Está en la página 1de 36

E

E
R
F

ISSN 1853-9610

MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE

ART

N77 February - march 2016

in Mendoza

Wine
Harvest
Festival

What to
Do in
Mendoza

Winery
Guide

www.wine-republic.com
www.wine-republic.com

contents
News Republic
Modigliani & Co........................................................ 6
Zen and the Art of Mountain Climbing........... 6
Sunset in the Wineries.......................................... 6
Tasting with your eyes
Emile Giraud Emilie Giroud interviews two
of Mendozas most famous contemporary
8
artists........................................................................
Tips for Arte Lovers................................................ 10
Art Gallery............................................................... 14
The Revolutionary from Mendoza
Ben Shirley looks at the life and art of
Julio Le Parc............................................................. 18

Vendimia
Vendimia, the agenda is packed with events.
Here are the highlights.......................................... 22
Out & About
Dining out.................................................................. 26
Winery Guide........................................................... 28
Bars............................................................................... 31
Maps & More
Useful information.................................................. 32
Maps of Maip and Chacras de Coria............... 32
Map of Mendoza City Center.............................. 34

CREDITS
Issue February - march 2016 | ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
E-mail: mariana@wine-republic.com
Editor: Charlie OMalley
Assistant Editor: Emilie Giraud
Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti. jona@circlan.com.
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION
Contributing Authors: Emilie Giraud - Ben Shirley
Photos: Emilie Giraud - J ona Conti.
Cover illustration painting: Vino Argentino by
Fernando Jereb 2009.
Opinions expressed in this magazine are not
necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.
www.wine-republic.com

NEWS REPUBLIC
Modigliani & Co.

Sunset in the Wineries

In harmony with our main article in this edition, the art


and wine scene in Mendoza, boutique hotel Modigliani
Suites have re-launched their weekly art and wine
tasting soirees. Held on the roof terrace of this city
center apartment building, it is an excellent opportunity
for locals and visitors to mingle whilst sipping local wine
and absorbing paintings and sculptures by local artists.
The tasting starts very Sunday at 7.30pm and requires
pre-booking by email at espaciomodigliani@gmail.com.
Price: $350 AR.
Modigliani Suites, Alem 41, Mendoza City.

Traditionally wineries in Mendoza close up shop at


5pm. The Spanish-owned winery Septima has bucked
that trend with its well-known sunset tastings on the
winery roof terrace every Thursday evening in Summer.
A neighboring establishment Dominio del Plata is now
doing something similar with the creation of Crios, a
wine cocktail lounge with live music once a month on
Saturdays. Jazz, tango and folklore are played amidst
the open vineyards of Agrelo, complete with gorgeous
mountain views. Both wineries are a 40-minute drive
south of Mendoza on the main road to Chile. For more
details consult: www.susanabalbowines.com.ar; www.
bodegaseptima.com

Zen and the Art of


Mountain Climbing
Trekking in the Andes doesnt have to be all about getting
to the top. Whilst summit fever might fire up many who
take to the hills, a new way of exploring the mountains
is being promoted by a group of local guides under the
concept Trekking Consciente, or Conscious Trekking. The
route is adapted to each individuals abilities and there is
more focus on the environment and habitat, revealing
much about the local flora and fauna. Guides for example
are well versed in the medicinal quality of different
plants and herbs. Meditation, breathing techniques and
just plain old-fashioned contemplation and appreciation
of the inspiring views add credence to the well-known
truism that the journey is the destination in itself. For
more information contact trekkingconsciente@gmail.
com. Tel. 261 664 9181.

Tasting
with Your Eyes
Sergio Roggerone in his studio.

Emilie Giraud interviews two of


Mendoza's most famous contemporary artists.

Art and wine have always been entwined and no less


so in Mendoza. Wineries in a quest for glamour and
distinction often see art as a good marketing tool to
improve and refine their image. In 2006, Salentein
winery was a pioneer in opening a genuine art gallery,
Killka, in the Uco Valley.
Zuccardi, Trivento and Trapiche among many others
have followed this trend. Nowadays, very rare are the
wineries who do not exhibit at least one painting from
a local artist in their tasting room. In a similar move,
events like Tango por los Caminos del Vino or Musica
Clasica por los Caminos del Vino have turned wine
cellars into performance venues.
Mendozas artists have long considered the world of
wine as a source of inspiration and identity. Many use
the symbolism of wine, grapes and vineyards in their
work. Some design wine labels, others experiment and
actually paint with wine and more than a few drink
wine to stimulate their imagination. Recently, movers
and shakers in the local art and culture scene have
started to look at wineries as new territory to exhibit
and sell.
In a quest to elaborate on the relationship between art
and wine in the Land of Malbec, I have decided to visit
the workshops of two acclaimed local painters, Sergio
Roggerone and Fernando Jereb.

Fernando Jereb is a jovial, dreamy and socially


conscious artist who loves to transmit the world of
wine onto canvas. His work has been exhibited in
many wineries and he has designed many wine labels.
Sergio Roggerone is a very frank, romantic and
headstrong personality who tends to keep his
distance from the winery world. His distinctive work
is wildly sought after and has been exhibited all over
the World. Yet it is an understatement to say he is
not a huge fan of Mendozas wine and art scene in
general.
Both artists have explored the theme of wine culture
in their work, but from totally different perspectives.
Roggerone has developed a mystical and metaphorical
language which puts on stage women, grapes and wine.
His saints and virgins associate wine with sensuality,
virginity and gender empowerment. Jerebs work on
the otherhand, develops a surrealistic language that
give importance to undervalued wine symbols such as

Fernando Jereb
Fernandos studio is located in his home in the very
center of Mendoza. Minutes after I entered the place I
was already served a coffee and was seated in a comfy
sofa I wouldnt leave for the next three hours. The
artist knows how to make you feel at home and thats
definitely something that filters into his work.
Jereb presents himself as an artist and a wine lover.
He gets such passion for the arts from his mothers
side, and the love of wine from his father. As a child, he
fantasied about having his own winey and remembers
going along with his father to carefully select bottles
his dad would share with his friends. Opening wine
bottles is synonymous with joy and celebration.
As an adult, he lived for a year in Spain before returning
to Mendoza and exploring the theme of wine in his
work. He made his own wine with his family in the
backyard of the studio and produced his first Grand
Cru in 2002 in the midst of the harsh economic crisis
.He took an inspiring wine course at INTA and paid
for it with a painting. This first wine-related work is
a labyrinth whose paths represent the typical aromas
of different grape varieties and their connection to
sensorial memory. His experience as an exile and his
newly acquired knowledge as a winemaker helped
him to reveal the powerful relationship between
aromas, memory and identity.
Fernando defines himself as figurative paintor with
some characteristics of magical realism.
Bearing in mind the traditional landscape painting
of Mendoza, I wanted to generate a unique pictorial
language, and thats the reason why I started to look
for new, wine-related symbols. At the time, a lot of
artists would paint the la ndscape, the vineyard, the
glass of wine and the workers. I was more interested in
corks and stones.
I started to paint cork-houses in order to link the idea
of the home with the world of wine. My corks are the
ideal home for a wine lover. They bring back all the
happy uncorkings that punctuate my life .

Fernando Jereb
in his studio

For Jereb, the cork is the guardian of the wine, and as


such, it is key in the winemaking process . Yet painters
never gave the cork any importance.
Personally, I am a cork fanatic. I collect them. I am
obsessed about their little cracks, their specific tints
and their unique texture.
Jereb went on to creat a series of collages with corks to
represent his heart, mind and finger prints.
Another inspiration is Mendozas stoney soil.
Stones have always caught my imagination, I wanted
to give them an important space in my work, as much
as they are important in the vineyard.

Fernando Jereb Pedemonte - 2015

When I ask him if drinking wine helps him in the


creative process, Jereb recalls childish experiments.
When we were teenage art students at university, we
would get together and drink and paint with wine. The
results were disastrous.
Now I dont really drink when I paint, he adds.
But wine definitely moves him, fires up his sensorial
memory and his emotional self.
I always remember one particular Chilean wine named
Antu. It was a very strange feeling. I could literally
picture myself walking in a eucalyptus forest in the
mountains. An entire image appeared to me. I also
remember a white wine that immediately transported
me to the house of my grandfather and its backyard full
of jasmine. Opening a bottle can spur many emotions
and powerful images.
In that sense, he sees a connection between the work
of the winemaker and the work of the painter
The most important aspect in winemaking and art, is
the personal magic and the fundamental emotion one
wants to transmit.
Jereb has exhibited his work at Zuccardi, Salentein,
Trapiche and Via Cobos and has designed man labels.
Generally, he feels at ease in the winery world. He
says he has more friends in the wine world than in the

Tips

artistic one and that Trapiche is his second home. For


him, some wineries have truly genuine wine spaces,
like Killka and Zuccardi.
Pepe Zuccardi is an art lover and collector all his life.
He supports the culture of wine as a whole - the worker,
the teacher, the writer, the artist. He has created in the
Casa del Visitante an authentic space for painters and
sculptors.
When I worked with Zuccardi to create the label of
their new top line Fincas, the designer had to adapt
to my creation, not the other way round as is what
unfortunately happens in some other wineries .
For Jereb, local wineries are also very good clients and
enable him to live from his art. Trapiche commisioned
over 200 small art pieces for their distributors in 70
countries. Zuccardi acquired the big art pieces he
created for their labels and all the corresponding
sketches. In Trapiche and Via Cobos he has sold work
to visitors.
This also allows him to taste great wines.
I am not the kind of person that can waste a lot of
money on wine, but I have exchanged many works for
wine. Sure, I need the money, but I also need to drink
good wines. he says with a smile.

for art lovers.

IF YOU WANT TO VISIT AN ARTISTS STUDIO


:
Fernando Jereb. (+54-261) - 4274381 +54-9 261-5413100 - artejereb@hotmail.com.

IF YOU WANT TO VISIT AN ART GALLERY IN A WINERY

Sergio Roggerone : +54-9 261-6571967


sergio@sergioroggerone.com - http://sergioroggerone.
com

ZUCCARDI (Maipu) - (0261) 441-0000


www.familiazuccardi.com

Fernando Rosas: (+54-261) - 451 1605


http://fernandorosasartes.blogspot.com.ar

KILLKA (Uco Valley) - (262) 242 9500


www.killkasalentein.com

TRIVENTO (Maipu) - (261) 413 7100


www.trivento.com

Federico Arcidiacono: +54 9 261 5697137

IF YOU WANT TO BRING BACK ART

Carlos Escoriza: carlosescoriza@yahoo.com.ar


http://www.carlosescoriza.com

Officially, you need to get permission to legally


export it, but if you are in a rush

Lucia Coria: +54 9 261 543100 - luciacoria@hotmail.com


http://luciacoria.blogspot.com.ar

- say you bought it at an artisanal market and it


isnt worth anything

Laura Rudman: +54 9 261 305-9212


http://www.laurarudman.com.ar

- get a letter from the artist saying it is a gift

Alberto Thormann: (+54-261) 445 6654+54 9 261 155 19 02 17 - info@thormann.com.ar


http://www.thormann.com.ar.

10

- roll it up and traffic it in your checked luggage

Sergio Roggerone
Located on an old peach farm in Maipu, Sergio
Roggerones beautiful, ornate house looks like the quiet
retreat of an Arab- Andalusian prince.
El arte es la noticia del alma (art is news from the soul),
is his motto displayed in blue ceramics at the entrance.
It is notice that you are about to enter a spiritual space
that is somewhat out of this world.
The huge door opens into the artists home and studio
where he spends 10 hours per day painting. Giant
porch windows fill the space with daylight revealing
an interior with strong Mendocinian influences and
objects from all over the world. Under the protective
gaze of wooden saints from Peru and Italy, the imposing
workshop room hosts a multitude of items such as
Greek lamps, ancestral plants, precious books and black
and white fotos of his first mentor. Here you can see his
first piece and many works-in-progress.
A graduate in arquitecture, Roggerone built his house
in 2000, inspired by the south of Spain and Morocco
where he lived for a while.
I take inspiration from elsewhere and I bring fresh
air to my region He explains to me and begins our
meeting with a brief introduction. My name is Sergio
Roggerone, I am a Libra and I am a painter. I was born in

Sergio Roggerone in his atelier

the Hospital Espaol like the majority of Mendocinos.


He is definitely not the kind of person to speak about
his personal life for hours.
The interesting part of a painter is not his story but
his work he adds, refuting the common conception
that the artists genealogy or place should be his main
source of inspiration.
Mendoza is my home, the place where I like to live.
I like my people, my geography, the zonda wind and
Mendoza air. I love Mendoza more than any other
place in the world because I was born and raised here,
but the act of painting is a magical act, that involves
travel, flavours, aromas, places and some distinctive
vision one was born with.

Sergio Roggerone
- uva - 2008

This land is beautiful. There are a lot of spectacular


things, the mountains, Tupungato valleyetc. But that
doesnt mean it inspires you. One is born inspired.
Obviously, there are moments in which one is more
inspired. For instance, I am inspired by the Harvest
Festival, I love the tradition of Mendoza. But not
everything ought tp be transformed into art, otherwise
I would be doing folklore art. I am a contemporary
artist. I cant just drown myself in the wine world
or into the cultural tradition of Mendoza. It requires
something extra to make a truly transcendental piece.

11

Roggerone has a very romantic vision of art.


Art is an internal restlessness that one naturally has
and that brings you to art .
His work is figurative and contemporary. He plays
with various techniques, metals, frames, and shapes
and is famous for religious-inspired iconography that is
playful, colorful and inventive.
The theme of wine appeared in his work in 2003 for an
exhibition at the Modern Art Museum.
It was autumn, harvest time, and I had just discovered
one of my ancestors had once been crowned Queen
of the Harvest Festival. Thats when I painted a series
about the world of wine.
The harvest season is important to him.
When we are in Vendimia, I love to listen to our music
- Los Guanaqueros, Los Chalchaleros, Mercedes Sosa.
There is a song called The Virgin of Carodilla which
describes the vintners praying for her protection
against the hail. I listen to this song and I instantly
imagine the protective coat of the Virgen protecting
the vineyard.
A great wine moves me. The human work in the
vineyard moves me. The manual harvest, the antlike work it takes to grow a vine in such a dry, desert
setting. This is fabulous. The variety of grapes, the leaf,
the fruit. A grape is so beautiful. It is our symbol, you
cannot conceive Mendoza without grapes

One of the works-in-progress in the studio is of a


woman with a basket of grapes.
Its a request from a Mendocinian. They insisted on
grapes.
Roggerone doesnt drink wine when painting.
If you need something extra to alter your senses,
youre toasted. True artists are aready born with this
alteration. I live inspired. My problem is the lack of
time. Work is 10 % inspiration and 90 % perspiration .
On a related topic, he wanted to share a clear message
to his Mendocinian colleagues.
Do not paint with wine. It is made to be drunk, not to
paint with. Its an organic material and if you expose it
to sunlight, it vanishes.
The subject then turned to wineries as sponsors and
patrons of art.
I have been to Saint Emilion, to Bordeaux, Napa,
in many places where the wine is good but where
strangely, the art is very bad. The wineries always
want to link art with wine but most of the time, they
make mistakes in choosing the art, because they do not
know anything about art. They know about wine.
There are many wineries out there that boast about
having exhibitions, and bringing in artists. But most
of the time, I would say 99% of the time, what they
bring has no artistic value. They dont know how to
differentiate what is art and what is not. Many people
think they are artists but they are not. The bodegueros
should have a curator, a good one, one that has studied.
The world needs critics. The art youll see in the typical
Mendoza winery is most of the time really bad.
According to him, the wineries in Mendoza are not
patrons
The bodeguero is quite avaricious. He is a person that
does not really waste money in cultural development
or patronage.
Nowadays, due to the lack of public spaces dedicated to
the arts - almost all the art museums in Mendoza are
curently closed, such as the ECA, the Fader and the
Museo de Arte Moderno. many artists want to show
their work in wineries.
But the wineries are not really professionally prepared
for a good exhibition, except for Killka (Salentein) .
I feel wineries open art places to follow a fashion. Its
a very Argentine thing to do that when something is a
success everyone want to copy it. But things need to be
genuine, not snobbish. Snobism ends badly as it has no
essence. Personally, I think a winery is a winery. If it
starts to have an event room, an art gallery...etc, things
get diluted. The best wineries Ive visited are places
where 99% of the effort is dedicated to wine.

House of
Sergio Roggerone in
Maipu

12

More generally, art in Mendoza is still not at the level


of its great wines. There are just a few who produce
good art in Mendoza. Many of Mendozas great artists
have left to Buenos Aires or abroad.

13

art gallerY

Paula Dreidemie
Memoria oliva y rojo - 2015
www.pauladreidemie.com.ar
+54 9 261 2187568
pauladreidemie@gmail.com

Lucia Coria
Bebedora de miradas - 2011
www.luciacoria.blogspot.com
www.enlacasaroja.blogspot.com
www.vesaniabyluciacoria.blogspot.com
+ 54 9 261-4380787
luciacoria@hotmail.com

Laura Rudman
Equivalencias - 2013
www.laurarudman.blogspot.com
+ 54 9 261 3059212
laurarudman@yahoo.com.ar

Alberto Thormann
for a vineyards exhibition
http://www.thormann.com.ar
+ 54 261 445 6654
info@thormann.com.ar

14

15

German Alvarez
Cosecha- 2008
www.germanalvarez.info
germnalvarez@yahoo.com.ar
+ 54 9 261 4523859

Silvana Diaz Coppoletta


Rubi
https://www.facebook.com/
IoSilvanaPhotography/
silvanadiazcop@gmail.com

Lisandro Gabriel Gabetta


www.gabrielgabetta.com.ar
+ 54 9 261 6333111
lisandro@gabrielgabetta.com.ar

Marcelo Marchese
El sommelier
mchese@gmail/com
http://www.mchese.net

16

17

The
Revolutionary
from Mendoza

Ben Shirley looks at the life


and art of Mendozas most
famous modern artist.
Julio Le Parc.

Julo Le Parc was born in Mendoza in September 1928,


just three months after Che Guervaras birth in Rosario,
and like his world famous compatriot, Le Parc was very
much the inspiration of a revolution. The artist left
Argentina for Paris, in 1958, just as Che was fomenting
his revolution in Cuba with Fidel and in Paris Le Parc
became crucially involved in a new movement of visual
and cinematic art. Every part the radical revolutionary
of the art world, he became a precursor of Synthetic
Art. He helped break the tradition of the painting
and the passive public, introducing a dynamic and
interactive aspect where the art piece was changeable
and included the viewer. The idea was to take art to the
people and the street, away from the elitist art galleries.
Le Parc and his friends had mobile installations in
the streets of Paris, directly involving passers-by and
investigating human reactions and emotions as part of
the art pieces.
Son of a railway worker, Le Parc was born in the city
of Mendoza and when he was very young he and his
family were moved to the fledgling railway depot
town of Palmira, in the east of the province, 35km from
the city centre, on the banks of the River Mendoza.
He lived on Calle Uriburu, just a few blocks from the
river in this rural town in the heartland of Mendozas
wine producing region. Here he lived until aged 14,
playing among the vineyards and stealing grapes with
his friends. Seeing the irrigation of the vineyards with
the open ditches, and crucially living next to the river,
he was ever-exposed to the ever-moving waves and
currents of the water. The artist himself has said how

18

central the influence of water has been in his art. This is


seen in much of his work, which moves and reflects the
light. His hugely popular artwork can be described as a
visual feast of powerful colour, light and volume. This
could be Che describing the reasons for his revolution,
it is however the artist Le Parc who says his work is:
.to combat pasivity, dependence and ideological
conditioning, developing within this medium the latent
capacity for reflection, comparision, analysis, creation
and action.
Importantly, fame from his ground-breaking work and
achievements has not affected his humility or turned
him into an eccentric celebrity. He is profoundly aware
and proud of his Mendoza roots. He was in the city for
the inauguration of the wonderful Julio Le Parc Cultural
Center, built next to the old train station in Guaymallen ,
on the corner of Mitre and Godoy Cruz streets and where
several of his sculptures are on permanent display. He
visited the town of his childhood, Palmira, where he has
said he would like to live the last days of his life, leaving
behind his fashionable workshops in Paris for his sons
and students. As a final homage to his roots in Mendoza,
he has put his name to a limited addition Malbec, made
by winemaker Mariano Di Paola and La Rural winery.

Julio Le Parc Cultural Center,- (Guaymalln)

19

WISHLIST
MYTHIC ESTATE- MYTHIC
VINEYARD Chardonnay ViognierBernardo Bossi

Casarenas head winemaker Bernardo


Bossis own blend of Chardonnay and
Viognier is subtle and fresh. It feels citric
and mineral with hints of tropical fruits,
apricot and shows great acidity. Aged in
2nd and 3rd used French oak barrels for 12
months, it shows great volume and body.
170 pesos in Wine Shop Wine OClock

MOOR BARRIO - INITIUM- GRAN


MALBEC 2012 - 1000 bottles Cristian Moor & Teresita Barrio

MOOR BARRIO is a family garage


winery owned by winemakers Cristian
Moor and Teresita Barrio. INITIUM is so
hands on many of the grapes were destemmed manually by the couple and
their family. The grapes underwent a
carbonic maceration to extract maximum
fruitiness and half of the wine was aged
in first-use barrels. Notes of violet flower
and blackcurrant with smooth texture
and great body. 520 pesos in Wine OClock.

ECLAT - RESERVA EXTRA BRUT


CAELUM - Giuseppe Franceschini
Bodega Caelum and champagne house
Maison Penet joined forces to make
a top Argentine Sparkling. After 10
month of aging in oak barrel, this
mthode traditionnelle was left lying
with its lees for 4 years. It opens with
firm bubbles and reveals green apple
aromas and citric, toasted notes. A
tasty mix of New World and Old world
tradition. 440 pesos in Winery Caelum.

ALPASION MALBEC 2012 27,000


bottles - Karim Musi

ALPASION (alma +pasion) is the project


of a group of friends and wine lovers
guided by the talented hands of young
winemaker Karim Musi.The grapes were
sourced from Chacayes, high Uco Valley,
and the wine was fermented 10 months
in oak with native yeasts and unfiltered.
Great structure, fruit and complexity. 230
pesos in Go Bar.

LA PRIMERA REVANCHA MALBEC


2012- Roberto & Rodrigo de la Mota

Emblematic winemaker Roberto de la Mota


and his son Rodrigo created this new line
of wine as a metaphor chess - challenging,
elegant and subtle. Red and black fruits
with a hint of violet flower, great body and
persistency. A great example of Argentine
Malbec. 250 pesos in Wine OClock.

20

21

HARVEST FESTIVAL
MENDOZA
Only Mendozas Vendimia festival
could bring together flying melons,
a beauty pageant, city-wide wine
tasting and a song and dance routine
reminiscent of a Las Vegas show. Its
no wonder this local harvest festival
draws such a crowd.

In a country producing wine since


the 17th Century, the National Grape
Harvest Festival celebrates Mendozas
identity and is a source of great pride
for the locals who fervently support
each queen from their district. It is
the biggest wine festival in the world.

21-24th of February Pilgrimage of the Virgen de la Carrodilla


( Lujan and Valle de Uco)
The Virgen of Carrodilla was originally the patron saint
of miners in Spain. Her cult among the vine growers
in Mendoza started in 1811 when a Spanish migrant
brought a portrait of her among his belongings and built
a small chapel dedicated to the saint. One year a fierce
storm treatened the harvest with hail but it was stopped
in its tracks by a marathon vigil in the chapel. Since then
people worship her as the protector of the vines. She
presides over the Vendimia Festival and always has an
important role in the stage show.

22

Though the party begins months in


advance in districts across Mendoza
prov-ince, with most activities
culminating in the months of
February and March. On this, the
80th year of official Vendimia, the
agenda is packed with events. Here
are the highlights.

25-28th of February
The Mega Tasting
For true winos, this is undoubtedly the best part of the
Vendimia. For four nights Sarmiento street is closed
to traffic and packed with winery stalls, all dishing out
their best grog. You buy a ticket on entry and drink to
your hearts content. Top winemakers speak about their
project, live music is played and revellers swirl their
glasses until the small hours; The party runs from 8.30
pm to 00:30am on Sarmiento Street (between Belgrano
and 25 de Mayo).

23

28th February
The Blessing of the Fruit
The official start to the Vendimia
begins when the governor whacks a
suspended plough blade three times
in front of thousands of people. The
archbishop then blesses the most
extravagant display of fruit possible
and the Virgen of Carridilla totters on
her chariot above the heads of white
dressed candle holders walking in
procession. Add to this a huge choir
singing the lo-cal anthem and it makes
for a very provincial night of God,
Song and Grape. Starts early evening,
Prado Gaucho area of San Martin Park.

March 5th El Carrusel de las Reinas


On Saturday morning, the 18 beauty
queens once again parade through
the city and wave to the multitudes.
The parade showcases Mendozas
historical ties to the vineyard and
celebrates the future of the wine
industry in Argentina. While similar
to the Va Blanca conducted the night
before, you can ex-pect to see more
traditional elements of Argentine
culture: gauchos on horseback,
bands of folklore dancers and more.
Watch out for the flying mel-ons. The
carnival starts at 10am

Via Blanca

March 2nd
Airport Harvesting
Believe it or not, Mendoza Airport
produces its own wine it is called
Terminal. Im only joking but it is true
that the airport has its own vines and
one of the top events is when people
gather the grapes at night time
under the glare of the runway lights.
Bizarrely popular.

March 5th The Acto Central


This hugely popular spectacle is
performed by no less than 800 actors
in front of 100 000 people over three
nights and cost 100 million pesos
to put on. The Acto Central is the
culmination of the entire festival, and
the hundreds of dancers, musicians,
actors and stage crew put on a night
to be remembered with dance, song
and performance. The selected
Queen is finally crowned and she
becomes a hot local celebrity and
official ambassador for the province.
Nearly 25,000 audience members
pack into the open air Frank Romero
Day Amphitheater in the foothills
of the Andes, and another 20,000
fanatics from all over the Province
cling to the neighboring hillsides
to watch the show with a birds eye
view and support their Queen. If you
decide to go bring food, drink and a
butt pillow. For tickets go to any of
the big travel agencies in the city
center and it is best to go with a bus
transfer and guide as the venue is in
an isolated part of the park. The show
starts at 9pm but go early

Acto Central

24

March 4th The Via


Blanca - Queens Parade.
On this Friday night, the main streets
of Mendoza City fill with 18 floats
carrying beauty queens from each
district in the province. Along with a
variety of local personalities, gauchos
and the like, the floats weave their
way through the downtown city
streets while the queens throw fresh
fruit into the crowd. Melons, grapes,
peaches and pears soar through the
air into the outstretched hands of
the enthusiastic populace. One year
the mayors wife suffered a mild
concussion when hit by an errant
cantaloupe. The madness starts at 9pm

March 5th
Vendimia Gay
Since 1996 The Harvest Festival has
become more inclusive and now
officially recognises and celebrates
the Gay Vendimia an alternative
event organized by the citys gay
and lesbian community. A king and
a Queen of the Harvest are elected
and then well known DJs launch a
big party in the Arena Maipu. First a
private, somewhat raucous initiative
launched in the margins of the
Festival, it is now part of the official
Harvest Agenda.

March 6th, 7th and 8th Repeats of the


Acto Central
If youre not in the mood to sit
through a lengthy voting process and
coronation of the Vendimia Queen,
the repeats are the best option to
enjoy the show and save some time
and money. Youll also be able to see
performances by renowned national
or international artists.

25

dining out
MENDOZA CITY
La Patrona

This cosy Mendocino restaurant has a


casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful
hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona
attracts a crowd full of locals every night
of the week who come for the honest,
traditional Argentine food and friendly
and warm atmosphere. Classic dishes
like the hearty empanadas and sizzling
asado are worthy and popular fare but
the real star here is Patronas warm,
open sandwiches We recommend the
artichoke hearts and goats cheese;
roasted vegetables with white wine and
honey; or the more traditional pick of
rich glands cooked in lemon. A decent
wine list and some satisfying desserts
complete the gastronomy experience
but the key to Patrona is the cosy way
that they really make you feel at home.
Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.
Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm
- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal
cost: $150/(including starter, main dish,
dessert+a glass of wine)

gigantic empanadas, and serve hearty


Argentine classics such as locro - a
stew which hails back to the early
independence days. Save room for
the stunning desserts. The Hyatts
other restaurant, Bistro M, offers a
more gourmet evening menu and
the most exuberant lunch menu in
town. With a gorgeous buffet spread
of starters like squid and basil stew,
crispy calamari with cool gazpacho and
mezze style tapas, youll need to bring
your stretchy waistbands to fit in the
hearty and flavourful main options
and the sumptuous dessert buffet on
top. Put aside an hour or two for this
tempting lunch or make your way here
in the evening to try the Mediterranean
inspired dishes including delicious
pasta, fresh fish and some great cuts
of meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.
Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
M Executive Menu $280 with starter
buffet, main course, dessert buffet and
glass of wine.

kitchen to kitchen before she decided


to get back to her roots and set up her
own project. At weekends she turns her
kitchen into a laboratory of flavors and
her stylish living room into an intimate
dining space. Her refined cooking has
a home-made touch and she uses highquality seasonal products in quantities
that wont let you starve. Make sure
to try her 5-step menu. Ours included
a simple and delicious bruschetta of
dried tomato, black olives, ricotta and
herbs. This was followed by a miniquiche of bacon and bittersweet sauce,
pappardelle pasta with gambas and
cooked tomato cherry. The main course
was classic filet mignon with Malbec
and green peas cream. Dessert was a
succulent chocolate sponge cake with
cranberry sauce and lemon cream. Effe
opens from Friday to Sunday and is
located a few blocks away from the city
center. Reservations required. Cellphone
/ Whatsapp: +5492612370023.
Facebook : Effe cucina

Grill Q

El Mercadito

La Marchigiana

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill


Q serves up traditional regional cuisine
at a five star level. Sit back in the chic
parilla style restaurant amongst the
cowhides and local artwork, pick from
one of the many Mendocinean wines,
make your order and watch the chefs
at work in the open kitchen. They are
famous for their grilled meats and

Effe Cucina

With an attractive fairy lit patio and


terrace outside, this is the perfect spot
for some lunch time sunshine or al
fresco dining. Run by three friends,
El Mercadito has a cool vibe and
relaxed music making it a favorite.
Opened recently by three friends,
El Mercadito is offering something a
little bit different to Mendoza. With a
cool vibe, relaxed music and attractive
waiting staff, this is quickly becoming
a favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite to
eat or evening cocktails. Opening in
the morning for healthy breakfasts and
antioxidant juices, El Mercadito stays
open throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads and
some Argentine classic meals. Chow
down to big healthy salads like the
Langoustine with huge juicy prawns,
fresh avocado and green leaves or tuck
into one of their big toasted sandwiches
like smoked salmon and cream cheese,
or jamon crudo and arugula served
with chunky chips and homemade
BBQ sauce. As the sun goes down make
sure to try out one of their yummy
strawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,
Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.
Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:
Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

As the first Italian restaurant in


Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty
of history and traditional recipes to
whet any nonna`s appetite. Maria
Teresa Corradini de Barbera`s family
restaurant started off with only six
hearty Italian dishes but has grown
into a popular local fixture which is
always busy despite its curious lack of
ambience. The pasta is the best thing
here, maintaining original recipes
from over 60 years ago; we recommend
the huge stuffed ravioli. Check out
the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity
credentials. La Marchigiana, Patricias
Mendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.
meal price: $170

Effe Cucina

Effe Cucina is the closed-door restaurant of


chef, interior designer, and globetrotter
Florencia Previtera. This bubbly and
talented Mendocina studied in a
top Chilean gastronomy school and
traveled Europe for ten years from

26

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro

Anna Bistro has been an important


restaurant on Mendozas food scene
since it opened 8 years ago, however
that doesnt stop it from renovating
itself each year. This year Jerome and
his team have started smoking their
own salmon and cheese to add a bit
more flavour to some dishes and you
can try the rich salmon on delicious
brioche and go the whole hog with
a pot of delicious steaming, garlicky
prawns. Along with a handful of
salmon dishes there are a host of
different foods on the menu including
classic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastas
and lots of lighter options including big
salads, sharing platters and vegetarian
dishes. While lunch and dinner is still
its main game, the beautiful gardens
and restaurant are open for breakfast
from 8am offering unending treats
from their own French patisserie
and the late afternoon is perfect
for sipping your way through the
extensive cocktail list or take your
pick from the arm long wine list. Av.
Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818.
Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost:
$190 pesos.

Josefina Rest

The trendy, cosmopolitan international


cooking experience Josefina Rest is an
island of elegance on hectic Aristides
Street. The building is a playful mix of
the urbane and the natural. The warmth
of vintage style drawings adorning the
walls are illuminated through large,
handsome street windows.
Such an abundance of natural light
makes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.
After work hours, youre welcome
to pop up for some gourmet tapas
accompanied with a rotating selection
of by-the-glass wine. At sunset, a
thoughtful combination of candle and
industrial light bulbs will put you in
the mood for a fine dinner. The food is
eclectic, seasonal, and very personal - a
fusion of Anas mum traditional recipes
and of her own international cooking
experience. Dont miss the Goat and its

Club Tapiz

sweet red pepper pasta accompanied


with clay-oven grilledvegetables and its
parsley sauce! www.josefinaresto.com.
ar Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza
5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER


Terruo - Club Tapiz

Tucked away among the sprawling


Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort
and its lovely restaurant Terruo.
This handsome eatery boasts an
elegant interior, excellent service and
a wine list that is sure to please even
the most finicky of wine snobs. Their
chef compiles a tantalising menu that
includes top notch lomo steaks, a
rotating range of salads and a savory
ginger/honey chicken dish that is
second to none. If you like what you
see and taste, book a room in one of
their seven Renaissance-style villas.
Dont forget to call ahead for dinner
reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.
Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,
Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Los Negritos

Right in the middle of Las Vegas (in


Potrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza)
this restaurant stems from a story of a
family who came to live in here one of
the first weekend houses constructed
in the area. They named their home
los negritos a nickname of their
two young children. Many years
later, one of the negritos (Enrique)
decided to leave the bustle of the
city, moved to the mountains and
opened a restaurant with his wife ,
in Las Vegas. The restaurant serves
lunch and dinner every weekend and
on public holidays and the cuisine is
flavourful and typically Argentine
with stews (such as Tomaticn and
mondongo) milanesas, humita and
homemade pasta - many of the
recipes used are old family recipes.
The restaurant has been recognized
as part of the gastronomical route
and is noted for its quality of cooking,
architecture and landscape.Avg: $135.
Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.
(261)155697431. bodegonlosnegritos@
gmail.com. Fri to Sun and holidays.
From 12pm to 4 pm / GPS: S 33013370
- W 69272293

Finca Agostino

Elegance, history and the perfect


marriage of food and wine is what
youll experience by dining at the
restaurant of Finca Agostino winery.
Ancient vines with stems as thick
as tree trunks look in upon a light
filled, stylish interior with enough
space to dance a tango. The overall
vibe is polished and handsome. The
food is equally majestic - 5 courses of
well thought, imaginative dishes that
are paired exquisitely with all the
wineries wines - often explained and
described by the chef Sergio Guardia.
The menu is seasonal with much of
the ingredients freshly picked from
the propertys organic vegetable
garden and orchard. Creamy pumpkin
soup was the starter when I dined
there and the main course a choice
between prime beef or Mendoza kid
goat. If you have time make sure to
take a tour of the property which
includes an art gallery and replica
plaza of Plaza Espaa in Mendoza city.
Cookery classes are available where
you get to pick your own ingredients
and prepare and cook bread on an
open fire, empanadas, humitas and
asado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.
tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400
pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

Josefina Rest

Los Negritos

27

the winery guide


LUJAN DE CUYO
Terrazas de los Andes

Nieto Senetiner

Dante Robino

Located in a beautiful old winery in


Chacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888
and makes a great range of wines and
sparkling wines and offers horseback
riding in the vineyards and asado style
lunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia Vieja
S/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
nietosenetiner.com.ar

Founded in 1920, an atmospheric oldstyle winery with a modernist, lightfilled tasting room with excellent
view of mountains and vines.
(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com

Charming boutique operation with


nice history. A five minute walk from
Chacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.
(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. Monte
Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
closdechacras.com.ar

Melipal

Luigi Bosca

Mendel

A beautifully designed winery with


clear views of the mountains and a
large terrace used for sunset wine
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays.
Owned by the Spanish experts in
sparkling wine, Codorniu, they make
fab sparkling wine under label Maria.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan de
Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

The fine wine sister of Chandon


Argentina is a beautifully restored
bodega with well-appointed tasting
room. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.
(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames and
Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de Chacras

The Arizu dynasty are the royal


family of Argentine wine and their
seat of operations is a handsome and
elegant 110-year old winery. Classical
architecture, ancient atmospheric
cellars and rich wines such as the Finca
Las Nobles range make for a fascinating
visit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,
Mayor Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.luigibosca.com.ar

Renacer

This Chilean-owned winery creates


the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tour that includes a
hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen
1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or
261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.
com.ar

Kaiken

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses


a new venture by the prestigious
Chilean winery Montes. Big and
powerful wines, destined for fame.
TEL (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile
(0261-153 530 789) /Movile (0261-155
509 453) Roque Saenz Pea 5516, Las
Compuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. Open from
Mon to Sat from 8 AM to 6:30 PM/SUN
and holidays from 9 AM to 1 PM. www.
kaikenwin es.com

Catena Zapata

Showcase winery designed like a Mayan


temple overlooking vineyards and the
Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.
(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta Vista

Masterful mix of modern and


traditional.
Tasting
includes
distinctive Torrontes or single
vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
28

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches


make Melipal one of the most
exclusive wineries to visit. (0261)
4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujn
de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar
An old style winery ran by one of
Argentinas most famous winemaker
dynasties the De La Motta family.
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
mendel.com.ar

Via Cobos

American winemaker Paul Hobbs


was one of the first to recognise
the possibilities of Malbec and his
Bramare label is possibly one of the
best examples of this varietal. (0261)
479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.vinacobos.com

Tapiz

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end


restaurant Terruo and an instructive
wine tour including barrel and
bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. Ruta
Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de Baquedano

Gleaming modern facility with


fascinating
aroma
room
and
restaurant with Andean view. (0261)
524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.
www.belascomalbec.com

Piattelli

A lovely family owned winery


done in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch
on a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:
Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.
Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
piattellivineyards.com

Cruzat

A boutique traditional sparkling wine


producer with gorgeous bubbles that
can be enjoyed from their terrace
overlooking vines. (261) 5242290,
Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.
bodegacruzat.com

Septima

Alpamanta

Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set


in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.
Ideal for families and nature lovers.
Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.
www.alpamanta.com

Pulenta Estate

Cool minimalist design and rich


complex wines make this a winery
with finesse and style. Fav. Wine:
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.
www.pulentaestate.com

Norton

Old-style cellars contrast with a hightech production line. Tank and barrel
tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
are popular with the locals. (0261) 490
9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de
Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas Lynch

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely


old bodega with lots of character. Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496
0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.
bodegabenegas.com

Navarro Correas

The closest winery to Mendoza city,


easily accessible Navarro Correas is a
modern winery with great sparkling
wines and fun tasting options. (0261)
4597916. San Francisco del Monte 1555,
Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

Caelum

Modern, medium size winery on the


main road to Chile just before the
mountains and has a nice family feel
to it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.
R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.
bodegacaelum.com.ar

REFERENCES
Restaurant
Lodging
Driving time from Mendoza City
Art Gallery

Chandon

The original foreign investor, Frenchowned Chandon has been making


great sparkling wines in Mendoza
since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,
Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del Plata

LOCATIONS REFERENCES
Lujn de Cuyo

San Martn

Maip

Valle de Uco

Mendoza City

Ruca Malen

Excellent food, great guiding and


first-class wines. The pairings over
lunch make for an unforgettable
culinary experience. (0261) 5537164
- 2614540974. R.N.7, Km 1059,
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com

Argentinas most famous female


winemaker Susana Balbo is creating
some rich and complex wines in
the heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Decero

Lagarde

La Madrid/Durigutti

Owner of the oldest white wine in


South America. Try the hand-crafted
sparkling wine made from 100 year
old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.
San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.
Lujn de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Casarena

A beautiful mix of old and new, this


winery mixes tradition and modernity
in an old style winery with a super
modern restaurant with splendid views
of the vineyarsd and mountains.
Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.
casarena.com.
Tel 2616967848.

Ojo de Vino

A modern winery in Agrelo, notable


not just for exceptional wines such
as the Malo Blend, but also the fact
its owner is the Godftaher of Techno,
Swiss musician Dieter Meier. The
winery restaurant Ojo de Agua, has
a delighful setting next to a vineyard
lake.
Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel
2615731688. hospitality@ojodevino.
com

Attractive, modern facility with


spectacular views of the mountains
from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Dolium

A completely underground winery


with innovative design and top notch
Malbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km
30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

Maip
Trapiche

Argentinas biggest winery is a mix of


old and new, traditional and industrial,
and has the old train tracks leading
up to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.
Coquimbito, Maip. www.trapiche.
com.ar

Tucked away in a restored winery


in Las Compuertas, you can taste
single vineyard and terroir blend
wines from both of these ambitious
projects from under one roof. Walkins welcome.
Roque Senz Pea 8450, Las
Compuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. (261) 562
9134/35.www.durigutti.com
www.lamadridwines.com

El Enemigo

Vistalba

Elegant and picturesque winery with


ancient vines and walled orchard.
Offer superb lunches and cookery
classes.
Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.
2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

Tasting room where one entire wall


is a subterranean cross section of the
actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.
Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. Roque
Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.
carlospulentawines

One of Argentinas most talented


winemakers
Alejandro
Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.
Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261
697 4213

Finca Agostino

Achaval Ferrer

Modern boutique close to Mendoza


riverbed. Big concentrated wines.
(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,
Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.
com

Carmelo Patti

Mendozas most famous garagista.


Carmelo Patti himself is often there
to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.
Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the
barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin
2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

Familia Cassone

A charming, family owned winery


in a beautiful setting. Try the jasmine
tinted ros amidst the pastoral
splendour of the owners expansive
garden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)
424 6301.
www.familiacassone.com.ar

San Felipe Wine Museum

29

the winery guide


Don Manuel Villafane

25

Modern winery in the wide open


vineyards of southern Maipu.
Intense,
complex
wines.
Art
exhibition all year long.
Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.
Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

Trivento

Located in the bucolic splendour of


southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
modern winery has a beautiful
deck set amidst the vineyards and
offers bicycle excursions within the
property. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,
5517 Maip, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 4137156. www.trivento.com

Flichman

Steeped in history and tradition.


Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style
bodega, set in the leafy vineyards
of southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039.
Munives 800, Barrancas, Maip. www.
flichman.com

Familia Di Tommasso

Officially the second oldest winery in


Mendoza and still run by Argentine
hands. Their charming and rustic
restaurant looks onto the vineyard,
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.
familiaditommaso.com

Familia Zuccardi

A professional, far-sighted operation.


Attractive restaurant amidst the
vines, famous for its asado-style
lunches and generous wine pourings.
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas Elegidas

Making real vinos de autor, US born


Brennan Firth makes his limited
production wines in a small winery
in Maipu. Exclusive and ultra high
end wines, a visit and tasting is with
the winemaker himself. To visit Cepas
Elegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP Cava

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.


(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros
2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.
bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin

A family winery using organic and


biodynamic principles where you
can see the entire process from the
beautiful green vineyards to the minimal
intervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MA
Saez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.
com.ar

Carinae

Small, charming, French-owned winery


offering personal tours and well-honed
wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive
trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899,
Cruz de Piedra, Maip .
www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus Alba

A fine modern winery set in the rural


lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop
terrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 481
3501. Perito Moreno 572, Maip. www.
tempusalba.com

Lopez

Popular, old-style winery with two


museums on the wine. Restaurant offers
gourmet cuisine with a panoramic view.
(0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez,
Maip. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

VALLE DE UCO
Andeluna

The old-world style tasting room looks


upon dramatic views of vineyards
against mountains. (02622) 423 226
Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

Atamisque

This Uco winery has some great white


wines, a unique stony roof and they
breed their own trout which is served
in the charming restaurant.(0261)
156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,
Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

Premium wines made from different


terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
and a close proximity to the city
make it a recommended visit. Gmez
Adriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maip - (261)
4813201/4668048

La Azul

Rutini / La Rural

One of the valleys oldest wineries. They


conduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622)
451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio
Bustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

Well-stocked
museum
with
invaluable antiques like cowhide
wine presses and buckets. Giant oak
30

Salentein

Designed like a temple to wine, this


ultra-concept winery includes a modern
art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in
the Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P
89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.
com

O. Fournier

Most architecturally innovative winery


with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent
lunches in the modernist visitor center.
(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La
Consulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.
com

Gimenez Riili

A brand new family run affair, part of


the exciting Vines of Mendoza project.
This is a modern winery in a stunning
setting.
0261-156317105/
0261153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyn.
www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega Masi

Fascinating Italian job in the heart of


Tupungato with commanding views
and commanding wines, especiially
the Amarone inspired varietals and
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.
www.masitupungato.com

Domaine Bousquet

Another French transplant to the


Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
this sizeable operation produces
high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
and Malbec and now has a popular
restaurant serving excellent tasting
menu lunches. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
www.domainebousquet.com
Tel
2615274048

The Vines of Mendoza

Best described as a cooperative of wine


lovers around the World who have
all bought a vineyard plot each in Uco
Valley and are making their own wine
in a central winery with experts such
as Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add to
this a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley will
never be the same again.
Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

Simple, small production winery with not


so simple Malbecs and a small traditional
restaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.
Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.
bodegalaazul.com

Diamandes

Finca La Celia

Finca Sophenia

Modern, imposing winery with


magnificent wines, part of prestigious
French group Clos de los Siete. Calle Silva
S/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.
Modern, high tech winery in stunning
location. High quality wines overseen
by Michele Rolland. www.sophenia.
com.ar Tel. 02622 489680

bars
inside Mendoza City
The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva
Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred
to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to
San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out
because the clubs dont even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located
out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

MATIAS DOWN TOWN


Victorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from is
enough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.
Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain starting
in Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San
Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendozas version is right
in the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off or
some serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.

Black Sheep
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an Americanstyle sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB


One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English partowner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit musicvideo montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.
believeirishpub.com.ar

31

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at
least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most
wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.
Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The
most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount
as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES
Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.
NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is
wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own
toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going
before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org.
HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca),
tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin
1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped
off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

32

33

34

35

36

También podría gustarte