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# 1 This document supplements the pdf found @ http://www.britishorigami.info/academic/thok/flexicube.

2 Fig 1a. Square 5 is rotated to lie on top of square 1. I like to think of whatever direction the strip comes out of the cube at this point as the “front” of the cube (i.e., square 6 always comes out towards the “front” of the cube).

Fig 1b. Square 6 is folded under square 1, square 7 is in back, 8 is on top of 3 and 9 is in front. Square 10 is folded under squares 1 and 6. Square 11 is folded over 7. Then run the strip under square 2 on the right, over square 9 in front, under square 4 on the left, over 7/11 and under 2 again. When you’re folding the flex-a-cube, it’s less important to know the face numbers than when to stop. Stop after sliding the tail over 7/11 and under the next face. When a cube is complete, the following faces show: 2, 4, 8, 10, 13 and 15. You need to know that in case you are taping strips together and want the tape not to show. Avoid putting tape on faces 5 and 11; doing so makes it hard to form the cube. Page 3. If you have a long strip (at least 35 times the width), fold your first cube by positioning square 1 in the center of the strip. If you have a shorter strip, start further to the right (“B”) side - remember you need 16 squares and a tail long enough to join more paper. so plan accordingly. Fig 5. Orientation of strip prior to folding second cube.

3 Page 3 (cont) Fig 5a. Roll square 5 on top of square 1, square 6 under square 1, square 7 in back of the cube and so forth.

Page 4. Fig 7. Open the hinges (rotate the #8 faces to the outside) so that the hinges and #4 faces are on top and the strips lie on the table. Fold the 5 and 11 diagonals according to the pdf diagram. When the model is complete, if the hinges and #4 faces are on top in the first set, the hinges between sets 1-2 will be on the table, hinges between sets 2-3 will be on the outer sides and hinges between sets 3-4 will be on the table. Fig 7a. After completion of the second set, if the set 1 hinges and #4 faces are on top, the strips should be coming out from the outer sides of the second set cubes.

Hint: if you are not sure you’re doing things right, fold the cube to the point where you slide square 12 under side square 2. The strip will be coming out in its final position and the cube will be stable enough to see if the strip is in the right place. If it isn’t, you can more easily redo your folding because you slid/locked the strip under only one square rather than three.

4 Page 5. Fig 8. Close the hinges (rotate the #8 faces back towards the center). That brings the strip to the top. Make the appropriate 5 and 11 diagonals according to the pdf diagram.

Fig 8a. Since the strip is coming out from on top of the set 2 cubes, you have to build the set 3 cube under square 1.

Fig 8b. After completion of the set 3 cubes. With set 1 #8 faces rotated out and hinges and #4 faces on top, the strips come from the bottoms of the set 3 cubes.

5 Page 6 Fig 9. Observe the proper orientation of the 5 and 11 diagonals. Right side.

Fig 9. Left side.

6 Fig 9a. The set 4 cubes are built by placing square 5 under rather than on top of square 1.

Fig 9a. Do not pull the strip all the way through the last cube on side B. Leave a big loop (arrow). If you have done things correctly, with the set 3-4 hinges on the table, the strips come out the tops of the set 4 cubes and point towards the middle.

Fig 9b. Another model showing proper locations of hinges and strips.

7 Page 7 Some views of the locking steps.

Once you understand the locking steps, it’s actually easiest to lock the cube by not putting the B-side strip under the last face (#2) until after you have trimmed and locked the A-side strip. Then lay the B strip over the locked A strip, slide it under the last face (#2) on the fourth B-side cube and finish locking and trimming it.