low grades – fencing and gates.
Poplar Particularly good for veneers and can be used for internal furniture.
Fast growing and can be harvested within 25 years but quantity
and quality determine potential value. Seek advice.
Sweet chestnut Can be split easily to make cleft fencing and stakes. Alternative to
oak in furniture products.
Walnut Potential for veneer quality timber if high quality stock planted and
trees are managed for quality. A specialist species, seek advice.
Sycamore Furniture, joinery & flooring. Quality determines price- ‘wavy’ grain
is particularly prized. Don’t dismiss as a ‘weed’ but consider risk
posed by squirrel attack.
Willow: cricket bat and goat Cricket bat willow is a specialist crop so seek advice. Goat willow
has niche uses for sculpture, craft and arts work.

Coniferous species Possible end-uses

Larch: European and Japanese
Pine: Corsican and Scots
Spruce: Norway
Yew
General framing, deckboards, baseboards, sometimes leading edge
board. Fencing, gates and posts, some joinery use
Trussed rafters and general framing. Deckboards and baseboards.
Fencing, gateposts, space boarding and purlins. Some joinery uses.
A species that can be used as a ‘nurse’ crop, felled early and used
for Christmas trees. However consider the increasing popularity of
varieties more resistant to dropping their needles; seek specialist
advice.
Specialist use in high quality furniture and crafts, such as yew bows.
 13

Planting

Now that you have thought about the design of your woodland, it’s time to get
some trees into the ground! In addition to planting techniques and the types of
trees, you need to consider site preparation and the best time of year to plant.
Seven main elements are involved in the initial planting of a wood.

1. How to plant 5. Marking out

2. Types of trees 6. Type of planting
3. When to plant 7. Tools
4. Site preparation

How to plant
There are four options: self-planting, hired help, professional tree planting
contractors or mechanical planters.

Self-planting
This is the cheapest option in terms of direct cost, and can be done at your own
convenience. Be realistic about the amount of time that it may take, time which
may not be readily available or would be better used elsewhere. Typically someone
who is not used to planting will manage to plant about 400–500 trees in a day.

Hired help
Using hired help will greatly reduce the physical workload but will still necessitate
organising the planting team. This requires a high level of personnel management
and the ability to interpret and implement the carefully considered design plans
effectively.
14

Professional tree planting contractors

This is the more expensive option, but it does move some of the responsibility
from the owner/advisor to the planting contractor. Choose recommended
contractors who can demonstrate that they are well organised and know how to
handle delicate planting stock. It is advisable to see if they have carried out work
locally and, if they have, to speak to the landowner and visit the site. Professional
tree planters work much more quickly and can often plant up to 1,000 trees per
day. They are experienced in implementing written planting specifications. One
disadvantage with good contractors is that everybody wants them at the same
time and availability may be an important factor.

It is accepted practice to put a tree replacement (or ‘beat-up’) clause into the
initial contract, making the contractors responsible for replacing any trees that fail
to establish over a specified time (usually the first two growing seasons). This will
encourage contractors to take better care with the initial planting.

Tree mortality of 5–6% at the end of one growing season is considered

reasonable. If the mortality is greater than this then possible causes (such
as poor planting, poor maintenance and pests) need to be investigated.

Mechanical planter
Using a mechanical planter is cheaper than hand planting and can give significant
savings in time. A machine planter can plant as many as 10,000 trees per day in
large new woodlands with a simple layout. They are less labour intensive than
manual planting but are not ideally
suited to sloping ground and are
dependent on drier and more friable
soil conditions. If conditions are not
perfect there can be problems with
the trees not being planted
completely upright. Drying out and
cracking of the ground can occur
where the planter has travelled,
Machine planting at Grey Lodge Wood, Ratby. Note the raised leading to exposed roots and tree
spray booms (front) and the planting machine (rear)
mounted on the tractor.
mortality.
 15

Planting designs have to be very simple to accommodate mechanised planting. In

practice a design which has too many species is unlikely to be accurately
replicated. Hand planting may be required to plant special tree species, areas of
trees at specific places or at awkward areas where the machine could get stuck.

Types of trees
There is a range of planting stock types to choose from and the choice will
depend on species and situation. The stock types include bare root transplants,
cell grown, whips, feathered whips, standards and setts. Box 3 describes the
different types and explains the advantages and disadvantages of each. As a
general rule, for most large-scale woodland planting, it is most cost effective to
use 15–20 cm cell grown conifers and 40–60 cm bare rooted broadleaves. It is
recommended that the trees are sourced from a reputable forest nursery.

The National Forest is committed to the use of trees of local provenance, i.e.
those grown from British seed, which have improved growth, better chances of
survival and support native wildlife.

Bare rooted oak transplant. Cell grown oak transplant.

16
Box 3 I Different types of planting stock
Type of tree
Bare root transplants
Tree height will vary between 15 and 90 cm
and trees will be priced accordingly. Up to 90
cm in height young trees are classed as
transplants and will be categorised by the time
spent growing in a nursery bed and the time
‘hardening off’ outdoors. For example a 1 + 1
transplant is one year in a nursery bed and one
year planted out. A 1 u 1 transplant is a plant
grown for one year in a nursery bed, the roots
are then undercut in situ and grown for a
further year. This technique creates large fibrous
root systems.
Cell grown
The trees are grown from seed in trays of small
plastic cells. They are grown rapidly in plastic
tunnels and then hardened off outside on
concrete or raised trestles. They can vary in age
and the length of time they have been hardened
off – very young trees should be avoided.
Whips, feathered whips and standards
These are larger trees that range from 90 cm
(whips and feathered whips) to 3 m (standards).
They can be purchased bare rooted (at the
smaller sizes) or rootballed. Rootballing means
the trees come with soil attached. This improves
their chances of survival but increases the cost.
Setts
Setts are cuttings of species (typically willow
and poplar) which are planted directly into the
ground. Willow setts are about 20 cm in length
and can be planted at great speed and high
density. Poplar setts are generally about 0.5 m
in length and can be bought with or without
roots; unrooted poplar setts are generally
preferred and tend to establish more quickly.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages
Cheapest, most widely available stock, easiest
to plant and have the shortest planting season
(November–end of March).
Disadvantages
Fragile, need to be handled gently and prone to
drying out. Ordering trees to be delivered in
specially made black and white bags allows
them to be stored for up to 4 weeks in a cool
and shady place prior to planting.
Advantages
Arrive with a small amount of soil, so are more
resistant to dry conditions and can be stored for
longer than bare rooted material before planting.
Planting season can be extended from October
through to May.
Disadvantages
More expensive than bare root transplants. Take
longer to plant. Good planting technique is
essential, as poor planting can lead to cells
being forced out of ground by frost. Heavier to
carry.
Advantages
Best used in specialist situations (such as
parkland, formal avenues) where an instant
effect and low numbers of trees are required.
Disadvantages
More expensive and higher risk of losses (can
be up to 40%). Larger and heavier so more
difficult to move around and plant. May require
pit planting, the installation of drainage and (for
very large trees) specialist anchoring.
Advantages
Quick and easy to plant. Willow setts grow
quickly in damper ground to give an immediate
woodland.
Disadvantages
A damp (not dry) spring is needed following
planting otherwise many trees can die.
 17

When to plant
Trees should be planted between November and the end of March and before
they start coming into bud. Budding can be suppressed by nurseries that keep
trees in cold storage. The season can be extended from October and into May by
using cell grown stock. Planting late in the season increases the risk of tree mortality.
This is particularly critical with bare root trees as they are prone to drying out.

Site preparation
It is vital to determine whether the ground has any innate restrictions to tree
establishment. If there is any doubt, soil pits (to about 1m in depth) should be
dug at different points within the field. If restrictions (such as a plough pan,
compacted soils or very heavy clay soils) are present this could result in limited
root growth of the trees, poor growth, high mortality and possible long-term
vulnerability to being blown over. Before planting, the plough pan should be
broken up by ripping or sub-soiling.

The site preparation is dependent on the current use of the field (pasture or
arable). For example, whether the field is rough, if there is a high incidence of
weeds, and what method of future management you are contemplating.

If planting into pasture you have to decide whether or not to keep the existing
grassland sward and plant trees into it or whether to plough the field and then
re-seed with a low productivity grass or a grass/wildflower mix before planting.
Planting straight into the grassland is the cheaper option. However, established
grassland often harbours small populations of field voles. Closing off the site to
stock or ceasing a cutting regime can result in a vole population explosion that
will put young trees at risk (see pages 23–27).

On arable fields it is important to decide whether to leave them in stubble or to

plough, cultivate and re-seed before planting. Leaving as stubble may mean
leaving tramline ruts and an uneven surface that will require remedial works and
may affect future management plans. It will also allow any weeds to colonise the
site and may make future weed control more difficult. Re-seeding provides the
advantage of knowing exactly what grass mix is present (and therefore how to
control it) and reduces colonisation by weeds.
18

If you decide to re-seed it is essential to use a specialist low-vigour

grass mix. Many suppliers sell specific ‘forestry’ mixes. You can increase
the diversity of the grass sward by adding wildflower seed.

Marking out
Marking out is done for two purposes. The first is to locate the boundaries of the
planting, open space and any changes in species, for example from trees to
shrubs. This can be simply done using canes, chalk or marking paint and makes
planting easier and quicker. The second reason for marking out is to achieve
correct stocking rates and assist future management. The following methods can
be used:
1. Full grid
2. Half grid
3. Poles and string
4. Canes

Full grid
This is the quickest method of
marking out and can be done in
Spray boom being used to apply marking
advance of the planting operation. out spray prior to ground being scored at
It requires a grid to be marked out Roecliffe Wood, Packington.

at the required spacing, both

up/down and across a field. This can be achieved by scoring the ground with a
bar attached to the back of a tractor or quad. Some sites are marked out by sub-
soiler and planting undertaken at the sides of the rip lines. Both techniques will
facilitate the mechanical cutting and spraying of the weeds between the trees but
the latter can leave an uneven and sometimes cloddy surface.

Half grid
This is the same principle as a full grid but marking out is only in one direction.
This method may be used on difficult or steep terrain (which makes marking out
in two directions dangerous) or where a simplified management regime is
intended. Maintenance can only be carried out in one direction – the direction of
the row. Planting rods can be used to mark the distances of plants within the row.
 19

Poles and string

This involves marking out the
planting area with poles and
indicating the rows by string
running between them. Once in
place the string will ensure that the
row spacing is constant in one
direction. Marked planting poles are
then used to establish the distance
within the rows. This provides
Scoring spike mounted onto rear of quad.
accuracy between rows; although
moving long lengths of string is
cumbersome, and in windy conditions accuracy can be reduced as the string
blows away or bows in the direction of the wind.

Canes
The planting area can simply be marked out with rods or canes. This is the
easiest and fastest to set up but has the greatest room for error. The planting
distance between rows and
within rows can vary greatly.
One advantage of this
method is that it is ideal for
achieving an irregular
planting pattern. Conversely it
is the worst method for
enabling future inter-row
cutting or mechanised weed
control.

Ground scored in both directions at 2.1 m spacing at Park Farm,

Ibstock. The chessboard pattern allows for subsequent management
in either direction.
20

Types of hand planting

If you have decided to plant the trees yourself, you will need to use the correct
technique to ensure successful establishment. There are two types of hand
planting technique: notch planting and pit planting, as described in Box 4.

Box 4 I Types of hand planting

Type of planting Advantages and disadvantages
Notch planting Advantages
The spade is used to cut a T- or L-shaped slit in A fast process.
the ground, which is then rolled back and the
Disadvantages
roots of the tree are inserted. The tree is then
As this method is designed to be quick, the
firmed in.
quality of planting can suffer. In particular, the
planting slit can be too small to accommodate
the roots, so do check.
Pit planting Advantages
A hole is dug in the ground, the tree inserted Better care of the roots. Ideal for smaller
and the soil replaced and firmed in around it. plantings or when tree planters are
This method is suitable for larger trees or root inexperienced.
systems.
Disadvantages
A much slower process.

The four main stages of notch planting

1. The spade is used to make a first slit 2. A second slit is made and levered back.
in the ground.
 21

General tips for planting

Whichever method is selected the following tips are important.

Planting The spade should be fully inserted into the ground and rolled back
over the boot (steel toe-capped boots are advisable). This opens the cut and lifts
the soil out of the notch. When the tree is inserted particular attention should be
paid to the roots. It is important to ensure that the tree is planted at the correct
depth: the soil level should be flush with the root collar, i.e. the point on the tree
where the root changes into the shoot.
To find the root collar, rub the tree stem near the root; the root collar is
the point where the colour changes.

Soil After planting, the soil should be firmed back down with the boot heel to
ensure that no air gaps are left.
Roots The roots should be completely covered by soil to avoid damage to the tree.
Ash and sweet chestnut trees tend to have larger root systems and can
be poorly planted. If you can see the root or if too much of the root collar
is exposed, then the planting is poor. Also check other species to monitor
quality. Walnut has unusually large root systems so it is important to
double check that they are planted well.
Alignment The trees should be vertical; if they are leaning over when planted
they will continue to grow at an angle, resulting in poor form and shape, and may
eventually fall over.

3. The tree is placed at the slit apex and 4. The soil is gently firmed in while
positioned at the correct depth with the holding the tree straight.
soil level flush with the root collar.
22

Tools
Figure 1 shows a selection of useful planting tools and explains their suitability
for hand planting.

Figure 1 I Useful planting tools.

Spade Planting spade Pole or dibble

This is a normal garden spade,
better suited to pit planting.
This is a much narrower spade
favoured by the planting gangs.
It is much lighter and faster
and designed to be just the
right size for notch planting
small bare rooted trees.
As its name suggests, this is
just a long straight pole used
when planting willows and
poplar.
 23

Protection

Trees need to be protected from two main threats: weeds and pests.

Weed protection
Weed protection is an essential part of tree care. It is important that this is
carried out immediately after planting and again each year after that (for about
3–5 years) in order to reduce competition for water and nutrients from weeds
and grasses. The timing will vary depending on the method. There are three
possible methods: mulching, mechanical and chemical; these are described in
Box 5. On all but the smallest sites chemical weeding is likely to be the most
economic technique. Mechanical or mulching techniques may be preferred on
organic registered sites and may provide less risk to wildlife.

A clear, weed-free circle following spot application

of herbicide at Seale Lodge, Overseal.

When to weed
Mulches should be applied straight after planting and should be inspected
regularly and reapplied as necessary.
24

Box 5 I Weed protection methods

Type of weed protection
Mulches
Mulching smothers weeds or prevents them
from germinating. There are two main types of
mulch: natural such as wood or bark chips or
man-made such as polythene mats.
Mechanical weeding
Mechanical weeding is the cutting of vegetation,
usually with mowers and strimmers.
Chemical weeding
The guidelines for chemical weeding are
constantly being updated. You are
recommended to refer to up to date sources of
advice and always check the label on the
container to ensure that it is suitable for your
situation. You can contract out the work; the
contractors then become responsible for
ensuring that the correct mix and type of
chemicals and rate of application are used.
A wide range of chemicals are currently
available. Broadly speaking these forest
herbicides fall into two categories: pre-emergent
(also known as residuals) and emergent (mostly
foliar acting).
Pre-emergent (residuals)
Pre-emergent herbicides can be applied prior to
planting or immediately afterwards as the
chemical goes into the soil and is then absorbed
by the roots. Examples include products based
around chemicals such as pendimethalin and
propyzamide.
Emergent (mostly foliar acting)
Emergent herbicides must be applied after the
weeds have had time to grow and establish
themselves. Examples include products based
around chemicals such as glyphosphate,
triclopyr and paraquat.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages
Can make chemical treatment unnecessary so
may be appropriate on sensitive sites. Can be
installed by volunteers without specialist training
or certificates.
Disadvantages
Organic mulches must be rotted down. Mats
must be fitted and fixed correctly. Loose
mulches may require an occasional top-up (or
herbicide spray). Expensive and mats can be
prone to pest infestation (voles and mice build
their nests underneath).
Advantages
Requires no special skills. Easy to see where
the work has been carried out and can be
physically rewarding.
Disadvantages
Needs to be repeated several times a year to be
truly effective. Easy to get too close to the trees
and damage them (particularly when using
strimmers).
Advantages
Relatively cheap. Very effective if applied
properly and at the correct time.
Disadvantages
Requires knowledge and training in the
use of sprays and their application. Most trees
require protection from sprays. Can damage
trees and the wider environment if used
incorrectly.
 25

Chemical weeding should be undertaken immediately after planting and then

again in the spring of each subsequent year for at least 3 years. The time of year
varies with the substance being applied. February–early April can be an ideal time
to spray while weeds (such as grasses) are just emerging. It may be necessary to
use at least two applications within a planting season. Should this be the case
then foliar acting herbicides could be applied from August to September and/or
residuals in December–January. As a general rule a minimum area of 1.2 m
diameter around each tree should be kept weed free from April–September, for
3–5 years after planting, or until trees are well established.

Mechanical spraying of rows with herbicide at Buildings Farm Woods, Hartshorne.

Failure to control weeds in the early years will significantly restrict tree
growth for many years to follow. The presence of weeds also makes the
trees more vulnerable to other damage as it is simply harder to see and
control pests such as voles and rabbits.

As with planting it is possible to hire professional contractors to carry out this work.
For help with invasive weeds, such as ragwort, specialist advice should be sought.
26

Protection against animal damage

New trees are very attractive to animals looking for
young growth to browse. They need protection against
common mammals, including deer, rabbits, hares and
voles, and against stock such as sheep. The four main
methods of protection are
fencing, tree shelters,
grass cutting and raptor
posts, as described in Box
6. Individual tree shelters
are needed on a number
of sites. They are very
useful but it is essential
Clear evidence of vole Raptor post – a cost-
to install them correctly – damage: removal of the bark effective and natural
see Figure 2. and underlying growth layers method for pest control
at the base of this poplar tree. in establishing woodland.

Figure 2 I Tree protection and tools.

Shelter Stake Mell

Used to protect the plant from
pest attack and enhances
growth by acting as a
‘greenhouse’. There is a wide
range of products (spirals,
sleeves, shelters, mesh guards)
so check that the selection is
correct for each species and
that it provides sufficient
protection.
If tree shelters are required Used for knocking in the
then a firm stake or cane is stakes to the required depth.
needed to ensure that the
shelter stays in place. Stakes
should be driven at least 20 cm
into the ground, but this does
vary with the type of shelter
and stake being used. If tubes
are used, the stake should be
inserted so that it is just below
the level of the shelter
(otherwise the tree rubs
against the stake and can be
damaged).

Box 6 I Main ways of protecting against animal damage
Type of protection
Fencing
It may be necessary to erect some form of
fencing around the woodland to keep out stock
such as sheep.
Individual tree protection
Different types of individual tree protection are
available, from spiral guards, sleeves, wraps to
double skinned tubes. All provide a physical
barrier to prevent mammal damage and
enhance growth through a ‘greenhouse’ effect.
Individual protection methods have the added
bonus of clearly marking tree locations, offering
a barrier against pests and giving a degree of
protection to the trees when spraying weeds or
cutting unwanted vegetation.
Grass cutting
This is important in areas of high vole
populations. Voles can enter through rabbit
fencing and under tree shelters. By keeping the
grass short between the rows they are deprived
of cover and more easily seen by predators
such as kestrels and owls.
Raptor posts
Encourages birds of prey into the woodland as
they can perch on the posts and use them as
platforms from which to hunt.
Voles seem to particularly like ash trees – so if the ash are showing
signs of vole damage then use this as an early indication that they are
present, pose a threat and need controlling.
27
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages
For larger sites this is significantly
cheaper than fitting individual tree guards. Less
obtrusive in the landscape. No broken guards to
refit or tidy up when no longer needed. Helps to
channel public access.
Disadvantages
Once breached the woodland is vulnerable.
Fencing does not protect trees against
vole damage. Trees can be hard to find if
competing vegetation is not kept under control.
Advantages
Offer greater protection to individual trees.
Easier to find young trees. Weed control easier
if installed correctly (no other vegetation inside).
Disadvantages
High initial cost. Too many tubes can give a
‘graveyard’ appearance. Pests can make nests
in tubes. High maintenance cost: ongoing
adjustment/removal of damaged guards and
stakes. Some protection degrades too slowly
which can ‘strangle’ and kill the trees.
Long-term costs of removal/disposal have
to be considered.
Advantages
Helps pest control. Can make site look ‘neater’,
although not necessarily better.
Disadvantages
Plan timing carefully to minimise disruption to
ground-nesting birds. Cutting can increase
competition for nutrients and make the site
more exposed, thereby slowing tree
establishment.
Advantages
Natural, effective, cheap and quick to install –
recommended.
28

Maintenance

Several aspects are involved in the maintenance of a new woodland. The

following is a useful checklist.
• Keeping the trees growing so they establish successfully
– weeding around the trees
– general grass control
– control of competition
• Replacing dead trees
• Ongoing management

Keeping the trees growing

• Weeding around the trees

It is critical that weeding is carried out at the
appropriate time (see page 23) otherwise the
weeds will out-compete the trees for available
nutrients and water before they become
established. The single largest cause of dead
trees is the lack of adequate weed control.

• Grass control Weed-free rows at Frankies, Alrewas. At this stage no

further herbicide control is necessary to ensure that
Controlling the grass by cutting makes the trees become established, but ongoing shelter
maintenance will need to be considered.
managing the woodland easier but does not
directly make the trees grow faster or
establish easier – these aspects are more greatly influenced by proper weeding
and general maintenance. Indeed, cutting vegetation can encourage it to grow
back more vigorously, thus increasing the competition for nutrients and water, and
slowing tree growth. However, there may be conditions, such as the need to
control areas of noxious weeds (although spraying is preferable on smaller
patches), to show paths, glades and open areas and to remove surplus vegetation
in order to make weeding easier, where some grass control is necessary. Some
woodland owners like to cut the grass to make the woodland look neater, but this
is largely a matter of personal preference. Two main methods can be used to
control grass: mowing and strimming.
 29

Mowing This is the most effective and

least likely to cause damage to the trees. It Muntjac deer are a threat to woodland and its
associated groundflora. Deer numbers are increasing.
is also a lot cheaper, faster and less labour
intensive than strimming. A number of
tractor-based flails and sit-on mowers are available.

Strimming This is labour intensive and frequently results in damage to the bark
at the base of the tree. However, strimming may be the only option if the trees
are planted in a pattern that is inaccessible for a machine-based mower.

Here there is a need to consider the benefits of grassland and unplanted

ground for nature conservation; controlling only selected parts of the grassland
may be required. Farmland birds have declined seriously over the last 25 years –
yet new woodland creates ideal habitat for many farmland birds such as skylark,
snipe, curlew, lapwings, partridge and pheasant. Each species has its own bird
nesting season (lapwings nest from April to mid August, snipe from mid May to
mid July) but as a general rule mowing should be avoided between April to mid
August. When mowing wildlife friendly practices should be used such as setting
a high mower height, manoeuvring around nests and, wherever possible, leaving
areas unmown.

• Control of competition
This includes weed and pest control (see pages 23–29). It is vital to determine the
current level, and future levels, of pests. This will influence the type of protection
used (e.g. individual guards, fencing) and determine management practices.

The creation of The National Forest is resulting in the expansion of suitable deer
habitat within a wider context of increasing deer numbers. Without adequate
control of the population, serious damage is likely to be caused to woodlands,
crops and groundflora. Appropriate woodland design (including deer fencing,
deer lawns) needs to be considered when planning a new woodland. Culling
deer offers the potential for income (stalking, game products). Management is
also important to maintain the health of deer populations. The National Forest is
encouraging landowners to work through Deer Management Groups to ensure
wise and sustainable management.
30

As the woodland area expands and matures, so the grey squirrel will need
control. Grey squirrels can seriously damage trees and can compete with and
predate on native fauna, such as dormouse and woodland birds. Trapping or
shooting are ways of control, but neighbouring landowners will need to work
together in order to be truly effective.

Replacing dead trees

Tree numbers need to be counted in August to assess success rate and calculate
numbers required for restocking (beating-up). When replacing losses, it is best to
replant with the species that are establishing best while considering the overall
aim of the woodland. Any natural regeneration can be used to offset the number
of new trees planted.

Ongoing management
This involves regularly checking the site to monitor the progress of tree growth
and looking out for potential problems. The following brief checklist may be
helpful.

• Weed infestation observed

and controlled
• Growth rate of grass and other
competing vegetation monitored
• Fences repaired if damaged
or collapsed
• Tree guards repaired, replaced
or removed
• Raptor posts in place
• General site maintenance, such as
litter collection and checking signage
• Mowing paths and glades

Spring in a young woodland – time to enjoy

and to plan ahead.
 31

Looking ahead

Creating new woodland on farmland is both a challenge and an opportunity.

Some landowners look at their newly planted woodland and feel a sense of
disappointment – the trees resemble little green twigs and their neighbour’s
wheat field looks so tidy. Yet, as the trees develop and the opportunities that
the woodland provides become more apparent, so these feelings change. Many
landowners comment on how they enjoy seeing the trees grow, the increase in
wildlife and how they find something different in their woodland every time they
go through it. The change from a ‘twig’ to a recognisable tree is not, as many
people think, a slow process. By the time that the trees are 5 years old they
can be 2 metres tall and the character of the woodland is emerging.

Successful woodland creation rests upon thorough planning, implementation

and maintenance. There is a lot of work involved. In particular the first 5 years
are the vital time for tree establishment and weed control – all of which can
influence the future direction of the woodland. Experience shows that keeping
things simple, robust and sustainable results in greatest success. A considered
design is paramount to avoid future conflicts, concerns and costs. Maintaining
woodland carefully, and carrying out operations at the right time, is imperative.
Not looking after woodland only serves to accumulate problems for the future,
so if there are any concerns, advice should be sought.

Like the trees, woodland-related opportunities can grow quickly. In The National
Forest, leisure and tourism are becoming increasingly popular and an attractive
source of income for many landowners. Markets for the timber are developing
– existing outlets are rejuvenating and new ones emerging. A woodland’s first
timber supplies will be the lower grade materials, called thinnings, that will be
produced when the trees are 20 years old. This low-grade material can be
converted into products such as logs, charcoal, rustic furniture or woodchips for
equestrian purposes or woodfuel. The development of installations that need
wood as a fuel in order to provide heat and/or electricity is a real opportunity,
both within the Forest and on a wider, national scale.
32

There is, however, no standard formula for maximising the products that can be
taken from the wood. In the past, woodland owners have sought to sell timber
as a raw, unfinished commodity. This benefits the buyer, not the grower. In The
National Forest every encouragement will be given to landowners to think
differently, to add value and to maximise opportunities. So, a maxim should be:
think beyond the trees.
 33

Sources of further information and advice

Organisations

National Forest Company

Bath Lane
Moira
Swadlincote
Derbyshire Tel: 01283 551211
DE12 6BD www.nationalforest.org
Responsible for creating, through working partnerships and with community
participation, a new 200 square mile multi-purpose forest for the nation in the
heart of England. The National Forest Company offers advice, grants and support
for projects that can help contribute towards the creation of the Forest.

Forestry Commission
Willingham Road
Market Rasen
Lincolnshire Tel: 01673 842644
LN8 3RQ www.forestry.gov.uk
Regional office for Forestry Commission advice, grants and forestry policy.

The Game Conservancy Trust

Fordingbridge
Hampshire Tel: 01425 652381
SP6 1EF www.gct.org.uk
A charity that promotes for public benefit the conservation of game species,
conducts research and advances the education of the public in game biology and
conservation. This is also the contact address for:
The British Deer Society Tel: 01425 655434
www.bds.org.uk
34

Forest Research
Alice Holt Lodge
Farnham
Surrey Tel: 01420 22255
GU10 4LH www.forestry.gov.uk/forest_research
Research, development and surveys relevant to the forest industry in Britain.
Information and advice via publications, webpages, consultancies and contracts.
Much of the research effort is directed at increasing the environmental and social
benefits of trees, including biodiversity and recreation, and ensuring integrated
land management.

Northmoor Trust
Little Wittenham
Abingdon
Oxfordshire Tel: 01865 407792
OX14 4RA www.northmoortrust.co.uk
A charity that promotes wildlife and countryside conservation. It offers specialist
expertise and advice regarding walnut for quality timber production.

Royal Forestry Society

102 High Street
Tring
Hertfordshire Tel: 01442 822028
HP23 4AF www.rfs.org.uk
The UK’s largest and cosmopolitan educational forestry charity, organising field
trips, study tours and publishing the Quarterly Journal of Forestry for its 4,400
members.

Small Woods Association

The Cabins
Malehurst Estate
Minsterley
Shropshire Tel: 01743 792644
SY5 0EQ www.smallwoods.org.uk
Aims to advance education in the conservation of small woodlands. Offers
insurance advice and packages, open days and woodland events.
 35

Further reading and references

Forestry Commission publications and website

Ellis. J. and the SE England Conservancy Team (2003). So, you own a
woodland? Getting to know your woodland and looking after it.
Forestry Commission, Cambridge.

Kerr, G. and Williams, H.V. (1999). Woodland creation: experiences from The
National Forest. Forestry Commission Technical Paper 27. Forestry Commission,
Edinburgh.

Morgan, J.L. (1999). Forest tree seedlings – best practice in supply, treatment
and planting. Forestry Commission, Edinburgh.

Rodwell, J. and Patterson, G. (1994). Creating new native woodlands. Forestry

Commission Bulletin 112. HMSO, London. Reprinted 2001: Forestry Commission,
Edinburgh.

Willoughby, I. and Clay, D. (1996). Herbicides for farm woodlands and short
rotation coppice. Field Book 14. HMSO, London.

Willoughby, I. and Clay, D. (1999). Herbicide update. Technical Paper 28. Forestry
Commission, Edinburgh.

Willoughby, I. and Dewar, J. (1995). The use of herbicides in the forest. Field
Book 8. HMSO, London.

Many other useful publications are listed on the Forestry Commission’s website:
www.forestry.gov.uk/publications. They can all be obtained from: Forestry
Commission Publications, PO Box 25, Wetherby, West Yorkshire LS23 7EW.
Tel: 0870 121 4180 forestry@twoten.press.net
Alternatively, contact your local Forestry Commission office.
36

Other publications

ADAS (2002). Creating native woodlands on farms. Defra, London.

Miles, A. (1999). Silva: the tree in Britain. Ebury Press, London.

Beautifully produced and photographed, this coffee table book will inspire and
fascinate all woodland owners and users.
 37

Notes
38
 Creating your own farm
woodland can be a
challenging and rewarding
experience. This toolkit
provides, in a concise and
practical style, information
that can be used by all
landowners who are
considering creating
new woods on farmland. Based upon the experiences of
landowners within The National Forest,
the toolkit:
• considers the advantages of
farm woodland
• describes what type of woodland
can be planted
• highlights how to plant and
manage woodland
• gives handy hints and compares
different techniques
• points to other sources of information
• fits in a jacket pocket so that it can
be used in the field.