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The unit is compact and fully self contained, needing only to be attached to the
support structure of the router table. Having run out of Baltic birch plywood, I had to
make the bottom gear from 1/4" hardboard. I submerged it in thinned urethane
overnight and after letting it dry for a full day, it had the consistency of tough plastic.
Indeed, this gear has stood the test of time - nearly 3 years and many rotations later
it shows no sign of wear. These were the rst gears I ever made and I laid them both
out using Matthias' Gear Template Generator (http://woodgears.ca/gear_cutting
/template.html) and very carefully made the cuts on my table saw.
The clamps that hold the router body were "cove cut (http://woodgears.ca
/cove/index.html)" on the table saw to the exact radius of the body, then bolted in
place with 1/4"-20 threaded rod.
I adapted Matthias' design (http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/index.html) but the basic
functionality is the same: 2 gears, the one on the front has a crank handle and drives
the one on the bottom. The bottom gear turns a threaded rod which raises and lowers
the router. Here, I used a ratio of 1:2, so for every full turn of the front gear, the
router would raise or lower 1/8". Good for quickly moving up or down but still precise
enough for fractional cuts.
Two hand screws lock the mechanism after the adjustment is made.
With the lift made, I moved on to the table itself:
Basic construction is 3/4" maple plywood for the outer panels, 5/8" melamine for the
interior. All of the joints are just glued and nailed butt joints.
The drawer was already built, left over from another unrelated project. Since it was
nearly exactly the right size, I adjusted the cabinet width to t it.
Mounting the router lift was a matter of screwing it in place to the main divider and
adding structure around it to adequately support it:
The space behind is the dust collection plenum, that links the area under the router
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(images/Router Table/ROT (2).JPG)
with the feed from the fence, above the table. This scheme works well, removing
nearly all of the dust produced during operation.
It's always good if the things that you need for the normal operation of a machine are
close at hand. Router bits, wrenches, guides, jigs and the like should be within easy
reach, preferably stored in the tool cabinet itself. To that end, I made this router table
with what I gured to be more than enough storage.
A large pull out tray for router bits and 2 smaller drawers are on the right, with the
large drawer at the bottom:
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(images/Router Table/ROT (5).JPG)
At this time though, I have more bits than will t in the tray. What I will probably end
up doing is converting the next drawer down into a tray as well.
The bottom drawer is lled - nger boards, bit sets, jigs and the xed base for my
hand-held router are kept in there.
The router compartment is closed o with a bifold door. I didn't like the pull out panel
idea from The New Yankee Workshop version, knowing I'd eventually misplace that. I
meant to drill some holes in the bifold door to balance airow between the fence and
the lower chamber but I haven't done so yet.
Seen here, I've put a narrow face frame on the front to cover the edges of the
plywood and bridge across the top of the cabinet:
The top member houses the recessed on/o switch, above the router bit tray on the
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(images/Router Table/ROT (7).JPG)
right. Having the switch this way prevents accidental starts but also makes it slightly
awkward to turn on and o. The power cord enters the back of the cabinet and I also
put an outlet there for convenience. The router itself is wired direct - I cut the power
cord short. I used the part I cut o (with the plug on the end) on another project, my
disk sander (http://www.ibuildit.ca/disk-sander-1.html).
The top is 2 layers of 3/4" material sandwiched together making it 1-1/2" thick. The
top layer is maple plywood, the bottom layer is particleboard and the edge is
trimmed with solid wood. The top bolts down to the cabinet underneath with 1/4"
Philips drive bolts into t-nuts, to make removal possible. It has had a few coats of
clear urethane sprayed on to seal it, make the surface slick and to keep it clean. This
surface has held up very well and shows minimal signs of wear.
The insert is perfectly round and has a pin at the back to hold it in place:
And a magnet at the front to keep it from lifting up when the router is on.
The magnet is glued into a recess and is attracted to the large head of the steel
screw. This holds the insert down against the fan exhaust from the router. This insert
has a 2-1/4" hole and is good for most of the bits I use. If I need a larger hole, for
example a panel raising bit, I'll make a new insert to accomadate it.
The fence construction draws heavily on the New Yankee design, with many
similarities. Made from 3/4" plywood with some solid wood edging, it clamps to the
top via a pair of hand screws, making it quick and easy to set and adjust. The hefty
centre section is higher, to accommodate hold down feather boards and other jigs.
The two fronts are movable, to close the gap at the throat when needed and also
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(images/Router Table/ROT (9).JPG)
handy for indicating the leading and trailing edge of the cutter.:
The homemade hand screw goes through the back and into a t-nut mounted in the
front. It is also possible to shim the out feed side outwards slightly, to use the router
as a jointer.
The fence has a duct (the box in the middle of the rear of the fence) that connects
the dust collection plenum in the cabinet with the throat of the fence:
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(images/Router Table/ROT (12).JPG)
This allows for the collection of dust from the top as well as underneath. Also seen in
the photo above is the 2-1/2" dust collection connection hole at the back of the
cabinet.
Dust collection is very good for all tasks, with very little building up in the cabinet. By
changing the collection pipe from 2-1/2" to 4", I could improve the performance and I
will do that in a future upgrade.
This project has proven to be one of the most useful I have done, seeing action
almost every day. Its ease of use, convenience and versatility are what make it a very
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worthwhile addition to the workshop. It's the all-in-one station for routing, both table
mounted and hand held, with everything within easy reach. Indeed, if I had it to do
over, there's very little I'd change about the design.
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