TEX 110

DYEING AND PRINTING

BRIEF COURSE OUTLINE

Introduction
Process Flows & Substrates

Water & Effluents

Pretreatment
Singeing

Desizing

Scouring

Bleaching

Mercerization

Coloration
Color & Colorants

Dyeing

Printing

Finishing
Finishing Types

Evaluation of Finishing

EVALUATION SCHEME

True perfection is an unreachable aim, but however is worth to be pursued with all our strength

Principles of Textile
Coloration,, SDC, UK, 2001
Coloration
LWC Miles, Textile Printing,
Revised 2nd Ed., SDC, UK,
2003
D Heywood, Textile
Finishing, SDC, UK, 2003

Readings

AD Broadbent, Basic

Web

Textbook

ACADEMIC RESOURCES
EPG Gohl & LD Vilensky
Vilensky,,
Textile Science, 2nd Ed.
Longman, India, 1987

Textile Terms and

Definitions, 11th Ed. The

Textile Institute, UK, 2002

RM Christie, Environmental

Aspects of Textile Dyeing,

Dyeing,
Woodhead,, UK, 2007
Woodhead

www.scribd.com
www.e--textile.org
www.e

INTRODUCTION TO WET PROCESSING

TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Fabrication/ Dry Processing

Wet Processing

TEXTILE RAW MATERIALS

Manufacturing process starts with the production or harvesting of

raw fiber. Fibers used in textile processing can be harvested from
natural sources or manufactured from natural or synthetic polymer.

GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION BY TYPE AND ENDEND-USE

GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION BY TYPE AND ENDEND-USE

TEXTILE MANUFACTURING SEQUENCE

Fiber

Yarn Formation
Fabric Formation

Staple Yarn
Filament Yarn
Grey Woven Fabric
Grey Knit Fabric

Wet Processing

Finished Woven Fabric

Finished Knit Fabric

End-Product
EndManufacture

Apparel
Home Tex, Technical Tex

Fibers usually undergo four main processing stages in textile mills.

In addition to apparel as endend-product, home or technical textile are
also produced within these stages but in different ways.

WET PROCESSING OF TEXTILES

The third stage involve wet operations which consume large

amount of water and chemicals and also generates enormous
amount of wastewater or effluents.

WET PROCESSING STAGES

PROCESSING ROUTE BASED ON SUBSTRATE

WET PROCESSING OF COTTON

Staple

Yarn

Fabric

Singeing &
Mercerization

Singeing &
Desizing

Scour & Bleach

Scour & Bleach

Yarn Dyeing

Mercerization
Dyeing &/or
Printing

Not For
Knits

Finishing

WET PROCESSING OF POLYESTER

Staple or
Filament Yarn

Woven/Knit
Fabric

Scour &
Dyeing

Scouring

Presetting

Dyeing &/or
Printing

Finishing

WET PROCESSING OF POLYESTER

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

A series of operations that prepare the textile product for subsequent

finishing treatments such as dyeing, printing and finishing. The main
operations are singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching & mercerization.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The process of burning protruding fibers to deliver a smooth fabric

surface. An oxidizing flame that does not leave any sooty residue on
fibers is used and then passed through a quenching unit. Desizing units
are usually used in conjunction with the singeing process.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

This treatment is carried out on woven fabrics to remove sizing

ingredients from the warp so that the fabric absorb the liquor of
subsequent processes homogenously. Enzymes are used to biologically
degrade starch and transform it into water soluble byby-products.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The process of removing impurities such as wax, oil, fat from fiber to
render it absorbent is called scouring. This is carried out in alkaline
conditions (with NaOH
NaOH)) under high pressure and temperature (above
100 oC) in presence of detergent, sequestering agent and wetting agent.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The removal of natural coloring matters from fiber to achieve whiteness

is called bleaching. The most common bleaching agent is stabilized
alkaline solution of hydrogen peroxide. After treatment, the bleaching
agent must be removed by washing or through the use of enzyme.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

The treatment of cotton with strongly alkaline solution to improve

tensile strength, luster and dye uptake is called mercerization. It is
usually carried out after scouring and/or bleaching in cold condition.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

Dyeing is employed to give an allall-over shade to the fabric. In dyeing

process, dye molecules come into contact with fiber surface, form a thin
layer and diffuse into it. Dyeing may be carried out in batch or semisemicontinuous or continuous technique and in fiber or yarn or fabric state.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

Printing is a process by which colored patterns are produced on the

fabric. The color is applied to the fabric according to planned design and
then treated with heat, steam or chemicals to fix the color on the fabric.
Finally the fabric is washed to remove any excess paste and then dried.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY

It includes the final operations necessary for making the textile

attractive and suitable for endend-use. It imparts the final aesthetic,
chemical and mechanical properties to the fabric as per endend-use
requirements. Examples include drying, softening, calendaring etc.

WET PROCESSING TERMINOLOGY