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GUÍA DE PUNTOS

ALGERIAN FILLING STITCH


This stitch is ideal for working large background areas. Work a vertical row
ALGERIAN EYE STITCH AND VARIATION of blocks consisting of three satin stitches over four canvas threads. Stagger
Starting on the vertical at 1 work a straight stitch over two threads. Bring the the blocks by working the second vertical row of stitching two threads down
needle out at 2 and into the same centre hole. Out at 3, in at the centre, out at from the previous row.
4 and in at the centre. Bring the needle out at 5, and work a diagonal straight
stitch over 2 intersections into the same centre hole as before. Work the
remaining diagonal stitches as shown in Fig. 1.
For the variation work two long straight stitches, bringing the needle out at 1
and in at 7, out at 2 and in at 8, as shown in Fig. 2. Then bringing the needle
out at 4, in at 6, out at 3 and in at 5. This will complete the variation.

BACK STITCH (For Canvas)


Bring the thread out at the right-hand side. Take a backward stitch over the
required number of threads, bringing the needle out the same number of
ARROWHEAD STITCH
stitches in front of the place where the thread first emerged. Continue in this
Bring the thread to the front at A, insert the needle at B, bring the needle
way, working from right to left in the required direction.
through at C and back down at B. Bring the needle through at D to start the
second stitch. Continue as shown.
This stitch can be used on an evenweave fabric and be worked horizontally or
vertically. It can also be worked in free style and each motif can be scattered at
random as a filling stitch.

BASKETWEAVE TENT STITCH


Work as for tent stitch beginning in the top right-hand corner of the area to
BACK STITCH (for fabric) be filled, stitching in diagonal rows as shown in the diagram. A basketweave
Bring the thread through on the stitch line, then take a small backward stitch pattern will appear on the back of your canvas giving a padded and durable
through the fabric. Bring the needle through again a little in front of the first effect.
stitch, take another stitch, inserting the needle at the point where it first came
through

BERWICK STITCH
This is usually worked in a line on an evenweave fabric. The knot forms the
BASQUE STITCH base with straight stitches coming from it.
This is a looped stitch with a twist. Bring the thread out at A take a small
vertical stitch from B to C making sure that the working thread forms a
reversed “s” shape around the needle as shown in Fig 1. Take a small tying
stitch over the loop at D and bring the thread out at E in preparation to for the If you work two rows of stitches with the knotted edges close together you
next stitch, Fig 2. Repeat along the line. Fig 3. can form a fishbone pattern. Tighten each knot before proceeding with the
next stitch. This is good for curved shapes - with the knots to the inside or
the outside.
This stitch is useful and ornamental for filling in shapes of leaves and petals
of flowers. It is worked in the same way as Romanian stitch but the small
tying stitches are set at regular intervals over the laid thread to form pattern
BLANKET STITCH AND BUTTONHOLE STITCH
lines across the shape. The tying stitches should be pulled tight, leaving the
These stitches are worked in the same way the difference being that in
laid thread slightly loose between. We have used a contrasting coloured
buttonhole stitch the stitches are worked very close together. Bring the thread
thread for the tying stitches for ease of illustration, but you could use a
out on the lower line, insert the needle in position in the upper line, taking a
matching thread.
straight downward stitch with the thread under the needle- point. Pull up the
stitch to form a loop and repeat. This stitch may also be worked on evenweave
fabric.

BRAID STITCH
This stitch is ideal for working as a border. Work the stitches close together,
using a thick thread such as a pearl cotton, for best effect.

BULLION KNOT
Pick up a back stitch, the size of the bullion knot required, bringing the
needle right through the fabric. Twist the thread round the needle point as
many times as required to equal the space of the back stitch. Hold your
other thumb on the coiled thread and pull the needle through, still holding
BROAD STEM STITCH
the coiled thread, turn the needle back to the point it was inserted and insert
This stitch is worked in two journeys and consists of two vertical rows of
in the same place. Pull thread through until bullion knot lies flat.
diagonal straight stitches arranged to form 'v' shapes. A row of back stitch is
then worked between the two rows for extra definition.

BUTTERFLY CHAIN STITCH


This stitch is worked in two sections. First work the foundation row of groups
of three vertical straight stitches. The spaces between the groups of stitches
should be about the same width as the area covered by the three stitches.
Next bunch together each group of stitches with a twisted chain stitch. This
BULLION ROSE stitch can be worked in two different threads and/or colours.
Each line on the diagram (Fig. 1) shows the position of one bullion knot.

Click here to find out how to work a single bullion knot. The finished
result (Fig. 2) should look like a rose bud.

BUTTONHOLE BARS
Make a row of running stitches between the lines of the cutwork design as
instructed in the pattern. Where a single line bar occurs take a thread across
the space and back again, securing with a small stitch. Buttonhole stitch
closely over the loose threads without picking up any of the fabric.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS
Work two foundation loops next to each other as shown. Work a series of
buttonhole stitches closely together to cover the loop. This works best using a
firm thread.

BYZANTINE STITCH
This is a canvaswork stitch worked diagonally over 4 (or more) vertical and
horizontal threads.
BOKHARA COUCHING (variation)
Fig 1. Bring the thread through at A and down at B 4 threads up and 4 threads CEYLON STITCH
to the right. Bring the needle up at C, which is 1 thread to the left of A. Make a long straight stitch across the top of your area to be filled. Then
Fig 2. Continue working in sequence – C-D, E-F, G-H, I-J, K-L. Then bring the beginning at the left-hand side, bring your needle up through the fabric and
thread through at M, 1 thread up from K, and down at N, 1 thread up from L. work a series of loops over the straight stitch without picking up the fabric.
Fig 3. Continue working the second step as shown. When the row is complete, push your needle down through the fabric and up
Fig 4. The diagram shows how rows of this stitch fit together. at the left-hand side again to begin another row. This time there's no need
to work a straight stitch - just work loops into the loops above. Continue in
this way until the shape is filled.

CHAIN STITCH
Bring the thread out at the top of the line and hold down with left thumb.
Insert the needle where it last emerged and bring the point out a short
distance away. Pull the thread through, keeping the working thread under
the needle point.

CABLE CHAIN STITCH


Work in the same way as for chain stitch but twist the thread around the needle
after each stitch. This will give you a link between each of your stitches. It can
be worked as a free-style stitch (Fig. 1) or on counted work (Fig. 2).

CHEVRON STITCH (canvas)


Starting at the diagonal, work a straight stitch inserting the needle 10
threads up and 2 threads to the right. Bring the needle out 2 threads to the
left and insert 4 threads to the right. Bring out 2 threads to the left then
insert 10 threads down and 2 threads to the right. Carry on in this way
following our numbered diagram.

CABLE STITCH
Cable stitch creates a line of stitching that
looks like a cable or rope.
Working from left to right, start by
bringing the thread through on the line.
Insert the needle a little to the right on the
line bringing the needle back up at the
midpoint of the stitch and keeping the
thread below the needle. Work another
stitch, this time bringing the needle back up at the end of the previous stitch
and keeping the thread above the needle as shown. CHEVRON STITCH (free style)
Continue in this way, alternating the position of the thread to create a cable
Bring your thread through on the lower line beside the letter A. Insert needle
effect.
to the right, forming a small stitch then bring your needle out a little to the
left, approximately halfway along the stitch just made. Now insert needle on
the upper line to the right of your lower stitch, and make a small stitch to
the left. Insert the needle to the right and again take a small stitch to the
left (see B). Continue working in this way

CLOUD STITCH
This filling stitch requires several rows of small vertical stitches in an
CASHMERE STITCH alternating pattern as in Fig. 1. With a tapestry needle, weave a contrasting
Cashmere stitch consists of a series of groups of three diagonal stitches which thread in and out of the stitches, backwards and forwards in rows without
form slanting rows. The stitching usually starts in the top left-hand corner of piercing the fabric, as in Fig. 2.
the area and the first row is worked downwards to the bottom right-hand
corner. The second row is then worked upwards parallel to the first, the third
downwards, and so on.

COIL FILLING STITCH


This filling stitch is worked from right to left. Three satin stitches are worked
over 4 horizontal threads and between 2 vertical threads leaving 4 threads
between each coil. Make a small stitch on the wrong side into the last group
of stitches to secure the thread before commencing the next row.
Fig. 1 - shows the first row worked and the fabric turned round with the
needle in position for the next row. Continue working in this way until the
shape is filled. Fig. 2 - shows three rows of stitching worked and illustrated
the alternating position of the coils in each row. All stitches must be pulled
firmly..
COLONIAL KNOT CROSS AND TWIST STITCH
Bring the needle through the back of the fabric to the front, just left of the point This stitch is also known as Moss Stitch. Work a basic cross stitch first. The
where the knot is to be made. Hold the embroidery thread lightly between your longer vertical stitch should only pierce fabric at the top and bottom. The
thumb and forefinger. Push the needle under the thread from left to right, then twisted stitch in the centre should be worked around the cross stitch threads
twist the thread over and under the point of the needle to form a figure of but should not pick up the background fabric.
eight. Insert the needle through the fabric to the right of where the needle first
emerged, pulling the needle and thread firmly to the back of the fabric and
tightening as for a french knot.

CORAL STITCH
Bring the thread out at the right end of the line, lay the thread along the line of
the design and hold it down with the left thumb. Take a small stitch under the
line and the thread and pull through, bringing the needle over the lower thread CROSS BUTTONHOLE STITCH
as in diagram. This is a simple variation of Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch. Use it as an edge
stitch or as a line stitch. It would also make a pretty filling stitch. It is
worked in pairs of buttonhole stitches, worked at an angle as shown, so that
they cross each other. If the stitches are worked quite close together and
worked row on row, a pretty trellis grid pattern is created.

CORD STITCH
This stitch can be used to join two pieces of fabric. Place the fabrics together,
with wrong sides facing. You may find it easier to press raw edges to the back
and tack the two fabrics together. The top diagram shows how to begin
stitching. Continue working as shown in the second diagram. When complete, CROSS STITCH
press on the wrong side. Bring the thread through at the lower right-hand side, insert the needle 1
block up and 1 block to the left and bring out 1 block down, thus forming a
half cross, continue in this way to the end of the row. Complete the upper
half of the cross as shown. Cross stitch may be worked either from right to
left or left to right, but it is important that the upper half of all crosses
should lie in the same direction.

COUCHING
Couching or couched work is a technique in which a thread is laid along the
design line and is held in place with stitches worked with a second thread. The
second thread is sometimes in a contrasting colour. The tying stitch should lie
at right angles to the laid thread.
Fi. 1. Bring the thread through at A and lay it along the line of the design.
Fig. 2. Hold the thread in position with the thumb and with another thread in CROSSED CORNERS CUSHION STITCH
the needle, bring the thread through at B and insert it at C, to form a small Satin stitch squares are worked over 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 3, then
straight stitch, or tying stitch, across the laid thread. 2, then 1 intersections, sloping from right to left. Then, half the square is
Fig. 3. Bring the thread through at D and insert the needle at E. Continue overstitched in the opposite direction. The next block is worked in the same
working in this way. way but with the stitches sloping the opposite way.
Fig. 4. Shows the finished effect with the laid thread tied down at regular
intervals.

CRETAN STITCH
Bring needle through centrally at left-hand side, taking a small stitch on lower
line, needle pointing inwards and with thread under the needle- point, as shown
at A. Take a stitch on upper line, thread under needle as shown at B. Continue
in this way until shape is filled.

DAISY STITCH OR DETACHED CHAIN STITCH


Work in the same way as chain stitch (A), but fasten each loop at the foot with under your thumb while taking the needle at D to remerge at E directly
a small stitch (B). This stitch may be worked singly or in groups to form flower below, catching the loop of the thread under the needle. Pull the thread
petals. through and secure the loop by taking the needle through again at E. (As
you would for a detached chain stitch)

DARNED WHEEL FILLING STITCH


Begin with Satin Stitch blocks, followed by cutting and removal of threads
(shown by blank areas on the chart). Work four Overcast Bars, then four
Twisted Bars before commencing the Ribbed Wheel. Bring the needle out
through one of the four holes surrounding the central fabric square. The first
stitch is made by passing the needle, in a clockwise direction, under one bar or
"spoke" of the wheel, then over tne next, under the next and so on, over and
under alternate bars until the area is as filled as you require. This version is
sometimes known as Snowflake Star and can be Stitched using only Twisted
Bars for the "spokes".

DARNING FILLING STITCH


Work a series of running stitches in equally-spaced parallel lines with the
stitches forming an alternating pattern as shown in the diagram.

DARNING STITCH
This stitch is used on plain and evenweave fabrics. It is a variation on running
stitch but the stitches and spaces are not even in length. Here the surface
stitches are longer and only a tiny amount of fabric is picked up by the needle.
Many different patterns can be created by varying the arrangement of rows of
stitches. Here a simple brick pattern is illustrated.

DIAGONAL KNOTTED STITCH


Each triangle in diagram 1 represents one stitch. Following diagram 2, take
thread down at A (leaving 3 cm tail), bring out at C, take back down at B,
then bring back out at A. This completes one stitch. Continue working
DETACHED BUTTONHOLE STITCH diagonally, working from bottom right to top left in rows, leaving a loop
Come up through the material at A and down through the material at B (Fig. 1) between end of last stitch and beginning of the next stitch (Diagram3). After
making a horizonal straight stitch across the area to be covered (for a firmer all the rows have been worked, cut the long loops and trim ends to size. This
base work 2 horizonal stitches). Do not pull the stitch too tightly. Bring the stitch is tricky to master as there is a lot of thread going in and out of each
needle out at C and buttonhole stitch closely over the loose thread without hole. The stitching needs to be as dense as possible so do not worry if the
picking up any of the fabric (Fig. 2). Every following row of stitches is worked canvas distorts slightly.
into the loops of the previous row. Work alternately from side to side. Shaping
is creating by increasing or decreasing stitches at the end of each row.

DIAGONAL RAISED
BAND STITCH
This is a pulled-work
stitch, so pull the thread
firmly when stitching.
This will result in "holes" appearing in the
design which form part of the pattern. Work the upright cross stitches
diagonally as shown.

DETACHED OPEN CHAIN STITCH


This stitch is worked in the same way as detached chain stitch, but this version
has two tying stitches which gives the "petal" an open appearance.

DIAGONAL SATIN STITCH BLOCKS


Bring the thread through at the top left of the square and work from A to B
over 1 diagonal intersection of the canvas. Bring the thread through at C
DETACHED WHEATEAR STITCH and work from C to D over 2 diagonal intersections. E to F is worked over
Bring the thread through at A, Take the needle down at B and through at C three intersections, G to H over four. Complete I to J, K to L and M to N as
(almost like making a fly stitch). Pull the thread through and hold the thread
shown. When adjacent squares and rows are worked in the opposite direction,
this becomes Cushion Stitch.

DOUBLE
CROSS STITCH
Fig. 1 - work a single cross stitch then bring the needle out four threads
down and two threads to the left.
DIAGONAL TENT STITCH Fig. 2 - insert the needle four threads up and bring out two threads to the
Bring the thread out at the left-hand side and work a stitch diagonally upwards left and two threads down.
and to the right over one canvas thread intersection, pass the needle vertically Fig. 3 - insert the needle four threads to the right and bring out two threads
downwards behind two horizontal canvas threads and bring through in down and four threads to the left in readiness to commence the next stitch,
readiness for the next stitch and continue as before. This stitch is particularly or finish off at the back for a single double cross stitch.
useful for filling in large areas as this method is less likely to distort the canvas.

DOUBLE FEATHER STITCH


A variation of feather stitch this is worked in a zig-zag and downward
direction. Two (or more) stitches are made alternately to the left and right of
the centre, as shown.

DIAMOND EYELET
Fig 1. - bring the needle through at A, insert it at B (4 threads down) and bring
it out again at C (3 threads up and 1 thread to the left).
Fig. 2 - Insert the needle again at B (3 threads down and 1 thread to the right)
and bring it out at D (2 threads up and 2 threads to the left).
Fig. 3 - Insert the needle at B (2 threads down and 2 threads to the right) and
bring out at E (1 thread up and 3 threads to the left).
Fig. 4 - Insert the needle at B (1 thread down and 3 threads to the right) and
bring out at F (4 threads to the left).
Fig. 5 - Continue working in this sequence to complete a diamond eyelet.

DOUBLE HERRINGBONE STITCH


Using the first colour, bring the needle out on the lower line at the left side
and insert on the upper line a little to the right, taking a small stitch to the
left with the thread below the needle. Next insert the needle on the lower
line a little to the right and take a small stitch to the left with the thread
above the needle. Introduce the second colour by working in the same way
in between the stitches already worked.

DIAMOND LEVIATÁN
Come out at one, enter at two, come out at three, enter at four and so on until
the complete stitch has been worked.
DOUBLE KNOT STITCH
This stitch is also known as Palestrina stitch. Bring the thread through at A.
Take a small stitch across the line at B. Pass the needle downwards under
the surface stitch just made, without piercing the fabric, as at C. With the
thread under the needle, pass the needle again under the first stitch at D.
Pull the thread through to form a knot. The knots should be spaced evenly
and closely to obtain a beaded effect.

DIAMOND RHODES STITCH


When the Rhodes Stitch is worked over a diamond rather than a square begin
by bringing the thread out at letter A, in at B, out at C and continue round the
diamond shape in this way until complete or the desired shape is achieved.

DOUBLE LEVIATHAN STITCH


Double leviathan is worked over four threads in each direction and is actually
a succession of different crosses on top of one another, so that in the end,
every hole around the square is filled. It may be worked with either the
straight or the corner-to-corner cross on top. Care must be taken when
working several double leviathan stitches together to work all the same
crosses on top, unless a different regular pattern has been decided upon.
This makes an extremely high, hard stitch and is most useful in patterned
work as a contrast to flatter stitches. As it is worked over four threads it can
only be satisfactorily fitted into spaces in which the canvas threads are
divisible by four.
DIAMOND STAR STITCH
A diamond star is made up of eight stitches, each going through the same
central hole. Four of the stitches are slightly longer than the rest, so count
carefully when working this stitch

DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH DOUBLE OR ITALIAN HEMSTITCH


Bring the needle up at 1, down at 2 and up at 3, Fig. A - bring the thread out four (or required number) loose threads to the
keeping the thread under the needle as shown. Take the needle down at 1 and left in the top band of drawn threads; pass the needle behind the four
up at 4, again keeping the thread under the needle. Continue in this way threads, bringing it out where the thread first emerged.
working one stitch on the right and one on the left alternately. Fig. B - pass the needle down over the fabric and under four (or required
number) loose threads in the lower band of drawn threads; pass the needle
over the same four threads and under the fabric, bringing it out four threads
to the left in the top band of drawn threads. These two movements are worked
throughout. The free edges of the drawn thread spaces can be hemstitched in
the usual way.

ENCROACHING GOBELIN STITCH


This stitch consists of horizontal rows of diagonal satin stitch. The second
DOUBLE-SIDED CROSS STITCH row overlaps the first row by one fabric thread. Continue working in rows
until your shape is filled.

This stitch is also known as marking stitch or brave stitch. It should be used on
fabrics where both sides will be on view. Each row is worked in four journeys.
At the end of the first journey and the beginning of the fourth extra half
diagonals are worked. If it is necessary, work over an existing cross stitch to
get to a continuation point to allow you to keep the stitch identical on both
sides. Try to do this as neatly as possible as it will show! Take care to secure
the thread ends when beginning and ending this embroidery under an existing
stitch.

ENCROACHING SATIN STITCH


Work a row of closely spaced satin stitch. The top of each stitch in the
second row should fall between the base of two stitches on the first row.
Continue in this way on subsequent rows until your shape is filled.

DOVE'S EYE FILLING STITCH


This stitch is composed of four looped
stitches, one on each side of the space
left by the cut fabric threads. The stitches
are taken under the central stitch with the
thread under the needle. To complete the
last loop, pass the needle under the
commencing stitch and insert into the ERMINE STITCH
fabric at the other side of the central stitch.
Work a long stitch, then work the larger cross stitch followed by the smaller
cross stitch below. These can be worked in a combination of colours or one
colour as required

DUTCH STITCH
Work the elongated cross stitch first, then work the single vertical stitch. The EYE STITCH
star shapes can be worked over a large area and should fit together as shown Eye stitch is primarily a canvas stitch used on single canvas but it can also
here be successfully worked on an evenweave fabric, providing that a fine thread
is used. A filling stitch, it makes a regular, geometric pattern of square
blocks, which can be worked in two or more colours. Each block covers eight
vertical and eight horizontal canvas threads and consists of sixteen straight
stitches of graduated lengths, radiating from the same central point. Around
the outside of each square, the stitches are drawn through alternate holes,
leaving two canvas threads unworked.

EDELWEISS STITCH
Work the first part of this stitch as for Whipped Spiders Web Stitch, working the
web halfway across the bars (fig.1).
Pass the thread up through the gap between the last two rings of the web, over
the last ring of the web, under the top bar and come up to the right of the top
bar. Bring thread over the top bar and bring needle up through gap between FAGGOTING
last two rings of web as before. Continue weaving in this way until you reach This stitch is also known as twisted insertion stitch. Stitch alternatively into
the top of the bar. each edge of the fabric, catching a loop of thread as shown. The finished
Work the other seven "petals" in the same way. stitches form a decorative zig-zag effect.

ELONGATED
CROSS STITCH
For the upright cross, bring the
needle up at the left-hand side FANCY HERRINGBONE STITCH
and insert the needle two
threads down and one thread to the left, so forming This stitch is worked in three separate sections. First work a row of ordinary
half a cross. Bring the needle up one thread to the right and down two threads
up and one thread to the left. A complete cross has been formed (Fig. 1).
Bring the thread up two threads down and one thread to the left. Complete the
herringbone stitches. An upright cross
elongated cross stitch as shown. For a horizontal cross, bring the needle up at
the left-hand side and insert the needle one thread down and two threads to stitch is then worked over the top and bottom cross of the herringbone,
the left. Complete as shown in the diagram. (Fig. 2). with the horizontal bar of the cross worked over the top of the vertical one.
Then interlace the horizontal bars as shown without piercing the fabric. Use
a tapestry needle for this which also helps to avoid splitting threads. This
stitch can be worked with a single colour or in a selection of colours and Continue to form the pattern as shown.
threads. If working a second row, place the stitches 6 threads below the first row. For
pulled work, pull the stitches tight for a lacy effect.

FISHBONE STITCH
This stitch is useful for filling small shapes. Bring the thread through at A
and make a small straight stitch along the centre line of the shape. Bring the
thread through again at B and make a sloping stitch across the central line
at the base of first stitch. Bring the thread through at C and make a similar
sloping stitch to overlap the previous stitch. Continue working alternately on
each side until the shape is filled.
FEATHER STITCH
Fig. A - bring the needle out at the top centre, hold the thread down with the
left thumb, insert the needle a little to the right on the same level and take a
small stitch down to the centre, keeping the thread under the needle point.
Next, insert the needle a little to the left on the same level and take a stitch to
the centre, keeping the thread under the needle point. Work these two
movements alternately.
Fig. B - shows Double Feather Stitch, in which two stitches are taken to the
right and left alternately.

FLORENTINE STITCH

This stitch is used for working zig-zag patterns known as Florentine work. It
is generally used to fill a large area and is worked in two or more rows of
different colours forming a wave pattern. The size of the wave may vary,
depending upon the number of stitches or the number of threads over which
the stitches are worked. Fig. 1 shows the method of working a single row of
stitches. Fig. 2 shows the finished effect when using three colours.
FEATHERED CHAIN STITCH

chain
This creates a pretty zig-zag line. The stitch is made up of

stitches and is worked in a downwards direction, worked alternately to


the left and to the right on a slant. These are then connected by straight
diagonal stitches as shown.

FLY STITCH
Bring your needle through at the top left, hold it down with the left thumb,
insert the needle into the right at the same level, a small distance from
where the thread first emerged and make a small downward stitch with the
thread below the needle. Pull through and insert the needle again below the
FERN STITCH stitch at centre (A) and bring in through in position for the next stitch. This
Also known as Fern Leaf Stitch, Fern stitch is a simple line stitch which can be stitch may be worked singly or in rows horizontally (A) or vertically (B).
used to stitch leaf veins or delicate foliage sprays. The stitch consists of three
straight stitches of equal length, worked at angles to each other and sharing
the same base hole. Groups of stitches can be arranged to form a line. Work a
straight stitch, then two side stitches. Carry on in this way to make a line of
stitches. You can vary the length of stitches when working on a curve.

FOUR-SIDED STITCH
This stitch produces a close textured effect and is used in pulled work. Fig. 1
Bring the thread through at A and down at B the required number of threads
up (see your working chart), and through at C the required number of
threads down and to the left as shown. Fig. 2 Insert the needle at A bringing
it out at D diagonally opposite. Fig. 3 Insert the needle at B and out at C.
Fig. 4 Insert the needle at D, thus completing the square. Fig. 5 Shows the
completed sequence of working. Remember to pull all stitches firmly.

FIR STITCH
Work carefully following the sequence of numbers on the diagram. The three-
dimensional effect is achieved by using the hole for the top part of the leaf five
times. To finish, work a vertical stitch as shown.

FESTOON FILLING STITCH


Bring the needle through at A. Take it FRENCH KNOT BORDER STITCH
down at B (2 threads to the right) Each stitch consists of a fly stitch loop with a French knot instead of a
making a back stitch. Bring the needle straight stitch worked to anchor it. The stitches are placed close together to
through at C (2 threads down and 2 threads to the left.) form a row and the rows are worked horizontally, from left to right, in one
Make the second stitch between C and A, with the needle emerging at D (2 journey.
threads down and 2 threads to the left) ready to make the third backstitch from
D to C.
FRENCH KNOTS
Bring the thread out at the required position, hold the thread down with the left
thumb and encircle the thread twice with the needle as at A. Still holding the
thread firmly, twist the needle back to the starting point and insert it close to
where the thread first emerged (see arrow). Pull thread through to the back
and secure for a single french knot or pass on to the position of the next stitch
as at B.

GREEK CROSS FILLING STITCH


Wrap two fabric threads working towards the centre of the motif. To work
the next bar and the filling, take the thread under the centre and up
between the next 4 fabric threads to be worked. Fig. 1.
Pull the first stitch firmly to tighten it then weave in a figure of eight pattern,
pulling quite tightly at first, then gradually loosening off to make a fan
shape. Fig. 2. Count the number of stitches so that you can repeat for each
GATHERED BUD motif.
For each bud required, cut a length of ribbon measuring about 8 cm. Bring the Finish wrapping the fabric threads of the second bar as shown.
needle, threaded with a matching stranded cotton, through the fabric at the To move on to the next section, take the needle under the next set of
required position. Gather the ribbon by working a running stitch along the threads to come up on the outer edge, Fig. 3. And work the corner as
length of the ribbon, zig-zagging from side to side, each stitch being 2 cm before.
apart. Turn the needle back and insert it through the start of the ribbon and Work this way in each quadrant until the motif is complete.
into the fabric where the thread first emerged. Pull the thread through to the
back of the fabric and the ribbon will bunch to create a bud.

GREEK CROSS
VARIATION
This stitch is used in
Hardanger embroidery.
GERMAN KNOTTED BUTTONHOLE STITCH Before working this stitch,
Make a standard buttonhole stitch by bringing the thread out at A, inserting the the satin stitch areas must
needle at B and bringing it out at C, keeping the thread under the needle. Work be completed and the
the second buttonhole stitch adjacent then pass the needle under the thread of relevant fabric threads cut and removed. Fig. 1 Working
both stitches as shown. Bring the thread round, then insert the needle at F, with two sets of fabric threads, one at right angles to
ready to make the first buttonhole stitch of the next group, F-G. the other, work an Overcast Bar over half the threads of
one group as shown. Work this bar at the nearest
corner to be turned. When complete, work a second Overcast Bar over the
remaining threads of this group ending at the corner point as shown.
Fig. 2 The second stage is formed by working a Woven Bar over the last
Overcast Bar and half of the fabric threads of the next group. As you work,
the two groups of fabric threads which radiate out from the corner point will
form small arches. Stop working this Woven Bar halfway along the fabric
threads.
Fig 3 Once the Woven Bar section has been completed, cover the remaining
section of the group of fabric threads with an Overcast Bar. The remaining
fabric threads of this group can then be covered with an Overcast Bar or be
GOBELIN STITCH combined with the next set of fabric threads to form another Greek Cross
This basic stitch is usually worked across one vertical and two horizontal canvas Filling Stitch
threads and should look neat and steeply diagonal. It looks like an oversized
tent stitch and is worked in the same way giving a longer stitch on the back
than on the front. Gobelin is useful for stripes and has a marked ribbed effect.

GROS POINT
STITCH
Firstly work a tram line
from left to right (Fig. 1). Cover the
tram line with tent stitch, working
from right to left (Fig. 2).

GRANITOS STITCH
Begin by bringing the thread through at A and down at B.
Come through at A again, using the same hole as before and, keeping the
working thread to the left, go down at B, again through the same hole as
before. The second stitch should lie to the left of the first stitch.
Work the next stitch in the same way, this time keeping the working thread to
the right. This stitch should lie to the right of the previous two stitches.
Work a fourth stitch in the same way, positioning it to the left of all previous
stitches.
Depending on the effect required, further stitches can be worked alternately to
the right and left. Remember, all stitches should be worked through the same
two holes in the fabric.

HALF CROSS STITCH


Bring the needle through at A and insert the needle diagonally upwards after
one canvas thread intersection. Bring the needle through at C, one thread
below. Continue in this way across the row. On the second row, the needle is
passed vertically upwards to complete the stitch as shown
HALF DIAMOND EYELET STITCH
A variation of Eye Stitch, the diamond shape covers ten vertical threads and
five horizontal threads. Begin stitching at letter A in Fig. 1, going in at B after
each letter in turn, Fig. 2. Continue the second half of the diamond by coming
out at G, in at B and so on until the shape in Fig. 3 is achieved

HOUNDSTOOTH STITCH
This can be used on double or single canvas and needs a fairly thick thread
HALF DIAMOND RHODES STITCH to give good coverage. The squares are worked over four canvas threads.
The working method is the same whatever the number of fabric threads making Work a diagonal straight stitch from the bottom left-hand corner to the top
up the diamond (refer to chart for the number of fabric threads Half Diamond right-hand corner. Work an interlocking loop as shown in each of the two
Rhodes Stitch is worked over). Fig.1 – The dots indicate where the thread is remaining corners, encircling the diagonal stitch. Work the squares in
brought through to the front of the fabric and then taken to the back. Fig.2 – horizontal rows. If filling a large area, place the next row of squares directly
Bring the thread through at A, insert the needle at B, bring through at C, insert underneath the first.
at D, bring through at E, insert at F. Fig.3 – Continue in this way following the
diagrams working the stitches in alphabetical order: G-H, I-J, K-L, M-N, with
each stitch overlapping the previous stitch. HUNGARIAN
STITCH
Work sets of
straight stitches
over 2, 4 and 2
threads, leaving 2
vertical threads in
between each set.
Work the second
row in the same
way, positioning the
blocks to fit into the gaps left in the previous row.
Continue to build up the pattern in this way.

HEMSTITCH
Bring the working thread out two fabric threads down from the drawn threads
at the right-hand side. Pass the needle behind four loose threads, then insert
the needle behind the same four threads, bringing the needle out two threads
down in readiness for the next stitch. The number of threads may be varied to
suit the fabric or design

HERRINGBONE STITCH
Bring the needle out on the lower line at the left-hand side and insert it on the
upper line a little to the right, taking a small stitch to the left, with the thread
below the needle. Next, insert the needle on the lower line a little to the right INTERLACED BAND
and take a small stitch to the left with the thread above the needle. These two of a stitch on one line is directly in line with the start of a stitch on the other.
movements are worked throughout. For the best effect the fabric lifted by the With a matching or contrasting thread, follow the diagram and lace though
needle and the spaces in between should be of equal size. every stitch

HOLBEIN STITCH
Firstly work a row of evenly-spaced running stitches. When this is complete,
work your way back along the line of stitching filling in the gaps to give a
continuous line of stitching. This stitch should look identical on both sides of the
fabric.

INTERLACED CROSS STITCH VARIATION


Firstly work a large cross stitch over the required number of threads as
shown in A. Then work two horizontal and two vertical stitches, making sure
they lie as shown in B.
Finally, work shorter stitches on the diagonal as shown in C.

INTERLACED DOUBLE
HERRINGBONE STITCH
Work a row of double
herringbone stitch first.
Lace this with a
HONEYCOMB FILLING STITCH contrasting colour of
This filling stitch is worked from the top downwards. Fig. 1 - bring the thread thread, working over and
out at the arrow. Insert the needle at A (2 threads to the right) and bring out at under the top half of the
B (2 threads down), insert again at A and bring out at B, insert at C (2 threads stitch as shown, going from
to the left) and bring out at D (2 threads down), insert again at C and bring out left to right. Complete the
at D. Continue in this way for the required length. Turn the fabric round for the lacing on the bottom half of
next and each following row and work in the same way. Fig. 2 - shows the work the stitch in the same way,
turned ready for the second row. Fig. 3 - shows two rows of stitching and how going from right to left.
they form a filling. All stitches must be pulled firmly.
INTERLACED HEMSTITCH JAPANESE DARNING STITCH
Work ladder hemstitch first. Fasten a long thread at the right-hand side Spaced horizontal rows of ordinary darning stitch are worked over the shape
centrally at the loose threads on the wrong side of work. Fig A. - pass the with the stitches arranged alternately on every row. The thread is then
working thread across the front of two groups of threads and insert the needle brought through to the right of the second row to link the two rows with
from left to right under the second group. Fig. B. - twist the second group over slanting stitches. This process is repeated over the entire shape; the linking
the first group by inserting the needle under the first group from right to left. rows should be worked from right to left. Care must be taken to make sure
Pull thread through. The interlaced thread should be pulled firmly to lie in that the needle enters and emerges from the fabric through the holes made
position through the centre of the twisted groups. by the darning stitches; in this way the stitches are kept perfectly regular.

INTERLACED
HEMSTITCH WITH BEADS
This stitch is worked in two parts. Firstly you must work a hemstitch border
KLOSTER BLOCKS
along both edges of your drawn-thread panel. To do this, bring the working
Kloster blocks normally consist of five satin stitches worked over four fabric
thread out 2 threads down from the space of drawn threads, pass the needle
threads, bringing the needle up at the lower edge each time. Bring the
behind and round 4 loose vertical threads, bringing the needle out 2 threads
needle up at the lower right-hand corner ready to work the next block (Fig.
down. Continue in this way along both edges of the drawn-thread band.
1). Work the second block at right angles to the first, and the third block at
right angles to the second (Fig. 2). Continue to work the pattern in a step
formation.

KNITTING STITCH
Working upwards, stitch a row of slanting straight stitches. Work the next
row of straight stitches downwards, slanting the stitches in the opposite
INTERLACING STITCH direction.
Work the foundation row of herringbone stitch. Work in two journeys so that
the stitches intertwine in a specific way. The last two crosses on the diagram
have been left so that the interlacing can be seen clearly. The first row is shown
in a medium tone on the diagram. In working the rows of herringbone for
interlacing the stitches are worked slightly differently. In the top stitch, the
needle is passed under the working thread in each case instead of over it. Close
attention must be paid to the alternate crossing of the threads when working
the second row.
Do not work this foundation row tightly as the interlacing thread tends to draw
the stitching together.
When the rows of herringbone are complete bring the thread to the surface and
follow the diagram. At the end of the row, lace the thread around the last cross
in the centre and work back in a similar way along the lower half of the
foundation row. KNOTTED STAR LACE FILLING STITCH
The first part of this stitch is worked in vertical, single rows from the bottom,
to the top, of the shape to be filled. There are three kloster blocks in this
diagram that have rows of cut holes above them. Beginning at the left-hand
kloster block, bring the needle up to the left or right of the centre satin
stitch. Lay the thread vertically over the first cut hole and insert the needle
into the hole above it and bring it back through the first hole, keeping the
thread on the left of the needle. Now pass your needle from left to right
under the thread lying across the fabric threads between the two holes. Pull
ITALIAN HEM STITCH tight to draw the fabric threads together. Continue upwards in this way,
This stitch is used when there are two bands of drawn threads relatively close finishing off by taking you needle down through the kloster block at the top,
together. The stitch is worked in one journey and decorates both drawn thread again to the left or right of the centre satin stitch. Work in this way for the
bands. Follow diagram 1, then 2, and continue in that way until the band is remaining vertical rows. Turn your fabric through 90° and work vertical lines
complete. The outer edges of the bands can also be decorated using hem stitch. of stitching as before. These will lie at right angles to the previous lines of
stitching. Now you are ready to work diagonal lines of stitches across the cut
holes. Bring the needle up in any corner, lay the thread diagonally across
the first hole and take the needle down and up through the solid fabric
square between holes. Continue in this way until all the cut holes are
covered with one diagonal thread. Work the other diagonal in the same way,
but work a knot around the group of three threads lying across each hole
(see diagram for guidance).

JACQUARD STITCH
Rows of stitches are worked diagonally from upper left to lower right and each
row is completed before starting the next. The length of stitches alternates. In
one row the stitches are worked diagonally over 2 canvas thread intersections
and in the next row over 1 canvas thread intersection. Fig. 1 - work diagonal
straight stitches over 2 thread intersections as shown and follow the broken
lines and arrows for positioning stitches. Fig. 2 - the second row of diagonal
straight stitches is worked over 1 thread intersection. Fig. 3 - this shows the
effect of 6 rows of Jacquard Stitch.
. LONG TAILED FLY STITCH
LACED DOUBLE RUNNING STITCH This is worked in exactly the same way as fly stitch, but the tying (vertical)
running stitch.
This is a variation of Work a foundation of two rows of stitch is longer. Bring your needle through at the top left, hold it down with
the left thumb, insert the needle into the right at the same level, a small
evenly-spaced running stitches as shown, making sure that the stitches and the
distance from where the thread first emerged and make a small downward
spaces between them are all of an even length. Lace a second thread up and
stitch with the thread below the needle. Pull through and insert the needle
down the rows as shown. This stitch works well with a ribbon or a metallic
again below the stitch at centre and bring in through in position for the next
thread for the lacing. Use a tapestry needle to avoid piercing the fabric or
stitch. This stitch may be worked singly or in horizontal or vertical rows.
splitting the thread on the foundation row.

LACED RUNNING STITCH


Work the running stitch in the usual way. Thread your needle with a different
colour of thread and work the lace stitch through each running stitch, being LONG-LEGGED CROSS STITCH
careful not to pick up any of the fabric. This form of cross stitch is very easy to do. It is made up of a short diagonal
stitch and a long diagonal stitch. The long stitch should be worked over twice
as many threads as the short stitch.

LADDER HEMSTITCH
This stitch is worked in the same way as hemstitch, with the hemstitch being
worked along both edges of the space of drawn threads. Hemstitch and ladder
hemstitch may be worked on fine linen or evenweave linen.

LOOP STITCH VARIATION


Bring your ribbon up through the material at A, over your cable needle and
down through your material at B to form a loop (Fig. 1). Repeat this stitch to
form two loops side by side (Fig. 2). Slip the first loop off the cable needle
and work another loop over the cable needle (Fig. 3). Continue in this way in
a circular motion until you have made a flower shape (Fig. 4). Leave the last
loop on your cable needle until you have fastened off securely

LADDER STITCH
The first stitch should be at right angles to the seam and pierce both fabrics.
Take a small running stitch as shown, then take the thread down in the first
fabric. Repeat as shown along the length of the seam. The stitches should
almost be invisible.

LONG AND SHORT STITCH


This form of satin stitch is so named as all the stitches are of varying lengths. It
is often used to fill a shape which is too large or too irregular to be covered by
satin stitch. It is also used to achieve a shaded effect. In the first row the LONG TAILED FRENCH KNOTS
stitches are alternately long and short and closely follow the outline of the This stitch is also known as Pistil Stitch and is worked in exactly the same
shape. The stitches in the following rows are worked to achieve a smooth way as a french knot, but a "tail" is left on the top of the work prior to
appearance. The diagram shows how a shaded effect may be obtained. working the knot. It can be worked singularly or in groups as shown in fig.3.

MAIDENHAIR STITCH
This stitch is a variation of single feather stitch. It is worked downwards,
with groups of three stitches which are graduated, worked either side of a
central line as shown.

LONG SATIN STITCH


Satin stitches are laid down parallel to each other and are worked over the
number of threads of the pattern or of your choice.
MALTESE CROSS MOSAIC STITCH
This is worked in a similar way to Interlacing Stitch. Make sure the intertwining Diagonal Mosaic is worked over 1 then 2 canvas intersections and then
on the foundation row is worked accurately otherwise the interlacing cannot be repeated. The long stitch of one row fits against the short stitch of the
achieved. Bring the thread through at A and take a stitch from B to C. Carry the previous row, giving an interlocking effect.
thread from C to D and take a stitch from D to E. Continue in this way following
Fig. 1 until the foundation is complete. Fig. 2 shows the interlacing which
commences at F. Fig 3. shows the complete motif.

NEEDLEWEAVING (for petals and leaves)


Insert a large-headed pin, at the required position (tip of the petal) and then
bring the pin to the front of the fabric and immediately to the back to secure
the pin in place. Fig. 1 - Bring the thread through at A and insert at B, taking
MILANESE STITCH the thread round the back of the pin head and bring out at C. Fig. 2 - Take
The stitch is worked diagonally, over 1, then 2, then 3, then 4 canvas the thread around the back of the pin head for a second time and then insert
intersections, then repeated (see diagram). The longest stitch fits against the the needle under one vertical thread, over the middle one and under the
shortest stitch of the previous row. Work complete rows before going back to fill third one. Pull the thread through tightly. Continue weaving the needle in
in any odd shapes in your outline. and out of the vertical threads until they have all been covered. On
completion of the needle-weaving, take the thread to the back of the work
and secure.

NORWICH STITCH
MONTENEGRIN STITCH Although this stitch looks complicated to work, it is actually quite simple.
First, work a long-armed cross stitch. The longest stitch should cover twice the
Follow the numbered diagrams, remembering that you should bring your
number of threads of the shortest stitch. In our example, the long stitch is
needle up through your fabric on the odd numbers and down through your
worked over 8 threads, the shortest over 4 threads. Next, work a vertical stitch
fabric on the even numbers.
the same height as the long-armed cross stitch. Continue in this way working
rows of this stitch from left to right.
NUN'S STITCH
This is a good stitch for hemming
linen. It's made up of double stitches
and is very easy to work. As shown in
the diagrams, work one stitch then
another, bringing the needle out as
shown in readiness to work the next
set of stitches.
When complete, cut close to the open
edge of the stitches to form a neat
hem.

MOORISH STITCH
Used on double canvas. Usually worked in two colours of thread and can be
worked in a combination of wool and cotton threads. The stitch is worked
diagonally from the top left to the bottom right of the area, in alternate rows.
One row consists of groups of four graduated diagonal stitches, which forms
squares, and the other is made up of tiny diagonal stitches running in the same
direction as the preceding row.

MOSAIC FILLING STITCH


This stitch is usually used in pulled work. Fig. 1 - work four blocks of satin stitch
to form a square, with an equal number of stitches in each block and worked
over an equal number of threads. Bring the thread from the last stitch through
to the right hand corner of the inner square. Fig. 2 - work a four-sided stitch
within the satin stitch blocks, bringing the thread out at the starting point. Fig.
3 - work a cross stitch in the centre and pull tightly.

OBLIQUE LOOP FILLING STITCH


Bring the thread through the fabric in the centre of one of the solid fabric
squares as marked on the diagram with an arrow. Take the needle back
through the fabric at A and, leaving the thread fairly loose, bring the needle
back through the hole at B, looping it under the loose thread. Take another
stitch under the first loop, from C to D, thereby twisting the thread around the
first loop. This completes the first corner of the filling stitch. To form the next
side, take the needle through the fabric in the next corner E and repeat the
looping and twisting process. Repeat until all four sides of the stitch are
complete. Remember to take the thread around the beginning of the first
looped side to finish off the full stitch. Take the needle back to the wrong side
and fasten off at the starting point.

PEKIN KNOT (Chinese Knot)


Make a simple, loose loop around your needle and tighten after the needle
has entered the fabric, but before it has been completely pulled through.
While pulling the needle through the fabric, hold the loop down on the fabric
with your other thumb

OPEN FISHBONE STITCH


Bring the thread through at A and make a sloping stitch to B. Bring the thread
through again at C and make another sloping stitch to D. Bring the thread
through at E, continue in this way until the shape is filled. PEKINESE STITCH
Work back stitch in usual way, then interlace with a thread to tone or thread
of a different colour. The stitch is shown open in the diagram but the loops
should be pulled slightly when working.

OUTLINE STITCH
This stitch is very simple to work and resembles stem stitch. Keep the working
thread on the left.
PERSPECTIVE STITCH
Working from left to right, make a diagonal stitch two threads up and two to
the right (1-2). Place two similar stitches below the first (3-4 and 5-6). From
the holes where the first three stitches ended begin three more diagonal
stitches, this time down and to the right. Continue in this way across the
work creating three stripe chevrons pointing upwards. With a second colour
work a series of chevrons pointing downwards beginning with the first stitch
in the same hole as the previous first stitch (A-B) but working downwards.

OVERCAST BARS
This bar is used for hardanger and can also be used in drawn-thread
embroidery. To work the overcast bars, withdraw the number of threads
required from the fabric and separate the loose threads into bars by overcasting
firmly over these threads as many times as required to cover the group of
threads completely.

PIN STITCH
Fig. 1 - bring the thread out at the arrow, insert the needle at A (2 threads
down) and bring out at B (4 threads to the left), insert again at A and then
bring out again at B. Fig. 2 - insert the needle again at A and bring out at C
(2 threads up and 4 threads to the left). Continue in this way for the
required length. All stitches must be pulled firmly.

PAGODA CHEVRON STITCH


Bring the thread through at 1, down at 2, up at 3, down at 4 and up at 5.
Continue in this way to form a horizontal row of stitching.

PINWHEEL MILANESE STITCH


Follow the numbered diagram to complete the first part of the stitch. The
second "triangle" has more stitches than the first (Fig. 2). Again follow the
PARISIAN STITCH numbers for the position of the stitches. These two sets of stitches can be
This stitch can be worked either vertically or horizontally. The stitches are alternated as shown in Fig.3.
worked alternately over six horizontal threads then two horizontal threads, in a
straight line. For the second row, the short stitch is placed under the long stitch
and vice versa. For a smaller version, work over three and one threads.
PLAITED ALGERIAN STITCH three-quarter stitch as shown in Fig. 1, then add a quarter stitch in another
Fig. 1 - bring your thread through at your chosen point then down over two colour to complete the cross stitch.
canvas threads and across one horizontally then insert your needle and take
one horizontal stitch back under one canvas thread bringing it out ready for the
next stage. Fig. 2 - take your thread up over two intersections, across two
canvas threads then insert it before taking a horizontal stitch back under one
canvas thread bringing out ready to begin again at Fig. 1. Fig. 3 - this shows
the pattern build up with the stitch.

QUEEN STITCH
This is sometimes called roccoco
stitch and is a one version of many.
Said to have been invented by Mary
Queen of Scots this little cluster looks
a bit like a crown. Work a straight stitch,
as in 1 to 2. Catch in place with a
horizontal stitch as shown (3 to 4).
Repeat as in moves 5, 6, 7 and 8, to
PLAITED CROSS STITCH
complete the first side. Work two more
This stitch is made up of a cross stitch and four straight stitches. Work it in the
stitches to form a mirror image as in 9,
sequence shown ie. A-B, C-D etc. Note when working K to L you will have to
10, 11 and 12, and 13, 14, 15 and 16
weave under the stitch E to F as shown in the diagram.
to complete the stitch.

PORTUGESE STEM STITCH RAISED CHAIN BAND


Fig. A - commence as for ordinary stem stitch. Fig. B - pull the thread through
Work the required number of foundation bars which are fairly closely spaced
and pass the needle under the stitch just made, without entering the fabric. Fig.
horizontal straight stitches. Bring the thread through at A, then pass the
C - pass the needle under the same stitch below the first coil. Fig. D - make
needle upwards under the centre of the first bar and to the left of A. With
another stem stitch. Fig. E - pass the needle twice under the stitch just made
the thread under the needle, pass the needle downwards to the right of A
and under previous stitch. Fig. F. - a section showing the formation of the
and pull up the chain loop thus formed.
stitch.

PUNCH STITCH
Fig. 1 - work 2 straight stitches into the same place over 4 horizontal threads,
then bring the thread out 4 threads down and 4 threads to the left in readiness
for the next stitch. Work along the row for the required length. Turn the fabric
round for the next and each following row and work in the same way.
Fig. 2 - shows the squares completed by turning the fabric sideways and
working in the same way. All stitches must be pulled firmly. RAISED SATIN STITCH
Before working any embroidery in this area, draw a series of small
concentric shapes 1 mm inside the outline. Starting with smallest section in
the middle, fill the area with satin stitches, working across from edge to
edge as shown in the diagram, coming up at A going down at B, taking a
small stitch to come up at C and down at D. This forms a satin stitch on the
top but running stitch on the reverse. Work each consecutive layer at a
different angle over the top of the previous stitches until the shape is filled
and well padded. Finish with a row of satin stitch.

RAISED STEM STITCH BAND


Lay 2 x 6 strands of thread over the area of the stem to form a foundation.
Couch down this padding with a single strand of matching thread with a
uniform distance between each stitch. Each stitch should be at right angles
to the padding. Be careful not to pull these stitches too tightly. (Fig 1.)
Cover the foundation threads by working vertical rows of stem stitch over
the straight couching stitches using one strand. Work each row of stem
stitch in the same direction, taking the ends through to the back of the
work. (Fig 2.) Where possible, all stem stitch rows should share a common
PUNCH STITCH (for canvas) hole at the end of the band to give a neat finish. The stem stitch rows should
Fig. 1 - work two straight stitches into the same place over four threads, then
be worked as closely together as possible so that none of the foundation
bring the needle out four threads down and four threads to the left in readiness
shows through. Fasten of securely by overcasting the ends on the wrong
for the next stitch. Work along the row in this way. Turn the fabric for next and
side.
every successive row.
Fig. 2 - shows the squares completed by turning the fabric sideways and
working in the same way. All stitches must be pulled tightly.

QUARTER/THREE-QUARTER CROSS
STITCH
Fig. 1 - To work three-quarter stitch, stitch a half cross stitch in the usual way REVERSED CUSHION STITCH
then add a quarter stitch, bringing the needle down in the centre of the half Satin stitch squares are worked over 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 3, then
cross stitch already worked. Work the stitch according to the position of the 2, then 1 intersection, sloping from right to left. the next block is worked the
symbol on the chart. Fig. 2 - Where two symbols are given on the chart, work a same way, but with the stitches sloping from left to right.
REVERSED MOSAIC STITCH
Reversed Mosaic is worked over 1, then 2, then 1 canvas intersections and then
repeated. It makes a tiny square pattern, with the diagonal stitches running in
the opposite direction. Each square is completed before beginning the next one, RIBBON STITCH
working in horizontal rows across the desired shape and then back again. Bring the ribbon up through the fabric at A and lay it along the top of the
fabric in the desired direction of your stitch. When your stitch is the correct
length, pierce the ribbon with your needle and pull the ribbon through to the
back of the fabric.

REVERSED WAVE STITCH RICE STITCH


Bring the thread out at the arrow. Pass the needle over 2 loose threads to the
Work a diagonal cross stitch over 4 horizontal and 4 vertical canvas threads
left in the upper band of drawn threads and insert at A, bring out at B (4
(Fig. 1). Work small diagonal stitches at right angles over two canvas
threads down and 2 threads to the right), insert at C (4 loose threads to the
threads over the corners of each cross stitch as shown in Fig. 2. These small
left) and bring out at A (4 threads up and 2 threads to the right). Continue in
stitches can be worked in a contrasting thread of a different colour or
this way to the end of the row, finishing the upper edge with a stitch over 2
texture if preferred.
loose threads to balance with the beginning.

RHODES STITCH
This is an attractive raised filling stitch which covers a square of canvas with an
even number of threads. The working method is the same whatever the number
of canvas threads making up the square. Fig. 1 shows the constructions of a
Rhodes stitch over a square of 6 horizontal and 6 vertical threads. Bring the
thread through at A, insert the needle at B, bring through at C, insert at D,
bring through at E, insert at F. Continue in this way following the direction of
the arrows, each stitch overlapping the previous stitch until the square is filled.
Finish off with a small vertical straight stitch at centre taken through the layers
of thread and canvas as shown in Fig. 2. Make sure the vertical stitches are all
worked in the same direction for an even effect.

RIBBED SPIDER'S WEB STITCH


First make a foundation of an even number of spokes. We’ve used a double RINGED BACKSTITCH
cross stitch to give 8 spokes. (Fig. 1) Pass the thread under the four spokes Bring the thread through at A, insert it at B (two threads down) and bring it
without piercing the fabric and wrap the thread over and under the needle point out at C (4 threads up and two threads to the left) Fig 1.
as shown (Fig. 2). Pull up the thread to form a central knot. Insert the needle at A (2 threads down and 2 threads to the right) and bring
Pass the needle under two spokes and work a spiral of back stitch catching only it out at D (2 threads down and 4 threads to the left). Fig 2.
the spokes and without piercing the fabric (Fig. 3). Continue until the ring is Insert the needle at C (2 threads to the right), and bring it out at E (2
complete. Take the thread through to the back of the work and fasten off. threads downs and 4 threads to the left). Fig 3.
Insert the needle at D (2 threads up and 2 threads to the right) and bring it
down at F (4 threads down and 2 threads to the left), to complete the half
ring. Fig 4
Continue working half rings as shown. Fig 5.
Turn the work through 180º and complete Figs 1-5 to complete the rings.
For pulled work, remember to
pull

RIBBON ROSE
Commence with a fly stitch to the centre of a circle using a strand of cotton as
shown in Fig.1 then work two straight stitches into the centre of the circle, one
on each side of the fly stitch tail. this divides the circle into five equal sections
and the spokes for the foundation of the rose. Fasten off securely. Now, weave
over and under the spokes using the appropriate embroidery ribbon, as in Fig.2,
until the circle is filled. Do not arrange the ribbon, instead allow it to twist
naturally.
underneath, this gives a raised effect. Care must be taken to keep a good
edge. Do not make the stitches too long, otherwise they are liable to be
pulled out of position. You may find it easier to keep a good angle on your
stitches if you lightly mark a clear line on your fabric, using tailor's chalk or
a hard-leaded pencil.

ROCOCO STITCH
This stitch is made up of four vertical stitches, each one crossed with a small
stitch. The first and last stitches anchor the group in place as the small stitches
are worked over the vertical stitch and the canvas.
SATIN STITCH VARIATIONS (For Canvas)
Satin stitches are laid down parallel to each other. They can be placed
vertically, horizontally or diagonally, and worked over the number of threads
of your choosing.

ROMANIAN COUCHING
This form of couching is useful for filling in large spaces in which a flat indefinite
background is required. Bring the thread through on the left, carry the thread
across the space to be filled and take a small stitch on the right with the thread
above the needle (A). Take small stitches along the line at intervals, as in B and
C, to the end of the laid thread, emerging in position for the next stitch (D). SCOTTISH STITCH
Bring the thread through at the top left corner of the square to be worked
and work A-B over one intersection of thread. Bring thread through at C and
work C-D over 2 intersections of thread. E-F is worked over 3 intersections
and G-H over 4. Work I-J, K-L and M-N as shown. (Fig. 1.) Work three more
square as shown leaving one thread of canvas between squares. (Fig 2.)
Work tent stitches over 1 horizontal and 1 vertical thread all round the
squares as shown (Fig. 3.)

SEEDING
This simple filling stitch is composed of small straight stitches of equal
length placed at random over the surface.

ROSE STITCH
This stitch forms a rose-shape when complete. Work a french knot in the centre
and surround it by small straight stitches as shown

SHEAF STITCH
An attractive filling stitch consisting of five (or the number of your choosing)
vertical satin stitches tied across the centre with two horizontal overcasting
stitches. (The overcasting stitches are worked round the satin stitch; the
needle only entering the fabric to pass on to the next sheaf.) This will work
ROSETTE CHAIN STITCH on fabric or on canvas
Bring the needle up at A, down at B and up at C (Fig. 1). Slip your needle under
the ribbon or thread (Fig. 2). Work this stitch singly or in a circle (Fig. 3).

RUNNING STITCH SIENNESE STITCH


Pass the needle over and under the fabric, making the upper stitches of equal Work this stitch from left to right. Work a vertical straight stitch first. The
length. The under stitches should also be of equal length, but half the size or next stitch, on the right of it, should be looped around the first stitch. Carry
less of the upper stitches on in this way.

SINGLE OR RANDOM
CROSS STITCH
This stitch can be worked at
random, over as many
threads as the design
requires and also works well
on fabric for free-style
embroidery.
Fig. 1 Brig the needle
through at the arrow and inert the needle a A.
Bring the needle through at B
SATIN STITCH (For Free Style) Fig 2 Take the needle through at C.
Satin stitch is made up of straight stitches worked closely together across the This completes the single cross stitch.
shape, as shown in the diagram. FOR PADDED SATIN STITCH: If desired,
running stitch or chain stitch may be worked first to form a padding
SMYRNA CROSS STITCH
This stitch is also know as Leviathan Stitch, railway stitch and double cross
stitch. Work an ordinary cross stitch as in Fig. 1. Cover this cross stitch with an
upright cross stitch as shown in Fig. 2 and 3. STAB STITCH
Secure material to a backing fabric by bringing your needle up through the
backing fabric at A and down through the material at B. Continue in this way
right round the edge of the shape.

SORBELLO STITCH
This can be used as a filling stitch and also as a substitute for cross stitch. Make
a horizontal stitch at the top of the shape to be filled. The thread is then
brought through at the bottom left-hand corner, looped under and over the
horizontal stitch as shown in Fig. 1, and taken through the fabric at the bottom
right-hand corner (Fig. 2). The stitches can be worked close together to form a
line or fill a shape (Fig. 3) or used individually.

STAR EYELET STITCH


This is primarily a canvas stitch used on single canvas but it can also be
successfully worked on an evenweave fabric, providing that a fine thread is
used. A filling stitch, it makes a regular, geometric pattern of square blocks.
Each block consists of straight stitches of graduated lengths, radiating from
the same central point. Around the outside of each square, the stitches can
be drawn through alternate holes, leaving two canvas threads unworked, or
through every hole.

SPANISH KNOTTED FEATHER STITCH


Bring the thread through and hold down to the left with the left thumb. Take a
slanting stitch to the left through the fabric under the laid thread and pull
through with the needle point over the working thread as shown at A. Pass the
thread over to the right and back to the left to form a loop and hold down, then
take a slanting stitch to the right under the laid thread and pull through with
the needle over the working thread B. Take a stitch in the same way to the left
C. Repeat B and C to the end of the line, then fasten off with a small stitch as
shown at D.

STAR STITCH
SPIDER'S WEB STITCH Also known as Algerian Eye Stitch it consists of eight straight stitches all
Commence with a fly stitch to the centre of the circle as shown in A, then work worked in to the same central point, forming a star within a square.
two straight stitches, one on each side of the fly stitch tail. This divides the
circle into five sections and the 'spokes' form the foundation of the web. Weave
over and under the 'spokes', as at B, until the circle is filled.

STEM STITCH
Work from left to right, taking regular, small stitches along the line of the
design. The thread always emerges on the left side of the previous stitch.
This stitch is used for flower stems, outlines, etc. It can also be used as a
SPLIT STITCH filling, rows of stem stitch worked closely together within a shape until it is
Bring the thread through at A and make a small stitch over the line of the filled completely.
design, piercing the working thread with the needle as shown in the diagram. If
you are working this stitch using two strands of thread, work in the same way,
but instead of piercing the thread come up between two strands of thread. Split
stitch may be used as a filling where a fine, flat surface is required.

STEPPED AND THREADED RUNNING STITCH


This stitch is a variation of ordinary running stitch and is worked on a
foundation of two parallel rows of that stitch. The stitches are set alternately
on the second row. A second thread is then laced from row to row without
picking up the ground fabric. Use a blunt-ended tapestry needle for the
SQUARE FILET FILLING STITCH threading to avoid splitting the running stitches.
Secure the thread behind one of the corners surrounding the cut hole and,
working clockwise around the hole, take it back down through the fabric in the
next corner, leaving the thread fairly loose so that a loop is formed across the
side of the cut hole. Bring the needle back up through the hole, passing the
needle through the thread loop. Take the needle back down through the next
corner, again leaving the thread fairly loose to form a soft loop. Continue
around the hole in this way until the square is complete.
TÊTE DE BOEUF STITCH
This stitch is formed by two straight stitches with a loop tied at the bottom.
STRAIGHT GOBELIN STITCH It looks a bit like fly stitch and detached chain stitch.
There are two ways of working this stitch. For a close, hard-wearing effect, such Bring the thread through at A and make a short diagonal stitch to B. (Fig.
as for a cushion or chair seat, work a trammed stitch from left to right, then 1).
work straight stitches over the thread as shown. In the second method, the laid Bring the thread through at C and make another short diagonal stitch to D
thread is omitted. The effect is similar to the first but the stitch is not as as shown. (Fig. 2).
hardwearing. Bring the thread through at E between the two diagonal stitches and make a
loop, passing the thread under the needle as shown in Fig. 3 bringing the
needle through at F.
Make a tying stitch by taking the thread through at G. (Fig. 4). This stitch
can be worked in a row (Fig. 5) or randomly for a free-style filling stitch.

STRAIGHT SATIN STITCH (for canvas)


This stitch may be worked from right to left or left to right. The number of
threads over which the stitches are worked may vary, depending upon the
effect desired.

THORN STITCH
Fig. 1 - Lay a thread along the line from A to B. Bring the thread through at
C and insert down and to the left at D. Bring the thread through at E level
with C and insert it at F level with D.
Fig.2 - From F, bring the needle through at G, level with the crossed threads
and insert at H, below D.
Fig3 - Bring the thread through at I , level with the crossed threads and
STRAIGHT STITCH (Also known as Single Satin Stitch)
insert the needle at J making the second cross.
This is shown as single spaced stitches worked either in a regular or irregular
Fig. 4 - Continue in this way until the line is complete.
manner. Sometimes the stitches are of varying size. The stitches should be
We have shown a straight line, but A – B could lie along a curve.
neither too long nor too loose. This stitch may also be worked on evenweave
fabric.

TAILOR'S BUTTONHOLE STITCH


This is similar to ordinary buttonhole stitch but the knot gives it a stronger THREADED LACED HERRINGBONE
edge. This is also known as Barred Witch Stitch. Work a row of herringbone stitch.
This is a hard-wearing stitch, which is good for heavy-weight fabrics. A second thread is then is laced up and down through the herringbone as
The extra loop of thread around the needle gives a firm knotted edge. All the shown. Take care not to pierce the fabric. Use a tapestry needle to avoid
stitches should be worked very close together with no fabric showing between splitting the thread. This stitch can be worked in a single colour or with a
them. This way, the knots should lie neatly next to each other. contrasting colour and thread.
For a more decorative finish, graduate the tails to give an undulating curve or a
zig-zag.

THREADED TREBLE RUNNING STITCH


This is worked in the same way as Laced Double Running Stitch, but three
rows of running stitch are worked on the foundation row.

TENT STITCH (petit point)


The rows are worked from right to left and vice versa. Fig. 1 - bring the thread
out at the right-hand side, work a stitch diagonally upwards over 1 canvas
thread intersection, pass the needle diagonally downwards behind 1 horizontal
and 2 vertical canvas threads and bring through in readiness for next stitch.
Fig. 2 - the second row is worked from left to right, the direction of the stitches
is the same as the previous row but the needle is passed diagonally upwards. THREE-QUARTER CROSS STITCH
All stitches should slope in the same direction. The stitches on the reverse side Fig. 1 - To work three-quarter stitch, stitch a half cross stitch in the usual
are longer and slope more than on the correct side. way then add a quarter stitch, bringing the needle down in the centre of
the half cross stitch already worked. Work the stitch according to the
position of the symbol on the chart.
Fig. 2 - Where two symbols are given on the chart, work a three-quarter
stitch as shown in Fig. 1, then add a quarter stitch in another colour to
complete the cross stitch.
TRELLIS STITCH
THREE-SIDED STITCH Lay a foundation of threads lying in one direction then work the threads in
Start at A and work a diagonal stitch over the required number of threads the opposite direction at right angles. With a contrasting thread work long
coming out at B. Repeat this to make a double back stitch. Bring the needle out stitches diagonally across the lattice then work a tying stitch at all the
at C the same number of threads apart as AB and insert at B, repeat to form intersecting points.
another double back stitch. Repeat from C to A, then work a double back stitch
from A to D. Build up the sequence in this way.
This stitch can either be used as a decorative border, an insertion stitch when
joining lace or in pulled work.
The triangles are outlined by working two back stitches on each side. All must
be of equal size to give the correct effect.

TURKEY RUG KNOT STITCH


This stitch makes a series of closely-worked
loops which are cut and trimmed after the
stitching is finished to give a pile which
resembles the pile of a carpet. The loops
should be worked round a pencil or large
knitting needle to keep the size constant.
Each loop is secured by a back stitch (as shown). Each row is worked above
the preceding row - keep the rows as close together as possible.

TIED WINDMILL STITCH


Bring the needle through at 1, insert it at 2 (8 threads up) and bring it out
again at 3 (7 threads down and one thread to the left), insert at 4 (6 threads up
and 2 threads to the right). Continue until stage 12 has been worked. Tie down
with a cross stitch (this can sometimes be in a contrasting colour) working
stages A - D.

TWILL STITCH
Work vertical stitches over three horizontal
canvas threads, stepping down one thread
with each successive stitch in a diagonal line.
The next row can be worked up from the
bottom. Although the back looks different, the stitches on the front of the
work look even.

TRAMMING
Tramming threads are not visible on a finished piece of canvaswork. They are
threads which are laid down along the line of stitching and the stitches of your
choice are worked over them. This strengthens the finished piece or can be
used to give a raised effect to your work.

TWISTED BARS
Bring the thread through the remaining fabric at the centre where the
overcast bars meet. Take the needle back through to the wrong side at the
TRELLIS COUCHING
point where the other end of the bar is to be placed, and bring it back up
Trellis Couching is a laid-work stitch used for filling areas on plain and
through the cut hole. This diagonal strand of thread forms the basis of the
evenweave fabrics. It is essential to work this stitch in an embroidery hoop or
twisted bar. Take a stitch under the diagonal thread so that the thread twists
frame to ensure an even tension. Fill the shape with a foundation of laid
around. Continue in this way until the thread is covered. Take the needle
stitches worked in two journeys, working the stitches evenly and ensuring they
and thread back to the wrong side at the original starting point and fasten
completely cover the ground fabric. Work the trellis threads at an angle to the
off. Complete the remaining twisted bars in the same way.
foundation stitches. The trellis threads are then couched down at the
intersections using a tiny straight stitch or a cross stitch for variation.

TRELLIS FILLING STITCH (for


needlelace)
Firstly, outline your desired shape with an
evenly-spaced chain stitch. This will make a
foundation row with which to attach the
filling. Work the first row of the filling into
the chain stitch at the top of the shape by
making alternate loops and knots from left
to right. Tighten the knots before TWISTED CHAIN STITCH
proceeding to the next loop by pulling the
work thread to the right. When the edge is reached, and without entering the Twisted chain stitch is worked in a similar way to chain stitch but
fabric, take the thread down to the next chain stitch and continue the knots and instead of inserting the needle where it last emerged, a downward stitch is
loops in the other direction. This row and all following rows are worked into the done following the line of the design. Keep your working thread under the
loops of the row before. When the lower edge is reached, work the last row of point of the needle.
loops through the chain stitch to attach it firmly.
Fig. A - commence as for ordinary buttonhole stitch and pull thread through.
Fig. B - insert the needle on the bottom line and take a straight upward
stitch with the thread under the needle point. Pull thread through first in an
upward movement, then downwards to continue. This stitch may also be
worked on evenweave fabric.

TWISTED INSERTION STITCH


This stitch is also known as faggoting. Stitch alternatively into each edge of the
fabric, catching a loop of thread as shown. The finished stitches form a
decorative zig-zag effect.

UPRIGHT CROSS STITCH


This form of cross stitch is worked with a vertical and horizontal stitch. Like
ordinary cross stitch it is important that the upper half of all the crosses lie
in the same direction. The stitches can be worked diagonally across the
canvas, or in a horizontal or vertical line.

TWISTED LATTICE BAND

Work a row of double herringbone stitch, making sure


the stitches are not too tight. (The lacing will tighten the stitches.) Work the
lacing in a contrasting thread and/or colour in two journeys from left to right
and then back again, taking care not to pick up any of the ground fabric. Use a
tapestry needle to prevent splitting the thread of the foundation row.

VANDYKE
Bring the needle up through the fabric at A. Take a small horizontal stitch
from right to left at B and insert the needle at C. Bring the thread through at
D. Without piercing the fabric, pass the needle under the crossed threads at
B and insert at E. Carry on in this way. Do not pull the stitches too tightly,
otherwise the regularity of the centre plait will be lost.

VELVET STITCH
This stitch resembles the pile of a carpet. It is worked from left to right in
TWO-TONE HERRINGBONE MULTIPLAIT rows working from the bottom upwards. Bring the thread through at arrow
Using the base thread, fill in the outer corner areas in Diagram 1 using diagonal and insert the needle at A (2 threads up and 2 threads to the right), bring
satin stitch. The area should now look like Diagram 2. Using the top thread and out again at the arrow; re-insert the needle at A leaving a loop of thread at
following Diagrams 3, 4 and 5, work a diagonal cross stitch across the centre the bottom (the loops may be worked over a thick knitting needle to
holes, bringing thread up at 1, down at 2, up at 3 then down at 4. Now start regulate the length). Bring the needle out at B (2 threads down), insert at C
working outwards, taking small back stitches across the unfilled area (turn work (2 threads up and 2 threads to the left), bring out again at B, ready for the
for every stitch if you find it easier), until the whole area is filled as shown in next stitch. After all the rows have been worked, cut the loops evenly to
Diagram 6. desired length. Be careful not to trim the tufts too short.

UP AND
DOWN

WAVE FILLING STITCH


Fig. 1 - bring the thread out at the arrow, insert the needle at A (4 threads
up and 2 threads to the right) and bring through at B (4 threads to the left),
insert at arrow and bring through at C (4 threads to the left). Continue in
this way to the end of the row. Fig 2. - turn the fabric round before
commencing second and following rows and work in the same way into the
same holes in each preceding row to form diamond shapes. All stitches must
be pulled firmly.

WHEATEAR
Work two straight stitches at A and B. Bring the thread through below these
stitches at C and pass the needle under the two straight stitches without
entering the fabric. Insert the needle at C and bring it through at D.

BUTTONHOLE STITCH
WHIPPED BACK STITCH
This stitch is worked from right to left and is generally used in blackwork
embroidery for outlining a design. Work back stitch first, then with another
thread in the needle, whip over each back stitch without entering the fabric.

WHIPPED STEM STITCH


A foundation row of stem stitch is worked first, then a second thread is
whipped over the line without picking up any ground fabric.

WHIPPED STITCH (for ribbonwork)


Bring the ribbon up through the fabric at A, make a small stitch and bring
the needle down through the fabric at B and up again at C (Fig. 1). Wrap the
ribbon twice around this stitch finishing at B (Fig. 2), then twice in the other
direction finishing at A. Go down through the fabric at A to finish off. Work
WHIPPED BAR STITCH these whipped stitches in a circular formation, working the stitches in
This bar can also be used in drawn-thread embroidery. To work the overcast numerical order to form a bud shape (Fig. 3).
bars, withdraw the number of threads required from the fabric and separate the
loose threads into bars by overcasting firmly over these threads as many times
as required to cover the group of threads completely. Any stitch can be
overcast in this way.

WHIPPED CHAIN STITCH


Work chain stitch in the usual way, then with another thread in the needle, WIDE INTERLACING
whip over the chain stitch without entering the fabric. Work two rows of vertical straight
stitches (shown in Red on the diagram) alternately spaced across the width
of the piece. Work the interlacing stitch (in Blue) by starting centrally at the
left, taking the needle back under the first stitch on the lower row then, from
right to left under the first stitch of the upper row. Work in this way along
the whole row, ending centrally at the right-hand side.

WHIPPED FLY STITCH


A row of vertical fly stitch is worked with the tying stitch almost touching the
centre of the V. A complimentary thread is used to whip the tying stitches as
shown. Use a tapestry needle to help avoid picking up any of the fabric and to
avoid splitting the thread of the original fly stitch. WOVEN BARS
Used for Hardanger and pulled thread techniques.
Withdraw an even number of threads from the fabric and separate the loose
threads into bars by weaving over and under an even number of threads
until the threads are completely covered.

WHIPPED SPIDER'S WEB STITCH WOVEN BARS WITH PICOTS IN POST STITCH
Carry the thread diagonally across the section cut away, entering the fabric as Bring the thread out at the arrow, insert 3 threads to the left and bring out
shown on diagram, twisting the thread over the first thread as required back to at A, insert 3 threads to the right. Continue in this way until there are three
the starting point. woven stitches (6 stitches) in all. To form the post stitch on the fourth bar
Bring the needle up to the left of a woven bar. Take it back over the bar then (7th stitch) twist the thread twice round the needle in a clockwise direction
under the same bar and the next laid thread. Take the needle back over the laid and insert as shown in the diagram.
thread then under the laid thread and the next woven bar on the left. Use the Hold the twisted threads firmly in position with left thumb while still on the
point of the needle to push the woven thread towards the centre, where needle and push needle through to form a knot. Turn fabric so that
necessary, for a smooth effect. Continue in this manner working the web in a completed knot is to left-hand side, work a second knot in the same way,
clockwise direction until the web is 1 or 2 mm from the edge of the square. this time the previous knot and twisted thread on the needle are both held
Fasten off on the underside of the weaving. The last diagram shows the finished firmly in position beneath left thumb. Now, pull the needle through to form
effect. the knot. Complete by working three more woven stitches (6 stitches).
ZIG-ZAG HEMSTITCH
This variation is worked in the same way as hemstitch, but there must be an
even number of threads in each group of loose threads caught together in the
first row. In the second row, the groups are divided in half, so that each group
is composed of half the number of threads from one group and half from the
adjacent group. A half group starts and ends the second row.

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