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free.But don't delay, Yard& gardenstructures asmany asyou want-they're absolutely Choose Ti mberframe arborthat cr eat es This offerexpires July11,2008.
a shadedrefuge ', Pottingbenchloadedwith handy features ' E asypl anters for your deckor pat io ' Fancyarborthat' ssurprisingly easyto bui l d ' H ammock standw i th a sunscr een roof Archedwooden footbridge
Water features
';: Build a castconcretefountain i n a w eekend " Japanese-style bamboo waterfall ,' A pond for fi sh and pl ant s ,':, by a waterfall Twih ponds connected :'i Formalpond surroundedby a deck
Shelving & storage

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Indoor Furniture
Tradi ti onal di ni ngtabl e m ade materia ls from off-the-shelf '."$[6ftsr-style coat and mitten rack y o u c a n b u i l di n o n e m o r n i n g ," 'Li ghteddi spl aycase,full- lengt h an d m or e! ti l ti ng mi rror,shel ves
8 O l u r u ez o 0 8t h e f a m i l y h a n d y m a n . c o m
Sheds & shelters

Two-room shed designed with the g a r d e n e ri n m i n d Compact shed for small spaces R u s t i cs h e d w i t h a slidingdoor and skylights Craftsman-style shed with extra storage in the attic Cottage-style shed with a big overhead g a r a g ed o o r An old-fashioned cupola decorates and ventilates any shed A fancy gazebo, c l a s s i cp e r g o l a s , screen houses and more!
Garage& workshop
F o l d - a w a yw o r k s h o p s w i t h b u i l t - i n b e n c h e s a n d s t o r a g e g a l o r e two designs to choose from Ultimate workbench loaded with slickfeatures E x p a n d a b l ew o r k b e n c h a n d t o o l s t a n d Compact workbench with a huge folding work top
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Thr eebeaut if u w l a y s to s h a d ey o u r d e c k or pat io Cr eat e a bug- f re e o u td o o rl i v i n g ro o m w i th a s c r eenhous e- tw o d e s i g n s to c h o o s e fro m S t unningdec kd e s i g n s a , n o u td o o rk i tc h e n i s l a n da n d m o r e .
Outdoor furniture
S i m p l e c e d a r b e n c hy o u c a n b u i l d i n 3 h o u r s C l a s s i c ,c o m f o r t a b l e A d i r o n d a c k c h a i r s a n d l o v e s e a t G o r g e o u so u t d o o r h u t c h t h a t h o l d s g a r d e n t o o l s o r g r i l l i n g g e a r Old-fashioned porch swing that's easy to build
thefamilyhandyman.com .lurue z o o a8 l
Bookcase
Createyourownclassic bookcase with simpletoolsinve
Traditional
easy-to-follow steps.
D
by David Radtke
Dont make the same mistake I made when I moved into my new house. I left my books stacked in boxes for two years before I nally got around to building bookcases. I cant tell you how many times I rummaged through those boxes looking for reference books or that mystery novel I wanted to revisit. When youre ready to display your literary favorites, dont go to a furniture store and settle for a poorly constructed bookcase with zippo for detail. For about the cost of a cheap bookcase ($300), you can build this handsome and solid heirloom-quality piece. This project is too challenging for a beginner. Dont tackle it unless youve used a router and a doweling jig and feel condent with your circular saw. Weve broken the project into ve easy-to-follow steps and given you the option of selecting your own trim and nish. The bookcase construction is
straightforward and basic, so its easy to cut and t the pieces. The xed shelves add stability and are designed to hold a variety of average-sized books, but you can customize the shelf heights to suit your collection. Our bookcase is made primarily from maple plywood and detailed with solid maple boards and regular lumberyard maple colonial stop molding (Fig. A). If maple isnt your favorite wood, you could opt for birch and oak plywood and moldings. They too are commonly stocked in full-service lumberyards and good home centers. The grooved vertical front pieces on each side (uted casing) may look challenging, but with a shop-made jig and a router, youll get perfect results. For details, see Make Your Own Fluted CasingThe Easy Way, p. 86. Figure on about a day and a half for cutting and assembling, plus a couple of evenings for sanding and nishing.
78
APRIL 1999 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Step 1
Build the basic box, p. 80
Step 2
Make the decorative front pieces, p. 83
Step 3
ALL YOU NEED ARE SIMPLE HAND AND POWER TOOLS
The only power tools youll need are a 7/8-hp router, a circular saw (Photo 1) with a ne-toothed plywood blade, a drill, a power miter saw and an orbital sander. (And you could substitute a hand miter saw for the power one.) Youll also need other woodworking tools like C-clamps, bar clamps, spring clamps, a screwdriver, drill bits and a doweling jig (Photo 5) with a 3/8-in. brad point bit. Although you could get by without it, a 24-in. Clamp & Tool guide (Photo 2) is great for routing perfectly straight grooves (dadoes) to support the shelves (see the Buyers Guide, p. 92). This tool clamps rmly to the edges of the plywood and leaves an unobstructed path to push your router from one side to the next. Its not a tool youll get and use only once. The Clamp & Tool guide has dozens of uses, such as helping you make super-straight crosscuts (perpendicular cuts to the wood grain) on lumber and plywood.
Make your own uted casing the easy way, p. 86
Step 4
Apply the front trim, p. 90
Step 5
Wipe on a beautiful Danish oil nish, p. 92
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 1999
79
B o o k c a s e
Step 1
Building the basic box: Sides, shelves and back
1
TOP PIECE OF RIP GUIDE RIP GUIDE
SAW BASE LOWER EDGE OF RIP GUIDE ALIGN YOUR MARK WITH THIS EDGE FACTORY EDGE
PIECE BEING CUT FROM SHEET
RIP 3/4-in. hardwood plywood into 11-1/4 in. wide pieces for the sides and the shelves. Cut these pieces to length to make the two sides and the six shelves. Also cut the 1/4-in. plywood back to width and length while you have the edge guide set up.
GET STRAIGHT RIP CUTS WITH A HOMEMADE JIG
MARK AND CUT the 1/4-in. dadoes in the sides. Use a special 23/32-in. wide straight-cut router bit for a tight fit for the thinner-than3/4-in. plywood.
If youve got a fancy setup for achieving perfectly straight cuts (rips) from a sheet of plywood on a table saw or something else, all the better. If you dont, this simple jig (Photo 1) is what you need. Construct the jig by screwing together two scraps of either 1/2- or 3/4-in. plywood. The top narrow piece (2-1/2 in. wide) must have one factory straightedge. Leave the bottom piece a few inches wider than your saw base (in most cases, that will make the bottom piece about 10 in.). Screw the top piece to the bottom with drywall screws every 5 in. Now you need to trim the lower piece perfectly straight. Now, clamp the jig to the entire piece of 3/4-in. maple plywood, setting it to the correct width. Rip-cut (lengthwise) the two bookcase sides (A), then cut them to length (crosscut). Rip two additional lengths and crosscut them (outer sides A facing up) into 31-7/8 in. lengths for the shelves. Cut the 1/4-in. plywood back (C) to the dimensions in the Cutting List, p. 83x.
EDGE GUIDE 23/32" GROOVES
A B
3
BOTTOM SHELF (B)
GLUE AND SCREW the plywood shelves to the sides with 1-5/8 in. wood screws. Drill pilot and countersink holes no more than 3/4 in. from the front and back to accept the screws. The screws will be covered by molding later. Next, align the 1/4-in. plywood back (C) and square the assembly by nailing into the back of the sides and shelves.
80
B o o k c a s e
ROUT THE 1/4-IN. DEEP SHELF SLOTS INTO THE SIDES
APPLY the divider and stop molding to the sides of the bookcase. Glue, then nail the divider molding to the sides with 6d finish nails (two per piece). Glue the stop molding to the sides as shown in Fig. A. Further secure the molding with 7/8-in. brads spaced every 12 in. Set the brads with a nail set. Youll fill the holes later with wood putty.
The shelves (B) lock into 1/4-in. deep slots (dadoes) in the upright sides (A). To make the dadoes, install a 23/32-in. straight-cut router bit (see Buyers Guide, p. 92) in your router and set the depth of cut to 1/4 in. The special 23/32-in. router bit is the same width as 3/4-in. plywood, so the slots it cuts will make a nice snug t for the shelves. Dont substitute a 3/4-in. bit; youll be unhappy with the sloppy t. Clamp your edge guide (Photo 2) to a scrap piece of plywood and rout a test dado. Then measure the distance from the edge guide to the near edge of the dado. This will give you the distance youll need for setting up each dado groove. Mark and cut (see Fig. A) all the 1/4-in. deep dadoes on the inside face of each part A. TIP: When you cut dadoes with a router and straightedge, clamp the edge guide to the left of your intended groove, then push the router base away from you as you rout the groove. This keeps the router tight against the edge guide as the bit rotates through the cut. Finishsand all the plywood pieces now with 150-grit sandpaper; otherwise, youll struggle with sanding in tight spaces after assembly.
GLUE AND SCREW THE SHELF ENDS INTO THE SLOTTED SIDES
4
STOP MOLDING
(E)
DIVIDER MOLDING
(D1)
Its essential to have a at surface for assembly so you can align the shelves squarely to the sides. The shelves (B) should t tightly into the grooves. Test the t. If the shelf wont slip into the dado, wrap some ne sandpaper (150-grit) around a 1/2-in. square block about 3 in. long and sand the sides of the grooves until you get a snug t. Once youre sure everything ts, youll have to work fast to complete the assembly. Youll need to get the shelves glued into the dadoes and the
82
1/4-in. plywood back nailed into place before the glue sets (about 15 minutes). This means you need to get your drill, countersink bit and a power screwdriver and screws ready to go. Spread a light coat of glue on one shelf side and into the dado, then t each shelf into its dado. Have a moist cotton rag handy to wipe away any oozing glue. Next, screw the shelf to the side as shown in Fig. A, p. 84. The screw holes for each shelf side must be predrilled within 3/4 in. of the front and the back. The screwheads will be covered later by the molding. Follow this procedure for each shelf. Now, before the glue sets, grab the 1/4-in. plywood back (C) to square the assembly. Theres no need to glue the plywood back to the shelves or sides. First nail the back along one entire side using a 1-in. panel nail every 5 in. Then align the top of the other side ush with the top edge of the plywood; this will square the assembly. Nail along this side, then nail the rest of the back into the backside of the shelves. Let the glue dry for at least two hours before continuing.
DETAIL THE SIDES OF THE BOX WITH MOLDING
Now its time to detail the sides with the divider moldings (D1 and the lower D2; Fig. A) and the colonial top moldings. The divider molding, with the stop molding (Photo 4), breaks the strong vertical line to give the bookcase a distinct architectural look. It has a base section, a main vertical section and a top section similar to the cornice of a building. To begin detailing the sides, rst cut the divider molding, then glue and nail it (use 6d nish nails) to the sides (Photo 4). Drill pilot holes through the molding to prevent splitting. The colonial stop molding (E) and the backside of the divider molding must be applied so they align ush with the 1/4-in. plywood back. Glue and clamp this molding to the side. Drive 7/8-in. wire brads through the stop molding into the sides every 12 in., then set them.
FIG. A
84
B o o k c a s e
Step 2
Making the decorative front pieces: Corner blocks, curved aprons
CUT THE CORNER BLOCKS AND THE CURVED APRON AND GLUE THEM TOGETHER
DOWELING JIG
CORNER BLOCKS
(F)
APRON
(G)
The decorative upper and lower corner blocks (Photo 6) are simple to make from 3/4-in. wide x 5-1/2 in. long pieces of solid maple. The detail on the front of the corner blocks is made by gluing mitered colonial stop molding to each block face. First cut the four corner blocks (F) and the two curved aprons (G). Use a 27-1/2 in. radius to mark the curve onto the aprons. A nail, a wire and a pencil will Cutting List
KEY A B C D1 D2 D3 E F G H J1 J2 K1 K2 L PCS. 2 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4 x 11-1/4 x 78 maple plywood sides 6 3/4 x 11-1/4 x 31-7/8 maple plywood shelves 1 1/4 x 32-3/4 x 76 maple plywood back 6 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 13 maple divider molding* 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 35-7/8 maple divider molding* 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 4-5/8 maple divider caps* 7/16 x 1-1/4 colonial stop 80 ln. ft. molding (allows for waste) 4 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 5-1/2 maple corner blocks 2 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 26-3/4 maple curved aprons 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 64-3/4 maple 2 uted casing 1 3/4 x 12-15/16 x 35-3/4 maple plywood top 5-1/2 3/4 x 3/4maple edge ln. ft. banding* 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 4 maple front feet* 2 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 2 maple back feet* 2 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 11-1/4 support strips
work ne. Drill the dowel holes into the inside edge of the blocks and corresponding holes into the end of each apron. Dont glue these parts together yet. Mark the backside of each block and apron so you know which piece goes where. Now to detail the corner blocks, miter the stop molding to t the perimeter of each block. I used a wooden handsaw miter box for control. Avoid cutting small pieces with the power miter saw. Once youve cut all the pieces, glue them to the blocks and clamp them with spring clamps (Photo 6). When the glue is dry, sand the edges of each block clean and glue the doweled joints for each upper and lower apron assembly. Clamp each assembly for at least two hours.
5
DRILL 3/8-in. dowel holes in the corner blocks and corresponding holes in the aprons. Glue and clamp this assembly after you glue the stop moldings to the front of the blocks.
GLUE the stop molding to the front of the corner blocks. Be very precise about the miter cuts. A simple wooden handsaw miter box works great for these small, hard-to-hold pieces. After the glue is set, sand the edges of the block with 100-grit, then 150-grit, sandpaper. Glue the dowel joints and clamp the corner blocks to the apron to complete the apron assemblies.
STOP MOLDING
(E)
APRON ASSEMBLY STOP MOLDING
(E)
*Have the lumberyard cut these pieces to width from a 1x6.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 1999
83
JIG BASE 5/16" x 3/4" HARDWOOD RUNNERS CENTER LINE
B o o k c a s e
3/4" x 2" SIDES
Step 3
Make your own uted casing the easy way
ALIGN THE SIDES TO THE BASE
1-1/2"
WIDTH OF ROUTER BASE
13/16"
DRILL holes 1-1/2 in. on both sides of the center line of your jig. Keep the holes about 4 in. back from each end and spaced about 2 ft. apart toward the middle. The holes are spaced 1-1/2 in. from the center to avoid having screw holes show through your flutes. If you rout a different width or number of flutes, you may need to change the holddown screw locations. After drilling the holes, flip the jig over and countersink them to accept screws for holding the workpiece.
Making decorative utes for cabinet trim was a task I dreaded for years. My rst attempts involved an edge guide attached to a router base. Invariably Id slip up, the router would wander (usually on the last ute), and Id have to start all over. Later I tried a router table. But as I repositioned my hands while feeding the board over the bit, burn marks would appear, and theyd take hours to sand out. But now that Ive built this jig for my hand-held router, Ive overcome those problems. Now I enjoy churning out perfectly uted pieces.
86
BUILD THE FLUTING JIG FROM 3/4-IN. PLYWOOD AND TWO HARDWOOD STRIPS
BLANK
Use one-third of a sheet (lengthwise) of 3/4-in. cabinet-grade plywood for the base and sides of the jig and two strips of hardwood for the runners (Photo 1). Heres how to measure, cut and assemble the jig: I Measure the base of your router plus two thicknesses of your plywood sides (usually 23/32 in. each, or 1-7/16 in. total) to get the right width for the jig base. I Rip the measured jig base width lengthwise (8 ft.) from your plywood sheet. Accuracy is critical; use your cutting guide for your circular saw or a table saw. I Rip the two plywood sides 2 in. wide. I Rip two runners 5/16 in. wide from a 3/4-in. thick hardwood board. I Cut the 5/16-in. wide dadoes into the two sides using either a dado blade or multiple passes with a standard table saw blade. The dadoes must be 3/8 in. deep.
FLUTE LOCATIONS
CENTER LINE
1/2" MINIMUM FROM FRONT EDGE
8
MARK your flute locations 1 in. apart on each end of your 1x4 blank. Align the center mark of the workpiece with the center line of the jig and screw the blank to the jig from underneath. Do the same on the opposite end and be sure to install the hold-down screws toward the middle as well. If your blank has a slight bow or crook, the hold-down screws will hold it straight and flat as you rout.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 1999
87
9
5/32" DEEP CUT
ROUT the first pass of the first flute 5/32 in. deep. Dont try to take the whole depth at once, because you may get some tear-out and chatter. For a smooth cut, keep the router moving all the way to the other end in one continuous pass.
B o o k c a s e
Glue (carpenters glue works best) and screw the jig sides to the jig base (Photo 7). The sides must be ush with the base on each side. Drill pilot and countersink holes for the screws. Use a 1-1/4 in. screw every 8 in. along each side. I Secure the hardwood runners into the dadoes using carpenters glue and spring clamps. Set the jig aside to dry. Once the jig is assembled, test the t of your router base. Move it along the chute from end to end. It must glide freely along the runners without binding on the sides. You may have to sand the sides a bit if the router is too tight in the chute. Conversely, if theres play between the router and the sides, install a strip of veneer on one side. (See the Buyers Guide, p. 92.) Now that youve made the jig, follow the instructions in Photos 7 11 and practice on some scrap pieces. To ensure consistent depth (youll make two progressively deeper passes for each ute), familiarize yourself with the depth gauge on your router. Its usually a dial or ring on the housing.
I 88
ROUT a second pass with the router bit set at 5/16-in. depth. Be sure to check your router depth gauge so you can repeat the exact depth for the final pass on the next flutes.
10
5/16" DEEP CUT
1 1
ROUT each side flute using the same twopass method as with the center flute. When the blank is positioned to the side of the jig, only one row of holddown screws is necessary.
FINAL FLUTE
CENTER LINE
B o o k c a s e
Step 4
FLUTED CASING (H)
Applying the front trim, top and feet

GLUE AND NAIL YOUR DETAIL MOLDINGS TO THE BOOKCASE FRONT
DIVIDER MOLDING (FRONT) (D2)
1 2
APRON ASSEMBLY (BOTTOM)
ALIGN the bottoms of the fluted side casing with the corner blocks. Glue, clamp and nail the casing to the bookcase sides. Use six 6d finish nails per side. Set the nails and fill the nail holes.
Turn the bookcase on its back to glue the front trim pieces in place. Start by aligning the bottom edge of the lower apron assembly even with the bottom edge of the sides (A). Let the apron overhang the sides an equal amount. Mark this location. Next, glue and clamp the assembly (Photo 12) in place. Next, cut and glue the uted casing pieces in place. Be sure they overhang the same distance as the lower apron assembly. For added insurance, nail the casing to the plywood sides with six 6d nish nails (Fig. A, p. 84) spaced evenly along the length. Now glue and nail (Photo 13) the divider caps (D3) to the top of the uted casing and to the side pieces of divider molding (D1) with 4d nish nails. The caps are a continuation of the divider molding and establish an end point for the uted columns. After the upper apron assembly is glued in place, glue the upper full-length divider molding (Fig. A) to the top of the apron assembly and then nail the miter joints together with 4d nails.
90
CUT THE PLYWOOD TOP AND GLUE SOLID MAPLE STRIPS TO THE EDGE
Now cut and glue the stop molding (E) to the top of the plywood back. Use spring clamps to hold it in place. While the glue is drying, cut the plywood top (J1) and the 3/4 x 3/4-in. edge banding (J2) to length. Glue the molding around the front and sides of the plywood top. Use masking tape to hold the edging in place until the glue dries. Once the glue has dried, sand the edging ush to the plywood on the top and bottom. Screw the top assembly to the sides (A). Use 4d nish nails to secure the top to the stop molding in the back. Now cut the stop molding strips to cover the cut-edge shelf fronts. Secure the molding with glue and 7/8-in. brads. Set the brads and ll the holes with wood putty.
SCREW THE FEET TO THE BOTTOM FRONT AND BACK
APRON ASSEMBLY (TOP)
To complete the assembly, cut the front and back feet and secure each with two 1-5/8 in. wood screws. Be sure the support strips (L) are glued to the underside (Fig. A, p. 84) rst to help support the feet. Cut the front and back feet and screw them to the bottom with 1-5/8 in. wood screws.
DIVIDER MOLDING (FRONT) (D2) 1/4" PLYWOOD BACK (C)
DIVIDER CAP (D3)
1 3
GLUE the upper apron assembly to the sides after nailing the divider cap molding to the top of the casing. Once the apron assembly is glued, the next step is to glue, nail and clamp the top center section of the divider molding in place.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 1999
91
B o o k c a s e
Step 5
Wipe on a beautiful Danish oil nish
Bookcase projects like this are really tough to nish with a brush-on varnish after assembly, so I used a wipeon oil/varnish commonly called Danish oil. C L You can select colored oil/varnish or clear. The combination oil/varnish is as easy to apply as an oil and buffs to a nice luster like a brushed-on varnish. Apply the nish 0 according to the manufacturers instructions, using a cotton rag and MADE FROM keeping a brush on hand to get into MADE FROM the corners. Fill all the nail holes after the rst coat of nish is dry. Use colored putty sticks to match the surrounding wood tone.Two coats of nish will be adequate but a third will give you a bit more luster and depth. NOTE: Hang the oil-soaked rags outside to dry to prevent combustion. Buyers Guide
BOOKCASE I Clamp & Tool guide is available from Tools on Sale (800-328-0457). Catalog No. CT24C, $24.95. I The 23/32-in. router bit is available from Trend-lines (800-877-7899). The 1/4-in. shank is Catalog No. CT1097K, $10.95; 1/2-in. shank is Catalog No. CT1098K, $10.95. FLUTE JIG I Pressure-sensitive veneer strips: Catalog No. 77925, $3.99. I Polycarbonate base blanks: Catalog No. 24935, $14.99. I 1/2-in. core-box bit: Catalog No. 90924, $12.69. All available from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, (800) 279-4441.
Anchor your bookcase with a
safety wire
Although stable on hard ooring, tall narrow cabinets like this bookcase can be unsteady when set on wall-to-wall carpeting. The 1/4-in. thick tackless wood strip below the carpeting and near the wall can slightly elevate the back of the cabinet and make the bookcase tippy. You can remedy this problem by reducing the thickness of the back feet by 1/4 in. and attaching an 18-gauge steel safety wire, as shown below, near the center back of the cabinet. Fasten the other end of the wire to a stud. Mark your bookcase height on the wall. Screw in a 2-1/2 in. drywall screw with a nish washer halfway into the wall stud, wrap the wire around the screw, then tighten the screw to the drywall. Drive a 1-in. screw and nish washer near the back of the bookcase into the plywood top. Position the bookcase and wind the wire tight around the screw. Tighten the screw and nish wire down and cut the excess wire. Now you can pile on the books.
Shopping List
ITEM QUANTITY 3/4 x 4 x 8 maple plywood 1-1/4 sheets 1/4 x 4 x 8 maple plywood 1 sheet 1x4 x 7 maple 2 1x6 x 5 maple 4 Colonial stop molding 80 ln. ft. 7/8 brad nails 1 pkg. 1 panel nails (for plywood back) 1 pkg. 1/2 pint Carpenters glue 1-5/8 wood screws 1 lb. 6d nish nails 1 lb. 1 lb. 4d nish nails Colored wood putty sticks 2 Router bits (see Buyers Guide)
2-1/2" DRYWALL SCREW SCREW FINISH WASHERS
WIRE CABINET TOP DRYWALL WALL SURFACE WALL STUD
This project rst appeared in our sister publication, Home Woodworker (Fall 1998). It has been reformatted for The Family Handyman.
Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration EUGENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
92
Store-bought cabinets make the project simple to build and easy to adapt to any room
by Gary Wentz
44
SEPTEMBER 2004 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 2004
45
CEILING RAIL

3 1/2" 3 1/4" COVE MOLDING
SHELF STILE
Figure A Bookcase details
SHELF UNIT
CEILING RAIL
END CAP
NOSING

WALL CLEAT
SHELF STILE
11/2" 2"
1/2" QUARTER ROUND
DOOR
UPPER RAIL NOSING
CABINET TOP END CAP

30" TALL WALL CABINET

PLYWOOD STRIPS UPPER RAIL
WALL CLEAT
CABINET
STILE

BASE BASEBOARD DOOR
LOWER RAIL 1"

1/2" QUARTER ROUND
2" 6"
51/4"
4 1/2" BASEBOARD (21/2" AROUND SEAT) BASE SHOE
EXACT DIMENSIONS VARY WITH YOUR ROOM SIZE. SEE TEXT FOR SIZING GUIDELINES.
2" = BIRCH PLYWOOD OR SOLID MAPLE = STANDARD CABINETS = 3/4" FILLERS
BACKING
46
Stylish shelves
o you think building wallto-wall shelving is beyond your skill level? Well, take a closer look. We designed this project around standard cabinets, which eliminates the most difficult work. The rest is plywood and boardsno tricky joints or fancy curves. This project will fit gracefully into just about any room. Its stylish enough to dress up a living room but informal enough to suit a casual bedroom. Its open shelves will display collectibles in the family room, and its closed cabinets will add practical storage space in a home office. Whatever the room, this design doesnt require a lot of space. It protrudes less than 14 in. from the wall and can be as long or short as you like. Because its built in sections, it could run partway along a wall or completely cover the longest wall in any house. The window seat and the shelf above it are optional. Usually, the most difficult, timeconsuming part of a project like this is building and installing cabinet doors. We eliminated those steps by building this bookcase around standard kitchen cabinets.We used uppercabinets,shallow wall cabinets meant to be hung above kitchen countertops. But we didnt want this project to look like it belonged in a kitchen. To avoid the kitchen look, we framed around the doors with solid wood rails and stiles, which gives them the inset appearance of traditional built-in furniture.
Expect to spend about three weekends on a bookshelf like the one shown here. The materials for ours, which covers a 12-ft. long, 8-ft. tall wall, cost about
$1,000.Your costs will vary depending on the cabinets you choose and lumber costs in your area. Theres a complete list of the materials we used on p. 60.
Custom-fit the plan to your room

Because this whole project is built around cabinets, you have to carefully plan their positions and spacing. By experimenting with various cabinet and spacing widths, you can find a combination that perfectly fits the length of a wall. Start with a list of available cabinet widths. Cabinets are usually available in 3-in. increments: 21, 24, 27, etc. You could do a scale drawing on graph paper, but its easy to make disastrous mistakes that way. Instead, cut wood scraps that represent various cabinet and spacing widths. Then experiment with various combinations (Photo 1). Make all the spaces between cabinets the same, ideally between 1-1/2 and 2-1/4 in. Take up the odd inch or two by using different spacing at walls. In our situation, for example, we placed our first cabinet 2-1/4 in. from the wall. Then we spaced cabinets 2 in. apart until we reached the other wall, where we ended up with a 3-in. space. The spacing widths you choose will determine the widths of the spacers between cabinets (Photo 4), the cabinet stiles (vertical trim; Photo 15) and the shelf stiles (Photo 18). When youve determined your layout, make a sketch with measurements and order your cabinets (see Choosing Cabinets, p. 56, for more details).
SPACERS
Tools, time and cost

Compared with most built-in furniture, this bookcase is easy to build. But its not for a beginner. In addition to standard tools, youll need a table saw, a miter saw, a router, a random orbital sander and some experience using them. If you dont have a compressor and 2-in. brad nailer, consider adding them to your tool arsenal for $300 or less. Air nailing will give you better results and save hours of hammer work.
SPACERS
AVAILABLE CABINET WIDTHS
END OF BOOKCASE AT WINDOW
Cut wood strips to match cabinet widths and various spacing widths. Experiment until you determine the sizes that best fit your space.
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Stylish shelves
Build the plywood base and level it along both its length and its width. Fasten it to the floor with metal brackets. Cut off the excess shims and then screw the plywood cover to the base (Photo 2).
BASEBOARD REMOVED
Start with the bases and cabinets

The cabinets sit on plywood bases that are fastened to the floor with L-brackets (Photo 2). Make the bases match the depth of the cabinets and install them about 1/4 in. from the wall to allow for any irregularities in the wall.When determining the length of the base, subtract 1/4 in. to give yourself some adjustment space. Be sure to allow 3/4 in. for the end caps (Photo 2). The plywood sides of the bases may not be perfectly straight, so draw a straight line on the floor before you install them.When the bases are level and fastened, screw on the plywood covers. Next, set the wall-end cabinet on the base. Push it up against the wall and draw a line on the wall to mark the position of the wall cleat (Photo 3). Screw-in anchors make fastening the cleat to drywall easy. Just hold the cleat in place and drill 3/16-in. holes through it and the drywall. Then screw in the anchors and drive screws into them. Also screw a cleat to the cabinet with 1-1/4 in. screws. Position the cabinets, join them by screwing into spacers (Photo 4) and screw them to the base. We used pine for the spacers. Make sure the fronts of the cabinets are perfectly flush with the base. When you reach the end of the base, take a moment to double-check the cabinet positioning. Since everything is fastened with screws, you can still make corrections easily. Then screw two spacers to the last cabinet so you can nail on the end cap ( P h o t o 5 ). Unlike the base and cabinets, which stand about 1/4 in. away from the wall, the end cap should fit tightly against the wall. You may have to scribe it using the technique shown in the inset to Photo 15. Prepare for the cabinet top by tacking three layers of 3/4-in. plywood to the cabinets (Photo 6). These stacks of plywood strips raise the top above the cabinets, providing space for the upper rail and nosing (Photos 16 and 19). Make sure the front stack is perfectly flush with the cabinet. Drill pilot holes through both the front and the back strips every 12 to 16 in. so you can fasten the top from inside the cabinets (Photo 6). The cabinet top must protrude 3/4 in. beyond the cabinet frontsa hair more isnt a problem, but a shorter overhang will create a gap between
3/4" END CAP SPACE
STRAIGHT LINE
Predrill and screw a cleat to the end cabinet and another to the wall to support the end stile. Use screw-in drywall anchors to mount wall cleats.
WALL CLEAT
CABINET CLEAT
SCREW-IN DRYWALL ANCHOR ANCHOR
PLYWOOD COVER ON BASE
Join cabinets by driving 1-5/8 in. screws into the spacers between them. Predrill and make sure the spacers are flush with the cabinet fronts. Position the cabinets and screw them to the base.
SPACER
FACES FLUSH
48
the top and the nosing. Dont worry about gaps between the wall and the back edge of the top. Theyll be hidden by the shelf units.
5
SPACER
Set the shelf units on the cabinet top

Plan the widths of the shelf units so the stiles youll nail on later (Photo 17) will line up with the stiles on the cabinets below (and match widths). To figure the shelf widths, simply position scraps of stile material on the cabinet top and take measurements. Shelf units will meet at the center of stiles, but positioning will vary a bit at ends (wall and window). If you dont have an 8-ft. ceiling, adjust the height of the units to leave about a 1-1/2 in. gap to the ceiling. Trim will cover the gap.
END CAP
Screw spacers to the end cabinets and nail on the end caps. Cut the end cap to fit tightly against the wall, flush with the front of the cabinets, and to stand about 2-1/8 in. taller than the cabinet.
Figure B Upper shelf details
CLEAT
CABINET TOP 3/4" OVERHANG
SPACER BLOCK MOLDING
3-1/2" SCREW 1/4" PLYWOOD BACK 56" 9" x 55 1/4" SHELF SIDE
Build up the front and back edges of the cabinets with three layers of plywood strips. Drill 3/16-in. pilot holes through the strips and cabinets. Fasten the cabinet top with 3-1/2 in. screws. Use a spacer block to ensure that the front overhangs 3/4 in.
7
CLEAT
2"
Assemble the shelf unit sides and cleats and square the unit by measuring diagonally both ways. When the measurements are equal, the unit is square. Then nail the back into place.
1/4" PLYWOOD BACK
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Stylish shelves
WALL CLEAT SHELF UNIT
Attach wall cleats even with the fronts of the shelf units. Join units with glue and then clamp them. Put wax paper under them to keep excess glue off the cabinet top.
WAX PAPER
Position the shelves, then fasten the fronts of the shelf units with 2-1/2 in. screws. Drill a recess for the screwhead with a countersink bit and then drill a pilot hole.
SQUARE
COUNTERSINK BIT
10
Screw the shelf units to the wall studs. Cover the screwheads (and missedthe-stud screw holes!) with door stop molding.
DOOR STOP MOLDING
Tack the shelf unit parts together with a brad nailer. Then add 1-5/8 in. screws for strength. Before you set the units in place, locate the wall studs, measure their distances from a corner and jot down those measurements.Youll need them later when you screw the units to the wall. Mount wall cleats for the shelf units just as you did for the cabinets (see Photo 3). Before fastening the units in place, join them with a single bead of glue near the fronts (Photo 8). After the glue has set for about an hour, position the units and screw them to the cabinet top, making sure the sides and backs of the units are square (Photo 9). Next, check your stud-location list and fasten the units to studs with 3-in. screws. Dont worry if you miss a stud and have to try againthe screwheads and holes are covered by molding (Photo 10). Tack spacer strips of 1/4-in. plywood to the end cabinet and then add the end cap. You may have to scribe it to fit the wall (see the inset to Photo 15). If you plan to place a shelf above a window, the end cap will stand a couple of inches above the window height and support the shelf. Otherwise, run the end cap all the way to the ceiling. If you want to put a shelf over the window (Photo 11), first make sure theres enough space between the window trim and the ceiling. To determine how tall the shelf opening will be, measure from the trim to the ceiling and subtract 7-1/2 in. (to allow for the ceiling rail, a 2-in. space between the shelf and the trim, and the shelf itself).A shelf opening less
50
Stylish shelves
11
Cut the end caps and nail them into place. Assemble the window shelf (Figure A). Then set it on the end caps and nail it into place. For easier installation, make the shelf 1/8 in. narrower than the opening.
END CAP
than 8 in. tall will look awkward.Another consideration is the span of the shelf.Although the shelf is made from two layers of 3/4-in. plywood, it shouldnt span more than 4 ft., especially if it will hold books or other heavy stuff. The adjustable shelves are simply plywood with wood nosing (see Figure B). A strip of pegboard makes a great guide when youre drilling holes for the adjustable shelf supports (Photo 12).We placed our lowest holes about 10 in. above the cabinet top, spaced them 4 in. apart and stopped about 8 in. from the top.
Frame the doors with rails and stiles

In cabinet lingo, horizontal parts of doors or frames are railsand vertical parts are stiles. Before you can add either of them, you have to install the cabinet doors and align them perfectly (Photo 13). The tops of the doors must form a straight line, and the space between the doors on adjacent cabinets must be right. The right spacing is the stile width plus 1/4 in. That allows a 1/8-in. gap between doors and stiles.Youll remove the doors later in order to finish the bookcase, so label them with masking tape stickers. With the doors in place, fire up your table saw and rip 2-in. wide boards for the rails. Also rip the stile material, but dont cut stiles to length until the lower rail is in place. Before you make any crosscuts, grab a square and check the accuracy of your miter saw. If it doesnt make perfect 90-degree cuts, youll end up with ugly joints between rails and stiles.Adjusting the saw takes only a few minutes and prevents headaches later. Fasten the rails and stiles with 2-in. brads every 12 in. or so. Nail the lower rail in place first ( P h o t o 1 4 ), then set the stiles on it (Photo 15).Avoid leaving the ends of the rails exposed. The end grain turns darker than the face grain of wood when finished. To hide the end grain of the upper rail, we ran our end stiles up to the cabinet top.The end of the lower rail was later hidden by the window seat.
12
Drill holes for the adjustable shelf supports (usually 1/4 in.) using pegboard as a guide. To minimize splintering, use a brad point bit. Mark the hole depth with masking tape.
1-1/2"
BRAD POINT BIT
DEPTH MARKER
13
Screw a straightedge in place to help you perfectly align the door tops. Hang the doors. Hinges on frameless cabinets let you adjust the doors simply by turning screws.
TEMPORARY STRAIGHTEDGE
ADJUSTMENT SCREWS
52
Stylish shelves
14
Nail the lower rail into place first, using 1/8-in. spacers under the doors to position it. Also add a strip of plywood below the rail to serve as backing for the baseboard.
LOWER RAIL 1/8" SPACER
BASEBOARD BACKING
15
Position stiles using 1/8-in. spacers. Stiles between doors should stand exactly 1/8 in. higher than the doors. Run end stiles up to the cabinet top. Scribe and trim the wall stile if the wall is uneven.
1/8" SPACE ABOVE DOORS
END STILE
STILE
1/8" SPACERS
16
Set the upper rail over the stiles and nail it. If brads arent strong enough to hold a crooked rail in place, drive screws where theyll be hidden by trim later.
UPPER RAIL
SCREW HOLE
1/8" GAP
54
Stylish shelves
17
Center the shelf stiles using thin spacer blocks and fasten with 2-in. brads. Aim carefully so brads dont poke through the sides of the shelf unit.
SPACER BLOCK
If your rails arent perfectly straight, you might find that brads arent strong enough to hold them tightly against the stiles. Since both the upper and the lower rails get partially covered by trim, you can use screws to fasten stubborn ones (Photo 16). Just be sure to keep screws well away from the 1-in. wide area that will be exposed. Installing the shelf stiles (Photo 18) is similar to installing the cabinet stiles. You may have to scribe them to match uneven walls (see inset to Photo 15). Unlike
STILE
Choosing cabinets
We used the Fairfield line of cabinets made by Mills Pride and available at Home Depot (www.millspride.com or 800-441-0337). Unlike most cabinets, they come in flat boxesassembly required. You can fit all the cabinets youll need in your trunk, and assembly takes just a few minutes. Other cabinets will work for this project, as long as you follow a few guidelines: I Use frameless cabinets. In order to add rails and stiles as we did, you have to use frameless cabinets (also called European cabinets). Frameless cabinets are simply a box with doors mounted directly on the fronttheres no face frame (trim) attached to the front of the box. I Choose a finish you can match. Youll have to finish your bookcase to match both the sheen and the color of the manufacturers finish on the doors. Do some experiments using samples of the wood youll use for the rails, stiles and trim. Our cabinets have a natural finishno stain, just a clear coating. We found that Minwax Polycrylic satin water-based polyurethane matched the manufacturers finish almost perfectly. If you choose stained cabinets, the color is usually very difficult to match. I Select doors with simple edges. Many cabinet doors have a deep or wide profile around their outer edges. This would clash with the square edges of surrounding rails and stiles. The doors we used have only a shallow 45-degree chamfer on the outer edges.
18
Nail the ceiling rail over the shelf stiles. Leave a 1/2-in. gap above the rail to allow for an uneven ceiling. Add cove molding to cover the gap.
CEILING RAIL
19
Chamfer the nosing with a router and fasten it with glue and nails. Miter the corners. Nail quarter-round molding under the nosing.
45-DEG. CHAMFER NOSING MITERED CORNER
QUARTER ROUND
56
Stylish shelves
Dealing with outlets and registers

The easiest way to deal with an outlet that will be covered by your cabinets is to cut a hole in the cabinet back thats larger than the outlets cover plate. This looks a bit sloppy, but its perfectly safe. For a neater appearance, cut a hole thats slightly smaller than the junction box and add a box extension ($1 at home centers) so that the outlet and cover plate are mounted on the cabinet back.
JUNCTION BOX
the cabinet rails that are flush with the stiles, the ceiling rail runs across the fronts of the shelf stiles (Photo 18).
Combine homemade trim with stock moldings
CHAMFER BIT
DUCT ELBOW
BOX EXTENSION
1-1/4"
CABINET BACK
BASE
If you run into a heat register, remove the grille and measure the duct below so you can buy ductwork of the same size. Youll need a short way elbow, a short section of duct and cleats to join them (about $12 altogether at a home center). Youll also need a metal snips ($14) to cut the duct to length. It should protrude about 1-1/4 in. from the base. We ran our duct about 1/2 in. above the floor so the new grilles edge would rest on the floor. We cut notches in the base and baseboard to fit over the duct and later spray-painted the grille to match the wood finish.
We designed the trim on this project to resemble the profiles of the cabinet doors. The outer edges of the doors have a bevel, or chamfer, profile.We matched this profile on the ceiling rail, shelf nosings, cabinet top nosings and baseboard using a router and 45-degree chamfer bit (see F i gu re A). To match the quarter-round profile that surrounds the door panels, we bought 1/2-in. quarter-round molding and placed it under the cabinet top nosing and over the baseboard. Before you install any trim, smooth out any uneven spots where rails and stiles meet. This is much easier before the trim is in because you can use a random orbital sander. Use a light bead of glue and brad nails to fasten the nosing around the cabinet top and window seat (Photo 19). The rest of the trim is simply nailed in place.
Build the window seat around a cabinet

The structure of the window seat is similar to that of the lower section of the bookcase. It begins with a plywood base (Photo 20) and is built around a wall cabinet (Photo 21). The cabinet box is less than 12 in. deep, so theres about 6 in. of wasted space behind it. Because the box isnt designed to support the weight of a person, we strengthened it with a plywood divider inside. The rails, stiles and trim are identical to those on the other cabinets. The only difficult part of building the window seat is making the plywood top fit neatly against the wall and between the neighboring cabinets. Rather than fuss with the fit, we left a gap along the wall and covered it with a chamfered trim board (Photo 22). If you end up with gaps along the adjoining cabinets, you can add trim there, too.
20
Screw the sides of the window seat into place first (Figure C, p. 60). Then screw cleats to the wall studs. Nail a cleat at the front, slip the plywood base in and nail it.
SEAT SIDE 3/4" x 3" WALL CLEATS BASE COVER
3/4" x 3-1/4" FRONT CLEAT SEAT SIDE
58
Stylish shelves
Figure C Window seat details
SEAT 4"
Buying lumber and plywood
If you choose maple cabinets as we did, use birch plywood for this project. Birch plywood looks almost identical to maple and is much easier to find. Home centers usually have the lowest prices ($40 for 3/4-in. plywood), but beware of the quality.You may find that the plywood sheets have large areas of dark wood. For better-looking plywood, we paid about $60 per sheet at a traditional lumberyard.We also bought our maple boards and moldings there. The price was about the same as at our local home centers, but the quality was better. Oak boards and plywood are readily available in most areas, so oak cabinets are easy to match. If you choose cabinets made from other woods, youll have to hunt for matching materials. Lumber dealers who cater to cabinet shops carry (or can order) boards and plywood in a range of species (check the Yellow Pages under both Lumber and Cabinet Supplies). Depending on the wood, you might pay about the same as we did for maple and birch, or you might pay twice as much.
WALL CLEAT BASE 18 1/4" SEAT SIDE 4" 12"
SPACER

3 1/4" DIVIDER RAIL
STILE
CABINET

BACKING
18"
21
Center the cabinet box and screw it to the base. Install spacers and tack three layers of 3/4-in. plywood to the top of the box. Hang and align the doors so you can add the rails and stiles.
3/4" x 2" PLYWOOD STRIP
SPACER
Shopping List
PLYWOOD DIVIDER CABINET BOX
Heres what it took to cover our 12-ft. wall with a bookcase and window seat. Your shopping list will differ according to your situation. ITEM 33" x 30" wall cabinet 27" x 30" wall cabinet 36" x 12" wall cabinet 1/4" birch plywood 3/4" birch plywood 1x6 x 8' maple 1x4 x 12' maple 1x6 x 8' pine 3-1/2" maple crown molding 1/2" maple quarter-round molding Maple door stop molding 2" L-brackets Screw-in drywall anchors 1/4" shelf supports Cabinet knobs Screws: 1-1/4", 1-5/8", 2-1/2", 3-1/2" Nails for nail gun: 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2" QTY. 2 1 1 3 5 10 1 1 12' 30' 10' 10 10 36 8 1 lb. each 1 pkg. each
22
Add the seat top and trim. Hide any gaps around the window seat by nailing trim to the wall or adjoining cabinets. Add the baseboard (Figure A) and apply the finish to complete the project.
STUD LOCATION
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations FRANK ROHRBACH
60
SEPTEMBER 20 04 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
S tackable Shelves
Project facts
Cost
$250
Time
2 weekends
Skills
Beginner to intermediate
Special tools
Circular saw Jigsaw Clothes iron Fine le Laminate edge trimmer
A shop-made jig makes this project simple to build and a snap to assemble by David Radtke
f you need shelving, storage, a desk or a work surface, check out this modular system. Its got lots of storage space for your electronic gear and books and a nifty recess to accommodate a stool. And you can easily customize this system to suit your storage needs and wall space. The T-shaped standards (Photo 5) are simple to cut and glue. (We used Baltic birch because we liked the look of the multiple laminations on the edges, but any 1/2-in. hardwood plywood will do.) We chose sturdy, easy-to-clean 3/4-in. Melamine for the horizontal shelves because it has a tough, plastic-like surface, but you can use plywood, MDF (medium-density berboard) or particleboard and paint it any color you wish. More SHELVES
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN OCTOBER 2001
85
Stackable Shelves
A5 C5 B5 C5
Cutting List
KEY PCS. SIZE & DESCRIPTION
A1 A2 6 6 8" x 18" 1/2 plywood (rst-tier standard pieces) 9" x 18" 1/2" plywood (second-tier standard pieces) 19-3/4" x 18" 1/2" plywood (third-tier standard pieces) 16" x 9-1/2" 1/2" plywood (fourth-tier standard pieces) 12" x 9-1/2" 1/2" plywood (fthand sixth-tier standard pieces) 8" x 11-3/4" 1/2" plywood (standard T-end backs) 9" x 11-3/4" 1/2" plywood (standard T-end backs) 19-3/4" x 11-3/4" 1/2" plywood (standard T-end backs) 16" x 11-3/4" 1/2" plywood (standard T-end backs) 12" x 11-3/4" 1/2" plywood (standard T-end backs) 8" x 5-3/8" 1/2" plywood (standard end blocks) 9" x 5-3/8" 1/2" plywood (standard end blocks) 19-3/4" x 5-3/8" 1/2" plywood (standard end blocks) 16" x 5-3/8" 1/2" plywood (standard end blocks) 12" x 5-3/8" 1/2" plywood (standard end blocks) 21" x 84" 3/4" Melamine or other sheet good 12-1/2" x 44-3/8" 3/4" Melamine or other sheet good 3/8" x 2-1/2" steel pins 3/8" x 1-1/2" steel pins
FIG. A
A5
STACKABLE SHELVES DETAIL
A3
A5 C5 B5 C5
A5
A4
A5
D2
E1 C4
B1
B2
A4 C4 B4
C4
C4
A4
B3 3
B4
B5
E2 E1 E2 E2 C3 A3
C1 C2 C3
6 6 6
C4
B3 C3
C5 8
A3
D1 3
B3
C3
A3 A2
D2 3
A2 C2 B2 A2 A1
A1
8-7/8"
E1 E2
36 11
D1 39-5/8"
For details about materials, see p. 92.
B1 C1
A1 8-7/8" STOOL AREA 12" RAD. 3" CUTOUT TEMPLATE 86

OCTOBER 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SAW GUIDE
BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD
RIP your 1/2-in. plywood into pieces to make the standards, then cut the lengths with a circular saw. Cutting large sheets with a straightedge guide and a circular saw is easier than wrestling large sheets through a table saw.
CARPENTERS GLUE
The plywood standards and the shelves are drilled precisely with a homemade jig (Photos 4 and 6 and Fig. B) and are held together with 3/8-in. dia. steel pins. The pins slide through the shelves and into the standards, so putting this together is sort of like stacking blocks or Lego pieces.
Glue the front pieces together for each standard and then sandwich clamp them
GLUE together the two pieces that make up part A of the standards. Nail the two pieces together at two corners with 3/4-in. brads once youve aligned them. This keeps them from drifting apart when you clamp them.
2
A A 3/4" BRADS
We went to all the trouble of gluing the 1/2-in. plywood standard fronts together to create a more stable, 1-in. thick support. This thickness also allows us to use 3/8-in. pins in the assembly for more strength and sturdiness. It would take you a month of Sundays and dozens of
Text continued on p. 90
2x4 SCRAP
More SHELVES
CLAMP three laminated pairs (A) together using 2x4s to help distribute the pressure evenly across the sheet surface. Leave the assembly clamped for at least two hours.
THREE PAIRS OF STANDARD FRONTS
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Stackable Shelves
STANDARD T-END (B)
T-END BLOCKS (C) 1-1/4" SCREWS
LAMINATED STANDARD FRONT (A)
PILOT BIT
HOMEMADE JIG
GLUE AND SCREW the 1/2-in. plywood back (B) to the laminated part A to form the T-shape of the standard. Be sure to center the standard and make sure everything is aligned. The jig will help with the correct alignment.
FIT BOTTOM INTO SLOT
5
88
GLUE AND CLAMP parts C to each standard. Be sure to glue around the perimeter of each piece and also run a bead of glue along the inside corner. Use as many clamps as necessary. For tall standards you may need up to four clamps per side. Remove the standard from the jig and glue another standard together while the glue sets.
DRILLING JIG DETAIL
FIG. B
1" BETWEEN STRIPS 19-1/2"
JIG INITIAL DRILL HOLES MADE WITH 3/8" BRAD POINT
17-3/4"
25/64" STANDARD BIT 3/8" BRAD POINT AUXILIARY FENCE
3/4" GAP
BOTTOM OF JIG
BUILD A JIG TO ASSEMBLE AND DRILL THE T-SHAPED SHELF STANDARDS

You cant successfully build this project without maintaining exact consistency. This handy jig will help. You make the jig by gluing and nailing 1/2-in. plywood strips to a 3/4-in. scrap plywood base. Use a square to lay out everything precisely as shown in Fig. B. This jig helps you assemble the parts of each standard precisely. And you can ip it over and use it to accurately drill the pin holes (Photo 6). The jig will also be your guide for drilling the holes into the horizontal shelf boards, which need to perfectly align with the standards (Photo 8). All you need to do is screw an auxiliary fence to the jig to maintain the proper overhang on the front and back of each shelf.
More SHELVES
OCTOBER 2001
89
DRILL 25/64-in. dia. holes 1 in. deep into the tops and bottoms of the standards at the locations shown in Fig. B. We used a portable drilling guide (available at home centers) for precise perpendicular holes. If you have a good eye for drilling straight holes, you can drill freehand.
DRILL GUIDE
clamps to individually clamp all the standard fronts together. Instead, get all your pieces cut and ready to glue and then clamp three or four pairs together at one time as shown in Photo 3.
Measure the height and width you need for each shelf
COMPLETED STANDARD
PREDRILLED HOLE LOCATIONS
1-1/2" 4" 10"
If you plan to alter this project to suit your personal stuff, establish the height of each shelf so you can cut the plywood for the T-shaped standards. Measure the heights of things you plan to display, like a TV, stereo equipment, computer or books. Also, leave some room from the top shelf to the ceiling.
UNDERSIDE OF JIG
More SHELVES
90
Stackable Shelves
SHELVES CLAMPED TOGETHER TOP SHELF PLACED ON THE BOTTOM OF STACK
2-1/2" x 3/8" DIA. PINS
MOVABLE SPACER TO STABILIZE DRILL GUIDE
CUT the assembly pins from 3/8-in. rod using a hacksaw. File the burrs on the cut edge to make the pins easier to slip into the holes.
DRILL the pin holes in the shelves using the same 25/64-in. drill bit and an accessory fence screwed to the jig. The auxiliary fence positions the jig automatically to ensure consistent overhang from the standards. Be sure to set the depth stop on your drill so you dont drill through the top piece of your shelving unit, which is located on the bottom of the stack as shown.
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Stackable Shelves
TOP WORK SHELF
Choosing materials
Melamine is tough to cut without chipping. If this is one of your rst projects, you may want to consider using a different shelf material. In some areas, the black will be difcult to nd unless you have a fullservice lumberyard specialorder it. White Melamine, however, is sold in 3/4-in. thicknesses in most home centers. Hardwood plywood with iron-on wood edging or MDF (medium-density berboard) are excellent substitutes for 3/4-in. Melamine. You can sand the edges of MDF easily, and it paints beautifully because its so smooth. Plywood is readily available as well, but youll need either 1/4-in. glue-on strips or iron-on wood edging to cover the exposed edges. You can then stain, varnish or paint the plywood. Baltic birch may also be tough to nd in some areas. Its usually sold in 5-ft. square sheets. We used nine-ply sheets because the cut edges look great when sanded and nished. Each layer, or ply, stands out. And unlike with other plywood choices, there are no voids. You can buy Baltic birch with one good side and the other made from lower-quality veneer. This makes the most sense for this project because you can hide the bad side. You can substitute any hardwood plywood, but you may need to glue hardwood strips over the edges to hide voids.
DOUBLE-EDGE TRIMMER
PERMANENT MARKER FOR TOUCH-UPS
BACK EDGE BANDING
IRON the preglued strips onto the edges of the shelves. Use a medium to high setting on the iron. When the glue has set, use a special edge trimmer (available at home centers) for perfect edges. After trimming the edges, sand the edges lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or a fine mill file.
CARBIDETIPPED BLADE
10
BLACK MELAMINE
CUT your Melamine or plywood using a 60-tooth carbide blade in your circular saw. Cut with the good side down to minimize chipping. If youre using black Melamine, you can hide minor chipping with a permanent marker.
92
REAR WING OF T-SHAPED STANDARD
FRONT OF T-SHAPED STANDARD
OPTIONAL CUTOUTS FOR STOOL
3/8" PIN
ASSEMBLE the standards and shelves one tier at a time. Begin by positioning the bottom standards, then align the shelf and tap the pins through the shelf and into the standard.
1 1
You dont want your new shelves to sag, so dont exceed a span of 29 in. between the rear wings of the standards. The span is measured from the closest points between the T-shaped standards (Photo 11). For example, if the front edges of your standards are 38 in. apart, the rear wings of the T-shaped standards will be close to 27 in. apartwell within the limit.
Art Direction HOPE FAY
Illustration BRUCE KIEFFER
Photography BILL ZUEHLKE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
OCTOBER 2001
93
34
DECEMBER / JANUARY 2003 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
This handsome bookcase may look difcult, but weve engineered it to go together easily without special woodworking skills
Mission oak
bookcase
by David Radtke
This solid oak built-in bookcase has plenty of room for displaying your favorite books and collectibles plus lots of hidden cabinet space below. And its easy to build. Just cut the 2x4 framework Loads of adjustable from standard shelf space lumber and screw it Vertical-grain solid together. Then cut oak construction oak plywood and Easy-to-alter dimensolid oak trim and sions to t your room nail them to the Tapered columns framework. You simplied make the paneled cabinet doors with an ordinary table saw and join the face frames with an easy-to-use pocket hole jig. Another plus is that you can pick up wherever you leave off at any time. You can prebuild most of it in your garage or shop and assemble the pieces as you go. Allow about ve weekends for this project. More BOOKCASE
built-in
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
DECEMBER / JANUARY 2003
35
12' BOARD TRIM 3/16" OFF EACH SIDE
C L
FIG. A
BOOKCASE DETAILS
9-1/4" 11" WALL
USE AS PATTERN FOR N1 ALSO 3-1/4" 36" 5-1/4"
B H
10-13/16"
B E
FASTEN TO CEILING
F
PLYWOOD SEAM C L SEE DETAIL 8 (P. 47) FOR CORNICE ASSEMBLY
11-9/16"
47-11/16" 49-5/8" FROM WALL
F G
DETAIL 1
CENTER JOINT
X2
Y1
Y2
X1
Y3
3/16" WALL CLEARANCE AT BOTH SIDES
SEE DETAIL 1 (ABOVE) FOR APRON ASSEMBLY
N1
N2
1
45 MITERS NOTCH
N1 5
NOTCH CAPITAL TO FIT ARCH
B W A E H L
1-1/2"
K3 F 7 L 6 Q1 Q3 P1 10
P4
P3
SCRIBE M TO WALL
2"
Q2
1/4" DIA. HOLES
L 9
U2 G J K2 G U1 Z2 Z1
8"
1-1/2"
SEE DETAIL 9 (P. 47) FOR EXTENSION ASSEMBLY
P2
K1
V4
Q3 R1 H M F S2 V3
TRIM END OF V3 TO FIT 6"
R2 T
U1
6" 45
S1
X2
DETAIL 6
V1
V2
SEE DETAIL 4 (P. 44) FOR COLUMN ASSEMBLY
4"
C D C
SEE DETAIL 2 (P. 39) FOR BASE ASSEMBLY 45 MITERS
SEE DETAIL 3 (P. 41) FOR DOOR AND FRAME ASSEMBLY
W P1
20
W
3/4"
DETAIL 5
K3 P4
P3
1/2"
V4
15
DETAIL 7
DETAIL 10
36
Mission oak
Cutting List
KEY
A B C D E F G H J K1
bookcase
KEY
P4 Q1 Q2 Q3 R1 R2 S1 S2 T U1 U2 V1 V2 V3 V4 W X1 X2 Y1 Y2 Y3 Z1 Z2
built-in
QTY.
2 11 2 9 2 3 10 8 6 3
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3/4" x 9-1/4" x 144" pine arch (cut to t) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 10-3/8" cross ties 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 144" 2x4 base (cut to t) 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 8-7/8" 2x4 cross ties 3/4" x 5" x 11-7/8" oak llers 1/4" x 11-7/8" x 96" oak plywood rips (cut to t) 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 96" vertical supports (cut to t) 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 8-7/8" 2x4 ller blocks 3/4" x 11-7/8" x 20" oak plywood cabinet sides 3/4" x 11-7/8" x 41-1/2" oak plywood cabinet tops (cut to t) 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 40" pine cleats (cut to t) 3/4" x 10-3/4" x 40" oak plywood shelf blanks (cut to t) 3/4" x 11-7/8" x 70" oak plywood bookcase sides (cut to t) 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 84" oak ller boards (cut to t) 3/4" x 9-1/4" x 144" oak arch (cut to t) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 144" pine ller (cut to t) 3/4" x 1-3/4" oak capital face molding (cut to t) 3/4" x 1-1/2" cabinet top front molding (cut to t) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 40" oak shelf nosing molding (cut to t)
QTY.
12 4 8 4 12 6 12 6 6 6 8 4 4 4 16 ft. 10 ft. 6 1 12 ft. 12 ft. 12 ft. 3 3
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3/4" x 1" x 40" oak shelf back reinforcing slat (cut to t) 3/4" x 10" x 87" oak column blanks 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 87" oak column sides 5/16" x 3/4" x 8" oak daggers 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 11" oak door rails 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 30" oak face frame rails 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 15" oak door stiles 3/4" x 4-3/4" x 20" oak face frame stiles 1/4" x 10-7/8" x 10-7/8" oak plywood door panels 3/4" x 3/4" x 39-1/2" pine face frame cleats 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 60" pine upper column backers 1-1/2" x 4" x 8-1/2" pine column base llers 3/4" x 4" x 8-1/2" pine column base llers 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 11" oak column plinths 3/4" x 4" oak baseboards 3/4" x 1-1/4" oak capital molding 2-1/4" x 2" x 3-1/2" oak cornice blocks 2-1/4" x 6" x 6" oak keystone 3/4" x 2-3/4" oak cornice molding (cut to t) 3/4" x 2" oak cornice molding (cut to t) 3/4" x 5/8" oak cornice molding (cut to t) 3/4" x 2" x 39" oak plywood cabinet top extensions (cut to t) 3/4" x 3/4" x 39" pine top extension cleats (cut to t)
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION
1x10 x 12' No. 2 pine arches (A) 1x4 x 12' No. 2 pine (B, K2, N2) 1x6 x 8' No. 2 pine (Z2, U1, U2, V2) 2x4 x 12' pine (C) 2x6 x 8' pine (V1) 2x4 x 8' pine (G, D, H) 1/4" x 4' x 8' oak plywood (F, T) 3/4" x 4' x 8' oak plywood (J, L, K1, K3, Z1) 1x4 x 8' oak (M, W, V3, X1) 1x10 x 12' oak (N1) 1x4 x 8' oak (P1, P2, P3, Q2) 1x6 x 12' oak (E, P4, Y1, Y2, Y3, R1, R2, S1, S2) 1x6 x 8' oak (Q1) 1x6 x 16' oak base (V4) 1x8 x 2' oak (X2) 1/2" x 5-1/2" x 12' cedar siding No-mortise hinges Shelf clips Wood glue 1" nails for nail gun 1-1/2" nails for nail gun 2" nails for nail gun 10d casing nails Knobs and magnet catches for doors Stain Varnish
QTY.
2 3 3 2 1 12 1 4 5 1 8
K2 K3
3 12
5 8 1 1 1 6 pr. 48 16 ozs. 1 pkg. 1 pkg. 1 pkg. 2 doz. 6 2 qts. 3 qts.
M N1 N2 P1 P2 P3
2 1 1 6 ft. 12 ft. 12
Customize it to t your room
The bookcase measurements we give are based on our room, which has an 8-ft. ceiling and measures just a skosh over 12 ft. wide. If your room is a bit wider, just move each middle column away from the side walls by one-third of the difference. The columns near the wall stay where weve located them. For example, if your room is 12 ft. 9 in. wide, just move each center column one-third the difference of 9 in., or 3 in., farther from each wall than the measurement we give in Photo 4. If your room is taller, youll need to stretch out the section of the bookcase above the cabinet doors; your columns More BOOKCASE
BEND a piece of clear cedar siding to form an arch. Trace the curves as shown onto the two 1x10 x 12-ft. upper arch pieces of the frame. Cut these pieces 3/8 in. shorter than the width of your room so youll be able to maneuver it into position.
1/2" x 6" CEDAR SIDING
5-1/4" (CENTER) 3-1/4" (3' FROM CENTER)
1x10 x 12' PINE
1
11"
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
37
Mission oak
bookcase
will taper more gradually, but not enough to notice. Our bookcase cost about $1,400, including the hardware and nish. Thats not a lot of money compared with the price of a quality store-bought bookcase. If you shop around at local lumber suppliers, you may be able to save money. We used special rift-sawn oak, which we ordered from a local supplier. Its long, straight grain keeps the project from looking too busy and helps disguise glue joints like those in the center of the columns. The effect is a wide, evenly grained board. You can,
built-in
47-7/8" 11-7/8" 3-1/4" (FROM CORNER)
7-1/2"
ARCHED TOP ASSEMBLY

B
1x10 CUT WITH CURVE 3/8" SHORTER THAN ROOM WIDTH
CENTER
B
1 x4 x 10-3/8"
ARCHED BACK ASSEMBLY TEMPORARY STAND
CARRY the two arched aprons into your room and screw 1x4s between them as shown with 1-5/8 in. wood screws. Drill pilot and countersink holes to avoid splitting the wood. Be sure to complete the layout lines on the wall (Photo 4 and Detail 2, p. 39).
LIFT the apron assembly to the ceiling and build a temporary stand for each end to keep it tight to the ceiling as you screw it to the framing. If framing is difficult to find in key areas, use wall anchors (bottom photo, p. 39) to fasten it to the ceiling and side walls.
Undersize the upper apron and base assemblies

3-1/4" 3-1/4"
47-7/8"
47-7/8"
2x4 BASE (3/8" SHORTER THAN ROOM WIDTH)

C
2x4 x 8-7/8"
CENTER
Measure the room width at the top, middle and base of your room. Take the narrowest measurement and subtract 3/8 in. from that. This will give you just the right amount of maneuvering room to get the apron assembly (Photo 3) off the oor and up to the ceiling without having to use a sledgehammer. Do the same for the 2x4 base assembly (Photo 4).
BUILD the 2x4 base as shown in Detail 2, p. 39, and screw it to the floor with 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. steel angles. Space the 2x4 blocks so the vertical uprights marked on the walls will stand directly over them later.
38
Mission oak
bookcase
49-5/8" FROM WALL
built-in
11-3/4"
F
1/4" PLYWOOD RIPPED TO 11-7/8"
CUT two 3/4-in. x 5-in. blocks 11-7/8 in. long (E) and screw them to the underside of the aprons 11-3/4 in. from each side wall. These blocks will catch the edge of the 1/4-in. plywood top and hold it in place. Rip the 1/4-in. oak plywood to 11-7/8 in. and hold it tight to the apron while you mark the length. Install it so the splice will be hidden under the column as shown. Do the same to cover the base assembly as well. Use 1-in. finish nails in your nail gun to secure the plywood to each assembly.
however, sort through pieces at a home center and nd nice-looking pieces that will match well. Whatever wood you choose, gure on spending about 40 hours or more to build and nish this project. Youll need a table saw and a circular saw for this project, and we suggest using a pocket hole jig (see Buyers Guide, p. 47) for the face frames (Photo 10) and the cabinet top extensions (Photo 21). If youve never used a pocket hole jig, youll nd it easy to use with the instructions provided. Its a slick way to rmly hold wood joints without gluing and clamping. A doweling More BOOKCASE
Detail 2 BASE ASSEMBLY

47-7/8" FROM WALL 3-1/4" FROM WALL
SCREW VERTICAL SUPPORTS TO WALL
H
3/4" 11-7/8"
BLOCKINGH (TOP AND BOTTOM)
3/4" x 5" x 11-7/8" OAK

G
3/16" G 12' ROOM WIDTH (BUILD BASE 3/8" SHORTER) WALL
G D
3-1/16"
FASTEN TO FLOOR WITH 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" STEEL ANGLES
C L
H D
PLYWOOD SEAM
POSITION 2x4 3/4" BACK FROM LINE
47-11/16"
2x4 ON 3-1/4" LINE
Anchoring 2 x4s to drywall

E-Z Youll most likely need ANCOR to drill holes and screw the vertical supports to the drywall with screws HOLE FOR and wall anchors. Place NO. 8 x 2-1/2" the 2x4 and drill 3/16-in. SCREW holes to mark the drywall. Remove the 2x4, then screw anchors into the drywall at these locations. If theres framing behind the 2x4, screw the support directly to it with 3-in. wood screws.
FASTEN the 2x4s to the wall as shown. Use E-Z Ancors (photo at left) if wall framing isnt available behind the 2x4s. Scribe the 2x4 supports to fit under the curve. Note that the 2x4 supports on each side wall are set back 3/4 in. behind the 11-7/8 in. mark.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
39
Mission oak
bookcase
jig, however, is a good substitute for this part of the project. If you dont have an air-powered nish nailer, heres a good excuse to buy one! You can buy inexpensive nish nailers at home centers or rent them when you do the major assembly work. Id recommend an 18-gauge brad nailer ($100) for the smaller pieces of trim and a 15-gauge nish nailer ($150) for nailing the columns and baseboards in place. Youll also need a screw gun, a belt sander and a nish sander along with your basic carpentry and layout tools. Study Fig. A on p. 36 carefully for construction details, then read the text for added information and tips on building the doors, columns and cornice details. Follow the how-to photos as a step-by-step guide to the building process.
Sand plywood sides, columns and door assemblies before you install them. Youll do a better job if you avoid working in difcult, strained positions.
built-in
1/4" HOLES SPACED 2" APART
KEEP HOLES 1-1/2" FROM EDGE
K1 L
K1
8" 3/4" PLYWOOD SIDES 3/4" PLYWOOD TOP
Tip
RIP 3/4-in. oak plywood to 11-7/8 in. and then drill 1/4-in. holes for standard shelf clips. Use a strip of 1/4-in. Peg-Board as a template for the shelf clip holes. Drill the holes, positioning the template to the bottom of each piece to ensure the shelves will be level when installed.
Measure carefully as you lay out the room
N2 1-1/4" PINE
SPACERS
N1
CENTER JOINT
1-3/4" CAPITAL MOLDING
FEATHERBOARD
P1
NAIL a 3/4-in. x 1-1/4 in. filler to the top of the apron assembly, then nail the arched 1x10 oak pieces (cut in half to fit) to the apron assembly. Scribe the pieces to the side walls if necessary. The center joint will be covered by the keystone trim later.
9
40
SET your saw to 20 degrees and taper the upper capital molding and the top shelf face molding (Fig. A). Make the front shelf molding in the same manner, only cut it from 1-1/2 in. strips.
The design of this project is forgiving for rooms that are a bit out of whack. If one of your side walls is out of plumb slightly, the taper of the columns will disguise it. If your oor slopes slightly from left to right, its best to split the difference and make it ow with the room rather than trying to level the whole project. Just be sure to install the 2x4 verticals plumb. The odd measurement of 11-7/8 in. for the depth allows you to cut four sides (Photo 7) from a single sheet of 4 x 8-ft. oak plywood. We More BOOKCASE
Mission oak
bookcase
found that even oversized books t comfortably on the bookcase, especially on the cabinet tops just above the doors. Here the depth increases to nearly 14-3/4 in. Follow Photos 2 6 to get your layout lines in the right spots.
Buy good framing lumber
built-in
S2
FACE FRAME
R2
RAIL
KREG POCKET HOLE JIG (MODEL R-2)
Its essential to use straight 2x4s and 3/4-in. boards to get the skeletal part of the bookcase correct. Bows and twists will make your job more difcult. Buy a couple of extra pieces and store all your lumber in the house for about a week to acclimate it. Central heating has a way of taking a reasonably straight piece of lumber and quickly turning it into a banana. If you buy lumber at a home center where the stuff is reasonably dry and stored inside, you can usually assume itll hold its shape. More BOOKCASE
10
BUILD the face frames as shown in Detail 3 using the pocket hole jig (see Buyers Guide, p. 47). The jig drills holes at sharp angles to connect the stiles and rails tightly without glue. If you have a doweling jig, this will work as well.
Detail 3 DOOR AND FRAME ASSEMBLY

POCKET SCREW (TYPICAL) C L
R1 R2
1/2"
1/4"
S2
CUT DOOR STILES
R1
1-1/4" SQUARE WOOD PULL NO-MORTISE HINGE
T
1/2" 1/4"
DOOR RAIL
S1
R2
MAINTAIN 1/16" CLEARANCE ON ALL SIDES OF DOORS
S1
R1
S1
1/4" GROOVE BLADE SET 1/2" ABOVE
CAUTION: GUARD MUST BE REMOVED FOR THIS PROCEDURE.
1/2" PLYWOOD CLAMPED TO TABLE SAW
CAUTION: GUARD MUST BE REMOVED FOR THIS PROCEDURE.
R1
DOOR RAIL
11
GROOVE the inside edges of stiles and rails for each door using a table saw. Cut the 1/2-in. deep grooves in the center of the edge. Run the piece through on one side, then flip it end-for-end and run it through on the other side to ensure the groove is centered. Because we had a wide throat plate space next to our saw blade, we measured to our fence first, lowered the blade, then installed a 1/2-in. piece of plywood on the saw table and raised the blade. This gave us a safe, stable, flat surface to cut the grooves.
12
CUT tenons on each end of the door rails using your table saw fence as a guide. The tongues should be 1/2 in. long and must fit snugly into the grooves of the stiles. Cut a test piece first to get the right setting.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
41
Mission oak
bookcase
Use a strip of 1/4-in. Peg-Board as a drilling guide
built-in
1/4" PLYWOOD PANEL
S1
S1
DOOR STILES DOOR RAILS

R1 R1
13
ASSEMBLE the doors as shown. First, glue the tenons of the top rail into the grooves of the stiles, then slip the plywood panel in place. No need to glue the plywood; just let it float in the grooves. The plywood should be 1/8 in. narrower and shorter than the distance from groove to groove to ensure a foolproof assembly. Clamp When you glue up your door pieces, apply the doors, making sure they lie flat. Clamps can pull the glue both to the sides of the tenon and in frames and warp them if youre not careful.
Getting precise holes into the 3/4-in. plywood sides for your shelf supports is a must for a project like this. To make a foolproof template, rip a 3-in. wide strip from a sheet of Peg-Board (use the rest of it to organize your shop space). Label the top and bottom, then use small brads to temporarily tack it to each panel. The holes on the Peg-Board are spaced every 2 in. Tape over the holes you wont be using. Then drill 1/4-in. holes 1/2 in. deep into the panels (J and L). Buy a stop collar and a new brad point bit to get clean, unsplintered holes. We left 8 in. free of holes on the bottom of each side panel, since it would be useless to position a shelf any lower. Reuse this same strip for each piece. Dont be sloppy here or you could widen the holes of your template and pay the price with uneven shelves.
U1
FACE FRAME CLEAT
Tip
the groove where the tenon will t. Dont use too much glue or youll have extra scraping and sanding to do when it oozes. A good glue job will force only tiny beads from the joint as you clamp it.
FACE FRAME SET INTO OPENING
RAIL SECTION
NOMORTISE HINGES
Make the doors with your table saw
STILE SECTION FACE FRAME
S1 R1
14
INSTALL no-mortise hinges (see Buyers Guide) on the stiles and the door edges before installing the face frames in the bookcase. Make sure to leave 1/16-in. clearance between the doors and the face frame. If necessary, use a belt sander to fit the doors precisely in the face frame openings. Attach the knobs to the doors, hang them on the hinges and nail the assembly to 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. pine strips set back and glued into the cabinets.
You wont need a router or a shaper or even a dado blade for your table saw to make these simple doors. A standard carbide blade set at the correct height and some careful fence adjustments will give you great results. The key to success here is to use sacricial scraps to get your settings just right. It usually takes a bit of tweaking to get your setups just right. Start by cutting the grooves. Set the fence just a hair over 1/4 in. from the blade, then lower the blade below the table. For safety, place a 1/2-in. piece of plywood over the blade area and against the fence and clamp it to the saw table (Photo 11). Start your saw and raise the blade until it comes through about 3/4 in. Shut off the More BOOKCASE
42
Mission oak
bookcase
Detail 4 COLUMN ASSEMBLY
2" 6" 2" TAPER SIDES
built-in
3/4" BLOCK SCREWED TO PLYWOOD
Q1
Q2
INNER EDGE FLUSH WITH JIG
87"
TRIM TOPS TO FIT N2 ARCH
SAVE THESE PIECES TO HELP MAKE SQUARE CUTS LATER

Q1
Q1
3/4" BLOCK SCREWED TO PLYWOOD
GLUE SANDPAPER TO JIG HOLD-DOWN 2"
10"
TOP
12" WIDE 1/2" PLYWOOD SLAB
15
GLUE and clamp two pieces of 1x6 x 87-in. oak together and then rip them to 10 in. wide, keeping the glue joint at the center. Square both ends. Cut tapers on each side of each of the blanks using the homemade taper jig shown. Set the fence 12 in. from the blade, then rip a piece of plywood and cut it to 87 in. long. Cut a 2-in. taper on one side of each blank as shown, aligning the backside of the blank with the inner edge of the plywood and letting the side to be tapered hang over 2 in. as shown. Clamp the board with the jig levers over the board and run it through the saw.
PREVIOUSLY CUT EDGE
Q1
TOP 2" NEW BLOCK LOCATION
2"
16
REPOSITION the block in your jig and cut the opposite side of each blank. Always have the top of the blank at the tapered end of the jig and the wide base end even with the inner edge of the jig. Move the workpiece through, making sure the plywood is tight to the fence and have an outfeed stand to support the jig as it leaves the saw. Next, glue and finish-nail 3/4-in. x 1-1/4 in. strips (Q2) to the sides of each column as shown in Detail 4 to give the columns a heavier and deeper look. Once the glue is dry, sand them with 100-grit sandpaper followed by 150-grit sandpaper.
saw and lower the blade until its 1/2 in. above the plywood surface. Now, start the saw and run the scrap piece through the blade on edge as shown in Photo 11. When youve made the cut, ip the piece end-for-end and run the other side of the board through the blade, keeping it tight against the fence. Now test the groove by slipping in a piece of 1/4-in. plywood. It should slide into the groove without your pushing it rmly. If the t is too loose, move the fence slightly away from the blade. If the t is too tight, move the fence closer to the blade. Now cut all the inside edges of the rails and stiles. Make your tenons by setting the fence exactly 1/2 in. from the blade (dont use the 1/2-in. plywood on top of your saw for this). Raise the blade 1/4 in. Make sure your miter gauge for your saw is set at 90 degrees. Push your scrap piece through the saw, keeping it rmly against the miter gauge and the fence. After one pass, move it away More BOOKCASE
44
Mission oak
bookcase
from the fence about 1/8 in. and send it through again. Continue until youve completed that side of the tenon. Then ip it over and do the other side. If there are some saw marks, scrape them off with a at le. Test-t your tenon in the groove youve just made. If it ts too tightly, raise the blade just slightly and recut the piece. If the t is loose, lower the blade slightly and try another test piece. When youve got it right, cut the ends on all of the door rails as shown in Photo 12.
Make your cornice blocks from built-up strips
built-in
V3
11" 3-1/2"
OAK PLINTH
V2
3/4" x 4" x 8-1/2" BLOCK
V1
1-1/2" x 4" x 8-1/2" BLOCK
17
RIP 2x6 and 1x6 pine to 4-in. widths and nail them to the base assembly at the center of each 2x4 vertical support. These pieces will support the base cap. Next, wrap these supports with 3/4-in. x 4-in. oak base pieces and continue installing these base pieces between the column bases.
3/4" x 1-1/4" PINE BACKER STRIPS
You could special-order thick slabs of wood for the cornice detail at the top of the bookcase (Photo 20), but thats impractical when youve got plenty of small scrap left over. Cut three Youll nd that your square strips to size from is of little use when you 3/4-in. oak for the need to cut the tops of cornice blocks and your two side column the keystone. Glue assemblies to length. and clamp them.
Tip
To mark a square cut, tape the discarded strip from your taper cut (Photo 15) to the side of your column. Then use your square to mark a straight line and your circular saw to make the cut.
DOUBLE LAYER
W
3/4" x 1-1/4" CAPITAL MOLDING 1-1/4" STRIPS GLUE FLUSH WITH EDGE
P1
Q1 Q2
INNER SIDE IS NOT NOTCHED
1-3/4" TAPERED CAPITAL MOLDING
Q2
19
PRESTAIN M AND V4
FIT the capital moldings around the tops of the columns. Use a double layer at the top to build out the surface and notch these layers around the lower edge of the curve. Place the 3/4-in. x 1-3/4 in. tapered molding directly below and nail it in place with the brad nailer.
18
SET the columns onto the base caps and mark each side of the column where it meets the upper arch. Be sure the column is centered on the 2x4 support behind. Build up the upper face of the 2x4 supports with 1-1/4 in. deep strips to ensure the column lies 1-1/4 in. in front of the oak arch. Nail the columns to these strips and to the face of the 2x4 and face frame below with 10d finish nails.
46
Mission oak
bookcase
When the glue is dry, belt-sand them smooth on each side and then nish-sand them. Use your jigsaw or a miter saw to cut the keystone angles.
built-in
X2 Y1 Y3 Y2
Buyers Guide
X1
Get a pair of no-mortise hinges (part No. 90437; $2.99) from Rockler Hardware (800-279-4441; www. rockler.com). Package of 16 shelf clips (part No. 33894; $3.69).
Y3
Detail 8 CORNICE ASSEMBLY

Y2 Y1 Y3 X1
Buy the Kreg pocket hole jig kit (part No. Kreg R-2; $59.95) and an extra pack of 1-1/4 in. pocket screws ($5.50) from 7 Corners Hardware (800-3280457). www.7corners.com Ace oil stain in Early American. Buy it at your local Ace Hardware.
CUT cornice blocks from 3/4-in. oak, then stack them in layers and glue them to achieve the 2-1/4 in. thickness. Make the tapered keystone center block in the same manner. Predrill, glue and hand-nail the cornice blocks to the curved apron with 10d finish nails. Next cut the cornice strips on the table saw and nail them in layers between the blocks with your finish nailer.
20
Detail 9 EXTENSION ASSEMBLY

POCKET SCREW
MINDS HIS Ps AND Q s
P2
Z1
3/4" 20
K1 U1
Z2 R2 P2
V4
Q1 Q2
22
Z1 Z2
GLUE and nail the top shelf edge molding to the top shelf, extending it 1-1/2 in. onto each column. To finish the building process, make the shelves as shown in Detail 10, p. 36, to fit between the vertical bookcase sides. (Youll also need to make three narrower shelves if you want extra storage inside the cabinets. Measure and cut them to fit.) Sand your bookcase with 100-grit sandpaper followed by 150-grit. Stain (see Buyers Guide) then finish it with two coats of satin urethane or your choice of varnish.
21
FASTEN the front top extensions with your pocket hole jig. Nail a 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. strip to the top of the face frame and glue the extension to this for added support.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Illustrations EUGENE THOMPSON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Project Design DAVID RADTKE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
47
34
FEBRUARY 2004 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Maximize
your closet!
Double your closet capacity with smart and efficient built-ins, shelving and rod space
by Travis Larson
s your closet too small and overstuffed? Do your cluttered shelves, packed and sagging clothes rods, and jumbled shoes all cry out for more space? Of course, the coolest solution would be to expand the existing closet, but thats usually impossible. Instead, you can organize your existing closet to make every cubic inch count and get more dresser space to boot. Its surprisingly easy and economical to squeeze more storage out of limited space. In this story, well show you how to remodel a standard 8-ft. long, 30-in. deep closet, a size thats found in millions of homes. Heres what weve done to maximize storage.
Cabinet module: The 2-ft. wide, 23-in. deep, 78-in. tall cabinet module is
designed to provide extra drawer and shelving space. The unit is mounted 6 in. above the oor for easy cleaning. The mounting height also makes installation easier because you dont have to fool with removing and reinstalling carpeting or baseboards.
Clothes rods: Rod capacity is maximized
because the rods are double-stacked at one end of the closet for shorter clothes like shirts and skirts. The single rod at the other end of the closet is for slacks and dresses.
Shoe shelves: To tame shoe
scatter, weve designed a twotier shoe shelf. Including the space under the shelves, youll have 9 luxurious ft. of shoe storageenough for even those beat-up, knockabout shoes you cant bear to part with.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN FEBRUARY 2004
35
Maximize your closet!
SET ON COTTON
LAMINATE ROLLER
IRON-ON EDGE BANDING SHELF BRACKET
RIPPING JIG SIDE
BOTTOM
Cut the sides to length and width using a ripping jig (p. 39). Rip the drawer dividers to width only. Cut the angles on the front edge of each cabinet side.
Clean off any sawdust on the edges and then iron the edge banding onto the outside edges of the sides and the two lengths of drawer divider stock.
30-3/4"
6"
DRILL STOP LEFT SIDE
EDGE-BANDING TRIMMER
RIGHT SIDE
Trim the overhanging edges of the edge banding with a trimming tool, then file and sand the edges smooth and flush with the edge.
Mark the shelf bracket hole locations on pegboard and use it as a drilling template. Flip the pegboard to drill the other side.
Custom-build your own closet system

Its easy to upgrade the typical single rod and shelf found in standard closets for more efficient closetry. Home centers offer several lines of mix-andmatch closet cabinets and organizers so you can design and install a custom closet system. Those systems look inexpensiveuntil you start adding up all the parts! A similar-size
Melamine cabinet module alone will cost about $300. We offer a more handsome, lower-cost alternative custom-building your own. For that same $300, youll have a closet full of cabinetry thats so doggone goodlooking that youll want to leave the closet doors open. This project doesnt call for any fancy woodworking joints. All the parts are end-cut and simply screwed
36
together. While that makes for easy construction, it means youll have to use plywood-core, veneered plywood (any avor) because itll hold screws and has a smooth, even surface ready for nishing. If you want to use particleboard-core sheets, plan on joining parts with biscuits, dowels or any other fastening system youre familiar with. We chose birch plywood to match the bedrooms existing
Figure A Closet assembly

11-1/4" WIDE SHELF 1" OVERHANG 15" WIDE SHELF
14"
80" (DRESSES) 74" (SLACKS) TO FLOOR
3-1/2" HANGING STRIP FROM SCRAP
82" TO FLOOR
2" IRON-ON BANDING 3/4" PLYWOOD CABINET SIDES 22-1/4" WIDE SHELVES (CUT 1" SHORT OF FRONT) 24" 78" 1/4" PLYWOOD BACK 3-1/2" 7-1/4" FINISH WASHERS AND SCREWS DRAWER A 30-3/4" 22-1/2" WIDE DRAWER DIVIDERS SEE FIGURE B FOR DRAWER DETAILS BOTTOMMOUNT DRAWER SLIDES CLOTHES ROD AND BRACKETS 42" 4-1/2" CLEATS FROM SCRAP
1/2" DEEP HOLES, (DIA. TO MATCH SHELF BRACKET)
7-1/4"
DRAWER B
9" DRAWER B 23"
6" 16"
DRAWER C
1/2" WALL CLEARANCE
HANGING STRIP
8" TO FLOOR
6"
Materials List
ITEM 3/4" plywood 1/2" plywood (buy a 4x4 sheet if its available) 1/4" plywood Iron-on edge banding Construction adhesive Woodworking glue 8' chrome closet rods 6' chrome closet rods Closet rod end brackets QTY. 3 sheets 1 sheet 1 sheet 3 rolls 1 tube 1 1 3 sets 50 40 12 4 sets 4 (or 8) 12
Figure B Drawer assembly

1/2" PLYWOOD SIDES AND ENDS IRON-ON EDGE BANDING
20-1/2" (INSIDE) 2-1/4" (A) 6" (B) 7-3/4" (C)
22"
PULL
No. 8 nish washers No. 8 2" oval head screws No. 8 3" oval head screws 22" Liberty bottom-mount drawer slides Drawer pulls Shelf brackets
1/4" x 21-1/2" x 22" PLYWOOD BOTTOM 3/4" PLYWOOD FACE (SEE TEXT FOR DETERMINING HEIGHTS)
24"
37
5TH DRAWER DIVIDER
SCRAP
EDGE-BAND ONE EDGE
22-1/2"
22-1/2"
DRAWER DIVIDERS
BOTTOM DRAWER DIVIDER
CROSSCUT JIG
Cut the five edge-banded drawer dividers to length with the crosscutting jig, four from one length and one from the other.
Screw a scrap to the top of the cabinet, spacing the sides 22-1/2 in. apart, then clamp the bottom drawer divider between the sides. Predrill and fasten.
1/4" PLYWOOD
(FINISHED SIDE DOWN)
2" 2"
DRAWER DIVIDERS
SPACER BLOCK CENTER SPACER BLOCK
BRAD NAILER
1" PINS
Stand the cabinet upright and rip spacer blocks from scrap to space and support the other drawer dividers as you screw them into place.
Glue and pin the cabinet back to the sides and dividers to square the cabinet. Then glue and pin the hanging strips to the back and sides.
woodwork. All of the materials shown are found at any well-stocked home center. See the list on p. 37. As for tools, you dont need much aside from a good circular saw, a screw gun, a carpenters square and two NO. 8 FINISH 30-in. bar WASHER clamps.Youll also have to blow the
38
dust off the clothes iron and use it to apply the edge banding (Photo 2). But there are a few other optional tools youll nd useful. While it is possible to hand-nail the parts together, a brad nailer (Photo 8) will speed up construction. (Since you can now buy a brad nailer for under $100, this project is a good excuse to add it to the toy collection.) Also pick up an edge-banding
2" NO. 8 OVAL HEAD SCREW
trimmer for quick, accurate edge trimming (less than $10; Photo 3).
Building the cabinet box

Start the project by cutting the cabinet box sides (Photo 1) and two 23-in. wide lengths for the drawer dividers; see Photos 1 and 5. Consult Figure A on p. 37 for all of the cutting dimensions. Before you cut the drawer dividers to length, edge-band one
Cutting plywood with simple jigs and a circular saw

If you have a full-size table saw, greatyoull be able to use it for most of the plywood cuts. If you have a portable table saw, use it for the smaller ripping jobs like making the shelving and drawer parts. But you can also do a ne job with only a circular saw tted with a plywood blade and a couple of simple, screw-together jigs made from cheap Melamine closet shelving stock.
FENCE STOP 4" 6" 3" FACTORY EDGE 3" 6" FACTORY EDGE
FACTORY EDGE
Ripping jig: Use an 8-ft. length of 16-in. wide shelving to build the ripping jig. Draw a line 3 in. from the edge and cut along it with the circular saw. Screw this piece to the larger piece about 3 in. away from one edge with the factory edge facing the widest section of shelving as shown. Then use that edge as a guide to cut off the Melamine. Now its just a matter of lining up that edge with marks on plywood stock and clamping it to make perfect cuts up to 8 ft. long on any piece of plywood (Photo 1).
Crosscutting jig: You can use the ripping jig for crosscutting, too, but this crosscutting jig has the advantage of a stop on the bottom. Push the stop against the plywood, align it with the cutting mark and clamp for quick, accurate crosscuts. Make it from a 4-ft. length of 24-in. wide Melamine shelving (or plywood if wide shelving isnt available). Cut a 4-in. wide strip for the stop from one end and another 4-in. wide strip from one edge for the fence. Align the factory edge of the short piece
with the factory edge at the other end of the shelving to make the stop. Then clamp and screw the two pieces together while checking alignment with a carpenters square. Flip the jig over and measure from the long factory edge 6 in. to position and screw the long saw guide as shown. The key with both jigs is to use the straight factory edges for guiding the saw.
edge. That way the exposed edges will be nished before theyre cut to length (Photo 5). Before you assemble the cabinet, drill the holes for the adjustable shelving. We show the old trick of using a pegboard jig for consistent hole spacing (Photo 4). Because the sides taper, youll have to shift over a row or two of holes to keep the narrower top shelf brackets within a few inches of the front. Try to keep the front and rear holes about 2 in. from the edge. Buy a drill bit that matches the shaft on the shelving brackets that you chose. Its best to use a brad point drill bit to keep from splintering the veneer.
Either use a depth stop or mark the drill bit with a piece of tape to keep from drilling through the plywood. Begin assembling the cabinet on its back by attaching a spacer strip at the top and then screwing the bottom drawer divider into place (Photo 6). Predrill with a 1/8-in. bit and drive 2-in. long No. 8 oval head screws with nish washers (p. 38). Then stand the cabinet and, using spacer blocks ripped from scraps, position and hold the drawer dividers in place while you screw them to the sides. Keeping the dividers tight to the spacers as you screw them into place is important for the drawers to work properly.
39
Edge-banding basics
If youve never used iron-on edge banding, itll only take you a couple of attempts to achieve prociency. Dont worry if you make a mistake; run the iron over it again and the heat-sensitive glue will release so you can adjust the piece and iron it back on again. Cut each strip of banding about 1 in. extra long with a sharp scissors. Leave about 1/2 in. IRON-ON or more of banding EDGE BANDING

OPENING HEIGHT MINUS 1-1/4" OPENING HEIGHT 1/4" GAP
(USE PLYWOOD SPACER)
1/4" PLYWOOD
FLUSH WITH FRONT FLUSH WITH FRONT
SIDE 1-1/4" SHORT OF OPENING
FRONT OR BACK
1/2" PLYWOOD DRAWER SLIDE
Glue and pin the drawer sides together with 1-in. brads. Before the glue sets, square each drawer by gluing and pinning the bottom in place.
10
Screw the drawer slides into the cabinet and bottom edges of the drawer boxes. Slide each drawer into place to check the fit.
NO EDGE BAND
EDGE BAND
MARK AND CUT AT CENTER OF DIVIDERS EDGE BAND
LEAN CABINET AGAINST WALL
EDGE BAND TWO QUARTERS
EDGE BAND
CLEAT
11
Set the drawer front panel (edge-banded on three sides) on a temporary cleat screwed to the cabinet bottom. Mark and cut the lowest drawer front. Edge-band the raw edges.
12
Space each panel two quarter thicknesses apart, then measure and cut the next. Edge-band the two raw edges that meet, then repeat the procedure for the next panel.
overhanging the starting corner because it tends to creep when you iron it. Move the iron along (set on cotton) at about 1 in. per second all the way to the other end, guiding it with your other hand as you go. As you guide it, make sure the banding edges hang over each side of the plywood. Before it cools, push a block or roller over it to embed the banding. Then let the banding cool for 30 seconds or so
and check for voids. Re-iron and embed any loose spots. Cut the ends as close to the plywood as possible with the scissors and then run the edge-band trimmer down both sides to trim off the overhang. Youll have to make multiple passes to get all of the spots ush. The trimmer works best if you trim with the grain. Sometimes that means reversing direction in the middle of trimming.
42
Use a le held at a 45-degree angle to remove oozed-out glue and banding thats still a little proud, then sand all the joints smooth with a sanding block and 100-grit paper. Youll save a lot of time simply by edge-banding all the parts after ripping them to width and before cutting them to length. Then you wont have so many individual parts to edge-band, or those pesky short drawer front ends to deal
13
Place crumpled newspaper behind each drawer and replace the drawers. They should stick out about 1/2 in. beyond the cabinet front.
14
Apply four beads of construction adhesive to the drawer boxes and restack the drawer fronts, spacing them with double quarters.
NO STUD HANGING STRIP
STUD MARK EDGE ON WALL
HANGING STRIP
15
Lay a board across each edge of the fronts and clamp overnight. Then drive four 1-in. screws through each box into the fronts.
16
Set cabinet on blocks and center it in closet. Plumb it, shimming as needed, and drill 1/8-in. pilot holes through the cleats into studs or drywall.
with. Pay attention to the simple little clamping tip shown in Photo 2. Screw a shelf bracket down and clamp the wood to it. Thatll hold the pieces steady for edge banding.
Drawer construction
The prospect of building drawers makes most neophyte woodworkers knees rattle, but dont worryits not all that hard. The key is to build the
cabinet and the drawer boxes square. If youre using drawer slides other than the ones we call for, be sure to read the directions before building the drawers. Theyll tell you the necessary height and side-to-side clearances. Building a square drawer is easy if you pin together the sides and then square them up with the plywood bottom before the glue dries (Photo 9). Accurate side-to-side dimensions are
43
crucial.You can always shim out the drawer slides if the drawers are a little narrow, but if theyre too wide, youll have to rebuild them. Now is a good time to nish ripping and edge-banding your adjustable and xed shelves. Dont cut them to nal width until the cabinet is mounted so you can measure and cut exact widths to t their selected positions. Stain and nish everything at the same time

STUD CABINET SIDE HOLLOW WALL ANCHOR 1/2" SHORT OF WALL HANGING STRIP
LEAVE 7/8" SPACE FOR BOX CLEARANCE SCREW CABINET TO BOX
17
Remove the cabinet and screw drywall anchors into the holes without stud backing. Reposition the cabinet and screw it to the wall.
18
Build the shoebox about 1/2 in. short of the wall. Screw a cleat to the wall, then screw the box to the cabinet and nail it to the cleat.
19
Screw the closet rod brackets to the cleats and the cabinet, then install the clothes rods. Cut the top shelves and fasten them to cleats (Figure A).
20
Add the drawer pulls and adjustable shelves, then fill it up. Still not enough space? Donate whatever doesnt fit!
prior to installation. We used an oil-based honey maple stain and topcoated it with two coats of satin polyurethane.
Making it t in your closet

The cabinet unit is 78 in. tall, so it will t in any closet with 8-ft. walls, even with the 6-in. gap at the oor. Alter the height if you have a lower ceiling. Youll have to set the cabinet aside
before mounting it to install drywall anchors unless youre lucky enough to have the cabinet fall in front of two studs. Position the cabinet in the closet, then plumb and mark the wall (Photo 17) so the pilot holes line up with the anchors after you reset it. Then measure to the wall to determine the nal length for the top shelfdont forget to add 1 in. for the left-side overhang. Place cleats
44
and shelves anywhere you wish. Build the cabinet taller, wider or with more drawers. Drawer sizes can be easily altered toomake deeper ones for sweaters or shallower ones for socks. The project how-tos shown will work for any conguration that best suits your needs.
Art Direction HOPE FAY and BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
Lighted di s pl a y cabinet
Halogen lights and glass doors let your collection shine.
by Bruce Kieffer and David Radtke
Whether youre looking to store your CDs or show off your collectibles, heres a great-looking display cabinet you can build. The version with wood shelves is an entertainment library for CDs and videocassettes. With glass shelves, its a curio cabinet (see next page). Either way, the halogen lights you install in the top of the cabinet do a beautiful job of highlighting your collection.
31-1/2 wide x 52 high x 12-3/4 deep
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
NOVEMBER 1997
55
Lighted displaycabinet
Best of all, you wont have to run around looking for specialty hardware. We beat the pavement for you and put the specialty hardware and lights into a kit you can order by mail (see Shopping List below). The kit even includes the bun feet, so you dont have to worry about turning them on a wood lathe. The only things you need to get locally are the wood, glass and screws. The glass door hardware doesnt require drilling into the glass. The hinges clamp to the glass with set screws, and they pivot in small holes drilled in the top and bottom of the cabinet. The doors are held shut with small magnetic touch latches. The latch strike plates are friction-t over the edges of the doors. To open or close a door, you just gently press in on the strike plate. Have your local glass company cut your 1/4-in. thick glass doors (look in the Yellow Pages under Glass) and glass shelves (for curio version only) and have them polish the glass edges smooth. Quarter-inch glass is tough, but if you have small children, you may want to use laminated safety glass or tempered glass. Do not use plain single- or double-strength glass. Make sure to tell them that the doors must be exactly 14-1/16 in. x 46-5/8 in., and check the dimensions before you accept delivery. Either version of the cabinet will take you about 24 hours to build. The curio version will cost about $340 (more if you opt for safety glass), the entertainment library version, about $240.
BEFORE YOU START
Order the Display Cabinet Hardware Kit and buy the other materials youll need (see the Shopping List). Gather all the tools shown in the Tool List on p. 62, plus your standard carpentry tools. The Tool To save you time, weve List shows three special cutting tools: a 14mm brad put all of the specialty point bit for drilling the holes for the touch latches, a 2-1/8 hardware, lights and in. dia. hole saw for drilling bun feet into a kit the holes for the lights, and a 23/32-in. dia. router bit for you can mail order cutting the dadoes for the for $129.99, which 3/4-in. thick plywood. If you dont own these tools, you includes shipping.
Shopping List
ITEM QTY. 1x6 x 8 birch 2 pieces 3/4 x 48 x 96 birch plywood 1 sheet 1/4 x 29 x 44 birch plywood 1 piece Display Cabinet Hardware Kit* 1 8 No. 10 x 2 pan head screws No. 8 x 2-1/2 drywall screws 6 No. 6 x 1-1/4 drywall screws 8 No. 6 x 1-1/4 drywall screws 12 2 1/4 x 14-1/16 x 46-5/8 clear glass for doors 1/4 x 9-3/4 x 28-7/16 clear glass for shelves 4 1 Spray primer, 12-oz. can 1 Black spray enamel, 12-oz. can Danish oil nish 1 quart *Available from The Woodworkers Store, Dept. TFH, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340; (800) 2794441. TFH Display Cabinet Hardware Kit, No. 10059, $129.99. Kit includes two 20-watt halogen lights, 12-volt transformer, junction box for the lights, recessed on/off ip switch, two pairs of glass door pivot hinges, two door strike plates, two magnetic touch latches, 20 brass pin-style shelf supports and four 2-3/4 x 4-3/4 dia. bun feet. Kit price includes shipping cost. Add these for the entertainment library version. Add these for the curio version.
56
NOVEMBER 1997 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
can order them from the same source and at the same time you order the Display Cabinet Hardware Kit (see the Shopping List). Getting the cabinet parts to go together properly requires precise layout of the 23/32-in. wide dado grooves for the nominal 3/4-in. plywood. Closely follow the dimensions given in Fig. B on p. 60. Your layouts must match those dimensions exactly. To ensure that you dont make any mistakes, double-check all of your layouts, and test your router setups on scrap wood before making your nal cuts. All right, lets build it. Heres how its done.
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS 1. Cut all the pieces A through P to the
To make the best use of the overhead halogen lighting in the entertainment library version, the wood shelves stop a good 2 in. short of the front of the cabinet. The light reaches every corner, so all of your titles are easy to nd.
1
CUT the 1/4-in. thick bottom edging piece off a solid 3/4-in. thick piece. If your saw has a small motor, set the blade to cut halfway through, and make two cuts.
BOTTOM EDGING PIECE
TABLE SAW
WARNING: GUARD REMOVED FOR PHOTOUSE YOURS!

GLUE and clamp the side edging pieces to the sides. Align the edging so its 1/4 in. in on both ends, and so it slightly overhangs both plywood faces.
SIDE 1/4"
dimensions given in the Cutting List on p. 62. Cut the 1/4-in. thick bottom edging (K) from the edge of a 3/4-in. thick piece (Photo 1). 2. Glue and clamp together the two bottom pieces (A). After the glue is dry, cut the bottom to 13-1/4 in. x 32-1/2 in. long. 3. Glue and clamp the side edging pieces (H) to the sides (C), as shown in Photo 2). Also glue and clamp the top rail (F) to the inside top (D), and the bottom rail (F) to the bottom shelf (D). 4. Glue the shelf edging pieces (N) to the front edges of the shelves (E). Hold them in place with masking tape as the glue dries (Photo 3). Once the glue is dry, remove the masking tape and trim off the overhanging ends. 5. Cut the bottom edging piece (K) into three pieces (slightly longer than needed to cover the edges of the bottom). Glue and clamp (with
SIDE EDGING
EDGING PIECE
USE masking tape to hold the 1/4-in. thick edging pieces while the glue dries. Start at one end and work to the other end, placing the tape at 3-in. intervals.
MASKING TAPE
SHELF
HANDSCREW CLAMP
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
NOVEMBER 1997
57
Fig. A Display Cabinet Details

3/8" DIA. 7-3/8" 1/4" 2-1/8" DIA. HOLES 1-1/16" C L 3-1/2" (CASSETTE TAPES) 5" (VCR TAPES) 6" (CDS) 1/4"
NO. 6 x 1-1/4" DRYWALL SCREW (3 PER STOP)
14-1/4" 14MM DIA. HOLES 3/4"
5/8"
N DETAIL 2SHELVES
DETAIL 1 SHELF AND RAILS
L
(SEE FIG. B FOR TOP DETAILS)
L B
SEE FIG. C FOR WIRING DIAGRAM TOUCH LATCH (2 REQD.)
12-VOLT TRANSFORMER
1
JUNCTION BOX
D F
NO. 6 x 1-1/4" DRYWALL SCREW (8 REQD.)
STRIKE PLATE (2 REQD.)
J
RECESSED FLIP SWITCH (NO STOPS IN CURIO CABINET)
INSET HALOGEN LIGHT (2 REQD.)
G 2 E N M
PIN-STYLE SHELF SUPPORTS
1/4" GLASS SHELF (CURIO CABINET ALTERNATIVE; SEE TEXT)
P J (6 REQD.;
GLUE TO BACK AND SIDES)
1/4" GLASS DOOR (2 REQD.; SEE TEXT)
D 1 C F
PIVOT HINGE (4 REQD.)
(SEE FIG. B FOR SIDE AND BOTTOM DETAILS)
H A K
2-3/4" x 4-3/4" DIA. BUN FOOT (4 REQD.; INSTALL IN SAME POSITION IN ALL CORNERS)
NO. 8 x 2-1/2" DRYWALL SCREW (3 PER SIDE)
NO. 10 x 2" PAN HEAD SCREW (2 PER FOOT)
58
Ligcabinet hted display

masking tape) the bottom side edging pieces to the bottom. Trim off the overhanging ends, then attach the front edging piece, and trim its ends. Do the same for the top (B and L). 6. Use a belt sander with a 120-grit sanding belt to sand the edging pieces and rails ush with the plywood pieces. TIP: To avoid sanding through the plywood veneer, draw a zigzag pencil line over the joints, and sand just until the line disappears. 7. Lay out and drill the holes for the halogen light xtures (Photo 4), the touch latches (Fig. A, Detail 1) and the shelf support pins in the sides. Then drill the 7/8-in. dia. hole in the left side for the recessed ip switch, and the holes for the glass door pivot hinges in the top and bottom (Fig. B). TIP: For more accurate drilling, use a scratch awl to punch a point in the wood to center the drill bit. To get tight-tting 8. Lay out and rout the dadoes dadoes in the cabinet in the sides, top sides and bottom, and bottom use a 23/32-in. dia. (Photo 5 and Fig. B). router bit. This bit is 9. Cut the dado designed for use with grooves in the sides for the 3/4-in. plywood, back (Photo 6 which is slightly and Fig. B). 10. Lay out, thinner than 3/4 in. countersink and drill the screw holes in the bottom (A), back (P), and shelf depth stops (G). 11. Finish-sand all the parts using an orbital sander. Start with 150-grit sandpaper, then use 180-grit. Do the bun feet too. Then ease all the exposed sharp edges with 150-grit sandpaper. 12. Glue and clamp the sides to the inside top and bottom shelf (D), as shown in Photo 7. 13. Glue and clamp the top (B) to the sides (Photo 8). 14. Slide the back in place, insert the screws at the top and bottom, and glue
4
DRILL
HALOGEN LIGHT FIXTURE
2-1/8" HOLE SAW
DRILL the holes for the halogen lights using a 2-1/8 in. hole saw. The lights are pressure-fit in the holes. Dont insert them until the finishing is
ROUTER
ROUT the dado grooves using a 23/32-in. dia. router bit (see the Tool List) and an edge guide. This bit cuts perfectwidth dadoes for 3/4-in. thick plywood.
SIDE EDGE GUIDE
6
SIDE DADO GROOVE FOR BACK
CUT the back dado grooves by making two saw cuts. Make the first cut at 1 in. to the outside of the blade. Make the second cut so the back fits in the groove.
TABLE SAW
NOVEMBER 1997
WARNING: GUARD REMOVED FOR PHOTOUSE YOURS!
59
Lighted displaycabinet
7
SCRAP 1/4" PLYWOOD
8
BAR CLAMP SCRAP WOOD
PIPE CLAMP
TOP
INSIDE TOP
GLUE and clamp the sides to the inside top and bottom shelf. Place scraps of 1/4-in. plywood in the back dadoes to align the back edges of the top and bottom.
GLUE and clamp the top to the sides. If you dont have long pipe clamps, then use a clamping setup like this to distribute the pressure over the joint.
the back cleats (J) in place. Then glue and screw the bottom (A) to the sides. If youre making the entertainment library version, glue the shelf stops (M) to the sides. Use the shelves as guides to align the shelf stops. 15. Apply three coats of Danish oil to
all the wood surfaces except the bun feet. Apply light coats of spray primer to the bun feet until the wood stops absorbing the primer. Then lightly sand the primer and apply a few coats of black spray enamel. 16. When the nish is dry, align and
Fig. B Dado and Shelf Pin Detail

1/4" 1" 1" 2-1/2" 9" 7/8" DIA. HOLE (LEFT SIDE ONLY) 11-3/4" 1-1/2" 1-1/2" 28-1/2"
1
11/32" DIA. x 3/8" DEEP 2" HOLES 1"
38-1/2" 2-1/4" 5-3/4"
TOP DETAIL
1/4" DIA. HOLES
2
1-1/2" (TYP.) 42-1/2"
2-1/4"
2-1/4" 28-1/2"
C
11-3/4" 8-1/2" 11" 1/4" 2-1/2"
11/32" DIA. x 3/8" DEEP 2-3/4" HOLES
K
1-3/4"
SIDE DETAIL
BOTTOM DETAIL
60
screw the bun feet to If youre building the bottom corners the entertainment of the cabinet. 17. Align and insert library version, glue the halogen lights the wood stops (M) (Photo 4 inset) and to the sides. The the ip switch. The lights and switch are stops keep the pressure-t in their shelves secure to the holes. Once the lights are in, theyre back of the cabinet. in for good. Next, hammer in the touch latch sleeves into their holes, and then thread the latches into the sleeves. 18. Attach the small plastic wire connectors, and make the wire connections by following the directions included with the switch, lights and our Fig. C on p. 62. NOTE: Take a close look at the small metal pins on the ends of the wires before you insert them into the small plastic wire connectors. Some are male, others female. Male pins go into female pins. Its easy to get them mixed up, so gure out all the connections before you insert the metal pins in plastic connectors. 19. Clean the glass doors, and the glass shelves if you made the curio version.
1. CUT DADOES WITH ROUTER AND A 23/32" ROUTER BIT TO 1/4" DEPTH 2. CUT DADO ON TABLE SAW TO PLYWOOD THICKNESS AND 1/4" DEPTH
Cutting List
KEY PCS. A 2 B C D E F G H J K L M N P 1 2 2 4 2 4 2 6 1 1 2 4 1 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4 x 13-3/4 x 33-1/2 birch plywood (bottom)* 3/4 x 12-1/2 x 31 birch plywood (top) 3/4 x 11-1/4 x 47-1/2 birch plywood (sides) 3/4 x 9-1/2 x 29 birch plywood (inside top and bottom shelf) 3/4 x 7-1/2 x 28-7/16 birch plywood (shelves) 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 28-1/2 birch (top and bottom rails) 3/4 x 1 x 28-7/16 birch (shelf depth stops) 3/4 x 3/4 x 47 birch (side edging) 3/4 x 3/4 x 4 birch (back cleats) 1/4 x 1-1/2 x 63 birch (bottom edging)* 1/4 x 3/4 x 60 birch (top edging)* 1/4 x 3/4 x 42-1/2 birch (shelf stops) 1/4 x 3/4 x 29-1/2 birch (shelf edging)* 1/4 x 29 x 44 birch plywood (back)
Handling and replacing the halogen light bulbs

CAUTION: Halogen light bulbs Fig. C Wiring Detail can be extremely hot after being on only a few minutes. Be careTO POWER ful not to touch the protective glass bulb covers of the light x12-VOLT tures when the lights are turned TRANSFORMER on, or have been turned on. Dont set wax objects close to RECESSED FLIP SWITCH the bulbs, and maintain at least 2 in. of clearance for any object placed on the top shelf. CONNECTORS Never touch the halogen light bulbs with your bare nJUNCTION BOX gers. The oil from your ngers can cause the bulbs to burn out prematurely. Handled properly, a new halogen bulb should last for 2,000 hours. 20-WATT INSET When the time comes to HALOGEN LIGHTS replace a burned-out bulb, rst make sure the bulb has cooled completely. Then twist the black rim on the xture to remove the glass bulb cover; pull out the old bulb; hold the new bulb with a glove, paper towel or tissue; insert it in the bulb socket; and then replace the glass bulb cover. NOTE: Our cabinet is designed to accommodate the extra heat generated by the halogen lights. If you use halogen lights in other projects, be sure you provide ventilation space above the lights.
*Cut to nish dimensions during assembly; see the step-by-step instructions. Include these pieces when making the entertainment library version.
Tool List
Table saw with miter gauge Router with: edge guide 23/32 dia. straight bit* Cordless or electric drill No. 2 Phillips screwdriver or hex-shanked bit Drill bits: 7/16 twist bit 5/32 twist bit 1/4 brad point bit 11/32 twist bit 3/8 brad point bit 14mm brad point bit* 7/8 spade or power bore bit 2-1/8 hole saw* countersink bit Belt sander Orbital sander Clamps: four 36 long pipe clamps six 18 long bar clamps 1 wide masking tape Paint scraper Thickness planeroptional Jointeroptional Drill pressoptional *If you dont have these cutting tools, you can order them at the same time you order the TFH Display Cabinet Hardware Kit from The Woodworkers Store; see the Shopping List. 14mm brad point drill bit, No. 46813, $4.49; 2-1/8 hole saw, No. 90295, $10.99; arbor (3/8 shank) for 2-1/8 hole saw, No. 90301, $12.99; 23/32 dia. (1/4 shank) straight router bit, No. 90264, $13.99.
Art Direction MARCIA WILLISTON and DAVID FARR Photography MIKE KRIVIT and BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art GENE THOMPSON
Place the plastic hinge pivot bushings in the holes in the top and bottom of the cabinet. Peel the protective covers off the small metal plates that come with the pivot hinges and stick the plates to the backsides of the doors in the corners. The screws of the pivot hinges are tightened against these plates. Align and screw a pivot hinge to the bottom of each door. Tighten the screws just enough to secure the hinges. Overtightening the screws may break the glass. Insert a door in the bottom hinge bushing so the hinge screws face inward. Insert the top pivot hinge in the top bushing, slide the top of the door in the hinge, and tighten the screws. Do the other door, and make any necessary adjustments. 20. Remove the protective coverings
62
from the small foam pieces that came with the door strike plates. Stick the foam pieces over the top inside corners of the doors, then push the strike plates over them. If you made the entertainment library version, align and screw the shelf depth stops (G) to the shelves (E). Insert the shelf support pins and the shelves, and youre done. NOTE: If you set the cabinet on thick carpet, and it seems tippy when you open the doors, screw a 3/4-in. x 27-in. x 44-in. piece of particleboard to the back so its recessed in the void. The added heft of the 3/4-in. particleboard will offset the weight of the open doors. This should help stabilize the cabinet.
Leaning tower of shelves

by Kurt Lawton
This stylish but sturdy shelf unit will neatly hold your stuffand you can build it in a day
his shelf unit may look lightweight and easy to topple. But dont be fooled. Its a real workhorse. The 33-1/2 in. x 82-3/4 in. tower features ve unique, tray-like shelves of different depths to hold a wide variety of items up to 13-1/4 in. tall. Despite its 10-degree lean, the unit is surprisingly sturdy (as our office woodworker pros will attest), and its open design wont overpower a room.
53
Modular Shelving
Cut 3/4-in. shelf plywood to width first, using a circular saw and a homemade jig (see p. 39) for exact cuts. Use a sharp plywood blade and cut with the best side of the wood facing down to minimize splintering.
SHARP PLYWOOD BLADE

/2" 30-1
GRAIN DIRECTION CUTTING JIG
GOOD SIDE OF WOOD DOWN
Cut the individual shelves, beginning with the narrowest, using the jig for perfectly straight cuts.
Whether you choose to make this piece more functional, as in this office setting, or place it in a family room to showcase treasures, the basic construction is the same.You select the type of wood and stain or paint to dress it up or down to t the look of any room. All the materials can be purchased in home centers or lumberyards. The only special tools youll need are a power miter box for crisp angle cuts and an air-powered brad nailer for quick assembly and almost invisible joints. And youll have to rustle up an old clothes iron for applying oak edge-banding material. Once youve gathered all the material, you can build the shelf unit in one afternoon.
Buying the wood

We built our unit with red oak and oak veneer plywood and nished it with two coats of red oak stain. The beauty of this project is that any wood species will work. If you plan to paint it, select alder or aspen for the solid parts and birch for the plywood. One note when buying boards: Use a tape measure to check the standard dimensions of 1x3s and 1x4s. They sometimes vary in width and thickness. Also check the two fulllength 1x4s you plan to use as the uprights to be sure theyre straight, without warps or twists. And always examine the ends, edges and surface for blemishes or rough areas that wont easily sand out.
NARROWEST SHELF
JIG
SECOND SHELF
THIRD SHELF
Cut both shelf uprights to length with a miter saw. Clamp to sawhorses. Mark the 10-degree angle at the top (dimensions in Figure B), then cut with a circular saw.
Cut plywood shelves rst

Lay a couple of 2x4s across sawhorses (Photo 1) to cut the half sheet of 3/4-in. plywood cleanly and without pinching the saw blade. Since all ve shelves are 30-1/2 in. wide, cut this width rst, making sure the grain will run the long way across the shelves. Remember to wear safety glasses, earplugs and a dust mask. Make a homemade jig to t your circular saw
Text continued on page 60
54
TOP OF UPRIGHT
10-DEGREE ANGLE REMOVED
Modular Shelving
Figure A Modular Shelf Assembly
1x4 x 84" UPRIGHT 1x4 x 14-1/2" CLEAT F
Figure B Top of Upright

2-1/32"
1x3
F 1x3
8-3/8" J F AND J 10-DEGREE ANGLE
SHELF A 3-3/8" 4-3/8"
G
PCS. 1
Cutting List
SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 3-3/8" x 30-1/2" oak plywood (shelf A base) 3/4" x 5-3/4" x 30-1/2" oak plywood (shelf B base) 3/4" x 8-3/16" x 30-1/2" oak plywood (shelf C base) 3/4" x 10-5/8" x 30-1/2" oak plywood (shelf D base) 3/4" x 13" x 30-1/2" oak plywood E (shelf base) 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 4-3/8" oak (shelf A sides)* 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 6-3/4" oak (shelf B sides)* 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 9-3/16" oak (shelf C sides)* 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 11-5/8" oak (shelf D sides)* 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 14" oak (shelf E sides)* 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 30-1/2" oak A - E (shelf backs) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 14-1/2" oak shelf cleats F (cut with 10-degree angles) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 11-3/4" oak shelf cleats G (cut with 10-degree angles) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 10" oak shelf cleats H (cut with 10-degree angles) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 84" oak uprights J (cut with 10-degree angles)
SHELF B 5-3/4" 6-3/4" CLEAT G 1x4 x 11-3/4"
1 1 1
11-3/4"
1 2
8-3/16" SHELF C
2 2 2 2 5 2
9-3/16"
8 2 2
10-5/8"
SHELF D
11-5/8"
*Front part of side cut at 10 degrees
30-1 /2"
G 13" 14" SHELF E

I I I I
Shopping List
One half sheet (4' x 4') of 3/4" oak plywood Three 8' oak 1x3s Four 8' oak 1x4s One package (25') of 7/8" oak iron-on veneer (Band-It brand, The Cloverdale Co., www.band-itproducts.com, 800-782-9731, purchased at Home Depot) Veneer edge trimmer (Band-It brand; see above and click Retail, Related Products) Wood glue 1-1/4" brad nails Foam pads (1 pkg. of Ace brand 3/4" round, self-adhesive non-skid pads from Ace Hardware)
CUT CLEAT ENDS AT 10 DEGREES
CLEAT H 1x4 x 10"
H
I I I
56
Modular Shelving
Iron edgebanding veneer to the front edge of all five shelves. Roll the entire surface to ensure a solid bond, and trim the edges.
CLOTHES IRON
VENEER TRIMMER SHELF FRONT OAK EDGE-BANDING VENEER ROLLER
To maintain accuracy, lock the miter box at 10 degrees, then cut all angled piecesuprights, cleats and one end of shelf sideswithout changing the table.
CLEATS
CLEAT 10 DEGREES
and clamp it to the plywood. (See p. 39 to learn how to construct a jig.) Next, cut all ve shelf depths, starting with the smallest shelf (3-3/8 in.) rst. Cut smallest to largest so youll have enough wood to clamp the jig. Important: Make sure you account for the width of your saw blade when you cut each shelf. Now mark and cut the top of all four 1x4 uprights (the end that rests against the wall), according to Photo 3 and the two dimensions provided in Figure B. Use a sharp blade in your circular saw to prevent splintering. Then stow the sawhorses and move to the workbench. Select the best front of each plywood shelf, clamp it to the bench on edge and sand it smooth with 150grit paper on a sanding block. Then preheat a clothes iron to the cotton setting and run it over the top of the edge-banding veneer, making sure the veneer extends beyond all edges (Photo 4). Roll it smooth immediately after heating. Let each shelf edge cool for a couple of minutes before trimming and sanding the edges. (See pp. 39 and 40 for further veneer application details.)
LOCK AT 10 DEGREES
Cut the uprights and shelf frame next

Now enter the miter saw, which you use to make all the 90-degree straight cuts rst (ve shelf backs and 10 shelf sides; see Cutting List). Important: Remember that one end of each shelf side has a 10-degree cut, so we recommend rst cutting them square at their exact length, then cutting the angle carefully so the long edge of each piece remains the same. Next, rotate the miter saw table to the 10-degree mark and cut all the angle pieces. First cut the bottom of both uprights so each upright rests at against the oor and wall (see Figure A). Then trim the top of the upright to match the bottom, being
Glue and nail the shelf cleats to the uprights using a 1x3 spacer. Hold each cleat tight to the spacer.
18-GAUGE BRAD NAILER CARPENTER'S GLUE 1x3 SPACER CLEAT
1-1/4" BRADS
2-1/2"
60
Modular Shelving
7
SIDE BACK SHELF SIDE EXTENDS BEYOND SHELF
Glue and nail the shelf backs, then attach the sides to the plywood shelves. Position the sides to overlap the shelf base as shown.
BAR CLAMP
FRONT
1/2" GAP
9
SPRING CLAMP GLUE AND NAIL
Set the shelf unit against a straight wall, check for squareness and apply three bar clamps until the glue dries.
Clamp the shelves into one upright. Spread glue in the shelf notches of the other upright, position it flush with the front of the shelves and nail. Flip the unit over and attach the other upright.
the second upright. Work quickly so the glue doesnt set. Lift the ladder shelf and place it upright against a straight wall. Check it with a framing square and ex it if necessary to square it up and to make sure that the uprights rest at against the oor and wall (assuming your oor is level). Attach three bar clamps as shown in Photo 9 while the glue dries.
careful to maintain the 84-in. total length. Next, cut the cleats based on the Cutting List dimensions, which are measured edge to edge (Photo 5 and Figure A). Leave the top cleats long and cut them to exact t during assembly. Then, to speed nishing, use an orbital sander with 150-grit sand-paper to smooth all pieces before assembly.
Assemble uprights rst, then the shelves

To begin assembly, lay out both uprights and all cleats to ensure that the angles are correct so the shelves will be level when the unit is against the wall. Then glue and nail the rst cleat ush with the base of each
upright (using ve or six 1-1/4 in. brads) on each cleat. Work your way upward using 1x3 spacers (Photo 6). Make sure the spacer is the exact same width as the shelf sides! Set these aside to dry. For shelf assembly, rst glue and nail on the shelf backs. Next, apply the sides with glue and nails (Photo 7). For nal assembly, lay one upright on 2x4s, then clamp on the shelves as shown in Photo 8. Apply the glue, position the second upright on top ush with the front edge of the shelves, then sink four 1-1/4 in. brads into each shelf from the upright side. Carefully turn the unit over and repeat the process to attach
62
NON-SKID FOAM PAD
The shelf is highly stable as designed, but once youve stained or painted it, you can add self-adhesive foam gripping pads to the bottom of the uprights. And if you dont feel secure having it on a slippery oor, the units width is perfect for screwing the top of the uprights into wall studs.
Art Direction DAVID FARR Illustration FRANK ROHRBACH Photography MIKE KRIVIT Project Design KURT LAWTON and DAVID RADTKE Consultants BRUCE KIEFFER AND NINA JOHNSON, MASTER WOODWORKERS
Grand Bookcase
W
hen youre ready to part with the discount store bookshelves you bought when you were 22, consider building this grown-up version. For handsome looks, we built it from cherry and designed it with paneled doors, crown molding and tall, open shelves. For practical use, it has two depths of shelves to hold books and treasures and three large cabinets to hide an assortment of stuff. This article will show everything you need to know to build this
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 20 06
A masterpiece designed for the weekend woodworker

By Gary Wentz
bookcase from the bottom up. The size and elegance of this piece are deceptive; dont assume its too big or difficult for youyou may be pleasantly surprised when you look over the following pages. Youll see how the modular construction makes it buildable in a small workshop and easy to disassemble and reassemble in your living room or great room. Youll also see that there are lots of steps involved, but none of them require special skills. There are no interlocking parts, no complex joinery.
35
Figure A Bookcase construction
CROWN (see Figure C, p. 46) FF RR BB NN AA PP SHELF BOX
GG
EE
CC AA SS TT UU
VV
HH
CABINET TOP
KK DD X DOORS (see Figure B, p. 37) Z F N CABINET BOX C G S D N T A A Y
LL MM
JJ
R B W
FACADE V U BASE CAP U V BASE
Overall dimensions: 84-1/2" tall x 99-1/2" wide (at crown) x 18-1/2" deep (at cabinet top)
36
DECEMBER / JANUARY 20 06 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
grand bookcase
BACK
DIAGONAL MEASUREMENT
CABINET BOX
DOOR FRAME
Tools, money and time

This project consists mostly of quickly assembled plywood boxes and solid-wood frames. The only fussy steps are cutting and installing the mitered moldings that trim the doors, panels, base and crown. If you have experience with a table saw, a miter saw and a router, you can build this bookcase. Youll also need one special tool a pocket screw jig ($60; Photo 2). If you havent used pocket screws before, dont worry. You can learn to use them in minutes. We strongly suggest you use a brad nailer rather than clamps to tack glued parts together. A brad nailer is faster and actually cheaper than the assortment of clamps you would need for this project. The total materials bill for our cherry bookcase was for $1,200. Built from a less expensive species like oak, this bookcase would have a total cost of about $800. A similar piece of comparable quality would cost three times that much, or more, at a furniture store. Expect to spend at least 20 hours building this bookcase and another 10 hours finishing it.
parts to the dimensions given in the Cutting List on p. 47. Before you assemble the boxes, cover the front edges of the 3/4in. plywood with iron-on wood edge band. Also drill 1/4-in. holes in the cabinet sides for adjustable shelf supports. For some tips on edge banding and drilling shelf support holes, see Storage Galore, Sept. 05, p. 47. (To order a copy, see p. 7.) To assemble the boxes fast, tack them together with a brad nailer. Then drill 3/16-in. pilot holes and drive four 2-in. screws along each joint for strength. Fasten the backs with 1/2-in. brad nails.
fill large, deep holes). The filler will shrink as it dries, so youll have to apply a second, skim coat after four hours. Sand the joints flush on both sides of the doors and lightly sand the plywood panels before assembly with 180-grit sandpaper. Fasten the panels with 1/2-in. brads.
Figure B Door construction

RAIL (J & K) MOLDING STILE (H)
Easy, elegant doors

H PLYWOOD PANEL (L & M)
The cabinet doors may look fancy, but theyre just solid wood frames with a plywood panel slapped on the back. The base cap moldings surrounding the panel give these simple doors a rich look. Cut the solid wood rails and stiles following the Cutting List and assemble them with pocket screws (Photo 2). If you havent used a pocket screw jig before, see Using Tools, Feb. 03, p. 23. (To order a copy, see 7.) The pocket screw holes will be visiBuild basic cabinet boxes p. ble on the back of each door, so fill them The three cabinets are simply boxes made with a solvent-based wood filler such as from 3/4-in. plywood with 1/4-in. ply- Plastic Wood (water-based fillers dry wood backs (Photo 1). Cut the plywood slowly and can swell wood when used to
[Note: There are two door sizes.]
37
11 /1 6"
Glue and nail together three plywood cabinet boxes (Figure A). Square each box by taking diagonal measurements, then attach the back. Equal measurements means the box is square. Edge-band the front with iron-on birch.
Assemble the door frames with glue and pocket screws. Glue and nail a plywood panel to the back of each frame. Miter, glue and nail molding to the panel front.
BASE CAP MOLDING
13/ 8"
grand bookcase
CABINET
DOOR
SPACER BLOCK
EDGE-BANDED PLYWOOD
2-1/4" TEMPLATE
MOUNTING PLATE
Lay the cabinet box on its side and center the door against it. Mark hinge guidelines on the door and cabinet using a 2-1/4-in.-wide spacer block.
Center the mounting plate template on the cabinet guideline and drill two 3/32-in. pilot holes for the mounting plate. Screw the mounting plate to the cabinet.
HINGE
7/8" SPACER JIG
CENTER POINT OF HOLE RELEASE LEVER
FORSTNER BIT
Mark the center point of the hinge hole 7/8 in. from the doors edge using a homemade spacer jig. Drill the hinge hole with a 1-3/8-in. Forstner bit. Insert the hinge and screw it to the door.
Snap the hinges onto the mounting plates to make sure they fit correctly. Then remove the doors by pulling the release lever.
LEFT/RIGHT ADJUSTMENT IN/OUT ADJUSTMENT EURO HINGE
Carefully center the panels so theyre 13/4 in. from the edges of the door frames; this leaves ample space for mounting the hinges. Miter the moldings and install them with glue and 1-1/4-in. brads. Throughout this project, use brads sparingly. Drive only as many as it takes to draw glue joints tight. Fewer brads means less time spent filling holes later. For some tips on installing mitered moldings, see the Editors Note, p. 44.
installation much easier. The best feature of euro hinges is that theyre adjustable: To move the door up and down, left or right or in and out, you just turn adjustment screws. That means you dont have to spend hours sanding or planing doors to get a perfect fit. The hinges we chose let you hang and remove doors in seconds by releasing a lever. Choosing the right type of euro hinge for the job and positioning the parts correctly can be confusing. But weve done all Hi-tech hinges simplified the calculating for you. If you use the European hingesalso called cup or model we recommend (see the Materials euro hingescost less than good-quality List, p. 47) and follow the steps shown traditional hinges and make cabinet door here, youll find the process foolproof.
38
The template we UP/DOWN ADJUSTMENT used (Photo 4 ) RELEASE isnt absolutely necesLEVER sary, but it will save you lots of fussy measuring and costs only $6. Our spacer jig (Photo 5) is simply a block of wood glued to a scrap of hardboard. Youll have to buy a 1-3/8-in. Forstner bit ($18). Use a corded drill to bore the hinge holes; most cordless models dont have enough power. Clamp down the door and hang on tight to the drill; the bit might bind and twist the drill or the door. Stop drilling occasionally and insert the hinge to check the depth of the holeif you bore too deep, youll ruin the door.
grand bookcase
WEDGE
FACADE
COVE
WEDGE BLOCK
3/4 SETBACK
REAR L-CLEAT
PILASTER (N)
FRONT L-CLEAT
GUIDE BLOCK
PILASTER
Screw 2-1/4-in.-wide guide blocks to plywood to make a pilaster jig. Screw on a wedge block and lock each pilaster in place with a wedge. Rout coves in the pilasters with a 3/8-in. cove bit.
3/8" COVE BIT
Build the facades just as you built the doors. Glue the pilasters to the facades. Glue 1-1/2-in.-wide strips of plywood together to make L-cleats, and attach the cleats to the facades.
UNDERSIDE OF CABINET TOP
FACADE MIDDLE PILASTER
SOLID WOOD EDGING
BASE
Assemble the base (Figure A). Then set the cabinet boxes on the base. Screw the facades to the side boxes and screw the pilasters between boxes. Carefully position and screw the boxes to the base.
MIDDLE PILASTER TWO LAYERS OF 3/4" PLYWOOD
10
Band three sides of the plywood cabinet top with 3/4 x 3/4-in. solid wood. Cut a cove in the underside of the banding with a router.
Pilasters give a classic look

The three cabinet boxes are divided and flanked by four flat, protruding columns, or pilasters. Make the pilasters using a 3/8-in. cove bit and simple jig that guides your router bit at the beginning and end of each cut (Photo 7). To get perfect, splinter-free coves, rout the edges of each pilaster in two passes. Set the bit to a
depth of about 3/16 in. Rout all the pilaster edges once, then set the bit to a 1/4-in. depth and make a final pass along each edge. Next, build two facades to cover the sides of the left and right cabinet boxes. The facades are constructed just like the doors, with frames, a plywood panel and mitered moldings. Glue a pilaster to the front edge of each facade. Also add L-cleats to the backs of the facades (Photo 8). Space the rear cleat 3/4 in. from the back edge of the facade. These cleats allow you to attach the facades with screws drivTHE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 20 06
en from inside the cabinet boxes (Photo 9). Glue two layers of 3/4-in. plywood to the backsides of the two middle pilasters that fit between cabinet boxes.
Set the cabinets on the base

The base is simply a plywood platform covered on three sides with mitered baseboard and base cap molding (Figure A). Assemble the platform parts with brad nails and then add 2-in. screws for strength. You can use construction-grade
41
grand bookcase
FLUSH
SHELF BOX
SIDE FRAME
BASE CAP MOLDING
11
Frame on the underside of the cabinet top with two layers of 3/4-in. plywood. Then wrap three sides of the frame with mitered base cap molding.
12
Assemble shelf boxes and side frames following Figure A. Glue side frames to both end shelf boxes. Then install base cap molding inside the frames.
CAUTION:
You have to remove the blade guard to make these cuts. Keep hands and clothing away from the blade.
TOP RAIL
TOP RAIL COVE BOTH SIDES 3/4" 1/4" HALF PILASTER
13
Rout 1/4-in.-deep coves into both sides of the top rails. Then cut a rabbet on the back by making two cuts with your table saw.
14
Cut the top rail to length so that the half pilaster protrudes about 1/32 in. beyond the side of the shelf box. Glue and nail the top rail into place followed by the half pilaster.
plywood for the sides of the platform, but use finish-grade plywood for the lid, since the perimeter of the lid will be visible. Make the baseboard from a 4-5/8-in.-wide board using the same cove bit you used on the pilasters, and use the same base cap molding that you used on the doors. Attach the base cap to the platform first, making it flush with the lid. Then add the baseboard. Set the base on furniture dollies ($20 each at home centers) or make your own dollies from plywood and casters ($3 each). Set the cabinet boxes on the base. Screw on the facades and join the boxes by screwing into the two other pilasters (Photo 9). All four pilasters protrude
1-1/4 in. from the cabinet boxes; cut a spacer block to help you position them. Gently shift the whole cabinet assembly to center it on the base and then fasten each box to the base with four 1-5/8-in. screws. The cabinet top is a slab of plywood banded with solid wood edging. Be sure to drive brads at the center of the banding. If you drive them too close to the underside of the banding, you might hit them with your router bit when you cove the banding (Photo 10). Next, glue and nail two layers of 3/4-in. plywood strips to the underside of the top to form a frame. The back of the frame is flush with the back of the top. The other three sides are inset 1/2 in. from the edge of the plywood.
42
The frame acts as a cleat, allowing you to screw the top in place from inside the cabinet boxes, and provides backing for the base cap (Photo 11). This is the same kind of molding that was used on the doors. With the entire cabinet unit assembled, snap the doors onto their mounting plates and adjust the hinges. If any doors fit badly, trim them with a belt sander or shave them down slightly on the table saw. Label each door with its location and set them aside to avoid damage.
Shelf units
To build the shelf units, youll repeat the techniques you used on the cabinets. The shelf units begin as plywood boxes (Photo
grand bookcase
ALREADY MITERED
Editors note More-efficient miters

This bookcase has a dozen door and side panels that are lined with molding. Fitting moldings inside a frame is slow work: You miter one end, then miter the other end so the piece is a hair too long, then shave that end again and again until the molding fits just right. The process is painstaking, but I have learned a few tricks to speed up the job: I Dont swing your saw from left to right a hundred times. Set your saw 45 degrees to the left and rough-cut all the pieces, making them 1/4 in. too long. Then set your saw to the right and cut them to length. I Dont bother with a tape measure. To mark the length of each piece, hold the mitered end in place and mark the other end with a sharp pencil (photo above). I Eliminate miter saw guesswork. Attach a flat scrap of plywood to the bed of your saw and cut kerfs in it. When you position a marked piece for cutting, youll know exactly where the blade will land no guessing. To attach the plywood, you can drill holes into the metal bed or preserve the bed and use double-faced carpet tape.
15
Set the shelf units on the cabinet top and position them. Fasten them to the cabinet unit on the backside using metal straps. Position the lower ends of the pilasters with a tape measure and fasten them with small brackets hidden inside the shelf units.
BRACKET STRAP
12 and Figure A). Before assembly, drill holes for adjustable shelf supports just as you did with the cabinet boxes. Theres no need to edge-band the shelf parts. Theyll be covered. When you assemble the center shelf box, keep screws at least 3-1/2 in. from the front of the box; that protruding part of the box will be exposed. Square the shelf boxes just as you did the cabinet boxes. To make the pilasters for the shelf units, build a 47-1/2-in.-long version of the jig shown in Photo 7. Youll need four full pilasters and two half pilasters. The sides of the shelf units are covered with frames. These frames are like the facades used on the cabinets, but without the 1/4in. plywood panels. Instead, the shelf box sides act as panels. When you add the top rail and half pilaster (Photos 13 and 14), allow the half pilaster to protrude slightly from the shelf units side. This makes it easier to create a tight joint between the side units and the middle shelf unit. The
middle shelf unit has no frame; cover the front plywood edges with two pilasters and a top rail. When the shelf units are complete, set them in place and fasten them to the cabinets below by screwing metal straps to the backs of the shelf units and cabinets. The sides of the shelf units may angle inward or outward slightly, so check the positions of the pilasters with a tape measure (Photo 15). Then anchor the shelf unit to the cabinet top with small brackets hidden behind each pilaster (photo above).
Top it all off with a crown

The crown begins as a solid wood frame joined with pocket screws (Figure C). Glue a board to the front of this frame to cover the protruding middle shelf unit (youll need three clamps that open at least 6 in. to attach this part). Then build a plywood parapet around the perimeter of the frame to support the crown mold44
CUT MARK BLADE KERF
grand bookcase
4-5/8" CROWN MOLDING
CROWN MOLDING
3"
V-BLOCK
3-5 /8"
Disassemble for easier finishing
BASE CAP (CUT DOWN)
PARAPET FRAME
BASE CAP MOLDING
16
Build the crowns frame and add the parapet. Wrap the frame with base cap molding and install crown molding. Glue and nail in V-blocks to strengthen the crown molding.
ing. Run mitered base cap molding around the front and sides of the frame. We couldnt find a narrower version of base cap in cherry, so we cut it down on the table saw (photo, above right). If you havent worked with crown molding before, see Crowning Touch, Nov. 04, p. 40. (To order a copy, see p. 7.) Crown molding in rooms is usually coped at inside corners to account for out-ofsquare walls. Since the frame has perfectly square corners, we mitered the two inside
corner joints (Photo 16). When you cut the two short pieces of crown that flank the middle protruding section, do it safely: Cut them from a piece at least 12 in. long while holding on to the waste side. Dont hold on to the short piece. When the crown molding is in place, glue in V-blocks to support it. If you want to display items on top of the crown, cut a sheet of 3/4-in. plywood to fit. The parapet is 3/4 in. lower than the crown molding, so a plywood top will fit down inside it.
By removing a few dozen 1" screws, you can take the whole bookcase apart in about 10 minutes. Label the parts to make reassembly easier. Cherry can absorb stain unevenly for a blotchy appearance, so we first applied Minwax Prefinish Wood Conditioner. Then we wiped on two coats of Watco cherry oil finish. After three days, we lightly sanded the finish with 320-grit sandpaper and applied three light coats of satin lacquer (from spray cans). Think twice before you choose a brush-on finish for this project; the intricate doors and side panels will require careful brushwork. We let the finish dry overnight and spent about 30 minutes reassembled the parts in the bookcases new home. A tall, heavy piece of furniture like this can tip forward and badly injure someone, so drive two 3-in. screws through the back of the parapet into wall studs.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE and RAMON MORENO Illustrations FRANK ROHRBACH III
Figure C Crown construction

CROWN MOLDING PLYWOOD PARAPET
DDD FRAME
AAA
BASE CAP BBB CCC EEE
WW XX
YY
ZZ
46
grand bookcase
Materials List
For a wider selection of wood species and molding profiles, visit a traditional lumberyard rather than a home center. Molding profiles vary, so you may not find the exact profiles we used. ITEM 4' x 8' 3/4" hardwood plywood 4' x 8' 1/4" hardwood plywood 4' x 8' 3/4" construction plywood or MDF 1x4 boards 1x6 boards Crown molding Base cap molding 1/2", 1-1/4" and 1-3/4" brads 1-1/4", 1-5/8" and 2" screws 2" metal straps Wood glue Spray cans of satin lacquer QTY. 3 2 1 40' 60' 12' 116'
Cutting List
Moldings are not included. Cut all to fit. KEY A B C D E F G H J K L 4 8 M N P R S T U V W X Y Z AA PCS. 6 2 4 2 1 2 1 12 8 4 4 2 4 2 2 4 2 2 3 1 1 4 4 4 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 15-3/4" x 22-1/2" box sides 15-3/4" x 24" box floor 3-1/2" x 24" box top slats 23-3/4" x 23-3/4" back 15-3/4" x 33" middle box floor 3-1/2" x 33" middle box top slats 23-3/4" x 32-3/4" middle box back 2-1/4" x 23-3/4" door stiles 2-1/4" x 7-3/8" door rails 2-1/4" x 11-7/8" door rails 8-3/8" x 20-1/4" door panel 12-7/8" x 20-1/4" door panel 3" x 24" cabinet pilasters 3" x 24" rear stiles 2-1/4" x 24" front stiles 3" x 11-1/4" rails 13" x 19-1/2" side panels 5-1/4" x 93-1/4" base frame 5-1/4" x 16" base frame 17-1/2" x 93-1/4" base lid 17-3/4" x 94" cabinet top 2-1/2" x 93" cabinet top frame (assemble from scrap plywood) 2-1/2" x 12-1/4" cabinet top frame 10-1/2" x 47-1/2" box sides BB CC DD EE FF GG HH JJ KK LL MM NN PP RR SS TT UU VV WW XX YY ZZ AAA BBB CCC DDD EEE 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 4 2 2 2 6 2 1 3 3 6 6 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 2 10-1/2" x 24-3/4" box top 26" x 47-1/4" back 2-1/4" x 24-3/4" back rail 13-1/2" x 47-1/2" box sides 13-1/2" x 37-1/2" box top 38-3/4" x 47-1/4" back 2-1/4" x 37-1/2" back rail 3" x 47-1/2" shelf pilasters 1-1/2" x 47-1/2" half pilasters 2-1/4" x 47-1/2" rear stiles 1-1/2" x 47-1/2" front stiles 3" x 7" side rails 2-1/4" x 22-1/2" top rail (cut to fit) 2-1/4" x 33" top rail (cut to fit) 12-1/2" x 37-1/4" middle shelves 1-1/4" x 37-1/4" shelf nosing 9-1/2" x 24-1/2" side shelves 1-1/4" x 24-1/2" shelf nosing 2" x 93-1/2" front rail 3" x 39-1/2" front rail extension 2" x 89-1/2" back rail 2" x 9-3/4" stiles 3-3/8" x 93-1/2" back parapet 3-3/8" x 39-1/2" front-center parapet 3-3/8" x 27" front-side parapets 3-3/8" x 13-1/4" through parapets 3-3/8" x 10-1/4" side parapets
The following specialty items are available by mail order from Woodworkers Hardware, (800) 3830130. www.wwhardware.com Kreg Rocket pocket hole system No. KTR 2. $53 1-1/4" fine-thread pocket screws No. KTSPS F125. $3.20/100 screws Two 25' rolls of iron-on birch edge band No. ET078 PB25. $7 each 12 Blum 107 Clip Top straight hinges No. B075T1550. $2.12 each 12 Blum 0mm. Mounting plates No. B175H710. $1.03 each Mounting plate template No. B065.5300. $6 Plastic brackets No. H260.24.117PM. $7 (bag of 20) Shelf supports No. G111BR. $3.20/20 brackets
Color key: The part letters in red indicate 3/4-in. plywood, blue are 1/4-in. plywood and black are 3/4-in. solid cherry.
Plywood Cutting Diagrams

E
We used utility-grade plywood for most of the hidden parts (Sheet 1). You could use AC plywood or MDF . For the exposed parts, we used more expensive cherry plywood (Sheets 2 6). Sheet 4: 1/4" cherry plywood
Sheet 1: 3/4" utility-grade plywood

C C C C F F
CC GG
B M M
A L L L L
Sheet 2: 3/4" cherry plywood

X

CC D D
G SS SS T T

AA AA

UU UU UU UU EEE DDD UU UU EEE DDD BBB CCC CCC
V V V
AA
AA
EE
EE
FF
AAA SS BB BB U U
47
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
bookcases
Classic oor-to-ceiling
Designed to t,even if your room isnt perfectly square.
by David Radtke
One of my earliest memories is of my mother holding my hand as we ambled up a huge set of steps to the front doors of our city library. I fought every inch of the way until we stepped inside. As I gazed at the oor-to-ceiling
USE SHORTEST HEIGHT FOR MEASUREMENT
USE TALLEST GUY TO MEASURE
1
MEASURE THE HEIGHT and width of your wall. Note the locations of all receptacles, switches and vents. They may require you to modify our design.
34
bookcases, my mouth was still open, but now quiet. To my mothers surprise, I was silent the rest of the day, and the memory of those bookcases is as vivid as my rst book. The classic Greek Revival styling of our library is reminiscent of those bookcases built more than a hundred years ago. The bookcases look ornate but are relatively simple to build. Theres no complex joinery like mortise-andtenon, or even doweling, so if youve hung a new door or trimmed a room with new molding, you have the expertise to handle this project. We sized the bookcases to t into a typical room with an 8-ft. ceiling and at least 8 ft. of wall space, something like a typical bedroom you may want to convert to a library or home ofce. It can also be expanded by adding standards (the
upright partitions; see Fig. B, p. 37). Weve engineered this project to work even if your room is a bit out of kilter. The moldings are applied after the main standards are installed to cover any gaps resulting from uneven oors or walls. Near the end of this article, youll nd lists of the tools and materials youll need to complete this project. For a project the size of ours, expect to spend about $600 on materials. The optional ladder and hardware will cost an additional $800. And even though this project isnt complicated, its still going to take you at least 40 hours to build.
PLANNING AHEAD
As you can see, the center section of our bookcases is 6 in. wider than the two outer sections. This establishes a focal point, and the two side sections
AT THE LUMBERYARD
With the exception of the rolling ladder, the maple uted casing and the plinth blocks, all the materials are available at lumberyards and wellequipped home centers (see Shopping List, p. 47). We made the four vertical standards and shelves from birchveneer plywood sandwiched around ordinary 2x4s. The only hitch is nding really straight and dry 2x4s. They must not have any bow, but they can have a slight crook or crown (see For More Information). And since the 2x4s will be completely hidden, some rough edges are acceptable. Even if your 2x4s feel dry to the touch, let them dry inside the house for at least a week. Too much moisture will cause problems because the wood shrinks as it dries. We used birch-veneer plywood and maple trim for our project because it complemented the existing maple woodwork. Whatever wood you choose, be sure it has a plain-sawn veneer, which has a straighter, less wild grain pattern (see For More Information). If youre a bit adventurous and want to make your own uted casing and plinth blocks, read our article, Making Door and Window Casing, Feb. 97, p. 39.
bookcases
provide symmetry. However, this exact design may not work for your room. To check, carefully measure your selected site (Photo 1). Take into consideration the height, width and any obstructions unique to your room. You may nd you need to alter our plans a bit. Keep in mind, you can move the standards (Fig. B and Photo 12) closer together or add another standard or two to t a longer wall. As you plan, note the location of your electrical receptacles and heating ducts. They may dictate where you place the standards. Your only other absolute is that the ladder support rod (Photo 17) should not span more than 36 in. between brackets. Use a level to check for
Fig. A Casings and moldings

3/4" 3/4" 1-1/4"
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
SOLID COVE irregularities like a sloping 4" 5/8" oor or an uneven wall. If your walls and oor arent 1-3/8" exactly straight or level, youll be able to scribe the FLUTED SHELF CASING standards on the backside MOLDING and bottom, and then cut along your scribe for a per2-5/8" 7/16" (TYP.) fect t (see For More 1-3/8" Information on p. 44). 3-1/4" If you decide to include COLONIAL the ladder in your design, STOP CROWN be aware that it could take up to ve weeks for delivery. This shouldnt slow yes, the ladder will roll on you downyou can get carpeting as well. started with the project GETTING STARTED and install the ladder when it arrives. You dont need a fancy Our bookcases were WALL shop to cut the plywood built onto a wood oor. If and build the standards. you have carpeting, youll A set of sawhorses under a DIA. HOLES need to pull back the car- 5/16" sheet of 3/4-in. plywood 12" (TYPICAL) pet and pad and reinstall will work just ne. The rst them later around the base order of business is to rip of the bookcases (see For (cut lengthwise) the eight 66" More Information). And pieces of plywood 95" FLOOR
31"
2
RIP THE 3/4-IN. PLYWOOD into the 13-3/4 in. strips youll later use to construct each of the four standards. Youll need to rip eight identical pieces (see Fig. B) for the standards and one for the top (C).
3/4" VENEERED PLYWOOD HOMEMADE JIG RIPPING MARK

36
13-3/4"
Fig. B Bookcase Details

3" DRYWALL SCREW INTO JOISTS SHIM
45 MITER (TYPICAL)
CEILING WALL
2-5/8"
C
1/2" 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" BRASS ANGLE, 1-5/8" 3/4" SCREWS STANDARD
D D1 D2 H
G E
D H
D D2 D1 D1
1-5/8" 1-3/8" 1-1/8"
SECTION VIEW AT TOP C

CEILING SHIM (TAPERED SHAKE)
1/2" SIDE SHIM
D2
7/8"
7/16"
D
84" FROM FLOOR
1/2" SHIM
A2 A1 A A2 B E L H G G G H K M A2
2"
A1 B E
E H E G M1
WALL 5-1/2" NO. 8 SCREW AND ANCHOR

1/4" DIA. x 1/2" DEEP HOLES FOR SHELF PINS
E E
2-3/4"
3/4"
SET REAR 2x4 (B) IN 1/2" (TYP.)
A1 A2
TRIM PLINTH 1/4" ON RIGHT SIDE
L B
M1
G B F A1
A1 A2 G B A F
PINS (1/4" x 3" LAG BOLTS WITH HEADS CUT OFF)
B
C L
STANDARD
2-3/4"
TAPER ENDS 12"
1/2"
TYPICAL OF ALL PLINTHS AND FLUTED CASINGS
7' ROLLING LADDER (SEE BUYERS GUIDE)
WALL
5/16" DIA. HOLES IN FLOOR
SECTION VIEW AT BOTTOM
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
37
bookcases
TOP OF WORKPIECE
I I I I I I I I I
13-3/4"
3
SCORE the 3/4-in. plywood with a sharp utility knife at a height 1 in. shorter than your floor-to-ceiling measurement in Photo 1. Crosscut along the edge of the scored line to get a splinter-free cut.
1/4" STEEL TWIST BIT CENTER PUNCH STEEL DRILLING JIG
3/4"
4
MAKE A JIG to drill accurate holes for the shelf-support hardware. Drill 1/4-in. dia. holes 2 in. apart and centered 3/4 in. from the edge into a 1-1/4 in. x 1/8-in. x 6-ft. piece of mild steel.
13-3/4 in. wide to make the standards. You can use a table saw, but we prefer to use a circular saw and a homemade rip guide, made from two pieces of straight scrap plywood (see Photo 2 and For More Information). After ripping the pieces, youll need to crosscut the tops to length as shown in Photo 3. The length will be the measurement from your oor to the ceiling minus 1 in. This extra inch of space is needed to slide the bookcase top (C) into position later (Photo 12). After cutting the plywood to size, youll need to drill 1/4-in. dia. holes into the inner sides for the shelf support hardware. These holes must be precise from one standard to the next so your shelves dont wobble. The best way to ensure this is to make a drilling jig. To make your drilling jig, buy a 1-1/4 in. wide x 1/8-in.thick x 6-ft. long piece of mild steel from your hardware store. Mark
it every 2 in. from one end to the other as shown in Photo 4. Next mark centers 3/4 in. from the edge. To keep your bit from wandering as you drill, use a center punch to dent the steel at your mark. Using a 1/4-in. high-speed steel twist bit, drill all the holes. Sand off sharp burrs with 100-grit sandpaper. To nish your jig, drill four 1/16-in. holes evenly spaced along its length so you can tack it to the plywood sides (Photo 5). TIP: Mark the jig with a bit of paint so the top can be identied at a glance. If you dont, you can easily ip it end for end and then get the shelf-hole pattern goofed up! At 84 in. from the bottom, mark each plywood piece (A, A1) for drilling. The A2 pieces dont get drilled. Align the top hole of the jig with your mark. Align the edge of the jig with the back edge of the plywood (Photo 5). Nail the jig to the workpiece
5
NAIL THE JIG (use 3/4-in. nails) to the plywood pieces (A and A1) youve already cut. The jig needs four 1/16-in. holes along its length for the small 3/4-in. nails that attach it to the plywood (see Fig. B). Once the jig is secure to the plywood piece, drill 1/4-in. holes 1/2 in. deep through each of the jig holes into the plywood. NOTE: The two outside end panels (A2) do not have holes drilled into them.
1/4" BRAD POINT DRILL BIT 1/16" HOLE STOP COLLAR

38
17-GAUGE, 3/4" NAIL
TOP OF DRILLING JIG
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I I I I
with 3/4 in. long, 17-gauge nails. To get clean, atbottomed holes, use a 1/4-in. brad point bit in your drill. Use a stop collar on the bit to ensure a 1/2-in. depth, and drill into each hole of the jig. Drill the front holes next, centered at 2-3/4 in. from the front edge as shown in Fig. B. NOTE: Pieces A and A1 are mirror images of each other, so double-check to make sure you drill them correctly.
SANDWICH-GLUING THE STANDARDS
GLUED-UP STANDARD PREDRILLED HOLES
A1 B
CARPENTERS GLUE BACKSIDE OF A
GLUE THE 2x4s between the plywood pieces (A and A1) sandwich style to create the two middle upright standards. Also, glue together an A2 and A1 for the far right standard and an A and an A2 for the far left standard. After gluing, clamp them for at least two hours. Be sure the front 2x4 (B) is flush with the front side of the panels and the rear 2x4 (B) is set in about 1/2 in. The extra 1/2 in. on the back makes scribing to the wall much easier (see text).
Now youre ready to glue the plywood pieces (A, A1, A2) and the 2x4s (B) that make each standard. To make sure you glue the correct sides (A, A1, A2) together, study Fig. B. Cut the 2x4s to the same length as the plywood. Spread glue (about a 1/4-in. bead in a squiggly pattern) on both sides of the 2x4s and place them onto the plywood (Photo 6). Recess the rear 2x4 about 1/2 in. from the back. If your wall is uneven, this will make it much easier to scribe it to the wall later on. TIP: To keep the pieces from drifting as you clamp them, drive a nish nail through the plywood into the 2x4 to hold it in position. Set this nail just below the surface and ll the hole later. Once the glue has set overnight, position each standard in your room to
see how each one ts against the oor and the wall. A gap of 1/8 in. at places against the wall is OK; if the gap is any larger, the standard should be scribed to t. If you live in an old house thats settled considerably, check for a gap on the oor as someone holds each standard against the wall. If theres a gap at the front, scribe the standard to the oor and sand to your mark with a belt sander (see For More Information). If you make any adjustments to the standards, mark them in the order youll install them1, 2, 3 and so on.
INSTALLING THE PINS
A1
CUT LAG SCREW
HACKSAW FILE
3" LAG SCREW
The pins that secure the standards to the oor are nothing more than 1/4-in. x 3-in. lag screws with their heads cut off with a hacksaw. Carefully mark the hole centers as shown in Fig. B, then predrill a
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
7
INSTALL A PAIR of 3-in lag screws in the bottom of each standard. Use a wrench to turn them until the threads are all inside the bottoms of the 2x4s. Next, cut the heads off the screws with a hacksaw and file a slight taper on the bottom of the protruding screw shaft. These pins will hold the standards into holes in the floor (to be drilled later).
39
bookcases
MASKING TAPE DENTILS (D) DENTIL FILLER (D1) 7/16" SCRAP SPACER
I I I I I I I I
D2
GLUE THE DENTIL PIECES (D) to the 1x4 backer board (D2), using masking tape to hold them as the glue dries. Parts D, D1 and D2 must be prestained before gluing. Allow the stain to dry at least a day so the glue will stick. The dentils are made from colonial-style stop that is first ripped to 1-1/8 in. then cut to 7/8-in. lengths. The filler piece at the top is the same uncut stop with the detailed side up. This piece will be hidden by the crown molding (J) later.
3/16-in. hole. Turn the lag to make each dentil. Its screws into the holes with slow-going but the nished an end wrench, leaving look is worth it. We used a 1/2 in. of the shaft exposed power miter saw to cut the (Photo 7). Now, cut the lengths (you can rent one 3/4" 3/4" for about $45 a day) . The heads off the screws and ller piece (D1) at the top le a slight taper near the 1-1/4" side of the dentils (D) is the end to help guide the pins same molding with the into the holes youll be SOLID COVE 4" square side toward the top drilling later into the oor. 5/8" of the dentil as shown in 1-3/8" MAKING THE DENTIL Photo 8. The backer board MOLDING (D2) is 1x4 maple. FLUTED SHELF Nail the ller (D1) to Our dentils (D) are made CASING MOLDING from colonial stop moldthe backer board using ing (also called Princeton 1-1/4 in. brads every 6 in. 2-5/8" 7/16" style; Fig. A ). First, rip off Then glue the dentil pieces (TYP.) the square side so the stop to D2 1-3/8" as shown in Photo 8, 3-1/4" is 1-1/8 in. wide (if you using just enough glue so it dont own a table saw, have doesnt ooze from the sides COLONIAL CROWN STOP this done at the lumberof the dentils. Let this piece yard). Now cut the moldsit for 24 hours before ing into 7/8-in. long pieces handling it.
SHELF (K)
Fig. C Hole location for pins (top view)

WALL
EDGE MOLDING (M)
5/16" DIA. HOLES (TYPICAL)
12"
2-3/4"
2" 31" 66"
9
GLUE THE EDGE MOLDING (M) to the shelf (K). Use masking tape to align the molding and clamp it until the glue sets.
95" FLOOR
10
APPLY MASKING TAPE to the floor where the standards will be placed, then mark the hole locations for the pins (cut-off screws). Use a framing square as a guide to ensure that the holes will be perpendicular to the wall. Be sure to remove the baseboard.
5/16" DIA. HOLE LOCATIONS MASKING TAPE
BASEBOARD REMOVED
40
1" SPACE 5-1/2" DRYWALL SCREW INTO SPACER
TOP MEASUREMENT
STANDARDS TEMPORARY STRINGER
DRYWALL ANCHOR BEHIND WALL 1/2" SHIM
11a
STRINGER
BOTTOM MEASUREMENT
11
TIP THE STANDARDS into position, making sure the 1/4-in. pins fall into the 5/16-in. holes. The standard against the corner wall is spaced 1/2 in. away from the wall and is secured at the top front with a 5-1/2 in. drywall screw driven into a drywall anchor. The screw and anchor will hold the first piece in position while the temporary stringers will hold the rest of the standards parallel. Nail the temporary stringers to each standard, making sure the top width measurement equals the bottom width measurement.
42
bookcases
MAKING THE SHELVES
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
We recommend cutting the shelves at the same time as the standards (see Cutting List, p. 47). Cut the shelf fronts (M and M1) and glue them to the shelves (Photo 9). You can trim the completed shelves
to exact length (the measurement between standards, minus 3/16 in.) when youre ready to install them. This way, they can be prenished along with the other pieces.
PREFINISHING
ll nail holes with colored putty. For a blotch-free even color on the birch, we applied Minwax Wood Conditioner before the Minwax No. 245 pecan stain. Use a polyurethane varnish for durability.
INSTALLING THE STANDARDS AND TOP
1/4" PIN
TAPER
5/16" HOLE IN FLOOR
Its a lot faster to stain and varnish in your shop than it is to painstakingly avoid spilling onto your walls and oor. And you can conne the odor of the nish to your workshop or garage; just be sure your work area is at least 60 degrees F. After the bookcases are completely installed, you can touch up any cut ends with stain and
Remove your baseboard where the bookcases will go. Pull the nails through from the backside with a pliers and set the baseboard aside. Youll reinstall it later between the standards. To help you see the pin location marks for the standards, apply tape on
the oor as shown in Photo 10. Next, carefully measure using Fig. C as your guide. Use a square so your measurements will be perpendicular to the wall, and drill the 5/16-in. dia. holes into the oor for the rst standard (Fig. C). Space the rst standard 1/2 in. from the side wall (Photo 11a). This will provide enough space for the uted front casing (Photo 14) to overhang equal amounts on each side of the standard. To hold the top of the standard away from the wall (Photo 11a and Fig. B), install a shim near the top as shown and secure the standard to the
11b
43
CABINET TOP (C)
bookcases
12
SLIDE THE CABINET TOP (C) over the standards and secure it in place with brass angle hardware (Fig. B) in the front and back of each standard. Be sure the standards are positioned and spaced properly before screwing the top in place. Once the top is secured to the standards, be sure the standards are against the wall. Then screw the top to the ceiling joists in three locations (two screws at each location), shimming the gaps (Photo 13) between the top and the ceiling with wood shims. Note: You may have to use a stud finder to locate the joists. Or install blocks between joists in the attic.
I I I I I I I I I I I
STANDARDS
BRASS ANGLES
Tools
Tape measure Masking tape Screwdriver Hammer and nail set Circular saw Utility knife Framing square Drill and assorted bits, including: 1/4 brad point drill bit 1/4 steel twist bit 1/4 stop collar Center punch Power miter saw Table saw Level Belt sander 10 clamps (6 or larger) 3 clamps (12 or larger) Stud nder File Hacksaw End wrench
CROWN HEIGHT
DENTIL ASSEMBLY CEILING SHIM
MITERED END
13
MITER THE END of the dentil assembly, then cut it to length. Nail the assembly to the front of the standards with 6d finish nails. The 2-5/8 in. distance from the ceiling to the top of the dentil is critical. The bottom of the crown molding profile needs to align with the top of the dentils (Photo 16).
wall with a 5-1/2 in. drywall screw driven into a drywall anchor. Make sure the shim is thick enough so the standard is plumb (Photo 11a). Now cut temporary stringers from scrap 1x2, two pieces 32 in. long and one piece 36 in. long (Photo 11). Drill the corresponding 5/16-in. dia. holes for the second standard into the oor and set it in place (Photo 11b). Nail a 32-in. temporary stringer from the rst unit to the second, making sure the standards are perfectly parallel. Once all the standards are in place, slip the top (C) into position (Photo 12) between the standards and the ceiling. When the front edge of the top is even with the fronts of the standards, screw it to the top of the standards (Fig. B) with 3/4-in. screws and brass angles. Then shim it tight to the ceiling. To lock the bookcases into position, screw the top to the ceiling joists with 3-in. drywall screws, making sure the backs of the standards are against the wall.
For More Information

I Library Shelves, Nov./Dec. 94, p. 43. I Crown Molding, May 90, p. 30. I Scribing for Tighter Fits, Using Tools, May 93, p. 20. I Buying Dimensional Lumber, June 97, p. 79. I Hardwood Plywood, Handyman Reports, Sept. 97, p. 94. I Making Door and Window Casings, Feb. 97, p. 39. I How to Install Carpet, Oct. 94, p. 69.
COLONIAL STOP RETURN (E)
14
NAIL THE FLUTED CASING fronts (use 6d finish nails) to the front edge of each standard after nailing the plinth blocks at the bottom. Also, be sure to nail the side trim (E) even with the fronts of the standards. Since the plinths are wider than the fluted casing, youll need to rip 1/4 in. from the width of the plinth against the wall.
FLUTED CASING (G)
44
PLINTHS (F)
CROWN HEIGHT FILLER STRIP (D1)
bookcases
Use at least six screws to secure the top directly to the joists. You can now remove the temporary stringers.
INSTALLING THE TRIM
I I I I I I I I
1-1/4" COVE MOLDING (H)
15
NAIL THE 1-1/4 IN. COVE MOLDING (H) to the tops of the fluted casing. The cove molding should wrap around to meet the colonial column returns (E).
CROWN MOLDING (J)
MITERED JOINT
16
SET THE NAILS AFTER NAILING the crown molding (J) into the filler strip (D2). Use 4d finish nails every 12 in. to nail the crown molding. Miter each end at the outside corner and butt the other ends against the wall.
First, nail the dentil assembly to the standards as shown in Photo 13. It should be high enough that the crown molding, when installed, will just touch the top of the dentils (D). Our crown molding is 3-1/4 in. wide across its face, and its bottom edge sits 2-5/8 in. below the ceiling (Fig. A). Next, nail the colonial stop (Fig. A) on each side of the standards (E in Fig. B). Nail each piece in place with 4d nish nails every 12 in., aligning it with the front of each standard. After the stop is nailed, nail the plinth blocks (F) at the base of each standard using 8d nish nails. To cover the exposed faces of the standards, nail the uted casing (use 6d nish
nails in pairs every 18 in.) to each standard (Photo 14). Fit it tightly between the plinth and the dentil assembly. To give each uted casing the look of a real column, glue and tack the cove molding (H), mitering the corners around each top (Photo 15). Now to nish the bookcase at the ceiling, miter the crown molding and nail it in place as shown in Photo 16. NOTE: To enhance the built-in look of the project, we continued the crown molding around the entire ceiling. For more on crown molding installation, see For More Information.
THE LADDER
Buyers guide
I
The rolling ladder is a handsome addition to any library. We purchased ours by mail (see Buyers Guide) after sending a dimensioned sketch of our project. All the necessary hardware along with very clear instructions were included. The ladder is a safety hazard for small children, so adult supervision is advised.
Art Direction MARCIA WILLISTON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
ROLLING LADDER and hardware are available from Putnam Ladder, Dept. TFH, 32 Howard St., New York, NY 10013; (212) 2265147. Specify the length of rod (ours is 8 ft.) and the height of the nished ladder (ours is 7 ft.). Available in a wide variety of hardwoods. Rolling ladder kits are also sold by ALACO Ladder, Dept. TFH, 5167 G St., Chino, CA 91710; (909) 591-7561.
SUPPORT ROD
FLUTED CASING (4 in.) and PLINTH BLOCKS (4-1/2 in.) are available in a wide variety of hardwoods from Woodharbor Doors & Cabinetry, Dept. TFH, 3277 Ninth St., Mason City, IA 50401; (515) 423-0444. Call to order or to nd a dealer near you.
I
17
INSTALL THE ROLLING LADDER hardware to the face of the cabinet according to the manufacturers instructions.
46
Shopping List
ITEM QTY. 3/4 x 4 x 8 birch plywood 5 2x4 x 8pine 8 1x2 x 10 pine 1 1x4 x 10 maple board 1 7/16 x 1-1/2 x 10 colonial stop 2 7/16 x 1-1/2 x 8 colonial stop 6 1-1/16 x 4-1/2 x 8 plinth blocks* 4 3/4 x 4 x 7 uted casing* 4 5/8 x 1-1/2 x 8 shelf molding 7 1-1/4 x 8 cove molding 1 3-1/4 x 10 crown molding 1 1/4 peg-style shelf brackets 84 1-1/4 x 1/8 x 6 at steel 1 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 brass angle with screws 12 Carpenters glue 1 qt. 3/4 x 17-gauge nails 1 pkg. 1-1/4 x 17-gauge brads 1 pkg. 4d, 6d and 8d nish nails 1 lb. each Minwax wood conditioner 2 qts. Minwax No. 245 pecan stain 2 qts. Minwax satin polyurethane 2 qts. Colored putty stick 1 7-ft. rolling ladder and hardware* 1 *See Buyers Guide on p. 46 for mail order sources.
Cutting List
KEY A A1 A2 B C D D1 D2 E F G H J K L M M1 QTY. 3 3 2 8 1 1 1 1 6 4 4 1 1 7 14 7 14 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4 x 13-3/4 x 96 plywood (trim to t) 3/4 x 13-3/4 x 96 plywood (trim to t) 3/4 x 13-3/4 x 96 plywood (trim to t) 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 96 pine 3/4 x 13-3/4 x 96 plywood (trim to t) 7/16 x 1-3/8 x 10 maple colonial stop (cut into dentils) 7/16 x 1-3/8 x 10 maple colonial stop (cut to t) 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 10 maple dentil backer board 7/16 x 1-3/8 x 8 maple colonial stop (cut to t) 1-1/16 x 4-1/2 x 8 maple plinth blocks 3/4 x 4 x 7 maple uted casing (cut to t) 1-1/4 x 8 maple cove molding (cut to t each column) 3-1/4 x 10 maple crown molding 3/4 x 11-3/8 x 32 plywood (trim to t) 3/4 x 11-3/8 x 26 plywood (trim to t) 5/8 x 1-3/8 x 32 shelf molding 5/8 x 1-3/8 x 26 shelf molding
47
S H A K E R - S T Y L E
Coat & Mitten Rack

NOTE: Be sure this project is screwed to the wall studs. Drill two holes into the hanging strip at stud locations and use 2-1/2 in. or longer wood screws.
Build this handsome project in just a few hours you wont believe you got along without it! by David Radtke
Project dimensions: 14-3/4" h x 36'' w x 7-1/4'' d
henever it was time to leave the house, my brother Gary used to delay everyone while he searched for his misplaced jacket and baseball cap. Not anymore! Not since I built him this simple coat rack. The design is easy to build with butt joints connected by screws that get hidden by wooden screw-hole buttons and wood plugs. The rack mounts easily to the wall with screws driven through
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER / JANUARY 2002
the hidden hanging strip on the back. The ve large Shaker pegs are great for holding hats, umbrellas and coats, and the hinged-hatch door at the top keeps the clutter of gloves and scarves from view. You can build this project in a few hours, with an additional hour More MITTEN RACK
79
FIG. A
1"
SHAKER RACK DETAILS

1 D
1"
D
HINGE 5/8" 1" FRONT AND SIDES C L
E
1-1/4" DIA. WOOD KNOB
F
6-3/4"
G
GLUE STOP TO SIDE
E
KNOB 1" 1/8" CLEARANCE
2"
1-1/2" NO-MORTISE HINGE
G
1"
A
1"
CATCH 3/4"
B G
3/4"
MAGNETIC CATCH
B
6-1/4"
SHAKER PEG
A
14" 3/4" 6-1/2" 4" RAD.
6-1/2"
C L 3/8" DIA. x 3/16" DEEP COUNTERBORE
C
1/2" DIA. HOLE
SHAKER PEG 1-1/4" 2-1/4" RAD.
1 C
3-1/4"
3/8" SCREW-HOLE BUTTONS (SIDES); 3/8" FLAT-TOP PLUGS (TOP)
1-5/8" SCREW
SIDE APATTERN
DETAIL 1
Shopping List
ITEM
1x8 x 12' maple (A, B, D, E) 1x4 x 6' maple (C, F, G) 1-1/2" no-mortise hinges* 1-1/4" beech knob* Narrow magnetic catch* 3-3/8" long Shaker pegs* 3/8" screw-hole buttons* 3/8" plugs* 3/8" spade bit 1/2" spade bit 1-5/8" wood screws Carpenters glue Danish oil 150- and 220-grit sandpaper * Available from home centers or Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340; (800) 279-4441.
QUANTITY
1 1 1 pair 1 2 5 10 5 1 1 15 1 pint 1 pint
to apply a nish. Maple is an ideal wood for Shakerstyle pieces, but any hardwood will do. Figure on spending about $60 for wood, hardware and varnish.
Cutting the pieces
Cutting List
KEY
A B C D E F G
PCS.
2 1 1 1 1 1 2
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3/4" x 6-1/4" x 14" maple sides 3/4" x 6-1/4" x 32-1/2" maple shelf 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 32-1/2" maple peg strip 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 36" maple top 3/4" x 5-13/16" x 32-5/16" maple hatch 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 32-1/2" maple hanging strip 3/4" x 1/2" x 6" maple hatch stops
Using a compass, transfer the pattern measurements in Fig. A, above, and then cut the sides (A) with a jigsaw (Photo 1). Next cut the top (D) to length and rip the shelf (B) to the width given in the Cutting List, at left. Cut the hanging strip (F) and the peg strip (C) to the same length as the shelf (B). Now, using your spade bit, drill the 3/8-in. counterbore holes for the screw-hole buttons 3/16 in. deep into the outside of parts A (Fig. A and Photo 2). Also drill the 3/8-in. counterbore holes in the top. These holes must be 3/8 in. deep. Mark and drill the 1/2-in. holes for the Shaker pegs in the peg strip. Drill the holes for the Shaker pegs perfectly perpendicular to the peg strip to ensure they all project evenly when glued in place.
Assembly
Lay the pieces on your workbench, as shown in Photo

3. Align the hanging strip (F), the shelf (B), and the peg
strip (C) as shown and clamp the sides (A) to these parts. Predrill the holes with a combination pilot hole/countersink bit using the center of the counter-
80
A 3/8" COUNTERBORED HOLES MASKING TAPE TO MARK DEPTH
1/2" TENONS
CUT the side pieces (A) using a jigsaw or band saw. Sand the curved edges smooth with a 1-1/2 in. drum sander attached to your drill.
1/2" HOLES
bore holes as a guide. Next, screw the sides to B, C and F. Mark and drill hinge mounting holes in the top (D), then fasten the top to the sides in the same manner. Sight down Glue and clamp the the edge of hatch stops to the inside of the peg strip parts A, as shown in to perfectly Fig. A, p. 80. To nish the align each assembly, cut the hatch (E) peg as the to size and install the glue sets. hinges on the underside of part D and the top of the hatch. Now glue the buttons and plugs into their corresponding holes. Use only a small drop of glue for the buttons but be sure to apply a thin layer of glue completely around the plugs. This will swell the plugs for a tight t. After the glue is dry, trim the wood plugs ush with the top.
DRILL the 1/2-in. holes 5/8 in. deep for the 3-3/8 in. Shaker pegs and the 3/8-in. counterbore holes 3/16 in. deep for the screw-hole buttons in parts A.
Tip
D B
A 3/8" WOOD PLUGS
Finishing
After assembly, lightly sand the entire piece with 220-grit sandpaper. Apply two coats of clear Danish oil or polyurethane to all the surfaces (remove the hinges and knobs). Once the nish is dry, add two magnetic catches to the hatch stop (G).
Photography MIKE KRIVIT Illustration EUGENE THOMPSON
3/8" SCREWHOLE BUTTONS
PILOT HOLE AND COUNTERSINK BIT
ASSEMBLE the shelf by clamping parts C, F and B to the sides. Drill pilot holes and screw the pieces together. The screws will be covered by the buttons and plugs.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
81
built-in
No complex wood joints, no tricky techniquesyou simply glue, screw and nail all the parts together
by David Radtke
ou would have loved the library in my old hometown. Its beautifully paneled wood bookshelves were as inspirational as the books they held. This handsome bookcase features those same classic elements the curved brackets, column-like partitions and crown molding. Now you can add them to your living room or Project facts study with this simply Time designed bookcase project. 25 to 30 hours You can build the project Cost as shown from our clear $420 drawings and step-by-step Special Tools photos, or use these techTable saw, 18-gauge niques to modify the dimenair nailer, power sions for your own space. miter saw The partitions shown in Skill Level Photos 8 and 9 can be placed Intermediate wall to wall as shown or can stop halfway into a room and then nish off on the open side. Or you can extend the length by building additional partitions and shelves. This project is made from hardwood plywood, 2x6s, hardwood boards and standard moldings available at home centers and lumberyards. We chose birch boards and plywood along with maple moldings and then used a gel stain (p. 44) to give the project a cherry wood appearance. Youll notice weve also rubbed away stain to create highlights for an antique look. The materials we used are listed in the Shopping List and illustrated in the drawing on p. 34. You can preassemble nearly all the parts of this modular-type project in your garage or shop and carry them into your room for assembly. More BOOKCASE
32
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
33
Classic
1-1/4" 10-1/2"
built-in bookcase
L T
ANGLE BRACKET
FIG. A
K
EACH SQ.= 1"
B
6-1/2"
BOOKCASE DETAILS
T
45-DEGREE MITERS ON ALL CROWN JOINTS
N1
P1 Q1
14"
J BRACKET PATTERN P1 N2
3/8" x 1-1/2" FILLER
R1
Q4
1/4" DIA. HOLES 1/2" DP. 9-1/2"
FACE FRAME
2" 1"
K Q3 S1
Q4 H X F1
P2
Q1
SECTION AT TOP
1-1/8"
K E Q2 R2 Q3 D S1
N1 R1 J
P1
5-1/2" CUTOFF
3" SCREW INTO WALL ANCHOR
M Q1 K Q3 S1 B
Q4
2"
M B B A S1 C
S1
FACE FRAME
F1
X J
A U2 X U3 R1
45-DEG REE MITER (TYP.)
K W2 W1
R2 F2 S2 R2 V
Q3
U5
H C
S1
V F2 U4 R2 U3
44"
U1
45-DEGREE MITERS (TYP.)
R1 V U4
MAGNETIC 3/8" x 1-1/2" LATCH FILLER
U2
S1 K Q3 S2 R2 U1
U5 (SIDE PANELS ONLY)
J H
W2
W2 W1
6-1/4" ANGLE BRACKET
3/8"
W1
1/16" CHAMFERS (TYP.)
SECTION AT WINDOW SEAT
34
Classic
Cutting List
KEY QTY. SIZE & DESCRIPTION A B C D E F1 F2 G H J K L M N1 N2 P1 P2 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 R1 R2 8 8 4 12 12 12 1 8 12 8 8 1 4 4 2 2 1 2 1 8 4 4 3 1-1/2" x 4" x 95" center partition struts 3/4" x 12-3/4" x 95" plywood partition sides 3/4" x 4" x 95" plywood partition fronts 3/4" x 9-3/8" x 39" reinforced plywood shelves* 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 39" hardwood rear shelf supports* 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 39" decorative edge molding* 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 39-3/4" decorative edge molding* 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 95-1/2" partition face stiles 3/4" x 4" x 3-1/4" partition rails 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 3-1/4" partition rails 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 10" curved brackets 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 143-1/2" ceiling cleat* 1-1/2" x 4" x 95" wall cleats 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 39-1/4" soft cleats* 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 42-1/4" soft cleats* 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 39-1/2" front fascia* 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 42-1/4" front fascia* 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 39-1/4" left and right upper llets 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 42-1/4" upper center llets 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" underbracket llets 1/4" x 1" x 6-3/4" face frame llets 3/4" x 10-1/2" x 39-1/4" side base shelf and soft (plywood) 3/4" x 10-1/2" x 42-1/4" center base shelf, soft and bench (plywood) 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 78-1/4" bracket support molding 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 3-1/4" seat bracket support molding 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 10-1/2" side and center base shelf supports 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 7-1/2" side bench supports 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 42-1/4" bench cleats (glued from underneath) 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 4-3/4" base section stops 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 12" side panel base cleats (glue to W1 and W2) 3/4" x 6-1/4" x 10-1/2" plywood center base shelf supports
built-in bookcase
The sandwich-style partitions are the backbone of the project
Cut your plywood lengthwise to the dimensions in the Cutting List to make your exterior partition skin. Equip your circular saw with a new, thin-kerf 40-tooth carbide blade. Use a long cutting guide (available at home centers) clamped to the plywood sheet to guide your saw for straight cuts. Also rip straight 8-ft. 2x6s to 4-in. widths with your table saw for the core of each partition. NOTE: Buy your 2x6s about a week in advance and bring them inside to dry out and adjust. You may have some thatll warp or twist as they adjust to the dry environment inside the house, so buy a couple of extra pieces just in case. Assemble the partitions on a at surface as shown in Photo 2 and then set them aside for the glue to dry. Once the glue is dry, drill the 1/4-in. holes for the shelf pins as shown in Photo 3. Notice the 2-in. gap at the back of the sandwich. This is crucial. Itll allow you to slip the partitions over cleats attached to the wall with room to spare, as shown in MEASURE the width of your Photo 7. TIP: The extra room and the height of the ceiling. Also check the window placement. 1/2 in. of space between the Our room was almost 12 ft. wide with an cleat on the wall and the
More BOOKCASE
8-ft. ceiling, and the window was very close to the center. If theres no window, just build shelves into the center section.
S1 S2 T U1 U2 U3 U4 U5 V
6 2
20 ft. 3-1/4" hardwood crown molding 6 2 2 6 4 6
A B
W1 20 ft. 3/4" x 5-1/2" (1x6 base molding)* W2 20 ft. 3/4" x 1-1/2" (bifold stop molding as base cap)* X 30 ft. 1/2" quarter-round face frame trim*
C B
* Cut pieces to t
GLUE AND NAIL the plywood sides (B) to straight 2x6s (A) ripped to 4 in. wide. Leave a 2-in. gap at the back and a 3/4-in. gap in the front. Next, glue and nail the front 3/4-in. plywood piece (C) so its flush with the sides. Make all four partitions exactly alike and be sure the pieces are all cut 1-1/4 in. less than your ceiling height. Let the glue dry for a couple of hours before assembling.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
35
Classic
built-in bookcase
recess in the partition is convenient for running wiring for low-voltage lights in the softs of the bookcase. We were just storing books, so the lighting wasnt necessary.
BACK EDGE OF PARTITION
Save time: Preassemble the shelves while the glue sets for the partitions
1/4" BRAD POINT BIT STOP COLLAR
9-1/2" CENTER
1" CENTER
MEASURE 12 in. down from the top of your partition and drill 1/4-in. holes, 1/2 in. deep, every 2 in. to accept the shelf pins. Ensure accuracy by making a drill guide from a steel strip, available at your hardware store. Just mark and drill the strip with a 1/4-in. twist bit and youve got a great jig you can use for future projects. Mark one end with paint so you always know which end goes up, then drill three 1/16-in. holes evenly along the length so you can use brad nails to attach the guide to your work surface.
STEEL DRILL GUIDE 12"
1/4" HOLES
2"
4
F D
GLUE and nail 1/2-in. thick hardwood strips on the backside of the shelf (E) and 1-1/8 in. decorative molding to the front (F). An 18-gauge air nailer is worth renting for this task. You can nail the molding as you align it without the possibility of it shifting, not to mention youll be done in less than a tenth of the time required for ordinary nailing.
PAINTED END
While the glue is drying on the partitions, its a good idea to get other parts cut and ready to assemble. Start with the shelves. From measuring the room in Photo 1, youll have a good sense of the shelf length. Make them all about an inch or more too long and trim them later for an exact t. By making the shelves a bit long, you dont have to fuss with perfectly aligning the moldings on the front and back of the shelf as you glue and nail them together. Also, save time by forming an assembly line. C NOTE: Dont make these shelves more than 42 in. long or they may noticeably sag. Our shelves are 39 in. long. The 1/2-in. anti-sag cleat glued to the rear of the shelf is not a stock item, but you can make it on a table saw. First cut 1-1/2 in. wide strips
BRAD NAIL HOLE
2" DRILL GUIDE
1/8" x 1-1/8" x 72" STEEL DRILLED EVERY 2"
More BOOKCASE
36
Classic
built-in bookcase
from a wider board. Then tip this piece on end and cut the 3/4-in. width down to 1/2 in. This step is called resawing and can be tricky because the workpiece gets narrow. Use a push stick to keep your ngers clear of the blade. If this is beyond your adventurous spirit, have the lumberyard folks cut it for you for a nominal fee, and stick to the fun parts of the project. And dont forget, while youre resawing (or having someone else do it), make parts Q. The front molding of the shelf (5/8 in. thick and 1-1/8 in. wide) covers the nasty plywood edge and also stiffens the shelf. This molding came from a local home center. Match it with the prole shown in Fig. A or feel free to use any similar prole with the same dimensions.
5
K (PATTERN)
/4" 7-1
TRACE the brackets (K) from the dimensional grid in Fig. A and cut them out carefully with a jigsaw. Sand the curve smooth with 100-grit sandpaper followed by 150-grit sandpaper.
" 10
J H
CUT the long stiles (G) of the face frame and nail them with 8d finish nails to the short rails (H and J). Use a drill bit to make a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail. Set the nails and fill the recesses with matching putty later.
Trace the curved brackets using the grid method
face frame detail

38
Mark your rst bracket (K) on a piece of 1x8. First lay out a 1-in. square grid on the 1x8, then mark the shape intersections with the grid and draw a smooth line connecting
the dots. Once the lines are drawn, cut out the shape with a jigsaw and use your rst cutout as a template for the rest. Smooth the curve with a drum sander or sanding block.
L M
The partition faces are like super-narrow face frames on cabinets
LEAVE 1-1/8" SPACE FROM SIDE WALL
Because theyre so narrow and dont have to support weight as real cabinet face frames do, you can just nail the face frame parts together as shown in Photo 6 and Fig. A. Once theyre nailed, youll need to sand the front and back completely at to get them to lie nicely against the partition fronts. The tool of choice for this is a random orbital sander (a good $60 tool if you dont already own one). You can start with 80-grit paper and nish with 150-grit.
Glue and screw the partition cleats to your wall
4' LEVEL 1-1/2" x 4" WALL CLEAT
In this article, were assuming you have wood or tile oors, but if you have carpeting, youll need to roll it back, remove the tackless strip, and then stretch and trim it later. Weve also assumed that most of you have drywall over wood studs, but if you dont, use the right anchor for your wall, whether its concrete, brick or plaster. If you have drywall with wood framing, you probably wont hit a stud as you try to screw the partition cleats to the wall (Photo 7). Before fastening the wall cleats, screw a 1x2 cleat to the ceiling so the front edge is 10-1/2 in. from the back wall. This cleat serves two purposes: It helps support the partition and works as a cleat for the fascia (Photo 9). Our ceiling joists ran perpendicular to the wall, so we could get a solid connection into the ceiling every 16 in. (your joists may be 24 in. on center). If the joists are running parallel to the back wall, youll need to use anchors and construction adhesive. Next, drill four 3/16-in. diameter holes along the length of each wall More BOOKCASE
FASTEN the wall cleats to your drywall with wall anchors and construction adhesive. We used a screw-in anchor called an E-Z Ancor with a 3-in. No. 8 deck screw. Use a level to get the first cleat perfectly plumb, then use your tape measure to place the remaining cleats.
TIP the column partitions into place and slip them over the wall cleats. Fasten the partitions to the cleats with 2-in. screws (3 and 6 in. from the ceiling and the floor, respectively). Theyll be hidden later by the upper soffit and lower base of the bookcase. Use a framing square to make sure the partitions are square to the back wall, then fasten them to the ceiling cleat with 2-in. steel angle supports.
ANGLE BRACKET
CUT each fascia piece (P) to fit snugly between the partitions. Cut and fit the cleats (N) as well. Screw the fascia to the ceiling cleat with 1-5/8 in. wood or deck screws.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
39
Classic
built-in bookcase
P2 Q1 Q2
cleat, plumb the cleat into position and then drive a nail through the holes to mark the anchor locations in the drywall. Screw in your wall anchors and then smear construction adhesive on the backside of the cleat and screw it to the wall. Measure top and bottom to the next cleat to ensure theyll be parallel. Install the rest in the same manner. NOTE: Keep the end bracket wall cleats 1and upper 1/8 in. from partition adjacent side walls.
Slip the partitions over the wall cleats and screw them into place
10
R1
Q3 S
CUT the fillets (Q1 through Q4) on a table saw. Sand each piece (100 grit) to soften the sharp edges. Cut and nail each piece into place with a small finish nailer. Glue and nail the brackets (K) below the fascia and fillet. Cut the lower bracket supports (S), center them below the brackets and fillet, and glue and nail them to the partition sides with the air nailer.
Carry the partitions into the room and tip them up carefully to avoid scarring the ceiling. The partitions are fastened only at the top and bottom, as mentioned in Photo 8, so the screwheads will be covered by other parts later. Once the partition is fastened to the cleat, screw the angle brackets to the partitions at the top and bottom 10 in. from the back wall as shown in Photo 9. Use a framing square to ensure the partitions are perpendicular to the back wall. Once the partition is perfectly aligned, drive a screw through the brackets into the ceiling cleat and then into the bracket on the oor.
Install cleats to hold the fascia, soft and base shelf in place
TOP OF FACE FRAME
J H 5-1/2"
G CUT ALONG MARK
11
CUT the tops off each face frame 5-1/2 in. from the top to make room for the column fillets (Q4). Make the cuts perfectly square.
Before you screw the fascia pieces

40
(P) between the partitions, screw a 1x2 cleat (N1 and N2) to the backside of each fascia 3/4 in. up from the bottom. Next, fasten the matching wall cleats parallel to the fascia
cleat against the back wall. To nish the top of each section, cut the soft pieces R and nail them to the cleats. Screw 1x2 strips (U1) to the bottom of the partitions and make
Classic
UPPER FACE FRAME SECTION Q4 Q4 LOWER FACE FRAME SECTION
built-in bookcase
12
CENTER the face frames evenly on the front of the partitions, then glue and nail them to the plywood partition fronts. Glue the fillet (Q4) in place and then glue and nail the top section of the face frame to the top of the partition.
center oor supports (V) from scrap plywood to support the lower base shelves (Photo 15). If you have a oor heat register, remove the cover and install an extension boot (Photo 17).
Dressing up the plain boxes with the right trim makes all the difference
CROWN MOLDING (T)
CROWN RETURN PIECE
18-GAUGE FINISH NAILER
3/8" x 1-1/2" FILLET
CUT AND NAIL the crown molding to finish the joints along the ceiling. Cut and glue small pieces of wood to fill the gaps on the side of each partition behind the face frame.
13
14
BOTTOM SIDE OF CROWN
CUT your crown molding more safely and accurately by positioning the molding upside down on the miter saw bed. Mark the pieces so you can see the mark and slowly cut through the piece. Let the saw fall through the molding. Dont force the saw or hurry the cut.
Start by nailing the llet trim (Q1 and Q2) on the bottom of the fascia. The llet is wider than the fascia, so center it so it extends equally on the front and back of the fascia. Next, glue each bracket (K) to the partition side and nail it to the partition and to the llet above. Working your way down the side, continue with the small llet (Q3). Glue this small piece to the bottom of the bracket with molding glue (a tackier woodworking glue) or carpenters glue. Cut the bracket supports to t between the lmitered let and the oor crown detail to support the curved bracket. These supports are designed to nestle the shelves and hide the gaps between the shelf ends and the partition sides. Cut the center seat (Photo 17) and t the brackets and llets underneath as shown in Fig. A (the seat height is 22 in.). Cut the partition face frames as shown in Photo 11 and fasten them to the partitions. Notice that the plywood front of the partition becomes the background for the face frame. Its not necessary to get More BOOKCASE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
41
Classic
built-in bookcase
CUT AND NAIL the base molding to wrap around the face frame and partition sides. Note that youll need small fillets to fill the gaps in the same way as you did at the top under the crown molding returns. Screw in cleats (U) 6-1/4 in. from the floor on the side of each partition. Also screw the floor cleats (V) to the floor to support the center of each base shelf (R).
a tight t against the ceiling because the crown molding will cover the ceiling joint and the exposed screws along the top of the fascia. Crown molding can be fussy, so if youve never installed it before, see For More Information on p. 44 and buy an extra piece of molding (you can always return the unused piece). Ive installed miles of crown over the years and still found the small pieces a bit challenging this time because the ceiling was somewhat irregular. The baseboard key is to cut the detail pieces uniformly. I like to draw a line right on the bed of my miter saw and always align the molding edge with the saw. Small gaps at the joints can be lled with putty and sanded, so dont drive yourself nuts seeking perfection against a ceiling thats not. Dont bother coping the crown pieces (Photo 13), because theyll be tough to t; miter them instead.
Fitting the base and making a secret compartment
15
R1
U V 3/8" x 1-1/2" FILLET
HEATING VENT EXTENSION
VISUAL GAP
BIFOL D STO P
1x6 BASE
SECRET PANEL
OPEN your secret storage by prying it with a pocket knife or putty knife.
FASTEN CABINET CATCH HERE W2
This project will tie in with the rest of the room better if you replace your existing base molding and carry it through along the bottom of the bookcase. We made a two-piece base with 1x6 capped with bifold stop for the top member. To create a small gap between the two base pieces (Photo 16 and Fig. A), we chamfered the top edge of the 1x6 and the bottom edge of the bifold More BOOKCASE
SUPPORT BLOCK 12" BLOCKS
W1
16
42
ASSEMBLE the removable secret-panel base section to create a secret storage box under the base shelf. Keep the base panel in place with a cabinet magnet catch fastened to the side of the support piece (V).
Classic
built-in
bookcase
stop slightly with a block plane. This lends a traditional custom molding look. To create the secret compartment panels, cut some 12-in. blocks and glue them to the back of the 1x6 base pieces and nail the stop molding to the blocks (see Fig. A). Glue a pair of small blocks to the backside of parts S to create a stop for the secret panels. Install a magnetic cabinet latch to the center base shelf support (V) to hold the secret panel in place.
Fill all the nail holes, then sand and nish the bookcase
Sand the bookcase with 100-grit sandpaper followed by 150-grit. Paint the bookcase if youd like or create the handsome antique nish we did. We used Old Masters Gel Stain (see Buyers Guide) and mixed ve parts Cherry to two parts Red
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION QTY. 3/4" birch plywood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1x8 x 8' birch (fascia and bracket material) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1x6 x 10' birch base molding . . . . . . . . 2 1x6 x 10' birch (face frame parts). . . . . 4 1x6 x 7' birch bracket supports and llet material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Bifold stop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20' 1/2" birch quarter-round. . . . . . . . . . . 30' 3-1/4" birch crown molding . . . . . . . . 20' 1x2 pine cleat strips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24' 5/8" x 1-1/8" x 8' decra molding . . . . . . 7 1/4" steel shelf pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 3" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 dozen 2" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 lbs. 1-1/2" 18-gauge air nails . . . . . . . . 1 box 8d galvanized casing nails. . . . . . . . 1 lb. Carpenters glue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 pt. Magnetic cabinet latches . . . . . . . . . . . 2
EXTEND HEATING DUCT THROUGH BASE
SUPPORT BLOCK
17
ASSEMBLE the window seat by screwing cleats (U2) to the sides of each center partition and then nail the seat to the cleats. Note: The seat is reinforced below by front and rear supports glued to the underside of the seat before it is nailed in place. Glue molding to the front of the seat, then nail the seat brackets and fillets in place as shown in Fig. A.
Buyers Guide
Old Masters Stain can be found at paint supply stores. Call 800-747-3436 for a local dealer. www.oldmastrs.com

I Easy to Install Cove Molding, Dec./Jan. 99, p. 36. I Wall Fasteners, Nov. 96, p. 68.
Mahogany to one part Special Walnut. Blend these in a separate container and apply them to the sanded surface with a clean rag. Apply enough to cover, and remove the excess after a few minutes. Gently remove just enough stain to enhance the grain pattern. A dry brush works to get the excess stain out of the corners. You can rub a bit more aggressively if youd like to reveal some highlights or simulate wear. Let the stain dry and nish the cabinet with two coats of polyurethane varnish.
44
seat with optional cushion

Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Project Design DAVID RADTKE Illustrator EUGENE THOMPSON
Classic bookcases
arch-top
A
36
Molded millwork, off-the-shelf cabinets and inexpensive MDF make these classic-looking bookshelves a snap by Spike Carlsen
rches can be stunning in any room both in how they look and in how difficult they are to build. But the bookcases you see here are stunning only on the first count. Why? The curved top sections and other decorative moldings are made of high-density polyurethane and come just as you see them; all you do is cut them to length and install them. The rest of the bookcase is designed to go together simply too. Its basically a big box with a store-bought cabinet for the bottom, a pair of upright sandwiches for the sides and a pair of frames for the top. The exposed surfaces and shelves of the
DECEMBER /JANUARY 20 07 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
bookcases are made of 1/2-in.-thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF), a material thats inexpensive, easy to work with and a dream to paint. This is a project even those with moderate do-it-yourself skills can tackle successfully. And if you stick with it, you can build and install both bookcase units in a weekend. We used a power miter saw and pneumatic nailer, but you could use hand tools. If you have access to a table saw, you can save time by using it to cut the MDF panels to width instead of the circular saw method we used. All said and done, each of our bookcases cost about $400, not including the base and cornice moldings.
classic bookcase
CORNICE MOLDING 1-1/4 BRADS 1/2 MDF 1x3 TOP FRAMES
F J
1/2 MDF
F
KEYSTONE
N1
N2
ARCH PANEL 1/2 x 1-1/2 STIFFENERS
Z Q
END CAP
A
3/4 MDF
K R
C
1/2 MDF 1x3 CABINET TOP
11-1/2 DEEP x 15 HIGH x 36 WIDE CABINET
CABINET DOORS
T V H
2 DRYWALL SCREWS
B
1x4 UPRIGHT PANEL MOLDING 1x6 CABINET BASE
D
SIDE MOLDING
W S
PLINTH BLOCK BASE MOLDING
Cutting List (per bookcase)

KEY A B C D E F PCS. 4 4 4 2 2 6 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 1/2" x 11-1/4" x 94" upright side panel 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 10-3/4" upright base and top 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 92-1/2" upright front and back 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 36" cabinet base, front and back 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 10" cabinet base, sides 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 36" cabinet top and upper frames, front and back
G H J K L M N1 N2 P Q
6 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2
3/4" x 2-1/2" x 10" cabinet top and upper frames and sides 11-1/2" x 15" x 36" cabinet 1/2" x 13-1/2" x 45" top face panel 1/2" x 4-1/2" x 80-1/2" MDF upright face panels 1/2" x 11-3/4" x 36" cabinet top 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 37" cabinet top front molding 22" faade right arch 22" faade left arch faade keystone faade end caps
R S T U V W X Y Z
2 2 8 4 4 1 6 12 1
1-3/16" x 3-3/4" x 62-1/4" faade legs 1-9/16" x 3-3/4" x 7-1/2" faade plinth blocks 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 9-1/4" side molding horizontals 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 60-1/4" side molding verticals (upper frame) 9/16" x 1-9/16" x 13-1/4" side molding verticals (lower frame) 1" x 4-3/8" x 37" front base molding 3/4" x 10-3/4" x 35-7/8" MDF shelves 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 35-7/8" shelf stiffeners 1/2" x 11-1/4" x 36" bookcase ceiling
37
Working with polyurethane moldings

As a carpenter, I love working with real, honest-to-goodness wood. But even I grew fond of polyurethane moldings the more I worked with them. Crafting the arches from wood would have required advanced woodworking tools and skills or writing one very large check. But the premade arches we used installed quickly and were reasonably priced. Each pair of arches, along with the center keystone, cost about $90; the end blocks, plinth blocks and moldings used to finish the vertical legs cost an additional $115 per bookcase. Polyurethane moldings cut like butter. We used a power miter saw equipped with a 60-tooth carbide finishing blade, but you can use a miter box and fine-tooth handsaw with equally good results. Just as with wood, you need to fill the nail holes with putty, and lightly sand the surface to remove excess putty and small irregularities. But once properly prepared, they accept paint smoothly and evenly. There are drawbacks. Rigid polyurethane moldings arent as hard or as capable of taking a hit as wood moldings. If you have kids who like to play floor hockey or a spouse who likes to vacuum enthusiastically, the base moldings may eventually dent and scratch. Window and door moldings may also take it on the chin when banged by a heavy object. But for decorative uses, where the millwork is going to be painted, theyre a great alternative to wood.
Plan the project and order the pieces

The size of the bookcase is determined by the size of the cabinet its built around. We chose ready-to-assemble frameless cabinets 36 in. wide, 15 in. tall and 11-1/2 in. deep (see the Buyers Guide, p. 46) at a home center. You can modify the design to fit different-size cabinets. Since room heights vary and exact cabinet sizes differ by manufacturer, you may need to modify our dimensions. As you do, remember: I Build your bookcases 2 in. shorter than your room height; otherwise you cant tilt them up into place. I Make sure the back of the cabinet is slightly inset from the back of the uprights; otherwise youll have gaps where the uprights meet the wall.
Cabinets with protruding face frames need to be shimmed out on the back side to keep things square. I You can create side-by-side bookcases by using double width end caps. Most stock cabinet widths are based on 3-in. increments, and the uprights add another 9 in. to the overall bookcase dimension. Before you buy anything, make templates to represent the footprint of each bookcase and experiment with their positions (Photo 1). Adjust the size of your cabinets as needed. If you cover an outlet, youll need to either install a box extender so the face of the outlet winds up even with the back of your cabinet, or cut an oversize hole that allows you to plug in items without risk of the cord rubbing on the edges. If you have wall-to-wall carpeting, youll need to peel back the carpet and pad while installing the bookcases, then restretch the carpet when youre done. See Restretch a Carpet, June 04, p. 92, for more information. To access this article online, go to www.familyhandyman.com. Measure from floor to ceiling, then subtract 2 in. to determine the overall height of the bookcases. This will allow you to build the rough boxes in your shop or garage, then carry them inside and tilt them up into place. A wide range of high-density polyurethane moldings can be ordered by mail or through retailers (see the Buyers Guide, p. 46). Order well in advance so you have all the materials you need before you start.
I
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN DECEMBER /JANUARY 20 07
38
classic bookcase Build the framework

Begin by building the 1x4 frames (Figure
A) for the uprights. Build them 2 in. short-
12" x 45" TEMPLATE
Plan ahead. Lay paper templates on the floor to help you envision the best positions for the bookcases. Measure the ceiling height; youll build the bookcases 2 in. shorter so you can tilt them into place.
BRAD NAILER
SIDE PANEL
Glue and nail the side panels to the 1x4 side uprights. Keep one edge perfectly aligned with the front edge of the frame; let the other side overhang about 1/2 in.
1x4 1/2" OVERHANG AT BACK
EDGES FLUSH AT FRONT
1x3 FRAME (TOP OF CABINET)
er than the floor-to-ceiling measurement and 3/4 in. narrower than the cabinet is deep. We built 10-3/4-in.-deep frames for our 11-1/2-in.-deep cabinet. Then cut the 1/2-in. MDF panels for the sides of the 1x4 frames, making them 1/2 in. wider than the uprights; ours were 11-1/4 in. wide. In addition to hearing protectors, wear a dust mask; MDF dust is super-fine and easily inhaled. See Circular Saw Cutting Guide, Oct. 04, p. 18, for more information. To access this article online, go to www.familyhandyman.com. Secure an MDF panel to each side of the 1x4 frames (Photo 2) using yellow glue and 1-1/4-in. brads. Set the uprights aside. Build two boxesone from 1x6s, the other from 1x3sthe same dimensions as the top of the cabinet. Drive drywall screws through predrilled holes to secure the 1x6 frame to the bottom of the cabinet and the 1x3 frame to the top (Photo 3). Next secure the uprights to the cabinet using clamps, screws and construction adhesive (Photo 4). Keep the front edge of the uprights 1/2 in. back from the edge of the face frame; use a 1/2-in. piece of MDF to ensure proper spacing and shims to hold the parts in proper alignment. Build two more 1x3 frames the same size as those you built for the top and bottom of the cabinets. Secure one between the tops of the uprights and the other one 12 to 14 in. down (or whatever height you wish the lower edge of your arches to be) as shown in Photo 5. Cut and nail MDF to the lower 1x3 frame to create the ceiling, and across the width of the upper bookcase to create the front surface and lock everything together. Finally, install 4-1/2-in. MDF strips to finish covering the fronts of the uprights.
Install the bookcases

With a helper, carry the completed boxes into the room. Measure carefully, then cut out the backs of the cabinets to accommodate any outlets. Tip the bookcases up into place (Photo 6). Use a level and shims to level the bookcases. Youll cover any gaps along the floor later with baseboard molding. Check to see how the uprights fit against the wall. If
Secure the 1x6 frame to the bottom of the cabinet and the 1x3 frame to the top. When youre prebuilding the frames, use knot-free 1x3s and 1x6s for the front pieces (theyll be exposed).
PREDRILLED HOLES 1-5/8" SCREWS KNOT FREE 1x6 FRAME (BOTTOM OF CABINET)
39
classic bookcase
there are gaps less than 1/8 in., fill them with caulk. If there are gaps wider than 1/8 in., either apply a small molding to conceal the gap or scribe and trim the back flanges of the uprights to fit. For more information, see Scribing for a Perfect Fit, Nov. 02, p. 29. To access the article on-line, visit www.familyhandyman.com. Once youre satisfied with the fit, secure the bookcases in place by driving 3-in. drywall screws through the fastening strips and into the wall studs (shown in Photo 11).
GUIDE BLOCK
CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE 1/2" SETBACK FACE FRAME
Easy drywall arches

We arched the top of the existing door opening so it would look more at home with the new bookcases. For ease of construction, we used prebuilt arched corners (see the Buyers Guide, p. 46). The corners we purchased were 4-3/4 in. thickwide enough to accommodate the standard 4-1/2-in. wall thickness plus the thickness of the metal corner bead around the opening. To install each arch, apply drywall compound to the back surfaces, smoosh it into position, then use four 2-in. drywall screws to fasten the arches into place. Once the drywall compound has set, apply self-adhesive mesh tape to the seams, Then apply two to three coats of drywall compound to the seams so they blend in with the existing wall surface.
SHIMS FOR ALIGNMENT
Glue and screw the uprights to the cabinet. Use a scrap piece of 1/2-in. MDF as a guide for maintaining the proper 1/2-in. setback between the front of the uprights and the face of the cabinet.
1/2" MDF TOP FACE PANEL
1x3 UPPER FRAMES
CEILING
1/2" MDF UPRIGHT FACE PANEL
Build two more 1x3 frames. Secure one frame to the very top of the cabinet with drywall screws, and the other one at the desired ceiling height for the cabinet. Sheathe the face, ceiling and legs with MDF (Figure A).
FASTENING STRIP
42
DECEMBER /JANUARY 20 07
CUTOUT FOR OUTLET
Tilt the bookcases into position after making any cutouts to accommodate existing outlets. Extend any floor-mounted heat ducts and registers through the front of the 1x6 cabinet base, using elbows and duct extensions. Shim the base as necessary to level the bookcase. Drive screws through the fastening strip to anchor it.
classic bookcase Install the arched facade

CENTER OF BOOKCASE ADHESIVE LEVEL LINE
ARCH TOP OPENING
As you install the moldings, keep in mind that the adhesive does the real work; brads or nails only hold the molding in place until the adhesive sets. There are two types of adhesive: Decofix Pro is used to secure the moldings to MDF, drywall or other substrate. OracFix Extra is used for molding-to-molding connections.
DECOFIX PRO ORACFIX EXTRA
Draw a level line for aligning the tops of the arches. Center the vertical leg of the arch on the upright, then mark the horizontal leg 1/2 in. shy of the center point of the bookcase. Cut the arch to length, then glue and nail.
CENTERED
UPRIGHT
KEYSTONE
Glue and tack the keystone in place, then install the end caps, centered on the fronts of the uprights. Use molding-tomolding adhesive to secure the end caps to the arches (wear gloves when using this). Then use molding-to-substrate adhesive to secure them to the uprights.
END CAP
Cut the vertical moldings to fit tightly between the lower plinth blocks and the upper end caps. Support the ends of the longer, floppier moldings while handling them. Then glue and nail them into place.
44
You can handnail the moldings, but you risk damaging them with any errant hits. A pneumatic nailer allows you to hold the moldings in place with one hand while driving the fasteners with the other. Draw a level line above the opening in your bookcase (Photo 7) so that when the tops of the arches are aligned with it, the lower edge protrudes into the opening about 1/4 in. Also mark the center of the bookcase. Hold the top edge of one of the arch halves on the line, center the lower leg of the arch on the front of the upright, then mark the horizontal leg of the arch 1/2 in. shy of your center mark. Use a miter saw to cut the arch on the mark you just made; the keystone will eventually cover the small gap. Apply the special adhesive to the back edges of the arch, then use your brad nailer to secure it in place. Repeat the same procedure for the other arch half. When both sides of the arch are in place, install the keystone. Center an end cap below the vertical legs of each arch, then use adhesive and brads to secure them in place (Photo 8). Cut the plinth blocks to the desired height (we made ours 3-1/2 in. taller than our baseboard molding), then use adhesive and your brad nailer to attach them to the uprights. To complete the arches, measure the distance between the end blocks and the plinth blocks, then cut the moldings that go between a hair longer to ensure a tight fit (Photo 9). Secure them into place.
Moldings and shelves

PLINTH BLOCK
We used a 4-in.-tall cornice molding to conceal the 2-in. gap between the top of the bookcase and the ceiling (Photo 10).
classic bookcase
CORNICE MOLDING
FURRING STRIP
10
Install crown or cornice molding to conceal the gap between the top of the bookcase and the ceiling. Run the molding around the entire room to give your bookcases a built-in look.
The cornice or crown molding, as well as the base molding around the entire room, gives the bookshelves a true built-in look. Choose the style that best fits your room. Install picture frames of panel molding on the sides of the bookcases (Photo 11), using the same materials and techniques. Cut the MDF cabinet top (L) to fit, then glue and nail it to the 1x3 frame on the top of the cabinet (Figure A). Glue and nail a piece of panel molding (M) across the front of the cabinet to conceal the edge. We used 3/4-in. MDF for the shelves, then glued and nailed 1-1/2-in. x 1/2-in. pine strips along the front and back edges for strength. Then we determined the height we wanted for our shelves and drilled holes for the shelf support pegs.
Putty, prime and paint

The exposed edges of the MDF near the front of the bookcase are more porous than the rest of the panel. Fill these pores with a light coat of drywall compound, let it dry, then hand-sand the edges smooth (Photo 12). Also, lightly sand the front corners to create a slightly rounded paint edge, which is less likely to chip than a sharp corner. Prime all MDF surfaces with an oilbased primer; a water-based primer will raise the grain and leave a slightly fuzzy surface. The moldings come already primed. Finally, paint the bookcase with a semigloss or gloss paint (either latex or oil). Then kick back and admire your work.
Buyers Guide
We ordered our moldings through the Architectural Products division of Outwater Plastics (www.archpro.com, 800-631-8375) and had them shipped. (Note: As of this date, Outwater is the only company selling Orac Dcor products by mail.) To locate dealers in your area who can order materials for you, contact the company at www.OracDecorNA. com or (800) 648-4217. Other companies offering molded millwork include Fypon (www.fypon.com, 800-446-3040) and Focal Point Architectural Products (www.focalpointap.com, 800-662-5550). Ready-to-assemble Mills Pride cabinets (W3615) with raised panel doors are available at most Home Depot stores. The premade drywall arches (model No. 712) are available through ArchCraft Products (www.creativecorners.net) for $55 per pair plus shipping.
FASTENING STRIP
11
Cut and install the decorative side moldings, as well as the baseboard moldings.
SAND FRONT CORNER
12
Fill the open pore edges of the MDF with drywall compound, let it dry, then sand it smooth. Lightly sand and round the front corner of the bookcase to create a less-likely-to-chip paint edge.
DRYWALL COMPOUND
Art Direction BOB UNGAR Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations FRANK ROHRBACH Photo Stylist RENEE McDANIELS
46
34
Bookcase
This bookcase features simple pocket screw joints and a modular design you can adapt to any room
by David Radtke
ome bookcases have plenty of charm but are shy on actual shelf space. Others will house stacks of books but are short on looks. This elegant design does it all, featuring more than 43 ft. of shelf space. Our multi-component system has two 7-ft. tall end bookcases plus a shorter center cabinet with glass doors to create dust-free storage for electronics or your favorite collectibles. The total width is just over 10 ft., but you can build narrower or wider individual components to custom-size it to t nearly any room.You can build it into a corner as we did, center it along a wall, or if you like, build it wall to wall. The total cost was $1,500. Dont confuse this projects elegance with complexity. The step-by-step building process is well within an intermediate skill level. As far as special tools go, a portable table saw is a must. The at homemade moldings and dentils are simply cut from 3/4-in. thick boards. The face frame and door joints are made with an inexpensive pocket hole jig and can be assembled in minutes. Even if youve never used a jig like this, it only takes about 15 minutes to get up to speed on it. A power miter saw also is a real timesaver, and Id suggest either buying or renting an air-powered nish nailer to save even more time and get better results. Cherry isnt available at home centers.Youll need to nd a specialty hardwood lumber supplier that stocks cherry boards and plywood. If cherry isnt available in your area, consider another hardwood like oak, maple or birch.
Cherry
35

C
FASTEN TO WALL WITH 3" SCREWS (TYP.)
F B F G G
MITER MOLDING CORNERS (TYP.)
TRIM 1-3/4" OVERHANG FROM TOP TO FIT INTO CORNER
R1
TRIM TO 3/4" DENTIL
Q1 B R1
C L START AT CENTER (TYP.)
R4 R3
42" BETWEEN CABINETS AT WALL
TRIM LAST DENTIL TO FIT
1" 2" 1/4" DIA. HOLES, 1/2" DEEP 1-1/2"
R2
SCRIBE EDGE TO WALL
R2
H1
F F R4 R3 R1 Q1 E D B A P J B
R4 R3 R1 H1
FRAME 40" TO FLOOR
U
RETAINER 3/8"
K3
K2
GLASS
R1
N1
C R2 R4 R3 Q2
C L
T1
D W2 W1 E V L2
4-3/4" TO FLOOR 17-1/4"
K1 J
K3 L1
K2
M N2 M
GLASS
T2
B
NOTCH L1 TO FIT
ALL FRAMES ASSEMBLED WITH POCKET SCREWS POCKET SCREW HOLES C L
H2
1"
3" 1-1/2" 1/4"
H1
7-1/4"
B E D
1"
C G
5-1/2"
J K1
L1
5-1/2"
3/4" 2-1/4" 7" 7-1/4"
T1
J
1/4" OVERHANG 1/4" OVERHANG
2" SQUARES
TOP P
ARCH PATTERNS
36
Cherry Bookcase
Sizing up your room
Trying to decide where to install your shelves? First make sure your ceiling height is adequate and theres enough wall space. You can change the dimensions of the project a bit to accommodate your space. Second, check the locations of your electrical receptacles. Make sure they dont fall directly behind one of the cabinet sides. If they do, adjust the placement of the cabinets or move the receptacle. If the receptacle is directly behind one of the tall cabinets, youll need to cut an opening in the back of the cabinet to expose the receptacle and install a box extender. If you need further help with these tasks, see Electrical Safety for Wood Paneling, May 98, p. 64, and Rough-in Wiring, March 01, p. 55. To order a copy, see p. 7.
Cut 3/4-in. plywood sides and tops using your circular saw and a cutting guide. Support your workpiece with 2x4s beneath to keep the cut from buckling and pinching the blade.
SQUARE CUTTING GUIDE
2x4 SUPPORTS
Start with simple boxes

Cut the plywood for the sides, top and bottom to width on your table saw.Youll notice in the Cutting List that the outer plywood sides (E) are 1/4 in. wider than the inner plywood sides (A). This additional width covers the 1/4-in. plywood back nailed to the back of the inner sides so that youll get a nice, right-to-the-wall look viewed from the side. Drill the shelf support holes into the inner sides using a homemade jig like the one shown in Photo 2. It takes a bit of work to make this simple jig, but youll nd tons of uses for it in the shop. The jig will ensure that each row of the shelf bracket holes will be level with each other. Dont bother drilling holes within the top and bottom foot of the sides, since theyll never be used that high or low; see Figure A for hole placement. Screw the sides to the top and bottom panels (Photo 3) with 1-3/4 in. 1/4" BRAD wood screws. Next cut your 1/4-in. POINT BIT plywood back to the dimensions in the Cutting List. Use the factory edges of the plywood back to square up the cabinet as you nail it to the backsides of parts STOP BLOCK A and B.
DEPTH STOP
Make a drilling guide jig for the shelf supports from 1/8-in. thick steel from a hardware store. Drill holes every 2 in. and carefully place the jig on each panel (A) for uniformly spaced holes 1/2 in. deep. Use a stop block to control the depth positioning (photo below). See Figure A for positioning details.
STOP BLOCK
A
SHELF PIN HOLE GUIDE
Predrill and screw the inner side panels (A) to the top and bottom (B) with 1-3/4 in. wood screws. Nail the 1/4-in. plywood back to the inner side panels and the top and bottom to square up the box.
FLUSH TOP
B
TOP
A
INNER CABINET SIDE 5-1/2"

B
BOTTOM
37
1/4" PLYWOOD BACK GLUE AND NAIL G HERE

C
A C
Glue and nail the 2x2 spacers to the sides from inside the box with your nail gun. Complete the cabinet box by gluing and nailing the outer plywood panels to the 2x2. Glue and nail fastening strips (G) in place at this time.
Thicken the box sides for function as well as looks

The bookcases dont need to have double-thick side walls, but thick walls look more substantial and keep books from being hidden behind the wide face frame front. With the simple box completed, add straight 2x2s to the sides as shown in Photo 4. Apply yellow wood glue to the edge and hold it rmly against the side of the box as you nail it with your nail gun from inside the box. Use 1-1/2 in. nails. Be sure the front 2x2 is ush with the inner side (A) and the outer side (E). The back 2x2 is best placed slightly in from the back edge of the outer side so it wont keep the cabinet away from the wall as you screw it in place later. Once you glue and nail the outer plywood sides to the 2x2s (Photo 4), cut the cabinet top to the dimensions in the Cutting List. If youre customizing the cabinets to a different size, cut this top piece 2-1/4 in. deeper and 3-1/2 in. wider than the outer dimensions of the top of each cabinet assembly. Now get somebody to help you carry these two cabinet boxes into your room and get ready to tip them up into place. Be sure youve removed the baseboard around the bookcase location, and save the pieces so you can recut them to t against the bookcase sides once youve nished the job.
2x2 GLUE AND NAIL G HERE
5
A C
1-1/4" WOOD SCREWS
Screw the finished top (F) to the top of the cabinet with 1-1/4 in. wood screws. Make the back flush with the back of E and space the sides evenly. If the cabinet goes against the wall, cut off the wall side of the top flush with E.
1-3/4" OVERHANG
Use a pocket hole jig to help join the face frames and the door frames
6
3"
H1 J J
Cut the arched curves with a jigsaw, smooth them with a belt sander, then drill the backside of the arched front using a pocket hole jig.
If youve ever butt-joined two pieces of wood with dowels or biscuits, youll be sure to appreciate the speed and strength of pocket hole joinery. Unlike dowel and biscuit assembly, theres no messy glue or clamps. Just set the jig on the backside of the rail
KREG POCKET HOLE CLAMP

7-1/ 4"
SCREW PILOT DRILL
SCREWHEAD CLEARANCE DRILL
DEPTH STOP ANGLED DRILL GUIDES
38
Cherry Bookcase
(top or bottom horizontal piece), squeeze the locking plate pliers, drill the holes, remove the jig and then drive the screws through the angle pilot holes into the face frame sides.Youll be amazed at the strength of the joints and how ush the surfaces align. For the best results, be sure you hold the two pieces you are joining down rmly on a clean, at surface so the screw drives precisely for perfect alignment. Check out our article Simple Cabinetry with Pocket Screws, Oct. 99, p.74, for more information on how to use this tool. To order a copy, see p. 7. Cut the curves for the top rails of the face frames and the door frames using your jigsaw and the pattern shown in Figure A. Clamp the cut piece to the side of your workbench or sawhorse and then use your belt sander to carefully smooth the irregularities of your cut. Then just cut the lower rails to length with your miter saw and pocket-screw them together as shown in Photos 6 and 7.
Hold the sides of the frame so the edges are flush and drive the screws into the mating piece with special pocket hole screws. This makes for a super-strong, fast, glue-free joint.
H1 J
FACE FRAME SIDE
FACE FRAME ARCH
/2" 3-1
Plumb, shim and screw the side bookcases to the wall

Chances are your walls and oor have some irregularity like a corner thats not exactly square or a wall slightly out of whack. Start with the corner cabinet and get it reasonably plumb and level with shims. Close is good enough because the project design is somewhat forgiving. Leave about a 1/8-in. gap between the side wall and the cabinet to make room for your face frame to overhang a bit. Screw the corner cabinet to the wall (Photo 9). Once the rst cabinet is set, draw a plumb line 42 in. away from this cabinet. Slide the next wall cabinet over to this line and shim it to be perfectly level with the rst cabinet. Screw the cabinet to the wall through the fastening strips at the top and bottom into the wall studs. With the tall side cabinets securely fastened, bring the face frames into the room and check their t against the faces of wall cabinets. If youre installing one of the cabinets against the side wall as we did, you may need to scribe and trim the face frame
Set the cabinet boxes in the room. Space them 42 in. apart. Shim as necessary to get them both plumb and level. Cover spaces or gaps at the bottom with base shoe molding later.
42"
BASEBOARD REMOVED
Locate the studs and screw the cabinet through the horizontal fastening strip into the wall.
3" SCREW
39
Cherry Bookcase
SCRIBE
10
GAP
Scribe the preassembled face frame to the side wall if your wall is uneven. Make sure the face frame overlaps the inner panel by 1/4 in. on each side.
a bit before you install it (Photo 10). Trim or sand if necessary and then apply glue to the front of each cabinet and nail each face frame assembly in place with your nish nailer (Photo 11).
Build the center cabinet in place

Unlike the anking side cabinets that you build in your shop area, the center cabinet relies on the outer cabinets for part of its structure, so it needs to be built right in the room. Cut the anking side wing pieces (K1), align them with the edges of the face frames, drill a pilot hole and screw them in place as shown in Photo 12. Next cut the support strips (K2 and K3) and screw them to the cabinet sides and back wall as supports for the center cabinet oor and the top (Photo 13). Cut and notch the oor piece (L1) and nail it to the cleats. Next, position the center face frame over the side wings, leaving a 1/4-in. overhang on each side. Then glue and nail it (1-1/2 in. nails) to the wings (K1) and to the front edge of the plywood oor (Photo 14). Be sure to cut the top (P) so it projects 1-3/4 in. past each side wing (K1) and 1-1/2 in. out from the face frame in the front. If the top projects a bit farther than this, all the better, since you can sand it ush with the upper molding strip (R3) later. This way youll be sure that the top strip (R4) will t against the plywood top.
11
Center the second face frame assembly on the box, mark it, then glue and nail it to the front of the cabinet.
H2
12
K1 K1
Screw the side wings (K1) of the center cabinet to the edges of the face frames of the side cabinets. Drill pilot holes and use 1-1/4 in. wood screws. Be sure theyre perfectly plumb and level with each other.
Mass-produce the dentils and spacers ahead of time

Just rip a 1x4 board to 3-1/16 in. on your table saw and another to 1-1/2 in. wide. Mark a line on your miter saw to cut the wider board into 2-1/4 in. lengths to make the dentils. Change the mark to cut the narrower board into 3-1/16 in. lengths to make the spacers. Next rip a couple of 1x4 boards to 1-in. widths to make the upper moldings R3 and R4. Mark the top center of each cabinet, then grab three dentils and mark the center bottom of each. Align the marks and nail the dentils smack in the middle of the cabinets up against
40
Cherry Bookcase
the projecting plywood tops. Next, nail a spacer on each side and work your way to the side of each side cabinet. Nail a 1/4-in. x 2-1/4 in. llet on the side of each cabinet to fur out the dentil moldings to keep them aligned. Measure and cut this piece carefully so it ends up ush with the overhanging face frame. Note: Make the dentils visually equal at the corners (Photo 15). To achieve this, trim the side corner 3/4 in. less than the front corner dentil. To nish the top cornice of each bookcase, cut the molding strips to length on your miter saw and nail them with 1-1/2 in. nails. After the rst strip is in place, check the overhang of each top. The top edge should be ush with the face of R3. If the pieces arent ush, sand them ush with a belt sander.
K2 K3
13
Level and screw the cleats (K2 and K3) to the cabinet sides and wall studs with wood screws (1-1/4 in. screws on the sides and 2-1/2 in. screws into the wall studs).
40" TO TOP
K2
K3
4-3/4" TO TOP
14
FACE FRAME ASSEMBLY
N1 K1
Cut and nail the center cabinet floor (L1) to the lower cleats, then glue and nail the center face frame assembly to the side wings (K1) and floor (L1). Then cut and nail on the top (P).
Get the spacing right on your inset doors

Inset doors are often considered difficult to install because they have to t precisely inside the face frame. First, cut the pieces, then assemble each door using your pocket hole jig. Next, clamp the doors together at their center stiles with spacers between them and set the assembly up to your opening (Photo 17). You may need to trim an edge or two with your table saw, and for ne adjustments, use your belt sander. To hang the door, use simple face-mount hinges (see Buyers Guide, p. 46). Just shim the doors as shown and then drill pilot holes holding the hinge in place. Work in one screw at a time to get perfect hinge placement. Once the doors are mounted, remove the hinges until after nishing. Shaping a recess for glass along the inside of the door can be a hassle, so to keep things simple, we devised a much easier method than routing it out. All you need to do is cut strips and glue and nail them to the backside of the door. Leave a 3/8-in. lip for the glass to sit on and then buy simple glass retainers at a hardware store. Then order the glass. Get tempered glass from a glass supplier because regular double-strength glass is prone to breaking. The nal step to great-looking doors is to make the muntins that overlay the glass (Photo 20). Measure up 17-1/4 in. from the
M L1 M
N2
CABINET FLOOR FLUSH TO HERE
Q1
FILLET TRIM TO MAKE VISUALLY EQUAL
15
CABINET TOP
R2
SPACER
Q2
FILLET
R1
DENTIL
1-1/4" NAILS
Mark the center of each cabinet. Center the first dentil (R1) over the mark and then nail the dentil spacers (R2) between each pair of dentils. Use 1-1/4 in. brads in your nail gun. Trim the dentils at the corners to ensure even wraps around each side of the corner.
42
Cherry Bookcase
R4 R3
1-1/2" NAILS
16
Miter the ends of the upper trim strips R3 and R4 and nail the first strip to the dentils and the upper strip to the cabinet top.
bottom of the door glass opening and then measure, cut and place the rst horizontal piece so the bottom edge of it aligns with the mark. Mark these strips so youll get three equal glass sections. Cut angles on the tops to follow your curve. Once youre happy with how they t, mark the muntin placement onto the door, mix up some clear epoxy (Photo 20) and glue the assembly to itself and the door edge. Note: Place wax paper under joints to keep the epoxy off the glass. Once the glue is set, clean up any excess at the joints with a le or sandpaper.
SPACER
T1
T2 T2
SPACER
LEGAL PAD
17
44
Cut the door stiles (S) and the door rails (T1 and T2) and assemble them with pocket holes and screws as shown in Figure A. Trim the doors and set the top and side clearance. Use tablet backer board from a legal pad for spacers. Use double spacers at the top, bottom and center and use single spacers at the sides against the face frame. Install the facemount hinges and magnetic catches at this time.
Cherry Bookcase
Cut the shelves from 3/4-in. plywood
Rip the plywood and then cut it to length (3/16 in. less than the inside measure) for the shelf blanks. To give the shelves a solid wood look, rip strips 1-1/4 in. wide and then 1/2 in. thick, cut them the same length as the shelf blanks and glue and nail them to cover the plywood edge. The center shelf is made the same way. Just rip the plywood to 11-7/8 in. wide and cut the solid edge strip and nail it in place so the strip falls between the inside faces of the side wings (K1).Youll also need to drill holes into the center cabinet sides for the shelf supports.
18
TEMPERED GLASS
Cut 3/16-in. strips from 3/4-in. thick material, then glue and tack it (5/8-in. brads) to the inside of the door. Leave a 3/8-in. lip for the tempered glass panels.
U U
3/16" x 3/4" STRIPS
Cherry can be fussy to nish
19
GLASS RETAINER STRIPS NYLON RETAINER
Buy nylon storm window glass retainers from a hardware store along with No. 4 brass screws to secure the glass.
To help get the Watco Cherry Finish as even as possible, we used Minwax Pre-nish Wood Conditioner rst and then applied the color. This cut down on the blotchiness, and sanding lightly over trouble spots gave us a good look. After three days, we applied satin polyurethane for a nice, even, durable sheen. If you hate fussy nishing, apply a clear oil or varnish and the cherry will darken naturally with age.
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION 3/4" cherry plywood 1/4" cherry plywood 1x4 x 7' cherry 1x6 x 8' cherry 1x8 x 8' cherry Door hinges (see Buyers Guide) 3/16" tempered door glass (measure to t) Magnetic door catches Yellow wood glue Door glass retainers No. 4 brass screws 1/4" shelf supports Pneumatic gun nails (3/4", 1-1/4", 1-1/2") 1-1/4" wood screws, box of 100 1-3/4" wood screws, box of 100 Epoxy glue Watco Cherry Finish 1 1 1 2 qts. QTY. 5 2 12 5 1 2 pr. 2 2 1 pt. 12 12 44
20
Cut muntin strips on your table saw and glue them to the ends of the rails and stiles with epoxy. Be careful not to slop glue on the wood faces or it will block your finish stain.
EPOXY GLUE
MUNTINS
Buyers Guide
You can buy the hinges (No. 76067; $7.29 per pair), door pulls (No. 73472; $11.99 each), shelf supports (No. 33902; $3.69 per package), magnetic catches (No. 26559; $1.49 each) and Kreg jig (No. 22446; $59.99) from Rockler Hardware (800-279-4441 or www.rockler.com).
46
Cutting List
KEY A B C D E F G H1 H2 J K1 K2 K3 L1 L2 M N1 N2 P Q1 Q2 R1 R2 R3 R4 S T1 T2 U V W1 W2 X PCS. 4 4 2 8 4 2 4 2 2 4 2 4 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 4 2 32 28 16' 16' 4 2 2 17' 10 10 1 5' SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 11-5/8" x 84" inner plywood cabinet sides 3/4" x 11-5/8" x 33" plywood cabinet top, bottom 1/4" x 34-1/2" x 83" plywood cabinet backs 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 84" pine 3/4" x 11-7/8" x 84" outer plywood cabinet sides 3/4" x 14-1/8" x 42-1/2" plywood cabinet tops 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 33" upper and lower fastening strips 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 32-1/2" face frame arch 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 32-1/2" face frame base 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 84" face frame sides 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 40" center cabinet side wings 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 11-7/8" cabinet cleats 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 40-1/2" wall cleats 3/4" x 17-3/8" x 42" plywood center cabinet oor* 3/4" x 11-7/8" x 42" plywood center cabinet shelf* 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 40" center face frame sides 3/4" x 3" x 35" center face frame top 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 35" center face frame base 3/4" x 19-5/8" x 45" plywood center cabinet top* 1/4" x 2-1/4" x 11-7/8" cabinet side llets 1/4" x 2-1/4" x 4-3/4" cabinet side llets 3/4" x 3-1/6" x 2-1/4" dentils 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 3-1/16" dentil spacers 3/4" x 1" upper molding 3/4" x 1" top molding 3/4" x 2-1/4" x 31-1/2" door stiles 3/4" x 7-1/4" x 12-15/16" arched door rails 3/4" x 3" x 12-15/16" bottom door rails 3/16" x 3/4" glass edging* 3/4" x 11" x 32-13/16" plywood shelves 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 32-13/16" shelf nosing 1/2" x 1-1/4" x 40" shelf nosing 5/8" x 5/8" door muntins*
* Cut to t
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art GENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
47
Bridge
By David Radtke
Wooden
38
SEPTEMBER 1996
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
wooden bridge can be practical or pretty, carrying you over a backyard pond, or just gracing your garden. We like to think ours is both. It stretches over 9 ft. from end to end with a gentle upward curve, and its strong enough to support several adults. You can build this bridge in about four days if youre determined, but if youd like to savor the process it can take as long as you like. The bridges sturdy beams are made from seven 5-in. wide x 3/4-in. thick clear redwood boards that are glued and screwed together to form the curve. To make your life easier, have the 1x6 boards narrowed from 5-1/2 in. wide to 5 in. at the lumberyard. You can make the simple bending form shown in Fig. A from a single sheet of 3/4-in. CDX plywood and two 8-ft. 2x4s. All together, the wood and hardware will cost you about $650. For a complete Shopping List, see p. 43.
WARNING: This bridge is designed for walking use only. Do not use for heavy equipment or more than four adults. It is not a childrens play piece. Railings do not meet code for attached decks.
4' NAIL
Bridge
FORM HALVES
14' 9" RADIUS
STEEL WIRE
2x4 FORM SUPPORTS
4x8 x 3/4" PLYWOOD
SABER SAW
2" SCREWS
MARK the curves for the bending form on a sheet of 3/4-in. plywood. Set the plywood so the center of the sheet is 177 in. from the nail. Fasten a steel wire to the nail and attach a pencil to the end of it. Mark the middle and work your way to each edge. Next, cut the plywood along the curve, then trace this shape onto the leftover piece so you have two identical pieces.
SPECIALLY COATED NUTS
JOIN the two halves of the bending form. Screw each side to 2x4 supports using 2-in. galvanized screws every 8 in. Be sure to position the top support 2-1/4 in. below the edge of the form as shown in Fig. A to allow room for support blocks.
3
SCREW LOCATIONS
T-NUT
CLAMP
2x4 SUPPORT BLOCK
SCREW LOCATIONS
STACK the boards for the first beam and mark the center of the stack. Make marks at 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 47 and 58 in. from the middle toward each end. These marks will help guide your screw placement later, and the 47-in. marks will be the T-nut locations on each end.
2" STOVE BOLT
3/4" x 5" x 10' CLEAR REDWOOD
4
40
5
BOLT the support block to the first board after drilling holes in the top of the board to hold the T-nuts. Use a 7/8-in. spade bit to mortise the T-nut 1/8 in. below the surface. The support block will hold the board firmly to the form as you bend it. See Fig. A, Detail 1, for the exact locations of the T-nuts and bolts.
CENTER the first board in the form and fasten one support block to the form with three 2-in. screws on each side. With one end secure, push down on the opposite end and screw the other support block to the form.
2" GALV. SCREW
2x4 SUPPORT BLOCK
FORM
FIG. A WOODEN BRIDGE FORM AND STRUCTURE
3/4" x 5" x 10' CLEAR REDWOOD (7 PIECES PER BEAM) TYPICAL REFERENCE MARKS ON BOARDS C L 8" 16" 2" GALV. SCREWS, COUNTERSUNK 1/8" (ALL SCREWS 1-1/4" FROM EDGE) 24" 32" 47" 58"
1/4" T-NUTS, COUNTERSUNK 1/8" 1-1/4"
47" FROM CENTER
1/4" x 2" STOVE BOLTS
GLUE BOTH SURFACES (TYP.) 1-1/4" GALV. SCREWS COUNTERSINK 1/8" (SECOND BOARD ONLY) 14' 9" RAD. 2x4 x 10" BLOCK
3/4" PLYWOOD CENTER GUIDE; SCREW TO BACK 23-7/8" CUT BOTH PIECES FROM 3/4" x 4' x 8' PLYWOOD 2x4 x 8' (2 REQD.) C L 2" SCREW EVERY 8" (TYP.) 2-1/4" BEAM 3/4" SPACER TO ELEVATE SQUARE MARK LINES INSIDE FOR CUTTING
SCREW BLOCK TO FORM
1
T-NUT
DETAIL 1
SQUARE 9-3/4" 8-3/4"
BENDING FORM
3/4" x 5" x 10' CLEAR REDWOOD (2 PIECES PER RAIL)
2" GALV. SCREWS INTO POST
1-1/4" GALV. SCREWS FROM BELOW
GLUE BOTH SURFACES
CUTTING BEAM END

3" GALV. SCREWS (2 PER POST)
7/16" DIA. STEEL SPIKE; BORE MATCHING HOLE IN BEAM
10" DIA. x 24" CONCRETE FOOTING
BEAM (2 REQD.) 4x4 x 22" POST (8 REQD.) 1-3/4 x 5-1/4" NOTCH 1/4" x 4" LAG SCREW AND WASHER; PREDRILL AND COUNTERSINK 3/8" (2 PER POST) RAIL 2x6 x 48" DECK BOARDS (20 REQD.) 3" GALV. SCREWS (2 PER SIDE)
POST 23-1/2" DECK BOARD 23-1/2" C L 23-1/2"
BEAM
SECTION VIEW THROUGH SIDE
8-3/4"
8'
8-3/4"
ELEVATION VIEW
Bridge
1-1/4" SCREWS COUNTERSUNK 1/8" GLUE BOTH SIDES
TIP: Buy good deck screws. I purchased some cheap galvanized screws and the heads kept breaking off as I tightened them. I returned them and bought some high-quality ones, and none broke.
GLUE the top of the first board and the underside of the second. Now, screw the second board to the first with 1-1/4 in. galvanized deck screws. Predrill and countersink the holes 1/8 in. deep to get a good bite. Continue gluing and screwing each layer, but use 2-in. screws after screwing the second board to the first, to increase the holding power. Use the reference marks to avoid running into the screws on the layer beneath. Let the glue dry for 48 hours.
T-NUT LOCATION FRAMING SQUARE
9-3/4"
TIP: To protect your beams from the elements, brush on some deck sealer and let it dry before installing them outside.
TOP LAYER 3/4" MARKING SPACER
SUPPORT BLOCK
BELT-SAND the sides of each beam after removing it from the form.
SEVEN-LAYER LAMINATED BEAM
MARK the finished dimensions on the beam using a 3/4-in. spacer board and a framing square. Align the T-nut locations with the 9-3/4 in. mark on the inside of the framing square blade. When cutting along this line, you wont cut into any screws or T-nuts hidden in the beam. Cut each beam to its final size with a circular saw, followed by a handsaw.
DIG 24-in. deep holes using a post hole digger. We used cardboard tubes (available at home centers) to support the sides of the footing, but if your soil is firm, you wont need them. The holes must be laid out so the diagonal measurements from one side to the other are equal. The span distance between the centers of the footings should be 102 in. The centers of the footings must be 39-1/2 in. apart. Fill to the top with concrete (Photo 10). Make sure the tops of the footings are level with each other as shown in Photo 10. While the concrete is still wet, install a 12-in. landscaping spike into each footing so its 3-1/4 in. above the surface. Youll need about 1-1/4 60-lb. bags of concrete mix for each hole.
POST HOLE DIGGER FOOTING MARKER LOCATION
42
SEPTEMBER 1996
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
ALL FOOTING TOPS MUST BE LEVEL WITH EACH OTHER
BEAM
DAVE
SPIKE CONCRETE FOOTING
SPAN MEASUREMENT (102")
7/16" DRILL BIT SPIKE
10
MEASURE the exact distance between the spikes and drill corresponding 7/16-in. dia. holes in the bottom of the beams. Be sure the concrete has dried at least a day before doing this step.
11
PLACE the beams onto the spikes and push them down until they rest on the concrete footing.
BEAM
2x6 DECKING
7/16" DRILL BIT SPIKE
NOTCH TEMPORARY BRACE FOR SPACING
12
14 4 2 20 1 1 1 2 lbs. 5 lbs. 6 lbs. 16 16 8 8 4 1 gal. 5 1 gal.
MARK your post locations as shown in Fig. A. The posts will follow the curve of the beam. The 4x4 posts are notched to fit over the outside edge of the beams. Cut the notches with a circular saw followed by a handsaw.
13
SHOPPING LIST
1x6 x 10 clear redwood (beams) 1x6 x 10 clear redwood (handrails) 4x4 x 10 redwood (posts) 2x6 x 4 construction grade redwood (decking) sheet of 3/4" CDX plywood 8 2x4 (form) 10 2x4 (form and blocks) 1-1/4" galv. deck screws 3" galv. deck screws 2" galv. deck screws 1/4" x 5" lag screws 1/4" washers 1/4" T-nuts 1/4" x 2" stove bolts and washers 12" landscape spikes Titebond II wood glue 60-lb. bags of concrete mix deck sealer
SCREW the decking to the beams with 3-in. galvanized screws. Cut the decking to fit snugly around the posts. Be sure the beams are 44-1/2 in. apart from outside to outside. Use a temporary spacer board on each end to hold the beams in place.
14
CENTER the first board of the 5-in. wide handrail on top of the posts and screw it in place. Next, spread glue on the top of the first board and the underside of the top one. Fasten the top rail to the bottom rail with 1-1/4 in. deck screws. Apply clamps on each end until the glue dries. File the corners and edges of the handrail and sand away any glue that oozed between the boards. After a few days, apply a coat of deck sealer to keep the boards from cracking. TFH
Art Direction MARCIA WILLISTON Illustrations EUGENE THOMPSON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE
CLAMP
GLUE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 1996
43
34
MARCH 2004 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Timber frame garden arbor

You can cut perfect, old-style joints with standard tools . . . and keep all the fasteners out of sight
by David Radtke his timber garden arbor can be your place to get away for a quiet retreat or a delightful lawn sculpture that you gaze at through your kitchen window. Building it is enjoyable too. The main structure goes together like an old-fashioned timber frame with tenons and notches you cut into wooden 6x6s with your circular saw and handsaw. The main posts are anchored in the ground with concrete, and the roof and sides are made of dimensional treated lumber screwed to the treated 6x6s. Our project cost about $450 and took about three days to build with plenty of break time. After waiting about three weeks to give the wood ample time to dry out, we applied an exterior oil stain.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN MARCH 2004
35
Cut the 6x6s to length and then cut the notches in the tops with your circular saw. First cut lengthwise, then make the crosscut and finish the cut with your handsaw. Clean the bottom of the notch with a sharp chisel. Screw temporary 59-in. long 2x4 crossties to the posts near the top and 16 in. up from the bottom.
TOP
Shopping for treated lumber

When youre looking for lumber at the home center, make sure to pick out 6x6s that are fairly dry and free of twists and large cracks. The same goes for the other treated dimensional lumber youll need for this project. However, dont be disturbed by the green color of the wood at this stage. A quality semi-transparent oil stain will give you a nice, warm wood tone.
6x6
You may want to rent a 10-in. circular saw

You can cut the notches into the 6x6s (Photo 1) with a standard 7-1/4 in. circular saw and a sharp handsaw, but a 10-in. circular saw will make quick work of it. Be aware, however, that these saws are heavy and a bit awkward to handle. If you decide to use the smaller circular saw and handsaw, use the handsaw to get the extra depth you cant get with the circular saw and to clean up the notches.
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION 6x6 x 10' treated posts and lintels
TEMPORARY 2x2 HORIZONTAL SUPPORT
BOTTOM
TEMPORARY 2x4
Tip and drop the rear assembly into the 16-in. deep x 12-in. diameter holes. Screw temporary supports to stakes and then to the assembly to plumb it. Once the rear assembly is level and plumb, drop the front assembly into the holes and screw it to the back assembly with temporary 2x2 horizontal supports top and bottom. Square the legs by measuring and making the diagonals equal between opposite legs.
QTY. 6 2 2
2x2 x 8' supports 2x4 x 8' treated beam anges, ridge beam and ridge supports 2x4 x 10' braces, supports
6 2 2 1 1 11 4 2 3 16 2 lbs. 2 lbs. 2 lbs.
DIA GO NA LB RA CE
BRACE
2x6 x 8' treated seat slats 2x6 x 12' treated rafters 2x8 x 12' treated beam and brackets 2x10 x 8' treated seat braces
REAR ASSEMBLY
5/4x6 x 8' roof and side lattice Simpson A-23 steel angles Simpson TP39 tie plates 80-lb. bags of concrete mix 1/4" x 3-1/2" lag screws, washers
FRONT ASSEMBLY
10d nails 1-5/8" screws 3" deck screws
36
Figure A Arbor Assembly

62" 2" 1-7/16" 22" 35-3/16" 2" 1-3/4" 39-9/16"
CUT FROM 2x6
18-1/4
5-1/2" 45 (TYP.) 1-13/16" 7-1/4" (TYP.) 3/4"
H G
4-1/2"
DETAIL 1 RAFTER
2-3/4"
C K
J E
3" x 9" TIE PLATE
5-1/2"
16-1/4"
DETAIL 2 POST AND LINTELS
5-1/2" 8-1/2"
G C E DETAIL 3 RIDGE J 1
J
STEEL ANGLE AT EACH RAFTER
C E
J C
B
1"
D 4 D
2"
7"
B N2 D
DETAIL 4 POST BRACKET
N1 A
3" RAD. 37" BETWEEN POSTS
48" BETWEEN POSTS
1/2"
N2
M1
M2
A M1
73-1/2" FROM TOP OF BEAM
M1 M2
7" 12" DIA. x 16" DEEP HOLE; FILL WITH CONCRETE (TYP.)
M2
3/4"
L L
2" SET POSTS 16" INTO GROUND
DETAIL 5 SEAT
37
Cutting List
KEY A PCS. 4 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 5-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 105-1/2" treated posts 5-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 42-1/2" treated side lintels 5-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 76" treated front and back lintels 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 12" post brackets 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 45" center beam anges 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 45" center beam 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 22-1/2" ridge beam supports 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 45" ridge 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 62" rafter 1" x 5-1/2" x 45" roof lattice 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" x 12" seat braces 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 37" outer seat slats 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 45" inner seat slats 1" x 2-11/16" x 80" vertical side lattice 1" x 2-11/16" x 37" horizontal side lattice
LEVELING SHIM
Mix concrete and pour it into each hole around the post. Let the concrete set for two days before continuing.
H
TENON
1 4 14
J K
SIDE LINTEL B
M1
M2
N1
N2
Remove the braces, cut the side lintel tenons with your circular saw and handsaw, and lower each into the front and back post notches. Screw the joints together with 3-in. deck screws.
10" CIRCULAR SAW
FRONT LINTEL 1" CHISEL
Its easier to cut the notches in the front and back lintels with a 10-in. circular saw. You can rent one for about $40 a day to make quick work of the post cutting.
Break out the chips and clean the bottom of the notch with a sharp chisel. Finish smoothing it with a coarse file.
38

Stand the two end assemblies and ll in the concrete
To get this structure to behave and end up square, measure the holes carefully and dig each one about 16 in. deep and 12 in. wide with a posthole digger. Tip: What do you do with the extra dirt? I always lay a tarp right next to where Im digging and dump the soil right onto it. Then I can drag it around to any location on the lot that needs a bit of ll. Join the front posts as a pair (Photo 2), then do the same with the rear. Stand the rear assembly (get a friend to help) and stick the bottoms of the posts into the rear holes. Now drive some stakes into the ground while one person holds the assembly. Plumb the posts with temporary braces fastened to the stakes and posts, then level the horizontal ties at the bottom with shims. Once this assembly is secured, insert the front post assembly into the front post holes and fasten it to the rear assembly with the 2x2 horizontal side supports as shown in Photo 3. With the front secured to the rear assembly, make sure the front posts are at right angles to the rear posts and the diagonal measurements between the posts are equal. Add additional braces if necessary. Mix the concrete for your posts in a tub or wheelbarrow. Mix no more than two bags at once and then mix more as needed. We used about three 80-lb. bags, but the amount depends on the hole diameter and depth. Dump the concrete into each hole and then pack it around the posts with a scrap 2x2. Bring the concrete up to grade level (Photo 4) and then berm it slightly to keep water from collecting at the bottom of the post every time it rains.
NOTCH SIDE LINTEL B
FRONT LINTEL C
Lift the front and back lintels onto the tops of the posts and push them back until theyre flush with the posts. You may need to persuade it a bit with a hammer and a block of wood. Screw the lintels into place with 3-in. screws angled in from the top.
POST BRACKET D
Cut the post brackets with a jigsaw and then smooth the curves with your belt sander (80-grit works best).
3" SCREWS
10
Screw the brackets to the posts with 3-in. deck screws. Be sure to drill a pilot hole to avoid splitting the brackets.
39

Lock the lintels together with 3-in. screws
The tenons and mortises are traditionally held together with dowel pins, but because this structure is exposed to the weather, its best to lock them into place with 3-in. galvanized screws driven at angles from above. As you place each lintel, you may nd that youll need to either squeeze or separate the top ends of the posts a bit to get them to fall into place. This is because one or more of the posts may be slightly out of plumb. Screw in the brackets (D) as shown in Photo 10.
CENTER BEAM ASSEMBLY F 1-1/2" SETBACK
11
Cut and assemble the parts for the center beam and then center and screw it to the front and back lintels.
Make the center beam from 2x4s and a 2x8

Screw the 2x4 parts (E) to the center 2x8 (F) to create an I-beam thatll run from front to back and support the roof members. Get the beam positioned 1-1/2 in. from the outer edge of both front and rear lintels (Photo 11). Screw it into place with 3-in. screws. Next cut the ridge supports and the ridge and fasten them as shown in Photo 12. The top ridge has a 45-degree bevel on each top edge. Make a mark 7/8 in. down from the top edge of the 2x4 ridge board on each side. Temporarily nail the ridge to the sawhorse tops, set your circular saw at a 45-degree bevel and cut along the line on one side. Then pull the nails and reposition it to cut the other side. Screw the ridge to the ridge supports, making sure it rests 3/4 in. down from the top of the ridge supports. Cut the remaining roof parts and assemble them as shown in Photos 13 15.
GE RID
12
Screw the ridge support (G) to the center beam and then fasten the ridge to the support with 3-in. deck screws.
Sand the arbor to get rid of rough edges

Sand it? you say? Well, this isnt a ne piece of furniture, but you will have a few rough edges and corners that could give you splinters. Just go
13
Cut the rafters (J) as shown in Figure A using your jigsaw and circular saw. Complete one, then use it as a pattern for the rest.
40
RIDGE SUPPORT
RAFTER J
BIRDSMOUTH CUT
14
Measure down 4 in. from the top of the ridge support, make a horizontal mark with your square and align the top edges of the rafters with your mark. Screw the rafters to the support and then use Simpson A-23 angles on the backside of the birds-mouth notch to connect the rafter to the beam.
5/4 ROOF LATTICE
FINISH NAILS
10d NAIL
SEAT BRACE L TEMPORARY SUPPORT L
15
Clamp a temporary support 1 in. down from the top of the rafter to guide the roof lattice board. Tap in nails every 7-1/4 in. to space the boards. Nail into the edge of the rafters with 10d casing nails.
16
Predrill and screw the seat braces to the inside face of the posts using 1/4-in. x 3-1/2 in. lag screws.
42

around and examine the corners and edges and sand them smooth with 100-grit sandpaper.You may have to wait a week or more to sand if your treated wood is still moist because it will just gum up your paper. Once the project is dry to the touch, nd an oil stain that suits your taste and brush it on. Have a rag or two handy to catch the drips and runs, and use dropcloths if youre staining over a walkway. One coat should be sufficient, and youll need to recoat your arbor in about three years.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography SHAWN NIELSEN and CRAIG McNITT, STUDIO CENTRAL Project Design DAVID RADTKE
INNER SEAT SLAT
M2
M1
3 RADIUS
OUTER SEAT SLAT
17
Fasten the 2x6 seat slats to the braces with 3-in. deck screws. Leave a 1/2-in. space between the boards and round over the outside edge of the inner slat with a 3-in. radius cut.
SIDE LATTICE
18
44
Rip 5/4x6 decking in half and round over the edge with a block plane and sandpaper. Screw the vertical lattice to the side lintels and the back of the seat. Finish the lattice by screwing the horizontal lattice pieces to the inside face of the vertical pieces with 1-5/8 in. deck screws.
garden hutch
Keep all your gardening tools close at hand in this solid pine cabinet
Pine
by Jeff Gorton
ouldnt it be nice to have all your gardening tools and supplies in one handy location? This pine hutch holds long-handled tools like shovels, rakes and hoes on one side, and smaller tools and supplies on shelves on the other side. We designed this hutch for sturdy, functional storage. The copper roof keeps the interior dry, so you can put it outside. The panels that make up the front, sides, back and doors are tongue-and-groove 1x8s glued together for rigidity. The curved parts for the front frame, doors and trim are simply cut from 1x12 pine boards with a jigsaw. The rest of the cabinet is constructed of standard inexpensive knotty pine boards. In this article, well walk you through the assembly process, including a slick pocket screw technique for joining the door and face frames. The rustic nature of this hutch makes it a good project for an ambitious woodworker, but its not for beginners.Youll need experience working with
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THE FAMILY HANDYMAN APRIL 2004
93
Pine garden hutch

ver sion 2F Figure A 2/11/04
Garden Assembly Fig. A Hutch GARDEN HUTCH

COPPER TOP: SEE TEXT FOR BENDING AND CRIMPING 1-1/2" 1"
1-1/2"
45
K
4"
H X W H DETAILS AT TOP A1 A2 K T2 V S N A2
1/2"
3/4"
A1
F2
V G U
39"
T2 T1
P M N
J Q B1 B2 C2 F2 C2 R J H
11"
L P M J
C1
1" 1/2"
E1 F1 E2
1/4"
C1
3/4" x 2-1/2" NOTCH IN R
B1 B2
TOP VIEW
H L
2-1/2"
C L 1/2"
1/4"
C2
C1
2-1/2"
Q C1 C2
SECTION VIEW
EACH . SQ. = 1"
P N
BOTTOM PATTERNS
94
DETAILS AT BOTTOM
Pine garden hutch

power tools, including a table saw, power miter saw and jigsaw.Youll also need a full set of basic hand tools as well as a pocket hole jig (Photo 4) to assemble the frames, and air nailers to assemble the cabinet. Allow a few full days to build the cabinet and several more hours to apply a durable nish. It takes a surprising amount of pine to build this cabinet.Youll have to round up a pickup truck, a minivan or an SUV to get the lumber home. Be choosy when selecting the boards. Pick straight boards that look nice on both sides.You can get by with some defects on the boards that face the back of the cabinet, though. Buy a few extra boards so youll have a better selection when you start building. We purchased all the lumber at our local home center for about $250. We found the copper sheet (about $45) at a sheet metal shop that specializes in gutters and exterior metal. See the Buyers Guide on p. 102 for information on buying the copper and the door hardware.
1x12 PINE BOARD
DOOR FRAME TOPS 21-5 /8" CENTER LINE
Build a large compass by drilling holes in a 36-in. long stick using Figure B as a guide. Draw arcs for the face frame top (A1) and door frame tops (D) on a 4-ft. 1x12. On a second 4-ft. 1x12, draw arcs for the curved molding (A2) under the front roof (Figure B below).
FACE FRAME TOP
ver sion 2F 2/11/04 3/4 MDF

TABLE
Saw out the curved pieces with a jigsaw. Use Fig. B Arc Patterns the pattern on p. 94 to draw the curve on the face frame bottom (C1) TRIM END 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 48" PINE BOARD and saw it out as well.
3-1/2" 2-3/8"
Start by building the face frame

Build the face2/11/04 frame (Photo 3) rst and ver sion 2F use it as a guide for assembling the doors and cutting the curve on the back panel. A full sheet of 3/4-in. MDF or particleboard set on sawhorses makes a good workbench for this project. Set up for
FACE FRAME TOP (A)
A1 D
SCRAP
SCRAP CUT D IN HALF AND SLIDE SEE PHOTOS 3 AND 6 FOR CUTTING END ANGLES
CURVED MOLDING (A2)
32-5/8"
DOOR FRAME 21-5/8" TOPS (D)
29-1/8" 26-3/4"
C L
Fig. B Arc Patterns
Figure B Arc Patterns
E2 B1
SCREW POINT
3/4" x 11-1/4" x 48" PINE BOARD
TRIM END
3-1/2" 2-3/8"
A1 D
A2
SCRAP CUT D IN HALF AND SLIDE
1-1/2" 32-5/8" 31-1/8" C L 22" 3/4" x 11-1/4" x 48" PINE BOARD
32-5/8" 21-5/8" 29-1/8" 26-3/4" C L SEE PHOTOS 3 AND 6 FOR CUTTING END ANGLES
E2 B1
SCREW POINT
SCREW POINT
95
Pine garden hutch
Cut the side pieces (B1) to length with 22degree angles on the tops. Snug the face frame sides to the bottom (C1) and to a 39-in. long spacer and clamp them to the table. Scribe lines on the curved top (A1) and cut off the ends.
C1 FACE FRAME B1 SPACER
A1
MARK ANGLE 22 DEGREES
Drill pocket holes on the backside of the face frame pieces with a pocket hole jig. Glue the joints and connect them with pocket screws.
STEPPED BIT FOR POCKET SCREWS
POCKET HOLE JIG
POCKET SCREW CLAMP
SQUARE DRIVER
Cut backing cleats (B2 and C2) that overlap the face frame joints (Figure A, parts A1, B1 and C1). Predrill and screw them to the back of the face frame.
CURVED BOTTOM CLEAT
OVERLAP CORNER
OVERLAPPING CLEAT
1-1/4 DECK SCREWS
marking the arcs (for the curved pieces) by drawing a center line parallel to the long edge of the sheet. Center a 4-ft. length of 1x12 on the line. Line up the top edge with the edge of the workbench and clamp it. Screw the point of the homemade compass in the center line 21-5/8 in. below the bottom edge of the 1x12 (Photo 1). Draw three arcs for the face frame top and door top pieces (Figure B, p. 95). Then replace the 1x12 with another 48-in. 1x12 and relocate the screw point (see Figure B). Draw two arcs to outline the 1-1/2 in. wide curved roof trim molding. Cut out the curves (Photo 2). Even with careful jigsaw work, youll have to sand the curves for a smooth arch. Use 80-grit sandpaper on a sanding block to even out the curve and remove saw marks. Then sand again with 100- and 120-grit paper. For the best-looking nish, sand all the boards before assembly. Use a random orbital sander or hand-sand with the grain of the wood. When youre done cutting and sanding the curved pieces, rip the remaining face frame and door trim pieces to width and cut them to length according to Figure A and the Cutting List. Use the pattern on p. 94 to cut the curve on the 39-in. long 1x6 bottom frame piece (C1). Cut the same curve on the 44-in. long x 5-in. wide piece (C2). Use this for the bottom cleat (Photo 5). Assemble the face frames and door frames and back frame with pocket screws. (See Using Tools, Feb. 03, p. 23. To order a copy, see p. 9.) Photos 3 and 6 show how to mark for the angle cuts where the curved pieces join the straight ones. You can use your miter box to cut angles on the ends of the curved pieces, but youll have to steady them by supporting them with one of the scrap concave corners cut from the 1x12. Place the straight edge of the concave scrap against the fence and nestle the curves. Then sight along the blade and adjust the angle to cut along the line. Use this same technique for cutting the angles on the ends of the curved door frame tops (D) as shown in Photo 6. After assembling the face frame, ip it
96
Pine garden hutch

over and screw on the cleats (B2 and C2; Photo 5). The cleats overlap the joints to add strength and serve as a nailing surface for the oorboards and side panels.
6
DOOR FRAME
Take your time building the doors

Use the completed face frame as a guide to check the t of the doors as you build them. The goal is to end up with a 1/8-in. space between the doors and the face frame and between the two doors. Sand or plane them as needed to create an even gap. Build and t the door frames rst. Then use them as a guide to cut out the tongue-and-groove boards that make up the door panels (Photo 7). Rip the groove off the rst board in each door panel and then rip the last board to t. Glue and nail the boards to the frames and then sand the edges ush. A belt sander works great for this task.
POCKET HOLES
MARK ANGLE
Assemble the door frame with pocket screws as shown. Then cut the curved top (D) in half and cut angles on the ends to fit. Attach them with pocket screws as well. Place the assembled door frames in the face frame to check the fit. Plane and sand as needed to allow a 1/8-in. space around and between the door frames.
WATERRESISTANT WOOD GLUE TRACE TOP
Next build the side and back panels

The panels for the sides and back are constructed just like the door panels.Youll have to rip the tongues and grooves from the outermost boards after guring out how wide they should be (Photo 8). We cant give you the exact ripping widths because your boards will probably vary from the ones we used. The easiest approach is to temporarily assemble the tongue-andgroove boards, using clamps if needed to draw them tight together. Then mark the panel widths on them, making sure to center the tape so youll remove an equal amount from the outside boards. Rip the outside boards to width. Then assemble the panels. Run a small bead of water-resistant wood glue along the tongue of each board before sliding it into the groove. Clean up any squeezed-out glue right away with a damp cloth. When the glue hardens, the panels will be rigid and strengthen the cabinet. Use construction adhesive to glue the panels to the frames and/or cleats. Here are a few special considerations for building the panels. First, use a framing square to make sure the panels are perfectly square before the glue dries. Cut the curve
RIP EDGE V-GROOVES FACE BACK
CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE
Temporarily assemble the door panels and center the frames over them. Mark the bottom, sides and top. Rip the sides and cut the top curve. Cut the bottoms 1/4 in. shorter than marked. Then glue and nail the boards together with wood glue and fasten them to the frame with construction adhesive.
BACK PANEL
Assemble the back frame (M and N) with pocket screws. Glue and nail tongue-andgroove boards to it to form the cabinet back. Rip the first and last boards to fit.
BACK FRAME
97
Pine garden hutch

on the back panel after its constructed (Photo 9). The beveled top cleat on the side panels (K) is a little tricky. Study Photos 10 and 13 and Figure A to see its location and orientation.
Center the face frame over the back panel and line up the bottoms. Mark the top curve. Saw it out with a jigsaw.
TRACE CURVE
Assemble the cabinet, then mount the doors

Glue and nail the completed panels and face frame together (Photo 10). Then add the oorboards and center panel (Photo 12). Center the curved molding (A2) and nail it to the top of the face frame. Finally, glue and nail the roof boards along the curve (Photo 13). Start with 1x4s aligned with the ends of the curved molding. Then complete the roof with 1x3s, working from both sides to the center. To make sure youre off to a square start, temporarily tack the 1x4 in place. Then set four of the 1x3s on the roof with their ends perfectly aligned and measure the front overhang to make sure its consistent. If the overhang is getting larger or smaller, move the back end of the 1x4 down or up, respectively, to correct the problem. When the cabinet is complete, tip it on its back to install the doors (Photo 14).You can use any strong, gate-type hinge. Just make sure to leave an even space around the perimeter of the doors and between them. Use a belt sander to trim tight spots.
FACE FRAME
BACK PANEL BACKSIDE UP
10
Assemble the side panels (Figure A). Then glue and nail the side panels to the back panel and the face frame.
FLOOR CLEATS
FACE FRAME
BACK PANEL CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE
BEVELED CLEAT
Crimping tool simplies curve of the metal roof
11
Screw in the crosspiece (Q) with pocket screws to support the floorboards. Notch the first floorboard (R) to fit around the face frame and glue and nail it down. Cut the back floorboard to fit and nail it in.
FLOOR CROSSPIECE
FLOOR CLEAT
BASE
Start with a 24-in. x 60-in. piece of 16-oz. copper sheeting. Screw down a 2x4 frame on your bench top to provide clearance for bending down the edges. Start by snipping the corners of the copper with a tin snips (Photo 15). Then hand-bend the edges of the sheet down over the 2x4s (Photo 15). The last step is to crimp the edges with the crimping tool (see Buyers Guide, p. 102) to curve the sheet (Photo 16). Keep the crimps parallel by aligning one of the crimping blades in the previously made crimp before squeezing it. Crimp about 12 in. on the front. Then crimp 24 in. on the back to even up the curve. Continue alternating until you reach the end.You can adjust the arch for an exact t once the cop-
98
Pine garden hutch
12
Glue and nail together the center divider and attach it to the bottom and back with cleats (T1 and T2) and screws. Attach the top to the ceiling boards after theyre installed (Photo 13).
Cutting List
KEY
SHELF CLEATS CENTER PANEL
PCS.
SIZE & DESCRIPTION
Face frame A1, D 1 48" x 3/4" x 11-1/4" (curved frame and door tops)
3/4"x 3/4" CLEAT
A2 1 48" x 3/4" x 11-1/4" (curved molding; cut curve and ends) B1 B2 C1 2 2 1 68" x 3/4" x 3-1/2" (sides)* 66" x 3/4" x 2-1/2" (side cleats)* 39" x 3/4" x 5-1/2" (bottom; cut curve to pattern) 44" x 3/4" x 5" (bottom cleat; cut curve to pattern) Curved tops (cut from door top above) 68-5/8" x 3/4" x 2-1/4" (door sides)* 61" x 3/4" x 2-1/4" (door sides)* 14-13/16" x 3/4" x 2-1/4" (door bottom rail); see Figure B 14-13/16" x 3/4" x 4" (intermediate rails) 72" t&g 1x8 (door panels); cut to t 68-1/4" t&g 1x8 (19-1/2" x 68-1/4" side panels) 5" x 3/4" x 17-1/4" (bottom cleats) 5-1/2" x 3/4" x 17-1/4" (top cleats; bevel top to 45 degrees)
3/4" x 3/4" CLEAT
C2 Doors D E1 E2
2 2 2 2 4 6
13
Nail the curved molding (A2) to the face frame. Then glue and nail the ceiling boards to the top of the cabinet. Start by overhanging the 1x4s as shown and work from both sides to the center with the 1x3 boards. Cut the last piece to fit.
F1 F2 G Sides
CURVED MOLDING 1x3s 1x4 BEVELED CLEAT
H J K
6 2 2
Back L M N 7 2 3 1 78" t&g 1x8 (44" x 78" back panel; cut top curve) 3-1/2" x 3/4" x 68" (frame sides) 3-1/2" x 3/4" x 37" (frame crosspiece) 5" x 3/4" x 42-1/2" (bottom cleat)
14
Screw temporary cleats to the back of the face frame to support the doors. Set the doors in place and trim them if necessary to allow 1/8-in. clearance all around. Predrill for hinge screws and screw on the door hinges and hardware.
Interior Parts Q R S
TEMPORARY CLEAT
1 2 3 1 2 8 8 3 18
2" x 3/4" x 16-1/2" (oor crosspiece) 9" x 3/4" x 44" (oorboards) 72" t&g 1x8 (17-1/4" x 72" center panel) 3/4" x 3/4" x 72" (center panel cleats) 3/4" x 3/4" x 17-1/4" (center panel cleats) 1-1/2" x 3/4" x 17-1/4" (shelf cleats) 8-5/8" x 3/4" x 21-5/8" (shelf boards) 3-1/2" x 3/4" x 21-1/2" (roof boards) 2-1/2" x 3/4" x 21-1/2" (roof boards)
T1 T2 U
1/8" SPACE GATE HINGE
V W X
* Cut top angles at 22 degrees
100
Pine garden hutch
15
Center the 24-in. wide copper sheet over the cabinet top with a 1-1/2 in. overhang in front. Mark along the back, front and ends with a permanent marker. Add 1-1/2 in. to the ends and cut the copper sheet to length with a tin snips. Snip the corners as shown. Bend the front, back and ends down over the 2x4 frame.
BACK EDGE OF HUTCH 1"
FRONT EDGE
SNIP CORNERS
per is back on top of the cabinet. Hold off, however, on nailing the copper in place (Photo 17) until youve applied a nish to the hutch. Since the hutch is pine and will rot quickly if left unprotected outdoors, we recommend applying a durable nish. We used oil stain and three coats of spar varnish. Be sure to seal the bottom edges thoroughly. If youre going to put the hutch in a wet location, install metal or plastic feet on all four corners to elevate it slightly. Setting the hutch on an uneven surface can cause the doors to bind or t poorly.You may have to shim under the cabinet to level it.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
BEND 1-1/2" DOWN
16
Crimp the front and back edges to form the curved top using a special sheet metal crimping tool. Alternate between the front and back until you reach the end.
Buyers Guide
Malco C4 5 blade downspout crimper is available online from www.amazon.com ($20.99 plus shipping), or call Seven Corners Hardware (651) 224-4859 to order one by mail.
CRIMPING TOOL
The Kreg Rocket R2 pocket hole system is available on-line at www.kregtool.com ($64.99), or call (800) 447-8638 to nd a retailer near you. The hinges (CK-02010642; $6.99) and primitive latch (CK-02006027; $3.89) are available from Van Dykes Restorers, (800) 787-3355, www.vandykes.com. The 16-oz. copper sheet is available from Sheridan Sheet Metal Co., (763) 537-3686. Call for the current price and shipping cost.
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION QTY. 3 9 4 3 4 3 1 15 7 4 1 2 4
17
Drill 1/16in. pilot holes (through the copper only) about every 12 in. along the edges. Drive small copper or brass weatherstrip nails through the copper into the wood slats to hold the copper roofing in place.
1x2 x 8' pine 1x3 x 8' pine 1x4 x 6' pine 1x4 x 8' pine 1x6 x 6' pine 1x10 x 8' pine 1x12 x 8' pine 1x8 x 6' t&g pine 1x8 x 8' t&g pine 8" gate hinges
1/16" PILOT HOLE THROUGH COPPER
Latch Tubes of construction adhesive Magnetic catches Water-resistant wood glue 1-1/4" nish nails Copper or brass weatherstrip nails Pocket screws and jig 2' x 5' 16-oz. copper sheet
102
68
Pat io planters
Build them any size
Give your potted plants a simple, stylish home outdoors or in by David Radtke
his planter is designed to make your patio or deck gardening much easier. Instead of lling it with dirt and planting each ower or plant individually, you simply set prepotted plants right into the planter. You can conveniently switch plants as the season changes or unload the planter and move it to a new location. We designed this project to t any pot with an 11-in. diameter or less and a maximum height of 10-1/2 in. To create the illusion of a fully planted box, you just ll in around the pots with wood chips, bark or other mulch covering. The base or bottom of the planter has 7/8-in. holes drilled every 6 in. to drain away any excess water. The side boards have a 1/4-in. space between them to ventilate the mulch and keep it from getting soggy. More PATIO PLANTERS
Cost $75 Time 6 to 8 hours Skill level Beginner/intermediate Tools I Jigsaw I Circular saw I 12-in. Speed square (as cutting guide) I Drill with pilot/countersink bit I Power screwdriver I Clamps I Hammer I Tape measure
69
Patio planters
FIG. A
LEG TEMPLATE (ENLARGE 400%)
FINISHED LEG (A)
HARDBOARD LEG TEMPLATE
USING a full-size template made from Fig. A, trace the outline of the planter legs onto pressure-treated 2x12 pine boards. Sand the edges with a finish or belt sander followed by 100-grit hand-sanding to gently ease the edges.
E A C C F D
Cutting List for Large Planter

KEY QTY.
A 4 1 4 4 2 2
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

1-1/2" x 11-1/4" x 13" treated pine legs 1-1/2" x 11-1/4" x 48" treated pine base 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 48" cedar side panels 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 14-1/4" cedar end panels* 1-1/16" x 4-1/2" x 57" cedar side aprons 1-1/16" x 4-1/2" x 20-1/4" cedar side aprons*
12" SPEED SQUARE
B C D E
SUPPORT BLOCK D
*Cut to t
MAKE straight cuts using a 12-in. Speed square held firmly against the back of the 2x6.
Cutting List for Small Planter

KEY QTY.
A B C D E F 4 1 4 4 2 2
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

1-1/2" x 11-1/4" x 13" treated pine legs 1-1/2" x 11-1/4" x 36" treated pine base 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 36" cedar side panels 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 14-1/4" cedar end panels* 1-1/16" x 4-1/2" x 45" cedar side aprons 1-1/16" x 4-1/2" x 20-1/4" cedar side aprons*
More PATIO PLANTERS

70
Patio planters
EXTERIORWOOD GLUE PLANE TO 3/8" BEVEL C B 2x12 BASE CHAMFERED EDGES C D CHAMFERED EDGE
3/8"
3" DECK SCREWS BOARD CLAMPED TO WORKBENCH STOP BOARD PILOT AND COUNTERSINK BIT
PLANE only the edges where the side boards C and D meet. This chamfered edge should be about 3/8 in. wide when completed. Clamp a board to the edge of your workbench to stop the workpiece from drifting while you stroke the edge of the board with the plane.
CUT your 2x12 base to length, then screw the lower sides (C) to the base. Align the base and sides so theyre flush on the bottom sides. Predrill for each screw using a pilot/countersink combination bit. Then screw the ends to the sides.
CLAMP C 2-1/2" DECK SCREWS A
Weve shown you two planters of different lengths, but you can adapt them to t your unique space. You can even change the width by nailing a treated 2x2 to the side of the 2x12 base piece to accommodate a slightly wider pot. To build either the small or large planter shown, follow our clear step-bystep photos and refer to the Cutting List for lumber lengths.
Buying the right lumber
LEAVE 3/16" TO EDGE
SHIMS
SHIM the base up 1-3/4 in. on each side using scrap pieces of wood, then clamp the legs one at a time to the sides (C). Screw the sides to the legs with 2-1/2 in. deck screws. Use three screws per leg.
Youll notice the legs are treated pine and not cedar like the sides and top apron. Treated pine is less likely to split along the grain (a nasty problem with cedar). Pick treated 2x12 material for the legs with as few large knots as possible. Youll be able to cut around knots on a single board, so bring a tape measure when you select the lumber. Choose straight cedar for the sides and remember that some knots here can add to the overall beauty. More PATIO PLANTERS
72
Patio planters
B C C
DRILL 7/8" DRAIN HOLES EVERY 6"
A D
CLAMP the upper sides flush to the tops of the legs. Be sure to align the upper and lower side ends before drilling and screwing this piece in place. Again, use three 2-1/2 in. deck screws per leg. Next, screw the upper end panels (D) to the upper sides. Make sure the chamfers face each other on each side.
5/4 x 6 CEDAR DECK BOARD
RIP the 5/4 x 6 deck boards to 4-1/2 in. to make the top apron frame. Use a rip guide on your circular saw or a table saw if you have one. Plane and sand the cut edge to match the factory-machined edge of the deck board.
Feel free to use other species of wood such as redwood, cypress or even a plantation-grown tropical wood like ipe (available at some lumberyards).
Use paint, stain or a combination of both
6d GALVANIZED CASING NAILS
We chose an exterior enamel paint for the legs and apron pieces to accent the deck oil stain/sealer on the base and sides. Stain is a better choice than paint for the base and sides because theyll be exposed to more moisture than the legs and top. The photo below shows the excellent results you can get by staining the entire project with an exterior oil deck stain.
Art Direction HOPE FAY Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Project Design DAVID RADTKE
F E
GLUE AND NAIL the side apron pieces (E) flush with parts C below. Next, nail the apron end pieces to the end panels (D). Youll notice the inside edge of F will be about 1/4 in. out from the inside of the planter to adequately cover the tops of the legs.
74
by David Radtke
Rock-solid posts and overhead shading make this hammock the perfect retreat on warm summer days
Hammock
N
ow heres a home improvement project youll want to dive right into. After only a couple of days of building, youll be swaying in the gentle summer breeze as it caresses you from all sides. Sure, you can hang a hammock from trees (if youre lucky enough to have them in the right spots), but one of the great features of this project is that it lets you choose the ideal location and bring your shade with you. Another plus is an optional awning cover thatll let you nap even during a gentle summer rain. This project is built around two solid 6x6 treated posts that you set in concrete. The rest of the project is made from ordinary cedar dimensional lumber.You can get all the screws and other hardware at your local hardware store or home center. The project will cost you about $600 plus the cost of your hammock (see Buyers Guide, p. 72) and optional synthetic tarp.You can have a local awning supplier make one for you for about $475. Figure on spending about two to three days building plus a half day applying a clear deck sealer to the project. Its to your advantage to have some carpentry experience, but even a novice can complete this project with simple carpentry tools and our clear step-by-step photos and dimensioned drawing.
Create a relaxing
Dig big holes for a solid structure

Choose a site that slopes no more than a few inches.You can adjust the post depth on one side a bit to keep the structure fairly level. With all the swinging back and forth, this hammock shelter requires a lot of concrete to anchor it to the earth. In fact, we used about eight bags of dry-mix concrete (60 lbs. each) for each of the footings. If youre transporting the bags from a home center
62
or hardware store in a passenger car, make two trips carrying no more than eight bags each time. If you have a delivery option, by all means, take advantage of it. Digging the holes, Ill confess, is not the enjoyable part of this project. Each hole can take as little as a half hour or as much as two hours if youve got tough, rocky, clay-ridden soil. Besides a posthole digger and a shovel, have a heavy solid-steel bar on hand to free buried rocks, and a shrub loppers to clip stubborn roots. As you dig your holes, have a plastic tarp handy to slide the dirt away from the worksite for easy disposal. CAUTION: Whenever you dig, make sure there are no buried cables or pipe in your yard. If youre not sure, dont guess. Call your utilities to get them marked for you. It can save you a big headache and possible injury.
JUNE 20 03 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Hideaway
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 20 03
63
FOR DETAIL, SEE P. 70
SLATS G SPACED EVENLY (APPROX. 2-1/8")
Figure A Hammock Assembly
F G E F
1/4" GAP BETWEEN A AND F
E
RAFTERS F SPACED EVENLY (APPROX. 34-3/4" O.C.)
A D
45
C
FOR DETAIL, SEE P. 66 5-1/2" 45
4" 90" 12-7/8" 1-1/2" NOTCH
F C E B
77-1/4" 20"
D D A D
1/2" x 4" SCREW EYE AND FENDER WASHER (1 PER POST)
46"
SCREW EYE (ON INSIDE)
24" 12" x 24" CONCRETE FOOTING 30" 16" LENGTH OF NO. 4 REBAR
B
4" 10" 161" 10"
12-7/8"
A C
3"
5-1/2"
C D
1-1/4"
1-1/4"
End Elevation View

64
Side View at Top
Hammock Hideaway
TREATED 6 x6
1/2" HOLE
CUT OUT BETWEEN LINES
1-1/4" x 5-1/2" NOTCHES FOR CRADLE
NOTCHES FOR 2x6 CROSSTIES
Notch and drill your posts before you set them in concrete as shown in Fig. A. Make the top notch for the ridge board by drilling a 1-1/2 in. hole through the post and then hand-sawing from the top to the edges of the hole. Also drill the 1/2-in. diameter hole 12 in. from the bottom for the No. 4 rebar.
For the side notches, make multiple passes with your circular saw set at 1-1/4 in. deep and then clean out the debris left behind with a wood chisel. Flatten the bottom of the notch with a coarse file.
Notch your posts before you stick em in the ground

Follow the measurements on the drawing and cut the 1-1/4 in. deep notches for the crossties as shown in Photos 1 and 2. To cut the cradle for the ridge, measure down 3-1/4 in. from the top of the post and place a mark in the middle. Make an identical mark on the opposite side of the post and drill halfway through the post from each side. Then mark (see Photo 1) and cut from the top down to the hole edges to form your notched cradle for the ridge board (B). NOTE: Check your individual hammock specs to make sure you get enough spread between your posts. We spaced ours 166-1/2 in. from center to center, which left 161 in. between. This distance worked for a wide variety of hammocks.
SHOVEL
POST HOLE DIGGER
2x4 DEPTH STOP PLASTIC TARP
Cutting List
KEY
A B C D E F G
PCS.
2 1 4 8 2 12 15
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

5-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 120" treated pine posts 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 192" cedar ridge 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 77-1/4" cedar crossties 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" x 46-3/4" cedar brackets 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 192" cedar fascia boards 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 42" cedar arched rafters 1" x 2-11/16" x 192" cedar slats (cut from 5/4 cedar decking)
12" x 24" x 31" DEEP HOLE
NO. 4 16" REBAR
3
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Dig a 12 x 24-in. hole at least 31 in. deep. Screw a cleat 30 in. from the bottom of the post to hold it to the correct depth. Drill a pilot hole, then drive a 16-in. long piece of rebar (expose equal amounts on each side) through the post as shown to help bond it to the concrete.
JUNE 20 03
65
Hammock Hideaway
10" OVERHANG 2x8x16' RIDGE
STRING LINE
BRACE STAKE
CONCRETE
Plumb the posts with a level. A skewed post will make it impossible to align your structure. Drive stakes into the ground and screw temporary supports to hold the posts as the concrete sets. Mix your concrete. Berm it slightly to drain water away from the post.
Set one end of the ridge into a notch and then walk the other end up the ladder and drop it into the opposite notch. You may need to tap the ridge to get it completely seated. Fasten it to the posts with 3-1/2 in. lag screws set off center and one on each side.
46-3/4" OVERALL 6-3/4"
6-1/4" 45 45 4" (TYPICAL)
5"
12"
24"
36"
1-3/4"
48"
Figure B
Bracket D
(cut 4 from doubled 2x10s)
DOUBLED 2x10 BRACKET
Cut your curved brackets from 2x10 cedar following the pattern in Figure B. Clamp the brackets to a work surface to keep them from rocking as you sand. Sand both edges and keep the belt sander moving to smooth the curves.
Dig your holes for the posts and dont skimp on the size. Smaller holes with less concrete may cause the posts to loosen over time. If you have a slight slope from post to post, adjust the cleat up on the lower-elevation post so your structure will be close to level (an inch one way or the other wont matter). Nail a pair of 1x3 x 8-ft. temporary supports about 20 in. down from the top of the posts as shown in Photo 4 to help you plumb and position the posts. Screw the supports to stakes driven into the ground. Once the posts are straight up and down, run a string line (Photo 4) across the bottom and tweak the posts so their faces are perfectly aligned. With your posts aligned and level with each other, mix your concrete, two bags at a time, to a firm consistency (something like cottage cheese). Scoop the concrete into the hole and use a stick to pack it in around the post. Keep mixing bags until you get up to the surrounding soil. Check your alignment again and then berm the concrete slightly so rainwater will run off. Complete both holes, recheck alignment and wait two days before adding to the structure.
66
Hammock Hideaway
HAND-SCREW CLAMPS
A C
2x6 CROSSTIE
TWO 2-1/2" LAG SCREWS FROM EACH SIDE
DOUBLE 2x10 BRACKET
3-1/2" LAG SCREW
Center the crossties on the post notches and then lag-screw each one to the post with 5/16-in. x 2-1/2 in. lag screws.
Clamp your brackets in place and center them onto the post. Drill a 1/4-in. deep recess with a 1-in. spade bit, then drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole for your 5/16-in. x 4-in. galvanized lag screws.
Cut the curved parts while you wait for the concrete to set
The curved parts (D and F) of this structure give it a soothing elegance. Theyre not difficult to cut but take time to lay out.You can make a full-size template by drawing a 2 x 2-in. grid on a piece of Masonite or thin plywood, plotting the points as shown in Figures B and C, drawing the curves and cutting out the shapes with a jigsaw. Then use this thin piece as your pattern to mark the actual pieces onto wider dimensional lumber. You can also lay out the curves with a trammel (large homemade compass) by simply drawing the inner and outer radii of each piece on your lumber. The brackets (D) have a 44-in. inner radius and a 48-in. outer radius. The rafters (F) have a 51-1/4 in. inner radius and a 55-1/4 in. outer radius. NOTE: Use a large deep-throated jigsaw blade to help make a smooth, even curve. A regular jigsaw blade is thinner and shorter and could wander in thick material. Glue and clamp pairs of bracket pieces to make up the thick supports for the crossties. Use a water-resistant carpenters glue. Once the glue dries, sand the edges with a belt sander (Photo 6) to even the curves of the brackets and the rafters. Start with an aggressive 60-grit belt and move to a 100-grit for the final sand.
2 x 6 x 16' FASCIA
Center the 2x6 fascia on each side and align the lower edge with the point on the crossties. Drive 3-in. deck screws through the fascia boards into the crossties.
The ridge board is the spine that holds it all together

Cut your ridge board to length and then place a mark 10 in. in from each side. If your ridge has a slight crown from end
68
2x8 CURVED RAFTER
CLAMP
TEMPORARY BRACES
10
Brace the fascia temporarily to take out any bow. Clamp one end of the rafter to the fascia and screw the rafter to the ridge. Screw through the ridge into the rafter using a pair of 3-1/2 in. deck screws at each end. Start with the center rafter and then lay them out evenly (34-3/4 in. on center) toward each end.
42" OVERALL 5-1/2" FLAT 4" (TYPICAL) 23 23 12" 24" 36" 5-1/2"
Figure C Rafter F (cut 12 from 2x8s)
ROUTER WITH 1/4" ROUND-OVER BIT
5/4 DECKING
EDGE GUIDE
11
Rip the 5/4x6 cedar decking in half to 2-11/16 in. width using an edge guide mounted on your circular saw. Round over the cut edges to match the factory edges with a bearing-guided 1/4-in. roundover bit.
70
Hammock Hideaway
to end, make sure the high spot is on the top. Set your ridge into the post notches, align your marks, tap it into place (Photo 5) and fasten it to the posts. The next part of the skeleton is the crossties (C). Cut them to length and cut the angled ends. To take the hassle out of centering each pair of crossties onto the posts, just mark the center of each crosstie and the center of the post on both sides. Then simply line up the marks and fasten them to the posts. Now you can install your brackets (D) to support the crossties. Clamp the assembly tightly as shown in Photo 8. Fasten the brackets to the crossties from each side. Be sure to align the crossties as you install lag screws on each side of the crosstie into the bracket. Next, fasten the lower end of the bracket to the post. The long 2x6 fascia boards (E) support the bottoms of the curved rafters (Photo 9). Fasten the fascia boards to the crossties with 3-in. deck screws, leaving 9-3/4 in. projecting past the outer crossties. Next, lay out the rafters as shown in Fig. A and screw them to the ridge (starting from the center) and the fascia boards (see Photo 10). NOTE: The end rafters appear tight to the posts, but theyre actually spaced 1/4 in. away.
TOP SLAT
NAIL SPACERS
12
Install the top center slat first. Space the slats evenly as shown in Figure A. Drive finish nails every 4-15/16 in. (from the top down) to help hold the slats in relative position as you fasten the far end. Screw in the slats, then pull the nails. Next, straighten the slats as you screw them to the middle group of rafters.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 20 03
71
Hammock Hideaway
2-11/16" x 1" x 16' CEDAR SLATS
PIPE LEVER
1/2" x 4" SCREW EYE ATTACHMENT CHAIN
FENDER WASHER
14 13
Check the spacing at each junction to avoid wavy slats. Screw the roof slats with two 2-in. deck screws into each rafter.
Drill a 3/8-in. pilot hole and then drive a screw eye into the post. Use a lever to help turn the screw eye. We added a 10-in. piece of chain but only needed two links to connect the hammock. You can let the extra chain dangle or cut it off if youd like.
A deck sealer protects your framework

Once youve finished the building phase of the project, choose a sealer suitable for decks or siding.Youll need close to a gallon. If youd like to darken the color a bit, choose a semitransparent stain/sealer exterior finish, or if you like the fresh-cut look, simply get clear. Lay a tarp on the ground below and apply the finish with a 4-in. roller immediately followed by a 2-in. brush. Begin with the upper slats and work your way to the posts. Let the finish dry for a day before using the shelter.
Shopping List
ITEM QTY.
6x6 x 10' pressure-treated pine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2x8 x 16' cedar (ridge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2x6 x 14' cedar (crossties) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2x10 x 8' cedar (brackets) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2x6 x 16' cedar (fascia boards) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2x8 x 8' cedar (rafters) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 5/4x6 x 16' cedar (roof slats, cut in half) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 lb. 3-1/2" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 lb.
Buyers Guide
You can choose from a wide variety of hammock styles by contacting these companies. Visit these sites on-line for great photos and specs or give them a call:
2" deck screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 lbs. 5/16" x 2-1/2" galv. lag screws (crosstie to post and bracket) . . . . . . . . 24 5/16" x 4" galv. lag screws (bracket to post) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5/16" x 3-1/2" galv. lag screws (post to ridge). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1/2" x 4" screw eyes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 5/16" galv. washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 1/2" fender washers (around screw eyes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 60-lb. bags of dry mix concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Exterior deck finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 gal. Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20" Chain Quick Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
COASTAL HAMMOCKS: (877) 966-0616.

www.coastalhammock.com (dealer locator only; no direct sales)
HAMMOCKS.COM: (866) 577-3529.

www.hammocks.com/hammocks
HATTERAS HAMMOCKS: (800) 643-3522.

www.hatham.com (dealer locator only; no direct sales)
72
TURN-AND-LOCK FASTENER
LAZY PARTNER
Attach the cover with special turn-and-lock fasteners provided by your awning company. You may have trouble getting help with this phase of the project once your partner has discovered the comfort of the hammock below!
Choosing a tarp for the top

We went to an awning company and had our tarp made to fit using a synthetic material that resists the harsh ultraviolet sunlight. The finished tarp ended up costing us about $475, including the stays screwed in along the fascia. If youd like to save money by doing a little extra work, you can buy a tarp, trim two sides to fit, hem the edges and use a grommet tool to add grommets. You can then use a continuous length of rope for each side to loop through the grommets and wrap around the fascia boards.
NOTE: If you choose not

to use a tarp, youll still get ample shade from the roof slats above.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
JUNE 20 03
73
36
arbor
G A R D E N
Create your own private garden getaway for less than $350 by David Radtke
f youre looking for a weekend project to beautify your yard or garden and you want it to be solid, straightforward and built to last, this project is for you. This graceful arbor triples as a shade trellis to grow flowering vines overhead and a garden retreat to melt away the hubbub of our too-busy lives. This project may appear complex at rst glance, but its designed with foolproof methods for building the graceful arches, measuring and cutting the decorative lintel ends and getProject Facts ting the posts preCost cisely positioned. The $340 whole project is made Time from ordinary cedar 3 days dimensional lumber Skill level and four 2x4 posts of Intermediate pressure-treated Special tools pine. The trellis and Doweling jig, pipe roof lattice parts are clamps, jigsaw, cut from cedar deckbelt sander ing and provide sturdy yet graceful support for climbing vines. You can either build the arbor over an existing path or walkway, or complete the project by laying a footpath using your favorite stone. More GARDEN ARBOR
37
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 2002
ARBOR DETAILS
FIG. A
R
5/4 x 2-5/8" x 10' CEDAR LATTICE (CUT FROM CEDAR DECKING)
1/2" x 2" WOOD DOWELS
D
2x6 CEDAR
E
2x6 CEDAR 14"
CEDAR ARCH
Q
2x6 CEDAR STRINGER
G
2x6 CEDAR LINTEL
M M
N
CEDAR TRELLIS 84" POST WRAP LENGTH
A
2x4 PRESSURETREATED POST
3/8" x 4" LAG SCREWS W/ WASHERS
K H
CEDAR SEAT SUPPORT
J
CONCRETE 18" INTO GROUND
B
2x4 CEDAR POST WRAP
C
2x6 CEDAR POST WRAP 66-1/2" CENTER TO CENTER
57-1/2" CENTER TO CENTER
38
arbor
G A R D E N
Shopping List
ITEM
2x4 x 10' treated pine (parts A) 2x4 x 8' cedar (parts B) 2x6 x 8' cedar (parts C, H) 2x6 x 8' cedar (parts D, E, F, G) 2x6 x 12' cedar (parts Q, J, K) 5/4 x 6 x 10' cedar decking (L, M, N, P, R) 2x4 x 12' pine (horizontal braces) 2x2 x 8' pine (diagonal braces) 60-lb. bags of concrete mix 5-lb. box of 3" deck screws 5-lb. box of 2" deck screws 3/8" x 4" galvanized lag screws and washers 1/2" x 2" wooden dowel pins Waterproof carpenters glue (Titebond or Elmers) Construction adhesive
QTY.
4 8 8 8 3 9 4 5 5 1 1 12 16 1 pint 1 tube
UPPER HORIZONTAL BRACES (aa and bb)
PRESSURETREATED 2x4 (A)
DIAGONAL BRACES (cc)
Cutting List
KEY
A B C D E F G H J K L M N P
QTY.
4 8 8 2 2 2 4 4 2 2 2 4 2 4
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 102" pressure-treated pine posts 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 84" cedar post wraps 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 84" cedar post wraps 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 41" cedar top arch members 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 54" cedar middle arch members 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 87" cedar bottom arch members 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 96" cedar lintels 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 11-1/2" cedar seat supports 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 61" cedar back seat planks** 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 66" cedar front seat planks 1-1/16" x 2-5/8" x 10" cedar middle seat supports 1-1/16" x 2-5/8" x 85" cedar outer trellis slats 1-1/16" x 2-5/8" x 74-1/2" cedar middle trellis slats 1-1/16" x 2-5/8" x 18" cedar horizontal trellis supports 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 69" cedar stringers 1-1/16" x 2-5/8" x 120" cedar roof slats 2x4 x 61" open-side horizontal braces* 2x4 x 68" bench-side horizontal braces* 2x2 x 96" diagonal braces
BENCH SIDE LOWER HORIZONTAL BRACES (aa and bb) BOTTOM BRACE (cc)
OPEN SIDE
BUILD the post framework first, then before you pour concrete into the 18-in. deep postholes, shim and level the assembly. Note: The red lumber pieces are temporary supports to hold the posts in position while you plumb and level and pour the concrete (see text below).
The framework
Q R aa bb cc
2 11 4 4 5
*Cut these braces to exact length **Cut to t
When youre building any outdoor structure, setting and plumbing the posts can be a real pain. To make this task hassle free, Ive designed a basic framework that resembles a cube (Photo 1) to hold the posts precisely in position while you mark the posthole locations. Then, once the holes are dug, this same framework allows you to easily plumb the posts as you pour the concrete. Heres how it actually works: First, cut your posts to length. Next, check the width of your 2x4 posts. Pressure-treated wood is sometimes a bit wider than, say, 2x4 cedar. To prevent ugly gaps later, be sure the width of your posts is 3-1/2 in. (or just under to be safe). Next, cut your braces (aa and bb) to length and screw the upper openside horizontal braces (aa) ush
with the top of the posts. Then measure up 18 in. from the bottom of each post and screw the lower horizontal braces to each pair of posts. Next, stand the end panels upright as shown in Photo 1 and screw the other pairs of horizontal braces to the posts. Next, add the diagonal brace. The diagonal braces will square up the cube. Make sure the diagonal measurements of each opposite cube side are equal before you screw them to the framework. Once your framework is complete, move it around the garden to dene your exact location. Once youve chosen the position, mark the posthole locations and dig postholes 18 in. deep and 8 in. wide. With the holes completed, set the framework legs into the holes (Photo 1). Level More GARDEN ARBOR
39
arbor
G A R D E N
each lower horizontal brace by shimming it where necessary (dont drive yourself crazy trying to get it exact; close is good enough). Then, mix up concrete (about a bag per hole) in a tub or wheelbarrow and ll each hole. Make the top of the concrete fairly at to the ground level because youll be adding 2x4s and 2x6s to the posts later.
16-1/2"
The arches are the dening element of the arbor (like tailfeathers on a peacock)
The secret to making the arches is to rst make a template like the one shown in Photo 2. Draw the template with the beam compass and cut the shape with a jigsaw. Lay the 37-1/2" 2x6 cedar pieces E, F and G onto a set of sawhorses. Draw RADIUS 32" a line down the center of each piece and lay them edge to RADIUS 5-1/2" edge. Set the template onto the 2x6 pieces and trace the shape with a template. When you remove the template, 1/4" youll easily see where to position the dowels so they fall PLYWOOD within the arch. Drill the 1/2-in. holes with a drill and doweling jig to 1 in. deep (use 2-in. long precut dowel SCRIBE an arc onto a piece of 1/4-in. plywood 96 in. long to form the template for the arched pins available at a home center or hardware store). ends of the arbor. Center, then fasten a board to Once youve drilled the dowel holes, spread glue onto the backside of the plywood. Then make a beam comthe 2x6s only in the areas that are within the arch. Roll the pass with a straight piece of wood. Nail one end of the dowel pins in glue and insert them into the holes, and compass strip (21 in. from plywood) on the board and drill two 1/4-in. holes for your arcs: one at 32 in. from the clamp each assembly (Photo 3). Set them aside to dry nail and the other at 37-1/2 in. Draw the arcs onto the overnight and then cut each arch along the marks with a plywood and cut the shape with a jigsaw. jigsaw. Smooth the curves with a belt sander. To complete the arch assemblies, mark and cut (Photo 4) the curved ends and smooth them with sandpaper. GLUED-UP Note: Its important to apply an ARCH ASSEMBLY oil-based deck nish within a day D after assembly or at least nish the cut ends to keep them from E checking in the hot sun. DRILL WITH
90 DEGREES
NAIL HERE FOR PIVOT
1/2" BRAD POINT BIT
Building the lower section of the arbor
Cut the 2x4 and 2x6 cedar wrap pieces (B and C) to length and then screw
F
More GARDEN ARBOR

E D DOWELING JIG
FULL-SIZE 1/4" PLYWOOD TEMPLATE
LAY parts D, E and F onto the sawhorses and push them together tightly. Lay the template over the pieces and trace the arch shape onto the pieces. Next, mark the dowel hole locations so they fall within the arch. Drill 1/2-in. dowel holes using a self-centering doweling jig. Coat the dowels and surfaces with outdoor carpenters glue and clamp them overnight.
42
arbor
G A R D E N
CEDAR 2x6 WRAP
CEDAR 2x4 WRAP
5-GALLON PLASTIC BUCKET 9-1/2" 1-3/4"
C B B B
CUT the remaining pieces using the Cutting List on p. 39. Trace a curve on the ends of the arch assemblies, the lintels and the seat supports. We used a 9-1/2 in. section of the base of a 5-gallon pail with a radius of 5 in. Cut them out with a jigsaw and smooth the edges with a belt sander.
WRAP all sides of the pressure-treated 2x4s with cedar. Screw 2x4 cedar on the open sides of the posts and 2x6 on the bench sides of the posts using 3-in. deck screws. Be sure the tops of all the pieces are flush.
LINTEL (G)
CENTER the lintels along the posts and screw them flush (four screws per post) with the top of the posts with 3-in. deck screws.
them to the posts as shown in Photo 5. The 2x6s will overlap the 2x4s a half inch on each side. Next, cut the lintels to length and the decorative shapes at the ends using the same technique as you did for the arch ends. Screw the lintels ush with the tops of the posts. Dont mount the seat supports ush with the posts. Instead, measure back 1 in. from the outer edge of the wrapped posts to allow room for mounting the trellis later. Clamp the top of the seat braces 16 in. up from the bottom of the posts and then predrill and attach them to the posts with lag screws. Note that the seats have a center support (L) connecting the 2x6 planks beneath for stability. Make this piece as well as the trellis and roof lattice by ripping 5/4 x 6 decking in half and then cutting the pieces to length. Screw piece L ush to the back of the seat planks. Next, preassemble the trellis (parts M, N and P). Glue and screw (use construction adhesive here and 2-in. deck screws) the top horizontal tie 16 in. from the top of parts M and N. Screw the lower tie 22 in. from the bottom of parts M. Make sure the lattice assemblies are square. Set them aside for a couple of hours while the glue sets and then screw them to the seat and stringer above. Screw the center slat of the trellis over the center seat support (L) and then attach the outer slats to the back of the seat and at the top into the outer lintels. More GARDEN ARBOR
44
arbor
G A R D E N
STRINGERS (Q)
UPPER ARBOR ARCH ASSEMBLY
2x4 WRAP
POSITION BRACE IN 1" FROM OUTSIDE EDGE
2x6 WRAP
3/8" x 4" LAG SCREW WITH WASHERS SEAT BRACE (H)
FASTEN the seat supports securely to the posts. Predrill the holes with a 5/16-in. drill bit. Then cut and screw the seat planks to the tops of the supports with 3-in. deck screws. Assemble the trellis and screw it in place.
FASTEN the stringers (Q) to the front and rear arches to form the arbor roof assembly. Clamp the top of the posts to temporary spacers to keep them parallel while you lift the roof assembly onto the lintels. Toe-screw the roof assembly to the posts and the lintels with 3-in. deck screws (three screws at each location).
Fasten the roof assembly to the posts and lintels
P K J N M
Fasten the arches together with parts Q. Lift this assembly over the lintels (Photo 8), center it side to side and end to end, then toe-screw it in place. Note: Be sure to clamp braces to the posts before screwing the roof assembly in place. The clamps will help hold the posts parallel during the process. Now youre ready to fasten the roof slats (Photo 9) cut from 5/4 x 6 decking that youve ripped in half. Note: Buy extra pieces of 5/4 decking for the roof lattice. Youll nd that even though you picked straight lumber from the pile at the lumberyard or home center, some pieces will spring out of shape when you rip them with your saw.
Apply a quality exterior nish
RIP 5/4 x 6 cedar decking in half to make the roof lattice. Round the cut edges of each piece with a hand plane. Start in the middle and work each way, spacing the slats 2-5/8 in. apart. Screw them to the arches with 2-1/2 in. screws.
TFH plus
Tour bent willow, Victorian, arched and other previously published arbors at www.familyhandyman.com.
We chose an oil stain/sealer that mimicked weathered wood, so even as the nish degrades over time, the appearance will be the same. Before you stain, spread a dropcloth below, especially if you have a patio or stone path under the arbor!
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration BRUCE KIEFFER Project Design DAVID RADTKE
46
32
JULY / AUGUST 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Solid construction hidden steel fasteners Decorative trimpatterns provided Complex roof made simple with step-by-step photos
esides gracing the back yard with its splendor and calming presence, a gazebo is the perfect place to entertain. One look at this beauty and youll be picturing it lled with family and friends, celebrating a graduation or even a backyard wedding. We designed this 12-ft. dia. gazebo with plenty of eyepleasing trim, from the pattern-cut rails that surround the seating area to the ball-shaped nial atop the cupola. Yet its easy to build if you follow our special hints, tips, technical illustrations and Cutting List. Youre no doubt wondering what this gem costs to build. Well, you could pay $15,000 and let a contractor have all the fun, or you could build it yourself for about $3,800. You can pocket the savingsor throw one really great party.
This gazebo is builder-friendly

This project is not as difcult as it looks. Think of it as a series of several shorter projects with an end goal in sight for each. You can make all the decorative parts in your garage or shop (especially on rainy days). If you have several friends help you with the slab and framing (promise them anything), you can spread these two tasks over several weeks. A project like this would take two experienced carpenters nine working days from start to nish. An intermediate do-ityourselfer who has built a deck should plan this as a whole summer project. NOTE: You must have a site that slopes less than 4 in. over 12 ft. (any more than this will require some excavating).
by David Radtke
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2000
33
Fig. A Overview
TRIM TO OCTAGON SHAPE
G A Z E B O
3-1/2" DIA. WOOD BALL
S2 S1 N N
1-1/2" 2" SCREW (TYPICAL) 1-1/2" 4" 5-1/2" 13-1/2"
67-1/2 DEGREE BEVEL
CUT FROM 1" THICK DECKING CUT FROM 2x6s
L M
T1
1-1/2"
7-1/2" 5-1/2"
Q R2 G3
2-1/4"
S2 S1
M K1 P P N
H2 Q
12"
L
14-1/4"
G3
CUPOLA SECTION
T2 T1
R1
K1 E
12" METAL STRAP
B F H1
T1
12" METAL STRAP
K2 B
G2 F
R1
3/4" QUARTER ROUND TRIM; MITER ENDS (TYPICAL)
J B, E, F, H1, H2 D1
67-1/2 CUT SAW KERF IN POST TO FIT METAL STRAP (SEE FIG. B)
C1 A H1 F G1
H1 C2 F D2
2" x 18" x 18" INLAID STONES
3/8" x 3" BOLT
A A
A D1, D2 C1, C2
CONCRETE SLAB METAL STANDOFF
34
G A Z E B O
57-1/2"
Cutting List
QTY. SIZE AND DESCRIPTION 8 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 102 posts 70" TO 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 56-1/2 8 POST CENTER top plates 16 7/8 x 3-1/2 x 31 cedar wrap* 16 7/8 x 3-1/2 x 36 cedar wrap* 45 DEGREES 16 7/8 x 5-1/4 x 31 cedar wrap* 74-3/4" TO 16 7/8 x 5-1/4 x 36 cedar SLAB POINT wrap* 8 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50-3/4 cedar headers 22-1/2 DEGREES 30 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50 cedar rails 56 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 27 balusters 96 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 8 spandrel pickets 16 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 13 cupola pickets (wilson pickets) 280 ft. 3/4 x 3/4 retainer strips (cut to t) 16 ft. 3/4 x 3/4 retainer strips (cut to t) 16 1-1/8 x 9-1/4 x 22-1/2 corner braces 8 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 102 lower rafters 8 1-1/2 x 7-1/4 x 24 rafter tail buildups 8 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 34 inner vertical rafter ties 8 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 32 cupola rafters 1 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50 octagonal rafter hub 8 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 32 outer vertical rafter ties 16 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 10 horizontal rafter ties 8 7/8 x 8-1/2 x 6 lower fascia (cut to length) 8 7/8 x 5-1/2 x 2 upper fascia (cut to length) See Fig. A 1 2 See Fig. A 300 ft. 1 x 2-3/4 lower roof sheathing (5/4 decking cut in two) 320 ft. 1 x 5-1/2 upper roof sheathing (5/4 decking)
POST CENTER
C L
KEY A EEL ANCHOR B SECTION VIEW) C1

C L C2
12" STEEL ANCHOR 3/8" DIA. HOLE CONCRETE SLAB
4-3/4"
4"
-1/2"
3-1/2"
D1 D2 E F G1 G2 G3 H1 H2 J K1 K2 L M N
3/8" x 2" CROSS BOLT GRAVEL 2"
Fig. B
7"
Concrete Slab and Paver Detail
C L
57-1/2"
45 DEGREES
12" STEEL ANCHOR (SEE SECTION VIEW) 72-1/2" C L
70" TO POST CENTER
45 DEGREES 74-3/4" TO SLAB POINT INSET STONES 2" x 18" x 18"
3-
22-1/2 DEGREES C L
P ebo / Slab Q
The slab
You dont have to get the slab dimenit in 18 in. Remove the sod with a sions perfect, but the closer they rented sod cutter. Youll need to come to it, the easier things will be excavate a 9-in. deep area radiating later. If you hate doing concrete out about 78 in. from the conduit. work, skip this section, photocopy it After that youll set forms and put in and give it to your concrete mason. A a layer of 1/4-in. gravel to the dimensions shown in Fig. B. The idea is to crew can do the work for about $1,200 while youre out shopping for have the outside foot or more of the lumber or cutting parts (but you can slab thicker to support the weight of cut the cost to a couple of hundred if the structure. you do it!). Theres also an article in Build your forms after carefully our May 00 issue on pouring conexamining Fig. B. Set your circular Story Number in a lot of gaps in this crete thatll ll saw at 22-1/2 degrees and cut eight Story NameGazebo / Slab subject area. (To order a copy, see 2x8 exterior forms with the short side Issue p. 114.) Follow Fig. B closely if you measuring 57-1/2 in. Screw the forms EditorDave Radtke decide to do it yourself. together with 3-in. deck screws. Have Art DirectorBob Unger Begin by driving a 2-ft. piece of a friend help you align the forms so Tech Art conduit Version3D 5/15/00the eight corners of the forms are all rigid electrical at the intended center of the gazebo. Drive
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JULY / AUGUST 2000
ke R1 Unger R2 3D 5/15/00
S1 S2 T1
T2
35
G A Z E B O
the same distance from the conduit center. If these measurements are all equal, your slab will be a perfect octagonget it as close as you can. Drive 3/4 in. x 2-1/2 in. stakes along the outside of the forms at each intersection, level the forms and screw the forms to the stakes. Now build a square inner form for the patio inlay, 72-1/2 in. on each side. Center it as shown and drive in the stakes on the inside of the forms and screw them together. The slab will require about 1-1/2 yds. of concrete and four 10-ft. pieces of No. 4 rebar. Have plenty of help (at least three strong backs and two heavy-duty wheelbarrows). Wheelbarrow the concrete and dump it into
TIGHTEN THE NUT onto the carriage bolt. Temporarily brace the 4x4s if necessary. Be sure you have the standoff screwed to the posts before you mark and drill the hole.
2
KERF CUT FOR STEEL ANCHOR
CUT THE POSTS TO LENGTH and mount the aluminum standoff underneath. Transfer the hole locations in your steel anchors to the sides of the post. Drill a 1-1/4 in. recessed hole followed by a 3/8-in. hole for the 3-in. carriage bolt,
CARRIAGE BOLT
ALUMINUM POST STANDOFF
washer and nut.
CONCRETE SLAB
18" x 18" PAVERS INSET
36
G A Z E B O
G A Z E B O
2x6 TOP PLATES
the forms, lay rebar 4 in. in along the perimeter, screed the concrete with a straight 2x4, then run the hand oat over it. Set your anchors in at the locations shown in Fig. B. Wait till the concrete is rm (you should have to push hard to leave a thumbprint). Smooth it with a steel trowel, cover it with 4-mil clear plastic and let it set for two days. Keep kids and pets away.
SCREW THE 2x6 TOP PLATES to the 4x4 posts with 3-in. galvanized screws. If your posts are set properly, the top plates should all be the same length. Make any adjustments to ensure the posts will all be plumb. Use a level to plumb the posts and install temporary bracing (shown in Photo 7). Cut and install the post wraps C1 and C2 at this time.
4x4 POSTS (A)
G A Z E B O
Cut your posts to length and bolt them to the steel strap anchors
Make the anchors by cutting 12-in. lengths of 1/8-in. x 1-1/8 in. steel and boring 7/16-in. dia. holes into them as shown in Fig. B. You can nd steel stock next to the threaded rod at your home center. For extra grabbing power for your posts, be sure you put a bolt and nut into the base before you push the steel into the concrete. The 6 in. of steel anchor above the concrete ts into a saw kerf (Photo 1) at the base of each post. Cut this kerf with a circular saw. The blade wont cut all the way through, so ip the post over to continue the cut in the other side. Make the kerf wide enough so you dont have to struggle to slip it over the steel anchor. Before you mark your anchor hole locations, screw the aluminum post standoff to the base of the post. These standoffs keep the post elevated for protection against rot. Mark the anchor hole locations as shown in Photo 1, then drill a 1-1/4 in. hole 1/2 in. deep on each side of the post, followed by a 3/8-in. hole all the way through. The 1-1/4 in. hole recesses the bolt head and nut to make room for the piece youll nail over the post later. Grab a buddy to help set the post while you push the bolt through the hole and tighten it. Once all the posts are in place, cut the 2x6 top plates and screw them to the top of the posts with a pair of 3-in. deck screws. Plumb this framework with some temporary braces.
Give the posts some beef and dimension by nailing the cedar wrap to the tops and bottoms
Nail the 1x4 (C1 and C2) cedar wrap onto the posts rst, then measure this width and rip-cut the wider 1x6 to t (D1 and D2). Nail the wider wrap to the post with 8d galvanized casing nails.
JIGSAW
G A Z E B O
Fig. C
Story Number BALUSTERS (G1) Story NameGazebo / Patterns Issue EditorDave Radtke Art DirectorBob Unger Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00
28"
Picket and Baluster Patterns
24"
4
0"
20"
CUT THE BALUSTERS and the pickets from 1x6 and 2x6 material. See Fig. C. Sand, prime and paint the pieces before installing them. 4" 8" 12" 16"
G2
16"
"
2"
Set up and cut out the gingerbread pieces

J
2-1/2"
12"
"
"
2-1/8" Story Number 4-1/2" These ornate parts do take time, but theres nothing difcult Story NameGazebo / Patterns about cutting them. Use the scale drawing inEIGHT Figs. C and D to CUT Issue 2-1/8" WITH 22-1/2 make a full-size template and trace the shapes onto boards. DEGREE EditorDave Dont think you haveRadtke to cut all of them in one day. BEVELS ON This is the 4-1/2" THIS SIDE Art Unger kind ofDirectorBob task you can chip away at by knocking off several pieces C 3/4" L lower balusters from 1x6 pine and every day after work. Cut the DIA. Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00
28"
8"
24"
the upper pickets (G2 and G3) from 1x4 pine. Use a circular saw
1-1/2" for end cuts and a jigsaw for curves. Once youve nished cutDIA.
4"
"
ting these pieces, sand the edges and prime and paint them.
20"
Fig. D
0" 0"
"
CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE BEVELS ON THIS SIDE 4"
G1
0" 0"
G3
G2
Bracket Pattern
8" 12" 16"
16"
4"
8"
BEVEL CUT ON SIDE
12"
J
2-1/2" 2" BEVEL BOTH SIDES 4" AT 22-1/2 DEGREES
16"
SPEED SQUARE
24"
12"
K1
2-1/8" 4-1/2" GLUE
20"
2-1/8" 3" SCREWS

12"
8" 3/4" DIA. 1-1/2" DIA.
4-1/2" C L
CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE BEVELS ON THIS SIDE
8"
16" CUT 3/4" DIA. FROM HOLES 2x6 x 32" 12"
(J)
8"
91"
4"
1-1/2" DIA. HOLES
12"
4"
K2
CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE 45 DEGREES BEVELS ON THIS 12" SIDE 8"
5
8"
0" 0" 16"
M G3 G1 CUT THE 16 CORNER BRACKETS from 5/4 x 9-1/4 in. pine (which0" is 1-1/8 in. thick). Note that there are 4" eight left- and eight right-hand pieces.
16" 20"
40
4"
0"
0"
4"
45 DEGREES
8"
12"
CURVED RAFTER BUILDUP CUT FROM 2x8
0"
4"
8"
12"
16"
20"
G A Z E B O
Cut the corner braces (J) from 5/4 (1-1/8 in. thick) pine (Photo 5). After you cut the shape, bevel-cut one side with your circular saw set at 22-1/2
MITER AND SCREW THE RAILS AND HEADERS to the posts with 3-in. galvanized screws. Nail the balusters (G1) to the cleats, which are nailed to the cedar rails. Use 1-1/4 in. galvanized nails. A power finish nailer is handy here.
H1
F BALUSTER (G1)
CEDAR WRAP (C2)
degrees. Keep in mind that theres a left and a right corner brace for each post. Prime and paint these as well. Nail the corner braces to the post and rail with 8d galvanized casing nails after you install the rails, lower balusters, upper pickets and all the cleats. Use 4d galvanized casing nails to nail the cleats to the rails.
TOP PLATE
TEMPORARY UPPER BRACES
7
SCREW UPPER BRACES to the top plates (B). These will help stabilize the structure as you assemble the roof. Be sure the posts are anchored with braces as well.
TEMPORARY LOWER BRACES
42
DIA. 4" 1-1/2" DIA. CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE BEVELS ON THIS SIDE
2"
G A Z E B O
G1 G3
0"
6"
The cupola practically builds itself Story Number with this unique rafter system Story NameGazebo / Patterns
Issue EditorDave Radtke Art DirectorBob Unger Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00
BEVEL BOTH SIDES AT 22-1/2 DEGREES 16" GLUE 3" SCREWS 12"
UPPER RAFTER PATTERN
28"
Fig. E
4" 8" 12"
0"
Cupola Rafter
24"
24"
K1
20"
20"
16" CUT FROM 2x6 x 32"
G2
0"
4"
8"
12"
16"
12"
16"
8"
0"
91"
K2
4"
2"
J
2-1/2"
8"
12"
4" 0" 0"
8
4"
8"
45 DEGREES 2-1/8" 8" 12" 4-1/2" 16" 20"
4"
CUT THE CURVED CUPOLA RAFTERS from the template shown RAFTER BUILDUP CUT EIGHT in Fig. E. Cut the rafters CUT FROM 2x8 and the curved rafter tail 2-1/8" WITH 22-1/2 buildups using the information in Fig. F. DEGREE
4-1/2" BEVELS ON THIS SIDE C 3/4" Study Figs. A, E and F and Photo 10. L DIA. Cut your lower rafters (K1) and screw 1-1/2" curved rafter tail buildups (K2) to the DIA. 12" ends of the lower rafter. Cut the 1x2 inner and outer verticalCUT rafter ties (L EIGHT WITH and P). Notice that these 2x422-1/2 outer DEGREE vertical rafter ties have slots cutON in BEVELS THISand SIDE them to slip over the upper lower 16"
0"
8"
45 DEGREES 4" 8" 12" 16" 20"
0"
rafters. You can cut these slots with a table saw or circular saw, working from each end. First cut one side with multiple passes and then ip the rafter tie over and cut multiple passes from the other side. Youll get an angled slope at the end of the slot from the roundness of the blade.
4"
G1
0"
G3
SAW 0" BEVEL SET AT 45 DEGREES

24"
4"
8"
12"
Fig. F
16"
Rafter Assembly
K1
GLUE 3" SCREWS
BEVEL BOTH SIDES AT 22-1/2 DEGREES
1"
20"
4x4 BLANK FOR CENTER HUB (N)
12"
16"
9
CUT
8"
91"
K2
4"
SHAPE THEFROM CENTER HUB (N) into an octagon. in 2x6 xMeasure 32" from each side about 1 in. and 12" cut along this line with your saw bevel set at a 45-degree angle. The finished octagon 8" should be about 1-1/2 in. on a side.
4"
45 DEGREES 0" 0" 4" 8" 12" 16" 20"
45 DEGREES
44
0"
0"
4"
8"
12"
16"
20"
G A Z E B O
Assemble the rafter sections before hauling them to the roof

RAFTER TAIL BUILDUP (SEE FIG. F)
FASTEN EACH RAFTER SYSTEM to the center octagonal hub. Install opposite sides one after the other to maintain the shape of the octagon.
11
ANGLED PLATE
NAIL THE ANGLED PLATES (see Buyers Guide, p. 53) to the rafter and to the top plates to secure the rafters to the structure.
12
VERTICAL RAFTER TIES (P)
UPPER RAFTER (M)
STEEL STRAP
CENTER HUB (N)
CENTER HUB (N)
RAFTER ASSEMBLY SCREWED TO CENTER HUB
NOTE: DONT DO THIS ON A WINDY DAY
10
ATTACH TWO OPPOSITE RAFTERS to the center hub. Then grab a partner and carefully walk the assembly up to position. See Photo 11 for nailing detail.
TEMPORARY BRACE
46
Q P 13" Q
LOWER FASCIA (R1)
Shingle the cupola rst

S2 S1
13
SCREW THE HORIZONTAL RAFTER TIES to the sides of each outer vertical rafter tie.
14
NAIL THE LOWER FASCIA (R1) to the rafter tail ends. Miter the ends with the saw set at 22-1/2 degrees.
15
MIND LIKE A STEEL TRAP
16
5/4 x 6" CEDAR DECKING
SHINGLE THE CUPOLA before shingling the lower roof. Otherwise, youll damage the lower shingles when you go up and down.
NAIL THE ROOF DECKING to the rafters with 8d nails. Be sure to screw (use 3/4-in. screws) the steel strap to the lower roof boards for extra support. The strap ties the narrower boards together to prevent sagging.
STARTER COURSES ARE RIP-CUT TO MAKE THE CURVE
12" STEEL STRAP
FASCIA BOARD
Lay out the rafter parts (not including the center octagonal piece N) on a large at area like a garage oor or a driveway (look at the upper left diagram of Fig. A). Fasten the upper and lower rafter to the 1x2 (L) with 2-in. screws. These rafters run parallel, with a 14-1/2 in. space between them. Next screw part P into the sides of the upper and lower rafter so that its parallel to part L. Build the rest of the assemblies and then mount a pair to the center hub (N; see Photo 9). Follow Photos 10 12 to mount the rafter assemblies to the top plates.
Deck the roof

Cut your lower fascia from 1x10 cedar. Hold it 7/8 in. above the ends of the rafters so your roof decking will be ush with the fascia. Rip 5-1/2 in. decking in half for the rst seven courses so theyll be able to bend around the lower curved section. Cut each end of the decking at 22-1/2 degrees for the rst course and change the angle slightly until you nally reach about 16 degrees for the rest of the full-width courses.
48
There are a few things you need to know about using the Carriage House Shangle roong material. First of all, these shingles are heavy, and a bit tougher to work with than ordinary asphalt shingles. They also cost about twice as much, but we thought the nished look was well worth it. Dont buy the special cap shingles for the ridges; full cap shingles will look out of place. Instead, buy a matching color of ordinary asphalt shingles. You can cut these to t the width and proportion of this small structure. At the cupola where the surfaces are all curved, youll need to remove the top one-third of each shingle to get it to lie at. The cap over the seams should be cut narrower and shorter to follow the concave curve. Another thing to remember for the lower section: The cap shingles should be full width, but the length on the bottom four rows of cap needs to be cut down several inches to make the curve.
G A Z E B O
Painting your gazebo

NO. 15 ROOFING FELT EXTEND SHINGLE BEYOND FASCIA 3/4" DECORATIVE SHINGLE (SEE BUYERS GUIDE)
Prime and paint if you please, but keep in mind that painting the gazebo means a lot of prep and repainting work in the future. Its best to paint just the gingerbread features as accents, and then seal the unpainted parts with a brush-on oil sealer. Id recommend applying the oil rst, then painting the next day. Dont bother oiling the underside of the roof. Because its out of the weather and direct sun, itll look fresh for years to come.
17
SHINGLE EACH LOWER ROOF SECTION, then move to the opposite side. Keep the exposure consistent from side to side by measuring as you go.
50
G A Z E B O
Buyers Guide
The following three products are available at most home centers and hardware stores. If you need help nding them, call Simpson Strong-Tie at (800) 999-5099 or check out its Web site at www.strongtie.com. I The steel straps at the top plate and on the roong are Simpson No. LSTA12. I The angles for the rafter holddowns are Simpson No. A23. I The standoffs are Simpson No. APS4. Carriage House Shangles are made by CertainTeed. Call (800) 345-1145 to nd a dealer near you. Savannah shingles also are decorative asphalt shingles and are made by GeorgiaPacic. Call (800) 284-5347 for a dealer near you. Or check the Web at www.gp.com.
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION 4x4 x 10 cedar (posts) 2x6 x 10 cedar (top plates) 1x4 x 14 cedar (wrap) 1x4 x 8 cedar (wrap) 1x6 x 14 cedar (wrap) 1x6 x 8 cedar (wrap) 2x4 x 10 cedar (rails and headers) 1x6 x 14 cedar (balusters) 1x4 x 8 cedar (pickets) 1x6 x 10 cedar ripped (3/4strips) 5/4 x 10 x 8 cedar (corner braces) 2x6 x 10 cedar (rafters) 2x8 x 8 cedar (rafter buildups) 1x2 x 12 cedar (parts L) 2x6 x 8 cedar (cupola rafters) 4x4 x 5 cedar (octagonal hub) 2x4 x 8 cedar (outer ties P) 2x4 x 14 cedar (horizontal ties Q) 1x10 x 12 cedar (lower fascia) 1x6 x 8 cedar (upper fascia) 5/4 x 6 cedar decking 10-ft. lengths Shangles (asphalt shingles) 15-lb. roong felt Roong nails Simpson straps, No. LSTA12 Simpson angles, No. A23 Simpson standoffs, No. APS4 Joist hanger nails (galvanized) 1-1/8 x 1/8 x 8 steel (anchors) 3/8 x 3 carriage bolts 3/8 x 3 hex bolts 3/8 nuts and washers 6d galvanized casing nails 8d galvanized casing nails 4d galvanized casing nails 8d galvanized common nails Hook blades for shingle cutting 3 galvanized screws
Art Direction BOB UNGAR Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations GENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
QTY. 8 4 7 1 7 1 20 10 11 6 4 8 2 2 3 1 3 1 4 2 50 3-1/2 squares 1 roll 10 lbs. 16 16 8 5 lbs. 1 8 8 16 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 3 5 lbs.
Given the scope of this project, youd expect it to take an arsenal of carpentry toolsnot so
Heres what you need to do the concrete base:
Tape measure I String line I Sod cutter to remove the turf I Shovel to level the ground I Circular saw to cut the forms I Screw gun
I
Sledgehammer to drive the stakes I Level to even the forms I 2x4 screed to even the concrete I A hand float to smooth the concrete I A steel trowel for nal nishing
I
Here are the tools you need to build the gazebo:

String line I Tape measure I Wrench set I Drill I Circular saw I Jigsaw (with lots of blades) I Framing square
I
12-in. Speed square I Hammer I Screw gun I Utility knife (standard blades
I
and hook blades)

I
Power miter saw (optional)
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2000
53
When I decided to build a cupola to dress up my bland garage, I began by taking a walk. Most of the cupolas in my neighborhood are purely decorative. But the really old ones those that sit atop garages that were once carriage houseswere built for both decoration and ventilation. In the days before roof and ridge vents, a cupola was the most effective way to ventilate a stable, barn or even a house. Old or new, most of the cupolas I saw had some peeling paint or rotting wood. There were two typical trouble spots: the saddle, the part of the cupola that sits directly on the roof, and the sill, which rests on the saddle. To make my saddle maintenance-free, I wrapped it in aluminum ashing (Photo 14). To avoid problems at the sill, I beveled mine
and left no at areas where water could stand (Photo 1). I also used vinyl brick mold, rather than wood, to frame the vents.
Cupo
HOW TO BUILD
Decoration, Ventilation
56
and a Hangout
ola
A
for Y our Rooster .
by Mac Wentz
Start with the Vent
Housing
BEVEL 2x6s on a table saw. To cut the pieces that will form the sill of the cupola, bolt a 1x6 to the saws fence (to keep the workpiece from tilting), set the blade at 19 degrees and position the fence 3/4 in. from the blade. To bevel the soffit parts, set the blade at 45 degrees and the fence 4-1/4 in. from the blade. To make bevel cutting easier, we first cut 2x6s into 30-in. sections. When all eight pieces are beveled, sand them and then miter the ends at 45 degrees. Save the beveled cut-offs from the sill and rip about 1/4 in. off them. Youll use them later to complete the slope of the sill (Photo 4). ASSEMBLE the sill and soffit frames by screwing temporary plywood scraps to the undersides of the 2x6s. Dont cover up the cornersyoull need to drive screws through them later. And make sure that the sill and soffit frames are perfectly square.
1
WARNING: GUARD MUST BE REMOVED FOR THIS PROCEDURE. USE CAUTION! SILL
PARTS CEDAR 2x6
1x6
This article will show you how to build and install a cupola with these maintenance-saving features. The cupolas structure is fairly simple, and all the dimensions, curves and angles are provided. The curved witchs hat roof may look like the work of a master carpenter, but the entire cupola is an intermediate-level project. In fact, a novice with just a little carpentry experience can do a satisfactory job. After all, minor mistakes wont be visible from the ground. But you will need several power tools (table saw, jigsaw, circular saw, drill and router) and at least three full days to build this cupola. NOTE: A cupola mounted on a garage or shed will keep the building cooler in hot weather and drier during damp seasons. But for your homes attic, a cupola alone doesnt provide adequate ventilation: By itself, it doesnt let enough air escape, nor does it provide a place for air to enter the attic. For effective ventilation, install soft vents along with roof or ridge vents. (See How a House Works, Nov. 97, p. 96. To order, see p. 112).
58
JULY / AUGUST 1999
FENCE 3/4"
CUT-OFFS
SOFFIT PARTS
PLYWOOD SCRAPS
SILL FRAMING SQUARE
3
SILL
THEN SCREW the sill to the corner posts. Drill pilot holes and drive four 3-in. screws into each post, two on each side of the miter joint. The inner edge of each post should meet the inside corner of the sill.
CEDAR CORNER POST
BASIC MATERIALS
Youll spend about $150 to build this cupola, less than half the cost of a similar manufactured model. Most home centers and lumberyards carry everything you need. Heres your shopping list: I One 8-ft. cedar 4x4 (actual size is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.) I Three 10-ft. cedar 2x6s I One 8-ft. 2x2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in.) I One 4x8 sheet of 3/8-in. plywood I One 4x8 sheet of 3/4-in. pressure-treated plywood I Four 8-ft. pieces of brick mold. Vinyl brick mold is maintenance-free, but it holds paint poorly and is usually available only in white. If you want a different color, youll have to use wood brick mold. I Four 12 x 12-in. vinyl or aluminum gable vents. The dimensions refer to the louvered area, not the vents frame. Our 12 x 12-in. vents measured 14-1/2 x 14-3/4 in. Metal vents, which are usually white, can be spray painted. For a lasting paint job, lightly sand the vents with 220-grit sandpaper rst. I One bundle of shingles. Home centers usually stock a few common colors and can special-order many others. I One 10-ft. long roll of aluminum ashing. Painted ashing usually comes with one side white, the other dark brown. But you can lightly sand and spray paint it after its applied to the saddle. The width of the ashing you need depends on the pitch of your roof; the steeper your roof, the longer the sides of the saddle (Fig. A, p. 64).
4
COUNTERSINK BIT
CUT-OFFS
SILL
VINYL BRICK MOLD
ASSEMBLE brick mold frames between the posts. Predrill and countersink the holes before driving screws. You may have to draw the posts together or spread them apart to make the top piece of brick mold fit. Screw the bottom and sides of the frames to the posts and screw the top piece to the sides. Remember to fasten the beveled cut-offs to the sill with nails and construction adhesive before you install the brick mold. Fig. A on p. 64 shows the details.
5
SOFFIT
SCREW the vents to the backsides of the brick mold frames with 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws. Then attach the soffit to the corner posts just as you attached the sill.
BRICK MOLD FRAME VENT
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 1999
59
Build the Witchs
Cap Roof
6
PLASTIC DOOR STOP BAR CLAMP 35 DEGREES 1-1/2"
Galvanized screws (1-1/4, 2 and 3 in.), 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws, 1-in. galvanized nails, 3/4-in. roong nails, construction adhesive, acrylic caulk, roof cement (two tubes).
I
CENTER OF RAFTER
MARK and cut one rafter, then use it as a template to mark the other three. To mark the curve, we put a section of plastic door stop molding in a bar clamp and tightened the clamp until the curve was right. Any thin piece of wood will work, but we used plastic because it doesnt have knots or any other imperfections that lead to an inconsistent arch. Use a protractor ($5 at home centers) to mark the correct angles at the ends of the rafters.
PROTRACTOR
BUILD THE VENT HOUSING FIRST
55 DEGREES
on p. 64 gives all the dimensions youll need to cut the parts for the housing. Photos 1 5 show how it all goes together. Here are some pointers to help you along: I Unless you have a radial arm saw or sliding miter saw, use a circular saw to miter the ends of the 2x6s that make up the sill and soft. A circular saw isnt the best tool for making perfect miters, but small imperfections wont be visible from the ground. I We cut coves into three corners of each 4x4 post (Photo 3) using a 1/2-in. radius cove router bit ($16 from Trend Lines; 800-767-9999; Item CT1025K). I Use a couple of pieces of duct tape to hold each vent in place as you drive screws through the vents frame and into the brick mold. To save yourself the trouble of drilling pilot holes, use self-tapping screws. I Fill the cracks in the sill and soft and seal around the
Fig. A
7
2x2 HUB 3/8" PLYWOOD BASE
JOIN the rafters using a 6-1/2 in. piece of 2x2 as a hub. Screw the hub to two of the rafters, and fasten the other two by driving 3-in. screws through the rafters into the hub. Center the rafter assembly on a 26 x 26in. piece of 3/8-in. plywood and drive 1-1/4 in. screws from below through the plywood and into the lower end of each rafter. Cut a hole in the plywood base so the roof can dry out if water gets in. FASTEN the 3/8-in. plywood to the rafters with 1-1/4 in. screws. Begin at the middle, driving the screws at an angle. There should be a gap (about 1/2 in. wide) between the pieces of sheathing. When the sheathing is done, center the roof on the vent housing and drive four screws up through the soffit into the roofs base. You can remove the roof later to make it easier to carry. Important: Be sure to cut the roof sheathing so that the grain runs horizontally across each piece. Plywood bends more easily across the grain than with the grain.
8
3/8" PLYWOOD
GRAIN RUNS HORIZONTALLY GAP
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 1999
63
Fig. A Cupola Details

2x2 HUB, 6-1/2" LONG 3/8" PLYWOOD ROOF SHEATHING (SEE PATTERN) 5" 9" CUT 14"
Roof
2x6 RAFTER (SEE PATTERN)
21" 1-1/2" 5-1/2" 12" DIA. HOLE 3/8" x 26" x 26" PLYWOOD BASE 2x6 SOFFIT, 28" x 28" OVERALL 4x4 POST, 17" LONG 1-1/4" x 2" VINYL BRICK MOLD, 17" x 17" OVERALL (13" x 13" OPENING) 18-3/4" 3/4" 55 CUT FROM 2x6 35
Vent Housing
45 MITER (TYP.)
C L
CUT FROM 3/8" PLYWOOD
26"
PEAK FLASHING HUB ASPHALT SHINGLES RAFTER ROOF PANEL
LOUVERED VENT 2x6 SILL, 28" x 28" OVERALL 2x2 ROOF CLEAT BEVELED SILL CUT-OFF
2-1/2" BASE SOFFIT 1/2" RAD. COVE IN POST
POST
Saddle
FLASHING TABS 2" 4" MIN.
1-1/4"
1/4"
1-1/4"
2" OVERLAP CUT-OFF 3-1/2" BRICK MOLD CAULK SILL 2-1/2"
2x2 CLEAT, 24-1/2" LONG ALUMINUM FLASHING; WRAP SADDLE AND BEND OVER TOP AND BOTTOM EDGES 3/4" PRESSURE-TREATED PLYWOOD SADDLE, 26" x 26" OVERALL
64
CLEAT
8" TO 16" (DEPENDS ON ROOF PITCH)
SADDLE
CLEAT
vents, brick mold and posts with acrylic latex caulk. Water that gets into the vent housing may lead to peeling paint. You can also use caulk and a putty knife to cover the screwheads in the brick mold. I Acrylic latex paint is the best nish for the wood parts. But always prime cedar with an oil-based primer designed to seal in tannins, natural chemicals that bleed through latex paint, leaving brownish stains.
THE TRICKY PART: A WITCHS CAP ROOF
The curved roof is the most time-consuming part of this project. Here are some tips to make the job go smoothly: I Use a jigsaw to cut the curved rafters. Dont worry about making the curves perfect. The roof sheathing will smooth over bumps and dips. I Mark the curves for the roof sheathing using a piece of door stop and a bar clamp like you did for the rafters
Weather Vanes by Mail

Mail-order weather vanes cost anywhere from $40 to more than $1,000. You can browse the Web (just search for weather vanes) or request a catalog from one of the following suppliers: COLONIAL CUPOLAS: Dept. TFH, 1816 Nemoke Trail, Haslett, MI 48840; (517) 349-6185. CROSSWINDS GALLERY INC.: Dept. TFH, 29 Buttonwood St., Bristol, RI 02809; (401) 253-0344. DENNINGER WEATHER VANES & FINIALS: Dept. TFH, 77 Whipple Rd., Middletown, NY 10940; (914) 343-2229.
JULY / AUGUST 1999
65
FULL SHINGLES 5"
STARTER STRIP
(Photo 6). The curve is gradual enough to be cut with a circular saw set to a cutting depth of about 1/2 in. I The gaps between the pieces of sheathing at the ridges (Photo 8) will allow the ridgecap shingles to curve gently over the ridges. If you place the sheathing pieces tightly together, youll get a sharp ridge and the shingles will crack when you bend them. I Cut full-size shingles into 4-in. wide strips with a utility knife, using a framing square as a guide. Each of the three tabs on a full shingle is about 12 in. wide., so youll get nine small shingles from each full shingle.
CLIMB UP TO THE ROOFTOP
SHINGLE the roof beginning with a starter strip, a full shingle nailed to the roof upside down. The starter strip should overhang the plywood by about 3/4 in. With the starter strips in place, begin nailing on the 4-in. wide shingles. As with the plywood roof sheathing, leave a gap between the shingles at the ridges. Glue the lower edge of each 4-in. tab down with a dab of roofing cement.
SHINGLES CUT TO 4" WIDE
ROOFING CEMENT
5" LONG SHINGLE
10
3" RIDGE CAP
NAIL the ridge cap shingles over the ridges. Lay heavy beads of roofing cement along both sides of the ridge. To make the shingles conform to the curve of the ridge, we cut them 5 in. long. The first shingle on each ridge must be cut to match the corner of the roof. The corners of the stiff shingles may stand up at first, but a few hours in the hot sun will make them lie flat.
If your roof is too steep to comfortably walk and stand on, youll want to use roof brackets (Photo 17) and/or a safety harness. (For a guide to safety equipment, see Roof Safety, March 96, p. 60. To order, see p. 112.) And remember that rooftop safety also includes keeping away from power lines. If you dont want ventilation, simply mount the sad66
11
METAL FLASHING
CUT HERE
CAP the roof by folding a 9 x 14-in. piece of flashing around the peak (see Fig. A). Hold the flashing in place while you mark it for cutting. When the cap is cut, fold it back into its pyramid shape, squeeze a large blob of roofing cement into it, press it onto the peak and drive one roofing nail through the side of the cap that has the overlapping seam.
Custom-t the Saddle
12
dle, as shown in Photo 15, without doing anything to your roof. If your cupola will be used for ventilation, youll have to cut a hole in your roof. The hole should be about 16 in. wide at the ridge and extend 10 to 14 in. down from the ridge, depending on the pitch of your roof. You can cut the hole with a circular saw or jigsaw, but be careful to cut only through your roofs sheathing and not into any of the structural lumber underneath. Cutting through asphalt shingles will ruin a saw blade. So either use an old blade or rst cut away the shingles with a utility knife. The cupola isnt terribly heavy: The three parts weigh about 80 lbs. altogether. But they are large and clumsy. If youre not comfortable carrying them up a ladder, rent scaffolding (about $10 per day for a 5-ft. tall section). For a typical garage, youll need only one section of scaffolding. For a one-story house, you may need two sections. Once the cupola is on the roof, all thats left is screwing the three parts together, caulking and touching up the paint. Now theres something to crow about!
CONSTRUCT a roof pitch gauge by laying two boards over the ridge of your roof and screwing them together.
13
ROOF PITCH GAUGE CENTER OF SADDLE
4" TO 5"
MARK two sides of the saddle using your roofpitch gauge. Place the point of the gauge on the center line about 4 in. from the top of the saddle and align the legs of the gauge with the inside edges of the saddle. Then cut out the V-shaped notch that will straddle the ridge of the roof. For the saddles construction, see Fig. A.
3/4" PRESSURETREATED PLYWOOD
14
FLASHING
SEAM
SCREWS FLAP
WRAP flashing tightly around the saddle and fasten down the seam with self-tapping screws. To crease flashing around corners, use a hammer and wood block. When the saddle is wrapped, fold down the overhanging flashing along the top and bottom edges. At the V-notch, cut the flashing, fold the flaps into the saddle and secure each flap temporarily with one screw. All of this is a lot easier if you have a helper. And be sure to wear glovesor plan to visit the emergency room for stitches!
67
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 1999
Screw the three parts together and youre done!

FASTEN the saddle to the roof with 2x2 cleats. First lay a bead of roofing cement on the roof along each sloped side of the saddle. Then fold the four flaps down over the cement (cut them back if they extend over the roof hole). Drive 2-in. screws through the 2x2s into the saddle and 3-in. screws into the roof. Seal the gap at the ridge with roofing cement and caulk around the upper edge of the saddle. But leave the two low edges of the saddle unsealed so any water that gets in can drain out.
CAULK
ROOFING CEMENT CLEAT 2x2 RAIL FLAP
4" MINIMUM
15
ROOF BRACKET
FASTEN the vent housing to the saddle by driving 3-in. screws through the sill into the 2x2 rails inside the saddle. Be sure the housing is centered on the saddle before you drive any screws.
VENT HOUSING
SILL
16
DRIVE 2-in. screws through the soffit into the roofs plywood base. Then caulk over the screwheads and touch them up with paint.
SADDLE
Art Direction BILL FABER and HOPE FAY Photography ROBERT BRANTLEY and MIKE KRIVIT Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON Guest Rooster RED
17
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 1999
69
Cedar Potting Bench

You can build this handy potting bench in a weekend.
Whether youre a spare-time gardener or a hard-core enthusiast, this bench is for you. It has plenty of storage to keep all your plant supplies in one convenient location, and it features a built-in potting soil container and a grate-covered dirt catcher to make messy potting and cleanup a snap.
SOLID NOTCHED JOINTS
BUILT-IN POTTING SOIL CONTAINER
GRATECOVERED DIRT CATCHER
REMOVABLE CONTAINER COVER
by Jeff Gorton
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2000
69
Fig. A POTTING BENCH

1-1/2" x 1-3/4" NOTCH
1/4"
3/4" (BACK) 2" (FRONT)
1 REMOVABLE GRATE R,S K

SHELF BRACKET 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" NOTCH
M Q 1
H N Q M Q
REMOVABLE COVER 2,4
Q P J P U W 2
1 CUT OUT TO FIT
E L
1 1
G E T
1-1/2" x 2-1/2" NOTCH 1
2,4
V
1/4" SPACING
A
1" x 2-1/2" NOTCH
D F
C F,J A 2
3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES
2,5 C,E F,G 3,5 B

3/4"
3/4"
C,E
62" (REAR LEG A) 2" x 45 BEVEL 3-1/2" 3-1/2"
3,5
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
FASTENERS 1-1/4" STAINLESS SCREWS 2" STAINLESS SCREWS 3" STAINLESS SCREWS 3/8" WOOD SCREW PLUGS 3/8" WOOD BUTTON PLUGS 1-1/4" FINISH NAILS
55-1/2" 44" 29-1/2" 7-1/4" 2-1/2" 3/4" DEEP (TYPICAL) 3-1/2" 33" (FRONT LEG B)
70
2-1/2"
6"
LEG NOTCHES
Shopping List
QTY. ITEM 2x6 x 8 cedar (rip to 2-1/2 for legs) 1 2x4 x 6 cedar (rip to 2-1/2 for lower 1 cross members) 2x4 x 4 cedar 1 1x2 x 4 cedar 3 1 1x3 x 8 cedar 2 1x4 x 8 cedar 1x8 x 4 cedar 3 5/4 x 6 x 4 9 bullnose cedar 2 x 2 3/4 plywood 1 HARDWARE 1-1/4 stainless steel screws 2 stainless steel screws 3 stainless steel screws 1-1/4 nish nails 3/8 wood screw plugs* 3/8 wood button plugs* 10-oz. tube of construction adhesive Water-resistant wood glue 6x 8 decorative shelf brackets 10x 14 x 18 deep Rubbermaid wastebasket 14 x 20 x 4 deep litter pan 100-grit sandpaper sheets
Cutting List
KEY A B C D E F G H J K L M N P Q R S T U V W PCS. 2 2 2 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 2 2 5 7 12 2 2 4 1 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 62 (back legs) 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 33 (front legs) 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 21 (lower cross members) 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 21 (middle cross member) 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 21 (upper cross members) 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 47 (lower rails) 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 47 (upper rail) 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 47 (shelf rails) 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 47 (backsplash) 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 47 (shelves) 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 42-1/2 (bench-top support) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 10-1/2 (cover cleats) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 12-1/2 (grate cleats) 1 x 5-1/2 x 23 (bench-top ends; cut to t) 1 x 5-1/2 x 23 (bench top) 1 x 1 x 23-1/2 (slats) 1 x 1 x 4 (spacers) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 25-1/2 (container cleats) 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 16-3/4 (bench-top cleats) 1 x 5-1/2 x 47 (lower shelf) 12-3/4 x 20-1/4 x 3/4 plywood (container support)
SQUARE
80 50 10 1 lb. 30 10 1 1 4
BACK LEGS (A)
1
NOTCHES FOR SHELF RAILS (H)
3/4" DEEP KERFS
MARK THE NOTCH LOCATIONS on the legs (A and B) using the dimensions in Fig. A. Make a series of 3/4-in. deep saw kerfs about 1/4 in. apart to create the notches.
1 1 2
* Wood plugs are available from home centers and Woodcraft (800-225-1153, or on-line at www.woodcraft.com).
CHISEL
In this article, well show you how to build this cedar potting bench in a weekend with about $176 worth of materials. We designed this bench to be strong without complex joints. An experienced woodworker can complete this potting bench in a day. If youre a beginner, allow two or three days. Youll need basic carpentry tools like a tape measure, large and small squares, and a chisel. You could make most of the cuts for this potting bench with a circular saw. However, a power miter box will ensure perfectly square end cuts, and a table saw is almost essential for cutting the grate slats. If you dont have a table saw, ask a friend, neighbor or the staff at the lumberyard to cut the pieces for you. Youll also need a drill with the bits mentioned in the story and a jigsaw.
WOOD RASP
CHISEL OUT THE WASTE WOOD from the notches and smooth the bottom with a wood rasp.
Choose straight, nice-looking lumber

Use the Shopping List above to buy your materials. We used cedar for our bench, but pine is cheaper. Consider using pressure-treated pine if youll be leaving the bench outside. All of these are available at home centers and lumberyards. But make sure to pick straight boards with at least one nice-looking side. You can hide a few minor defects on the back or underside of
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
the bench. Also, avoid boards with large knots, which will weaken key parts and make it harder to cut the notches. When you get your materials home, cut the pieces to size using the Cutting List above. Many of the parts, like the 1 x 1-in. slats for the grate and the 2-1/2 in. wide legs,
JULY / AUGUST 2000
71
Cedar Potting Bench
FRONT LEG ASSEMBLY
have to be cut the length of the board. This operation, called ripping, is possible with a circular saw, but its much quicker, easier and more accurate with a table saw.
Make tight-fitting joints for a strong bench

Photos 1 and 2 show how
FRAMING SQUARE BACKSPLASH (J)
to notch the legs for the horizontal cross members. Notching looks tricky, but its simple if you follow these key steps: First clamp each pair of legs together, and using dimensions from Fig. A, mark the lower edge of each notch. Use a square to draw lines across the boards at these marks. Then align the corresponding horizontal board with this line and mark along the opposite edge to get an exact width. Using the boards in this manner to mark the width of the notch is more accurate than measuring. When you saw the notch, cut to the waste side of the pencil line, leaving the line on the board. You can always enlarge the notch or plane the board to t a notch thats too tight, but you cant shrink a notch thats too wide. Tight-tting joints strengthen the bench and look better too.
SPREAD A SMALL BEAD OF CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE in each notch and lay the horizontal pieces in place. Use a framing square to make sure the cross members are at right angles to the legs, then drive a pair of 2-in. screws at each joint.
2" SCREWS SHELF RAILS (H) BACK LEGS (A) 5/32" HOLES
SCREW THE HORIZONTAL CROSS MEMBERS (C and E) to the back leg assembly. Drill and countersink the front leg assembly and attach it to members C and E with 3-in. screws. Cover the screws with decorative wood plugs.
LOWER RAIL (F) 3" SCREWS FRONT LEGS (B) 3/4" SPACER BLOCK
LOWER CROSS MEMBERS (C)
UPPER CROSS MEMBERS (E) LOWER RAIL (F) 2" SCREWS
72
Assembly is quick once the parts are cut

show how to assemble the leg sections and connect them to form the bench frame. Before you screw the horizontal pieces to the legs, pick the best-looking side of the boards and make sure its facing the front of the bench. (The best sides are facing down in Photo 3.) Drill 5/32-in. clearance holes through the cross members to avoid splitting them and to allow the screws to draw the boards tight to the legs. Use only one 1-1/4 in. screw to attach parts F and G to the front legs. Center the screw so it doesnt interfere with the 3-in. screws youll be installing to secure the leg assembly (Photo 4). Use a 3/4-in. spacer block (Photo 4) to align the cross members (E) before you drive in the 3-in. screws. If youll be leaving your bench outdoors, use stainless steel screws or corrosion-resistant deck screws. For extra strength and durability, put a small dab of construction adhesive on each joint before you screw the pieces together. To hide the 3-in. screws that secure the front legs, use a 3/8-in. brad point drill bit to drill 1/4-in. deep recesses before you drill the 5/32-in. clearance
Photos 3 and 4
1/2" STARTER HOLES
BENCH-TOP SUPPORT (L) CONTAINER CLEAT (T)
5
TRACE THE WASTEBASKET onto the 3/4-in. plywood (W). Draw a second line about 1/2 in. inside the traced outline. Drill a 1/2-in. starter hole and cut along the inside line with a jigsaw. Screw the bench-top support (L) and container cleats (T) to the bench and screw the plywood (W) into place.
WASTEBASKET OUTLINE JIGSAW PLYWOOD (W) WASTEBASKET
WATERRESISTANT GLUE
1-1/4" NAILS
SPACERS (S) SLATS (R)
1/16" DRILL BIT
6
POTTING SOIL CONTAINER (WASTEBASKET)
GLUE AND NAIL THE SLATS and spacers together to make the grate. Drill 1/16-in. pilot holes for the nails to prevent splitting the wood. Spread water-resistant glue on both surfaces and nail the slats and spacers together with 1-1/4 in. finish nails. Clamp the completed assembly with bar clamps and allow it to dry overnight. Trim the 23-1/2 in. grate to 23 in. with your circular saw or table saw and sand the edge smooth.
CLEATS (M) DIRT CATCHER (PLASTIC LITTER BOX)
ASSEMBLE THE COVER for the dirt container by screwing cleats (M) to the bottom of the 5/4 x 6-in. decking (Q). Screw cleats (N) to the bottom of the completed grate.
BENCH-TOP BOARDS (Q)
GRATE
7
JULY / AUGUST 2000
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
73
8
3/8" WOOD PLUGS BENCH-TOP END (P)
Cedar Potting Bench

ATTACH THE FIXED BENCHTOP PIECES (Q) with 1-1/4 in. screws driven up through the bench-top cleats (U). Secure the bench-top ends (P) and bottom shelf boards (V) by driving 1-1/4 in. screws through predrilled and countersunk holes. Conceal these screws with wood plugs glued into the recesses. Sand the plugs flush when the glue dries.
5/32" HOLES BENCH-TOP CLEAT (U)
3/8" WOOD BUTTONS
holes. Then glue 3/8-in. wood buttons into the recesses after you screw the parts together. Keep a framing square handy as you assemble the leg sections and bench frame and use it to make sure the assemblies are square before you tighten the screws.
Photo 5 shows how to mark and
cut the plywood that supports the potting soil container. We used a plastic wastebasket, but any container with a lip will work. Trace the shape on a piece of plywood and then cut the hole a little smaller so the plywood supports the lip.
The bench top is made of 1-in. thick bullnose cedar decking. Join two pieces with cleats to make a removable cover for the dirt container (Photo 7). Glue 1 x 1-in. slats together with water-resistant wood glue to form the grate (Photo 6). Scrape off excess glue before it dries. Then allow the glue to dry overnight before you sand the grate and trim the ends ush. Screw cleats to the bottom of the grate to keep it positioned and allow easy removal. The width of the end pieces (P) varies, depending on the dimensions of your decking. To determine the width, rst center the grate, removable cover and three more boards on the bench top, leaving an equal space on each end. Then measure the distance from the last board to the outside edge of the back leg and cut and notch the end pieces to t. Glue 3/8-in. wood plugs into
74
9
3/8-in. by 1/4-in. deep recesses to hide the screws that hold the two end pieces (P) and lower shelf boards in place. Sand them ush after the glue dries. Complete the potting bench by notching the 1x8 shelves (Photo 9) and securing them with 2-in. screws through the horizontal 1x4 shelf rails (H). We used black metal shelf brackets to support the ends.
NOTCH FOR LEG
SHELF (K)
Protect your bench with a good finish

Unnished cedar has some resistance to decay, but the best strategy is to apply a top-quality exterior nish to keep the wood from cracking, splitting and rotting. Penetrating oiltype nishes with a small amount of pigment provide a natural look and reduce fading. Finishes that leave a lm provide the best protection. Spar varnish or Sikkens are two examples. Take extra precautions to seal the bottom of the legs to keep them from absorbing moisture from the damp ground. For interior use, any good-quality varnish will work.
Art Direction BARBARA PEDERSON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE and RAMON MORENO Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
REMOVABLE COVER
LOWER SHELF (V)
NOTCH THE SHELVES (K) and slide them into place. Screw through the shelf rails (H) into the shelves. Support the front of the shelves with metal brackets.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2000
75
water garden & stream

by Spike Carlsen
woods or a fountain in the heart of downtown, few things rival the sight and sound of moving water. Its relaxing, mesmerizing, contemplative. Well, you dont have to pack up the family and drive for hours for that experience. You can create your own water garden, complete with babbling brook, in your own back yard. Well show you how to create a water gardenwithout spending a fortune or your entire summer doing it. Preformed shells, rubber liners and off-theshelf pumps and lters put the projects costs and skill requirements within easy reach of any do-it-yourselfer. Youll put in your share of sweat equity busting sod and hauling stone. But when youre done, youll have a landscape feature to enjoy for years. Heres the story.
Preformed shells and ready-to-go pumps make pond building simple. Moving 5 tons of stone well, thats another matter!
hether its a stream in the middle of the
32
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2002
33
Water garden & stream
WATER GARDENS no two are the same

ince every yard and homeowner is different, every water garden is unique. Yours can be large or small, simple or complex. There are two basic ways to create a water garden. The rst is to use a exible rubber-like liner made of EPDM, the same material used for at commercial roofs. Using this method, you dig the shape and size pond you want, then line the hole with a sheet of this heavy-duty material. Homeowners who want to dive into water gardening in a big way choose this exible liner; they can create large, deep ponds that can hold many, and many varieties of, sh and plants. For information on building this type of pond, see Do-it-Yourself Water Garden, June 00, p. 118. To order a copy, see p. 116. We elected to go the other route by using preformed rigid shells or liners. (Actually, we joined two shells with a small stream made from the exible liner mentioned above.) The shells we used are constructed of heavy-duty polyethylene, but you can also get ones made from berglass and other materials. Most shells have built-in ledges for plants and dont require as much planning and ground preparation as the exible liners. Shells do limit your design to the shapes available, but linking several together increases your options. For a water garden of small to moderate size, shells offer a lot of convenience. Preformed shells come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Our garden center stocked a dozen shells ranging in size from a 4-gallon mini pond to the 210-gallon buttery-shaped shell we used. It could special-order dozens of other shells as well. You can buy shells
with or without spillways, the molded lips that allow water to ow from one pond to another. You can even buy preformed streams and waterfalls for connecting a series of ponds. You can install a single pond, cascade a series of ponds down a hillside, plunk one in the middle of a patio or use one as a focus for a small retreat in a corner of your back yard.
FILTER
PLANT LEDGE PROP ROCKS PUMP TO GFCIPROTECTED OUTLET
CAPSTONE LIP SUPPORT STONE CIRCULATING HOSE
34
WATER OUTLET
SPILLWAY
LO CATION, location, location

EPDM RUBBER LINER
PREFORMED SHELL
COARSE SAND
FIG. A
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS OF PONDS AND STREAM
WATER IS DRAWN through the filter by the pump, then pushed through the circulating hose to the upper pond.
e elected to nestle our water garden into an existing ower bed about 20 ft. from the house. But remember, a water garden is a living thingit makes noise, attracts wildlife and requires upkeep. Locate it where you can best appreciate it. And remember that you have neighbors, too. Our experts gave us a few tips on positioning water gardens: 1. Select a location that receives four hours or more of direct sun a day if you plan on including aquatic plants. 2. Make certain the area has good drainage. Locate the pond away from the bottom of steep slopes so debris, fertilizers and pesticides dont run into your pond. If youre connecting two ponds with a stream like we did, make sure you have an adequate slope. Position your pond so runoff ows downhill and away from any houses. 3. A lot of literature warns against positioning your pond under or near trees. But hey, this is the real world! If you wind up situating the pond in a
treed area, expect to spend more time plucking out leaves, needles and branches before they decompose. And watch out for roots as you dig. 4. Think safety. Building codes in most areas are nebulous about water gardens. Most communities dont require barriers or fences, but ask before you dig in. Otherwise, let common sense rule. If there are freerange toddlers in the neighborhood, consider building a barrier around your yard or pond. 5. Call your utility companies and have them mark out the path of all underground wires, cable and pipe. Their locations may very well require you to change your game plan. Digging into an underground wire or pipe can be expensive and dangerous even deadly. Remember, moving water isnt just for looks; it keeps the water ltered and aerated and helps prevent stagnation. If you install just a single pond, plan on including a pump, lter and fountain to keep the water circulating and fresh.
35
PREFORMED LINER WITH SPILLWAY
POSITION AND ADJUST the preformed liners or shells until you find a design that fits the site and your tastes. Keep the shells away from steep downhill slopes where debris and lawn chemicals could run into them.
INSTALL the pond shells
B
"BUTTERFLY" PREFORMED LINER
LEDGES
6" BEYOND EDGE OF POND
DIG a hole 6 in. wider and 2 in. deeper than the liner. Mimic the shape and depth of the shell, including the ledges. Test-fit the shell frequently to ensure a solid fit.
3
COARSE SAND
SPREAD a layer of coarse sand to protect the bottom of the liner and the ledges from sharp rocks. Sand also makes the leveling process easier.
LEVEL the liner in every direction. Make certain the bottom and ledges are resting solidly on sand. Use a level on a long, straight 2x4 to level lengthwise.
efore making any purchases, get copies of the literature showing the size and shape of the shells your supplier has available. Select a few models, then use a garden hose to create a rough footprint of where theyd go and how theyd connect. We settled on the 210-gallon Buttery pond (about $300) from Atlantic Water Gardens for the lower pond and the 165-gallon St. Lawrence pond with spillway (about $190) from MacCourt. See Buyers Guide, p. 45, for more information. Once youve obtained your shells, position them (Photo 1), then use a shovel to trench an outline 6 in. larger than the ponds. Remove the shells and dig (Photo 2) the hole for the lower pond. You need to create a hole that will support the bottom of the shell as well as the ledges. Lower the shell into the hole frequently to check the depth, shape and position of shell and ledges. Dig the hole about 2 in. deeper than the intended nal elevation because the sand base youll spread next will raise it back up (Fig. A). Make certain the lip of the shell will be at least 2 in. above the surrounding soil or else dirt and muddy rainwater may ow in. Next spread and level a 2-in. layer of coarse sand over the bottom of the hole (Photo 3). Set the shell in place and check everything out. Does the sand fully support the bottom? Is the shell level (Photo 4) in every direction? Is the lip at least 2 in. above the surrounding soil? Are the edges of any ledges supported? If the answer to all these questions is yes, you can start backlling the pond.
36
BACKFILL around the liner with a 50/50 mix of sand and soil at the same rate water is filling it. Compact the soil and sand as you place it. Fully support the ledges when the backfill reaches that level.
Tip
LEDGE RUN WATER IN POND WHILE BACKFILLING
Use the level of the water in the shell as a guide for ne-tuning the height of the ledges; the ledges are exible enough to lift or lower an inch or so to maintain a level perimeter.
COMPACT SAND AND SOIL AROUND LINER
TUCK CORRUGATED HOSE UNDER LIP ON LINER
TUCK the hose connecting the upper and lower ponds under the lip of the shell. Continue to extend and protect the hose from kinks and pinches as you do the stonework around both ponds.
POSITION the upper liner, again first digging an oversize hole, then placing it on a layer of sand to protect it. Make sure to provide a sufficient change in elevation so theres a strong, positive flow from upper to lower pond.
Fill the pond with 2 to 3 in. of water, then check the shell for level again. This is critical; the water in your pond will be level, so if the shell is tilted, the water line will show it! Pack a mixture of half sand and half soil around the base of the pond as you ll it with more water (Photo 5). Be sure to pack sand under the ledges before the water
reaches them; theyre imsy and need support. Once we had the lower pond backlled within about 8 in. of the top, we tucked the corrugated hose under the lip of the shell (Photo 6). This hose is used to recirculate water from the pump in the lower pond to the mouth at the far end of the upper pond.
38
Dig the hole for the upper shell, then level it and line it with sand as you did the lower shell. Make sure you have an adequate height difference (Photo 7) for your falls and stream. If youre building on a slope, you may be able to bury the entire upper shell. Our site was atter, so we used stone, sand and soil to partially build up around the shell.
CAPSTONES OVERHANG LIP ON LINER SUPPORT STONES LEVEL WITH LIP OF LINER
BUILD UP the edges with stone

INSTALL the flagstone. Set the first support layer of stone level with the lip of the liner. Overhang the second cap layer of stone to cover and disguise the lip of the liner.
BUILD UP EDGES OF SPILLWAY
PLANTER
CANAL WALL
SUPPORT OVERHANGING PARTS OF LINER
ESTABLISH DOWNHILL SLOPE FROM SPILLWAY TO LOWER POND
CONTINUE to add stone to support the ledges of the upper pond. Create the walls and base of the canal leading to the lower pond at the same time. The planter area creates a stable surround as well as a more natural-looking transition between upper and lower ponds.
10
SPREAD a layer of sand in the stone canal, sloping it toward the lower pond. Continue packing and leveling the sand to create a solid stream bed.
ou can disguise the lip of your liner with overhanging plants, stone or a combination of both. We primarily used stacked agstone. Spread a 1- to 2-in. layer of sand around the lower pond, then set a layer of agstone so the upper surface is level with the lip of the shell (Photo 8). This allows you to cantilever the second layer of capstones over the lip of the pond without them weighing directly on the lip. Theres no exact science to the stonework part of this project. Use the ugliest, most irregular stones for
the rst support layer, since you wont see them anyway. Select and install capstones that conform to the shape of the pond edge. We built and rebuilt the stone layers around the bottom pond several times before we found a pattern we liked. Once you have the lower pond surrounded with stone, build your way up and around the upper pond. Start with a wide stone base around the upper pond. This will allow you to lay a slightly sloped, stable wall as you build up to the lip. Solidly support the ledges of the pond with
40
rock and soil when you reach them. We created a small rock planter (Photo 9) that stepped up to the upper pond and helped make a more natural-looking transition. While youre doing the stonework around the upper pond, snake the free end of the corrugated hose (Photo 6) to the far end of the upper pond. Bury it and cover it within the rocks, but dont pinch it. Extend the free end of the hose so it discharges into the far end of the upper pond, then secure and disguise the hose with cap rocks.
BUILD a lazy river

e created a small stream from the spillway of the upper pond to the lower pond. We began by building a small canal out of stone (Photo 10), then sloped a layer of sand across the bottom. We then laid the rubber liner into the canal (Photo 11), draped the excess liner up and over the walls of the canal, then added another layer of stone to disguise it. Make sure the canal is deep enough to prevent water from escaping. Support the liner and curve it up and behind the spillway to contain the water. Make certain the other end drapes well into the lower pond. Use water from a garden hose to test the slope and ow of your little river as you build it. Again, dont expect to get everything right the rst time. Building with irregular stone isnt the same as building with at, square wood. Use small stone chips to shim and stabilize larger stones as you work. Once youre satised with the design and watertightness of your stream, use pond foam (a black, weatherresistant expanding foam available through your pond dealer) to secure thin stone to the top and face of the spillway to disguise it (Photo 12). We added smooth stones to the bottom of the stream to hide the liner and create a more natural-looking ow. Continue adding stone up and around the upper pond and upper pond lip.
60-MIL EPDM LINER
1 1
LAY the rubber liner in place, draping it over the sides of the canal wall and into the lower pond. Tuck the liner up and behind the upper spillway. Use water from a garden hose to test flow and watertightness as you work.
ALL THE RIGHT STUFF

If you want a long-lasting water garden, keep these buying tips in mind:
I POND FOAM I
12
USING special pond foam, attach thin layers of stone to conceal the plastic spillway. Complete the stonework around the upper pond.
Some pond shells are imsy and more likely to ex under the pressure of heavy backll or freezing, expanding soil. Do some comparison shopping before you buy. Both manufacturers listed in our Buyers Guide (p. 45) offer sturdy shells. Buy the thickest EPDM rubber liner you can nd. It commonly comes in 40-mil and heavier-duty 60-mil thicknesses. Invest in heavy-duty hose for circulating the water. Once its buried, its hard to make repairs. The corrugated version we found was quite crush resistant. Pump size is based on the desired ow rate, plus the height and distance it needs to push the water. Read the manufacturers guidelines; when in doubt, opt for the larger pump. Order excess agstone. Youll be better off nding shapes that t than doing a lot of cutting. You can use any leftover material to build a path or a garden border.
42
13
CONNECT the filter, pump and hose. Place the lower pond pump and the upper pond inlet hose as far from each other as possible. This will help ensure a more thorough water filtration and minimize stagnation. Keep a careful eye on the water level for several days to make sure there are no leaks or clogs.
FILTER
PUMP
OOPS!
While we were photographing the cover, someone stood on a sharp rock in the spillway, creating a pinhole tear in the liner. We didnt discover this slow leak until several days later. The pump in the lower pond kept circulating the water, but hour by hour, water leaked through this small cut, and less water was making its way back to the lower pond. Eventually it nearly went dry. If we hadnt caught it, we would have burned out the pump and most likely killed the owers and sh. Water loss from even dinky leaks or splashes adds up fast.
PUMPS, fountains and wildlife
TFH plus
Find out more about aquatic plants and fish for your pond at www.familyhandyman.com.
Buyers Guide
Water garden supplies can be found at many large garden centers. Three manufacturers: ATLANTIC WATER GARDENS: (609) 9278972. www.atlanticwatergardens.com. Lawn ponds, lters, skimmers and accessories. BECKETT CORP.: (888) 232-5388. www.beckettpumps.com. MacCOURT: (800) 552-5473. www.maccourt.com. Preformed lawn ponds.
f your ponds are full of sand, rock bits and other construction debris, siphon, pump or use a big wet-dry vacuum to remove the water and rell the ponds with fresh water. Connect the lter and pump to your water circulating line so the water is drawn through the lter before it reaches the pump (Photo 13). We added a T-tting to our pump so we could circulate water to the upper pond and to a small statue beside the lower pond. Set the lter on a few small rocks so it doesnt rest directly on the bottom where its more likely to become clogged with debris. Plug in your pump, then keep an eye on water levels and ow to make sure everything is functioning properly
and there are no leaks. (See Ask Handyman, Nov. 01, p. 8, for information on installing outdoor receptacles. To order a copy, see p. 116.) Pay attention to the pump and lter literature for maintenance information. Keep the upper end of the hose out of the upper pond to prevent a possible siphoning effect. Maintaining clean water and establishing aquatic plants and sh are complex topics we wont even pretend to address here. Sufce it to say, understanding the dynamics of your pond and doing proper maintenance will make the difference between a pond youll want to linger around for hours and one youll want to ll in with dirt and plant with petunias in a few years. See For More Information, below.

I Pools, Ponds and Waterways,
Dawn Grinstain, Grove Press, 1992. www.suttonbooks.com

I The Complete Pond Builder, Helen Nash,
Sterling, 1996. barnesandnoble.com
Art Direction HOPE FAY Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration DOUG OUDEKERK Consultant CHARLIE ROBINSON
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2002
45
Do-it-Yourself
Water
water plants waterfall
concealed pump & lter
118
JUNE 2000 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
This is a completely updated version of a popular story rst run in the July/Aug. 95 issue of The Family Handyman.
Garden
by Jeff Timm
Put a little piece of paradise ...

. . . right in your own back yard.
free-form pond liner landscaping rocks
HERES SOMETHING SOOTHING about the scent, sound and sight of water, something that washes away stress and strain. While you cant stop by the French Riviera or Walden Pond after a hectic day of work, you can have a private oasis waiting for you at home, complete with gurgling water and colorful sh.
In this story, well walk you through the basic steps for building a backyard pond. Roll up your sleevesits mostly muscle work. Theres no need for precise measurements, no unforgiving blueprint to follow, and no deadlines. Working like beavers, you and anyone else with a strong back could probably nish a large pond in a couple of weekends. But that would take the fun out of it. Give yourself plenty of time and creating a pond will be almost as relaxing as sitting beside it.
ITS THE HARDWARE, NOT THE SIZE, THAT AFFECTS COSTS

You can install a basic 10 x 16-ft. pond with a goodquality liner and high-efciency pump, complete with rocks and gravel, for less than $1,000. For an additional $500, you can add the convenience of a ltration system, which will reduce your weekly maintenance chores. Larger ponds wont cost a whole lot more; youve already made most of your investment in pumps and lters.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JUNE 2000
119
water garden
HOLDING POOL
WATERFALL/ STREAM AREA
POND AREA
CIRCULATION PIPE ROUTE
PUMP CONTAINER LOCATION
GARDEN HOSE
LAY OUT A GARDEN HOSE to establish approximate pond borders, adjusting and readjusting until youre satisfied with the shape of the pond. Then dig out the pond bed, terracing both shallow and deeper areas for plants. Exposed rocks, tree roots and anything else that might puncture the liner must be removed from the hole.
CAREFUL PLANNING PREVENTS A SLEW OF TROUBLE LATER ON

Digging out a pond hole is grunt work, not an intellectual endeavor. Still, it requires some planning. Before you grab your shovel, roughly map out the shape, desired plant shelves (Photo 2), and the pump and waterfall locations. Here are some more key considerations: I Select a location where you can readily enjoy your pond, close to a patio or visible from a window. Dont stick your pond in the back corner of your yard where only the squirrels will enjoy it. I You can locate your pond in most any area of your yard as long as it doesnt receive runoff from rainfall. You dont want lawn and garden chemicals washing into your pond. As a rule, the more sun the better, but
Use a tablet-style fertilizer pressed into the soil around your nearby landscape plantings so the nutrients dont leach into the water.
dont discount a shadier spot. Just stay away from the area inside the canopy of your trees, the drip line. If you locate your pond near trees, be prepared to clean leaves from the pond more often. Most water plants prefer sun, but some can survive in shade. Choose hardier plants and fertilize more often if you select a shaded site. I A toddler can drown in the smallest pond, so some building codes require fences around ponds 18 in. deep and deeper. Call your local Department of Inspections, explain that youre building a water garden (not a swimming pool) and ask what rules apply. But if you have young kids, consider installing a fence around it anyway. Be sure to choose a fence that cannot be climbed. I MANDATORY: Before you dig, call your utility company and ask to have someone come out and mark your property for buried utilities. Utility companies usually wont mark private lines, that is, lines added for convenience, such as a power line from a house to the garage or a gas
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line to an outdoor grill. Turn off the power or gas to these areas if you suspect a line is in the vicinity of your digging.
Use the excavated dirt to berm up around your pond or build up your waterfall area. It will save you the hassle of having it hauled away or running it around your yard in a wheelbarrow.
Oversize your pond if possible. Once you stock it with sh and plants, youll be surprised how much smaller itll look. Besides, a large pond is often easier to take care of than a small one. (Controlling algae is often easier with a large pond.) The additional expense is minimal. A 10 x 16-ft. size is a good starting point. I Water circulation is important, so position the pump as far as possible from the water inlet (waterfall, stream or fountain). I Digging even a small pond is a big job. Plan plenty of breaks or enlist the
I
water garden
neighborhood teenagers to help you out for a day. I To power the pump, youll need an outdoor electrical outlet (Fig. A). Have a licensed electrician install a GFCI-protected outlet, or see For More Information, p. 129, to install one yourself.
KEEP IT SIMPLE CHOOSE A FLEXIBLE LINER

Were using a exible liner made of a synthetic rubber called EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer). The liner is economical, durable and easy to install. You can create almost any shape and it adapts well to most site conditions. Flexible plastic liners are also available. Theyre made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and HDPE (high-density polyethylenes). These liners arent as exible as rubber liners. Plastic liners are often used on large holding ponds when economy is a concern and exibility is not. The
Before you start digging, lay on the ground the water circulation pipe that goes from the pump to the waterfall. Throw the excavated soil on top of it. This will save you the work of digging a trench to bury the pipe.
preformed liners found at many home and garden centers are less desirable. These are essentially large plastic or berglass tubs. At rst glance, these seem easier to install, but this usually isnt the case. Preformed liners can be difcult to handle and level and, when lined with rocks and boulders, arent as forgiving as exible ones.
GUIDELINES FOR PURCHASING A LINER

Most professionals use a 45-mil EPDM liner. (A mil is a thousandth of an inch.) Its strong, yet exible enough to handle easily (Photo 5). I If you plan to have sh, make sure your liner is stamped sh-safe. Roofers often use a type of EPDM thats been treated with chemicals that can harm sh. I Purchase your liner in one single sheet, large enough to cover the entire pond bottom and sides. Liners are commonly cut and sold from 100-ft. rolls with 10- to 20-ft. widths; you can custom-order liners up to
I
LOW SPOT BUILT UP
STRAIGHT 2x4
LEVEL HIGH SPOT CUT DOWN PLANT SHELVES
ESTABLISH THE POND BORDERS by setting a level on a board long enough to span the hole. Make the banks level by building up low spots or cutting down high spots.
MEASURE THE DEPTH OF THE HOLE and plant shelves, keeping in mind that the water level will be a few inches below the banks of the pond. Fish require a section at least 18 in. deep.
MEASURING TAPE MAX. DEPTH OF HOLE PLANT SHELVES
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LINE THE POND BED with a 1/2-in. layer of newspapers. The newspaper helps prevent liner punctures and will eventually decompose and form a clay-like layer. You can also use the special pond underlayment thats available at your pond supply dealer. It costs about $3 per square yard.
LAY IN THE LINER so it loosely conforms to the contours of the hole. Dont worry about folds and ripples; theyll flatten out when you add water. Put rocks on one side to hold the liner in place while you adjust the other. Any excess material can be trimmed off with scissors or a utility knife after the pond is full of water and encircled with rocks.
EPDM LINER
Fig. A Pond features
SPILLWAY
LARGE ROCK
FLEXIBLE PLASTIC PIPE FROM PUMP
PIPE
FOUNTAIN HOLDING POOL LINER
LINE SIDES WITH BOULDERS
PUMP CONTAINER
LINE THE POND SIDES with boulders and set in the pump container. Wash down the rocks after theyre in place and then empty the pond with your pump. For large rocks, lay a scrap piece of liner slightly smaller than the rock on top of the pond liner before positioning the rock. This helps prevent punctures.
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LINER
Keep my pond balanced and clean!
water garden
MAKE YOUR POND HOSPITABLE TO PLANTS AND FISH
A pond is just a hole lled with water. Add plants and it becomes a water garden. Add sh and your pond comes alive. Youve got an entire aquatic ecosystem right in your back yard. Here are a few things to keep in mind when planning for plants and sh. I Before adding plants or sh to your newly lled pond, wait a week for the chemicals in the tap water to neutralize. To accelerate the process, you can add a dechlorinator to the water. Consult your water garden supplier for more info on this chemical. I Anchor plants in pots or baskets designed for aquatic plants. A third option is to place the roots of each plant in root balls, a mix of gravel and soil in nylon stockings tied with soldering wire (Fig. A). Root balls are cheaper than pots or baskets and are easier to move. They also keep sh from disturbing the soil. Mistake: Dont use standard potting soil in your pond. The high nutrient content encourages algae growth. Ordinary garden soil is just ne. I If you plan to stock your pond with sh, part of it must be at least 18 in. deep. If you plan to leave your sh in year-round, keep a spot open in the pond by running an aerator or fountain all winter. If your climate is so cold that the pond still freezes, purchase a oating heater (less than $50). Keeping your pond open provides needed oxygen for the sh and allows gases to escape. I For convenience, leave hardy water plants in all winter. Bring tropicals or water plants from warmer plant zones inside for the winter. See For More Information for storage techniques. I Fish, like teenagers, need their space. One inch of sh for every square foot of pond surface is a good rule of thumb. For example, a 4-in. sh needs 4 sq. ft. of pond surface. I Hardy shgoldsh for exampledont require much attention. You dont even need to feed them once theyre established, as long as your pond isnt overstocked. Hardy ones can survive by eating insects and the plant life in your pond. They actually help keep your pond clean. If you plan to stock your pond with more exotic species, youll have to do
I
GFCI-PROTECTED OUTLET
45 ft. wide. Liners can be spliced if necessary, but it involves more work and provides an opportunity for a leak. If your waterfall or stream requires extra length, use a separate piece of liner. You dont need to glue the two liners together as long as the stream or waterfall liner is higher than the water level of the pond. I Calculate the dimensions of the liner by measuring the maximum length and the maximum width of your pond, then add three times the depth measurement to each dimension. Better a bit big than a bit small.
SHALLOW-WATER PLANTS
WATERFALL
WATER LILIES UNDERWATER PLANTS
4"-6"
6"-10" 18"-24"
COVER LINER WITH 1-1/2" TO 24" DIA. ROCKS AND BOULDERS
FLEXIBLE PLASTIC PIPE RUNS TO WATERFALL
SHELVES FOR VARIOUS PLANT TYPES 1/2" LAYER OF NEWSPAPER
PUMP CONTAINER
SUBMERSIBLE PUMP
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2000
127
Simplify maintenance with a skimmer and lter

KEEPING YOUR POND CLEAN isnt difficult; once you get it down itll be as routine as taking a bath. Your pond has two sources of pollution: debris that falls or blows into the water and algae. Pick up leaves and other wind-blown debris with a fine-mesh net. The type used for skimming swimming pools works great. Skim daily to prevent the material from sinking to the bottom, decomposing and creat Fine-mesh net ing sludge. An easier but more expensive way to clean out this debris is with an automatic skimmer system, kind of a dishwasher for your pond. Once you have one, you cant imagine pond life without it. A skimmer system works off the inow of your pump. Water is drawn through a tub containing a mesh bag that collects leaves, paper and other debris. The system bags it for youall you have to do is empty the bag about once a week. The frequency will depend on the time of year, the amount of wind and the number of trees in your area. Its easiest to install a skimmer system when you build your pond. If you Skimmer and lter system decide to add it later, youll PIPE TO PUMP have to WATER INLET ASSEMBLY (WATERFALL) drain your pond, dig a hole and readjust the liner. (See the Buyers Guide for manufacturers of skimmers.) Skimmers cost $200 and up. The second threat to a clean pond is algae, microscopic plants thatll turn your pond green. A small amount of algae is benecial, but large amounts can have your pond looking like the swamp monster scene from Scooby-Doo. Keep algae at bay by limitWATER PASSES OVER ing nutrients and sunlight. ROCK INTO POND Here are some tips to do this:
WATER PASSES THROUGH MESH FILTER BACTERIA GROWS ON LAVA ROCK FILTER CONTAINER OUTSIDE OF POND AND BURIED IN SOIL PIPE FROM PUMP TO BOTTOM OF FILTER POND LINER
Filter system
ADDITIONAL LAVA ROCK PLACED IN FILTER
FILTER
OVERFLOW PIPE IF WATER GETS TOO HIGH SKIMMER CONTAINER BURIED IN SOIL OUTSIDE POND
SKIMMER INLET DRAWS WATER INTO CONTAINER
FAKE ROCK LID HIDES SKIMMER
POND LINER GRAVEL
I Shade the surface of the pond with water plants such as lilies. A good rule of thumb is to cover one-third of the surface with plants. I Install a variety of plants. Plants consume nutrients from sh waste and decomposing matter in your pond, stealing the food algae need to live. I Keep debris out of the water. As debris decomposes, it releases nutrients into the water. I Dont overstock your pond with sh. Too many sh will release more nutrients than the plants and bacteria can consume, leaving food for algae. I Dont overfeed your sh. Food not consumed by the sh provides nutrients for algae. I As a further measure, biological and mechanical lters are available from your pond supplier for $200 and up (photo above). They take a lot of guesswork out of keeping a balanced, clean and clear pond. Once you establish a biological balance in your pond, maintenance is minimal. A thorough annual cleaning (draining and rinsing out the pond) and periodic maintenance (keeping debris out) are all thats required. Your pond may still go through a green phase in early spring, but it wont last long if your pond is balanced. Buy your materials from a reputable source and the staff will offer lots of advice to help you overcome any obstacles you might encounter.
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water garden
more to ensure their survival. We recommend reading the books listed in For More Information. soon make up for the higher price tag. Place your pump in a pump container to keep it from clogging with leaves or debris. Either buy one from your pond dealer, install the pump in a skimmer container, or make one from a sturdy garbage can peppered with 1/4-in. holes (Photo 6). Dont be shy about drilling holes. The more water you allow through the can, the better.
Art Direction MELANIE HAUBRICH Photography MIKE KRIVIT Illustration BILL REYNOLDS Consultants MARK DANELSKI, POND MASTERS WATERFEATURES
KEEP YOUR POND HEALTHY MAKE WATER FALL

Its important for water to circulate and aerate throughout the pond. Buying a $10 fountain head and connecting it to the end of the water circulation pipe is the easiest way to accomplish this. To control waters The most dramatic way to frustrating tendency circulate and aerate water in your pond is to construct a to ow invisibly waterfall and stream. Install a under or between stream bed liner the same way rocks instead of as for your pond. Begin by digpleasantly over ging a holding pool. The pool them, ll hidden keeps water from spraying out of the circulation pipe and passages with allows it to spill lazily into the expanding foam sealant. Its available pond. Next, dig the course for the water to ow in. Two feet at hardware stores wide is a good dimension. Lay for about $6 a can. the liner in place, overlapping the pond liner by at least 6 in. Creating an attractive water ow will take some trialand-error adjustments of the rocks. But this is the fun part. Dont mortar your rocks in place. The mortar looks unnatural and makes it difcult to move rocks around to get the desired effect.
FOR MORE INFORMATION

Installing an Outdoor Electrical Outlet, July/Aug. 92, p. 50. If your pond will be close to your house, you may be able to plug your pump into an exterior outlet. This article tells you how to add one the easy way. I How to Run Electrical Lines Underground, Oct. 97, p. 51. How to run a switched outlet from your house to anywhere in your yard. For information on how to order back issues, copies of articles or the Five Year Index, please see p. 160.
I
The Water Garden by Anthony Paul and Yvonne Rees (Penguin Books, $19.95) contains design ideas and an extensive guide to water plants. Its available at bookstores. I The National Pond Society. (800) 742-4701. The NPS provides information on ponds and publishes a magazine called Pondscapes. www.pondscapes.com.
I
HOW TO CHOOSE A 24-HOUR-PER-DAY PUMP

Buy a pump thatll turn over the ponds entire volume once per hour. To size your pump, calculate the approximate volume in your pond: Multiply the length (ft.) x the width (ft.) x the averHigh-efciency pumps cost age depth (ft.) and more but last longer and multiply by the conversion factor of 7.48. are less expensive to run. Also note the height and distance the pump needs to move the water between the pump and the water inlet. With these gures in hand, consult your pump supplier for the pump size and circulation pipe diameter for your pond. (See Buyers Guide for pump sources.) Once youve determined the pump size, decide whether to buy a high- or low-efficiency pump. Highefficiency pumps cost more but last longer and are less expensive to run. Since your pond pump will run 24 hours a day, seven days a week, the lower utility bills will
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
BUYERS GUIDE
Youll nd pond supplies at some lawn and garden stores and home centers. For stores that carry a wide range of supplies and offer professional advice, look under Landscape Supplies and Equipment in the Yellow Pages. AQUASCAPE DESIGNS INC.: (513) 357-0123. A wholesale distributor of pond supplies, skimmers and lters. Its Web site, www.aquascapes.com, can direct you to a retail distributor in your area. BECKETT CORP.: Dept. TFH, 5931 Campus Circle Drive, Irving, TX 75063-2606; (888) 232-5388. Pump supplier. www.beckettpumps.com HEDBURG AGGREGATES: Dept. TFH, 4375 170th St. W., Farmington, MN 55024; (651) 423-5048. A retail distributor of pond supplies. LILYPONS WATERGARDENS: Dept. TFH, 6800 Lilypons Road, P.O. Box 10, Buckeyestown, MD 21717; (800) 999-5459. POND FILTRATION INC.: Dept. TFH, 11551 Rupp Drive, Burnsville, MN 55337; (800) 882-5327. www.pondltration.com
JUNE 2000
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36
MAY 20 03 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Peaceful
GARDEN POND and DECK

Like the sound of running water? Add this easy-to-build pond and easy-care deck to your garden
re you in need of a little serenity? A reflecting pond is just the place to rest your gaze after a trying day. The one we chose for this issue is unique, not only in appearance, but also in building technique. Most ponds are free-form, informal shapes that have either soft or hard plastic liners dug into the ground. But for ours, we used simple wood walls to frame it and form the base for the surrounding deck. A single-piece rubber liner keeps the water in. And the garden berm that surrounds one end is practical as well as a nice landscaping feature. We simply mounded the soil dug from the pond hole so we wouldnt have to haul it away. This pond isnt exactly a weekend project. In fact, even if youre in great shape, you should expect to spend the better part of a long day just digging the hole and laying in the gravel footings. The good news is that the construction is simple and doesnt require a bunch of expensive tools. The only power tools youll need are a circular saw, a screw gun and possibly a plate joiner (or biscuit joiner; Photo 16) for the boardwalk. The techniques we show are simple to master.
by Travis Larson
37
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MAY 20 03
Garden deck and pond

How much will it cost?
You can spend as much as $3,000 if you build the Full Monty version we show, featuring a state-of-the-art filtration system, expensive exotic decking and concealed fasteners. In fact, we spent about $1,200 just on the hardwood decking (called Ipe; more on this later), including a 14-ft. long boardwalk that connects the pond to a nearby patio. We spent $1,450 more on the pond filtration kit. Keep in mind that garden ponds are notoriously difficult to keep clean; we wanted an almost no-maintenance system. But you can do this project for less than $1,000 by using standard decking materials and skipping the filtration system altogether (see Buy a Biofilter, or Drain and Scrub, p. 50).
Size: Our 4 x 8-ft. pond is surround-
Planning the project

The first step in planning your pond is to determine its size, depth and location.
ed by a 30-in. wide boardwalk so it encompasses an area about 8 x 12 ft. Your pond can be virtually any size or shape youd like. The basic how-to steps on footings, wall framing and boardwalk will work for almost any layout you choose. Just make sure you select a pond liner and liner pad thatll fit. Determine the liner and pad size by adding the height of both walls to the bottom dimensions plus 2 ft. for both the length and the width. Be aware that fitting the liner and building the boardwalk will be more complicated if you choose an exotic pond shape like a T. Pond depth: A 3-ft. depth allows deeper water plants like water lilies to thrive and protects pond fish from predators. CAUTION: Ponds are drowning hazards for children. This design is especially hazardous because the overhanging boardwalk makes climbing out difficult. If children have
TROPICAL HARDWOOD DECKING AND SLUICE
access to your yard, build a fence with a lockable gate around the pond. Whatever depth you choose, make sure the tops of the pond walls stand above the surrounding grade at least 5 in. and at most 10 in. so the boardwalk footing design will work with your pond. Its smart to dig the hole,
BERM GOES HERE
OUTSIDE OF POND WALLS
EXCAVATION LINE
6"
Mark the outside perimeter of the pond walls and then stake the corners and string lines about 6 in. outside the pond walls. Use a garden hose to mark the berm shape and location, then mark beneath the string and outside the hose with landscaping paint.
38

Figure A A Pond Assembly Figure Pond Assembly
8' 11"
Story Number Story NamePond Assembly IssueMay EditorTravis Pond Materials Larson List Art DirectorMarcia Roepke LENGTH 2/16/03 QTY. MATERIAL Tech Art Version2F
Pond wall and deck framing (all treated): Footing plates 2x6 2x6 2x4 2x4 2x4 Studs/cant strip 2x4 4x8 8' 10' 10' 8' 10' 8' 2 1 6 2 1 15 3
2x6 TREATED FOOTING PLATES 4' 9"
DIG HOLE 42" DEEP AND 6" WIDER AND LONGER THAN POND
2x4 WALLS
Side wall plates End wall plates
FOOTING PLATE DIAGRAM

2x4 TIE PLATE; OVERLAP AT CORNERS
N ' 7" E
ALL DW
GTH LEN
45 CANT STRIP, CUT FROM 2x4
3/4" plywood
Footings and f ill (including boardwalk f ill): 3/4" gravel Sand 2.5 yds. 5 yds.
8'
3" DECK SCREW POND LINER 3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD (4' LENGTH)
9"
SI
DE W AL
LL
EN
GT
3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD (8' LENGTH) LINER PAD (4' WIDTH, OVERLAP AT BOTTOM) LINER PAD 2" SAND BED; ROUND UP AGAINST WALL
2x4 TOP PLATE SKIMMER FLANGE
SKIMMER BASKET SKIMMER FLANGE POND LINER FILL GAPS WITH SAND 2x4 x 36" STUDS, 16" O.C. 2x4 BOTTOM PLATE 2x6 FOOTING PLATES 4" GRAVEL BED
EXCAVATE FOR SKIMMER BASKET
WALL SECTION AT SKIMMER
FRAME OPENING TO FIT SKIMMER (SEE TEXT)
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MAY 20 03
39
Dig a hole about 4 in. deeper than your desired pond depth, then fill the bottom with 4 in. of gravel. Drive 2x2 stakes in the middle of the wall positions at each corner and drive them down slightly below the top of the gravel. Choose one of the stakes as your benchmark and level across to the tops of the others with a 4-ft. level and straight 2x4, driving them down until theyre all even.
PLYWOOD SCREED BOARD
BENCHMARK STAKE STRAIGHT LEVELING BOARD
Lay a straight 2x4 across the tops of the stakes and drag a plywood screed board across the gravel to level the footing for the walls. Notch the screed board to loosely fit over the 2x4. If there are low spots, scrape in extra gravel and screed again.
SCREED BOARD 2x4 ENDS REST ON STAKE
1-3/4" x 3-1/2" SLOT
then pour in the gravel base and measure to grade to determine the final stud height. Location: For this pond design, you should have an area in your yard that has less than 8 in. of grade change over the footprint of the pond and boardwalk. To help pick a location, lay out a garden hose that outlines the boardwalk.Youll be surprised at just how large an area it encompasses, especially when you include room for the berm. Overhanging trees will retard water plant growth and drop lots of leaves in the water, so its best to avoid them if possible. Once youre satisfied with the location, use our technique of laying out the pond hole and berm position. Then use stakes and strings and upside down marking paint to prepare for excavation (Photo 1). Winterizing: If you live in a freezing climate, youll have to drain the pond halfway and remove the pump. Fish and some plants wont make it through the winter.You may have to bring them inside.
BERM
Digging the hole

After marking the pond and berm with spray paint, throw the excavated dirt into the berm perimeter.Youll be able to sculpture the berms final shape and size as you excavate. We suggest digging the hole only 1 ft. larger than the pond walls to minimize digging and the amount of gravel fill needed against the pond walls (Photo 10). But in loose soils, the hole walls may begin caving in and you may have to dig a larger hole. Dont let the hole sit for days on end before you set up the pond walls because the sides will eventually collapse, especially if it rains. (Ask me how I know this!) Choose the highest grade point to determine digging depth and dig down 32 in. from that point. That way
2x6 FOOTING PLATES WALK AS YOU POUND
Cut the treated 2x6 footing plates to length, then lay them on the gravel and toenail the ends together with 16d nails. Stand on the footing plates and settle them into the gravel by pounding on them with another 2x6. Settle the entire perimeter by walking along it as you pound.
40
Cut the 2x4 studs and plates to length (follow Figure A for dimensions). Assemble the pond walls as shown by nailing the studs to the plates with two galvanized 16d nails at each end.
BOTTOM PLATE
TOP PLATE
SIDE WALL
the 36-in. high pond lip will still be several inches above grade after you add the gravel footing. Use any type of clean gravel or sand for the 4-in. deep pond footing and base. The finer the gravel, the easier it is to level. Just roughly level the gravel with a steel rake, then follow the simple method we show using stakes and a screed board to level the gravel footings directly under the walls (Photos 2 and 3). If your soil is sand, only dig a 38-in. deep hole, skip the gravel and use the sand for the footings, liner base and backfill.
Treated wood walls
Center the walls on the footing plates and tack the corner studs together with a 16d galvanized box nail. Square the walls by measuring opposite corners diagonally and shifting the walls until the measurements match, then nail the tie plates to the top plates with two 16d nails spaced every 12 in. and four more nails in the ends as shown. Predrill three evenly spaced 3/16-in. holes and bolt the corners together with 1/4 x 3-in. lag screws.
OVERLAP PLATE TOP PLATE
TIE PLATE
We recommend ground contact (.40 retention) treated wood for the wall, footings and deck framing. If foundation-grade lumber (.60 retention) is available at the lumberyard, choose it for all the below-grade materials and the pond structure will last virtually forever. Use double hot-dipped galvanized nails for fastening the framing but screw the plywood to the inside with deck screws. Nails could work their way out and puncture the liner. Note that each layer of pond wall plates overlaps the one below it (Figure A). Thats to spread the load over a larger area, help tie everything together and even out slight inconsistencies in heights.
Cut the 3/4-in. treated plywood to size and fasten it to the wall studs with 2-in. deck screws spaced every 6 in. Then rip and cut to length 45-degree 2x2 cant strips and screw them to the inside corners with 3-in. deck screws. Finally, spread a level 2-in. layer of sand on the floor of the pond, banking the edges up the walls a couple of inches.
Installing the liner and the liner pad

45-DEGREE CANT STRIP
ADD 2" OF SAND AND BANK IT AGAINST WALLS
SKIMMER OPENING
The liner pad protects the rubber liner from being punctured by sharp stones and rough framing surfaces. Before you install the liner pad, carefully inspect the walls and take care of protruding fastener heads, splinters or sharp stones that could work their way through and puncture the waterproof pond liner. Its easiest to install the liner pad by cutting a separate piece slightly larger than the bottom and then cutting separate pieces for the sides. They hang over
42
Adjust the skimmer until its centered over the opening and even with the top edge of the pond wall. Use gravel to elevate or level the skimmer basket as necessary. Hold it in place with a few shovelfuls of gravel around the bottom. Center the pond liner over the pond and tuck it into the inside bottom edges of the pond walls. Fold over the corners as neatly as possible.
POND LINER
SKIMMER BASKET
the pond lip and drape over the walls (stapled to the outside), overlapping the bottom liner.You can cut up the liner pad as much as you need to as long as you overlap the pieces. Keep pleats and folds to a minimum and the pond liner will fit better. We spread out the pond liner on the grass and roughly cut it to size with a utility knife before dragging it over the pond and pushing it into position. Its easy to catch it on sharp objects and puncture it, so be careful. Slip out of your shoes and work in your socks when standing on top of the liner and fitting it against the walls. The key to a good-looking job is neat corner pleats, so spend some time on careful folds. After filling the pond with water, tack the liner around the outside with roofing nails and cut off the excess.
Customizing the skimmer and biofilter

The skimmer and biofilter (see Buy a Biofilter, or Drain and Scrub, p. 50) need customizing to work in your particular pond. First of all, youll have to measure the width of the skimmer inlet, including the skimmer flange (Photo 9). Custom-size the wall opening to fit your skimmer opening. We recommend making it about 4 in. wider than the skimmer flange to accommodate folding the liner
CUT 1-1/2" INSIDE OF TRACING
SKIMMER FLANGE
SKIMMER OPENING
FILL VOIDS BEHIND WITH SAND
Press the liner against the skimmer and trace the opening onto the liner with a felt-tip marker (leave plenty of slack at the bottom to allow for settling when you add the water). Draw an opening 1-1/2 in. smaller than the tracing on all four sides, using a 2x4 spacer block. That allows the flange to overlap the rubber for a good seal. Then cut out the opening with a scissors. Caulk and screw the skimmer flange to the basket.
44
10
Fill the pond with the garden hose, backfilling the pond walls with gravel at the same rate as the water fills the pond. Stop filling when the water flows into and fills the skimmer basket.
Dig the skimmer and biofilter basket holes deeper than needed and fine-tune the bottom heights by adding gravel. Its easier to level than soil.
TIP
PACK SAND BETWEEN LINER AND SKIMMER BASKET
24
11
Dig the hole for the biofilter basket. Center it in the middle of the pond wall. Add or remove gravel to adjust the basket to make the top level in both directions. Do the same to make the bottom of the spillway opening level with the top of the pond walls. Then dig the trench for the water line.
PVC VALVE
CENTER LINE
SPILLWAY OPENING
LEVEL BOTH WAYS AND WITH POND
BIOFILTER BASKET
12
Pull the biofilter basket out of the hole and attach the water line following the manufacturers directions. Then lower the basket back into the hole and check the placement and exact height again before backfilling around the basket.
through the wall and screwing it to the skimmer basket. The opening height isnt too important, since the basket sits outside the wall. After the liner is clamped to the skimmer, fill the space between the wall opening and the liner with sand to support the liner against the pressure of the water (Figure A). The pumps that come with the kits are generally powerful enough to drive a sizable waterfall over the lip on the biofilter. To throttle down the water flow to the trickle needed for the sluice, buy a separate PVC valve to fit in the hose leading from the skimmer to the biofilter (Photo 11). But simply replacing the kit pump with a smaller one may make more sense because itll cost less to run. Buy a pump that lifts water 6 ft. (itll say on the back of the pump box) and a smaller hose that fits the pump outlet and is long enough to reach from the skimmer to the biofilter. Drill holes above the water lines of both the skimmer and the biofilter baskets for threading the hose through and connecting the new pump. The water line in the biofilter must run all the way to the bottom of the biofilter so the water can flow up through the filtration system. Keep the larger pump for draining the pond when necessary. Our biofilter came with a separate lip that functions as a spillway or built-in waterfall. We discarded the lip and cut a replacement spillway out of decking and then cut a slot to receive the sluice (Figure B and Photo 20). The replacement spillway is then caulked and screwed into the biofilter spillway opening and the sluice is sealed in the slot with silicone caulk.
Under the boardwalk

Dig the shallow 24-in. wide boardwalk footings before the pond is filled with water and backfilled with gravel. That way you can pour gravel against the
46
13
Cut 2x4 pond deck ledgers to fit as shown, then space them 1-1/2 in. above the pond walls using a 2x4 block as a guide. Tack them to the tie plate with a few 3-in. deck screws. Then bolt them to the tie plates with 1/4 x 3-in. lag screws spaced every 18 in. Bore 1-in. dia. countersink holes in the ledgers at the ends of the pond so the lag screwheads are just below the face of the 2x4s. Screw a 2x2 block to the top of the wall in front of the skimmer basket for the access panel support.
2x4 SPACER BLOCK 2x4 POND LEDGER 2x2 SUPPORT BLOCK
1/4" x 3" COUNTERSUNK LAG SCREWS
3" DECK SCREWS
14
Bolt outrigger joists to the pond ledgers, projecting the ends 16-1/2 in. past the pond ledgers. Cut two 4x4s 33 in. longer than the side pond ledger boards, then center them on the pond and slide them under the ledger ends. Cut the end 4x4s to fit between the side 4x4s and nestle them into the gravel until theyre flush with the tops of the side 4x4s.
FLUSH WITH ENDS
2x4 OUTRIGGER JOISTS
pond walls and fill the footings at the same time (Photo 10). But if you have crumbly soil, its best to dig the footings after the pond is backfilled to keep soil from caving in against the walls. The footing depth should be about 10 in. below the pond rim everywhere. If the terrain is slightly sloped, the 4-in. deep gravel footing will slope as well. Dont worry about the slight slope; just try to rake out obvious humps for a consistent surface. After you place and roughly grade the 4-in. deep gravel, its just a matter of nestling the 4x4 grade beams into the gravel the correct distance away from the wall (Photo 14). They dont have to be perfectly level, just fully supported by the gravel.Youll be able to make the fine adjustments when you attach the 2x6 grade beam ledgers to the 4x4 grade beams.
Ipe decking and invisible fasteners

Our boardwalk is made of a tropical hardwood named Ipe. (See New Products, April 03, p. 119. To order a copy, see p. 9.) At twice the price of 5/4 x 6 standard decking cedar or about the same price as clear cedar, its not for everyone. Because the wood we chose is so clear and beautiful, we decided to use an invisible fastening system called EB-TY (see Buyers Guide, p. 52) so unsightly screw- or nailheads wouldnt mar the appearance. If you dont want to use this system, stainless steel trim head screws would be another good option. The EB-TY system is a variation of standard plate joinery with plastic biscuits substituted for wooden ones.Youll need a plate joiner ($50 to $150) to cut the slots into the decking edges for the biscuits. Then you slip the plastic biscuits into the slots and screw them into the joists with the stainless steel screws included
END 4x4 GRADE BEAM SIDE 4x4 GRADE BEAM
15
Cut the beam ledgers to length and fasten them to the 4x4 grade beams. Keep the top edges even with the pond ledgers (they will be level). Bolt them to the grade beams. Note: If your site is sloped, a 2x6 may not reach high enough. You may have to use 2x8s or even 2x10s on some of the low sides. We had to use 2x8s along one side and one end wall.
PVC VALVE NAIL FLUSH WITH TOP OF EXTENSION JOISTS NOTCH AS NECESSARY
2x8 GRADE BEAM LEDGER
2x6 GRADE BEAM LEDGER
48
Garden reflecting pond

Figure B Deck assembly
Figure B Deck
2x6 END GRADE BEAM LEDGER 2x4 OUTRIGGER JOIST 4x4 END GRADE BEAM C L 2x4 END POND LEDGER 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" NOTCHES IN LEDGERS FOR SLUICE (CENTERED)
5' LONG SLUICE
BIOFILTER BASKET
5/4x6 x 32" DECKBOARDS CENTER OF POND
CAULK SLUICE INTO NOTCH
C L ACCESS PANEL INSTALL CENTER BOARD FIRST 2x4 SIDE POND LEDGER 16-1/2" 4x4 SIDE GRADE BEAM 2x6 SIDE GRADE BEAM LEDGER 2x4 OUTRIGGER JOIST 2x6 END GRADE BEAM LEDGER 15" CUT GRADE BEAM AND POND LEDGERS TO FIT SKIMMER BASKET 2x2 SUPPORT
ADD BLOCKING IF NEEDED (PHOTO 19)
2x2s
5/4x6 x 32" DECKBOARDS 4x4 END GRADE BEAM
BISCUIT ONE END OF PANEL ONLY
BISCUITS SCREWED INTO LEDGERS 2x6 GRADE BEAM LEDGER 2x4 POND LEDGER
Deck Materials List
4x4 GRADE BEAM
1/4 x 3" LAG SCREWS 18" O.C.
1-1/2" POND WALL
4" GRAVEL
SECTION AT SIDES
Story Number Decking 5/4 x 6 8' 23 Story NameFormal Garden Pond Deck Hardw are: Galv. 16d box nails 2 lbs. IssueMay 3" deck screws 2 lbs. EditorTravis Larson 2" deck screws 1 lb. Art1/4 DirectorMarcia Roepke x 3" lag screws with washers 40 EB-TY deck fasteners 200 Tech Art Version2F 3/16/03
Boardwalk framing (all treated): Side grade beams End grade beams Side pond ledgers End pond ledgers 4x4 4x4 2x4 2x4 2x4 2x6 2x6 2x2 12' 8' 10' 10' 10' 12' 10' 8' 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 1
MATERIAL
LENGTH
QTY.
2-1/2" 5-1/2"
END OF SLUICE 1" ABOVE POND LIP
REPLACEMENT SPILLWAY
POND LIP
BIOFILTER BASKET
Outrigger joists Side grade beam ledgers End grade beam ledgers Access panel framing
SECTION THROUGH SLUICE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MAY 20 03
49
16
Lay a 32-in. deck board in place (Photo 18). It should extend about 4 in. over the pond edge. Mark the board at the centers of the pond ledger, grade beams ledger and about 3 in. from the pond end. Use the board as a pattern to mark biscuit placement points on both edges of other deck boards. Cut No. 20 biscuit slots on the adjoining edges.
Buy a biofilter, or drain and scrub

You have a decision to make about how much time you want to spend caring for your pond. We purchased a pond kit (see Buyers Guide, p. 52) that included the liner pad, liner, pump, hose, skimmer and biofilter for about $1,400. You can also purchase all the parts separately over the Internet or at larger garden centers. The biofilter contains bacteria that cleanse the water of the nutrients that feed pond-choking algae. The system is reasonably easy to install and keeps your pond clean and balanced. The kit makes the pond virtually maintenance free. Heres how the system works: Water flows from the pond into the skimmer where mesh catches larger debris. At the bottom of the skimmer, a pump sends the water to the biofilter, where it rises through the filter. Now clean, the water flows out the basket to run down the sluice and back into the pond. For a cheap alternative to the biofilter system, drain the pond a few times during the summer with a sump pump and scrub the algae from the bottom and sides. Refill the pond with fresh water. Fish waste will accelerate algae growth, so youll reduce the work by banning fish from your pond. Youll still have to buy the liner pad, the liner and a small pump if you want to put in a sluice. The pump can rest on the bottom of the pond with a water line leading under the boardwalk to the top of the sluice. Take care to choose a pump that can lift water at least 6 ft.
PLATE JOINER
BISCUIT ALIGNMENT MARKS ON BOTH SIDES
5-1/2" WIDE SLUICE SLOT
STAINLESS STEEL SCREW
INSTALL FROM MIDDLE TO ENDS
EB-TY FASTENER
CENTER OF POND
EB-TY FASTENERS
17
Center the first board on the long side and fasten it. (Were using special EB-TY fasteners.) Center and cut a 5-1/2 in. wide notch on the biofilter-side pond ledgers and grade beam ledgers even with the pond lip. Starting on the side opposite the biofilter, center and fasten the middle deck board. Install the deck boards in both directions until theyre about 4 to 5 in. from the ends of the pond. On the biofilter side, start the decking on both sides of the slot.
50

with the kit. Biscuits are also added to the deck boards overhanging the pond but are not secured to any joists. They further support the overhang and keep the decking aligned. Deck boards that arent biscuited to neighboring boards need to be face screwed.
PVC VALVE
BIOFILTER
SLUICE SLOT
RESTING ON POND LIP USE 2x4 TO ALIGN ENDS WITH EDGES
How Do I Run Underground Cable? Ask Handyman, Nov. 01, p. 8. To order a copy, see p. 9.
Buyers Guide
TEMPORARY SCREWS
Deck fasteners: EB-TY. (888) 438-3289. www.ebty.com Pond supplies: ePONDS: (866) 620-6088. www.eponds.com
AQUASCAPE DESIGNS:
18
Cut two 23-in. long 2x2s for the access panel deck. Temporarily screw one to the grade beam ledger directly above the skimmer with 3-in. deck screws and lay one on the pond lip as shown. Center and fasten the four access panel deck boards to the 2x2s. Temporarily remove the outrigger joist (Figure B) if necessary to install blocking near the deck splice, then replace it before completing the decking.
www.aquascapedesigns.com
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON Pond Consultant GAYLE FLEMING, FLEMING LANDSCAPE DESIGN
1" ABOVE POND RIM
SKIMMER ACCESS PANEL SLUICE SILICONE CAULK
20
JOIN ENDS TO EDGES
19
Install the rest of the decking boards on both sides of the access panel. Join the ends of decking to the edges of decking running the opposite direction with EB-TY biscuits to keep everything aligned and flat. Snap lines along the edges of the deck and trim the perimeter with a circular saw for straight edges.
52
Rip a 5-ft. long deck board for the two sides (see Figure B), then caulk and screw it to the sides of another 5-ft. long deck board to form the sluice. Cut a length of decking to fit the width of the biofilter spillway. Clamp it in place and use a level to mark the sluice slot. The bottom of the slot should be 1 in. higher than the pond rim. Remove the board, cut the slot, then caulk and screw the board to the biofilter. Attach the sluice to the opening with silicone.
G E T R E A DY F O R S U M M E R !
Garden fountain
Cast this fountain in a weekend with a few bags of concrete and some hardware odds and ends
by Jeff Gorton
his little fountain, modeled after an old millstone, is the perfect size to tuck into a spot near your patio or kitchen window. There you can enjoy the sound of water trickling over river stones and watch the birds and butterflies that come to bathe and drink. Well show you how to build this fountain using bagged concrete mix and common construction materials. You can build the sheet metal forms and pour the concrete in less than a day. The next day, you can finish up by removing the forms, burying the tub, and assembling the concrete fountain and the pump.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN APRIL 20 03
31
Garden fountain
18"
CONCRETE WHEEL 3-1/4" WIDE
CONCRETE COLUMN
1/2" COPPER PIPE
5/8" O.D. PLASTIC TUBING HOSE CLAMP 1/4" HARDWARE CLOTH TIE WIRE
3/8" REBAR
FOUNTAIN PUMP 2" LAYER OF SAND 1/2" TO 3/8" REDUCER PLASTIC TUB
5"
1-1/2" THICK CONCRETE
Figure A Fountain details
With the increased popularity of water gardens, many home centers now stock fountain pumps and plastic liner tubs. We purchased a pump with a flow rate of 130 gallons per hour and a maximum pumping height of 4.5 ft. Make sure the pump you buy has similar specifications.You can substitute any large plastic container for the 7-in. deep tub we used as long as its at least 26 in. wide. Fifteen-inch deep plastic whiskey barrel liners work well. The increased depth calls for a little
32
extra digging, but you wont have to refill the fountain as often. Increase the height of the concrete column to compensate for the extra depth. For Internet and mail- order pump sources, see the Buyers Guide on p. 44. The total cost of the materials, including a $30 pump and $20 plastic liner, is about $100 (see the Materials List, p. 44). In addition to basic tools, youll need a plastic tub or wheelbarrow and a hoe for mixing concrete, and a steel trowel to finish the top of the wheel.
APRIL 20 03 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Garden fountain
FOAM SILL SEALER
DOUBLEFACED CARPET TAPE 5/8" HOLE 5/8" SPADE BIT
3/4" PLYWOOD METAL FLASHING
1/2" SHEET METAL SCREWS
Draw an 18-in. diameter circle on 3/4-in. plywood. Saw it out with a jigsaw. Drill a 5/8-in. hole in the center. Cut a 60-in. length of 4-in. wide galvanized metal flashing. Run a strip of double-faced carpet tape along the top and bottom edge. Then wrap the flashing around the plywood circle.
Drive 1/2-in. sheet metal screws through the flashing at 8-in. intervals to secure it to the plywood. Line the flashing with a 60-in. length of foam sill sealer. To make a flush seam, cut through both thicknesses of foam with a utility knife where they overlap.
Solid forms are the first step to a successful concrete pour

When you build the forms for the concrete, take care to cut the plywood circle accurately and wrap the metal tightly around it (Photo 1). The double-faced tape holds the band of sheet metal to the plywood disc while you screw it in place. We lined the metal with foam sill sealer to create the ridges you see on the outside of the wheel.You can customize the wheel to your liking by substituting seashells, rope or other decorative items for the sill sealer. Attach them to the metal with hot-melt glue or doublefaced tape. We made the form for the column by snipping one locking edge and the end from an 8-in. round duct and rolling it into a 5-in. diameter cylinder (Photo 4). Allow the extra sheet metal to overlap. Complete the form by assembling and installing the copper pipe and taping the whole thing together with duct tape (Photo 5). Dont forget to coat the inside of the forms, including the short copper pipe, with oil to prevent the concrete from sticking. We used a
34
TRIM FLUSH COPPER PIPE ROPE CAULK CAULK IS 3/4" FROM FOAM
Insert a 4-in. length of 1/2-in. copper pipe into the hole and hold it in place with a wrap of rope caulk. Press a double-wide bead of rope caulk in a circle around the bottom of the form about 3/4 in. away from the foam liner. Trim the foam flush with the top of the metal.
Garden fountain
5" COUPLER
CUT OFF LOCKING EDGE 20" CUT OFF TOP 5/8" SPADE BIT 3-1/2" 5" END CAP
1/2" COPPER
TWO-PART EPOXY 5" COUPLING TUBING CUTTER
5" END CAP DUCT TAPE 1/2" TO 3/8" REDUCER
Cut a 20-in. length of 8-in. round metal duct with a tin snips. Then cut the locking edge from the length of the duct. Drill a 5/8-in. hole in about the center of the sheet, 3-1/2 in. from the bottom edge.
Coil the duct with the remaining locking edge to the outside and slip it inside the 5-in. end cap and 5-in. coupler to form a cylinder. Wrap the cylinder with three layers of duct tape to secure it (see next photo). Cut 20-in. and 4-in. lengths of 1/2-in. copper pipe and join them as shown with epoxy. Slip the assembled pipe into the cylinder. Reinstall the pipe and glue a 1/2- to 3/8-in. reducer to the short pipe that exits through the side of the form. Hold the pipe in place with duct tape.
6
WATER MIXED CONCRETE
Coat the entire inside surface of both forms with a layer of oil (spray lubricant is easy to apply). Mix 1-1/2 bags of concrete mix to form a stiff, not runny, batch. Mix with a hoe for at least five minutes. Fill the tall cylinder while holding the pipe in the center. Tap the outside with a scrap of wood to settle the concrete and release trapped air. Fill the foam-lined top half-full. Lay 12-in. lengths of 3/8-in. reinforcing bar (rebar) in a ticktack-toe pattern on top of the concrete. Continue adding concrete until its flush to the top of the form.
FORM FOR TOP COLUMN FORM
heavy layer of WD-40. The band of rope caulk in the bottom of the form creates a recess in the concrete that directs the water to drip from the edges, rather than run under the wheel.
Strong concrete mix has just the right amount of water

SPRAY LUBRICANT 12" LENGTH OF 3/8" REBAR
Too little water and the concrete mix will be stiff and unworkable. Too much water results in weak concrete prone to cracking and breaking. Start by dumping 1-1/2 bags of concrete mix into a wheelbarrow or plastic mixing tub. Then measure out the amount of water
36
Garden fountain
WOOD BLOCK
FIRM CONCRETE
TAP ON PLYWOOD BOTTOM
Settle the concrete and remove trapped air by tapping the bottom of the form with a hammer. Add concrete if necessary to fill the form. Continue tapping and circling for about two minutes.
Let the concrete harden until the water on the surface has soaked in or evaporated and your thumb pressed into the surface just barely leaves an indentation. Then rub a block of wood in a circular motion over the surface to bring a layer of soupy cement and sand to the surface.
recommended on the bag and add it slowly while mixing the concrete with a hoe. Check for the proper consistency by making a trench with the hoe. The concrete should stand up on both sides of the trench. If it sags and fills the trench, its too wet. Add more dry powder to make a stiffer mix. It should be about the consistency of potato salad. It takes a little more effort to get this thick concrete mix to settle into the forms. The trick is to tap on the outside of the forms after theyre filled with concrete (Photo 7). Tapping eliminates air pockets that would otherwise show up as holes in the concrete surface. After filling and tapping the forms, you have to let the concrete harden for a while before smoothing the top surface (Photos 8 and 9). The length of time will vary between 45 minutes and three or four hours depending on the weather and other factors. The concrete is ready when the surface water is gone and you can barely indent the surface with your thumb. Smoothing the top surface requires two steps: floating and troweling. Float the surface
STEEL TROWEL
Smooth the soupy layer of cement with a steel trowel. Let the concrete harden overnight.
CAUTION
Wear long rubber gloves and safety glasses when youre working with concrete. Wet concrete can seriously burn bare skin.
38
Garden fountain
HOLE FOR FOUNTAIN
SAND
WIRE
PLASTIC TUB
3/8" REBAR
HARDENED CONCRETE
10
Remove the sheet metal screws and unwrap the concrete wheel. Carefully place the wheel upside down on the bucket and remove the plywood. Protect the top surface by placing strips of foam between the bucket and concrete. Grab the copper pipe with a locking pliers or pipe wrench and twist and pull to remove it from the concrete. Remove the metal form from the tall cylinder.
11
by rubbing the concrete in a circular motion with a block of wood (Photo 8) until a thin layer of soupy, rock-free cement covers the surface. Next, flatten and smooth the surface with a steel trowel (Photo 9). Remove the forms after the concrete has set up for at least 12 hours. If you dont plan to assemble the fountain immediately, cover the column and wheel with plastic and store them in a shady spot until youre ready. Otherwise, keep the fountain running for at least a week to keep the concrete wet while it cures. Photos 11 14 show how to assemble the fountain and connect the pump. Use a hacksaw to cut the rebar to length. Be very careful when youre working with the hardware cloththe cut edges have razor-sharp points. Wear leather gloves and bend all cut edges down before you install the cover over the tub. Dont cover the hardware cloth with stones until youve filled the tub with water and tested the pump. To avoid the risk of electrical shock, make sure the circuit you plug the pump into is GFCI protected.
Continued on p. 43
Lay 30-in. lengths of rebar over the plastic tub to create a 5-in. square opening in the center for the conDRILL crete column. Drill two small HOLES holes through the tub at the THROUGH TUB end of each rebar and secure the rebar with twists of wire. Leave the end of one rebar loose until the column is in position. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the tub plus a 2-in. deep layer of sand.
TWIST WIRE
PACK WITH BLOCK
1-1/2 " DEEP CONCRETE TWISTED WIRE
12
Level the sand base and set the tub in place. Pack dirt around it to the bottom of the rim. Set the column in place and use a level to make sure the sides are vertical and the flat area on top is level. Pour a 1-1/2 in. layer of concrete into the bottom of the liner to stabilize the column. Let the concrete set overnight.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 20 03
41
Garden fountain
1/4" GALVANIZED HARDWARE CLOTH
FOUNTAIN PUMP 5/8" O.D. PLASTIC TUBE HOSE CLAMP
DRIP GROOVE HOSE CLAMP
POLYURETHANE CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE
13
Cut a square of 1/4-in. hardware cloth 4 in. larger than the diameter of the tub and bend down a 2-in. lip all around to form a mesh cover. Leave an extra inch of mesh when you cut the opening shown and bend it around the rebar to hide the sharp edges. Cut another small rectangle of hardware cloth to cover the opening. Connect the pump to the copper pipe with 5/8-in. plastic tube and hose clamps.
14
Place a bead of polyurethane construction adhesive around the top of the column and lower the concrete wheel over the copper pipe. Check the top with a level and shim between the column and wheel if necessary to level the top surface. Use strips cut from plastic bottles for shims. Continued on p. 44
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 20 03
43
Garden fountain
Fountains require a little maintenance
Keep the tub full of water. If it dries up while the pump is running, it will ruin the pump. Check the intake grate or screen on the pump occasionally and remove leaves and debris. If you live in a cold climate, drain the fountain in the fall. Then clean out the liner and store the pump inside for the winter.
Materials List
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
Square of 3/4-in. plywood, minimum size of 18 x 18 in. 5-ft. length of 4-in. wide sheet metal flashing Roll of double-faced carpet tape 5-ft. length of ribbed foam sill sealer (cut from roll) Twenty 1/2-in. sheet metal screws 5-in. round duct cap 5-in. round duct coupling 2-ft. length of 8-in. round metal duct Duct tape 2-ft. length of 1/2-in. copper pipe 1/2 in. copper elbow 1/2- to 3/8-in. copper reducer Two-part epoxy (five-minute type) Roll of rope caulk 16 ft. of 3/8-in. steel rebar 4 ft. of 14- or 16-gauge wire 3 ft. of 5/8-in. outside diameter (O.D.) plastic tubing Two hose clamps for above tubing Pump Two 60-lb. or 80-lb. bags of concrete mix 36 x 36-in. square of 1/4-in. galvanized hardware cloth 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 in. dia. river rock to cover hardware cloth Plastic tub
Buyers Guide
BECKETT CORP.: (888) 232-5388. www.888beckett.com.
The pump we used is a Beckett M130AUL16, which is available but isnt on the Web site. EPONDS.COM: (866) 620-6088. www.eponds.com. Water gardening supplies and equipment. MacCOURT: (800) 552-5473. www.maccourt.com. Whiskey barrel liners (to use for tub).
I I I I I
Art Direction HOPE FAY Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art DON MANNES
44
50
Spout
Bamboo garden
water
Make it from mail-order bamboo delivered right to your door by Travis Larson
f it seems like your storybook garden is still lacking something, the soothing sound of running water could be it. But you dont have to settle for some kitschy plastic-resin waterfall for the missing ambiance. The answer may be your own version of this Japanese sluice Project Facts made from real bamboo. Cost This simple weekend project $200 to $350 doesnt involve much skill or Time time. In fact, I built this ver1 to 2 days sion the same day we took Skill Level these photos. You too can nA novice can do it ish this project in a single day. Tools Add another day for installing Hacksaw, jigsaw, a small pond, pump and water 3-lb. maul, 4' level, drill plants to make this a weekend project. You dont have to be particularly handy or have a shop full of tools either. About the only tools youll need are a jigsaw for cutting in the spout hole (Photo 10), a maul for pounding in the support stakes (Photo 5) and a hacksaw for cutting the bamboo to length (Photo 3). More BAMBOO GARDEN
Sluices
Pond and recirculating pump
51
Bamboo water garden

Where to start and end it
If you already have a pond in your yard, you can use it as the catch basin for the sluice. If not, youll need to either install a small pond liner (about $30 at garden or home centers) or use an above-ground basin like a whiskey barrel or even a livestock trough. The best way to design and plan is to begin at the bottom and work your way away from the pond. Figure about a 6-in. slope on each 10- to 12-ft. bamboo sluice section. Gardens on gently sloping hills are best. If your hill has a steep slope, youll have to incorporate more of a zigzag design to mitigate the slope; otherwise, the water will ow too fast. The sluices on steep hills work the same way as switchback roads on a steep mountainside. Flat gardens will work too, but youll have to use ever-higher supports to create an articial slope. However, every time you add a support, the next sluice will be about 6 in. higher, so after just ve sections, the sluice rises 2-1/2 ft., plus the starting height. Choose sluice section lengths to suit your yard. Its strictly a whatlooks-best, seat-of-the-pants design method that develops as you build the system. Get an idea of routing and sluice lengths by laying out sections of bamboo on the ground rst (Photo 2). You may only need
LAY OUT the path of the sluice with lengths of split bamboo so the approximate slope of each is 6 to 12 in. every 10 ft. Vary lengths and angles to best fit your garden or yard. Overlap the bamboo as necessary to work out the best bamboo lengths.
KEEP LIP ABOVE GRADE
DIG the pond hole slightly oversized and set the pond liner on a 2-in. bed of sand in the hole. Keep the lip of the liner slightly above the surrounding soil to keep dirt from washing into the water. Fill around the liner with sand to support the sides.
4" SPLIT BAMBOO
1" CRUTCH MATERIAL
52
Bamboo water garden

LEAVE NODES INTACT BEHIND WATER INLET
NODE
APPROXIMATE 30-DEGREE ANGLE
CUT the discharge end of each sluice at about a 30-degree angle with a hacksaw. Cut off the uphill end a foot or so longer than where the next sluice will drain into it.
KNOCK OUT the nodes with the claw end of a hammer up to the point where the water will pour into the sluice. Leave the nodes intact above that point to keep water from draining out the back end especially important for low slopes (see Photo 7).
sections a couple of feet long to route around rocks or make hairpin turns, and then use half or full lengths for longer, straighter runs. As you assemble the sluices, work your way away from the pond; run water from the garden hose to check water ow (Photo 7). Thatll help you decide if the slopes are too steep or shallow and if you like the direction. Dont worry if you dont have the whole thing gured out ahead of timenothing is permanent. Mistakes are easily remedied by simply pulling the crutches (Photo 5) out of the ground and repositioning things.
MAULER
3-LB. MAUL
CRUTCH
Ordering bamboo is a snap

We ordered our bamboo from a company we found on the Internet called Bamboo Hardwoods. (See Buyers Guide, p. 59, for mail-order bamboo suppliers.) I made one call, used my credit card and the bamboo More BAMBOO GARDEN
NO. 8 COPPER WIRE
CUT the end off a 3-ft. length of 1-in. bamboo at an angle and drive it into the ground at a 45- to 60-degree angle. (Youll get the idea after the first one.) Lift the sluice to its approximate level to determine the correct crossing point for the second stake. Drive in the second pair of stakes at the top of the sluice using the same technique.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 2002
53
Bamboo water garden

was at the front door a week later. The company you order from will split (rip down the middle) the sluice pieces for you for a few bucks extra. For each sluice section, youll need a split 4-in. diameter piece and four 1-in. supports for the crutches. Although you can order shorter lengths, all the pieces typically come about 10 to 12 ft. long. If youre following a hill, youll get three crutch pieces out of one 10-ft. long, 1-in. diameter piece. But order more if youre creating your own hill with higher and higher crutches. For the fountain at the top of the hill, order a 4-ft. length of fully round 4-in. bamboo for the base and another 4-ft. long, 2-in. diameter piece for the spout. Thatll give you extra material in case you make a mistake. To get a rough idea of how many pieces and what diameter are needed, lay out the sluice path with a garden hose and measure each length. This sluice cost about $320 (including shipping) for all the bamboo materials in this project, with several extra pieces left over. Order a few extra to cover for miscalculations or mistakes. Also buy No. 8 bare copper grounding wire for wrapping each crutch (about 10 per foot at home centers). Figure on about 2 ft. of wire per crutch.
CRUTCH
CUT OFF 2 ft. of No. 8 copper wire and wrap the crutch legs tightly together with five or six tight windings.
NO. 8 COPPER WIRE
Tricks for working with bamboo

Bamboo is as hard as a rock and itll dull the teeth of saw blades designed
DOWNHILL CRUTCH
More BAMBOO GARDEN
TEST FLOW
LEAVE NODES ABOVE INCOMING WATER
DRIVE the downhill crutch of the next sluice into the ground. Use a garden hose to check the water flow for positioning the uphill crutch. Continue working your way up the hill with the rest of the sluices and crutches.
54
Bamboo water garden
BOTTOM OF SPOUT BASE
12 "
2" SPOUT
2" PVC PIPE (FOR SUPPORTING SPOUT BASE) BASE SUPPORT
CUT the top off a 4-in. full diameter length of bamboo just above a node (so water wont collect in the top; Photo 12). Then measure and cut off a length for the spout base thats 12 in. longer than the height of the last sluice. Knock out all the lower nodes with a piece of 2-in. PVC pipe.
CUT a 45-degree angle on the bottom of the PVC and drive it about 8 in. into the ground just behind the last sluice (Photo 8). Slip the spout base over the PVC pipe and trace around a 12-in. length of 2-in. bamboo to mark the hole for the spout.
for wood. But hacksaws are built to cut metal and theyll make short work of bamboo cuts. When bamboo is fully round, its susceptible to splitting as it dries. Because the sluices are already split, they should stand up for years. But fully round, larger diameter parts like the spout are likely to split fairly soon. You can prevent it by wrapping several coils of copper wire tightly around the pieces. The wire will also hold split pieces together. Use the same wire to hold the crutches together after the supports are pounded into the ground. If you need to move a crutch after its been wrapped, you can pull the whole assembly out of More BAMBOO GARDEN
10
56
DRILL a 3/8-in. pilot hole and cut out the spout hole with a jigsaw fitted with a fine-tooth blade. Shave the hole edges with a sharp utility knife until the spout fits snugly into the hole.
Bamboo water garden

LEAVE TOP NODE INTACT 2" SPOUT
PINCH VALVE
SPOUT
2" PVC PINCH VALVE DRYWALL SCREWS
11
DRILL a 1-in. hole near the bottom and thread the water line up through the bottom hole and out through the spout hole.
12
SLIP the spout base over the PVC pipe and screw it to the PVC with a couple of 2-in. drywall screws. Slide the spout into the base.
the ground and pound it in by slightly scissoring it closed and pounding both sides into the ground. The crutch will reopen as it sets.
Two tips for making it last

Bamboo is naturally durable but here are two tips to help it last even longer. After the projects completed and tested, let it dry and coat all the surfaces with a clear, exterior oilbased sealer. (Run the fountain a few days and change the water before placing any water plants.) And if you live in a cold climate, store the sluice sections out of the weather during the winter.
A+B= PUMP HEIGHT CAPACITY
13
ESTIMATE the overall rise by sighting along the top of a 4-ft. level to get an eyeball benchmark up the hill. The benchmark can be a stone or a stick or whatever. Then go up the hill and repeat the sighting from that benchmark until you reach the fountain height. The distance from your eye to your feet is what youll be adding to the benchmark-to-spout distances to get the overall rise.
58
Bamboo water garden
Sizing the pump

The determining factor in getting the right pump isnt how big it is or how much water it will pump, but rather how high it will lift the water. Once the sluice is in and the fountains built at the top of the sluice, youll need to measure the overall elevation rise from the pumps position in the pond to the top of the fountain (Photo 13). Thats how high the pump has to lift the water. When you go to a nursery or home center to buy a pond pump, look at the label on the box. Itll tell you the maximum height the pump will lift. Select the rst size that lifts higher than your measurements. Buy enough water line to comfortably reach Buyers Guide from the pump to the spout. Bamboo Hardwoods, Seattle, WA. A small pinch valve (Photo (800) 783-0557. www.bamboohardwoods.com Bamboo & Rattan Works, Lakewood, NJ. 12) on the hose before it (732) 370-0220. www.bambooandrattan.com enters the spout will let you Franks Cane & Rush Supply, Huntington Beach, adjust the water ow for the CA. (714) 847-0707. www.franksupply.com perfect garden ambiance.
PUMP
ELEVATE the pump by using the pond ledges or a couple of bricks to keep it up out of the sand and sludge. Plug the pump into a GFCI-protected outlet. Use stronger corrugated water lines if youre burying the line underground or are concealing it under heavy stones.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Design G. L. FLEMING, FLEMING DESIGN
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 2002
59
Woodworks
B Y B R U C E K I E F F E R
TILTING MIRROR STAND

Traditional styling with the elegance to stand on its own.
H eres a project thatll reflect well

on your workmanship as well as your self-image. The mirror tilts and can be tightened into position so you can see your entire body, from head to toe. The stand is made of solid walnut with a walnut stain. The stain evens out some minor color variations in the wood and darkens the piece, so if you prefer a lighter color, eliminate the stain or choose a wood like cherry or oak. Well show you some tricks for making the cap molding and the bullnosed inside frame moldings thatll also be useful when you build other projects. This mirror stand will take about 10 hours to build, and cost about $160.
78
DECEMBER/JANUARY 1996
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
FIG. A TILTING MIRROR STAND DETAILS

E
1/2" DIA. ROUND-OVER (SIDES AND FRONT) 1/2" 3/16" 3/16" RAD. NO. 6 x 2" DRYWALL SCREW
E
3/8" DIA. x 2" DOWEL PIN (8 REQD.)
NO. 6 x 2" DRYWALL SCREWS
C
GLUE AND CLAMP (TYPICAL)
NO. 4 x 1/2" PAN HEAD SHEET METAL SCREW (14 REQD.)
C
CORNER MIRROR RETAINER (4 REQD.)
F K
L
45 MITERS
CROSS SECTION AT TOP

SWIVEL MIRROR SCREW
NO. 4 x 1/2" PAN HEAD SHEET METAL SCREW INSERT MIRROR RETAINER
K
30"
A K
1/4" BRASS WASHER
M
MIRROR
STRAIGHT MIRROR RETAINER (6 REQD.)
3/8" DIA. HOLE (SEE TEXT)
3/16" 1/4" BRASS WASHER 3/16" x 15" x 54" MIRROR (CUT TO FIT OPENING) C L OF PIVOT
CROSS SECTION AT PIVOT

4-1/2" NOTE: CUT 1/2" OFF SCREW BEFORE INSTALLING 9/32" DIA. HOLE
SWIVEL MIRROR SCREW AND INSERT (2 REQD.)
1"
A
29-1/2"
GLUE INTO FRAME
38-1/4"
3/8" DIA. WOOD PLUGS
D
C L NO. 6 x 2" DRYWALL SCREWS
B J A B
NO. 6 x 2" DRYWALL SCREWS
G A B
5/32" DIA. HOLES; 3/8" DIA. x 1/4" DEEP COUNTERBORES
D
1/4" CLEARANCE SCRIBE J TO A
4-1/2" RAD. 1/2" DIA. ROUND-OVER (4 SIDES)
GRAIN DIRECTION 5"
J G
3"
4-1/2"
G H DETAIL AT BASE H
SIDEA PATTERN
Woodworks
USE a dowel hole drilling jig to drill the dowel holes so theyre straight and centered. Place a piece of masking tape on the drill bit to act as a depth stop flag.
1
DOWEL HOLE DRILLING JIG TOP RAIL (C)
HAND SCREW CLAMP
2
SIDES (A)
CROSS SUPPORT (B)
3" TALL ALIGNMENT BLOCKS
PLACE the cross support on two 3-in. tall blocks to align its height. Measure and align the cross support so its centered on the sides (A), then insert the screws.
Gather all the tools listed in the Tool List on p. 82 as well as your basic carpentry and layout tools. Be selective if you buy walnut lumber. Its expensive, and the quality varies greatly from board to board. The quantities in the Shopping List allow for about 30 percent waste. Youll need this extra wood for cutting around knots and other defects. If you dont own a thickness planer, have your lumberyard plane three of the walnut boards so theyre 1 in. thick, and the other one so its 3/4 in. thick. Then cut a 24-in long piece from the 3/4-in. thick board, and plane it to 1/2-in. thickness. You can cut the rest on your table saw. Buy the other materials listed in the Shopping List on p. 82, except for the mirror. Once youve assembled the mirror frame, take it to a local glass supplier and have them cut the mirror to fit your frame.
BEFORE YOU START
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
1. Cut the pieces A through M to the
80
dimensions given in the Cutting List on p. 82. 2. Lay out and drill the dowel holes in the top rail (C), bottom rail (D), and the stiles (F) (Photo 1). 3. Glue, dowel and clamp the mirror frames pieces (C, D and F) together making sure the frame is square. 4. Lay out and drill the holes in the sides of the stiles for the threaded inserts that come with the swivel mirror screws. Use your dowel hole drilling jig and a 3/8-in. dia. drill bit. The holes for the inserts will still be a little small, so wiggle the bit a little to enlarge the holes. Dont screw the inserts in yet. 5. Make a template of half of the shape of the side piece (A). Start by cutting a scrap piece of thin plywood or hardboard to 2-1/4 in. x 38-1/4 in. long. Transfer and enlarge the grid shapes (see Fig. A on p. 79) to your template piece and mark the hole locations too. Cut out the shapes and smooth the sawn edges with a bastard file and sandpaper. 6. Draw center lines from end to end
on one face of each side (A). Align your template to the center line and trace the shape. Flip the template over and trace the shape to the other side and mark the hole locations as well. Cut out the shapes with a band saw or jigsaw, then smooth the sawn edges with a bastard file and sandpaper. Drill the counterbored holes for the walnut plugs to cover the drywall screws that hold the cross support (B). Next, drill the clearance holes for the drywall screws, then the 9/32-in. dia. holes for the swivel mirror screws. 7. Finish-sand the mirror frame, cross support (B) and sides (A). Use an orbital sander, starting with 150-grit sandpaper, then 180-grit, and finish with 220-grit. Ease any sharp edges with 180-grit sandpaper. 8. Screw the sides to the cross support (Photo 2). 9. Using a 3/8-in. dia. plug cutter, cut four 3/8-in. long screw cover plugs from a piece of scrap walnut. Glue and hammer the plugs into their holes. After the glue is dry, make the plugs flush using a bastard file, and then sandpaper. 10. Lay out, countersink and drill the screw holes in the bases (G). Glue and clamp the feet (H) to the bases. Clean off any oozed-out glue with a paint scraper and chisel; sand the edges after the glue is dry. 11. To make it easier to attach the bases, draw the outlines of the bottoms of the sides onto the tops of the bases. Rout the 1/2-in. radius edges on the bases. Now youre ready to align and screw the bases in place (Photo 3).
HAND SCREW CLAMP
ALIGN OUTLINE AND BOTTOM OF SIDE
SCREW the bases to the bottoms of the sides. An easy way to align the pieces is to draw an outline of the sides bottom on the top of the bases.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Unscrew the bases, finish-sand them, then reattach them. 12. Make the cap molding (E) and the bullnose moldings (K and L). See Making the Moldings at right. 13. Lay out, countersink and drill the screw holes in the cap molding. Next, miter the ends of the bullnose moldings so they fit inside the mirror frame. Finish-sand the molded pieces, then screw the cap molding to the top of the mirror frame. Apply glue lightly to the outside edges of the bullnose moldings, then clamp them to the inside edges of the frame. 14. Lay out the four braces (see Fig. A) on piece J. Draw the 4-1/2 in. radius
MAKING THE MOLDINGS

Its usually best to rout the profiles on a larger piece of wood first, and then cut the moldings to their finished dimensions afterwards. This is easier than trying to rout the edges of narrow or thin pieces of wood. I also prefer to hand-hold my router, rather than use my router table. Its easier to control and theres less wood tear-out. I use my router table to shape smaller, less detailed moldings. The mirror stand moldings are made using both methods. Heres how theyre done. about tear-out because youll saw the back edge off later. Rout the 1/2-in. dia. roundedover front edge and the ends of the cap molding piece. Then, using your table saw, cut the width to 1-3/4 in., and then cut the thickness to 3/4 in. (Photo 4).
MAKING THE BULLNOSE MOLDINGS

The bullnose moldings (K and L) are made by routing both edges of pieces that are more than twice as wide as the finished moldings. This way two moldings can be made from each of the pieces K and L. Doing it this way is easier than routing the edges of narrow pieces. Set up your router table with a 3/16-in. dia. round-over bit. Rout both edges and both sides of pieces K and L (Photo 5). Using a table saw, cut the bullnose moldings to their finished widths of 11/16 in. Now go back to step 13 of the step-by-step instructions.
TIP
Instead of sanding excess glue in hard-to-reach corners, use a sharp chisel to clean off any oozed glue after the glue has partially dried.
MAKING THE CAP MOLDING

The cap molding (E) is made by routing the edge of a piece of wood thats 1/4 in. thicker and 1/4 in. wider than the moldings finished dimensions. The added thickness raises the router so the bottom of the router bit wont dig into your work table. The added width allows you to rout past the end without having to worry
curves using a large compass or a trammel point set. Start by cutting the curve, then smooth its sawn edge with a halfround bastard file and sandpaper. Then cut the brace to length. Do all four braces this way. 15. Scribe and trim the inside edges of the braces so they fit against the tapered sides (Photo 7). Trim off the scribe waste with a band saw or bastard file. Finish-sand the braces and ease the
exposed sharp edges. Apply glue lightly to the edges of the braces. Then press and align them against the sides and bases. Hold the braces in place for about a minute to allow the glue to
stick, or use masking tape to hold them in place. 16. Apply the stain and let it dry for 24 hours. Following the directions on the can, apply three coats of Danish oil fin-
PUSH STICK
FENCE
CAP MOLDING
ROUTER TABLE
GUARD REMOVED FOR PHOTOUSE YOURS

CUT the cap molding so its 3/4 in. thick. Do this after youve routed the rounded-over edges and cut the width to 1-3/4 in.
3/16" DIA. ROUND-OVER BIT
ROUT the edges of the bullnose molding pieces K and L using a router table and a 3/16-in. dia. roundover bit. Push the wood piece across the router table from right to left. Pushing at a slow, continuous rate will reduce tear-out and burning.
81
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Woodworks
ish to all the pieces except the back (M). Allow the last coat of Danish oil to dry for two days. 17. After the oil finish has dried, buy your mirror and set it in the frame. Set the back in the opening, and screw the mirror retainer clips in place. 18. Screw the mirror swivel screw threaded inserts into the holes in the sides of the mirror frame. I found that applying a little wax to the insert threads made it easier to screw them in.
TOOL LIST
Table saw with miter gauge Router with: router table and fence router pad 1/2" and 3/16" rad. round-over bits Band saw or jigsaw Hacksaw Cordless or electric drill No. 1 Phillips screwdriver or hex-shanked bit No. 2 Phillips screwdriver or hex-shanked bit Dowel hole drilling jig Orbital sander Drill bits: 1/16", 7/64", 5/32" and 9/32" twist bits 3/8" brad point bit countersink bit 3/8" dia. screw cover plug cutter Half-round bastard file Wood chisel Large compass or trammel points Clamps: two 24" long bar or pipe clamps eight 6" long bar clamps one 10" handscrew clamp
SHOPPING LIST
ITEM 1" x 6" x 8' walnut* 3/4" x 6" x 8' walnut* 1/4" x 15" x 54" scrap plywood 3/16" x 14-15/16" x 53-15/16" mirror No. 6 x 2" drywall screws No. 4 x 1/2" pan head sheet metal screws 3/8" x 2" hardwood spiral dowel pins** Polished brass swivel mirror screws** Mirror retainer clips (1/8" offset)** 1/4" brass flat washers Minwax No. 224 Special Walnut stain Danish oil finish *Finished thicknesses. **Available from The Woodworkers Store, Dept. TFH, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340; (800) 279-4441. Cat. No. 16255, TFH Mirror Stand Hardware Kit, $8.95; kit includes fifty 3/8" x 2" hardwood spiral dowel pins, one pair polished brass swivel mirror screws, and a set of 10 mirror retainer clips (1/8" offset). Kit price includes shipping cost. QUANTITY 3 pieces 1 piece 1 piece 1 11 14 8 1 pair 1 set 2 1/2 pint 1/2 pint
CUTTING LIST
KEY A B C D E F G H J K L M PCS. 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 4 1 1 1 1 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 1" x 4-1/2" x 38-1/4" walnut (sides) 1" x 3-1/2" x 18-1/2" walnut (cross support) 1" x 3" x 15" walnut (top rail) 1" x 2-1/2" x 15" walnut (bottom rail) 1" x 2" x 19-3/4" walnut (cap molding)* 1" x 1-5/8" x 59-1/2" walnut (stiles) 3/4" x 3" x 17-1/2" walnut (bases) 3/4" x 3" x 3" walnut (feet) 1/2" x 5" x 24" walnut (braces)* 3/8" x 1-5/8" x 55" walnut (bullnose molding)* 3/8" x 1-5/8" x 16" walnut (bullnose molding)* 1/4" x 15" x 54" scrap plywood (back)
*Cut to finished dimensions during assembly; see the step-by-step instructions. 82

Use the side of the blade of a straight screwdriver placed in the slot of the inserts to twist them into their holes. A silver dollar works too! 19. Use a hacksaw to cut 1/2 in. from each swivel screw. Next, place the
1/4-in. brass flat washers over the mirror swivel screws. Now with the help of another person, hold the mirror frame between the sides and have your helper insert the swivel screws. Tighten the screws, and youre all set. TFH
7
ALIGN BRACE AND SIDE HERE
6
BRACE
PUSH STICKS
SCRIBE THIS EDGE
CUT the finished widths of the bullnose moldings. Set your table saw to cut 11/16 in. wide. Cut off one molding piece, flip the waste piece over, and cut off the other molding piece. Do both pieces K and L.
SCRIBE the edges of the braces where they meet the sides. Hold the brace behind the side so the top of the brace is aligned with the side, then draw the scribe line.
EDGES ALREADY ROUTED
GUARD REMOVED FOR PHOTOUSE YOURS!
Editor and Project Co-Designer DAVID RADTKE Art Direction MARCIA WILLISTON Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON Lead Photo MIKE KRIVIT How-to Photography BILL ZUEHLKE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
83
Harvest Table
Fast, easy
Project Facts
I I
Dimensions 30" H x 30-1/2" W x 64-7/8" L Time 4 hours to cut and assemble (extra time for nishing) Cost & Skill Level $225; beginner and up Tools Combination square, miter saw, screw gun and tape measure
I I
44
and elegant
Simple off-the-shelf materials and basic tools make this the easiest table youll ever build!
Heres all you need!
I I I I I
Hardwood veneer ooring 3/4" plywood base Stairway newel posts Wood trim Hardware
by David Radtke
he top of this table is as tough as a hardwood oorliterally. Its made of hardwood veneer ooring thats glued and screwed to a 3/4-in. plywood base. The hardwood legs are not usual table fare either; theyre made from standard stairway newel posts. The rest of the wood parts are used in a unique way to complete the look of the table. The legs are fastened with special steel brackets and bolts that are easily removed for storing the table or moving it on moving day. Almost everything you need is available at home centers or full-service lumberyards and will easily t into your trunk (if you have the lumberyard cut your plywood to size). The only parts I couldnt nd at a local home center were the heavy-duty steel apron brackets and hanger bolts for strong leg connections. Well give you a mail-order source at the end of the article. More HARVEST TABLE
45
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
FEBRUARY 2002
Harvest table
he length of the table is designed to accommodate two chairs comfortably side by side. The width is designed to t four widths of tongue-and-groove veneer ooring laid side by side. If you decide to use a different brand of ooring from ours (see Buyers Guide, p. 52), adjust the width and size of your table accordingly. This table used a single package of ooring; a larger table would require a second package.
3" x 3" x 48" NEWEL POST LEVELING BLOCKS
WASTE PIECE FROM NEWEL TOP
CUT your newel post perfectly square using a simple miter box as a guide. Cut the top first, then flip it end-for-end and trim the other end.
1x4 OAK BOARDS 2" PORTABLE MITER SAW GUIDE
1/8" WIDE AND 1/4" DEEP SAW KERFS
29-5/8"
2
64"
CUT the aprons to length, then cut a 1/8-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep saw kerf 2 in. from the end. To make the kerf wide enough with the slender handsaw shown, youll need to make individual cuts on each side of your mark, then knock out the center section with a knife. Dont worry, a little too wide is still OK.
1-3/4" 3/4" PLYWOOD SUBTOP
Getting the right materials makes the assembly go like clockwork
1-3/4"
COMBINATION SQUARE
DRAW guidelines on the underside of the plywood subtop to later align the aprons. Next, place a mark 3-1/2 in. in from each edge to mark the end points of the apron pieces and the edges of the legs. The size of our plywood subtop accommodates the dimensions of the flooring with a bit left over.
If you cant nd the exact materials listed in our Buyers Guide, select substitutes. The 48-in. colonial-style newel posts were a staple in the stair parts section at a local home center. If newel posts arent the right shape or length for your table design (you may decide to build a coffee table), you can also buy table legs (see Buyers Guide, p. 52, for details).
46
Harvest table
FIG. A
HARVEST TABLE DETAIL
F E
45-DEGREE BEVEL (TYP.)
F C1 D1 B A C2
2" ANGLE BRACKET, 3/4" SCREWS APRON BRACKET
F
1" DRYWALL SCREW
D2
APRON BRACKET, 5/8" SHEET METAL SCREWS 2" ANGLE BRACKET, 3/4" SCREWS
D1 5/16" x 3" A D2 B C1 E
HANGER BOLT, WASHER AND WING-NUT
C1
1-3/4"
1" DRYWALL SCREW CHAMFER ONE EDGE OF B, DRILL 1/4" DIA. BOLT HOLE 1/8" x 1/4" DEEP SAW KERF 1" BRAD
F
3-1/2" 2" 3-1/2" 4" 1-3/4"
C2
D2 C2
BOTTOM VIEW
SECTION VIEW
If you plan to paint the legs, choose poplar or maple because their smooth surfaces paint up beautifully. Oak is porous and looks best stained and varnished. Hauling a big piece of plywood home in a standard sedan can be a problem as well, so ask the store clerk to cut it to the dimensions you need. Lumberyards and home centers will usually charge a small fee for cutting the plywood for you, but
heres a place where the benet is well worth the extra buck. The prenished ooring top we used has a plywood substrate with about a 1/8-in. thick solid wood surface. This style ooring is meant to be installed as a oating oor, not glued to ooring underlayment. However, for a small area like this table, gluing and screwing the oorMore HARVEST TABLE
47
Cutting List
KEY
A B C1 C2 D1 D2 E F
PCS.
1 4 2 2 2 2
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3/4" x 29-5/8" x 64" plywood subtop (base) 3" x 3" x 28-1/2" factory-turned newel posts (cut as shown) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 22-5/8" oak aprons 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 57" oak aprons 3/4" x 2-1/4" x 22-5/8" dentil molding 3/4" x 2-1/4" x 57" dentil molding
1 pkg. Harris Tarkett Vanguard ooring (Wheat Oak) 1 3/8" x 1-5/16" x 16' oak edge trim (Princeton doorstop) cut to t
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
FEBRUARY 2002
Harvest table
CENTER OF APRON
2" x 2" STEEL ANGLE BRACKETS
3/4" CABINET SCREWS
1x4 APRON
ing to the plywood below is just ne. Large areas such as oors need to move independently from the plywood or suboor below. You can use more sophisticated tools for cutting the parts, but I found the simple handsaw miter box worked really well for getting straight 90-degree cuts as well as the 45-degree miters for the edging around the tabletop. To get the ooring edges to align perfectly with the plywood
1-3/4"
More HARVEST TABLE

4"
POSITION the aprons along the lines drawn in the previous step. Screw the aprons to the underside of the top using steel angle brackets. Use three brackets for the two longer aprons. Slightly bend the angle brackets if theyre not holding the aprons square to the plywood subtop.
CHAMFERED EDGE
APRON BRACKET
5
5/16" x 3" HANGER BOLT WING-NUT CHAMFERED EDGE
TAP the apron brackets into the saw kerf cuts you made earlier. With the bracket centered on the apron, screw it to the aprons with 5/8-in. sheet metal screws (purchased separately).
APRON BRACKET
3" 4-3/4"
SHAVE OFF one upper edge of each leg (chamfer) with a hand plane to create a flat spot for drilling. Cradle the leg tightly between the aprons and against the subtop, then drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole into each leg.
48
Harvest table
HAPPY CLAMPER
5/8" SHEET METAL SCREWS
LOCKING PLIERS
SPRING CLAMPS DENTIL MOLDING
TURN the hanger bolt into the pilot hole with a locking pliers clamped around the Wing-Nut (to protect the threads). Leave about 1-1/4 in. of the bolt exposed, then remove the Wing-Nut. Slip the leg and bolt into place and tighten the Wing-Nut to the bracket.
GLUE the dentil molding to the aprons and clamp them in place. If you dont have enough clamps, let the freshly glued and clamped section set for 45 minutes, then move to the next apron. Use a clamp every 8 in.
subtop, youll nd that a sanding block or a belt sander along the edge will straighten the edges for the nal trim piece around the perimeter.
Choose a tough nish for your table parts
TONGUE-ANDGROOVE VENEER STRIP FLOORING
GLUE UNDER PIECE WITH TONGUE AND GROOVE
We chose an oil stain (see Buyers Guide) that matched our prenished ooring. Be sure to sand all the parts with 150-grit sandpaper before staining. Let the stain dry and apply two coats of a waterborne polyurethane varnish. We used a semigloss poly acrylic nish by Minwax. To minimize tedious cutting in with a brush, be sure to prenish the wood edge trim before
GROOVE END
Oops!
I tried a 1-1/4 in. screw and puckered the surface of the ooring in a couple of spots when I drove the screw in a half turn too tight!
More HARVEST TABLE
POSITION the first piece of flooring with the grooved side and end perfectly aligned with the corner of the plywood subtop. Apply a couple of dots of construction adhesive to the underside of each piece of flooring and then screw through the bottom of the plywood subtop into the flooring. Use 1-in. drywall screws (two on each end).
9
50
Harvest table
Top, leg, apron and molding options

You can build this simple project exactly as weve done or put your own spin on it. Feel free to choose from a variety of wood species for your aprons, legs and edge moldings. Look through the molding bins at your lumberyard and home center. Color can also change the overall look of the project. Keep in mind that you can choose from a variety of materials for your tabletop as well, from ceramic tile to plastic laminate ooring, so pick the material that suits your sense of style. Whatever you choose, follow the step-by-step photos and clear drawings to guide you through the basic process.
FEBRUARY 2002
51
Harvest table
CUT FLUSH WITH PLYWOOD BASE CARPENTERS GLUE FOR TONGUE AND GROOVE
COMBINATION SQUARE
10
TRIM the ends of the flooring flush with the edge of the plywood subtop. Stroke the saw gently, cutting on the downstroke, and be sure the piece youre cutting has been glued and screwed first to hold it steady.
CARPENTERS GLUE
HARDWOOD EDGE TRIM
you glue it to the sides of the tabletop. Protect the back of the trim with masking tape as you stain and varnish it so the wood glue will bond to the trim. Prime the legs with a brush-on primer. When thats thoroughly dry, sand it with 120-grit sandpaper and then apply two coats of spray enamel for a really smooth nish.
11
GLUE AND NAIL the 1-5/16 in. edge trim to cover the edge of the flooring and the plywood underneath. Its much easier to prefinish these piecesyoull save yourself the trouble of carefully staining and varnishing them right alongside the finished flooring.
Buyers Guide
Many brands of engineered wood ooring are sold at home centers. We designed the size of the table for Vanguard Wheat Oak (9/16 in. thick) by Harris Tarkett. To locate a dealer near you, call Harris Tarkett at (800) 842-7816 or visit its Web site at www.harristarkett.com. Order your set of four apron brackets (part No. 34303) for $3.49 plus shipping from Rockler at (800) 279-4441 or visit its Web site at www.rockler.com. We used Ace Hardware brand cherry oil stain. Check out the variety of table legs at Osborne Wood products (800-849-8876, www.osbornewood.com) and Woodturners Inc. (877-603-9663, www.queenannelegs.com).
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Illustration EUGENE THOMPSON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Project Design DAVID RADTKE
52
Yard
by Travis Larson
Spacious interior storage Wide sliding door for easy access Bright
40
shed
skylit interior Handsome cedar siding Sheltered work/sitting area
41
Figure A
Framing details
12 SLOPE 5 2x4 BLOCKING 24" O.C. ADDED TO COMMON TRUSS DIAGONAL BRACE
4'
10' COMMON TRUSS
4'
2x4 SOFFIT BLOCKING 1/2" ROOF SHEATHING 2x6 FASCIA
OVERLAP TIE PLATE 3 2 1
POST CAP BEAM
2x4 SOFFIT NAILER

3
3/8" SOFFIT SHEATHING
1/2" WALL SHEATHING
7' STUDS, 16" O.C. (TYPICAL)
ROUGH OPENING PER WINDOW SPEC.
4x4 POST
GABLE TRUSS (THIS END ONLY)
1/2" WALL SHEATHING
POST ANCHOR 24" TRUSS SPACING 23-1/2" 1/2" PLY C L 12"
12"
12' 75" (BEAM) 10' 4" CONCRETE SLAB
12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING 24" x 36" WINDOWS PORTICO AREA 116-1/2" ANCHOR BOLT 4" CONCRETE SLAB BOTTOM PLATE 4" MIN. POST AND FOOTING
C L 24" x 36" WINDOW 69-3/4" 70" DOOR OPENING 12" 24" FLOOR PLAN 146-1/2" (BEAM) C L
1/2" REBAR 12"
12"
SLAB AND FOOTING DETAILS
42
Yard shed
1/2" GABLE SHEATHING
DOUBLE 2x4 BLOCKING
2x6
POST CAP BEAM 4x4 POST
TOP PLATE
HEADER
2x8s
2x4
DETAIL 1
2x8s KING STUD
ho doesnt need a better place to stow all that stuff cluttering up the garage? Wheelbarrows, lawn mowers, bikes, fertilizer spreaders and lawn and garden supplies all steal precious garage space. A yard shed will not only free up your garage but also help you organize and neaten your home and let you park the cars inside again. This year weve bent over backward to design a shed thats easy to build yet has lots of useful features. We combined standard 2x4 wall construction with prefabricated roof trusses to make roof framing easy, eliminate tricky soffit (eave overhangs) work and simplify trim details.We added an easy-to-build sliding door for wide shed access without the hassles or expense of swinging doors. Additional features include the open portico and wide roof overhangs. Theyll shade you from the hot sun and shelter you from the rain so you can work in the open air or just relax. In this story, well show you the stepby-step process of how to frame and nish this shed.While time consuming,the process doesnt require any advanced carpentry skills. If youve done some framing and siding and a tad of roof-
ing,youre qualied to tackle this project. We spent about $3,500 (excluding the concrete work) for top-grade materials. The materials lists below and on pp. 53 and 54 tell you what we used,but its easy to shave off $1,000 or more by excluding some of the cosmetic trim (asterisked items on the exterior cladding materials list,p.53),or substituting a less expensive material for the rough-sawn cedar.If you want to further cut costs, eliminate skylights and use standard shingles in lieu of the architectural-grade shingles.
BEAM
Figure A Rough framing materials

1/2" PLYWOOD
ITEM Framing materials 4x4 x 8' treated (portico posts) 2x4 x 10' treated (bottom plates) 2x4 x 12' treated (bottom plate) 2x4 x 8' treated (bottom plate) 2x4 x 12' (top and tie plates) 2x4 x 7' (studs) 2x8 x 14' (door/portico beam) 2 2 1 1 14 60 2 4 25 9 1 QTY. ITEM Hardware 16d cement-coated nails (framing nails) 8d cement-coated nails (sheathing nails) 1-1/2" joist hanger screws (connector fasteners) Rafter ties (truss anchors) H-clips (plywood joints) Post anchors (post-to-concrete connection) Post caps (post-to-beam connection) 15 lbs. 10 lbs. 1 lb. 16 36 2 2 QTY.
TRIMMER (2x4 x 78-1/4") DETAIL 2
KING STUD
1/2" PLYWOOD
BEAM
2x8s
2x8 x 8' (portico beam, window headers) 4x8 1/2" plywood sheets (roof and wall sheathing) Roof trusses Common trusses Gable end truss
1/2" PLYWOOD TRIMMERS (2x4 x 78-1/4")
DETAIL 3
43
Yard shed
1-1/2" BEAM POCKET
Size it to suit
Because were using standard wall construction and roof trusses, you can build virtually any size shed you wish using these basic construction techniques. The trusses we show are designed to handle the 4-ft. wide soffits.You can also order trusses with shorter soffits or a different roof slope. Our trusses have a 5/12 slope, which means they drop 5 inches for every 12 horizontal inches. Contact your local building department and ask if a building permit is needed. Be ready to supply the exact location of the shed on your property along with dimensions and building details. Make a copy of Figure A and submit that along with a site plan and thatll probably be all youll need. If you want to wire your shed, youll need an electrical permit as well. For underground wiring details, see Outdoor Light and Outlet, April 04, p. 59. To order a copy, see p. 5.
3" BEAM POCKET
TOP PLATE
BOTTOM PLATE
1/2" ANCHOR BOLTS
Cut the top and bottom plates to length (see Figure A), then mark and drill 5/8-in. anchor bolt holes in the bottom plates. Tack the pairs together and mark the window, door and stud locations. Assemble the headers and nail them to the top plates. Then nail the full-length studs to both plates, and finally add the trimmers and other framing for the doors and windows.
A few rented tools will save gobs of time

WINDOW TRIMMER 16d NAILS DOOR TRIMMER WINDOW HEADER ASSEMBLY
Stand the walls and drop them over the anchor bolts. Nail the corners together and install the anchor bolt washers and nuts. Then plumb and temporarily brace each corner with a long 2x4 on the inside.
2x4 BRACE
LEVEL
Youll only need an apronful of tools, a circular saw and a screw gun to build this shed, but a couple of rental tools will speed construction. A 6-ft. section of scaffolding complete with wheels and planks will simplify roof-related construction ($30$50 per day; Photos 7 and 14). Set it up inside the shed and youll have a safe, comfortable platform for setting the trusses. Set it up outside and itll make sheathing the roof and installing the fascia boards and the rst few rows of shingles much easier. If youre productive, youll even have rental time left on Sunday afternoon to side the gable ends. To save time when youre nailing, also consider renting a pneumatic sheathing stapler (Photo 11) and a roofing nailer (Photo 14). Each rents for about $30 per day plus the cost of fasteners.
ANCHOR BOLT
Pouring the slab

We hired a concrete contractor to pour our oor: a 4-in. thick slab with edges
44
TREATED 4x4 POST BEAM TRIMMERS
Yard shed
Set, plumb and brace the posts. Rest a straight 2x4 on the beam trimmers. Level it and mark both posts for height. Cut off the posts with a circular saw.
TEMPORARY 2x4 BRACES
thickened to 12 in. around the perimeter (Figure A). It cost us about $1,200. But if youve done concrete work before, you can certainly pour this simple slab yourself for $500 or less. Form it so the top is at least 4 in. above the ground to protect the wood trim and siding from water runoff and splashing. Embed two rows of 1/2-in. rebar in the footings during pouring to strengthen the edges. Youll need to order 4.5 yards of concrete plus any concrete you want for walks, patios or footings outside the structure. Lay out the wall plates ahead of time, then mark on the forms where youd like the anchor bolts placed (two on the short walls, three on the back wall) to ensure they wont end up in the doorway or beneath studs.
2x8 BEAM POST/BEAM CONNECTOR
TIP
TRIMMER
TRIMMER
ACE TEMPORARY BR
Assemble the beams and set them on the posts and trimmers. Nail them to the stud walls and to the post/beam connector.
Although we put a paver brick patio in front of the shed and under the portico, you can save time and money by pouring a concrete slab in those areas instead. Just make sure that the concrete outside the shed slopes away so water wont seep in under the walls. Also dig footings to support the portico posts (Figure A). Use string lines to nd the post positions, then dig 12-in. diameter, 12-in. deep footings and ll them with concrete to 4 in. below the slab height (to leave room for the nished patio oor). If you extend a concrete patio slab under the posts, increase the thickness of the slab to 8 in. in a 3 x 3-ft. area to support the additional weight. Otherwise, pour 12-in. diameter, 12-in. deep footings and use your string lines to accurately position post brackets in the wet concrete.
Nail tie plates over the top plates, overlapping the corners. Use 16d nails spaced over the studs below. Then nail plywood sheathing to the walls.
OVERLAP AT CORNER
TIE PL ATE
Wall and beam construction

TIE PLATE
Get started on your wall framing by cutting the treated bottom and top plates to length (see Figure A for dimensions and Photo 1). Mark and drill the 5/8-in. diameter anchor bolt holes, then temporarily tack the plates together with 8d nails and lay out the studs and win-
46
GABLE END TRUSS
Yard shed
COMMON TRUSS PLYWOOD SPACER BRACE
TEMPORARY 2x4 CLEATS
SCAFFOLDING INSIDE
Lay out the truss positions on the top plates. Erect trusses at each end of the roof. Center them, brace them plumb and toenail each one to the walls with 16d nails.
Stretch a string between the end trusses and align the intermediate truss peaks with the string. Lay out and tack them to a temporary ribbon board to keep them in place and aligned.
2x4 RIBBON BOARD
PEAK ALIGNMENT STRING LINE
Screw truss clips to the tops of the walls and to the trusses with special 1-1/2 in. truss screws.
TRUSS
dow and door openings. Note that the bottom plates on each side of the door opening and at the back corner of the portico are longer than the top plates. Thats where the trimmers (beam supports) rest on the bottom plates (Photo 1 ) to support the portico and door opening beams. Assemble each wall and set it aside to use the slab for assembling the other walls (Photo 2).After theyre built, slip them over the anchor bolts and nail them together at the corners with ve 16d nails. Plumb and brace the walls at the corners with the braces on the inside of the shed so they wont interfere with the wall sheathing (Photo 3). Now stand, plumb and brace the posts and assemble and set the beams. Brace the posts back to the building, to each other and to stakes pounded into the ground to keep them plumb and solid for setting the beams (Photo 5). Nail the beams, then cap the walls and beams with tie plates, overlapping them at the corners (Photo 6) and over the tops of the beams. Drive two 16d nails at each end and at least one 16d nail every 16 in. Then sheathe the walls with plywood, driving nails or staples every 8 in. along edges and every 12 in. otherwise. After you sheathe the walls, you can remove the bracing,but leave on the post braces until the roof trusses are set and sheathed. Now go ahead and lay out the truss positions on the tie plates using Figure A as a guide.Youll have a fair number of 2x4s left over from the wall construction, but dont worry.Youll need most of them for blocking to support the soffit plywood along the eaves and around the edges of the portico, for siding backers on the end common truss, and for diagonal bracing for the end trusses. Still have leftovers? Use them to build shelving in your new shed!
TRUSS TIE
Ordering and installing roof trusses

WALL
Ordering roof trusses from a lumberyard means that the truss manufacturer
48
Yard shed
10
Cut and nail blocking spaced every 2 ft. on the end common truss. Then scribe, cut and sheathe both end trusses.
TEMPORARY SUPPORT BLOCK
2' EXTRA BLOCKING
BEAM SHEATHING
PLYWOOD CLIP
CHALK LINE ON TRUSSES
TEMPORARY SAFETY CLEAT
48-1/4"
11
Snap a chalk line 48-1/4 in. up from the truss ends and nail down the first row of plywood sheathing. Add plywood clips midway between trusses and nail on the second row of sheathing.
FLUSH WITH PLYWOOD
12
Nail two layers of 2x4s over the gable sheathing flush with the top of the roof to form small overhangs. If you plan to add skylights to the roof, follow the manufacturers instructions.
GABLE VENT OPENING
FLUSH WITH TRUSS END
will engineer the trusses to safely handle the spans that you specify. So you can order trusses to t any span or width of shed without worrying about strength issues. To make a longer shed, simply order more trusses, one more for every 2 ft. of building length. Bring Figure A with you when ordering the trusses and the staff will be able to help you with the order. By the way, you can expand the portico, too. Make it as wide as 8 ft. and as deep as 12 ft. simply by using double 2x10s instead of 2x8s for the beams (but make the door height 2 in. shorter). Youll be ordering two types of trusses:commontrusses, the ones that can free-span open spaces, and gable endtrusses. Gable end trusses have vertical 2x3 studs spaced every 16 in. to simplify siding installation (Photo 7). But they arent designed to span wide open areas. Since the end truss at the portico doesnt have a wall beneath it, youll have to install a common truss and add blocking for the sheathing as we show in Photo 10 and Figure A. Lay out the top plates for truss placement (see Figure A), then cluster the trusses toward one end of the building with the tips supported by the scaffolding. That way youll be able to center, set and brace the end trusses and then stand each truss in sequence without shuffling trusses around. After standing the gable end trusses, plumb and brace them back to stakes driven into the ground before standing the other trusses.A great way to safely stand the gable end trusses is to use a couple of temporary 2x4 cleats nailed to the wall (Photo 7). Theyll give you something to anchor the truss to while toenailing and adding bracing. Lay out a nailing 2x4 ribbon with the same pattern as with the wall plates (Photo 8). Use the ribbon to place and hold each truss in position until you install the roof sheathing (Photo 11). String a line at the ridge to help center the middle trusses. Tack each truss in order to the ribbon and toenail each one to the plates (Photo 8). The metal
50
Yard shed
13
Nail the 2x6 gable and eave fascia boards flush with the rooftop. Cut off the gable fascia flush with the eave fascia. Then fit and nail the 1x3 and 1x2 trim in place (Figure B, p. 53).
CUT WITH HANDSAW FLUSH
EAVE FASCIA
GABLE FASCIA
GABLE VENT
clips (truss ties) solidly anchor the trusses to the walls (Photo 9).After the trusses are in place, you may need additional diagonal bracing (see Figure A). The booklet that comes with your trusses will tell you exactly where to put them. Nail on the plywood following a chalk line as we show in Photo 11. Lay the roof sheathing along the chalk line to keep the rst row perfectly straight.We added plywood clips midway between trusses to tie the sheets together. That prevents warping that can show up well after the shingles are on. Offset all plywood butt seams at least one truss space on each row from the one below it.
Siding and trim

FIRST SHINGLE ROW FLASHING GABLE TRIM
FASCIA TRIM
17"
27"
37"
1" OVERHANG ROOFING NAILER
14
Staple No. 15 roof felt to the roof. Snap chalk lines every other shingle row to keep rows straight. Then nail on the shingles, allowing a 1-in. overhang. Staple more roof felt to the walls and install the windows.
BLOCKING BEHIND FASCIA
SOFFIT PLYWOOD
15
Nail blocking between the roof trusses (see Figure A), then cut the soffit plywood to fit and nail it to the blocks and trusses.
Begin the exterior nishing by nailing on the fascia boards. We show a threepart fascia made from a 2x6 and two 1x3 and 1x2 trim boards (Photo 14). You can simplify the fascia details by eliminating one or both trim boards. But whatever style you choose, its easiest to cut and install the gable fascia first, leaving the eave ends long, and then running the eave fascia into it ( Photo 13 ). Then cut off the overhanging gable fascia in place with a handsaw. We wont show you shingling details here. Use the directions on the shingle packages for installation procedures. Cut and install the 3/8-in. soffit plywood, adding blocking wherever necessary to secure outer edges that wont be supported by siding trim. Start cladding the walls by stapling up No. 15 felt, starting at the bottom and overlapping each row by 2 in. Then install the corner boards and 2x6 water boards at the bottom (Photo 16). Lap the water boards at least 1/2 in. over the edge of the slab to keep water out. Cap the top of the water board with 1-1/2 in. drip cap ashing. Slit the felt and slip the ashing under it. Then cut and nail on the corner boards.Note that we made the corners from a full 2x4 and half of another one. Nail them together and put them up as a unit.
52
Figure B
Exterior cladding details
BEAM 1x4 1x8 3/8" PLYWOOD 2x6 FASCIA DOUBLE 2x4 BLOCKING SOFFIT 1-1/2" OFFSET FLASHING 2x6 1x3 FASCIA 1x2 FASCIA 1x2 FASCIA 1x3 FASCIA 2x6 FASCIA 6" LAPPED SIDING NO. 15 FELT
1x4 FRIEZE BOARDS
1x8 1x8 CAP 1x4 FRIEZE BOARD
DOUBLEHUNG WINDOWS
2x4 TRIM
HALF 2x4 2x4 CORNER BOARDS
2x4 DOOR TRIM
NO. 15 FELT
1-1/2" OFFSET FLASHING
1x4 1x6 POST
2x8 DOOR STOP
2x6 WATER BOARD
Exterior cladding materials

ITEM Roong Rolls of No. 15 organic felt (roof and wall underlayment) Squares of shingles (roong) Bundle of ridge shingles (ridge cap) Siding and trim (rough-sawn cedar) 4x8 x 3/8" (soffit plywood) 2x6 x 14' (water board)* 2x6 x 12' (water board)* 2x6 x 8' (water board)* 2x6 x 10' (gable bottom boards)* 2x6 x 12' (gable fascia) 2x6 x 10' (eave fascia) 1x3 x 12' (gable fascia)* 1x3 x 10' (eave fascia)* 1x2 x 12' (gable fascia)* 1x2 x 10' (eave fascia)* 2x4 x 8' (corner boards) 2x4 x 12' (window casing)* 2x4 x 8' (door trim) 2x8 x 8' (door stop) 1x2 x 14' (door track valance)* * Optional parts 8 1 2 1 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 5 3 2 1 1 1x8 x 12' (beam fascia) 2 4 1 1x8 x 8' (beam fascia) 1x6 x 8' (post casing) 1x4 x 8' (post casing) 1x4 x 10' (frieze boards)* 1x4 x 12' (frieze boards)* 1x4 x 8' (frieze boards)* 3/4 x 8' (cedar lap siding) 3/4 x 12' (cedar lap siding) Hardware 2" siding nails (3/4" siding and trim) 3" siding nails (1-1/2" trim) 1-1/4" roong nails (shingles) 5/16" staples (roong felt) 4d galv. box nails (soffit plywood) 1-1/2" x 10' drip cap ashing (gable base and water boards)* Windows 2' x 3' vinyl double-hung windows* 2' x 4' No. 106 Velux xed skylights* No. 106 skylight ashing kits* 3 2 2 10 lbs. 5 lbs. 10 lbs. 1 box 1 lb. 8 1 3 4 4 1 2 4 32 42 QTY. ITEM QTY.
53
7.
POST TRIM
Yard shed
5.
FRIEZE BOARDS
3.
4.
BEAM TRIM
OTHER VERTICAL TRIM
1.
.
DOOR TRIM
6.
WINDOW TRIM
Since the windows are well protected from weather, you dont have to flash them to keep water out. Simply trim them with 2x4s. Finish the top of the walls with 1x4 frieze boards, and clad the beams and posts with 3x4-in. thick trim as shown. Side the walls, leaving 1/8-in. gaps at the ends of the siding for caulk.
Figure C
Sliding door details
.
2.
WATER BOARD AND FLASHING
DOOR 74" x 88" OVERALL
FRAME DIMENSIONS 72-1/2" WIDE x 86-1/2" HIGH
16 17
Install all of the exterior trim as shown in Figure B, following the numbered sequence in the photo.
1x6s
LEAVE 1/8" GAPS
Scribe and cut the siding to fit, then nail it through the sheathing into the studs with siding nails.
SCRIBE CUTS
28"
1x4s
18
Cut the door parts using Figure C as a guide. Lay out the 1x6 backside frame and glue and screw the plywood to it using the plywood to square the door.
5/8" GROOVED PLYWOOD
1x3 TRIM; MITER CORNERS
Sliding door materials

DOOR FRONT
ITEM 4x8 x 5/8" (grooved r plywood siding) 1x4 x 8' (front door frame) 1x4 x 6' (front door frame) 1x6 x 8' (back door frame) 1x6 x 6' (back door frame) National V13B Gate Latch Johnson 1120 series pocket door hangers Johnson 100 series 6' pocket door track Door handles
QTY. 2 4 3 2 3 1 1 set 2 2
BACKSIDE 1x6 DOOR FRAME
54
Yard shed
1x4 CENTER TRIM
In the opening photo, youll see decorative brackets. We cut those out of 2x8s with a jigsaw. Use any curve you wish and cut a 60-degree angle on the top and a 30-degree angle on the bottom. Toenail them to the corner boards and soffit with 8d galvanized nish nails.
Building the sliding door

FRONT SIDE 1x4 DOOR FRAME ALTERNATE DOOR FRAME JOINTS
19
Glue and nail the front side frame through the plywood and into the backside frame with 2-in. nails. Space the center trim boards 3/16 in. (a carpenter pencils width) apart.
20
Cut the 1x3 trim and glue and screw it to the edge of the door. Position and screw the door roller brackets to the top edge.
1x3 EDGE TRIM
ROLLERS ROLLER BRACKET
CENTER LINE
21
We chose a sliding door for this shed because it is easy to build, trouble free and best of all, gives a clear 6-ft. opening for wide access. Building a sliding door isnt as tricky as you might think. To build this door, you simply glue, screw and nail the front and back frames to a plywood core. Cut the two sections of plywood to length and width (see Figure C), lay them together and use them as a guide for measuring the lengths of the door frame parts. Assemble the door on the shed oor to keep everything at and square, and dry-t the parts before gluing and fastening them (Photos 18 19). To hang the door, screw the roller tracks to the soffit (Photo 21). Youll need two 6-ft. tracks mounted end to end. You may have to drill additional holes through the track so the screws hit the trusses. Slip the wheel trucks into the track, mount the brackets on the top of the door (Photo 20) and then, with a helper, lift the door onto the tracks. The directions that come with the rollers will give you the details.
Screw the track to the soffit framing (drill new holes as necessary). Slide the rollers into the track, then slip the rollers into the brackets and lock them into place.
Finishing touches
ROLLER DOOR TRACK ROLLER LOCK
ROLLER BRACKET
If you choose natural wood siding, its best to protect it with an exterior nish to keep it from graying over time. We coated our siding with two coats of Penon clear oil nish.Although its not visible in the photos, we stained the soft undersides with a moss green opaque stain for added contrast.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
56
40
V I C T O R I A N
Screen House
Escape the bugs in style, whether youre entertaining friends or just hanging out
by Jeff Timm
hether its the commotion of the house or the buzz of the bugs thats driving you crazy, this airy retreat is the perfect place to get away from it all. Its a modest size (8 x 14 ft.), but the tongue-and-groove vaulted ceiling with exposed rafters creates a spacious feel. The decorative detailing adds punch to the simple design, and its not difficult to achieve. The posts are store-bought, and the brackets and rafter tails simply cut with a jigsaw. We designed this structure for easy construction. The walls are a modular design that is based on 30-in. wide openings. The roof has a 12/12 slope, which means every angle is a simple 45-degree cut. The porch roof and main roof are the same size, so all the rafters (except a few short rafters) are the same size. We special-ordered the screens and door (see Buyers Guide, p. 60) to fit this design. And if you want to reduce the size of the project a bit, you can eliminate the porch roof and still have a handsome structure.
Use cedar for appearance and durability

We made this project almost entirely of clear (knot-free) cedar, from floor to ceiling and even the roof. Its natural resistance to decay and its ability to take a stain well ensure that your project will not only look good but last. However, the materials cost a hefty $9,000.You could cut the cost of this project in half by using treated lum-
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 20 03
41
Figure A Fig. A Screen House SCREEN HOUSE Assembly ASSEMBLY

12
CEDAR SHINGLES; 5" EXPOSURE 24" O.C. 20" O.C. 24" O.C.
2x8 RIDGE 16'6" LONG
22" O.C.
2x6 RAFTERS* SPACED 24" ON CENTER (O.C.)
12 ROOF SLOPE 2x6 JACK RAFTERS 1/2" CDX PLYWOOD SHEATHING 2x6 CROSSTIE AND DIAGONALS 4x4 KING POST AND BRACES 2x8 BLOCKING 8" 1x2 NAILER
DECORATIVE BRACKET; NOTCH FOR 3" L-BRACKET
2"
5-1/4" x 5-1/4" DECORATIVE POST
2x6 CEDAR PERIMETER BOARDS (14' x 14' DECK AREA)
30" x 81" SCREEN DOOR
2x6 CEDAR DECK BOARDS
21"
METAL POST BRACKET AND 1x2 TRIM C L 49-3/4" PORTICO RAFTER EQ.
1x2 NAILER 1-1/2" DRIP CAP 2x6 RIPPED AT 45
1x6 T&G CEDAR BOARDS 2x4 NAILER 6x6 BEAM
EQ.
9-1/4" 24"
8'7"
1x8 CEDAR TRIM; MITER CORNERS 2x4 BRACE CUT AT 45 2x8 JOISTS 13'10" x 13'10" FRAME
13'10" (OVERALL)
DETAIL 1
42
*RAFTER DETAIL ON P. 50 FIRST RAFTER OVERHANGS GABLE 4x4 3/4" (SEE SECTION) 15-1/4" O.C. ROUND FINIAL POST CAP
Figure B Wall 2F 3/25/03 VERSION Gable Section View

2x8 RIDGE
Screen House
30" LONG 4x4 GOTHIC STYLE POST 1x6 T&G CEDAR BOARDS
1x6 T&G CEDAR 2x2 NAILER
2x6 RAFTER
3/4"
1x2 CEDAR TRIM
4x4 FILLER 2x4 TOP PLATE 1-1/2" DRIP CAP
2"
DECORATIVE BRACKET
65-3/4"
3/4" x 3/4" SCREEN STOP
30" x 66" x 3/4" THICK CEDAR SCREENS (BEVEL BOTTOM) 3/4" x 3/4" SCREEN STOP 4x4 x 8' CEDAR CORNER POST
1/4" 3/4"
10 BEVEL
1/8" DRIP CUT
1/4"
3/4" x 30" x 66" SCREEN (BEVEL BOTTOM)
2x4 SILL
DECORATIVE 1x6 CUTOUT 2x4 x 8' CEDAR STUDS 31-1/2" O.C.
2x2 NAILER
1x6 CEDAR DECORATIVE CUTOUT 1x6 T&G CEDAR 2x4 BOTTOM PLATE
ber for the deck and frame, a lower grade of 1x6 tongue-and-groove (t&g) cedar siding, and an asphalt shingle roof instead of cedar shingles. We stained all the screen house wood with an oil stain before assembling. This seemed like a real chore at the time, but it was far easier than doing it later. We list the colors used in the Buyers Guide (p. 60). Building this project will take time. Break it up into manageable steps: First build the 14 x 14-ft. deck. Take a weekend to do the decorative cuts and another to stain the pieces. Then hit it hard with a helper for four to six days to put it all together. This isnt a project for beginners, but if youve built a deck before, this is a great step-up project. Besides basic carpentry tools, youll need a table saw and a couple of stepladders, one at least 12 ft. Although not essential, two sections of rented scaffolding ($60 a week) make shingling much CORNER BRACKET easier and safer.
30-1/4"
6x6 BEAM
A simple gravel bed provides a firm foundation
2x2 NAILER 2x6 CEDAR DECK BOARD
13'10"
8'7" 18" 18"
64"
4x4 WALL TIE LAYOUT
Mark out a 16 x 16-ft. area with stakes and string. Instead of digging deck posts into the ground, we decided to float the deck and screen house on a pad of gravel. If frost should knock it 1x8 RAFTER TAIL easily relevel it out of level, you can CEDAR 2x8 again. Excavate a pad about 8 in. deep, TRIM JOISTS removing the topsoil. Get it roughly 2x8 BLOCKING square and level, but dont fuss; you 6x6 BEAM Story Numbercan tweak it later. Our site sloped 8 in. 6" from one side to the other. Find a flatStory NameScreen House ter site if your location slopes more Issue than that. Otherwise youll have to 6" EditorJeff Timms / Carlsen regrade or build a retaining wall. Art DirectorMarcia Roepke excavation with a 6-in. layer Fill the PEA ROCK LANDSCAPE FABRIC ACORN BREAD Tech Art Version2F 3/25/03 of 5/8-in. gravel GINGER (about 8 tons). This GABLE WALL is a lot of shoveling, so have the gravel SECTION VIEW dropped as close to the pad as
2x6 CEDAR PERIMETER DECK BOARD
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JUNE 20 03
92-5
14-3
RA
43
Screen House
STARTER BOARDS CHALK LINE
DOUBLED JOISTS CORNER BLOCKING
Frame the deck support system and joists using Figure A as a guide. Start the decking by laying two deck boards at right angles along two adjacent sides, mitering the corner. Lay the deck boards perpendicular to the joists. Keep them parallel by snapping a chalk line for reference about halfway across the frame.
2 3
Cut the wall parts to length (Figure A). Create the sills by cutting a bevel and a stop on cedar 2x4s with a table saw. CAUTION: You must remove the saw guard to make this cut. Use a push stick to keep your fingers away from the blade.
1/4"
SCREEN SILL 10 BEVEL 1"
Screw the studs to the top and bottom plates following the wall plan in Figure A. Then screw the screen sills and 2x2 cleats in place, using two 29-in. long siding boards as spacers. Toe-screw the center sill into the uprights from underneath. Screw the 4x4 corner posts into place.
TOP PLATE
4x4 POST
SILL 2x2 CLEAT
SPACER BOARDS
possible. Roughly flatten and level it with a long board. Position the treated 6x6 beams (Figure A). Then nail together the outer frame (rim joists) of the deck. Square the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner, shifting the corners until the diagonals are equal. Check the frame for level, adjusting it by adding or removing gravel under the 6x6s as needed. Lay out the joist locations according to Figure A and nail the joists in place, working from the center to each end. The doubled joists and blocking stiffen the deck under the screen house. Also cut 45-degree angled blocks for the corners. Finally, nail a 1x8 cedar fascia around the perimeter, mitering the corners for a clean appearance.
BOTTOM PLATE
Picture-framed decking
Picture framing gives the deck a more finished lookthere are no raw cut ends. Begin decking with two perime-
44
Screen House
ter boards, mitering the corners and overhanging the trim by 1 in. (Photo 1). Screw them to the frame with 3-in. deck screws. Cut the first deck board to length and install it. Butt each deck board to the framed edge and trim the other ends evenly after theyre all installed. Be sure you keep the decking straight. Anything out of line will be especially noticeable where the front wall of the house sits on the deck. Rip the last board to fit, trim the butt ends and then finish with the last two perimeter boards. This simplifies wall construction. Buy good, straight lumber since everything is exposed. Assemble the walls using Figure A as a guide. We chose to fasten members with 3-in. deck screws, but 3-1/2 in. galvanized nails work just as well. If you use nails, be careful not to make hammer marks where theyll be seen. After assembling the front wall, cut out the bottom plate for the door and screw on a temporary brace until you fasten the wall to the deck (Photo 5). Assembling the 1x6 tongue-and-groove siding while the wall is down simplifies that task (Photo 4). Get some help to tip up and plumb and brace each wall. Complete and stand the back and one side wall. Then build the front and other side
ACORN GINGERBREAD
PREDRILL BIT
NAIL SET 2x2 CLEATS
2" FINISH NAILS T&G BOARDS
The modular design allows you to build the walls quickly

We designed the walls so that the screen openings are all the same size.
Nail the 1x6 siding to the cleats. Drive 2-in. galvanized casing nails through the tongue and set them flush with a nail set. Trim the last board to fit. Apply construction adhesive to the acorn trim pieces, predrill with an 1/16-in. bit and secure them with three 2-1/2 in. galvanized siding nails.
CARPENTERS PENCIL
STRING LINE
WALL BRACE
TOP PLATE
Stand the walls and check for plumb with a level. Add temporary 2x4 angle braces if necessary. Screw the corners together and the bottom plate to the decking with 3-in. screws spaced every 16 in. Stretch a string line along each top plate to check for bows. Use a temporary 2x4 brace to push or pull the bowed wall straight.
46
Screen House
wall while you have the open space. Center the back wall on the deck 1-7/8 in. in from the edge. Sight down each bottom plate to make sure its straight, then fasten it to the deck. Snap a chalk line to help align the front wall. The top plates have to be straight as well to make rafter setting easier. Set a string line about 1/4 in. out from each end and run a carpenters pencil along it to find bows (Photo 5).
1/4" x 6" LAG SCREW
4x4 WALL TIES
45 BEVEL 1 FROM END
Cedar 4x4s tie the walls together

The 4x4 wall ties substitute as a top plate and also extend beyond the walls to support the porch roof and roof overhang (Photo 6 and Figure A). We spaced the 4x4s that support the porch roof at the same width as the end walls (8 ft. 7 in.). This simplifies the roof framing by making all rafters the same length. The two 4x4 king posts (Photo 8) are mostly decorative, but they also make it easier to set the ridge beam. Cut and fit them according to Photos 7 and 8. Before setting the beam, mark the rafter locations on both the 4x4 wall ties and the ridge beam. Its easier now than later!
6 7
Cut and set the 4x4 wall ties into place (Figure A). Drive 3-in. screws up from the 2x4 top plates into the 4x4s every 12 in. to secure them. Bore a 1-in. diameter hole 1/2 in. deep, then a 3/16-in. pilot hole through the 4x4s at the four corners. Then drive 1/4 in. x 6-in. lag screws with washers through each.
Measure and cut the 4x4 king posts to length (Figure A). Mark the 1-1/2 x 7-1/4 in. slot and 45-degree bevel cuts in the top. Cut the bevels first with your circular saw. Then cut along the slot lines. Finish the cuts with a handsaw, then chop out the remaining pieces with a sharp chisel. Test-fit the notch with a 2x8 cedar board.
CLAMP
1-1/2" CHISEL
Framing the roof is easier than it looks

Cut out the rafter tails using the pattern on p. 60. If the rafters arent straight, orient them so any bow arches up. Then lay out the birds-mouth (the notch that rests on the 4x4 top plates). Either mark and cut out the rafters using one as a pattern, or clamp them all together and cut a series all at once (Photo 9). This is an advanced cut; it takes a powerful circular saw, a sharp blade and a steady hand. Either way, cut one as a pattern and set it into place first to make sure it fits. Setting the rafters is quick work. Set
KING POST 7-1/4"
45 BEVEL
48
Screen House
2x8 2 X 8RIDGE RIDGEBEAM BEAM
KING POST KING PIN 1x4 1 X 4BRACE BRACE
BRACKET
Center the king posts on the wall ties and toe-screw them into place. Plumb them and brace them with scrap 1x4s. Measure and mark the positions of the posts on the ridge beam (Fig. A), then slide the beam into position and fasten it with four 3-in. screws. Plumb in the other direction and brace (Photo 10).
AIL
Gang-cut your rafters by clamping them together and laying out a 3-1/2 in. deep birdsmouth. Clamp on a straightedge to guide the base plate of the saw. Cut both sides of the birdsmouth at a 45-degree angle, then remove the clamps and finish the cut on each board with a handsaw.
71-3/4"
BAR CLAMP
STRAIGHTEDGE
BIRDSMOUTH CUT
92-5/8"
45
JIGSAW-CUT JIGSAW CUT RAFTER RAFTER TAILS TAILS
3-1/2" 14-3/4"
EAD RAFTER LAYOUT
the rafters in opposite pairs so that the ridge beam remains centered (Photo 10). Set the top of the rafter flush with the top of the ridge beam, and fasten it with two 3-in. screws. Pull the birdsmouth tight to the 4x4 and fasten it with three 3-in. screws. It goes faster if a helper works the ridge while you work the walls. Its easiest to enclose the gable walls before you put on the roof (Photo 11). Start the 1x6 tongue-and-groove siding at a bottom corner and work to the opposite end, checking for plumb every four or five boards. Marking and cutting them accurately along the top will leave a clean line along the ceiling on the inside. Face-nail the boards and stain the nailheads to match. Fitting around the
50
Screen House
ridge is tricky; measure to fit then slide in the boards from underneath.
Install the ceiling from above

2x6 2 X 6RAFTER RAFTER
TOE SCREW
10
Screw the top ends of each rafter to the ridge with two 3-in. screws, following Figure A. Then predrill and toe-screw the rafters to the walls with three 3-in. screws. Set the rafters in pairs, and work from the wall ends toward the middle. Set the outermost (fly) rafters 2 in. from the 4x4 ends.
ROOF STAINED FOR PHOTO CLARITY WALL TIE
The 1x6 tongue-and-groove roof boards also make an attractive ceiling for the interior. Start your first board tight to the top of the 4x4 wall tie, cutting away a bit of the groove (Photo 12). Align it with a chalk line measured up from the rafter tails to keep it perfectly straight. We set the textured side to the interior, but you can install the smooth side down if you prefer. Although you wont see them from inside, its best to stagger any butt joints for a stronger roof. Periodically measure down from the ridge to make sure that the boards are running parallel.Youll probably need to rip the top board to fit. Next fill down to the rafter tails, again ripping the final board to width if necessary.
SCRIBE CUT
FLY RAFTER
FIRST BOARD; START HERE WORK DOWN
WORK UP
SCRAP T&G 1x6 T&G BOARDS RAFTER TAILS
2x2 NAILER 1-1/2" DRIP CAP UTILITY KNIFE
11
Screw a 2x2 nailer to the 4x4 wall tie at each gable end. Tack on the drip cap and then cut and nail the gable boards to the rafters and 2x2s with 2-in. galvanized siding nails. Mark and cut each board to make a clean line along the rafter. Itll show.
12
Notch the grooved edge of your first 1x6 roof board, cutting it at a 45-degree angle with a utility knife so it fits over the two 4x4 wall ties. Nail it to each TONGUE rafter with two 2-1/2 in. galvanized nails. Work your way up the roof, making sure to drive the tongues and grooves tightly together as you go. Then install the boards down from the first board, working them around the 4x4s (inset). Continue down to the rafter tails.
52
Screen House
Adding a layer of plywood over the 1x6s stiffens the roof and provides enough thickness so the shingle nail tips wont poke through. First add the 1x2 fascia trim (Figure A) to the bottom of the rafter, setting it 1/2 in. higher than the edge of the 1x6. Itll cover the edge of the plywood. Cut the plywood so the edge of each piece falls over a rafter and stagger the seams. Snap chalk lines to mark the rafter positions for accurate nailing. A stray nail will be visible on the interior. Cutting the plywood to fit around the wall ties is fussy work (Photo 13). Oversize the hole about 1/2 in. to make the plywood slide on easier. To prevent cracking the rafter tails, predrill and screw the plywood along the lower edge.
1/2 PLYWOOD
WALL TIE CUTOUT
1x2 CEDAR TRIM IS FLUSH WITH PLYWOOD
13
Mark out the location of the 4x4 wall ties on the 1/2-in. plywood roof sheathing, cut a square hole with a jigsaw and slip the plywood onto the roof. Nail through the plywood and 1x6s into the rafters every 8 in. with 2-1/2 in. galvanized nails.
2x8 RIDGE BEAM 2X8 2
Building the front porch

First set the porch posts. Measure and mark the post position on the deck (Figure A) and use a plumb bob to transfer the location to the 4x4 ties. We used a 4x4 metal post plate to slightly raise the post off the deck to prevent rot. Set the posts with two 3-in. metal angle brackets on top and screws through the plate into the decking on the bottom. To prepare for setting the rafters, screw a temporary brace that connects the ends of the 4x4 wall ties. Make sure that the outside width is 8 ft. 7 in. Next set a temporary vertical support (150-1/4 in. long) centered and plumb for the ridge beam to rest on. Cut a 45-degree angle on one end of the ridge beam and leave the other end long. Center the ridge beam on the main roof, check it for level, then screw it into place. Fasten your rafters the same as you did for the main roof (Photo 14). The short rafters that meet the main roof are called jack rafters. The compound angle you cut on the end that rests on the roof may be
RIDGE SUPPORT (150-1/4)
45-DEGREE CUT CHALK LINE
JACK RAFTER
TEMPORARY BRACE POST 3" ANGLE BRACKETS
24"
14
Cut and install the ridge and first three pairs of porch rafters following the pattern shown in Figure A, then snap a chalk line from the end of the innermost rafter tail to the ridge. Measure and cut the jack rafters to length (they dont have to be exact). Cut the bottoms of the rafters at a compound 45-degree angle to sit on the roof and the tops at 45 degrees to meet the ridge. Space the rafters 2 ft. on center and screw them to the roof and ridge.
55
COMPOUND 45 ANGLE
JACK RAFTER
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 20 03
Screen House
1x2 NAILER
DRIP EDGE
2x6 GABLE TRIM
2x4 NAILER
RAFTER
45
1x2 FASCIA TRIM
15
Build the gable backer assembly as shown here and in Figure A. Rip a 2x6 at a 45-degree angle, trim the ends at a 45-degree angle to fit flush with the top of the rafters, and screw a 2x4 nailer to the backside (Photo 16). Screw a 1x2 to the top edge of the rafters and slip a drip edge on top of the 2x6. Then nail the gable 1x6 siding to the 2x4 and 1x2s as you did on the other gables.
3/4" FURRING STRIPS
1x6 T&G PORCH BOARDS
tricky the first time. To cut it, tilt the base of your saw to 45 degrees and cut along a 45-degree angle line marked on the end of the rafter. If unsure, practice on a scrap first. Photo 14 shows you how to set the jack rafters. When you fasten the lower end to the plywood, drive the screw in at an angle so the tip doesnt poke through the ceiling inside. Before you remove the braces, screw a crosstie to the backside of the front set of rafters (Figure A). Also cut and attach the pair of decorative diagonals above it. To install the 1x6 siding for the gable end above the door, use the assembly we show in Photo 15 and Figure A, Detail 1. You dont really need the flashing in this protected area, but we included it to match the other gables. In addition, install blocks cut to a 45-degree angle spaced every 24 in. to keep the 2x4 nailer upright (Photo 16). Run the 1x6 siding as before, except that the top edge doesnt have to be exact because it wont be visible. Only a small amount of the porch roof will be visible, so dont waste money and time running the 1x6 tongue-and-groove boards all the way across the porch roof. Instead, cover the exposed part and nail 3/4-in. furring strips to the other rafters (Photo 16). Then add the plywood sheathing.
Shingle the roof

1x6 T&G GABLE BOARDS 2x4 NAILER 1x2 TRIM
45 BLOCKING
16
Nail 1x6 tongue-and-groove boards to the rafters over the exposed part of the porch roof. Add 3/4 x 1-1/2 in. strips to the jack rafters to fur them out. Then measure for the plywood sheathing, cut it and nail it on. Tack up 1x2 fascia trim to cover all plywood and 1x6 edges.
Dont stop now! Once the plywood is on, cover it to make it weatherproof. Staple No. 15 roofing felt over all the roof sheathing. Then run an additional strip lengthwise down each valley. Now take a break. Installing cedar shingles is enjoyable, rewarding work, but its timeconsuming. To speed up the job, rent a 1/2-in. crown pneumatic staple gun and buy a box of 1-in. long staples to
56
Screen House
Materials
Item FLOOR
14' 6x6 pressure-treated beams 14' 2x8 pressure-treated joists 14' 1x8 cedar fascia boards 16' 2x6 cedar decking (to picture frame) 14' 2x6 cedar decking 3" coated deck screws 2-1/2" stainless steel siding nails 5/8" pea rock
Qty.
POST CAP
POST FINIAL
17
3 14 4 4 30 10 lbs. 1 lb. 8 tons 20 6 6 20 4 225 lin. ft. 38 lin. ft. 2 2 2 4 3 4

CLAMP 1x2 TRIM GOTHIC FENCE POST
WALLS
8' 2x4 cedar studs 10' 2x4 cedar plates and sills 14' 2x4 cedar plates and sills 8' 2x2 cedar nailers 8' 4x4 cedar corner posts Tongue-and-groove cedar for knee walls Tongue-and-groove cedar for gingerbread 9' long 5-1/4" decorative porch posts 14' 4x4 wall ties 10' 4x4 wall ties 8' 4x4 wall ties 10' king posts and braces 10' long 1-1/2" drip edge
Assemble the decorative post details and clamp the gable post to the rafter so the bottom of the cap is 3 in. higher than the ridge. Plumb it and secure with 3-in. screws from the backside of the rafter. Butt the 1x2 trim into it.
ROOF
10' 2x6 cedar rafters 12' 2x6 cedar gable trim 12' 2x4 cedar nailer 8' 2x6 cedar crossties 8' 2x2 cedar nailers 14' 2x6 cedar blocking 18' 2x8 cedar ridge 10' 2x8 cedar ridge Cedar 1x6 tongue-and-groove for gables Cedar 1x2 trim Cedar 1x2 nailer Cedar 1x12 brackets 6' 4x4 Gothic fence posts 4x4 post caps 3-1/2" dia. round finials Cedar 1x6 tongue-and-groove ceiling 1/2" plywood roof sheathing No. 15 roofing felt Cedar shingles Cedar ridge shingles (12/12 pitch) 1x1 screen and door stops 10' pieces of brown aluminum valley flashing 10' long 1-1/2" drip edge 5x5 post plates 1/4" x 6" lag screws with washers 2-1/2" stainless steel siding nails 2-1/2" coated screws Polyurethane construction adhesive 30 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 350 lin. ft. 92 lin. ft. 18 lin. ft. 30 lin. ft. 3 3 3 990 lin. ft 11 sheets 2 rolls 4.5 squares 30 lin. ft. 315 lin. ft. 3 3 2 4 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 1 tube
VALLEY FLASHING NO. 15 ROOFING FELT CHALK LINE FOR ALIGNMENT
18
58
Staple No. 15 felt to the roof and nail valley flashing in the valleys, cut to overhang the roof edge by 3/4 in. Lay the shingles according to the directions that come on each package. We set the shingles at a 5-in. exposure and used a 1x2 as a guide to keep them even.
CUTOUT 1x6 T&G CEDAR 2x4
30-1/4" 2x2 NAILER
BOTTOM Screen Room PLATE 2x6 CEDAR
2x6 CEDAR DECK BOARD
PERIMETER Decorative pieces DECK BOARD
Rafter tails, brackets, gingerbread and gable posts are details that look like expensive custom pieces. But the fact is, theyre easy to make. Weve 1x8 RAFTER TAIL provided scaled templates you can enlarge on a photocopier and then CEDAR 2x8 TRIM JOISTS cut out for full-size templates. 1. The acorn gingerbread is made from a BLOCKING 30-in. length of 1x6. Trace one acorn in the 6x6 BEAM center and a half on each 6" end. Make the cut carefully with a jigsaw; its easy to snap off the tip. (I ruined several!) Construction 6" adhesive will keep them from cracking once theyre installed (Photo 4).
LANDSCAPE FABRIC PEA ROCK 2x8
EACH SQUARE = 1"
fasten the shingles to the roof. Space the shingles 1/4 in. apart to allow for expansion and stagger the joints between shingles by at least an inch. Double the first row and let the edges overhang by 3/4 in. Photo 18 shows 71-3/4" you how to deal with the valley. For complete instructions, visit the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureaus Web 45 site at 92-5/8" www.cedarbureau.org.
Setting the screens

1. ACORN GINGERBREAD GINGER BREAD ACORN
3-1/2" We special-ordered our screens to save time and money ($38 per 30 x 14-3/4" 66-in. screen; see Buyers Guide RAFTER LAYOUT below).Youll need 15. Ask for a 10-degree bevel on the bottom to fit the tapered sill and order them painted. We painted ours, but it was time consuming. Nail 3/4 x 3/4-in. stops to the 2x4 uprights and top plate to secure the screens. We also ordered a simple cedar screen door ($140), complete with the hinges and latch set.
3/25/03 03
GABLE WALL 2. Corner brackets SECTION VIEW are cut out of a 2x8 RIDGE GE cedar 1x12. Flipflop the pattern down the length of the board to mini2x6 RAFTER T&G CEDAR 2x6 RAFTER AR mize waste. Avoid large knots. NAILER 3/4" Predrill 3/4" and nail the brackets with FILLER 1-1/2" 2-1/2 1-1/2"in. galvaDRIP CAP DRIP CAP TOP nized casing nails E PLATE in each corner of the screen house after you install the 3/4" x 3/4"3/4" x 3/4" SCREEN Also set SCREEN screens. 3. The gable posts STOP 65-3/4" 65-3/4" STOP them on each side (Photo 17) are made of the decorative from cedar fence parts 1/8" 1/8" EACH SMALL DRIPNotch them 10 DRIP post. and Gothic style posts SQUARE = 1" CUT 1/4" CUT slightly VEL BEVEL to fit flipped upside down. around the metal /4" A home center or fence 3/4" x 3/4" x angle brackets. 30" x 66" company will have all 1/4" 30" x 66" SCREEN SCREEN Apply construction the parts (about $25). (BEVEL (BEVEL adhesive BOTTOM) to the BOTTOM) Or craft your own to 2x4 SILL edge and toenail in fit your taste. place. CORNER BRACKET 2. CORNERCORNER BRACKET BRACKET 1x6 CEDAR
1x6 CEDAR DECORATIVE DECORATIVE CUTOUT CUTOUT 4. Rafter tails are
Finishing details
Although the drama in this screen house lies in its overall structure, several decorative details add more punch. Up alongside each king post we added 4x4 braces for better looks (Figure A). And to keep the bugs out, we nailed 2x6 blocking ripped at a 45-degree angle between each rafter on top of the 4x4s (Figure A).
Buyers Guide
Screens and door: Coppa Woodworking Inc., (310) 548-5332. www.coppawoodworking.com Posts: Mad River Woodworks, (800) 446-6580. www.madriverwoodworks.com Stain: Cabot, (800) 877-8246. www.cabotstain.com * Barn red: semisolid * Allagash: semitransparent * Colonial yellow: semitransparent
NAILER
easiest
30-1/4"
1x6 traced1x6 from a full-size temT&G T&G 30-1/4" CEDAR plate. CEDAR Use our template to
NAILER
CEDAR K BOARD
mark the 2x4 first rafter, cut it 2x4 BOTTOM BOTTOM out and then use that rafter PLATE PLATE as a pattern for the rest. 2x6 CEDAR 2x6 CEDAR Use your jigsaw and cut PERIMETER PERIMETER DECK BOARD DECK BOARD curves slowly to make clean, accurate edges. 4. RAFTER TAIL
60
EACH SQUARE = 1"
Art Direction DAVID FARR and MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography MIKE KRIVIT Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
1x8 1x8 2x8 CEDAR CEDAR 2x8 TRIM JOISTS JOISTS TRIM 2x8
RAFTER RAFTER TAIL TAIL
garden
Ultimate
in one, this rustic cedar shed will keep everyone

26
JULY / AUGUST 20 03 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Two sheds
happy.
shed
T
by Jeff Gorton
his cedar garden shed is the perfect storage solution for every gardener and family member who enjoys
working and playing in the back yard. At 8 ft. x 9-1/2 ft., the storage area has loads of room for all your lawn and garden equipment. And you can access it easily through the 46-in. wide sliding door in the back. With the addition of workbenches and shelves, the smaller 5-1/2 ft. x 8-ft. room makes a perfect potting shed. The concrete paver floor, natural cedar siding and steel roofing add up to a low-maintenance shed that will last for generations.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
27
12-1/2" SQ. VENT OPENING 1x4 x 12" SQ. VENT BOX SCREEN 1x4 TRIM 2x4 FRAMING LAID FLAT 1x6 FASCIA 2x4 FLY RAFTER 2x6 CROSSTIE 2x4 BLOCKING CANTILEVERED 2x4
RIDGE
ROOF PANELS 2x8 RAFTER, 1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSET 2x4 PURLINS
Figure A Shed Details

2x4 BLOCKING 1x2 ON EDGE 1x4 RAKE TRIM 7/8"x7/8" BATTENS SIDEWALL FLASHING
1x6 FASCIA 2x4 SUBFASCIA DOUBLE 2x6 HEADER (DOORS AND WINDOWS)
6
22" x 29" BARN SASHES EXTRA CRIPPLE STUDS
2x4 TREATED PLATE 2x4 STUD WALLS 24" O.C. 5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD 7/8"x7/8" BATTENS 12" O.C. 30" x 80" WOOD STORM/SCREEN DOOR 2x3 x 53-1/2" SLATS ( SPACE AT 12")
2x6 BEAMS 1x1 x 7" 2x2 x 14"; CENTER ON VERTICAL 1x8 TRIM
6"
6"
1-1/2"
SILL STOCK; MITER CORNERS 4x4 CEDAR POST
3" 4-1/2" 4x4 POST 2x6 BEAMS 1" POST TOP 1" LEVEL WITH 1x6 FASCIA
4x4 TREATED POST 1x4 TRIM
DETAIL 1
DETAIL 2
28
2x8 SHORT RAFTER CANTILEVERED 2x4 2x4 PURLIN
Ultimate garden shed
2" OF BLOCKING
2x4 SUBFASCIA
DETAIL 3
2x4 BLOCKING 2x4 PURLINS 1x6 FASCIA 2x4 FLY RAFTER 5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD 1x4 RAKE TRIM
FLASHING 1x4 TRIM 1/2" PLYWOOD
1x6 TRIM
7
1x10 TRIM; RIP TO WIDTH
uilding this shed isnt complicated, nor does it require more than basic carpentry experience. Still, its a big job, and if youve built a deck or done other major remodeling, youll find this project the next step up in skill level. Itll take you and a helper three or four weekends to build plus another few days to seal the siding and put on the finishing touches. The total cost of materials for the shed shown is about $3,600, including $360 for the concrete paver floor and $250 for the metal roofing. If this is a little beyond your budget, you could easily save several hundred dollars by simplifying the exterior trim details and using less expensive flooring material. In addition to basic hand tools, youll need a circular saw, drill, table saw and power miter saw.Youll also need 6-ft. and 10-ft. stepladders to work on the roof and tall gable ends. If you really want to speed up the work and simplify your job, rent scaffolding with a set of casters.
Check with the cityyou may need a permit

Most cities require a building permit for large sheds. Call the building department to find out. This shed is 120 sq. ft. Also check for restrictions on where the shed can be placed on the lot. If youre planning to build near the edge of your lot, you may have to hire a surveyor to locate the lot lines. Start this planning process at least a month in advance just in case theres a snag. A few days before you intend to start digging, call (888) 258-0808 to have buried utility lines located and marked.
5
2x SILL 22" x 41-1/4" BARN SASHES BATTENS
Youll have to special-order the roofing

2" (ALL OUTER EDGES) 2x4 TREATED PLATE 2" x 18" x 18" CONCRETE PAVERS GRAVEL 6x6 TREATED 2x10 TREATED
Most of the materials for this shed are readily available at home centers and lumberyards.You may have to order the barn sash windows and the grooveless cedar plywood, however. If your lumber supplier doesnt sell the metal roofing material, check local roofing or farm supply retailers. A few colors are stocked, but youll have to special-order the roofing materials to get a custom color or have the panels cut to the exact length you need. Check p. 47 for the list of the roofing materials.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
29

Start by outlining the shed with stakes and string
The first step in the construction process is to accurately stake out the perimeter (Photo 1). Were using 2x10s as our foundation with 6x6s resting on them. The 2x10s will stick out beyond the 6x6s about 2 in., so set your stakes 2 in. beyond the shed dimensions to mark their outer edges. Use a line level ($3) to level the strings. Then double-check the distance between stakes and make sure the diagonal measurements of each rectangular section are equal before you start digging. Remove all the sod or other organic material inside the perimeter of the strings. Then dig the trench and set the 2x10 footing plates on a bed of gravel (Photo 1). Roughly level the 2x10s by measuring down from the string. Then fine-tune with a 4-ft. or longer level. Take your time here. An out-of-level foundation will cause you problems later. Complete the wood foundation by cutting the 6x6s to length and nailing them together at the corners (Photo 2 and Fig. B). The edge of the 6x6s should be about 2 in. inside the string line and the top should be level with the string. Square the 6x6s (Photo 2) and level them with shims. Then toe-screw them into the 2x10s and pack gravel around the perimeter to hold everything in place.Youll need about 3-1/4 yards of 3/8-in. to 1/2-in. crushed gravel.
LEVEL STRING LINE
5" DEEP GRAVEL
TREATED 2 x10
TREATED 6x6
1
MEASURE FROM STRING TO 2 x10
Drive stakes 2 in. beyond the perimeter dimensions (see Figure B). Check for square by measuring diagonally (as in Photo 2). Tie a string to the stakes level at the height of the future floor. Dig an 18-in. wide trench down to 12 in. below the string. Fill the trench with 5 in. of gravel and level the top. Cut treated 2x10s so their outside edges are even with the string and tamp them into the gravel with a sledge until theyre level and 5-1/2 in. below the string line.
4' LEVEL
EQUAL MEASUREMENTS
10" GALVANIZED SPIKES
2
12" LONG 1/4" BIT
Cut treated 6x6s to form the perimeter of the shed. Check with a level and slip treated shims under them at low spots. Drill pilot holes and nail the corners together with galvanized timber spikes. Adjust the 6x6s until the diagonal measurements are equal. Toe-screw the 6x6s to the 2x10s to hold them in place.
30
Figure B Foundation
2x4 TREATED PLATE 6x6 2" 2x10 2" x 18" x 18" CONCRETE PAVERS GRAVEL
TYPICAL SECTION
5' 10"
GRAVEL BASE
8'
16' 4"
TREATED 2x10s
8' 4"
9' 10"
5' 6"
8'
16"
TREATED 6x6s
8'
9' 6"
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
31
HAND TAMPER
DIAMOND BLADE 2" DEEP NOTCH 18" CEMENT PAVERS
Add 3-in. layers of gravel and pack each layer with a hand tamper to within 2 in. of the top. Drag a notched 2x4 over the gravel to create a flat, level base for the concrete pavers.
Lay the pavers over the gravel, adding or removing gravel as needed to level the tops. Mount a diamond blade in a circular saw and cut pavers to fit. Make multiple passes with the saw, increasing the cuts depth by 1/2 in. each time.
Loose-laid pavers are easy to install and allow water to drain

You can choose any size or style paver you like for the floor. Notch the 2x4 screed board to match the thickness of the pavers you choose (Photo 3). 85-1/4" The 18-in. square cement 19" pavers we picked cost about $7 each. We used a circular saw and diamond blade to cut the 10-3/4" 3-1/2" 2-in. thick pavers to fit, but if I had it to do over, Id rent
19"
2-3/4" 14-3/4" 45 PURLINS 2-3/4"

45-DEGREE ANGLE
19" 51-1/2" 19"
19"
45
2x8 10-3/4" 3-1/2"
2x8
2x8 PATTERN RAFTER SPEED SQUARE
Figure C Rafter Details
5
1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSET MEASURE FOR STUDS
Mark and cut a pair of long and a pair of short rafters from the dimensions in Figure C. Check the fit (Photo 6), then use them as a pattern for the rest.
12-1/2"
2x8 RAFTER
a larger masonry-cutting saw instead ($40 per day). We offset the joints for a more interesting look and to avoid having to keep the pavers precisely aligned.
POSITIONING BLOCKS
FRAMING SQUARE GABLE END STUDS

2x
TIE SS RO C 6
Align the rafters with the outside edges of the 6x6s as shown to build three large trusses. Do the same on the narrow end to build three small trusses. Use temporary wood blocks to center the tops of the rafters on the end wall while you nail them together with triangular plywood gussets. Add flat 2x4s 24 in. on center to create one small and two large gable end trusses. Build one large and two small trusses without the studs.
32
STUD MARKING
TRIMMERS TEMPORARY BRACE KING STUD
TOP PLATE TREATED BOTTOM PLATE
SPACER BLOCKS WINDOW SPACERS
STUD MARKS
OPENING MARKS (TRIMMERS) DOUBLE SILL
Cut treated 2x4 bottom plates and 2x4 top plates and tack them into place around the perimeter. Mark window and door rough openings and the edge of each stud according to the dimensions in Figure D.
CRIPPLE STUDS
Build the roof trusses before you build the walls

First cut the rafters according to the dimensions in Figure C. Then cut three 9-ft. 6-in. and three 5-ft. 6-in. 2x6 crossties. Arrange the truss parts on the shed floor as shown in Photo 6. The angles at the top should fit tightly together. Tack
5' 6"
Assemble the walls on the floor. Align the edge of full-length studs with the marks and nail them in between the top of bottom plates with pairs of 16d nails. Cut and assemble the double 2x6 headers and nail them into place between the king studs. Cut trimmers and nail them into place under the ends of the headers. Cut and assemble the cripples and doubled rough sills to form the window openings. Finally, build the short posts that separate the windows and toenail them into place.
DOUBLE 2x6 HEADER WITH 1/2" PLYWOOD SPACER
2-1/4" DOUBLE 2x4 SILLS POST FOOTING
24"
8'
23-1/4"
32" DOOR OPENING
90" (WALL HEIGHT)
24-1/4" WINDOW OPENINGS
3"
CRIPPLE STUD 45-3/4" (SHORT WINDOW) 33-1/2" (TALL WINDOW)
16'
DOUBLE 2x4 SILLS
24"
positioning blocks at the top and mark the bottoms on the 6x6 as a guide for building the remaining trusses. Repeat this process at the narrow end to build the three small trusses. Connect the pairs of rafters at the top with a plywood gusset and ten 6d nails. Connect the bottoms with a 2x6 nailed to each rafter with three 10d nails. On the end trusses, cut and nail additional 2x4 framing as shown to provide nailing for the plywood siding and square openings for the screened vents (Photo 6). Mark the location of the purlins along the tops of each truss (Figure C). Cut the purlins to length and mark the truss locations on them as well (Figure E).
23-1/4"
85-1/2" (STUDS)
OPENING 31-1/4" (SHORT WINDOW) 43-1/2" (TALL WINDOW)
24"
46-1/2" SLIDING DOOR OPENING (CENTERED)
24" WINDOW OPENINGS
8'
24"
Frame the walls on the floor and stand them up

Cut the plates to length (Figure D) and tack them to the 6x6 exactly where theyll go to check the fit. Leave them tacked while you lay out the stud and opening locations on the plates. This eliminates guesswork. Study Photos 8, 9, 11 and 12 to help with the exact header and stud assembly details.
24"
24" 9' 6"
24"
22-5/8"
23-1/4"
2x4 TREATED PLATE (TYPICAL)
Figure D Wall Framing Plan

34
WALL FRAMING HEIGHTS

Then cut the studs and other wall framing parts to length according to the dimensions shown in Figure D. Build the headers by sandwiching a layer of 1/2-in. plywood between 2x6s and nailing them together with pairs of 10d sinkers spaced every 8 in. Choose a pair of straight 2x4s for each corner and nail them together with short lengths of scrap 2x4s as spacers. Once all the parts are cut and the headers and corners are built, youre ready to assemble the walls. Build the long back wall first. Lay the bottom plate along the 6x6 and place a stud at each mark. Sight down the length of each stud and set it with the bowed (crowned) side up. Line up the top plate over the studs and nail the plates to the studs with two 16d sinker nails into each stud. Were using a framing nailer (Photo 8) to speed things up. This is a dangerous tool. We recommend you avoid this tool and hand-nail this entire project unless you have prior experience using a framing nailer. Stand and brace the back wall (Photo 9), then the front walls, and finally the end walls. Tie them together with doubled top plates (Photo 10) and finally plumb and brace the corners (Photo 11).
TEMPORARY BRACE
CLEAT
Stand and brace the front and back walls first, making sure the tops tilt out slightly to allow room for the walls that fit in between. Align the outside edge of the walls with the 6x6s and nail down through the bottom plates. Build the end and center walls and stand them up. Remove the temporary braces and nail the corners together, making sure the top plates are aligned with each other.
STRAIGHT BOARD (ORANGE) SPACER BLOCK (GREEN)
DOUBLED TOP PLATE
16d NAIL OVERLAP CORNERS
WINDOW SPACER
4' LEVEL
10
Tie the walls together with a second top plate that overlaps at the corners. Nail with pairs of 16d nails at the ends and one nail centered over each stud location.
TEMPORARY DIAGONAL BRACE
SPACER BLOCK (GREEN)
Figure E Purlin Details

9-3/4" 48" 48" 9-3/4" MEDIUM PURLIN (7 REQ'D) 115-1/2" 9-3/4" 48" 48" 48" RAFTER LOCATIONS 48" 9-3/4"
11
211-1/2" LONG PURLIN (3 REQ'D) SHORT PURLIN (3 REQ'D) 105-3/4"

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JULY / AUGUST 20 03
48"
48"
9-3/4"
Tape a level to a long straight board with equal spacers at each end. Push or pull the wall until its plumb and hold it in this position while your helper nails on a temporary diagonal brace. Repeat this process for each wall. Plumb both end walls first. Then sight down the long back wall to make sure its straight before you nail the diagonal brace across the center wall.
35

GABLE END TRUSS INTERMEDIATE TRUSS
12
LONG PURLIN
Erect the two end trusses and brace them with 2x4s nailed to the walls. Line up the outside edges with the walls and toenail them into place. Align the one long purlin and toenail it into place. Tip up the remaining trusses and toenail them to the purlin. Toenail the ends of the trusses to the top plates.
Stand the trusses and connect the purlins

Once the walls are plumbed and braced and the trusses are built, youre ready to frame the roof. Itll take shape quickly, but youll need some help lifting and positioning the trusses. Also line up a few tall ladders or scaffolding. The key to this roof is to make sure truss positions are marked on the top plates, purlin positions on the rafters, and rafter positions on the purlins. Then all will go together smoothly. Start by nailing a long 2x4 brace to the end walls. It should extend up to the rafter (Photo 12). Once these are in place, you can install the two end trusses and connect them with a purlin (Photo 12). Then install the intermediate truss. Toenail everything with 8d nails and add metal hurricane ties where theres space to do so (Photo 13). Complete the roof framing by building the cantilevered overhangs. Cut lengths of 2x4 and line them up over the ends of the trusses to form the cantilevered overhangs. Connect them to the trusses with metal tie plates (Photo 13 inset). Then complete the overhangs by cutting and nailing up the 2x4 rough fascias. H-1 HURRICANE Finally, cut TIE and install the blocking to METAL TIE PLATE complete the roof framing.
4
2x 4 BRACE
PURLINS
2x4 BLOCKING HURRICANE TIE
LEAVE 1-1/2" SPACE
CANTILEVERED 2x4
2x4 SUBFASCIA
PURLIN
13
Nail on the remaining purlins using hurricane ties (inset photo) where possible. Complete the roof framing as shown by adding the cantilevered 2x4s that support the overhang and nailing on the 2x4s that form the rough fascia. Finally, add 2x4 blocking between the purlins on the end walls to keep out birds.
36
CA NT ILE VE RE D
2x4 SUBFASCIA
2x

Install the metal roofing
Since this design doesnt include a metal fascia that would typically cover the edge of the metal roofing at the gable ends, youll have to cut the first rib from the starting sheet to leave a flat spot (Photo 14). We tried tin snips and abrasive metal-cutting blades but settled on a standard 24-tooth carbide blade mounted in a circular saw as the best method for making the long, straight cuts in the metal sheets. Be careful, though. The blade throws metal chips quite a distance. Keep bystanders away and make sure to wear safety glasses, hearing protection and leather gloves. Smooth the cut edges with a mill bastard file to remove sharp burrs. Photos 15 and 16 show how to install the sheets. Screw down each sheet before moving to the next. Use special hex head roofing screws that have a built-in rubber washer to seal the hole. Set the last sheet into place, overlapping at the seams as usual, and mark it 1 in. past the fascia for cutting. On the backside of the roof, youll have to notch one panel where the roof transition occurs. If your last panel is a few inches short of the end as ours was, rather than cutting a 2-in. strip, cut a piece 13 in. wide and run it underneath the previous panel so the seam wont show from below. Its difficult to reach the top of the roof to install the ridge cap after all the roofing is on. One solution is to complete one side of the roof, then cut the ridge and screw it down over the completed side. Slide the panels on the opposite side of the roof under the ridge and screw down the ridge as you fasten each panel.
CAUTION
Keep bystanders out of the saws path. Metal chips fly long distances.
CLAMP
UPSIDE-DOWN ROOF PANEL
STRAIGHT BOARD
CLAMP BACKER BOARD
14
Cut metal panels with a 24-tooth carbide blade in a circular saw. Clamp the panel between a straight board to guide the saw and a 2x4 that backs up the cut. Cut the first rib from the starting piece to create a flat edge (see Photo 15).
LINE UP WITH PURLINS
CUT EDGE
FULL ROOF PANEL HEX DRIVER SCREW ONE SIDE SCREW BOTH SIDES
OVERLAP SEAM 1x6 CEDAR FASCIA
OVERLAPPED SEAM
15
Nail 1x6 cedar fascia boards to the 2x4 subfascia boards. Overhang the metal panel 1 in. on the end and 2 in. on the bottom and attach it to the purlins with special self-sealing hex head screws. Overlap the second panel onto the first and screw it into place (Photo 16). Measure and cut the last panel to overhang the cedar trim by 1 in. Finally, cap the top with the metal ridge cap (Figure A).
16
Drive special self-sealing hex head screws into the purlins to secure the panels. Place screws along one side of each rib and on both sides of ribs where panels overlap. Snug up screws to compress the rubber washer but dont overdrive.
RUBBER WASHER
SELF-SEALING HEX HEAD SCREWS
38

MARK STUDS
TOPS LINE UP
5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD
6d GALVANIZED SIDING NAILS EQUAL DISTANCE
17
Cut 5/8-in. cedar plywood panels to fit and nail them to the studs with galvanized siding nails. Lap the bottom of the panels 1 in. over the 6x6. Complete the lower panels and window and door installation and trim before installing the panels on the gable end trusses.
Finish the exterior with cedar plywood panels and cedar battens
Since all of the cedar plywood panels for the walls are the same height, you can start by marking and cutting them all to 91 in. long. A drywall square works great for marking the 4x8 sheets. Mark and cut from the backside of the sheets. The studs are spaced so youll be able to start each wall with a fullwidth sheet and cut the last sheet to fit. Drive 6d galvanized nails every 6 in. around the perimeter DOOR of the panels and at 8-in. inter1/2" vals along the studs (Photo 17). x 7/8"
1x4 CEDAR FRAME
22" x 41-1/4" BARN SASH
18
Build 1x4 cedar frames for the barn sash, allowing for a 1/8-in. gap around the sash. Hinge the sash at the top and nail 1/2-in. x 7/8-in. stops around the inside. Level the frames in the openings and adjust with shims until the gap between the sash and frame is even and the space between pairs of windows is equal on the top and bottom. Nail through the frame and shims from inside to secure the windows. Cut off the shims.
Build your own windows with barn sash and cedar boards
SIDE JAMB
1/2" PLYWOOD DOUBLE 2x6 HEADER HEAD JAMB 1/2" x 7/8" STOP DETAIL 4 (FIG. A) DOOR/WINDOW HEAD JAMB
1x4 CEDAR 1x6 CEDAR DOOR/ WINDOW
WINDOW SASH 2x SILL; RIP AT 15 2"
WINDOW JAMB
DOUBLE 2x4 SILL
DETAIL 5 (FIG. A) WINDOWSILL
Adding the windows, doors and trim can be time consuming. But its these details that make the shed look STOP sharp. Patience pays off here. Construct the window 1x8 CEDAR; frames by screwing together 1x4 cedar boards to form a RIP TO FIT box thats about 1/4 in. wider and taller than the window NOTCH sash.Youll have to pull out your table saw to cut out the SILL TO FIT DOOR 1/2-in. x 7/8-in. stops, as well as the sills (15-degree TRIM 1/2" angles), battens and window trim. Mount the larger barn x 7/8" WINDOW STOP SASH sash in the frames with a pair of 3-in. screen door hinges DETAIL 6 (FIG. A) at the top. We chose to mount the smaller sashes DOOR/WINDOW between stops and leave them permanently closed. Then SIDE JAMB mount storm window hold-open hardware 10 in. up on each side to hold the windows open or closed. Finally, shim and install the windows (Photo 18). 1/2" Add the trim and battens. Position the battens 1x8 SIDE x 7/8" CEDAR STOP JAMB so every other one falls over a stud (24 in. on center). That way, you can use 8d galvanized finish nails. Fasten intermediate battens with 4d MITER SILL AT nails and construction adhesive. A layout stick CORNER (Photo 20) speeds up the layout. After youve completed the siding, trim and drip cap on the 1x10 CEDAR; RIP TO FIT WINDOW SASH lower walls, seal the gap between the small DETAIL 7 (FIG. A) front roof and the gable end wall with sidewall WINDOW CORNER DETAIL flashing (Photo 22).
40

The optional cedar arbor is a great place to hang plants or grow vines
You can be as creative as you want with this part of the project. Figure A shows how we built our arbor. The key is to temporarily brace the post and level across from the bottom of the fascia to mark the height and cut the notches. Then its a simple matter to plumb the post, attach the beams, and finally top them with the 1-1/2 in. x 2-1/2 in. cedar lattice pieces. Figure F Gable and Eave Details We screwed the lattice through the fascia and 9-3/4" 1x4 RAKE TRIM 2x4 PURLIN into the 2x4 subfascia 2x4 2x4 FLY RAFTER BLOCKING with 4-in. galvanized 1x6 FASCIA deck screws run in at 2x8 RAFTER a 45-degree angle.
2x4 FRAMING (FLAT) 5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD 2x6 CROSSTIE
1x4 1x6
WINDOW SILL 45-DEGREE MITER
15-DEGREE BEVELS
16d GALVANIZED CASING NAIL
19
Rip 2-in. wide cedar sills with 15-degree bevels on each side with a table saw. Cut 45-degree miters where the sills wrap around the walls. Nail the sill pieces below the windows with 16d galvanized casing nails.
METAL DRIP CAP 1x4 1/2" PLYWOOD
2x4 BLOCKING
2x4 STUD WALL
1x6 5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD GABLE (END WALL) DETAIL
CANTILEVERED 2x4
2x4 PURLIN 2x8 RAFTER
19-1/2"
LAYOUT STICK
2x4 BLOCKING
10"
2x6 CROSSTIE 1/2" PLYWOOD SPACER (TYPICAL) 7' 6" (WALL HEIGHT) 2" CONCRETE PAVERS 1" GRAVEL FILL
2x4 SUBFASCIA 1x6 FASCIA

12"
1x4s 1x6
5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD

7/8" x 7/8" BATTENS
2x4 STUDS 24" O.C. 2x4 TREATED PLATE
20
Cut cedar boards to fit around windows and doors and nail them into place. Continue the top 1x6 cedar board across the end of the shed. Shim out the 1x4 board over this with 1/2-in. plywood strips and add a metal drip cap overtop before cutting and installing the gable end plywood. Mark the batten locations every 12 in. and nail them up with galvanized siding nails.
2" 2x10 TREATED 6x6 TREATED
EAVE AND WALL DETAIL
42

Simple shelves and benches add storage and workspace inside
We fitted the smaller side of the shed with two full-length workbenches and 1x6 wall shelves. The workbenches are simply 2x4 frames screwed to the studs and supported by angled 2x4 braces (lead photo). We covered the tops with three 1x6 boards for a total width of 16-1/2 in. For the shelves, we notched 1x6 boards to fit around each stud and supported them by nailing 2x4 spacers to the studs under each shelf.
TEMPORARY SHIMS
3" x 3" STORM DOOR HINGE
1/2" SPACE
21
Cut the wood storm door 3/16 in. narrower and 1/2 in. shorter than the framed opening. Hold it in place with shims while you attach it with storm door hinges. Install the storm door latch and a spring or closer if desired.
NOTCH AROUND 2x4
1x4 PICTURE FRAME
SIDEWALL FLASHING
INSECT SCREEN
1-1/2" METAL DRIP CAP
23
22
Build 12-in. square frames of 1x4 cedar and cover them with screen. Build mitered 1x4 picture frames and nail them to the front of the screened boxes. Shim and screw the screened vents into the openings in the ends of the shed.
Using a tin snips, cut and fit sidewall flashing to fit around the 2x4 framing at the top and the drip cap at the bottom. Nail the flashing to the studs and then cover the wall with the cedar plywood, battens and cedar trim. Leave a 1-1/2 in. space between the plywood and the metal roofing.
44

Build the sliding door from a sheet of plywood
1-1/4" SCREWS
SLIDING DOOR ROLLERS
HANGER BRACKETS 1x3 CEDAR
Referring to Figure G and Photo 24, build the sliding door from a sheet of 5/8-in. cedar plywood. Then mount the heavy-duty sliding door track to the wall of the shed and hang the door. To keep the bottom of the door from bumping into the battens, cut 1-1/2 in. from the bottom of each batten thats under the track and nail on a horizontal 1x2 for the door to ride against. Keep the bottom of the door from swinging out by mounting a metal 2x4 bar holder to the foundation 6x6 just to the left of the door. (See Figure G below.) Install a gate latch to hold the door shut.
5/8" CEDAR PLYWOOD; 48" x 80-1/2" STOP BLOCK 7/8"x7/8" BATTENS 1x3 TRIM 1x4 1x6
24
Glue and screw 1x3s flat and then 1x3s on edge to the perimeter of a 48-in. x 80-1/2 in. sheet of 5/8-in. thick cedar plywood to create a sliding door. Screw pocket door wheel brackets to the top 4 in. from the ends and centered in the top 1x3.
1x3s (FLAT) 1x4; RIP TO 3" (8'6" OVERALL)
2"
2x4; RIP T0 2-3/4" 1x4; RIP TO 3"

3/8" x 5" LAG SCREW 2-3/4"
TRACK ROLLERS DOOR 1x4 JAMBS
JOHNSON 100 SERIES TRACK
25
Rip a 102-in. 2x4 to 2-3/4 in. and screw it to the wall above the door opening with 5-in. lag screws. Extend the end 2 in. beyond the edge of the door opening. Screw a 5-ft. section of aluminum track to the ripped 2x4 with an additional 42-in. piece to complete the track. Slide the two sets of wheels into the track before wrapping it with 1x3 cedar trim. Finally, hang the door and adjust the rollers until it hangs evenly. Screw small blocks of wood into the track to stop the rollers at each end.
DOOR BAR HOLDER 2x4 1x4 HORIZONTAL 1x2
BATTEN
6x6
1x2 7/8"x7/8" BATTENS 1x2 x 4" CLEAT, GATE HARDWARE 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 8" CLEAT
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
Figure G Sliding Door Detail

46
Protect the cedar with exterior finish

We finished the outside of this shed with an exterior-grade penetrating oil finish. Recoating every few years with a cedar-tinted stain should maintain the natural beauty of the cedar.
Materials List
Item FOUNDATION
3/8" crushed gravel 2x10 x 10' treated 2x10 x 16' treated 6x6 x 6' treated 6x6 x 8' treated 6x6 x 10' treated 18" x 18" cement pavers 3.25 cu. yds. 1 3 2 2 3 45
Qty.
Item
1x6 x 10' cedar 1x6 x 12' cedar 1x8 x 8' cedar 1x10 x 8' cedar
Qty.
10 1 4 1
METAL ROOFING
3' wide x 68" steel roof panels 3' wide x 102" steel roof panels 12/12 pitch ridge caps, 10' lengths Sidewall flashing, 10' length 5 8 2 1 350
WALLS
2x4 x 10' treated 2x4 x 16' treated 2x4 x 8' spf (spruce, pine or fir) 2x4 x 10' spf 2x4 x 16' spf 2x6 x 8' spf 2x6 x 10' spf 1 3 75 2 6 4 2
Self-sealing hex head screws
DOORS AND WINDOWS

30" x 80" wood screen/storm door 22" x 41-1/4" window barn sashes * 22" x 29" window barn sashes * 1 4 3
HARDWARE
1-1/2" metal drip cap, 10' lengths 2 5 lbs. 5 lbs. each 10 lbs. 5 lbs. each 1 lb. 1 lb. each 28 5 36 12 11 4 pairs 1 1 set 9' 1 1 2 tubes 2 sq. ft. 1-1/2" joist hanger nails
ROOF FRAMINGTRUSSES
2x8 x 8' spf 2x8 x 10' spf 2x6 x 16' spf 4' x 8' sheets of 1/2-in. CDX plywood 6 3 3 2
6d and 8d sinker nails 16d sinker nails 4d, 6d and 8d galvanized siding nails 16d galvanized casing nails 3" and 4" deck screws 3/8" x 10" spikes
ROOF FRAMINGPURLINS AND SUBFASCIAS

2x4 x 10' spf 2x4 x 18' spf 14 5
3/8" x 5" lag screws Simpson H-1 hurricane ties Simpson 15-R tie plates 3" screen/storm door hinges Storm window hold-open latches Storm door handle Johnson 1120 series pocket door hangers
ROOF FRAMING OVERHANGS AND BLOCKING

2x4 x 8' spf 26
SIDING
4' x 8' sheets of 5/8" rough cedar plywood 1x4 x 7' cedar (rip to 7/8" for battens) 1x4 x 8' cedar (rip to 7/8" for battens) 15 10 7
Johnson 100 series pocket door track Open bar holder National V13B Gate Latch Construction adhesive Window screen
EXTERIOR CEDAR TRIM

2x6 x 12' cedar (rip to 2" at 15-degree bevel for sills) 1x2 x 8' cedar 1x3 x 8' cedar 1x4 x 8' cedar (rip four of these to 1/2" for stops) 1x4 x10' cedar 1x6 x 8' cedar 1 7 6 29 12 7
CEDAR ARBOR
4x4 x 4' treated 4x4 x 6' cedar 2x6 x 10' cedar 2x6 x 10' cedar (rip to 2-1/2") 1x4 x 8' cedar 1 1 2 4 2
* Barn sashes are available from Lindsay Windows (507-625-4278).
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 20 03
47
Outdoor
Unique sandwich construction achieves the massive look of solid beams with half the effort
by Travis Larson
Living Room
heres nothing quite like kicking back on your own patiountil the sun starts cooking you or the rain begins to fall. But you can easily double your time in the great outdoors with this beautiful pavilion. Just thinkno more rainouts during your next barbecue! And with a roof, you can relax on dry, clean, comfortable, padded furniture, which just cant stand up to the elements on an open patio. All in all, you can give your patio the feel and function of an outdoor living room. But the best part is, this pavilion will add real beauty and value to your home by dressing up that lonely, underused space.
OKits pretty, but can I build it and how much?

While this design may look complicated to the novice carpenter, dont be intimidated. If you have the basic hand power tools, can handle a circular saw and have a bit of remodeling experience, you have the moxie to pull off this project. Well show you some scribe-it, nail-it-up and cut-it-in-place techniques that greatly simplify the tough spots and speed up the project. In fact, another
More OUTDOOR LIVING ROOM

34
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2002
35
11 '
6'
BRACES
6" 14'
10'
8'
2x 4 FOOTPRINT TEMPLATE 2x6 2x8
OUTSIDE OF POST
ASSEMBLE a rectangular template to mark the outer perimeter of the posts and beams. Use the dimensions from your plan and tack together 2x6s and a 2x8 ridge board. Square the template using the 6-8-10 squaring method shown. Nail 2x4s across the corners to keep the template square.
carpenter and I built the basic structure in three leisurely days and spent a fourth day nishing the decorative column skirts. Give yourself and a helper about twice as long and you may nish faster than you think. Besides a carpenters apron outtted with the basic hand tools, all you need are a 4-ft. level, a circular saw, a jigsaw and posthole digging tools. But consider renting a power nailer for a day ($45) to save time and effort for the massive job of nailing down the roof decking. Comparing the before and after photos, you can see that in addition to building the pavilion, we did some major stonework and planting. Those improvements aside, our total materials bill came to about $3,500.
Sandwich framing and 2x6 tongue-and-groove decking construction

The design of this roof resembles traditional post-andbeam construction, but without the headaches of working with heavy, expensive timber and the tricky joinery that goes with it. The posts, beams, rafters and ceiling ties (see Figs. A and B) are built-in-place sandwiches of common 2x4, 2x6, 2x8 and 2x10 smooth cedar lumber. The center board of each sandwich is 2 in. narrower than the outer ones, which lends attractive shadow lines and architectural heft to the building. More OUTDOOR LIVING ROOM
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Outdoor Living Room

FIG. A
ROOF ASSEMBLY
FIG.A ROOF ASSEMBLY
RIDGE2x10s, 2x8 BEAM 2x10s, 2x8 CEILING TIE 2x6s, 2x4 HURRICANE CLIP RIDGE 39" 36" 33" RAFTER 2x6s, 2x4 RIDGE RAFTER: 2x6s, 2x4 RAFTER DECORATIVE BRACE CEILING TIE 1x3 SHINGLE MOLDING BUILDING PAPER SHINGLES 30" BEAM POST 2x6 TONGUEAND-GROOVE DECKING
St St Is Ed Ar Te
BEAM 2x6 TONGUEAND-GROOVE DECKING
24"
32" (TYP.)
RAFTER 2x6s, 2x4 TWO-PIECE 2x8 BEAM 2x10 LEDGER TRIPLE 2x10 (RECESSED) JOIST 1/2" x 5" LAG SCREWS HANGER FASTEN THREE INTO STUDS ON EACH SIDE OF BEAM CENTER 2x4 POST
CEILING TIE 2x6s, 2x4 BEAM2x10s, 2x8
2x10 BEAMS 3' 12'6" 2x6 POSTS 12 6 SLOPE* 7-1/2" WIDE PLOT AND CUT ARCS 2' 2'
10'4" 1' 12 SLOPE* 7
RIGHT AND LEFT DECORATIVE BRACES CUT FROM ONE 2x10 x 8' 14'6" (POST TO POST) 11' ( POST TO HOUSE) 6'8" MINIMUM TO GROUND * NOTE: SLOPES AND RAFTERS ARE DIFFERENT TO ACCOMMODATE HOUSE FEATURES. MAKE THEM THE SAME IF POSSIBLE.
1"
FRONT ELEVATION
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2002
37
Outdoor Living Room

This triple-thick assembly method makes the framing members very strong, which allows for longer spans and wider spacing between members. This technique allows you to overlap and lock all the pieces together for a very strong framework, easier nailing and tighter joints. And, by assembling beams in layers, theyre lighter to lift. Since the rafters are so beefy, you can space them 32 in. apart. But those wide spans call for a roof decking that can handle those spans. Tongue-andgroove 2x6 decking (Photo 18) lls the bill nicely because its very strong, reasonably priced and easy to install. It also looks great on the inside. You can let butt ends of the roof decking fall randomly throughout the roof; its not important that they splice over framing members. But the seams will look more polished if you use a block plane to carve a little chamfer on decking ends where two boards meet.
RIDGE TEMPLATE
2x6 RAFTER BOARDS
'4" 10
'6" 12
BEAM TEMPLATE BEAM TEMPLATE
MINIMUM OF 6'8"
This exible design is easy to customize

We give the basic measurements for the structure in Fig. A, but dont treat them as a cutting list, because youll most likely have to adjust them to t your own home. Adjusting sizes is easy. First you get the beams
MOCK UP the roof framing against the wall. Cut three 4-1/2 x 9-1/4 in. plywood rectangles to simulate the beams and ridge and use 2x6 rafter stock to lay out the rafters. Position the beam templates by drawing vertical lines on the siding with a 4-ft. level and a straight 2x4, using the perimeter template as a guide (Photo 1). Measure halfway between the templates and draw a vertical line to mark the center of the roof. Tack each 2x6 rafter to the siding with a couple of 16d nails crossing at the centerline. Tack the ridge template at the point where the rafters cross, keeping the top two corners even with the rafter tops. DIG 12-in. diameter footing holes to frost depth and pour 6-in. concrete footings in the bottom (Fig. B, p. 54). Then reposition the perimeter template precisely and recheck squareness. Nail the lower post assemblies together with 16d hot-dipped galvanized nails spaced every 4 in. Drop them onto the concrete footings and toenail the assemblies to the template corners. Then plumb 11' TO HOUSE and brace the posts in both directions and 14'6" TO backfill the OUTSIDE holes, packing OF NEXT POST the soil every few inches.
BRACE POSTS OFF FOOTPRINT TEMPLATE
.60 TREATED POSTS
TOENAIL HOLDS POST IN PLACE
.60 TREATED POSTS
More ROOM
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Outdoor Living Room

3" RAFTER POSITIONS
TOP SLIP FORM
TREATED 2x2s 3/4" PLYWOOD
BOTTOM SLIP FORM
CUT and assemble two lower and upper slip forms (used for post trim later; Fig. B, p. 54), then slip them over the posts and let them rest on the patio.
TRACE around the beam templates and the bottom of the ridge templates (Photo 2) and pull them free. Mark the tops and ends of the rafters and remove them. Snap chalk lines 3 in. above the rafters to allow space for the decking and step flashing (Photo 20). Set the circular saw to cut just through the thickest part of the siding and cut out the 3-in. wide strip, leaving the sheathing intact.
1/2"x 5" LAG SCREWS INTO STUDS
SPLICE AT CENTER
TRANSFERRED MARK
1-1/2" GALV. JOIST HANGER NAILS
CUT TO FIT TWO-PART LEDGER
BEAM LOCATION
SNAP chalk lines between the tops and bottoms of the two beams and cut the ledger recess through the siding and sheathing. Cut one end of a 10-ft. 2x10 ledger to match the roof angle, hold it in place, and mark and cut it at the center point. Nail the ledger in place with two 16d galvanized casing nails into each wall stud, except for the studs on each side of the joist hanger position. Repeat for the other ledger half.
BOLT the ledger into the studs on each side of each joist hanger location with three evenly spaced 1/2 x 5-in. lag screws with washers. Nail triple 2x10 joist hangers to the ledger at each beam location with 1-1/2 in. galvanized joist hanger nails, then screw through the large hanger holes with 1/2 x 2-in. lag screws. (First drill 3/8-in. pilot holes for all lag screws.)

42
Outdoor Living Room

Text continued from p. 38
and posts laid out and in position, then you simply measure or scribe the rest of the elements for exact lengths or angles before cutting them to length and installing the parts. On your site, you may need to widen or deepen the structure to miss windows or doors on the house or bridge over existing patios. A barbecue lid works You can grow great for drawing the length or width the arc on the end of of the roof as much the beams. as 2 ft. without compromising structural integrity and shrink it as much as you want. The roof lines can also be altered to miss wall obstructions. We had to steepen the roof slope on one side to miss the bay window you see in Photo 2, p. 38. Under that window, the roof has a 7/12 slope (7 in. of vertical drop for every 12 in. of horizontal distance), while the other side has a 6/12 slope. At a minimum, you should try to have a 4/12 slope if you live in a snowy area. Ask your building inspector for minimum slopes for your area when you pick up the building permit. But remember that steeper pitches may call for longer rafters and more decking. You can gure out required material lengths when you go through the layout exercise we show in Photos 1 and 2.
EXTENDED POST
CUT 2x4 HERE
Tip
BARBECUE LID CURVE
CUT 2x6 EVEN WITH BOTTOM OF LEDGER
EXTEND the posts with 2x4 and 2x6 cedar so that they project beyond the top of the ledger, nailing every 4 in. with 16d casing nails up to the beam height. Cut a 2x10 beam member to length and shape the end. Rest it in the joist hanger, level it and mark the height on the post. Cut only the post 2x6s at that height with your circular saw. Cut the center 2x4 9 in. higher (Fig. A).
More ROOM
NAIL the outer 2x10 beams into the posts center 2x4 with three 10d galvanized box nails and into the joist hanger with 1-1/2 in. joist hanger nails. Plumb and brace the posts as shown. Center and nail the two temporary ridge supports, one to the house and the other to the post braces. (See Bracing as You Build, p. 52.) Cut, place and tack each ridge member in position atop the ridge supports, then recheck the ridge for level and center. Brace the ridge with a couple of 2x4s nailed to the ridge and each beam. Nail the ridge members together from both sides with 10d galvanized box nails.
HOUSE SIDE RIDGE SUPPORT
NAIL TO BRACE YARD SIDE RIDGE SUPPORT 2x6 BRACE HOLDS RIGHT POST PLUMB
RIDGE BRACE
NAIL TO BRACE
BRACE HOLDS LEFT POST PLUMB SHIM TO LEVEL BEAM
44
Outdoor Living Room

TOP OF RAFTER FLUSH WITH RIDGE TOP RAFTER PATTERN RIDGE BEAM TIE-DOWN STRAP RAFTER
Tip
Sight down the beams to make sure theyre straight before installing the rafters. Straighten if necessary and hold them in place with braces until the rafters are on.
10
CUT an approximate 25-degree angle on the first 2x6 rafter and hold it in place against the ridge. Use a 2x4 to scribe the exact angle on the rafter. Use the rafter as a pattern to cut all the 2x6 rafters for that side. Repeat the process on the other side of the ridge.
1 1
LAY OUT the rafter positions on the beams and ridge as shown in Fig. A and toenail the rafters into the ridge with three 16d galvanized nails (where theyll be hidden by the middle board of the sandwich). Nail hurricane tie-down straps to the middle side of the rafters and to the inside of the beams with 1-1/2 in. galvanized joist hanger nails.
46
Selecting the wood

We used smooth dimensional cedar for all of the exposed framing for this pavilion. However, we decided on stained spruce tongue-and-groove 2x6s for the roof decking because cedar decking cost nearly twice as much. You can save about $500 by using standard framing material for the entire structurea smart move if you intend to paint or stain everything to match the house. Even though the structural elements are exposed, you dont need awless lumber for your pavilion for a clean, handsome look. Simply select the lumber with the best faces for the edges and sides that will show. We had all the lumber delivered (in other words, we just got random picks from the lumberyard) and had no problem nding enough good-looking sides and edges. If youre dissatised with the look of any of the lumber, you can always exchange it.
TWO-PIECE MIDDLE 2x8
ALTERNATING 10d GALV. NAILS
INNER 2x10
12
CENTER and nail the two-piece middle 2x8 beam members to the 2x10s with alternating 10d nails spaced every 8 in. Then nail up the inner 2x10s with the same nailing pattern.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2002
47
Outdoor Living Room

RAFTER CUT AND TACKED 3 2 2 2x 4 JUST SHORT OF LEVEL CUT 1" WIDE
MIDDLE CEILING TIE 2x4s
LEVEL CUT
13
PUSH the 2x6 ceiling ties against the rafters and scribe the end cuts to match the underside of the rafters. Number them to avoid confusion. Cut a second 2x6 ceiling tie for each rafter using the ones you scribed as patterns for their mates. Tack one under each rafter with a 10d toenail and save their mates for the other side of the sandwich later.
14
CUT the middle 2x4 ceiling tie boards so theyre flush with the outside of the beams. Nail them to the rafters and the 2x6 ceiling ties with 10d nails spaced every 12 in. along each edge. Cut the 2x4 rafter center boards as shown here and in Fig. A and nail them to the center of the 2x6 rafters. Cut the center 2x4 rafter tails so theyre just short of the horizontal level cut.
Lay it out on the ground and house before digging the footings
The easy way to determine the shape and slope of your roof is to rst lay out the footprint of the posts and beams using the dimensions we give you (Photo 1). Then use a 4-ft. level and a straight board to draw the beam locations on the walls. The height of the bottom of the beams should be at least 6 ft. 8 in. for headbanging clearance (Photo 2). Tack 4-1/2 x 9-1/4 in. beam templates cut from plywood to the wall to simulate beams. Then lay out the roof lines with two 2x6s tacked through the siding to be sure:
I
I I
The rafter tails have a minimum of 6 ft. 8 in. of head clearance. The roof has at least a 4/12 slope. The windows, bays or other wall projections are spaced at least 5 in. above the rafters to leave room for ashing.
This is the time to make nal adjustments to the roof slope and the post-and-beam locations. If everything seems OK, you can start digging your footings. More OUTDOOR LIVING ROOM
48
15
CUT two 4-ft. lengths of 2x10 and tack them between the 2x4 rafter and ceiling tie parts to lay out the curved decorative braces (our positions vary because of the differing roof slopes). Mark the lengths at the 2x4s. Bend and clamp a thin board and trace arcs about 7-1/2 in. apart on both sides. Cut them with a circular saw and jigsaw and nail them into place.
Outdoor Living Room

Foundationgrade posts and oating base skirts
Use .60 foundation-grade treated 2x4s and 2x6s for the lower post sections and the footings (Fig. B, p. 54). You may have to specialorder them, but the added longevity is worth the money and trouble. For the above-ground base skirt framing and sheathing, standard .40 treated material will work just ne. The base skirts are designed to oat, that is, slide up and down the xed posts that they encase. Thats especially important when they rest on a slab or stone surface in cold regions where frost can lift patios when the ground freezes. The skirts can move up and down during freeze/thaw cycles, but the posts, which extend below frost depth, stay putwithout lifting the entire structure. So when you frame and trim the pilaster base skirts, make sure everything ts loosely. If the posts have to penetrate a concrete or stone surface, cut a 20in. square hole for digging the footings (Photo 3). Use a circular saw with a diamond blade and dont worry about making it pretty; the skirt will cover the hole. To prevent settling, just be sure to pack the soil well as you backll around the posts. More OUTDOOR LIVING
2x4 TAIL RAFTERS
CUT HOUSE RAFTER EVEN WITH SLOT
16
NAIL on the previously cut 2x6 rafters and 2x6 ceiling ties to the 2x4s to complete the rafter and tie sandwiches. Place 10d casing nails every 12 in. Toenail the rafters to the ridge beam.
LEVEL CUT
1" SQUARE CUT
17
TRANSFER the rafter tail length from the house rafter to the outermost rafter and snap a chalk line to that mark. Draw the 1-in. end cut with a square and the level cut on both sides of each rafter using a 2- or 4-ft. level. Make the rafter tail square cuts first with the circular saw, then make the horizontal level cuts.
50
POWER NAILER
ROOF JACKS AND 2x10 FOR SAFETY
CHALK LINE
PREPAINTED ROOF BOARD
18
LAY the first course of tongue-and-groove roof decking with the groove side facing downhill flush with the rafter ends. Nail the roof decking into one rafter of each rafter pair with two 10d nails. Select lengths so butt seams fall randomly throughout the ceiling. Halfway to the peak, check to make sure the boards are running parallel to the ridge beam. If theyre not, adjust the next few courses slightly to fix the problem. Snap a chalk line flush with the edge of the fascia board and cut off the decking ends with a circular saw.
Bracing as you build

We show a fail-safe method of positioning your posts so theyre square and spaced perfectly from the house and each other. The trick is to use a jig made from the framing materials (called a footprint template in Photo 1). Initially tack the posts to the jig (Photo 3, inset) and then later to each other (Photo 9). Constantly check the posts throughout the construction to keep everything square and plumb and youll make your life easier as you assemble the upper parts. The ridge assembly is especially tricky to center and support before the rafters are in place. Use the rafter mockup (Photo 2) to determine the height of the bottom of the ridge and tack a temporary 2x6 support against the house to support that end of the ridge (Photo 9). The temporary brace that supports the yard end of the ridge will most likely be taller to accommodate any drainage slope on the patio. Cut that support a few inches longer,
52
tack it in place and use a long, straight board and level from the top of the house-mounted support to mark the length. Then cut it to length and use existing and additional supports to hold it in place before you set the ridge. A couple of 2x4s nailed to the outside and a couple of braces will keep the ridge from slipping off the support while youre installing the rafters. We assembled the ridge sandwich on the ground and lifted it into place, but it was a struggle for the two of us! Itd be much easier to lift the boards separately and nail them together once theyre up. After the ridge is assembled, measure from the ridge edges to the beams on each wall. To center the ridge perfectly, adjust the ridge until the right and left measurements are the same. Note that if you have to build an offset roof as we did, the ridge will no longer be exactly centered, but you still have to make it parallel to the beams.
Outdoor Living Room

Materials List
Item
LUMBER
Premixed concrete (footings) .60 foundation-grade treated wood, 8' 2x6s (posts) .60 foundation-grade treated wood, 6' 2x4s (posts) .40 ground-contact treated wood, 8' 2x4s (pilaster framing) .40 ground-contact treated wood, 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood (pilaster framing) .40 ground-contact treated wood, 10' 2x2s (pilaster framing) 8' cedar 2x6s (posts) 10' cedar 2x4s (posts) 14' cedar 2x10s (beams) 14' cedar 2x8s (beams) 10' cedar 2x10s (house ledger) 16' cedar 2x10s (ridge beam) 16' cedar 2x8 (ridge beam) 12' cedar 2x6s (rafters) 12' cedar 2x4s (rafters) 14' cedar 2x6s (rafters) 14' cedar 2x4s (rafters) 16' cedar 2x6s (ceiling ties) 16' cedar 2x4s (ceiling ties) 14' cedar 1x3s (shingle molding) 12' cedar 1x3 (shingle molding) 8' cedar 2x10s (decorative braces) 12' cedar 2x6s (pilaster base trim) 12' cedar 2x4s (pilaster base trim) 8' cedar 2x10s (pilaster top cap) 8' cedar 2x2s (pilaster top collar) 8' cedar 1x3s (pilaster trim strip) Random-length 2x6 tongue-and-groove spruce, pine or r (roof decking) 4 bags 2 2 3
Qty.
CUT WITH HANDSAW
GABLE SHINGLE MOLDING
GABLE FASCIA EAVE SHINGLE MOLDING
3 4 2 1 4 2 2 2 1 11 5 11 5 10 5 3 1 5 2 2 2 2 2 750 lin. ft. 3 lbs. 1 lb. 10 lbs. 1 box 10 lbs. 1 lb. 1 lb. 2 8 12 10 Small box 1 bundle 1 roll 3-2/3 squares 1 bundle 3 bundles
19
Tip
NAIL the shingle molding onto the eave edge flush with the top of the decking with 7d nails into the rafters and the decking. Notch the gable-end shingle molding around the ridge and nail it to the fascia. Cut the end of the gable shingle molding flush with the eave molding with a handsaw.
Its easiest to slide the step ashing up from the bottom edge of the last piece of siding.
HARDWARE
10d galvanized box nails (framing) 7d galvanized box nails (shingle molding) 10d sinkers (roof decking) 5/16" staples (roof felt) 1-1/4" roong nails (roof shingles) 4d galvanized box nails (pilaster shingles) 10d casing nails (pilaster trim) 2,700-lb. rated USP JT (triple joist hanger) 1/2" x 2" lag screws (hanger fastenings) 1/2" x 5" lag screws (ledger to house connection) 4-1/2" USP RT 7 (hurricane tie for beam to rafter connection) 1-1/2" joist hanger nails (hurricane ties) 5" x 7" shingle tins (step ashing)
STEP FLASHING
SLIDE IN PREBENT FLASHING HERE
ROOFING
15-lb. roong felt (shingle underlayment) Asphalt shingles (roong) Ridge shingles (roof ridge) Cedar shingles (pilaster shingles)
20
STAPLE roofing felt onto the decking and shingle the roof following the manufacturers instructions on the wrappers. Bend and tuck 5 x 7-in. shingle tins under the siding and over the top half of each shingle for every course against the house.

53
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2002
Tech Art Version3F 3/26/02

2x4 SUPPORT
Outdoor Living Room

FIG. B
PILASTER ASSEMBLY
2x2 EDGES
FIG. B PILASTER ASSEMBLY

2x2 TRIM 2x10 CAP 5-3/4" TOP BRACKET 3/4" PLYWOOD, 2x2 CLEATS 1x3 TRIM 45 O MITER (TYPICAL) 4-3/4" TOP AND BOTTOM BRACKET CUTOUT
12" x 12" TOP BRACKET 60" CEDAR POST MEMBERS
LEAVE SPACE FOR SLIP FRAMES

2x4 POST MEMBER* 2x6 POST MEMBERS* BUILDING PAPER CEDAR SHINGLES 3/4" PLYWOOD SIDES
48"
21
Tip
CUT and assemble the tapered plywood post-base sides using Fig. B as a guide. Raise the top slip frame 5 ft. above the floor and hold it in place with a 2x4 block toenailed into the post. Nail the side pieces to the top and bottom slip frames and to the 2x2s with 7d galvanized nails spaced every 6 in.
2x2 CLEATS
36"
The cedar base trim will last longer and look better over time if you hold it an inch or so above patios to keep the wood dry.
LOCAL FROST 20" x 20" DEPTH BOTTOM BRACKET 2x6 TRIM 2x4 TRIM BOTTOM BRACKET 3/4" PLYWOOD, 2x2 CLEATS 8"
CONCRETE FOOTING
12"
* .60 FOUNDATION-GRADE TREATED WOOD
Finishing
LEVEL LINE 8"
LAP
LAP
LAP
Whichever wood types you decide on, think ahead and prenish the wood whenever possibleespecially if the roof decking sports a different nish than the framing. We put two coats of exterior latex stain on the decking before installing it. That saved tons of time over painstakingly cutting in cleanly around the framing. For the same reason, it pays to apply an exterior sealer on the cedar after the structure is up and before installing the decking. If youre staining or painting standard framing lumber, we suggest applying the nish before erecting the structure and then touching up nail holes and end cuts after construction. Youll get a better, faster paint job and the wood surfaces that are buried inside sandwiches will be better protected from moisture.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON Design KATHERINE HILBRAND, SALA ARCHITECTS Structural Engineer DAVE MacDONALD
22
SHINGLE the pilasters by alternating overlaps at each course and corner. Using a pencil, lightly draw level lines about 8 in. up from the bottom of the course below for straight shingle guidelines. Hold each shingle plumb and scribe angles on the backside of the shingle.
54
32
Solid construction hidden steel fasteners Decorative trimpatterns provided Complex roof made simple with step-by-step photos
esides gracing the back yard with its splendor and calming presence, a gazebo is the perfect place to entertain. One look at this beauty and youll be picturing it lled with family and friends, celebrating a graduation or even a backyard wedding. We designed this 12-ft. dia. gazebo with plenty of eyepleasing trim, from the pattern-cut rails that surround the seating area to the ball-shaped nial atop the cupola. Yet its easy to build if you follow our special hints, tips, technical illustrations and Cutting List. Youre no doubt wondering what this gem costs to build. Well, you could pay $15,000 and let a contractor have all the fun, or you could build it yourself for about $3,800. You can pocket the savingsor throw one really great party.
This gazebo is builder-friendly

This project is not as difcult as it looks. Think of it as a series of several shorter projects with an end goal in sight for each. You can make all the decorative parts in your garage or shop (especially on rainy days). If you have several friends help you with the slab and framing (promise them anything), you can spread these two tasks over several weeks. A project like this would take two experienced carpenters nine working days from start to nish. An intermediate do-ityourselfer who has built a deck should plan this as a whole summer project. NOTE: You must have a site that slopes less than 4 in. over 12 ft. (any more than this will require some excavating).
by David Radtke
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2000
33
Fig. A Overview
TRIM TO OCTAGON SHAPE
G A Z E B O
3-1/2" DIA. WOOD BALL
S2 S1 N N
1-1/2" 2" SCREW (TYPICAL) 1-1/2" 4" 5-1/2" 13-1/2"
67-1/2 DEGREE BEVEL
CUT FROM 1" THICK DECKING CUT FROM 2x6s
L M
T1
1-1/2"
7-1/2" 5-1/2"
Q R2 G3
2-1/4"
S2 S1
M K1 P P N
H2 Q
12"
L
14-1/4"
G3
CUPOLA SECTION
T2 T1
R1
K1 E
12" METAL STRAP
B F H1
T1
12" METAL STRAP
K2 B
G2 F
R1
3/4" QUARTER ROUND TRIM; MITER ENDS (TYPICAL)
J B, E, F, H1, H2 D1
67-1/2 CUT SAW KERF IN POST TO FIT METAL STRAP (SEE FIG. B)
C1 A H1 F G1
H1 C2 F D2
2" x 18" x 18" INLAID STONES
3/8" x 3" BOLT
A A
A D1, D2 C1, C2
CONCRETE SLAB METAL STANDOFF
34
G A Z E B O
57-1/2"
Cutting List
QTY. SIZE AND DESCRIPTION 8 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 102 posts 70" TO 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 56-1/2 8 POST CENTER top plates 16 7/8 x 3-1/2 x 31 cedar wrap* 16 7/8 x 3-1/2 x 36 cedar wrap* 45 DEGREES 16 7/8 x 5-1/4 x 31 cedar wrap* 74-3/4" TO 16 7/8 x 5-1/4 x 36 cedar SLAB POINT wrap* 8 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50-3/4 cedar headers 22-1/2 DEGREES 30 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50 cedar rails 56 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 27 balusters 96 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 8 spandrel pickets 16 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 13 cupola pickets (wilson pickets) 280 ft. 3/4 x 3/4 retainer strips (cut to t) 16 ft. 3/4 x 3/4 retainer strips (cut to t) 16 1-1/8 x 9-1/4 x 22-1/2 corner braces 8 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 102 lower rafters 8 1-1/2 x 7-1/4 x 24 rafter tail buildups 8 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 34 inner vertical rafter ties 8 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 32 cupola rafters 1 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 50 octagonal rafter hub 8 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 32 outer vertical rafter ties 16 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 10 horizontal rafter ties 8 7/8 x 8-1/2 x 6 lower fascia (cut to length) 8 7/8 x 5-1/2 x 2 upper fascia (cut to length) See Fig. A 1 2 See Fig. A 300 ft. 1 x 2-3/4 lower roof sheathing (5/4 decking cut in two) 320 ft. 1 x 5-1/2 upper roof sheathing (5/4 decking)
POST CENTER
C L
KEY A EEL ANCHOR B SECTION VIEW) C1

C L C2
12" STEEL ANCHOR 3/8" DIA. HOLE CONCRETE SLAB
4-3/4"
4"
-1/2"
3-1/2"
D1 D2 E F G1 G2 G3 H1 H2 J K1 K2 L M N
3/8" x 2" CROSS BOLT GRAVEL 2"
Fig. B
7"
Concrete Slab and Paver Detail
C L
57-1/2"
45 DEGREES
12" STEEL ANCHOR (SEE SECTION VIEW) 72-1/2" C L
70" TO POST CENTER
45 DEGREES 74-3/4" TO SLAB POINT INSET STONES 2" x 18" x 18"
3-
22-1/2 DEGREES C L
P ebo / Slab Q
The slab
You dont have to get the slab dimenit in 18 in. Remove the sod with a sions perfect, but the closer they rented sod cutter. Youll need to come to it, the easier things will be excavate a 9-in. deep area radiating later. If you hate doing concrete out about 78 in. from the conduit. work, skip this section, photocopy it After that youll set forms and put in and give it to your concrete mason. A a layer of 1/4-in. gravel to the dimensions shown in Fig. B. The idea is to crew can do the work for about $1,200 while youre out shopping for have the outside foot or more of the lumber or cutting parts (but you can slab thicker to support the weight of cut the cost to a couple of hundred if the structure. you do it!). Theres also an article in Build your forms after carefully our May 00 issue on pouring conexamining Fig. B. Set your circular Story Number in a lot of gaps in this crete thatll ll saw at 22-1/2 degrees and cut eight Story NameGazebo / Slab subject area. (To order a copy, see 2x8 exterior forms with the short side Issue p. 114.) Follow Fig. B closely if you measuring 57-1/2 in. Screw the forms EditorDave Radtke decide to do it yourself. together with 3-in. deck screws. Have Art DirectorBob Unger Begin by driving a 2-ft. piece of a friend help you align the forms so Tech Art conduit Version3D 5/15/00the eight corners of the forms are all rigid electrical at the intended center of the gazebo. Drive
ke R1 Unger R2 3D 5/15/00
S1 S2 T1
T2
35
G A Z E B O
the same distance from the conduit center. If these measurements are all equal, your slab will be a perfect octagonget it as close as you can. Drive 3/4 in. x 2-1/2 in. stakes along the outside of the forms at each intersection, level the forms and screw the forms to the stakes. Now build a square inner form for the patio inlay, 72-1/2 in. on each side. Center it as shown and drive in the stakes on the inside of the forms and screw them together. The slab will require about 1-1/2 yds. of concrete and four 10-ft. pieces of No. 4 rebar. Have plenty of help (at least three strong backs and two heavy-duty wheelbarrows). Wheelbarrow the concrete and dump it into
TIGHTEN THE NUT onto the carriage bolt. Temporarily brace the 4x4s if necessary. Be sure you have the standoff screwed to the posts before you mark and drill the hole.
2
KERF CUT FOR STEEL ANCHOR
CUT THE POSTS TO LENGTH and mount the aluminum standoff underneath. Transfer the hole locations in your steel anchors to the sides of the post. Drill a 1-1/4 in. recessed hole followed by a 3/8-in. hole for the 3-in. carriage bolt,
CARRIAGE BOLT
ALUMINUM POST STANDOFF
washer and nut.
CONCRETE SLAB
18" x 18" PAVERS INSET
36
G A Z E B O
G A Z E B O
2x6 TOP PLATES
the forms, lay rebar 4 in. in along the perimeter, screed the concrete with a straight 2x4, then run the hand oat over it. Set your anchors in at the locations shown in Fig. B. Wait till the concrete is rm (you should have to push hard to leave a thumbprint). Smooth it with a steel trowel, cover it with 4-mil clear plastic and let it set for two days. Keep kids and pets away.
SCREW THE 2x6 TOP PLATES to the 4x4 posts with 3-in. galvanized screws. If your posts are set properly, the top plates should all be the same length. Make any adjustments to ensure the posts will all be plumb. Use a level to plumb the posts and install temporary bracing (shown in Photo 7). Cut and install the post wraps C1 and C2 at this time.
4x4 POSTS (A)
G A Z E B O
Cut your posts to length and bolt them to the steel strap anchors
Make the anchors by cutting 12-in. lengths of 1/8-in. x 1-1/8 in. steel and boring 7/16-in. dia. holes into them as shown in Fig. B. You can nd steel stock next to the threaded rod at your home center. For extra grabbing power for your posts, be sure you put a bolt and nut into the base before you push the steel into the concrete. The 6 in. of steel anchor above the concrete ts into a saw kerf (Photo 1) at the base of each post. Cut this kerf with a circular saw. The blade wont cut all the way through, so ip the post over to continue the cut in the other side. Make the kerf wide enough so you dont have to struggle to slip it over the steel anchor. Before you mark your anchor hole locations, screw the aluminum post standoff to the base of the post. These standoffs keep the post elevated for protection against rot. Mark the anchor hole locations as shown in Photo 1, then drill a 1-1/4 in. hole 1/2 in. deep on each side of the post, followed by a 3/8-in. hole all the way through. The 1-1/4 in. hole recesses the bolt head and nut to make room for the piece youll nail over the post later. Grab a buddy to help set the post while you push the bolt through the hole and tighten it. Once all the posts are in place, cut the 2x6 top plates and screw them to the top of the posts with a pair of 3-in. deck screws. Plumb this framework with some temporary braces.
Give the posts some beef and dimension by nailing the cedar wrap to the tops and bottoms
Nail the 1x4 (C1 and C2) cedar wrap onto the posts rst, then measure this width and rip-cut the wider 1x6 to t (D1 and D2). Nail the wider wrap to the post with 8d galvanized casing nails.
JIGSAW
G A Z E B O
Fig. C
Story Number BALUSTERS (G1) Story NameGazebo / Patterns Issue EditorDave Radtke Art DirectorBob Unger Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00
28"
Picket and Baluster Patterns
24"
4
0"
20"
CUT THE BALUSTERS and the pickets from 1x6 and 2x6 material. See Fig. C. Sand, prime and paint the pieces before installing them. 4" 8" 12" 16"
G2
16"
"
2"
Set up and cut out the gingerbread pieces

J
2-1/2"
12"
"
"
2-1/8" Story Number 4-1/2" These ornate parts do take time, but theres nothing difcult Story NameGazebo / Patterns about cutting them. Use the scale drawing inEIGHT Figs. C and D to CUT Issue 2-1/8" WITH 22-1/2 make a full-size template and trace the shapes onto boards. DEGREE EditorDave Dont think you haveRadtke to cut all of them in one day. BEVELS ON This is the 4-1/2" THIS SIDE Art Unger kind ofDirectorBob task you can chip away at by knocking off several pieces C 3/4" L lower balusters from 1x6 pine and every day after work. Cut the DIA. Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00
28"
8"
24"
the upper pickets (G2 and G3) from 1x4 pine. Use a circular saw
1-1/2" for end cuts and a jigsaw for curves. Once youve nished cutDIA.
4"
"
ting these pieces, sand the edges and prime and paint them.
20"
Fig. D
0" 0"
"
CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE BEVELS ON THIS SIDE 4"
G1
0" 0"
G3
G2
Bracket Pattern
8" 12" 16"
16"
4"
8"
BEVEL CUT ON SIDE
12"
J
2-1/2" 2" BEVEL BOTH SIDES 4" AT 22-1/2 DEGREES
16"
SPEED SQUARE
24"
12"
K1
2-1/8" 4-1/2" GLUE
20"
2-1/8" 3" SCREWS

12"
8" 3/4" DIA. 1-1/2" DIA.
4-1/2" C L
CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE BEVELS ON THIS SIDE
8"
16" CUT 3/4" DIA. FROM HOLES 2x6 x 32" 12"
(J)
8"
91"
4"
1-1/2" DIA. HOLES
12"
4"
K2
CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE 45 DEGREES BEVELS ON THIS 12" SIDE 8"
5
8"
0" 0" 16"
M G3 G1 CUT THE 16 CORNER BRACKETS from 5/4 x 9-1/4 in. pine (which0" is 1-1/8 in. thick). Note that there are 4" eight left- and eight right-hand pieces.
16" 20"
40
4"
0"
0"
4"
45 DEGREES
8"
12"
0"
4"
8"
12"
16"
20"
G A Z E B O
Cut the corner braces (J) from 5/4 (1-1/8 in. thick) pine (Photo 5). After you cut the shape, bevel-cut one side with your circular saw set at 22-1/2
MITER AND SCREW THE RAILS AND HEADERS to the posts with 3-in. galvanized screws. Nail the balusters (G1) to the cleats, which are nailed to the cedar rails. Use 1-1/4 in. galvanized nails. A power finish nailer is handy here.
H1
F BALUSTER (G1)
CEDAR WRAP (C2)
degrees. Keep in mind that theres a left and a right corner brace for each post. Prime and paint these as well. Nail the corner braces to the post and rail with 8d galvanized casing nails after you install the rails, lower balusters, upper pickets and all the cleats. Use 4d galvanized casing nails to nail the cleats to the rails.
TOP PLATE
TEMPORARY UPPER BRACES
7
SCREW UPPER BRACES to the top plates (B). These will help stabilize the structure as you assemble the roof. Be sure the posts are anchored with braces as well.
TEMPORARY LOWER BRACES
42
DIA. 4" 1-1/2" DIA. CUT EIGHT WITH 22-1/2 DEGREE BEVELS ON THIS SIDE
2"
G A Z E B O
G1 G3
0"
6"
The cupola practically builds itself Story Number with this unique rafter system Story NameGazebo / Patterns
Issue EditorDave Radtke Art DirectorBob Unger Tech Art Version3D 5/15/00
BEVEL BOTH SIDES AT 22-1/2 DEGREES 16" GLUE 3" SCREWS 12"
UPPER RAFTER PATTERN
28"
Fig. E
4" 8" 12"
0"
Cupola Rafter
24"
24"
K1
20"
20"
16" CUT FROM 2x6 x 32"
G2
0"
4"
8"
12"
16"
12"
16"
8"
0"
91"
K2
4"
2"
J
2-1/2"
8"
12"
4" 0" 0"
8
4"
8"
45 DEGREES 2-1/8" 8" 12" 4-1/2" 16" 20"
4"
CUT THE CURVED CUPOLA RAFTERS from the template shown RAFTER BUILDUP CUT EIGHT in Fig. E. Cut the rafters CUT FROM 2x8 and the curved rafter tail 2-1/8" WITH 22-1/2 buildups using the information in Fig. F. DEGREE
4-1/2" BEVELS ON THIS SIDE C 3/4" Study Figs. A, E and F and Photo 10. L DIA. Cut your lower rafters (K1) and screw 1-1/2" curved rafter tail buildups (K2) to the DIA. 12" ends of the lower rafter. Cut the 1x2 inner and outer verticalCUT rafter ties (L EIGHT WITH and P). Notice that these 2x422-1/2 outer DEGREE vertical rafter ties have slots cutON in BEVELS THISand SIDE them to slip over the upper lower 16"
0"
8"
45 DEGREES 4" 8" 12" 16" 20"
0"
rafters. You can cut these slots with a table saw or circular saw, working from each end. First cut one side with multiple passes and then ip the rafter tie over and cut multiple passes from the other side. Youll get an angled slope at the end of the slot from the roundness of the blade.
4"
G1
0"
G3
SAW 0" BEVEL SET AT 45 DEGREES

24"
4"
8"
12"
Fig. F
16"
Rafter Assembly
K1
GLUE 3" SCREWS
BEVEL BOTH SIDES AT 22-1/2 DEGREES
1"
20"
4x4 BLANK FOR CENTER HUB (N)
12"
16"
9
CUT
8"
91"
K2
4"
SHAPE THEFROM CENTER HUB (N) into an octagon. in 2x6 xMeasure 32" from each side about 1 in. and 12" cut along this line with your saw bevel set at a 45-degree angle. The finished octagon 8" should be about 1-1/2 in. on a side.
4"
45 DEGREES 0" 0" 4" 8" 12" 16" 20"
45 DEGREES
44
0"
0"
4"
8"
12"
16"
20"
G A Z E B O
Assemble the rafter sections before hauling them to the roof

RAFTER TAIL BUILDUP (SEE FIG. F)
FASTEN EACH RAFTER SYSTEM to the center octagonal hub. Install opposite sides one after the other to maintain the shape of the octagon.
11
ANGLED PLATE
NAIL THE ANGLED PLATES (see Buyers Guide, p. 53) to the rafter and to the top plates to secure the rafters to the structure.
12
VERTICAL RAFTER TIES (P)
UPPER RAFTER (M)
STEEL STRAP
CENTER HUB (N)
CENTER HUB (N)
NOTE: DONT DO THIS ON A WINDY DAY
10
ATTACH TWO OPPOSITE RAFTERS to the center hub. Then grab a partner and carefully walk the assembly up to position. See Photo 11 for nailing detail.
TEMPORARY BRACE
46
Q P 13" Q
LOWER FASCIA (R1)
Shingle the cupola rst

S2 S1
13
SCREW THE HORIZONTAL RAFTER TIES to the sides of each outer vertical rafter tie.
14
NAIL THE LOWER FASCIA (R1) to the rafter tail ends. Miter the ends with the saw set at 22-1/2 degrees.
15
MIND LIKE A STEEL TRAP
16
SHINGLE THE CUPOLA before shingling the lower roof. Otherwise, youll damage the lower shingles when you go up and down.
NAIL THE ROOF DECKING to the rafters with 8d nails. Be sure to screw (use 3/4-in. screws) the steel strap to the lower roof boards for extra support. The strap ties the narrower boards together to prevent sagging.
STARTER COURSES ARE RIP-CUT TO MAKE THE CURVE
12" STEEL STRAP
FASCIA BOARD
Lay out the rafter parts (not including the center octagonal piece N) on a large at area like a garage oor or a driveway (look at the upper left diagram of Fig. A). Fasten the upper and lower rafter to the 1x2 (L) with 2-in. screws. These rafters run parallel, with a 14-1/2 in. space between them. Next screw part P into the sides of the upper and lower rafter so that its parallel to part L. Build the rest of the assemblies and then mount a pair to the center hub (N; see Photo 9). Follow Photos 10 12 to mount the rafter assemblies to the top plates.
Deck the roof

Cut your lower fascia from 1x10 cedar. Hold it 7/8 in. above the ends of the rafters so your roof decking will be ush with the fascia. Rip 5-1/2 in. decking in half for the rst seven courses so theyll be able to bend around the lower curved section. Cut each end of the decking at 22-1/2 degrees for the rst course and change the angle slightly until you nally reach about 16 degrees for the rest of the full-width courses.
48
There are a few things you need to know about using the Carriage House Shangle roong material. First of all, these shingles are heavy, and a bit tougher to work with than ordinary asphalt shingles. They also cost about twice as much, but we thought the nished look was well worth it. Dont buy the special cap shingles for the ridges; full cap shingles will look out of place. Instead, buy a matching color of ordinary asphalt shingles. You can cut these to t the width and proportion of this small structure. At the cupola where the surfaces are all curved, youll need to remove the top one-third of each shingle to get it to lie at. The cap over the seams should be cut narrower and shorter to follow the concave curve. Another thing to remember for the lower section: The cap shingles should be full width, but the length on the bottom four rows of cap needs to be cut down several inches to make the curve.
G A Z E B O
Painting your gazebo

NO. 15 ROOFING FELT EXTEND SHINGLE BEYOND FASCIA 3/4" DECORATIVE SHINGLE (SEE BUYERS GUIDE)
Prime and paint if you please, but keep in mind that painting the gazebo means a lot of prep and repainting work in the future. Its best to paint just the gingerbread features as accents, and then seal the unpainted parts with a brush-on oil sealer. Id recommend applying the oil rst, then painting the next day. Dont bother oiling the underside of the roof. Because its out of the weather and direct sun, itll look fresh for years to come.
17
SHINGLE EACH LOWER ROOF SECTION, then move to the opposite side. Keep the exposure consistent from side to side by measuring as you go.
50
G A Z E B O
Buyers Guide
The following three products are available at most home centers and hardware stores. If you need help nding them, call Simpson Strong-Tie at (800) 999-5099 or check out its Web site at www.strongtie.com. I The steel straps at the top plate and on the roong are Simpson No. LSTA12. I The angles for the rafter holddowns are Simpson No. A23. I The standoffs are Simpson No. APS4. Carriage House Shangles are made by CertainTeed. Call (800) 345-1145 to nd a dealer near you. Savannah shingles also are decorative asphalt shingles and are made by GeorgiaPacic. Call (800) 284-5347 for a dealer near you. Or check the Web at www.gp.com.
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION 4x4 x 10 cedar (posts) 2x6 x 10 cedar (top plates) 1x4 x 14 cedar (wrap) 1x4 x 8 cedar (wrap) 1x6 x 14 cedar (wrap) 1x6 x 8 cedar (wrap) 2x4 x 10 cedar (rails and headers) 1x6 x 14 cedar (balusters) 1x4 x 8 cedar (pickets) 1x6 x 10 cedar ripped (3/4strips) 5/4 x 10 x 8 cedar (corner braces) 2x6 x 10 cedar (rafters) 2x8 x 8 cedar (rafter buildups) 1x2 x 12 cedar (parts L) 2x6 x 8 cedar (cupola rafters) 4x4 x 5 cedar (octagonal hub) 2x4 x 8 cedar (outer ties P) 2x4 x 14 cedar (horizontal ties Q) 1x10 x 12 cedar (lower fascia) 1x6 x 8 cedar (upper fascia) 5/4 x 6 cedar decking 10-ft. lengths Shangles (asphalt shingles) 15-lb. roong felt Roong nails Simpson straps, No. LSTA12 Simpson angles, No. A23 Simpson standoffs, No. APS4 Joist hanger nails (galvanized) 1-1/8 x 1/8 x 8 steel (anchors) 3/8 x 3 carriage bolts 3/8 x 3 hex bolts 3/8 nuts and washers 6d galvanized casing nails 8d galvanized casing nails 4d galvanized casing nails 8d galvanized common nails Hook blades for shingle cutting 3 galvanized screws
QTY. 8 4 7 1 7 1 20 10 11 6 4 8 2 2 3 1 3 1 4 2 50 3-1/2 squares 1 roll 10 lbs. 16 16 8 5 lbs. 1 8 8 16 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 3 5 lbs.
Given the scope of this project, youd expect it to take an arsenal of carpentry toolsnot so
Heres what you need to do the concrete base:
Tape measure I String line I Sod cutter to remove the turf I Shovel to level the ground I Circular saw to cut the forms I Screw gun
I
Sledgehammer to drive the stakes I Level to even the forms I 2x4 screed to even the concrete I A hand float to smooth the concrete I A steel trowel for nal nishing
I
Here are the tools you need to build the gazebo:

String line I Tape measure I Wrench set I Drill I Circular saw I Jigsaw (with lots of blades) I Framing square
I
12-in. Speed square I Hammer I Screw gun I Utility knife (standard blades
I
and hook blades)

I
Power miter saw (optional)
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2000
53
Shade for your Deck
A simple shelter for you and your deckand your burgers!

by Carl Hines
ou dont have to let the blazing sun or drippy weather drive you indoors. This simple covered pergola will keep you comfortable long after your neighbors with unsheltered decks have given up and gone inside. We designed it for versatility and easy construction. Its 10 x 10-ft. size is large enough to accommodate a table and chairs but small and light enough not to require extra footings or deck framing. We recommend that your deck have at least 2x8 joists to ensure adequate strength. In addition, we made posts and beams from 2-by lumber because its lighter than timbers and much easier to fasten together. You can expand the length and width about 25 percent without going to stronger components. We designed the fabric cover to be easily removable during cold months. More DECK SHELTER
One person can build and stain the entire structure in about six days.
44
MARCH 20 03 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MARCH 20 03
45
deck shelter
CORNER POSTS
EXTENDS 5" PAST BEAM TOP
FLUSH WITH BOTTOM OF BEAMS
CENTER
2x6 CROSS BEAM RIDGE POST
CARPENTERS SQUARE
BEAM
CUT all the components to size (see Fig. A, p. 47, and the Cutting List, p. 48). Nail together the four corner posts (parts A1 and A2) with pairs of 3-in. hot-dipped galvanized box nails spaced 2 ft. apart. Fasten the ridge post (part G) with four nails to the cross beam 2x6 (part D1). There are three of these assemblies. Be sure the post is square to the cross beam.
POSITION five 2x2 blocks (part B2) on the 2x8 post beam member (for the layout, see Fig. A, Post Beam Detail). Fasten each block with a couple of nails. Be sure the blocks are flush with the bottom of the beam. Finally, stain all the parts and set them aside to dry.
We built our pergola from standard construction cedar because its weather resistant and accepts stain well. Other rot-resistant wood would work as well. The total cost, including the fabric, was $1,600. Allow about three weekends for completion, including staining. A pergola like this looks best on a larger deck, one at least twice the size of the pergola. If you have doubts, mock up the corners with braced 2x4s; stand back and imagine the rest. If necessary, alter the slope of the rafters to match your house. (Youll have to recalculate the rafter angles and lengths.) In this article, well walk you through the construction details, especially how to make solid connections to your deck. This is a surprisingly easy project to build; it mostly involves cutting the pieces and assembling them with nails
and screws. You should have confidence handling a circular saw and level, as well as simple carpentry experience. You can sew the fabric yourself or have an awning shop do it for you. Apply for a building permit; take a sketch of your existing deck structure as well as this plan for approval by the inspector.
To save time, stain the wood before assembly
Assemble a template
to position the corners
First cut all the parts for the pergola, using the Cutting List on p. 48. Next nail together the four corner posts with pairs of 3-in. galvanized nails. Nail the three ridge posts to three 2x6 cross beam members (Photo 1). Then nail the 2x2 x 121/4 in. blocks to one side of two 2x8 post beam members (Photo 2). Its much easier and faster to stain all the parts before assembly. Let them completely dry before assembling.
46
Build a 10 x 10-ft. template out of 1x4s to help position the corner posts accurately (Photo 3). Screw this frame together so you can disassemble it later, and use the 1x4s to temporarily brace the posts. Shift the template around on your deck to help visualize the best location for the pergola. Removing deck boards at the corner post positions can be difficult if theyre nailed rather than screwed to the joists. If possible, get underneath the deck and knock the deck boards up with a heavy hammer. If youre lucky, the boards will pull the nails up with them. Most likely, however, the nails will pull through or split the boards, so you may have to replace several boards. More DECK SHELTER
VERSION 2F 10/29/02
18-1/16" 2" 1"
18-1/8"
21-1/16"
RIDGE BEAM IDENTICAL
H A2
B2
B1
D2 B2
H D2
5' 0" CORNER POST 12 23 7'0" 5
8"
POST BEAM DETAIL

C L 5"
G
1-1/2"
RIDGE POST DETAIL
B2 B1
1-1/2"
H
12"
16" (TYP.)
J D1
RAFTER DETAIL
D2
F H G
E D1 E F B1, B2 D1, D2
2x4 x 3-3/4" BLOCK 1-1/2"
G
5"
CORNER POST JOIST HANGER
A2
7-1/4"
A1 A1, A2
8' 0"
A1, A2
A1, A2
EXISTING JOISTS
3-3/4" 3-3/4" 3-1/4" 3-1/4"
POST POCKET 5-3/4" DETAIL

4"
10' 0" 45 (TYP.)
2x8 BLOCKING
TOP
5-3/4"
F
1-1/4" 33-3/4"
Story Number CORNER POST Story NamePergola (details) DETAIL 10' 0" Issue EditorCarl Hines Art DirectorHope Faye Tech Art Version3F 12/02/02
3-3/4" 3-3/4" 3-1/4" 4" 45 (TYP.) 5-3/4" 5-3/4"
8" BEAM ANGLE BRACE FIG. 3-3/4" A CROSS SHADING STRUCTURE 5-1/4" DETAILS
(See p. 48 for dimensions)

3-3/4" 3" 8" 3-7/8" 4" 45 (TYP.) 5-1/4"
3-3/4" 3-1/4" 3-3/4" 3-1/4" 3-7/8" 3" 3-1/4"
E
4"
32"
5-1/4" 45 (TYP.)
1-3/4" 5-1/4"
TOP 3-3/4" 3-1/4" TOP
F
4" 45 (TYP.) 33-3/4"
5-3/4"
1-1/4" 5-3/4"
3-3/4" 3-1/4"
E POST BEAM ANGLE BRACE

3-1/4" 32" 1-3/4"
F CROSS BEAM ANGLE BRACE

3-1/4" 33-3/4" 1-1/4"
POST BEAM ANGLE BRACE
CROSS BEAM ANGLE BRACE
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MARCH 20 03
47
8" 5-1/4"
3-3/4"
deck shelter
10' DIAGONALS 10'
CORNER BLOCK
ANGLE BRACE
CUT two pieces of 1x4, each 10 ft. long, and two pieces 9 ft. 5 in. long. Butt the shorter pieces between the 10-footers and drive 1-1/4 in. screws through corner blocks to connect the sides. Tack one side of the frame to the deck and then adjust the frame until the two diagonals are the same length. Fasten a 1x4 angled brace to hold the frame rigid and square.
Build the pockets for the four corner posts
Cutting List
KEY
A1 A2 B1 B2
QTY.
8 4 4 10
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 96" corner posts 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 114-1/4" corner posts; cut to pattern (see Corner Post Detail) 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 144" post beams; cut both ends to pattern (see Post Beam Detail) 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 12-1/4" blocks; sandwich set of five between 2x8 post beam members (see Post Beam Detail for layout) 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 144" ridge beam; cut to same pattern as post beam 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 111" cross beams 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" cross beam blocks; bolt to post beam (see Post Beam Detail for layout) 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 36" post beam angle braces; cut to pattern (see Post Beam Angle Brace) 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 36" cross beam angle braces; cut to pattern (see Cross Beam Angle Brace) 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 35-1/2" ridge posts; cut notch at top (see Ridge Post Detail) 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 84" rafters; cut to pattern (see Rafter Detail) 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 142" purlins; cut 30-degree angle at both ends
Fasten blocking between the deck joists to support each corner post. Use the template to accurately locate the edges of the corner posts (Fig. B, p. 50). Mark the position of the 2x4 center that extends down between the deck joists (Fig. B). Make sure the 2x4 doesnt land on top of a joist. The one we show sits against the side of a joist. Be sure to use joist hangers to ensure the strength of the blocks youre adding (Photo 5). It can be tricky finding room to swing a hammer to drive the hanger nails. In some situations, you may have better luck driving screws. Although the 2x4 center slides into the pocket, the posts 2x6 components sit on top of the joist blocks (Photo 6), which support the weight of the pergola. More DECK SHELTER
48
C D1 D2 E F G H J
1 6 6 4 4 3 20 10
Buyers Guide
Our awning fabric is from Sunbrella (800-640-3539, www.outdoorfabrics.com). The company will send sample swatches for $1 each. The outdoor furniture shown is available from Smith & Hawken (800-940-1170). The grill is available from Weber (800-446-1071).
Hardware
1 lb. of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws 2 lbs. of 3" (10d) galvanized box nails Thirty-four 3/8 x 4" galvanized lag screws Sixteen 3/8 x 5" galvanized lag screws Fifty 3/8" galvanized flat washers
deck shelter
PENCIL MARK
Assemble the pergola

REMOVE enough deck boards to access the joists at the corners of the template. Position the template exactly and mark the outside edge of the corner on the deck boards and joists. Then mark the position of the 2x4 post center (see Fig. B).
4
PENCIL MARK PENCIL MARK (EDGE OF TEMPLATE)
TEMPLATE
DECK BOARDS TEMPLATE PENCIL LINE 2x4 CENTER 2x8 TREATED BLOCKING
FIG. B
POST SUPPORT DETAIL
CORNER POST
TEMPLATE
TEMPLATE PENCIL LINE EXISTING JOISTS
Drop the posts into the pockets and drive four 3-in. nails to secure each of them to the blocking (Photo 7). Dont worry if they seem wobbly; the rest of the pergola structure will stiffen them. Finally, plumb each post in both directions and secure with two temporary braces. Use the 1x4 salvaged from the template. Screw short pieces of 2x4 to the deck to anchor the bottom of the braces. Next to go up are the two 2x8s that make up each post beam (Photo 8). Screw a temporary holder to one of the posts if you do this by yourself. A helper on a second ladder makes the job quicker. Use galvanized lag screws with flat washers to fasten the cross beam blocks to the side of the beams (Photo 9). Strength is critical here, so dont use deck screws or nails. More DECK SHELTER
3-3/4" 1"
Story Number Story NamePergola (deck detail) Issue 3-3/4" x 1-3/4" EditorCarl Hines POCKET FOR 2x4 POST Art DirectorHope Faye CENTER Tech Art Version1F 12/09/02
3" DECK SCREWS
TEMPLATE PENCIL LINE 1-1/2"
PILOT HOLES PENCIL MARKS INDICATE EDGE OF TEMPLATE
LAY OUT the position of the center 2x4 and nail 2x8 joist hangers on each side of it. Nail or screw the 2x8 supports in place.
CUT a 3-3/4 in. long treated 2x4 block and screw it between the joist blocks to complete the support.
50
deck shelter
DROP the four posts into the joist pockets. Secure with four nails or deck screws. Plumb each post with a carpenters level and brace in both directions.
7
1x4 BRACES BLOCKS TEMPORARILY SCREWED TO DECK
2x4 CENTER
3" NAILS
Fasten the double 2x6 cross beams (Photo 10) into both the block and the beam (Photo 10 detail). Drill clearance holes to avoid splitting, and drive 3-in. deck screws. Drive two 3/8 x 4-in. galvanized lag screws through the outer 2x6 and the ridge post into the inner 2x6. This securely pins the ridge posts to both 2x6s. The angle braces at each corner (Photo 11) slide between the two members that make up the beams. If the space is too tight for the brace to slide in, wedge open the space a bit. After the brace is in, remove the wedge. Make sure the bottoms of the two braces are even with each other at each corner. Drill clearance and pilot holes, and drive lag screws to secure them (see Photo 11 for sizes and location). Now you can remove the temporary corner braces.
TEMPORARY HOLDER
More DECK SHELTER
SCREWS
SET the 2x8 beam with the 2x2 blocks onto the posts 2x6 shoulder and nail into place with four 3-in. nails. Position the second 2x8 and nail it into the posts. Finally drive two nails through the second 2x8 and into each 2x2 block.
52
3/8" CLEARANCE HOLE
5-1/2" BLOCKS
deck shelter
Lay out the rafter positions on both sides of the ridge beam before setting it in place. Its a lot easier to do this while standing on the ground than on a ladder. Now set the ridge into the three ridge post slots (Photo 12). Work from one end to the other setting the rafters (Photo 13). Make sure that each rafter sits 1-1/2 in. below the top of the ridge beam. Fasten all the rafters to the ridge beam first, then go back and fasten them to the post beams. Starting at the ridge, mark out 16-in. spacing for the purlins. You dont need to mark out all the rafters, just both end rafters and the center one. Position the 2x2s on the layout marks and drive a single 3-in. galvanized nail through the purlin into both the end rafters and the center one (Photo 14). Next have a helper look down the length of the purlin from one end and sight it straight as you nail off the purlin at the rest of the rafters.
Install the canvas cover
4" LAG SCREWS
POSITION the three 2x2 cross beam blocks (part D2) to the inside of the beam. See Fig. A, Post Beam Detail. Drill 3/8-in. clearance holes through the 2x2s and 1/4-in. pilot holes into the beam; drive 3/8-in. by 4-in. galvanized lag screws.
TEMPORARY SUPPORT BLOCK RIDGE POST
We used a fabric manufactured specifically for awnings (see Buyers Guide, p. 48). Its UV stable and rot-proof. Canvas is a less expensive choice, but its not as long lasting. Youll have to sew four More DECK SHELTER
ANGLED SCREWS
10
LIFT the 2x6 cross beam and ridge post into place and drive three screws at each end (see detail). Set the second 2x6 and fasten it at both ends. Predrill and drive two 3/8 x 4-in. lag screws through the outer 2x6 into the ridge post.
2x2 BLOCK
54
deck shelter
CLEARANCE HOLES 3/8" x 4" LAG SCREWS
3/8" x 5" LAG SCREWS TEMPORARY BRACE CLEARANCE HOLES
11
SLIDE the top end of the angle brace between the beams two components. Drill clearance and pilot holes and drive lag screws to secure them. Remove the temporary braces.
12
SLIDE the ridge beam into the post notches and center it end to end. Drill clearance holes and drive three 3-in. deck screws through each post into the beam.
strips together to get the 12-ft. width. The sewing takes some experience and a heavy-duty sewing machine. If necessary, have a tent and awning company make the cover for you. The fabric cover is 144 in. wide by 174 in. long with pipe pockets sewn in at the two bottom edges (Fig. C, p. 58). Make and attach three 1-in. wide by 10-in. long fabric straps on each side centered on the double rafters. Sew on Velcro strips to finish them. Fabricate a 12-ft. length of 1/2-in. EMT conduit (metal electric conduit). It comes in 10-ft. pieces, so youll need to cut it (use a hacksaw) to add a 2-ft. piece. Connect the two sections with a 12-in. piece of 5/8-in. diameter wood dowel. Apply polyurethane glue or construction adhesive to each end of the dowel, then slide half of it into each piece of pipe. Let the glue set overnight. Now slide the pipes into the completed awning cover. The pipes make it easy to roll up the fabric. More DECK SHELTER
DOUBLE RAFTER
13
SET a rafter against the ridge beam, holding it 1-1/2 in. below the top edge. Drive two deck screws to fasten it. Fasten the bottom end of the rafter to the 2x2 block with two screws. Continue until all the rafters are in place.
1-1/2
56
3-1/4" 3-1/4"
E
1-3/4" 32"
POST BEAM ANGLE BRACE
deck shelter
3" NAIL
FIG. C
CANVAS COVER
PURLIN
1" STRAPS CENTERED ON DOUBLE RAFTERS 1/2" EMT PIPE
1" 10" STRAP 1/2" EMT PIPE DOUBLE RAFTERS 14'6" PURLIN
14
MAKE layout lines every 16 in. along the top edge of the rafters, starting at the ridge. Center the 2x2 purlins over the rafters. Make sure they're on the layout lines and drive a 3-in. galvanized nail through the purlin into each rafter.
RIDGE BEAM
PURLINS
DOUBLE RAFTERS
1/2" EMT PIPE 12'0"
STRAPS
VELCRO STRAP
15
UNROLL the canvas over the top of the purlins. Wrap the straps over the partially driven nail and fasten it back on itself with the Velcro.
3-1/2" GALVANIZED. NAIL
Start at one edge and roll it up with the finished side of the fabric showing. We used 3-1/2 in. galvanized nails for the strap anchors (Photo 15 detail). Drill a clearance hole through one of the rafters; slide the nail through until its tip hits the second rafter. Then hammer it in. The Velcro strap wraps around the nail and sticks to itself. Working from a stepladder, set the rolled-up cover on top of the rafters along one lower edge. Unroll it up the rafters to the top, then down the other side (Photo 15).
Art Direction HOPE FAY Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
58
Craftsman-Style
Screen Ho
32
use
The perfect outdoor retreat.
by David Radtke
When I was a kid, my mom and dad would pack us into the station wagon and head up to the North Woods for a whole week to beat the city heat. We always stayed in cabin No. 10, tucked between two mammoth white pines. The cabin wasnt much: a little kitchen, a tiny bedroom and a modest sitting room. The screened-in front porch was bigger than all the other rooms put together. Although we did a lot of shing and rock skipping outdoors, we spent the bulk of the week on that porch, playing checkers, hearts and old maid; reading comic books; and of course, sleeping. Even though the porch had see-through screened walls from oor to ceiling, it felt cozy. That porch was the inspiration for this Craftsman-style screen house. Its big enough for two families to while away the best of days in. The warm glow, and the fresh scent of cedar, plus the detailed doors and a gorgeous 1x6 cedar board ceiling, make the inside of this screen house as inviting as its outside.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 1998
33
C r a f t s m a n - S t y l e
S c r e e n
H o u s e
TIME, TOOLS AND COST

A project like this requires a fair amount of carpentry experience. If youve built a wooden yard shed, a complex deck or an intricate fence, youll have the condence to tackle this project. Itll also take a huge chunk of time, so plan to take a couple of weeks off work along with a few dedicated weekends (now is the time to call in all those favors from friends youve helped over the years). Youll need basic carpentry tools for this job, with additional help from a table saw and router. Youll need a couple of stepladders for this project as well; I recommend a 6-ft. and a 12-ft. I also rented a section of 6-ft. scaffolding for about $30 a day to help with the roong. Figure on spending about $3,500 for materials (see Cutting List, p. 50) and get as much delivered to your home as possible.
PLANNING
Our porch is built over a hefty foundation of 6x6 preservativetreated pine timbers sunk in a crushed-rock base. Upright timber posts at each corner are notched and lag-bolted to the buried timbers. Each post is also lag-screwed to 2x6 treated joists. The joists hold the posts rmly in place and provide a decay-resistant framework to elevate the cedar decking above ground level. The spectacular open rafter roof is supported by cedar headers bolted to the posts and by stationary doors fastened to the corners. The curved corner brackets not only provide elegant detailing to each corner, but act as reinforced structural bracing (whatever you do, dont eliminate them). Making the nely detailed doors is simplied by building a jig to hold the door parts square for accurate and foolproof assembly. The same jig also holds the door securely for stretching the screen, stapling it to the frame and then applying the decorative door moldings.
34
This is not a small-scale project. At its longest points (the roof overhang) it measures just over 18 ft. long and 15-1/2 ft. wide. Keep these numbers in mind as you look for a place to nestle your structure. We shoehorned our screen house into the back yard of an average-size city lot and crowding the existing fence and surrounding trees. This nestling effect made it look as if the screen house grew into its surroundings. Before you do any digging, call local utilities (gas, electrical, phone, cable) to locate any buried lines. Also make some plans to get rid of the extra dirt and sod youll dig up. We ended up with about 1-1/2 cu. yds. to haul away.
Fig. A Overall Details

SEE FIG. D FOR ROOF FRAMING
K2
SEE FIG. F FOR EAVE DETAILS
J P1 P5 LI, H1
SEE FIG. E FOR RAFTER DETAILS
P6 P6 P2 L2, H2
E1, E3
M1, M3
P3
P4
M2, M4 P7
E2, E4
SEE FIG. C FOR FOUNDATION PLAN
INSTALL THROW-BOLTS AT TOP AND BOTTOM OF DOORSTOP P7
Fig. B Completed View
NOTE: Building codes in some regions require additional seismic and high-wind anchors. Ask your building inspector about local requirements.
SEE FIG. H FOR CORNER DETAILS
SEE FIG. G FOR DOOR ASSEMBLY
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 1998
35
S c r e e n
H o u s e
1
MISTREATED CARPENTER CRUSHED ROCK .60 TREATED TIMBERS FOR BEAMS (A)
LEVEL the 6x6 treated beams (A) over a trough of gravel. The gravel helps drain excess water and provides a stable bed for the foundation. Spread gravel along each beam, leaving only about 1 in. of the beam exposed.
THE FOUNDATION
Once youve staked out your perimeter on well-drained level ground (see Fig. C for the foundation dimensions), youll need to dig trenches for the 6x6 treated beams (A). (Be sure theyre .60 treated, rated for underground protection. Special-order them if necessary.) Follow the foundation plan in Fig. C for the correct placement. Dig each trench about 10 in. deep and 12 in. wide. Fill each trench with about 5 in. of crushed rock (we used crushed limestone because it packs well). Now cut the beams to length and lay them in the trench (Photo 1). Level them with each other and make sure the diagonal measurements from the ends of the two outer beams are equal. This ensures that the foundation will have square corners. The beams should sit proud of the surrounding grade about an inch so the joists that lie over them can clear the soil. Once the beams are in place, pour crushed rock around them to lock them into position. The next phase involves setting the posts (B) onto the beams. First, cut them to length and notch the bottom as shown in Photo 2. Measure in from the ends of the outer beams (A) as shown in Fig. C. Get a helper to hold the notched end of the post perfectly vertical (plumb) on the beam and aligned with the mark. Drill two 3/8-in. pilot holes through the post and into the beam. Now insert your lag screws (1/2 x 5 in.) and washers and tighten them (Photo 2). Repeat this for each post. TIP: If youre working alone, you can tack each post into position with nails and 2x4 braces. Now you can lay in the joists as shown in Photo 3 and Fig. C. The joists that connect to the posts must be cut and blocked as shown in Fig. C. You can cut and block each pair of remaining joists, or you can overlap 10-ft. joists on the center beam. Just be sure the joists that butt against the posts are
VERTICAL POST
2
B
2-3/4" x 5-1/2" NOTCH
SOCKET WRENCH
FASTEN the notched upright posts (B) to the outer foundation beams (A) with 1/2-in. x 5-in. galvanized lag screws and washers. Be sure to plumb and brace the posts as you drill a 3/8-in. pilot hole for each lag screw.
1/2" x 5" LAG SCREWS
3
2x4 BRACES
JOIST BLOCKS
(C2)
3/4" SPACE BETWEEN 1/2" x 3-1/2" LAG SCREWS JOISTS STRING LINE
INSTALL the joists at each end first, then string a line between them. Align the ends of the other joists 3/4 in. from the string (use a spacer block on each end joist as shown; see For More Information, p. 50). Then tack them in place, mark them and join them with blocks. The joists that butt against the posts must be lag-screwed to the sides of the posts to keep them from racking out of alignment.
(C1)
3/4" SPACER
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SEPTEMBER 1998
C r a f t s m a n
S t y l e
S c r e e n
H o u s e
214" OVERALL (211" JOIST SPAN) 165-1/2" (OUTSIDE OF POSTS) 160" (OUTSIDE OF BEAMS) 80"
24-1/4"
C2
C1
C3 B
48"
182"
NOTCH POST BOTTOM 2-3/4" x 5-1/2" (TYP.) C L
32" 16"
C3
133-1/2"
C1
C2
4
NAIL the 5/4 x 5-1/2 in. decking (D) to the tops of the joists with 10d finish nails. If your decking feels moist when youre nailing it, butt the sides tight. If the decking feels dry, leave a 1/16-in. space between the boards for expansion during wet weather.
D B
24-1/4"
Fig. C Foundation Plan
E3
screwed to the posts with 1/2 x 3-1/2 in. lag screws, and all the joists are toenailed with three 16d galvanized nails where they overlap each foundation beam. To nish off the foundation, nail the ve-quarter (5/4) decking (D) to the joists with 10d galvanized casing nails.
C L
B E1 E4 E2
133-1/2" 165-1/2" 66-3/4" 32" (RIDGE) C L 66-3/4"
B E2 E4
G1 G3 G2 G4 G6 G5
G1
C L 16"
HEADERS
The upper headers (E1, E2, E3 and E4) fastened from post to post (Fig. D) are the main support for the roof. The stationary doors that t later under the lower headers (M1 and M2) help support the roof as well. When you install the inner headers (E1 and E2), be sure your posts are plumb and that the distance from post to post is identical at the top and bottom of the posts. Lagscrew (1/2 x 3-1/2 in.) the inner headers to the posts as shown in Photo 5, then nail the outer headers over the inner headers with a pair of 10d galvanized nails every 16 in.
F G1 G3
G2
16" 16"
G4 E1 L2 H2 H1 E3 G6
16" 16" 16" 16" 14-1/2"
G5
14-1/2"
L1
Fig. D Roof Framing
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 1998
37
S c r e e n
H o u s e
THE RAFTERS
Think of these supports as a structural skeleton to hold the roof skin in place. Our roof has three basic types of rafters: common, hip and jack. Pick your lumber for the rafters carefully because theyll be visible when the project is nished. The common rafters (Photo 6) are all the same length and have the same miter cut at the top and the same birds-mouth or notch cut near the bottom. Cut them to the dimensions in Fig. E and nail them to the ridge board (F). Support the ridge board temporarily with a 12-ft. 2x6 toenailed to the decking and to the ridge itself. The top of the ridge should be roughly 123 in. up from the decking (you may need to raise or lower it slightly for a tight t for the miter cuts on the rafters). Once you like the t, fasten all the common rafters to the ridge board with 16d galvanized nails. Nail the rafters through the ridge from the back to hide the nailheads. The four hip rafters (Photo 8) rest over each corner and meet the ends of the ridge board. Youll notice that the upper miter is a compound cut. This miter angle differs from that of the common rafters (Fig. E), and youll notice it has a 45-degree bevel cut on each side along with the miter cut. This allows the hip rafters to t snugly between the common rafters. The birds-mouth notch is also unusual because it sits at an angle to the common rafters. You can leave a bit of extra length at the overhang of each hip rafter and trim it to nal length once the other rafters are in place. The jack rafters (Photo 8 and Fig. E) rest on the header just like the common rafters and have the same degree measurement at the top. However, the edge of the jack rafter has a 45-degree bevel (a cheek cut) so it ts tight against the hip rafter. Toenail
Continued on p. 43
SCREW the inner headers (E1 and E2) flush with the top of the posts. Drill a 1/2-in. deep recess with a 1-1/4 in. spade bit, then a 1/2-in. dia. clearance hole for the lag screws. Be sure to drill a 3/8-in. pilot hole into the post.
5
E1
1/2" x 3-1/2" LAG SCREWS
NOTE COUNTERBORE FOR LAG SCREW HEADS
E2
INNER HEADERS
INSTALL the common rafters (G1) first. These rafters are all identical and get nailed to the ridge (F) above and to the headers below. Temporarily support the ridge with a long 2x6 nailed to the decking and to the ridge.
6
COMMON RAFTERS
TEMPORARY VERTICAL SUPPORT
RIDGE BOARD (F)
(G1)
COMMON MAN
E3
E4
OUTER HEADERS
CUT the compound angles for the hip and jack rafters. Remember that opposite hips and jacks are mirror images of each other.
COMPOUND ANGLE SETTING

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
ADJUSTABLE SPEED SQUARE
SEPTEMBER 1998
39
S c r e e n
H o u s e
TOP VIEW 45 (BOTH ENDS) 133-1/16" 74
5-5/16" 1-9/16" 95-7/16"
31-1/4"
G2 HIP RAFTER
68 97-3/4"
3-3/4"
HIP RAFTER
1-9/16"
(G2)
23"
HIP SHORTS
70-11/16"
G1
80-7/8" 53-13/16"
COMMON RAFTER
JACK RAFTERS
G3
63-9/16" 36-1/2" CUT 4 EACH WAY (TYPICAL) 19-3/4"
8
NAIL the jack rafters to the hip rafters (8d galvanized) and to the header below (16d galvanized). Sight all the tails to make sure theyre aligned. Trim slightly if necessary.
G4
46-3/16"
G5
30-1/2"
45
3-7/16"
Continued from p. 39
G6 JACK RAFTERS
45
TOP VIEW
each of these cheek cuts to the side of the hip with three 8d galvanized nails. Note that the cheek cuts (Fig. E) on each side of the hip rafter are mirror images of each other. When youre nished installing the rafters, nail the subfascia (H1, H2) to the tails of the rafters and install the 2x6 lower headers (M1, M2) directly beneath the upper headers. Also nail (8d galvanized casing) the 5/4 header trim (M3, M4) to nish off the transition between the upper headers and the lower header. TIP: Before you set the roof boards over the rafters, nail temporary 2x4 braces on two sides of the structure, from the middle of the header diagonally to the bottom of the post. This will minimize any racking during the building process.
Fig. E Rafter Details
BUILDING PAPER
E1, E2
E3, E4 N
K216" SHAKES; 5-1/2" EXPOSURE, 1" OVERHANG
B
LAG BOLT
J M3, M4 M1, M2
2x6 RAFTERS (TYPICAL)
P3, P4
3/4"
H1, H2
L1, L2
Fig. F Eave Details

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 1998
43
SERIOUS FASCIA
S c r e e n
H o u s e
9
SNAP CHALK LINE HERE FOR CUT
CEDAR ROOF DECKING (J)
CEDAR SUBFASCIA
H2 H1
NAIL the 1x6 cedar roof boards (J) to the tops of the rafters after installing the subfascia (H1 and H2) over the exposed ends of the rafter tails. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the boards and alternate end joints so they dont all fall on the same rafter. We used a combination of 12-ft. and 8-ft. long boards. Finish opposite sides first, then trim the board ends to length all at once (set your circular saw at a 15-degree bevel).
ROOFING
Much of the beauty of the interior comes from the 1x6 cedar boards visible between the rafters. These boards alone, however, arent enough to give stability to the structure, so theyre backed with 5/8-in. CDX plywood. The plywood also adds enough thickness to keep the shingle nails from poking through the underside of the roof. First, nail the 1x6 roof boards to the rafters (Photo 9) with 8d nails. Start at the bottom ush with the ends of the rafters and work your way to the top, leaving a 1/8-in. clearance between the boards. Overlay the plywood onto the 1x6 and nail it through the plywood and roof boards into the rafters with 10d nails. Once the plywood layer is complete, nail the nished fascia (L1, L2) over the subfascia and align it with the bottom edge of the plywood. Next, roll on the 30-lb. roong felt and overlap each layer by 3 in. Then nail the No. 2 cedar shingles to the roof deck (Photo 11) with 4d galvanized nails (follow the positioning instructions that come with each bundle). The rst course of shingles must be double thickness and overhang the fascia (L1, L2) by 1 in. Youll need to trim the cedar shingles to conform to the angle above the hip as you lay them. Once youve nished shingling, cover the gaps over the hip by ripping 4-in. wide pieces of shingle to create a cap over the hips and ridge.
1 0
5/8" CDX PLYWOOD
INSTALL the 5/8-in. CDX plywood over the top of the 1x6 cedar roof boards. Use 10d nails to secure the plywood through the roof boards to the rafters. Leave a 1/8-in. gap between plywood panels to allow for weather changes.
H2 H1
CEDAR SUBFASCIA
30-LB. ROOFING FELT
1 1
5-1/2" EXPOSURE
NO. 2 CEDAR SHINGLES
INSTALL the shingles over 30-lb. roofing felt using 4d galvanized box nails. Overhang the shingles 1 in. beyond the face of the fascia.
1" OVERHANG DOUBLE THICKNESS ON FIRST COURSE
FASCIA
L1, L2
44
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SEPTEMBER 1998
S c r e e n
H o u s e
MAKING DOORS
Making the doors is the most time-consuming part of the project, so we broke it down into manageable tasks. Since you can build them in the garage on a work table, its the perfect job for rainy days. First cut the door stiles (side pieces) and the rails (upper and lower horizontal pieces) to length. Then set up a simple jig (Photo 12) to use with your router to make the half-lap joints on the ends of all the stile and rails. Use a 3/4in. straight bit. If you have a radial arm saw, you could make the half laps with a dado blade. Fig. G Door Assembly
HALF-LAP CORNERS
ROUT the laps for the door frame joints using a homemade router jig screwed to a plywood work surface. The door frames are made from 2x4 and 2x6 cedar. The side stiles and top rail are 2x4. The bottom rail is 2x6.
1 2
ROUTER JIG
ROUT TO HERE
FINISHED LAP
STOP BLOCK
S4 R1 S5
5"
ASSEMBLE each door using a jig to ensure each frame is square. Apply construction adhesive to the lap joints on each corner, then screw the parts of each lap joint together with five 1-1/4 in. decking screws. Keep the screws at least 1 in. from the edges of the frame because youll need to trim the door to size later.
1 3
R1 Q
Story Number1428 Story Name Screenho IssueSeptember 19 EditorDave Radtke Art DirectorBob Ung Tech Art Version2F
R2
1-1/4" GALV. SCREWS LAP JOINTS
BLOCKS
S2
1/2 x 1-1/4" NOTCH

Q S4 S4 Q
5" SPACES (TYP.) DOOR PULL
FLIP the door over once youve assembled the frame. Cut your 30-in. wide screen to length (leave an extra 2 in. on each end for stretching) and staple it to the frame every 2 in. with 1/4-in. staples. Its best to start at the top and work your way down each side for a tight-fitting screen.
1 4
ALUMINUM SCREEN
S1 S4
S5 S3 R2
SELF-CLOSING HINGES
SEPTEMBER 1998
47
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 1998
47
S c r e e n
H o u s e
1/2" x 1-1/4" DOOR BARS
1 5
CUT your screen molding and muntin trim to size from 2x6 cedar using a table saw. Attach the screen molding to the door frame using 3d galvanized finish nails.
The next step is to set up a 3/4-in. thick, 4 x 8-ft. plywood work surface over a pair of sawhorses. Use scrap wood to make blocks (Photo 13) to hold the door parts square. Before you apply screen to the door frames, ip them over so the screws are on the back and then staple the screen as shown in Photo 14. Once the screen is applied to the doors, you can cut the moldings (see Fig. G) from 2x6 cedar (use a table saw) and nail them to the door frame with small screen molding nails.
1/2" x 3/4" SCREEN MOLDING
INSTALLING THE DOORS

Before you install the doors, nail the cleats to the deck (Photo 16) and the upper doorstop to the inside edge of the lower header. Its best to use a string line to mark the deck to get the oor cleats positioned in a straight line. To align the doors properly in the opening, nd the center of each side and measure each door width (mark it off on the deck) back to the corners. You may have to trim each doors height slightly to t the opening. The stationary doors should t snugly, and the operable doors need 3/16-in. clearance on the bottom and 1/8-in. on the top. Screw the corner doors to the post (the door edge should cover roughly half the post), the upper doorstop and the lower oor cleat. The longer side has an additional door, which should be positioned tight to the corner door and nailed to the oor cleat and the upper doorstop. The operable doors (the double doors on the front and back, and the single on the long side) must be shimmed on the bottom and top (Photo 18). This will hold them in place while you screw the self-closing hinges to the adjacent stationary door frame and the swinging door. Remove the shims and make sure the operable doors swing freely. To nish the door system, youll need to install the vertical stop (P5, P6, P7) as shown in Fig. A to the back of the doors. This trim runs from the oor cleats to the upper doorstop, covers the gaps between the doors and nishes off the interior. Finish each exposed post with a cedar 2x4 and a 2x6 (T1 and T2; see Fig. H) that are ripped to width and then cut to length. Be sure the front of the screen house has the wider piece to overlap the longer side post trim.
1 6
TEMPORARY DECK TO ROOF BRACING REMOVED FOR PHOTO CLARITY
INSTALL the floor cleats (P1 and P2) even with the outer edges of the posts. Then fasten the cleats to the stationary doors to secure them to the decking.
5/4 x 5/4 FLOOR CLEATS
1 7
UPPER DOORSTOP (P3)
FIT each stationary door, trimming the top or bottom if necessary. Once each stationary door fits snugly from the floor to the header, screw it to the upper doorstop (P3) and the floor cleats (P1 and P2) with 2-in. galvanized screws.
48
S c r e e n
H o u s e
THE CORNER BRACKETS

Cut the bracket supports and the curved corner brackets (U1, U2) as shown in Fig. H. Notice that the top of the bracket support is notched to t over the header trim. Screw the bracket supports (predrill all these holes) to the corner trim with 3-1/2 in. galvanized screws (use three screws for each bracket). Next, screw the curved corner bracket to each bracket support (two screws on each side) and to the upper jack rafter (four 3-in. screws here). Now youre ready to clean up the work site and enjoy the rest of the summer in your beautiful outdoor space.
ATTACH the freeswinging doors to the stationary doors with self-closing face-mounted hinges. Use three hinges per door and make sure each door has a bit more than 1/8-in. clearance on all sides.
1 8
SELF-CLOSING HINGES
SHIM
INSTALL the eight corner brackets (U2) to the bracket cleats (U1) with 3-in. galvanized screws. The corner brackets are structural as well as decorative. See Fig. H for details.
1 9
CURVED BRACKET
(U2)
Story Number Story Name S BRACKET SUPPORT IssueSepte (U1) EditorDave Art Director Tech Art Versi
Fig. H Corner Details

HEADER TRIM (M4) NOTCH TOPS OF U1 TO FIT HEADER TRIM
G6 G2 N
M3 G5
G6 U2
U1
DOOR FRAME
U2
1" REVEAL
T1
T2 B T1 T2
U2
DOOR FRAME
U1 U2 U1 B
EACH SQ.=2"
49
S c r e e n
H o u s e
Cutting List
KEY A B C1 C2 C3 D E1 E2 E3 E4 F G1 G2 G3 G4 G5 G6 H1 H2 J K1 K2 L1 L2 M1 M2 M3 M4 N P1 P2 P3 QTY. 3 4 30 15 2 39 2 2 2 2 1 8 4 8 8 8 8 2 2 800 11 400 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 2 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 5-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 182 .60 treated timber (beams) 5-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 103 .60 treated timber (posts) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 105-1/2 .40 treated (joists) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 12 .40 treated (joist blocks) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 182 .40 treated (rim joists) 5/4 x 5-1/2 x 16 cedar decking 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 165-1/2 cedar (inner headers) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 136-1/2 cedar (inner headers) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 168-1/2 cedar (outer headers) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 139-1/2 cedar (outer headers) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 32 cedar (ridge board) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 10 cedar (common rafters)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 12 cedar (hip rafters)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 7 cedar (jack rafters)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 6 cedar (jack rafters)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 4 cedar (jack rafters)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 3 cedar (jack rafters)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 214 cedar (subfascia) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 185 cedar (subfascia) linear ft. of 3/4 x 5-1/2 cedar 5/8 x 4 x 8 CDX plywood sq. ft. of No. 2 cedar shingles 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 217 cedar (fascia cut from two pieces) 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 186-1/2 cedar (fascia cut from two pieces) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 165-1/2 cedar (lower headers)* 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 136-1/2 cedar (lower headers)* 5/4 x 2-3/4 x 167-1/2 cedar (header trim)* 5/4 x 2-3/4 x 138-1/2 cedar (header trim)* 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 14 cedar (outer rafter blocking)* 5/4 x 5/4 x 61-1/4 cedar (oor cleats)* 5/4 x 5/4 x 29-1/2 cedar (oor cleats)* 5/4 x 2-3/4 x 149 cedar (upper doorstop)*
Hardware & Miscellaneous

P4 P5 P6 P7 Q R1 R2 S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 T1 T2 U1 U2 2 4 8 2 36 18 18 108 18 18 18 72 4 4 16 8 5/4 x 2-3/4 x 122-1/2 cedar (upper doorstop)* 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 78-1/8 cedar (vertical doorstop)* 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 79-1/4 cedar (notched vert. doorstop)* 3/4 x 2-3/4 x 79 cedar (swinging vert. doorstop)* 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 80 cedar (door stiles) 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 32 cedar (door top rails) 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 32 cedar (door bottom rails) 1/2 x 1-1/4 x 28 cedar (horizontal door bars) 1/2 x 1-1/4 x 74 cedar (vertical door bars) 1/2 x 1-1/4 x 32-3/4 cedar (vertical door bars) 1/2 x 3/4 x 17 cedar (screen molding) 3/4 x 2 x 5 cedar (decorative door squares) 1-1/2 x 2-3/4 x 80 cedar (corner trim)* 1-1/2 x 4-1/4 x 80 cedar (corner trim)* 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 26 cedar (bracket supports) 1-1/2 x 9-1/4 x 36 cedar (curved brackets)* QTY. ITEM 1 cu. yd. Crushed rock 1/2 x 5 galv. lag screws 8 1/2 x 3-1/2 galv. lag screws 24 16d galvanized nails 5 lbs. 15 lbs. 10d galvanized casing nails 5 lbs. 8d galvanized nails 15 lbs. 4d galvanized nails 3d galvanized nish nails 2 lbs. (screen molding) 2 lbs. 2 galvanized screws 3 galvanized screws 2 lbs. 3-1/2 galvanized screws 2 lbs. 30-lb. roong felt 400 sq. ft. 1/4 staples 3 small boxes 30 black aluminum screen 120 ft.

Tips for Successful Measuring and Marking, May 98, p. 79. I Using Tools, March 98, p. 25. Getting rid of grass. I Using Tools Special Section: Circular Saws, June 94, p. 32. I Using Tools, March 95, p. 18. Chalk boxes. I Using Tools, July/Aug. 96, p. 13. Router basics.
I Pro
* Cut to t
Art Direction BOB UNGAR Photos Bill Zuehlke Illustrations EUGENE THOMPSON Design Consultant LEWIS MORAN Carpentry DAN STOFFEL and JON JENSEN
50
Part 1 Foundation and framing

Two-level
Craftsman storage shed

Engineered for simplicitydo-it-yourself trusses and complete framing plans.
by David Radtke
ho says a yard shed cant be beautiful? This shed would grace any yard because its well designed and built to last. The foundation is concrete, and the 2x4 walls are skinned with 1/2-in. plywood followed by cedar siding. And the roof is factory-painted steel screwed to heavy-duty trusses that you make yourself. This solid shed has a 10 x 10-ft. lower storage area, and nearly 17 x 4 ft. of storage in the attic. This long, narrow space above is great for storing an extension ladder, planks, a kayak, a canoeor all the above! Im not gonna sugarcoat this and tell you itll only take a week to build. Its obvious from the details that this backyard project can take four to ve full weeks of work. But when youre nished, youll have something to be proud of. You can easily break the project down into manageable steps and pick up where you left off at a later
date. In fact, weve divided this article into two parts, with Part 2 coming in July/August. This article (Part 1) covers setting the forms, pouring the slab, and building the basic wall and roof framing. These framing techniques apply to any wood framing project, even a big project like building a garage or an addition. Well walk you through the step-by-step framing process, plus the drawings will give you accurate measurements to use as a cutting guide. If youve built a deck before, you can tackle this job. Beyond basic carpentry tools like a circular saw, level, tape measure, drill and screw gun, youll need some concrete nishing tools and 8-ft. and 10-ft. stepladders. A pneumatic stapler is a great help but not essential. A grand project like this is naturally going to cost more than a shed kit available at home centers. Youll spend about $460 for concrete and forms plus $3,500 for materials, including the metal roong.
32
What you get:
I 10 x 10-ft. lower-level storage I Spacious 4 x 17-ft. attic storage I Wide double-door access I Covered porch workspace I Low-maintenance nish I Bright interior I Steel brackets for no-split fastening Huge attic storage
Look for Part 2 in the July/August issue

33
Craftsman Storage Shed
Pour your slab on a level site

1/2" PLYWOOD ur site sloped 5 in. from GUSSETS (BOTH SIDES OF front to back. If yours slopes 90 COMMON more than that, you may need to do TRUSSES) RAFTER, 2x4grading. some excavating and 102-1/2" LONG
1"
NO. 4 STEEL REBAR
45
1x3 STAKES
REMOVE all vegetation within 6 in. of the slab site. Roughly level the soil and dig the perimeter to a 7-in. depth (Fig. A). Set the 2x8 forms straight, square and level with 1x3 stakes. Coat the inside surface of the forms with vegetable oil so theyll be easier to remove. Lay two levels of No. 4 rebar around the perimeter (Fig. A).
2x4 SCREED
arrives. If it looks like rain that morning, call and cancel the con2" GUSSET crete delivery, then reschedule. If possible, pick a clear 75-degree 10" the concrete. The slab Remove the turf from the site day to pour 2x4 STRUT 6" (this is a must) plus will turn out better if its not too 22-1/2 at least 6 in. GUSSET around the perimeter 49" to allow for hot, and you wont wear yourself 2x6 Use 2x8 GUSSET fastening the forms. forms out from heat exposure. Wear eye CHORD 4" x 8" 45 and screw them into 1x3 stakes that protection, gloves and boots. you can buy at a lumberyard. Concrete can burn your skin with Start by cutting the forms to too much contact, so rinse your 10' length, then set them along one side skin with water immediately if it and square the other sides to it. splashes on you. Drive a support stake 10 in. into the Before you pour, lay No. 4 rebar ground about every 4 ft. and near of GUSSETS (Photo 1) around the perimeter 1/2" PLYWOOD FACE ONLY every corner. Measure the diagonals the slab to reinforce the (INSIDE edges. Lift 2x4 RAFTER, OF GABLE TRUSSES) of the forms to check squareness102-1/2" LONG the rebar to center it in the slab. Set and use a 4-ft. level to ensure that your anchor bolts and the post GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8" the forms are perfectly level. Cut off anchors nearby so you wont forget 1 x 3 PURLIN POSITION all the stakes even with the tops of to push them into the wet concrete.GUSSET (TYPICAL) the forms. This fussing over mainFor more details on pouring and 3-1/2" x 6" 2x6 STRUT see Building a taining square and level is impornishing concrete, GUSSET tant: If your foundation is off, youll Concrete Pad, July/Aug. 96, p. 80, 3-1/2" x 8 2x4 ght a host of problems all the or Pour a 24-1/4" Concrete Sidewalk, HEADER 2x4 way to the roof. See Fig. A for May 00, p. 96. (To order copies, 2x6 QUEEN 43-3/4" CHORD slab details. see p. 108.) POST Calculate the volume of concrete Note: If concrete work is not your youll need and order an extra 1/4 idea of fun, you can have a pro do 10' cu. yd. for insurance. For our 10 x the job for you, but expect to pay 18-ft. slab, we ordered 3 cu. yds. of about $1,400. If you do it yourself, concrete two days ahead of time. Be youll only have to pay about $375 sure youve got at least two strong for the concrete plus $85 for rebar, people to help when the concrete anchor bolts and forms.
0" 98 -1 /2 " 85 -1 /2 72 " " 48 " 24 " 1"
GUSSET 4" x 4-1/2"
7-3/4"
TRUSSE Version
17"
17"
19-1/4" ANCHOR BOLT, WASHER AND NUT 2x4 SILL
2x4 PLATES, FASTEN WITH 2-1/2" TAPCON SCREWS AND CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE
NO. 4 REBARS POURED CONCRETE SLAB 10'
POUR the concrete and screed it level with the forms. Be sure to have your anchor bolts and post brackets ready to set into the fresh concrete. Mark the locations on your forms. After the anchor bolts and post bases are positioned, finish the surface with a steel trowel. Cover the concrete with plastic for three days.
6-1/2" TO 7" 12"

SECTION AT EDGE
4x4 POST ANCHOR 15" 15" 30" 18' 6" 19-1/4"
9' 5"
10' (SIDE WALL)
FIG. A SLAB LAYOUT

34
FIG. B FRAMING/SHEATHING

2x6 BLOCKING; TRIM TOP AT 45 DEGREES TRUSS
TRUSS CHORD 1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM
1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR 2x4 CLEAT GABLE TRUSS; SEE FIG. D
STEEL ANCHOR
COMMON TRUSSES, 24" O.C.; SEE FIG. C
TOP PLATE
DETAIL 1
GABLE TRUSS; SEE FIG. D 1x3 PURLINS 2x4 DIAGONAL BRACE
DETAIL 2
15" OVERHANG (SEE TEXT)
1/2" PLYWOOD TRUSS FLOOR
1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING EXTENDS OVER BEAM
DOUBLE 2x6 BEAMS C L 8-3/4" 4x4 PRESSURETREATED POST 2x4 SUPPORTS 2x4 FRAMING SEE FIGS. E,F,G FOR WALL FRAMING DOUBLE 2x6 JOIST HANGER
POST BRACKET 28" METAL POST BASE
83"
1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING
17" SQUARE
1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING (TYPICAL)
STAGGER BEAM ENDS LINE UP OUTER CORNER OF POST AND BEAMS
CONCRETE SLAB; SEE FIG. A
POST BRACKET (BEND FLANGE DOWN)
DETAIL 3
35
Build strong roof trusses
TOP OF TRUSS
1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSETS
2x6 CHORD
RIP strips from 1/2-in. CDX plywood to make the gussets for the trusses. Cut them into the shapes shown in Figs. C and D. Also cut the members for the first common truss.
nce the slab has cured for a couple of days, youll be champing at the bit to get the walls built. Resist the urge and build the trusses rst while youve got a clean, at slab as a workspace. Study Figs. C and D for the truss dimensions and refer to the Materials List on p. 37 for the materials youll need. Dont build the trusses on a surface that isnt at; irregularities can throw off the trusses just enough to cause headaches later. Follow Photos 3 5 for instructions. Note: Rent a 1/2-in. crown pneumatic stapler to fasten the gussets to the trusses, and rent a 1/4-in. crown stapler to fasten the gable shingles. Use a minimum of six staples per gusset (and dont forget the construction adhesive). The pneumatic stapler will really speed up the process. Youll probably save a few hours on this phase of the project. If you choose to hand-nail the gussets, use 6d common nails (eight nails per gusset). Establish a front and back side for
GLUE and staple the gussets to the common truss members using construction adhesive and a pneumatic stapler loaded with 1-1/8 in. staples. Once youve finished stapling the gussets to one side, flip the truss and attach the gussets to the other side. When this truss is completed, mark one side front and the other back to maintain consistency in the trusses. Note: The two gable end trusses (Fig. D) have gussets on the inner sides only. Measure the struts of this truss and cut the same length for the other trusses.
1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSETS (BOTH SIDES OF COMMON TRUSSES)
GUSSET 4" x 4-1/2" 90
7-3/4"
GUSSET 2x4 RAFTER, 102-1/2" LONG 2x4 STRUT
2"
10" 6" GUSSET
1"
45
22-1/2 49" 2x6 CHORD GUSSET 4" x 8"
45
10'
FIG. C
36
COMMON TRUSS
0"
2x4 RAFTER, 102-1/2" LONG

24 "
1/2" PLYW (INSIDE FA OF GABLE
1"
GUSS 3-1/2
Craftsman Storage Shed Materials List

ITEM Trusses:
1/2-in. CDX plywood 2x4 x 10 spf (spruce, pine or r) 2x6 x 10 spf
QTY.
1 sheet 40 15 12 12 38 4 1 1 1 4 4
Purlins:
1x3 x 10 spf 1x3 x 8 spf
Walls, beams, posts and plates:

2x4 x 7 spf 2x4 x 8 spf 4x4 x 14 spf 2x6 x 10 spf 2x6 x 7 spf 2x4 x 10 treated 2x4 x 10 spf
FINISHED TRUSS AS PATTERN
2x4 BLOCKS FOR POSITIONING
Wall sheathing and loft oor:

1/2-in. CDX plywood 1/2" PLYWOOD
GUSSET x 4-1/2" 4" 15

2 4 4 14 2
7-3/4"
TRUSSES and SLAB Version 4F 4/10/01

2"
Brackets and y rafters: GUSSETS (BOTH SIDES OF 4x4 x 10 cedar COMMON 2x8 x 10 cedar TRUSSES)
1x2 x 10 cedar
90 GUSSET 2x4 RAFTER, 102-1/2" LONG 2x4 STRUT 49" 2x6 CHORD
Roong:
3-ft. wide x 102 steel roof panels
10" 6" GUSSET
1" steel roof caps 10-ft. 12/12 pitch 45

Roong panels can be ordered at most home centers.
22-1/2 GUSSET 4" x 8"
Siding:
No. 2 cedar shingles for gable ends 1/2 x 5-1/2 cedar siding (4-1/2 exposure) 15-lb. and 30-lb. roong felt
45
4 bundles 800 ln. ft. 1 roll of each
Trim (corners, windows and doors, gables):

2x6 x 10 cedar 2x8 x 12 cedar 1x4 x 10 cedar 1x8 x 8 (beam wraps and ceiling) 5/4 x 6 x 8 cedar (ripped for door and window trim) 2x4 x 8 cedar windowsill 2 2 7 5 18 1 6 6 2
USE your first truss as the pattern truss for the other common and gable end trusses. Screw 2x4 blocks to the pattern truss as shown, 10'then lay each truss piece over the pattern truss to ensure theyre all a uniform size and shape. Remember: Mark front and back sides for each truss to maintain consistency. Assemble all the trusses and stack them flat and away from the slab.
0"
2x4 RAFTER, 102-1/2" LONG
1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSETS (INSIDE FACE ONLY OF GABLE TRUSSES) GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8" GUSSET 3-1/2" x 6" GUSSET 3-1/2" x 8"
1x6 x 8 cedar window jamb and stop 22 x 41-1/4 window barn sash
48 "
Windows:
1 x 3 PURLIN POSITION (TYPICAL)
Doors:
/2
36 solid-core birch exterior doors 22 x 29 window barn sash 1/2 x 5-1/2 x 8 cedar door facing 1/2 x 5-1/2 x 7 cedar door facing 1x6 x 7 pine door jambs Pine shims
72
"
"
24 "
2x6 STRUT
1"
24-1/4"
85
/2
98
2 6 3 4 pkgs.
2x4 QUEEN POST
-1
2x4 HEADER 43-3/4" 2x6 CHORD
"
-1
GUSSET 6" x 10"
Front posts (except 4x4s):

1x12 x 10 cedar tapered post wrap 1x3 x 8 cedar post trim 2x8 x10 cedar base caps (miter to t) 2x4 x 10 cedar column capitals 2x4 x 10 treated column base framing 2x4 x 7 spf framing for column bases 1/2 exterior treated plywood Wire stucco mesh Roong felt (see siding) Cultured stone column faade Dry mortar mix (60-lb. bag) 4 2 2 1 1 5 2 30 sq. ft.
10'
FIG. D GABLE TRUSS

each truss when you use the pattern the next. After the trusses are built, method described in Photo 5. This nd a spot away from the slab to set will ensure that your trusses are unithem at while you build the walls. form along the whole structure and 19-1/4" that your metal roof wont kink because of dips from one truss to ANCHOR BOLT,CRAFTSMAN SHED More
NO. 4 REBARS
HANDYMAN THE FAMILY POURED JUNE 2001
17"
30 sq. ft.
17" 2
Materials List continued on p. 50
2x4 PLATES, FASTEN WITH 2-1/2" TAPCON SCREWS AND CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE
WASHER AND NUT
37
2x4 SILL
CONCRETE SLAB
3-1/2"
TIE PLATE
2x4s (TYP.) 2x4 KING STUD DOUBLED 2x6 HEADER 36-3/4" 46-1/2" 36-3/4" 43-1/2" 10" 88-1/2"
SOLE PLATE
TRIMMER STUD
TRANSFER MEASUREMENT FROM HERE ANCHOR BOLT
7' STUDS (TYP.) 35" BACK
SNAPPED LAYOUT LINE
SNAP lines onto your slab 3-1/2 in. in from the edge of the slab to establish the layout for the walls. Cut the pressuretreated sole plates for the 2x4 wall assemblies, then set them inside the line and measure the anchor bolt distance as shown.
16" SPACING (TYPICAL)
15-1/4"
FIG. E SIDE WALL
Frame the walls and tip them up

ts best to snap lines on the slab openings. Marking both plates at that correspond to the inside the same time will make layout misedges of each wall, then cut your takes less likely. Follow the wall sole (bottom) plate and your top dimensions in Figs. E, F and G. Build plate from 10-ft. 2x4s. To use the the back wall rst and tip it up and chalk line, just measure in 3-1/2 in. Version brace it2F while you frame the side WALLS 410/01 from the edge of the slab near the More CRAFTSMAN SHED end of each wall section, pull a 10' (OVERALL) chalk line tight over your marks 3-1/2" 9' 5" (OVERALL) and snap it. Youll appreciate the lines because theyll help you accu4-1/2" DOUBLE 2x4 rately position the walls, even if TIE HEADER PLATE C L you have a straight slab. Follow the steps in Photos 6 and DOUBLE 2x6 JOIST HANGER 7 for drilling holes in the sole plate for the anchor bolts. Sometimes youll nd that an anchor bolt falls 8-3/4" right under a stud location. If this 88-1/2" happens, you can move the stud off the layout as long as it doesnt 1/2" SHEATHING affect window or door placement. 74-1/2" WIDE x 82" HIGH 2x4s If it does, simply cut off the anchor ROUGH (TYP.) OPENING bolt ush with the slab and install a CUT OUT SILL drive-in-type concrete anchor after AFTER INSTALLING the wall is positioned. 19-1/4" C WALLS L Line up the top and bottom plates to mark your stud locations along with door and window header
38
TRANSFER the measurement for the bolt location onto the topside of the sole plates. Drill 1/2-in. diameter holes with a spade bit so the bolts will slide through easily after the wall is built and positioned. Tip: Set a block under the plate to prevent your drill bit from hitting the slab as you penetrate the other side.
FIG. F FRONT WALL

3-1/2" TIE PLATE
HEADER TRIMMER
SOLE PLATE TOP PLATE
CRIPPLE STUDS SILL
7' STUDS
WINDOW ROUGH OPENING
SIDE WALL
NAIL each 2x4 wall assembly together using two 16d cement-coated nails at each connection. Nail the studs to the sole plate and the top plate. Do not nail the tie plates (2x4s above the top plate) to the top plates at this time. See Fig. E for window opening details to make your header and trimmers and cripple studs. Note that the side walls fit against the back wall.
TIP the walls up and drop them over the concrete anchors. Start with the back wall first. Temporarily brace the walls to keep them from falling in the wind, and tack the corners together with 16d nails. Dont drive the nails home until the plates are fastened and youre sure the top plates line up. Hammer the top plate from above if the tops of the walls arent flush.
Lay out and build each wall section

walls. The stud spacing is measured specically to accommodate 4- or 8ft. wide sheathing plywood so the seams will always land on a stud.
10' (OVERALL) 9' 5" (OVERALL)
C L
TIE PLATE
2x4s (TYP.)
C L
3-1/2" 16" (TYP.) 16" 11-3/4"
7' STUDS (TYP.)
C L
C L
Make the window headers from two lengths of 2x6. Cut and nail (use 16d sinker nails) these pieces together, then drop them between the king studs. Nail them to the king studs and the top plate. Next nail the trimmer stud to the king stud and then install the sill and the cripple studs (Photo 8) below the sill. After youve framed the walls, tip them up into position (Photo 9), brace them, then fasten the sole plates to the anchor bolts. Before you nail the wall corners together, climb up your stepladder and hammer along the top plate above the stud locations. This is necessary because the studs can work loose a bit from moving the walls and tipping them into position. Hammering down on the top plate will close any gaps so that the walls end up all the same height before you nail the corners together. More CRAFTSMAN SHED
SIDE WALL
BACK WALL ANCHOR BOLT, WASHER AND NUT
10
MAKE SURE the walls line up with the chalk lines you snapped earlier on your slab. Tighten the nuts on the anchor bolts. Align the corners and nail the wall sections together with 16d nails.
FIG. G BACK WALL

40
Tie the walls together, then plumb the corners

DIAGONAL BRACE TIE PLATE 4' LEVEL
FRONT WALL
11
NAIL the tie plates to the top plates of each wall near each stud location. Drive two nails over each corner to lock the walls together.
1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING DOUBLE 2x6 JOIST HANGER
13
NAIL diagonal braces across the wall once youve got each corner perfectly plumb (a helper is a must). Nail the brace at the sole plate, top plate and near the center of the wall. Nail 1/2-in. plywood sheathing to the front walls with 8d nails to brace them.
FRONT WALL
8-3/4" TO CENTER
PLATE BELOW DOOR OPENING
UNDERCUT MADE BEFORE ASSEMBLY
12
CUT OUT the bottom plate (your toes will appreciate this) for the doorway once the walls are secured to the slab. Note the undercut on the sole plate made before the wall was nailed together. This cut saves on saw blades!
ut tie plates from 2x4s and nail them (with 16d sinkers) to the top plate near the stud locations. Dont use tie plate material shorter than 3 ft. Add braces (Photo 13) to the walls as you plumb the corners. The braces are necessary to keep the walls straight and solid while you install the trusses and nail the sheathing to the studs. Nail the braces from sole plate to top plate and into the studs. Then use a 4-ft. level to check the walls for plumb. Check both ends of a wall and split the difference to give the best
42
14
NAIL the double joist hangers to the front wall on each side so the top of the 2x6 beam will be flush with the top of the tie plate (Fig. B). Add another stud to the backside of the plywood if necessary to catch the joist hanger nails.
possible corners. Its unlikely that all wall corners will be perfect. You may have to compromise and get each corner nearly perfect. More CRAFTSMAN SHED
Set the front posts and beams square to the main shed
DOUBLE 2x6 FRONT BEAM 2x6 SIDE BEAM
4' LEVEL 4x4 POST ANCHOR, EMBEDDED IN CONCRETE 4x4 TREATED POST
83"
15
O
SCREW the 4x4 posts to the steel anchors using special screws designed for steel connectors. Be sure the post is close to plumb as you drive the screws.
nce youve got the front wall sheathed with plywood (Photo 13), measure from the outside corner and then down from the tie plate on each side to mark the position for the double joist hanger (Photo 14). These hangers will cradle the side beams and connect them to the main structure. (The side beams are structural.) Because the nailing pattern of joist hangers varies by brand, you may need to add another wall stud to be sure your nails hit solid wood. Lay the extra stud at behind the plywood and nail it to the plates. Next set the front posts into the anchors you installed when you poured the slab. Use special Simpson Strong-Drive steel fastener screws plus two 1/4 x 1-1/2 in. lag screws per post. If your anchor is slightly off position, you can slide the post forward or back to compensate. Just make sure the base position of each 4x4 post is exactly the same distance from the front wall. Note: Cut the top of the 4x4 posts 5-1/2 in. shorter than the wall height.
16
NAIL together the 2x6s that make each beam. Use a pair of 16d nails every 16 in. Set the two side beams first, then tack them to the joist hangers. Fasten them to the front posts. Notice how the beams interlock in the inset. Nail each end of the front beam into the side beams with three 16d nails. Each steel anchor for the top post and beam must have one side flange bent down to fasten under the beam.
TEMPORARY 2x4 BRACES
BACKSIDE GABLE TRUSS
17
MARK the truss layout on the top plates, starting at the back wall. Measure 16-in. centers. Tip up the rear gable end truss first, making sure its centered on the wall. Use temporary braces nailed to the wall framing to help support the truss until the roof framing is completed. Set the front gable truss as well using temporary supports.
Nail the beams in place as shown in Photo 16. Screw the beam-topost anchors on top of each 4x4. Bend down the arm of the anchor to secure the beam to the post. The
44
beams should be ush with the outside edges of the posts. Plumb the posts and add a brace (Photo 18). More CRAFTSMAN SHED
Set the trusses and anchor them

STEEL ANCHOR #A23 TRUSS TIE PLATE STRING LINE COMMON TRUSSES HORIZONTAL BRACE
LAYOUT MARK
DIAGONAL BRACE
18
SET each common truss after youve set the gable end trusses. Tie a string tightly between the gable trusses (about an inch or more above them) as a centerline guide for setting the common trusses. Check the overhang of each truss against the side wall as well, to ensure consistency. Fasten the trusses to the top plates by using the steel brackets shown in the inset. Be sure to align the truss chords on your marks on the top plates. The trusses are placed 16 in. on center, measured from the far side of the back wall framing. Use a horizontal brace to fasten the trusses and maintain spacing near the top.
1x3
1/2" PLYWOOD LOFT FLOOR
ark the locations for the trusses onto each tie plate and double side beam. Start at the back wall on each side wall; place the rst mark at 15-1/4 in. and the rest every 16 in. all the way to the front. Get help to lift the trusses onto the top plates. Start with the gable trusses. Make sure the gable end trusses are positioned so the gussets face the inside of the structure. Nail temporary braces to the back wall and the front beams and posts to hold the gable end trusses in position as you fasten them to the tie plate. Use special steel anchors (Photo 18 inset) to connect the trusses to the walls. Make sure the trusses are centered over the outer walls. Once the gable end trusses are set, drive a 16d nail halfway into the top of each truss and tie a string tightly from one end to the other (Photo 18). Center each truss under the string and check the overhang distance from the wall on each side. Screw each truss chord to the tie plate (Photo 18 inset). Use a 1x3 board to support the trusses near the top and maintain the proper spacing there as well (Photo 19). Position this support 24 in. down from the top so it can be used as a purlin to later support the metal More CRAFTSMAN SHED
19
SLIDE two sheets of 1/2-in. plywood onto the 2x6 chords before you set the trusses over the front porch section of the shed (see Fig. B for details). Fasten them permanently with 8d nails to make the storage floor once the trusses are positioned. To complete the floor, youll need an additional partial sheet, which you can set in place later. Nail the plywood loft oor to the top of the chords with 8d common nails (see Fig. B, Detail 1, for exact spacing near the gable end windows).
46
Install the purlins and plywood

roong. Before you set the last four trusses, lift two sheets of plywood over the chords to use later for the ooring of the storage loft. Nail a 4-ft. cleat to the chord of each gable truss (Fig. B, Detail 1) to support the plywood oor on each end. The gable window frames will butt into the oor later as they are nailed to the opening of each gable truss (Fig. B). Nail the plywood to the chords and then crosscut a partial piece of plywood to complete the oor. Note: Nail an 8-ft. diagonal brace from each gable truss (Photo 20 and Fig. B) through the oor of the loft and into a block positioned between the truss chords. These braces are necessary to add rigidity to the roof. Nail the rest of the purlins to trusses. The purlins that extend past the gables must overlap at least two trusses because they, along with the brackets youll install later in Part 2, help support the y rafters. Dont trim the purlins to length yet. Leave them long until you measure the steel roong panels and see how theyll lay out. Nail the plywood sheathing to the walls to give rigidity and strength to the building. Nail 1/2-in. plywood to the exterior of the gable trusses as well. Once all the plywood is nailed off, remove the 2x4 braces from the inside walls. Now the framing phase is complete. In our next issue, well make window frames and doors and add trim, siding, roong and faux stonework to complete the project. More CRAFTSMAN SHED
NAIL the 1/2-in. plywood sheathing to the wood framing with 8d nails. Space the nails every 6 in. along the studs. Nail around the window opening and into the header as well.
1x3 PURLINS
DIAGONAL BRACE 1/2" PLYWOOD LOFT FLOOR
20
NAIL the purlins to the tops of the trusses with 8d nails (see Fig. C for correct placement). The purlins will support the metal roof that gets screwed in place later. Let the purlins overhang the gables by about 18 in. and trim them to exact length later.
PURLINS
DIAGONAL BRACE
21
1/2" PLYWOOD SHEATHING
48
Next issue: Roof and nish details

Materials List continued from p. 37
Hardware:
16d sinker nails 8d sinker nails 6d common nails (if hand-nailing gussets) 10d galv. casing nails PB44 Simpson post brackets A23 Simpson steel anchors Simpson Strong-Drive screws BC4 upper post-to-beam brackets Double 2x6 joist hangers No-mortise hinges for windows Lid supports (for upper windows) No. 4 rebar 10 lbs. 10 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 2 40 4 pkgs. 2 2 8 pair 2 pair 72 ft.
50
Par t1 In Part 1, we showed you how to
Craftsman storage shed

by David Radtke
Form and pour the slab
Build on the slab and stand up the walls
Make and install the trusses

www.familyhandyman.com
68
Do-it-yourself custom door and window trim and more! Heres how to make and install it.
In Part 2 we show you how to
p. 70 Build and set the windows
p. 74 Measure and nail the siding
p. 80 Install steel roof panels

More CRAFTSMAN SHED
69
Picking up where we left off
WINDOWS, FLY RAFTER AND EAVE BRACK VERSION 3F 5/14/01
n this second installment, well guide you through the process of transforming the plain framed box into a beautiful building thatll be the envy of the neighborhood. The details are found in our clear, easyto-follow photos and plan drawings. The roof is composed of factorynished durable steel panels that will go on in a fraction of the time it takes to install ordinary shingles. You just screw the panels to the roof framework and youre done. Order the length you need from your supplier (check with a home center to special-order it). If you buy off-the-shelf steel panels, you can cut them yourself with a metalcutting blade in your circular saw. The windows and doors we chose lend an authentic charm, but you could buy preassembled windows and doors for a slightly different
While we cant show a photo for look and shorten the labor time. every detail, we do illustrate all the Our quaint-looking windows are basic techniques youll need. The ordinary barn sashes that you technical drawings are complete hinge in a simple-to-construct and will help you analyze and cedar frame. The doors are solid112-1/2" follow each process. core birch exterior flush doors Last issue we left off with nailing (flat as a pancake) that you cut a 1x2 CLEAT the 1/2-in. plywood over the studs window opening into. Then you ON INSIDE 50-1/2" to complete102" the sheathing. Before glue and nail cedar strips to the you install the trim, windows and exterior for an authentic framesiding, staple 15-lb. felt paper over and-panel look. the sheathing (use either a handThe exterior walls are adorned squeeze type or a hammer tacker with cedar lap siding below and 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" stapler). The felt acts as a moisture cedar shingles on the gable. NOTCH barrier in case water gets behind the The trim boards for the corners, siding. Start at the bottom and stawindows and doors, along with 3/4" 1-1/2" ple it to the plywood every 12 in., the porch detailing, are pieces you and overlap each course 1-1/2 in. make from ordinary construction3/4" 2-1/2" grade cedar. You make all the trim NOTE: OUR SPECIAL-ORDER from 2x8s, 2x6s, 5/4 x 6 decking STEEL ROOF PANELS CAME LATE, (1-in. thick cedar boards with SO WE FORGED AHEAD WITH THE rounded edges) and 1x12 and TRIM AND SIDING TO SAVE TIME. FIG. D FLY RAFTER DETAIL 1x4 cedar.
1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH
3-1/4" x 5/4 CORNER BOARD
Make your own window frames and trim

aking windows like wider boards to make the window these is simpler than it stop. Nail the stop from the inside looks. Study Figs. A and C for the of the window frame so it butts construction details. Nail the against the windows when you corners of the jambs together close them. You can buy slidingwith 6d casing TRUSS HEADER 1" x 4" CASING nails. Screw the no-mortise hinges (see Buyers 3/4" Guide, p. 86) to NO-MORTISE x 1" the side jambs of HINGES STOP (TYP.) the window frames (top jamb for the LID gable end win24" SUPPORT dows). Then screw 43-1/4" the other ange of the hinge to the window sashes. 3/4" x 2" JAMBS 2x6 FASCIA 22" x 41-1/4" SASH Rip some 3/4 x 3/4-in. pieces from GABLE AGABLE WINDOW DETAIL FIG. A DETAIL WINDOW DETAIL
2-1/4" x 5/4 CORNER BOARD
SPEED SQUARE
1 S
15-LB. BUILDING PAPER
COVER the sheathing with 15-lb. building paper and fasten it with a hammer tacker before installing any trim. Then cut the corner boards to the dimensions shown in Fig. K and nail them in place with 8d galvanized casing nails.
70
Oops! Last issue (Part I) the common trusses were incorrectly labeled 24" O.C. Fig. B SHED ASSEMBLY

NO. 2 CEDAR SHINGLES
FIG. B
FINISH DETAILS
SCREWS AND RUBBER WASHERS 2x8 FLY RAFTER RIDGE
The correct spacing is 16" O.C.
STEEL ROOF PANEL
2x6 TRIM
FLY RAFTERS; SEE FIG. D
1x3 PURLIN; SCREW INTO PURLIN CLEAT 1/2" x 5-1/2" CEDAR LAP SIDING
NO. 2 CEDAR SHINGLES EAVE BRACKET; SEE FIG. F 1x4 BLOCKING ON GABLE RAFTERS BETWEEN PURLINS
REAR VIEW OF SHED
GABLE WINDOW; SEE FIG. A ROOFING, 102" LENGTH; SCREW TO PURLINS 1" x 4" GABLE TRIM
OVERLAP LAST SECTION TO FIT
2x6 TRIM
1/4" PLYWOOD CEILING SIDE BEAM; SEE FIG. E FRONT BEAM; SEE FIG. G CAPITAL; SEE FIG. H1 COLUMN; SEE FIG. H2 BASE; SEE FIG. H3
SIDE WINDOW; SEE FIG. C CORNER BOARDS CULTURED FIELDSTONE 1/2" THICK MORTAR BED EXPANDED METAL LATH (STUCCO LATH)
Building codes in some areas require additional seismic and high-wind anchors. Ask your local building inspector about local requirements.
DOOR / FRONT WALL; SEE FIG. K 1/2" PRESSURE-TREATED PLYWOOD 30-LB. BUILDING PAPER
1/2" x 5-1/2" CEDAR LAP SIDING (4-1/2" EXPOSURE)
More CRAFTSMAN SHED

71
2-1/2"
3/4" 1" x 4" TOP CASING 22" x 41-1/4" SASHES 3/4" x 5" JAMBS

FIG. D FLY RAFTER DETAIL
bolt window latches and two pairs of locking arm lid supports to hold open the gable end windows. Before you install the windows, rip the corner trim boards from 5/4 x 6 cedar decking (1-in. thick by 5-1/2 in. wide boards) to the dimensions in Fig. K and Photo 1. Note that one corner edge is wider and overlaps the other so the corner appears to be the same width from any angle. Nail the corner trim with 8d galvanized casing nails.
12
46"
3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)
43-1/4"
1" x 4" CASING
TRUSS HEADER
3/4" x 5" JAMB
NO-MORTISE HINGES 2' LEVEL
3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)
1" x 3-1/2" SIDE CASING
1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL
NO-MORTISE HINGES
FIG. C
SIDE WINDOW DETAIL FIG. C SIDE WINDOW DETAIL
LID SUPPORT
24" 43-1/4"
2x6 FASCIA
22" x 41-1/4" SASH
3/4" x 2" JAMBS
Window installation simplied

o make installing your window units easier, nail temporary blocks to the rough framing as shown in Photo 2. The blocks should be nailed across the corner so they trap the frame as you set it in place from the inside but still allow the window to open. Set the frame into the rough opening from the inside, push it against your blocks and check the sill for level. Shim as necessary. When the sill is level, check each side jamb of the frame for plumb (vertical). Shim and nail each side with 8d galvanized casing nails, then remove the temporary blocks. Cut the beveled sill piece as shown in Fig. C, and nail it to the frame and through the sheathing from the outside. Nail the side casings and the upper casing to the frame and sheathing as well. Repeat the process for the upper gable windows. More CRAFTSMAN SHED
DETAIL AGABLE WINDOW DETAIL

TEMPORARY BLOCKS
WINDOW FRAME; SEE FIG. C
NAIL temporary blocks on the outside corners as shown. Preassemble your window frames and sashes (Figs. A and C) and then slide the window frame against the blocks from inside the shed. Shim all sides as necessary and nail the jambs to the framing with 8d galvanized nails.
A few specialty tools make the job go smoothly

Along with the basic carpentry tools you used in Part 1, youll also need a portable table saw and power miter saw for cutting trim pieces. When we trimmed the gables and installed the steel roof panels, we made do without two sections of scaffolding with wheels. We regretted itthey would have been worth the extra $55 per week (our local rental cost for two 5-ft. sections with casters).
72
Build the door frame before installing the siding

he door frame is going to take more abuse than the window frames, so be sure to make it from 3/4-in. No. 2 pine instead of cedar. Examine Fig. K for the door construction details and special terms. With your door frame pieces (head jamb and side jambs) laid out on the oor, nail the side jambs to the
head jamb with 6d box nails. Tip the frame into the rough opening. The next step is to check the head jamb for level with the side jambs resting on the slab. Have a friend help you with this. If the head jamb isnt level, you may have to trim the length of one side jamb slightly to level it. Next, shim the side jambs as
shown in Photo 3, making sure the jambs are ush with the exterior plywood. Shim and nail the sides and top so theyre straight and solid. Drive a pair of nails every 2 ft. along the sides and top. Then nail the 5/4 casing (cut from 5/4 x 6 decking, which is approximately 1 in. thick) ush to the jambs and the framing.
HOMEMADE STRAIGHTEDGE
FLUSH CASING TO JAMB
3/4" x 5" JAMB SHIM TO STRAIGHTEN JAMB 5/4 x 4" CASING SHIMS SHINS
3
I
I
CUT and assemble the door frame (Fig. K), then tape a 4-ft. level to a straight 2x6 to straighten and plumb each side of the door frame. Shim as necessary and use 10d galvanized casing nails to secure the jambs to the framing.
CUT AND NAIL the 5/4 x 4-in. casing (ripped from cedar decking) to the jamb and the sheathing with 8d casing nails. The casing is set flush with the jamb because the hinges are surface-mounted.
Siding tips
ve never met anyone who actually enjoys putting on lap siding (Photo 5), but Ive met lots of people who love the job after its done. Here are a few tips to make the task a bit easier: Mark the level of each course using a story pole. A story pole is any long piece of wood that you premark to show siding course intervals. Set the story pole
Tip
Windows and doors commonly have a metal ashing called a drip cap above the top piece of trim, nailed to the sheathing and then covered by siding. You wont need to ash these areas on this shed because of the large overhangs.
even with the slab and transfer these marks onto the corner, window and door trim. This method of marking off levels will save time and the hassle of constant measuring. Use only splitless siding nails. These special ribbed nails, available at home centers and lumberyards, minimize splitting. Even
they can split your siding when nailed within 3 in. of the end. To avoid this, drill a pilot hole rst. Never nish a side with a skinny width of siding. Besides being fragile, narrow pieces tend to look out of place. When you get within
More CRAFTSMAN SHED
74
the last several courses, measure and adjust the row spacing as needed to avoid this problem. Minimize butt joints by avoiding short lengths of siding. Plan the lengths or try to specify what you need when you buy it. Most siding is now sold in random lengths. Separate the bundle into long and short lengths and plan ahead to minimize waste. Use the short pieces along windows and doors.
Caulk all the joints where the siding meets the trim. Use a cedar-colored siliconized acrylic caulk.
MARK the siding courses on the corner and window trim with a story pole (see 1/2" x 5-1/2" p.74). Nail the siding through the CEDAR LAP sheathing and into the studs SIDING with 8d siding nails after all the door and window trim is in place. Position each nail 3/4 in.WINDOWS, FLY RAFTER up from the bottom edge andVERSION 3F 5/14/01 leave a 4-1/2 in. exposure on each course.
STORY POLE
Tip
AND EAVE BRACKET
The beauty of the porch is in the details

ail the 1/4-in. cedar plywood to the truss chords to create a porch ceiling. Use 1-1/4 in. wood-toned panel nails for the best results. Next make the wood boxes 1x2 CLEAT that attach to the outside of the double 2x6 beam (Fig. E). These boxes ll ON INSIDE out the width of the beam (Photo 6) so the roof overhang is consistent with the rear section of the shed. Nail a 2x4 cleat to the 2x6 blocking you installed earlier between the trusses. Then nail the 1x8 trim (with the 3/4 x
112-1/2"
1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCH
102"
50-1/2"
EXTENDED BEAM
DOUBLE 2x6 SIDE BEAM (COVER WITH 1x8)
CEDAR PLYWOOD CEILING
DOUBLE 2x6 FRONT BEAM 3/4" x 6-1/2" WITH 3/4" x 3/4" CLEAT
1/4" CEDAR PLYWOOD
CUT 1/4-in. 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" cedar plyNOTCH wood to fit the ceiling of the FLY RAFTER DETAIL 3/4" front porch and BEAM SECTIONS AND COLUMN DETAILS 1-1/2" also to enclose the VERSION 3F 5/14/01 beams on each side. Note that 3/4" 2-1/2" the beams are 1" x widened to keep the extended rafter 2x6 BLOCKING tails consistent (TRIM TO FIT) TRUSS with the sides of FIG. D FLY RAFTER DETAIL the shed (see Figs. DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM 4" E and G). Trim out 2x4 CLEAT 1/4" PLYWOOD the joint between the ceiling and beams with 3/4 x 1-in. cedar ripped 3/4" 3/4" x 1" from wider boards. TRIM
FIG. D
1x8 TRIM (RIP TO 6-1/2")
3/4" x 3/4" CLEAT
3/4" x 6" TRIM 1/4" PLYWOOD
More SHED
76
FIG. E
FIG. E SIDE BEAM DETAIL
SIDE BEAM DETAIL

4" CASING TRUSS HEADER BEAM
1" x JULY / AUGUST 2001 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
6-1/2"
each side and nail it to the trusses efore installing our roof panbehind the brackets. Drill 5/16-in. els, we needed to build the pilot holes and secure the bracket overhang. Cut the y rafter (Figs. B with 3/8-in. x 4-1/2 in. lag screws. and D) to length and use a jigsaw to ETS cut the notches and decorative ends. Also, glue and nail a cleat 17" CUT 2x8 FLY (Fig. D) 3/4 in. down from the RAFTER (PURLIN OVERHANG + 2") FROM 4x4s top on each inner side. Trim the 1-3/4" purlins to take the best advantage 15-LB. BUILDING of the roong panel widths (see PAPER p. 80). We trimmed ours at 15 in. from the gable sheathing. To pre45 CHAMFER 15" vent the purlins from splitting as 20" PURLINS you screw them to the y rafter 1-3/4" x 1-3/4" NOTCHES cleats (Photo 7), predrill pilot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" and countersink holes 3/8 in. 5/4 x 4" CHAMFER from the end of each. GABLE TRIM Make the front and rear gable FIG. F EAVE BRACKET brackets (Fig. F) from clear cedar 4x4. Cut the FIG. F EAVE BRACKET angled pieces with a power miter saw NO. 2 CEDAR 1x2 NAILED TO or a handsaw. SHINGLES BACKSIDE OF FLY RAFTER Connect the top and back pieces of NAIL on the remaining trim and the bracket with EAVE then staple No. 2 cedar shingles to BRACKETS 3/4" x 5" 1/4 x 3-in. lag " x 4" TOP CASING 22" x 41-1/4" the gable ends with a pneumatic JAMBS SASHES screws. Use 8d stapler. Start at the bottom with a double BEAM SECTIONS AND COLUMN DETAILS layer of shingles to accent the taper on the galvanized casing bottom against the horizontal trim board. VERSION 3F 5/14/01 nails for each Shoot at least two staples per shingle. diagonal piece. Get a friend to 46" help you install WINDOW SASH 3/4" x 1" STOP 2x6 BLOCKING FLY the brackets (TRIM TO FIT) TRUSS RAFTER 1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR 3/4" x 2" JAMB (Photo 7). PURLINS 1/2" SHEATHING DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM To further 4" 43-1/4" 2x4 CLEAT 3/4" 2x6 TRUSS CHORD secure the brack2x4 CLEAT 1/4" PLYWOOD x 3/4" 3/4" x 3" CLEAT 2x6 TRIM ets, cut a 2x6 for STOP
3/4-in. cleat attached) to the 2x4 cleat you just nailed to the blocking. Remember, youre just widening the beam and putting 1/4-in. plywood under it as shown in Photo 6. Next, trim the inside of the porch ceiling where it intersects with the
Youll need help to set the brackets on the overhangs
12
(TYP.)
3/4" 3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM
2x8 TRIM (RIP TO 6-1/2") 3/4"
1/4" PLYWOOD 3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM
3/4" x 5" JAMB
TRIM the purlins to length forCLEAT an ideal roofing layout (see text) 1/4" PLYWOOD (RIP TO 6-1/2") then build the brackets to the dimensions shown in Fig. F. Screw FIG. E SIDE DETAIL the eave brackets to the BEAM gable sheathing with 3-in. screws from the backside of the sheathing after you slip them into the precut notches NO-MORTISE 1-1/2" x x 3-1/2" you cut in the SILL fly rafter. ScrewHINGES the purlins to the 1x2 cleat on the backside 1-1/2" DE CASING of the fly rafters before you install the brackets. The cleat is positioned 3/4 in. down from the top and follows the length of the fly rafter. BEAM 6-1/2" FIG. C SIDE WINDOW DETAIL
1x8 TRIM
3/4" x 3/4"
1/4" PLYWOOD
DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM
FIG. G FRONT BEAM DETAIL
FIG. G
FRONT BEAM DETAIL

3-1/2" (NARROW BOARD)
5" (WIDE BOARD) More CRAFTSMAN SHED
78
52-1/2" 3/4" x
Roong goes fast with precut panels

he 3-ft. wide roof panels are available at most home centers. Some home centers stock two or three basic colors. We chose a special-order green and also ordered it to the 102-in. length we needed to avoid having to cut it. To get the panels to t our shed
dimension from front to back, we had to half-lap the last panel. Half of the last panel covers half of the preceding panel. Also, to have a nished end on the long panel edge, we ipped it end for end. Have a screw gun ready to drive the special rubber-washered fasten-
ers into the purlins. Dont step on the roof panels or youll put a nasty crease in them. As you go, screw the panels off and install each 10-ft. long roof panel cap (Fig. B) to the roof panels. Set a ladder up on the gable side to reach, and get a screw in every 3 ft.
Tip
If you must cut this stuff, buy a Carborundum metal-cutting blade for your circular saw. Wear a face shield and hearing protection. Be sure the panels are well supported as you cut.
Tip
Before you cut your purlins to length to install the y rafters, just lay the roong panels out on your lawn and measure the coverage.
STEEL ROOFING PANELS 1/2" TREATED, PLYWOOD SHEATHING
18" x 18" x 26" COLUMN BASE
SCREW the steel roofing to the purlins (the horizontal wood strips) with special self-tapping screws with built-in rubber washers (Fig. B). Each roof panel is 102 in. long. Be sure to specify length when you order or youll need to cut them. Wear leather gloves when you handle this stuff. The edges are sharp! Begin installing the steel roof cap when youre at the halfway point.
10
FRAME AND SHEATHE the column bases using treated plates and plywood. Screw the plates into the slab with concrete screws. Staple 30-lb. felt to the entire base. Lay expanded wire mesh over the felt and plywood. Nail the mesh every 6 in. with 1-1/4 in. roofing nails.
Fasten the gable shingles with an air-powered stapler

ave one person up on the ladder setting and stapling shingles and the other on the ground cutting. Cut and tack 15-lb. felt over the plywood sheathing, then nail all the window and gable trim in place as shown in Fig. B.
To get all the shingles even across the bottom of each course, cut a 6-in. length off a scrap shingle and mark it gauge. Use this to measure each shingle exposure as you staple it in place. Drive at least two 1-1/8 in. long staples in each shingle so the next
80
course will hide your staples (Photo 8). Stagger the joints on each row of shingles to prevent leaks. The gable is a triangle; cut the angled pieces carefully on your miter saw or table saw. More CRAFTSMAN SHED
Craftsman Storage Shed BEAM SECTIONS AND COLUMN DETAILS VERSION 3F 5/14/01 S AND COLUMN DETAILS 5/14/01
MITERED 2x4 CAPITAL WINDOW SASH 3/4" x 1" STOP 2x6 BLOCKING TO FIT) (TRIM looks like real stone; see thatTRUSS the column bases as rame 1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR 3/4" x 2" JAMB WINDOW SASH 3/4" x 1" STOP Photo 13). See p. 38 in this issue shown in Part 1 and nail TRUSS 1/2" SHEATHING FLOOR 1/2" PLYWOOD 3/4" x 2" JAMB DOUBLE 2x6 information BEAM for more on 1/2-in. treated plywood to the 4" NOT 2x4 BORED CLEAT TRUSS CHORD 2x6 1/2" SHEATHING 1/4" PLYWOOD 2x4 CLEATinstalling cast stone. base 2x6 framing. DOUBLE BEAM Staple 30-lb. buildPRENAILED 3/4" x 3" CLEAT 2x6 TRIM 2x4 CLEAT SIDES 2x6 TRUSS CHORD Study Fig. H1 for construction to the plywood base PLYWOOD 1/4"paper 2x4 CLEAT ing TRIM 2x8 3/4" x 3" CLEAT 2x6 TRIM details for the upper columns and (use a squeeze-type or hammer (RIP TO 6-1/2") 3/4" 1/4" PLYWOOD 3/4" x 1" capitals. Miter the 2x8 cap pieces tacker with 1/4-in. staples). Next, 2x8 TRIM MITERED TRIM 3/4" (RIP TO 6-1/2") 3/4" 3/4" x 1" TRIM 2x8 BASE and nail them to the top 1/4" of the nail the3/4" expanded metal lath PLYWOOD x 1" TRIM 3/4" 3/4" x 6" TRIM plywood base. Use 10d galva(commonly referred to as stucco 3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM 3/4" x 3/4" nized nails. Next rip some 2x4s TRIM Metal mesh) to the 1x8 plywood. lath 1/4" PLYWOOD DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM 3/4" x 6" TRIM CLEAT 1/4" PLYWOOD (RIP TO 6-1/2") 3/4" x 6" TRIM to 3 in., then crosscut DOUBLE them into is available at home centers and is 1/4" PLYWOOD 3/4" x 3/4" FIG. G WIDER, FRONT BEAM DETAIL 2x6 BEAM OVERLAPPING FIG. E SIDE BEAM DETAIL CLEAT PLYWOOD 9-in. lengths and screw them a1/4" must for installing cultured TAPERED FIG. G FRONT BEAM DETAIL NARROWER BOARD AM DETAIL between the 4x4 post and the stone (lightweight, cast concrete TAPERED BOARD BOARD) 3-1/2" (NARROW 2x8 base cap. These cleats will 5" (WIDE BOARD) provide backing for the tapered 3-1/2" BEAM (NARROW BOARD) 6-1/2" 5" (WIDE BOARD) column boards. BEAM 6-1/2"
Tapered columns complement the Craftsman styling
NDOW SASH
3/4" x 1" STOP 1/2" PLYWOOD FLOOR
3/4" x 2-1/8" 2" SHEATHING TRIM 6 TRUSS CHORD NARROW 6 TRIM BOARD WIDE BOARD 3/4"
4" x 2" JAMB
2x4 CLEAT 2x4s MITERED 3/4" x 3" CLEAT
8 TRIM IP TO 6-1/2")
1/4" PLYWOOD 3/4" x 1" TRIM 3/4" x 6" TRIM 12" SQUARE
Now taper the 1x12s to the dimensions in Fig. H2 with your 3/4" x saw. Note that the taper circular 2-1/8" 52-1/2" is TRIM the same on all the pieces, 2x4s but one pair for each column is MITERED NARROW narrower by 1-1/2 in. Glue (use TAPERED BOARD SIDEthree sides Titebond II) and nail BOARDS ofWIDE the tapered column together BOARD before you set it in place. Position the assembly around the 4x4 post 12" SQUARE 9-3/4" (NARROW BOARD) (Photo 11 ) and then glue and nail
25" SQUARE
52-1/2"
11
FIG. 11-1/4" H1 CAPITAL DETAIL ( WIDE BOARD)
ASSEMBLE the base and capitals as shown in Figs. H1 H3, then fit each tapered section of the front TAPERED columns. Note that SIDE the front and backside boards of the columns are wider because BOARDS they overlap the side boards. Once the column pieces are nailed together, secure them to the mitered base and capital on each side with 8d casing nails. Add the 9-3/4" (NARROW BOARD) smaller trim around the BOARD) top and bottom 11-1/4" ( WIDE of the tapered columns to hide any gaps. FIG. H2 COLUMN DETAIL
1/4" PLYWOOD FIG. H1 CAPITAL DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM DETAIL
CAPITAL DETAIL FIG. G FRONT BEAM DETAIL

25" SQUARE
FIG. H1
FIG. H2 COLUMN DETAIL
3-1/2" (NARROW BOARD) 5" (WIDE BOARD)
WIDE BOARD
WIDE BOARD NARROW BOARD
NARROW BOARD C L 2x3 x 9" CLEAT 1/2" x 1/2" TRIM 3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM
52-1/2"
C L
2x8s MITERED 2x3 x 9" CLEAT
RED
2x8s MITERED
TAPERED SIDE BOARDS
1/2" x 1/2" TRIM 3/4" x 2-1/8" TRIM
9-3/4" (NARROW BOARD) 11-1/4" ( WIDE BOARD)
1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER
1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER
the last tapered board in place. Center the tapered assembly to the base and capital and nail it in place with 8d casing nails. Cut the small pieces of trim for the base around the top and bottom of the tapered sections (Figs. H1 and H3) and nail them in place with No. 4 or smaller nish nails. Caulk the joints around the base to keep out rain.
AIL
FIG. H2 COLUMN DETAIL
COLUMN DETAIL FIG. H2FIG. H3 BASE DETAIL
FIG. H3
FIG. H3 BASE DETAIL
BASE DETAIL
More CRAFTSMAN SHED

82
WIDE BOARD
Add cedar battens to door fronts for a paneled look

WINDOWS, FLY RAFTER AND EAVE BRACKETS the gaps are even around each door. If youve made your VERSION 3F 5/14/01
hink of these double doors as panels that you need to hang so
opening square and straight, youll have an easier task ahead of you. CUT
(PURLIN
Cut the opening in the door to match your window sash size, then FROM WINDOWS, FLY RAFTER AND EAVE BRACKETS 4x4s apply the wood to the front side of the door. Have a full-service VERSION 3F strips 5/14/01 lumberyard plane some cedar boards to 1/2 in. thick (you may have to pay a small fee). Rip them to width and cut them to length. Adding 1-3/4" the strips of wood over the x 1-3/4" NOTCH doors is as simple as 112-1/2" cutting them to the right size 1-3/4" CLEAT (Fig.1x2 K), applying beads of x 1-3/4" ON INSIDE NOTCH construction adhesive to 112-1/2" 50-1/2" the back of each102" strip, and 1x2 CLEAT then nailing each piece to ON INSIDE 50-1/2" the front side of the door. 102" The strips around the win3-1/2" dow overlap the opening x 3-1/2" NOTCH and act as stops for the front side. 3-1/2" Once the glue dries, set x 3-1/2" 1-1/2" NOTCH the window in from the backside and nail some FIG. J HEAD JAMB 3/4" 3/4" stop strips (Fig.1-1/2" J) to the
2-1/2" 3/4" 1" x 4" TOP CASING
CUT FROM 4x4s
45 CHAMFER
1-3/4" x 1-3/4" 45 NOTCHES CHAMFE 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" CHAMFER 1-3/4" NOTC
1-1/2" CHAM
FIG. F EAVE B
3/4"
FIG. F EA
2-1/2"
1" x 4" TOP CASING
22" x 4 SASH
12
3/4" x 3/4" STOP (TYP.)
12
3/4" x 3/4 STO (TYP
1" x 4" CASING
TRUSS HEADER
1" x 4" CASING
TRUSS HEADER
NO-MORTISE HINGES
3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)

3/4" x 1" STOP (TYP.)
1" x 3-1/2" SIDE CASING
1-1/2" x 1-1/2" SILL
NO-MORTISE LID HINGES 24" SUPPORT
FIG. C SIDE WIND 1-1/ 1" x 3-1/2" 1-1/ SIDE CASING
FIG. K
84 2x6 FASCIA
43-1/4" FRONT WALL / DOOR DETAILS

24"
FIG. C SIDE
LID SUPPORT
HANDYMAN JULY / AUGUST 2001 THE FAMILY 43-1/4"
22" x 41-1/4" SASH
3/4" x 2" JAMBS
1-3/4" FLUSH SOLID-CORE BIRCH DOOR
CEDAR BOARDS MILLED TO 1/2" THICKNESS
CUT the window opening in each door with a circular saw and finish the corners with a jigsaw. Make the opening just large enough for the window. Glue 1/2-in. thick cedar board to the front surface of a solidcore birch exterior door to create a panel effect for each door. Fit the doors in the opening by shimming them temporarily. Position the hinges and drill pilot holes for the lag screws.
12
sides of the window opening to hold the window in place. Trim the doors as necessary to t the opening. Allow about a 1/8-in. gap on the sides and top, and a 1/4-in. total gap in the middle and bottom. Remember, the door fronts are ush with the door trim. Drive shims between the slab and the bottom of the doors to help you center them in the opening. Drill the holes for your hinges and prop the doors in the opening. Drive lag screws into the hinges and door as shown and then add the latch hardware. We painted our hardware a deep tan color to make it blend better with the wood. More SHED
85
JULY / AUGUST 2001
Installing cultured stone is like setting thick tile
ix your mortar to the consistency of mashed potatoesnot the lumpy ones your Aunt Doris makes but your motherin-laws smoothest creation. Work on a shady day if you can. It seems like every manufacturer has its own how-to recommendations, but the idea is to push mortar into the stucco mesh until its about 1/2 in. thick (read the instructions supplied by the manufacturer). Work an area several inches beyond each stone you choose to set. Have several stones ready to select from. Keep a bucket of water handy and dunk the stone before you apply mortar to it. Butter the back of a corner stone rst (Photo 13) and push it into the mortar. Then grab the next stone and set it. Set all the lower corner pieces and then nd stones to ll in between. Work your way all around the base about halfway up, then start on the next column and repeat the process to give the lower stones
and direct the mortar between time to set and dry in place. If the stones. Once youve lled the gaps, stones start to fall away, you may go back and scrape away the excess need to prop them with sticks or with a striking tool. A masonry slow down and wait for the mortar brush is handy to clean away excess to rm up. Note: You may have mortar. Try not to get mortar some gaps if youre working with everywhere. Be as neat as you can round stones. Use the smaller ones with the mortar and avoid getting provided to ll the gaps. We even it on the face of the stones. Follow used a few real stones about 3 in. the manufacturers instructions. or so in diameter to help ll gaps. When you reach the top, you may have to do a little trimming with a hammer and chisel to get the stones to t. We had TWO-PIECE TRIM ON good luck and were able COLUMN BASE to t all but four. After the stones are all set, youll need to add mortar between them. Get a grout bag from your stone supplier. Mix the mortar a bit thinner than before and MORTAR BED scoop some into the bag. Squeeze the bag
Finishing details
Apply a deck sealer to the exterior of your shed or paint it if you like. We used an oil nish called Behr NWF Waterproong Wood Sealer that did not have a lm residue. Youll need to apply it again in about two years. Natural graying will occur eventually with exposure to the elements. You can always recapture the fresh-cut look of cedar later with a deck-and-siding cleaner. Enjoy!
CULTURED FIELDSTONE CULTURED DO-ITYOURSELFER
13
Buyers Guide
I Barn sashes are available by mail-order if you cant nd them locally. Call Lindsay Windows at (800) 967-2035 or (507) 625-4278. www.lindsaywindows.com I The no-mortise hinges we used for our windows are part No. 28720 from Rockler Hardware (800-279-4441 or www.rockler.com). For a copy of Part 1 of this article, see Reader Services, p. 116, or visit our Web site at www.familyhandyman.com. Part 1 has a materials list and step-by-step photos of the rough framing of the shed.
PUSH a 1/2-in. thick mortar bed into the wire mesh. Butter the back of the cultured fieldstone pieces as you fit them to each column base. Its best to start at the bottom and do only the lower half, then go to the next column base. After the lower half has dried and set, you can continue to set the stones for each upper half. Grout according to the manufacturers instructions.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER and BOB UNGAR Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations GENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
86
Cottage Storage
Shed
An easy-to-open overhead door puts all your stuff in easy reach
by David Radtke
44
S E P T E M B E R 2002 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
ho said backyard storage has to look bad to be good? Besides being easy on the eyes, this shed has lots of storage in a built-tolast and low-maintenance design. Its got all the room you need for heavy-duty lawn equipment, the familys bicycles, plus all the sporting and camping equipment you own. And the generous use of windows sheds plenty of light from the sides, front and through the upper dormer window.This shed is built to last. The spacious 10 x12-ft. foundation is concrete; the 2x4 walls are skinned with 1/2-in. plywood and followed by durable cement siding. The windows are vinyl clad, and both doors are factory primed. And the roof is sim-
Storage Shed
ple-to-apply asphalt shingles. All this storage space is easy to access through an 8-ft. wide overhead door that rolls up out of the way. We chose an expensive wood overhead door ($1,500 installed) with lots of style, but you can choose from a wide variety of less-expensive doors available at any garage door supplier. Creating a great-looking project is gonna take time. In fact, this shed will take an average DIYer about two weeks or more to build! The process, however, is straightforward. Our easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions will get you through any tough spots youll encounter, and the clear drawings will give you condence to tackle the hand-framed hip roof. You can also break up the project into manageable steps and pick up where you left off at a later date. First get the framing and roof done, and then you can nish the rest at your leisure. If youve built a deck before, you can tackle a job like this. Beyond basic carpentry tools like a circular saw, level, tape measure, drill and screw gun, youll need concrete nishing tools (rent them from a rental center), a masonry saw blade (or diamond blade), a portable table saw and some roof jacks to reach the upper courses of shingles. Two stepladdersone 8-ft. and one 10-ft. are necessary as well. An eye-catching project like this is naturally going to cost more than a simple shed kit available from home centers. Figure on spending about $400 for concrete and forms, $1,900 for building materials, another $800 for the windows and service door, plus the cost of your overhead door.
A concrete oor is more work, but it'll withstand heavy use

Our site sloped about 3 in. from left to right. If you have more slope than that, you may need to do some additional excavating and grading to keep water away. Its best to keep the framing several inches above the nished soil grade to prevent water and insect damage. Using a sod cutter, remove the turf from the foundation sitethis is a mustplus at least 6 in. around the perimeter to fasten the forms. (You can rent a manual model for $15 a day or a power type for $45.) Use 2x8s for the forms and drive stakes in about every 4 ft. and near every corner (Photo 1). Level one side rst and then level and square the other sides to it. The diagonal measurement across the forms should be equal if youve More SHED
45
Storage Shed
done your job right. Cut all the stakes even with the tops of the forms. We had hard-packed clay soil, so we dug about 3 in. deeper and replaced that soil with sand to help stabilize the slab. Note: If youve got soil that never seems to thoroughly dry, lay 6-mil plastic over the ground up to the forms before you pour your slab. If you follow our foundation plan youll need about 2-1/4 cu. yds. of concrete. Tell the ready-mix company youll be pouring a slab for a yard shed and theyll send the appropriate mix. Develop a plan early on to gure out how to get your concrete to the site from the street. We planned to do some landscaping near the site anyway, so we allowed a small concrete truck to drive into the yard. Beware: A large concrete truck can leave deep ruts and damage your yard and septic system. To avoid having to do additional landscaping, you may need to borrow an extra wheelbarrow and a strong teenager to help you get your concrete into your backyard. Be sure youve got at least two strong helpers when the concrete arrives. If it looks like rain that morning, reschedule the concrete delivery. Pick a nice 75-degree day or cooler (if possible) to pour the concrete. The slab will turn out better in cooler weather, and, you wont wear yourself out from heat exposure. Wear protective eyewear, gloves and boots. Concrete can burn with too much exposure. Rinse your skin with water immediately if you get splashed with it. Before you pour, lay No. 4 rebar (Photo 1 and Fig. A, p. 51) around the perimeter of the slab to reinforce the edges. Mark your anchorbolt locations (and set them out) on the forms so you wont forget to push them into the wet concrete. For more on pouring and nishing
46
TFH plus
For more information on pouring the concrete slab, visit www.familyhandyman.com.
2x8 FORMS
NO. 4 REBAR
6-MIL PLASTIC
concrete see Building a Concrete Pad, July/Aug. 96, p. 80, or Pour a Concrete Sidewalk, May 00 p. 96. Also visit our Web site at www.familyhandyman.com. Note: If concrete work is not your idea of fun, you can have a pro do the job for you, but expect to pay about $1,200.
Wall framing is fast...and fun

Snap chalk lines on the slab that correspond to the inside edges of each wall (3-1/2 in. from the outer edge of the slab). Youll appreciate the lines because theyll ensure accurate wall positioning, even if you have a slight belly in your slab or plates. Next, cut your sole (bottom) plates and your top plates from 10-ft. and 12-ft. 2x4s (use pressure-treated wood for the sole plates). Follow the steps in Photo 3 for drilling holes in the sole plate for the anchor bolts. Line up the top and bottom plates to mark stud locations, along with door and window header openings. Marking both plates (sole and top plate) at the same time will make layout mistakes less likely. Follow the dimensions in Fig. A for the wall measurements. Build the back wall rst (drive a pair of 16d sinkers through the plates into each stud). Then tip it up and brace it (Photo 4) while you frame the side walls. The spacing is measured from the center of each wall specically to ease rafter layout. Cut and nail (use 16d sinker More SHED
FORM the 10x12-ft. slab with 2x8 lumber. Taper the soil beneath the slab from 7 in. thick at the perimeter to about 4 in. thick at the center. Reinforce the outer 12 in. of the slab with two concentric courses of No. 4 rebar spaced about 6 in. apart. Pour the concrete and lift the rebar about 21/2 in. into the concrete, then screed it even with the forms.
BULL FLOAT
FINISH the slab with a bull float to get an even surface, then trowel the edges with an edger. Next, push the 6-in. anchor bolts into the fresh concrete.
Storage Shed
nails) the window header pieces together separately and drop them between the king studs (Photo 6). (Check your windows and doors for specic rough openings). Nail them to the king studs and the top plate. Next, nail the trimmer stud to the king stud and then install the sill and the cripple studs (Photo 4) below the sill. After youve framed the walls, tip them up into position, brace them, (Photo 5) then fasten the sole plates to the anchor bolts. Climb up your stepladder and hammer along the top plate above the stud locations. This is necessary because the studs can work loose from the plates while you're tipping them into position. Add angled braces to the walls (Photo 6) as you plumb the corners. The braces must be nailed from sole plate to top plate and into the studs. The braces will keep the walls straight and solid while you install the rafters and nail the sheathing to the studs. Use a 4-ft. level to check the walls for plumb. In a perfect world, all the wall corners would be perfect. In reality, you may have to settle for "pretty close."
1/2 ANCHOR BOLT
SNAPPED STRING LINE
CUT the sole plates to length, then measure and mark the bolt locations for each of the pressuretreated wall plates. Drill 1/2-in. holes at the locations. Make sure your concrete has cured at least two days before building on it.
The tie plates bond the tops of the walls

Cut tie plates from 2x4s and nail them (16d sinkers) to the More SHED
BACK WALL
BACK WALL
TRIMMER HEADER CRIPPLE STUDS
5
your 2x4 studs 88-1/2 in. and adjust your window and door rough openings according to your window size. Tip up and brace each wall.
FASTEN each pressure-treated sole plate to the
ASSEMBLE each wall as shown in Fig. A. Cut
slab with a washer and nut and then nail the corners of the walls together with 16d sinker nails. Next, tie the walls together by adding a 2x4 tie plate (Fig. A) at the top of the walls. Run the tie plates 3-1/2 in. long on the front of each side wall to overlap the large door header (Photo 6). Plumb and brace the inside of each wall with a 2x4s nailed diagonally.
48
Storage Shed
KING STUDS LVL MICROLAM DOOR HEADER
top plate near every stud location with two 16d nails. Next, rip your 91/2 in. wide LVL beams (we used Microlam beams) to 9 in. with a circular saw. This is necessary to keep the door's rough opening height at 84 in. Notch the ends of each beam to accommodate the side wall tie plates and install the LVL door header as shown in Photo 6. Finally, add the steel straps we show in Fig. A. Mark the rafter locations onto the tie plates and front header. Start the layout from the center of each wall and mark out to the corners so each rafter will be 16 in. on center (Fig. A).
RIP each of your LVL headers to 9 in. wide and make 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.
cutouts in each top corner to accept the tie plates from the side walls. Clamp a temporary 2x4 support on one side about 9-1/2 in. down from the top of the tie plate, set the first header section onto the support, and carefully walk the other side up the ladder and nail it to the end stud of the side wall. Make sure the top of the header is flush with the tie plates on the side walls. Next, nail the other side and repeat the process with the second LVL header. Glue the headers together with construction adhesive and then nail them every 16 in. with a pair of 16d sinkers. Nail the tie plates into the LVLs at the notches.
BRACES
Using full-size patterns simplies rafter cutting

To get your rafters to all t and sit evenly on the walls, they must be consistent. Mark the common rafters from a single pattern rafter and then use this same pattern to mark the jack rafters later. Cut the three common rafters to the dimensions in Fig. B, p. 53. Nail the two side common rafters to the center of the ridge board as shown in Photo 8 and Fig. A and carefully walk it up a ladder with a helper to hold the rafters into position. Fasten the rafters to the side walls and then toe-nail the back wall rafter into the ridge board. Now cut the hip rafters to the dimensions in Fig. B. Note that two of them have a left-hand bevel cut at the top and two have a right-hand bevel. To cut these, mark the angle with your speed square at the 10 on your hip/val gauge. Now set your circular saw to cut a 45-degree bevel. Follow the angle you marked More SHED
FRONT BRACE
HEADERSUPPORT WALL
the concrete anchors and then to the underside of each header. Check the front corners to make sure theyre still plumb and redo the braces as necessary.
BUILD the 2x4 header-support walls and fasten them to the slab with
50
Fig. A ART Framing TECH 1 FRAMING VERSION 3F 6/26/02

1/2" SHEATHING 2x6 RAFTER BLOCKING 2x4 CROSS TIE 1/2" PLY FILLERS 2x4 3-1/2" SIMPSON A23 ANGLE BRACKET 2x4 TIE PLATE 2x4 TOP PLATE 16" O.H. 1/2" SHEATHING 2x4 STUDS ( 88-1/2" TYP.) 3/8" OVERHANG ANCHOR BOLT 2x4 PRESSURE TREATED PLATE 9" NOTCH FOR 2x4 TOP PLATE 3-1/2" (DOUBLED LVL) DOUBLE 2x6
Storage Shed
RAFTERS TRIMMED AND INSTALLED AFTER ROOF SHEATHING 2x2 x 21-3/4" 40 APPROX. 12 46" 10 30-7/16"
8"
DOOR/WINDOW HEADER
2-5/16" 2-3/4" 2x4 RAFTER 2x4 x 27-1/2" 2x4 x 41" (TRIM BOTTOM TO FIT) 2x6 x 63-7/8" DORMER RIDGE 2x6 x 14" DORMER RIDGE HEADER 2x4 RAFTER 2x4 x 18-1/8" COLLAR TIE 2x4 x 26" TOP PLATE 2x4 x 21-1/2" CORNER STUD 2x6 x 42" RAFTER TAIL HEADER
1/2" SHEATHING 2x8 RIDGE
GARAGE DOOR HEADER
1/2" DIA. REBAR 3" 6" 12"
7" 3-1/2" CONCRETE SLAB
TYPICAL WALL SECTION

2x6 HIP RAFTER 2x6 JACK RAFTERS 2x6 COMMON RAFTER 2x4 CROSS TIE 1-1/2" x 6-1/2" x 14-1/2" BLOCK (TYP.)
1/2" SHEATHING
2x4 TRIMMER
CENTER WINDOW OPENING
2x4 CENTER FRAMING 51-1/2" SIMPSON LSTA 18 STEEL STRAPS 12"
26"
48-5/8" 33-3/8"
93" WALL HEIGHT (TYPICAL) 82" 34" STEEL STRAP
8' 7' 12"
2x4 TRIMMER
10' 12' 19-3/4"
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 2002
51
Storage Shed
COMMON RAFTERS
2x8 RIDGEBOARD
CUT the three 2x6 common rafters (one on each
long wall and the one on the back wall) and the center 2x8 ridge to the dimensions in Fig. A. Use a speed square (see "Speed Square Know-How, p. 53) to mark the angles at a 10/12 slope. Mark the rafter locations
on the tops of the tie plates, starting in the center and working out to the sides on 16-in. centers. Have a helper hold the rafters in place on the plates and screw the rafters to the tie plate using Simpson A23 angle braces and Simpson bracket screws.
HIP RAFTER HIP DUDE
CUT AND NAIL the 2x6 hip rafters to the sides of the center ridge and the backside common rafter (see detail Fig. A). Each hip should intersect with the top edge of the ridge. Use 10d common nails. Next, mark the locations for the jack rafters onto the hip rafters (see text at right).
with your speed square to cut a top angle. This cut is called a cheek cut. Next, mark the birds-mouth angle and the plumb cut at the bottom end of the rafter. Cut the birdsmouth and the tail cuts (Fig. B) with your saw set at 90 degrees. Drive three 10d common nails into each hip through the ridge and fasten the hips to the tie plates with a pair of A23 angle brackets. Cut and nail the dormer ridge header (Figs. A and C) in place at this time to stabilize the front hip rafters. The jack rafters that fasten to the sides of the hip rafters may look confusing at rst, but they are simply shortened common rafters with a 45-degree bevel cut that follows the 10/12 common mark. The birds-mouth, overhang length and the plumb cut are identical to the common rafter. To mark the locations where the jacks intersect the hips, hold your
52
Storage Shed
Fig. B Rafters
45 BEVEL 124-3/8" 98-1/4" 31 COMPOUND CUT
DOUBLE 2x6 JACKS 2x6 x 14" DORMER RIDGE HEADER 2x6 RAFTER TAIL HEADER 2x6 RIDGE 2x6 RAFTER TAIL (3 REQD.) COMMON
45 BEVEL
Fig. C Rafter Framing Details

*DIMENSIONS ARE JACK RAFTER LENGTHS 2x6 COMMON RAFTER 2x6 JACK RAFTERS 2x6 HIP RAFTER 30-13/16"* 51-11/16"* 72-1/2"* 93-5/16" *
COMPOUN CUT
45 BEVELS
16"
JAC RAF
HIP RAFTER
BIRD'SMOUTH 97-15/16
3-5/8"
16"
3-1/2" 12
C L 16"
STUDS AND RAFTERS 16" O.C. STARTING AT CENTER 2x6 COMMON RAFTER
2x8 x 25-1/2" RIDGE
42"
77-3/8" 40 40 APPROX.
10
77-11/16"* 56-7/8"*
COMMON RAFTER
3-5/8"
4" 4"
36-1/16"*
RIDGE
HIP
JACK
12 45 BEVEL CUT TO LENGTH FOR JACKS 10 40 APPROX.
RAFTER FRAMING DETAILS
Speed Square Know-how
HIP RAFTER
COMPOUND CUT
23-7/16" RAFTER TAIL (3)
AFTER
JACK RAFTER
42"
tape parallel to the ridge board and hook it over the center common rafter. Keep the tape parallel to the ridge (and square to the common rafter) to ensure accurate placement. Mark each 16-in. center on the hip as you slide the hook end of the tape down along the common rafter. Youll see that these will correspond with the marks you have on the tie plates. To cut the length accurately, measure from your marks on the hip and measure to the outer edge of the marks on the More SHED
This shed has a roof with a 10/12 slope. COMPOUND SPEED ANGLE SQUARE This means the roof will rise 10 in. when you measure 12 in. horizontally. 10/12 HIP Your speed square has a gauge to GAUGE help you accurately mark the cuts on the rafter for a 10/12 slope. In fact, youll ABOUT notice there are two gauges on your 31 square that have the same numbers but COMMON & JACK RAFTERS dont match up to similar degrees. The 10 mark on the common gauge is close to 40 degrees, while the other gauge (marked Hip/val) when lined up on the 10 mark reads closer to 31 10/12 degrees. How can this be? Well, the hip COMMON GAUGE rafters of this shed start on the edge of the wall just like the common rafters and even meet at the same height. But ABOUT 40 at closer inspection, youll notice that the hip rafter must travel considerably more distance horizontally than the 12 in. the common rafter must travel. In fact, the hip rafter needs to travel nearly 17 in. horizontally to rise 10 in. By the way, when marking a jack rafter, use the common rafter gauge because the jack rafter is a just-shortened version of the common rafter.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 2002
53
Storage Shed
GABLE RIDGE HEADER GABLE RIDGE BOARD
DOUBLE JACK RAFTERS
42 TAIL HEADER MICROLAM DOOR HEADER ADDITIONAL RAFTER TAILS
wall tie plate. Transfer these measurements to a piece of 2x6 and use your pattern to trace the birdsmouth and rafter tail (remember, the outer edge of the tie plate is the inside corner of the birds-mouth). Next mark the compound cut and the plumb cut at the overhang end. Follow this process for cutting all the jack rafters. Nail each rafter to the hip rafter (be careful not to deect the hip rafter as you drive the nail) with three 10d common nails.
10
NAIL the dormer gable ridge header (cut a 45-degree bevel on
each side) to the front hip rafters as shown. Cut two double jack rafters (without the tails) and nail them in place at the locations shown in Fig. C. These double jacks will support the dormer side walls and the small dormer roof. Screw the lower tail header to the inside edges of the double jacks with A-23 angle braces. Cut the rafter tails 23-7/16" long as shown in Fig. B (bottom illustration) to fit against this support and screw the tails to the tail header from the backside with 3-in. deck screws.
Dormer-building is meticulous, but it brings in a ood of light

If you want to eliminate the dormer, you can frame the front roof exactly More SHED
1/2 PLYWOOD SHEATHING CLEATS CUT HERE
11
SUPPORT the plywood temporarily with cleats screwed to rafter ends while you position and nail it to the rafter. Drive in 8d sinkers nailed every 6-in. Mark the edge of the plywood with a string line just short of center to the hip rafter. Set the depth of your
circular saw and the angle at about 15 degrees and cut along the line. Sheathe the walls in the same manner with 1/2 in. plywood once youve finished the roof. Hang the plywood 3/8 in. below the bottom plate to cover the seam at the slab. Remove the braces as you finish each wall.
54
TECH ART 3 FINISHING VERSION 3F 6/26/02
Fig. D Finishing
5/4 x 3-1/2" TRIM NAILING FLANGE
Storage Shed
5/4 x 1-7/8" TRIM COLLAR TIE 3/4" x 3-1/4" FRAME 2x2 5/4 x 3-1/2" TRIM 1/2" x 3/4" STOPS 21-3/4" WIDE x 27-1/2" HIGH SASH FRAME 10 20" x 25" SASH 14-1/2" 50 40 14-3/4" 1/2" CHAMFER (TYP.) 7 BRACKET 1-3/4" x 4-3/4" x 27-1/2" SILL NOTCH BOTH ENDS 3-1/2" CUT FROM 2x4s 12"
1/2" x 3/4" STOPS SASH SILL WINDOW FRAME
3/4" x 3-1/4" FRAME
1 HEAD/SIDE WINDOW JAMB NAILING FLANGE WINDOW FRAME 2x4 CENTER FRAMING VERTICAL STRIP OF SIDING 2 CENTER WINDOW JAMB 5/4 x 1 7/8" TRIM BRICK MOLD 3 HEAD/SIDE DOOR JAMB DOOR JAMB
5/4 x 5-1/2" TRIM 5/4 x 3-1/2" TRIM 4 DORMER CORNER SECTION 2x6 RAFTER TAIL HEADER LVL 2x4 x 96" TRIMMER 3/4" x 5-1/4" HEAD JAMB 5/4 x 3-1/2" TRIM RAFTER TAIL
3-1/4"
2x TRIM TO FIT
6 SASH SECTION 1/4" REVEAL 3x3 FLASHING STEP FLASHING
5 GARAGE DOOR HEAD JAMB
6 4
ASPHALT SHINGLES BUILDING PAPER METAL DRIP CAP
1 2
10
BUILDING PAPER 3/8" x 5" HARDIPLANK SIDING (4" EXPOSURE) 9
VINYL CLAD CASEMENT WINDOW 5/4 x 2" SILL TIPPED 10 FRAME TREATED 2x4 STRIP OF SIDING
32" SERVICE DOOR SILL SLAB TAPCON FASTENER CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE 5/4 x 2-3/16" CORNER BOARD (TYP.) 5/4 x 3-3/16" CORNER BOARD (TYP.)
7' x 8' OVERHEAD DOOR 2x4 x 93" TRIMMER 3/4" x 5-1/4" GARAGE DOOR JAMB 5/4 x 3-1/2" TRIM 10 SHED CORNER SECTION
8 WINDOW SILL
9 DOOR SILL
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 2002
55
Storage Shed
like the backside, but Im sure youll agree that the dormer is worth the extra effort. First, cut a pair of double jack rafters to support the side walls of the dormer. Measure 24 in. from the center of the header toward each corner. This is the location of the outer double jack on each side. Cut a pair of jacks for each side but cut them even with the face of the front header so they dont interrupt the spacing of the overhang tails. Next, cut the vertical 2x4 dormer gable corners that rest directly over the double jacks, and then cut the top plate and nail them both to the tops of the double jack rafters. Cut the gable face rafters as shown in Fig. A. Cut the 2x6 gable ridge 63 in. long and nail it to the gable header between the hip rafters and nail the rafters to the ridge. After you cut the 42-in. tail header (Photo 10) between the jacks, you can cut the three remaining rafter tails (use your old common rafter pattern). Fasten the header ush with the inside face of the LVL door header. Next, nail the rafter tails to the header and screw them in place from the backside as shown in Photo 10. Before you nish framing the dormer roof, cut the roof plywood for the main roof and nail it in place. The remainder of the dormer roof framing will rest on this plywood (Photo 12). Cut the dormer plywood and be sure to overhang it 12 in. on the front side. Cut two pairs of rafters identical to the gable face rafters. Nail one set over the gable-face rafters and then screw the next set to the end of the plywood to create the overhang. Now cut the 1/2-in. plywood sheathing for the dormer sides and front and secure it with 8d sinkers. More SHED
GABLE-FACE RAFTER 2x2 CLEAT UNDER PLYWOOD
DORMER GABLE CORNER STUD
12
NAIL a 2x2 cleat to the outer edge of the double jack rafters to support the roof plywood around the dormer. Once the plywood is on the front roof, cut the rest of the framing members for the dormer and nail them in place. See Fig. A for dimensions of the framing.
FLY RAFTER BRACKET NOTCH 12 PLYWOOD OVERHANG
ADD ADDITIONAL RAFTER HERE
13
RUN the dormer plywood 12 in. beyond each front side to extend the roof overhang. Next, screw the 2x4 fly rafter to the edge of the plywood. This overhang may seem flimsy now but it will get support from the brackets later.
56
Storage Shed
15-LB. ROOFING FELT ASPHALT SHINGLES
Sheathe the walls, then remove the braces

Your plywood sheathing should hang below your sole plate about 3/8 in. to give a good seal around the foundation. To ensure this around the whole perimeter, measure the distance from the bottom of the rafter to the bottom of the sole plate along each wall. Add 3/8 in. to this measurement and cut your plywood to this length. Start with a sheet of plywood in the middle of each wall and work your way out to the corners. Nail the plywood sheathing every 6 in. to the studs and plates. Be sure to nail the 18-in. steel straps (Fig. A) to the header and the support walls beneath. The extra support from these straps helps strengthen these narrow header support walls and keep them from racking in high winds. When sheathing the front wall, start at the corners with a full 4-ft. wide piece and then cut out the door opening. Nail the plywood every 4 in. along the support walls and into the header. When youve got all the wall sheathing installed, remove the braces.
150-LB. ROOFER
14
Item
CUT AND NAIL prefinished metal roof edging around the perime-
ter of the main roof and the gable roof. Staple 15-lb. roofing felt to the plywood roof deck. Start shingling with the first course of shingles upside down even with the metal drip edge. You must nail this row and the next seven rows into the rafters only to prevent the nails from showing through on the underside of the overhang.
Materials List
Qty. Item Qty.
FOUNDATION
2x8 x14 (forms) 2x8 x10 (forms) 2x4 bundle of stakes Concrete No. 4 rebar 12 long 2 2 2 2-1/4 yds 8
SIDING
5-1/4 cement siding (12-ft. lengths) 60
TRIM (CORNERS, WINDOWS AND DOORS, GABLES)

5/4x 6 x12 Miratec 8
RAFTERS
2x6 x 12 spf (spruce, pine or r) 2x6 x 10 spf 2x8 x 3 ridge (cut to t) 4 20 1
WINDOWS
2 x 4 windows (casement or double-hung, 20x25 plastic barn sash for gable window see Buyers Guide) 1x4 x10 gable window frame material 4
WALLS, BEAMS, AND PLATES

2x4 x 8 spf (or precut) 2x4 x 12 treated 2x6 x 14 spf (headers) 1-3/4 x 9-1/2 x 10 LVL beams 2x4 x 10 (plates) 2x4 x 12 (plates and braces) 55 3 2 2 2 9
DOORS
32 pre-hung wood exterior door (order 2 in. shorter) 8 x 7 wood overhead door 1x6 x 8 door jamb material pine shims 1 3 2 pkgs. 1
WALL AND ROOF SHEATHING

1/2-in. CDX plywood 20
HARDWARE
16d sinker nails 8d sinker nails 10d common nails 7d galv. common nails 10d galv. casing nails A23 Simpson steel angles 10 lbs. 5 lbs. 10 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 38 4 pkgs. 10 1 1 lb.
Order your windows and doors in advance

Several weeks before the project started, I ordered double-hung windows for each side of the shed. The windows were delayed, but to keep the project moving, we substituted casement windows that we More SHED
BRACKETS AND GABLE DORMER RAFTERS

2x4 x 8 spf 6
ROOFING
4-1/2 squares of shingles Rolls of 15 lb. felt Metal roof drip edge 1 roong nails 1/2 staples 2 6 10 lbs. 1 box
Simpson Strong-Drive screws Simpson 18-in. steel straps Door lockset and deadbolt 3 deck screws
58
Storage Shed
purchased right off the shelf. These stock windows t the rough openings with only one simple modication. We added a stud to the center of each opening. The substitute windows did not have divided lights like the double-hung windows, so we purchased window grids to give a similar look. Our windows cost nearly $200 each, so keep in mind that you can keep the costs down by looking for windows at an outlet center or by installing used windows. Oops! We found out the hard way that the service door would conict with the overhead door. We calculated the height of the overhead door and the track but forgot to include the large steel door brace on the overhead door. When the door was in the raised position, the corner of the service door hit the brace. To x the problem, we had to cut down the service door to t. You can order a shorter door or simply remove the threshold and cut the door and jamb down 2 in. Install building felt around the rough opening, then shim and nail your doors and windows, making sure theyre plumb and level. Also, follow your manufacturers suggestions.
SHORT PREHUNG DOOR CASEMENT WINDOW
BUILDING FELT UNDER WINDOWS
15
STAPLE 15-lb. roofing felt to the walls and install your windows and your prehung door. Order your door 2 in. shorter than standard to clear the brace hardware of the overhead front door. If you order a standard-size service door, relocate it toward the back of the shed to avoid this step.
ADD BLOCK HERE 1-1/2 x 6-1/2 BLOCK
Rip your trim to size with a table saw

Install 15-lb. felt over the sheathing and around the windows and doors. We used 1-in. thick Miratec trim (see Buyers Guide, p. 66) because its tough, durable and preprimed. Its a composite exterior berboard that is weather- and crack-resistant and holds paint very well. Rip a piece 2 in. wide for a windowsill More SHED
16
RIP 2x8 pieces to about 6-1/2 in. wide (cut yours to fit) and tap
them into the spaces between the rafter tails. These blocks will keep out the birds and bugs. Nail them to the top plate with 10d galvanized casing nails.
60
Storage Shed
below each pair of windows. Cut the head and side trim pieces for the windows and nail them in place with 10d galvanized casing nails. Rip the corner pieces from wider stock and install them as shown in Photo 17. Nail on the thinner piece for the corner rst, making sure its ush with the sheathing. Next, nail the wider piece and sand the sharp edges to complete the corners. Make your garage door jambs from 1x6 pine. Rip the pine to 5-1/4 in. and nail it around the doors rough opening (Fig. D, detail 5). Nail the jambs to the 2x4 framing. Next, cut 2x4s and nail them at against the framing and tight to the door jambs. This extra bit of framing around the door supports the garage door track hardware. To nish the opening, rip 3-1/2-in. trim pieces and nail them to the sheathing and the jambs, leaving a 1/4 in. reveal along the jambs.
3-1/2 DOOR TRIM SILL
2-3/16 CORNER TRIM PIECE
3-3/16 CORNER TRIM PIECE
17
CUT corner and window trim from 5/4 composite trim or cedar
(see Fig. D). We used Miratec because its durable, comes preprimed and has nice square edges. The 1-in. thickness is deep enough to cover the edges of the siding. Rip the 5-1/2 in. wide trim boards for each lower corner to 3-3/16 in. and use the remaining 2-3/16 in. piece for the other side of the corner.
Fiber cement siding and brackets complete the details

3-1/2 TRIM NAIL HERE
ANGLED SILL
1-7/8 TRIM APPLIED AROUND BRICK MOLDING STORY POLE DIAMOND MASONRY BLADE CEMENT SIDING
18
MARK the locations of your siding courses with a story pole to ensure accuracy and to save you the trouble of leveling each piece of siding. We used cement siding called Hardiplank. It cuts nicely with a diamond blade in your circular saw. If you have an old saw youre not attached to, use itthe abrasive dust from this stuff is hard on saw bearings.
To seal off the area between the rafters, rip and nail blocks between them as shown in Photo 16. Next, make a story pole (Photo18) out of some scrap wood and draw lines exactly 4 in. apart. Use this scrap for marking the corner boards and the window trim to ensure uniform courses around the shed. To use the story pole, just align the bottom edge of it with the bottom of the corner board trim, tack it next to the trim and transfer the marks. To get the bottom course of siding to bevel, rip a 5/16-in. piece of More SHED
62
Storage Shed
19
PLACE the siding to your marks and nail it though the sheath-
ing into your wall studs with 7d galvanized box nails. Pound the nails flush. Cement siding is nailed within the top 1 in. of each course (except for 10-in. or wider widths) so the next piece will hide the nails of the previous course. If a stud is not available within 6 in. of the piece, nail the end to your 1/2-in. plywood sheathing.
GABLE OVERHANG BRACKET
3 DECK SCREWS
BARN-SASH WINDOW
5-1/2 WIDE CORNER TRIM
20
64
MARK the location of the gable-overhang brackets so they fit tightly into the notches of the fly rafters. Screw the brackets into the corner trim and the fly rafters with 3-in. deck screws.
More SHED
Storage Shed
wood from a 3/4-in. thick board for each side. Nail these pieces about 1/4 in. from the bottom to bevel the rst course of siding. Cut the siding (Photo 18) so you leave a gap of about 1/8 in. at the corner boards to allow for expansion and contraction. When you get to the top course of the siding, youll have to rip it to width. You'll also need to install a backer piece similar to the piece at the bottom to prevent the top piece from having a pronounced lean along the top edge. Notch this top piece slightly to t around the rafters. Prime all bare spots (the siding comes preprimed from the factory) and then caulk any gaps along the trim with a urethane caulk. Finish the job with two coats of durable satin latex exterior paint. You can purchase and hang your own overhead door but Id recommend having the pros do it for you. Now that youre nished, you can plan the inside of your storage shed to accommodate all that stuff you cant wait to put in its place!
Buyer's Guide
Miratec can be purchased at most full-service lumberyards. Call (800) 255-0785 for more information. Our semi-custom garage door was made by Clopay. Go to www.clopay.com or call (800) 225-6729 to nd a dealer in your area. For information about the barn sash, call Recycled Products (800) 765-1489.

"Cement Siding," July/Aug. '02, p. 48. "Craftsman Yard Shed," June '01, p. 32. For more information on how to order back issues, copies of articles or the Five-Year Index, see p. 7.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations GENE THOMPSON Structural Plan Review ERIC BUNKERS, P.E. MATTSON/MACDONALD INC. Project Design DAVID RADTKE
66
SEPTEMBER 2002
SHED
Pack a lot of yard gear into this small shell, and do it with style
by Gary Wentz
storage
COMPACT
Sized for small spaces Easy-access tool locker in back
34
storage shed
you need a home for all your garden tools and supplies but have limited yard space, this small shed is a perfect storage solution. With its 6 x 6-ft. footprint and classic Georgian styling, it fits into tight spots and adds charm to any back yard. The front room (53 x 65 in.) provides plenty of space for shelves and even a small potting bench, while the double door on the back of the shed creates a spacious easy-access tool locker. For easy care, we chose low-maintenance siding and trim materials that hold paint and resist rot better than wood.
Iff
CEMENT PANEL
PEGBOARD WALL
FRONT WALL
3/4" PLYWOOD FLOOR
Tools, time and money

We engineered this shed for easy, modular construction; you can build the major parts in your driveway and assemble them on site. While this isnt a complex project, it does require basic building skills. Well show you how to assemble the frame, but we wont show you all the finish details like how to hang doors or shingle the roof. Youll need a drill, a circular saw, a miter saw and a router. Although not absolutely essential, a table saw will make the project go much easier and faster. We also recommend a compressor and an airpowered brad nailer for faster, better trim installation. Plan to spend two weekends building the shed and another day or two painting. The total materials bill for our shed was about $1,300. If you opt for a blank wall on the back of the shed rather than a double door and a tool locker, youll save about $200.
Frame the walls and floor following Figures A and B. Cover the floor with 3/4-in. plywood, the walls with cement panels and the divider wall with pegboard.
MAIN TRUSS
SPACER HALF TRUSS GUSSET
Cut the truss parts and assemble them with 1/2-in. plywood gussets and 1-1/4-in. screws. Screw 1/2-in. spacers to the bottom chord on the main truss.
Preconstruction planning
Call your city building department to find out whether you need a permit to build this 36-sq.-ft. shed. Also ask about any restrictions on where you can place the shed. If you plan to build near the edge of your lot, for example, you may have to hire a surveyor to locate your property lines. You can build this shed on a site that slopes as much as 6 in. over 6 ft. But if your site is steeper, consider building a low retaining wall to create a level site. To find some of the shed materialsespe-
cially the fiber cement panels and composite trim boardsyoull probably have to call local lumberyards or special-order through a home center. Special orders can take six weeks to arrive, so choose your materials long before you plan to build.
Frame the whole shed on your driveway

Framing the floor and walls is the fastest part of this project. Before you get started, select your prehung front door so you know the dimensions of the rough open36
ing needed in the front wall. We chose a 36-in. door that required a 38 x 82-1/2-in. rough opening. Your door may require slightly different dimensions. The big opening at the back of the shed will easily accept two 30-in.-wide prehung doors. Frame the 6 x 6-ft. floor from pressuretreated 2x6s as shown in Figure A . Whenever you fasten treated lumber, be sure to use nails or screws that are rated to withstand the corrosive chemicals in the lumber (check the fastener packaging). Use pressure-treated 2x4s for the bottom plates of the walls. Cut the plates to the
Figure A Shed
1-1/2" x 1-1/2" ANGLE BRACKET 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" ANGLE BRACKET 2x4 SOFFIT BACKER 2x4 SOFFIT BACKER
2x4 RUNG 2x4 RUNG 1/2" PLYWOOD ROOF SHEATHING 1/2" PLYWOOD ROOF SHEATHING ASPHALT SHINGLES ASPHALT SHINGLES
1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSET 1/2" PLYWOOD GUSSET
2x4 SOFFIT BACKER 2x4 SOFFIT BACKER 1/2" MDO PLYWOOD SOFFIT 1/2" MDO PLYWOOD SOFFIT 3/4" COVE 3/4" COVE 30" PREHUNG DOOR 30" PREHUNG DOOR
1x6 FASCIA 2x4 SPOKE 1x6 FASCIA 2x4 SPOKE 2" FASCIA RAIL
2" FASCIA RAIL
5-1/4" CROWN MOLDING 5-1/4" CROWN MOLDING 2x4 L HEADER 2x4 L HEADER 4" BAND 4" BAND ASTRAGAL ASTRAGAL
2x4 TIE PLATE 2x4 TIE PLATE 2x4 TOP PLATE 2x4 TOP PLATE 2x4 STUD 2x4 STUD
HEAD CASING HEAD CASING
1/4" PEGBOARD 1/4" PEGBOARD 2" BATTEN 2" BATTEN 4-7/8" CORNER BOARD 4-7/8" CORNER BOARD FIBER CEMENT PANEL FIBER CEMENT PANEL 2x4 TREATED BOTTOM PLATE 2x4 TREATED BOTTOM PLATE 3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD FLOOR 3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD FLOOR 2x6 TREATED SLEEPERS 2x6 TREATED SLEEPERS 3-1/2" SIDE CASING 3-1/2" SIDE CASING 36" PREHUNG DOOR 36" PREHUNG DOOR 1x6 CORNER BOARD 1x6 CORNER BOARD 3" 3" 10" 10"
Figure B Floor plan and wall layout 3-1/2" x 8'

6' 3-1/2" x 8' 6' 3" x 83" PLYWOOD TRIMMER 11-3/4" 3" x 83" PLYWOOD TRIMMER PEGBOARD 11-3/4" PEGBOARD 2' x 8' 2' x 8' 65" 65" 53" 53" 4' x 8' 4' x 8' ALL STUDS 94" LONG ALL STUDS 94" LONG 38" 38" 16-1/2" x 8' 16-1/2" x 8' 13-1/2" 13-1/2" 15-1/2" 15-1/2"
Figure C Main truss

4-1/2" 4-1/2" 7" 7" 7" 6' 7" 6' 24" 24"
2x6 TREATED JOIST 2x6 TREATED JOIST
5 1/2" 5 1/2" 12" 12"
20 MITER 20 MITER BOTTOM CHORD 12' 3" 3-1/2" x 6" SPACER BOTTOM CHORD 12' 3" 3-1/2" x 6" SPACER 20 MITERS 20 MITERS 76-7/8" 76-7/8"
78-1/4" 78-1/4"
Figure D Half truss

4-1/2" 4-1/2" 7" 7" 7" 7"
12" 12" 3-1/4" 3-1/4"
3" MIN. 3" MIN.
24" 24"
22-1/4" 22-1/4"
BOTTOM CHORD 72-1/4" BOTTOM CHORD 72-1/4"
12" 12" PLYWOOD GUSSETS

ALL 1/2" THICK.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN JUNE 20 06
37
storage shed
dimensions shown in Figure B. Then cut 20 wall studs to 94 in. and assemble the four walls. Also frame the small header wall (14 in. x 65 in.) that fits above the back doors. Before you sheathe the floor and wall frames, take corner-to-corner diagonal measurements to make sure each frame is square. Fasten 3/4-in. treated plywood to the floor frame with 1-5/8-in. screws. Also screw pegboard to the interior pegboard wall. Nail cement panels to the front and sidewalls (Photo 1). Position the cement panels flush with the bottom plate, not the top plate (the wall frames are 1 in. taller than the cement panels). The two sidewalls have identical framing, but be sure to attach the sheathing so the right and left sides mirror each other. The cement panels on the front wall overhang the framing by 3 in.
HUB GUSSET
MAIN TRUSS GUSSET
HALF TRUSS
Screw half trusses to the main truss and tie them together with 9 x 21-in. hub gussets and 2-1/2-in. screws. Trim the main truss to form a pyramid.
A complex roof made simple

A typical pyramid roof requires lots of compound angle cuts and endless trips up a ladder to test-fit all the tricky parts. Not this one. There are no compound angles or complex calculations at all. And ground-level construction means faster progress with less strain. Build the main truss and two half trusses first (Photo 2). Choose the straightest 2x4s you can find for these parts. Figures C and D show the dimensions and angles. Your angle cuts dont have to be perfect; the gussets will make the trusses plenty strong even if the parts dont fit tightly. Join the three trusses with two hub gussets (Photo 3) made from plywood left over from the floor. The rungs that fit between the trusses have 45-degree bevel cuts on both ends. You can tilt the shoe of your circular saw to cut bevels or use a miter saw. In order to create a square roof frame, all four lower rungs must be the same length. Cut them to 103-1/8 in., set them all in place to check the fit and then trim them all by the same amount until they fit identically between the trusses. With the lower rungs in place, insert the spokes (Photo 4). One end of each spoke has a double bevel cut; make a 45-degree bevel from one side, then flip the 2x4 over and cut from the other side. This forms a
32 "
UPPER RUNG LOWER RUNG SPOKE
32 "
Fasten the upper rungs between the trusses with 2-1/2-in. screws. Position the outer edge of the rungs flush with the tops of the trusses.
FLOOR
PEA GRAVEL SLEEPER
Dig two trenches 6 in. deep and fill them with pea gravel. Then level treated 2x6 sleepers over the gravel and set the floor on the sleepers.
38
storage shed
90-degree point that fits into the corner where the main truss and half truss meet. To complete the roof frame, install the upper rungs (Photo 4).
Assemble the shed on site

The shed floor rests on a simple foundation: 2x6 pressure-treated sleepers laid on a bed of pea gravel. Dig two parallel trenches about 10 in. wide, 6 in. deep and centered 6 ft. apart. The trenches can run parallel to the sidewalls or the front and back walls of the shed. Fill the trenches with pea gravel. Lay the 6-ft.-long sleepers on the gravel. Using a level, determine which sleeper is higher (Photo 5). Level the higher sleeper along its length by adding or removing small amounts of gravel. Then add a little gravel under the other sleeper to make it level with the first. On a sloped site, one end of a sleeper may sit below grade while the other rests above the surrounding soil. You can also screw extra layers of 2x6 over the sleepers to compensate for a sloped site. We added two extra layers to both of our sleepers. That raised the shed and allowed us to slope the surrounding soil away from the shed. Set the floor on the sleepers so that the joists span the space between the sleepers. At each corner, drive a 3-in. screw at an angle through the floor frame into the sleepers.
Anchor the walls to the floor with 3-in. screws. Start with a sidewall, then add the front wall, followed by the pegboard wall and the other sidewall.
PLYWOOD TRIMMER REAR HEADER TIE PLATE
Set the rear header on 1/2-in. plywood trimmers and screw it into place from inside. Nail on overlapping tie plates to lock the walls together.
8
JUST DROPPED IN FROM KRYPTON
SOFFIT BACKERS
Screw 16-ft. 2x4s to the shed to form a ramp. Position your stepladders before you slide the roof frame up the ramp and onto the shed. Center the roof frame and fasten the trusses at each corner with a pair of angle brackets. Install 2x4s to provide nailing backers for the soffit.
40
storage shed Stand the walls and set the roof

Youll need a helper to carry and stand up the walls. Set one of the sidewalls in place SUPPORT BLOCK and screw it to the floor every 2 ft. Position the bottom plate (not the cement sheathing) flush with the outer edge of the floor. Use a level to make sure the rear end of the wall is plumb and brace it with a 2x4 (Photo 6). Position the front wall and screw it to the floor. Then drive Sheathe the roof with 1/2-in. plywood. Cut each piece 3 in. extra long, nail it in 1-5/8-in. screws through the overhanging place and cut off the excess. Temporary support blocks help position the plyfront sheathing to tie the front and sidewood as you nail it. walls together. Add the pegboard wall next, followed by the other sidewall and 2"-WIDE FASCIA RAIL finally the rear header wall. Make sure all Figure E METAL DRIP EDGE the walls are plumb, and nail tie plates Fascia and crown details over the walls (Photo 7). 1/2" CDX PLYWOOD TIE PLATE SOFFIT BACKER To safely set the 160-lb. roof frame into place, youll need two helpers, two stepladders and a ramp made from a pair of 16-ft.-long 2x4s. Secure each 2x4 with three 3-in. screws and brace them near the 2-1/2" 15"-WIDE MDO SOFFIT middle with a horizontal 2x4. Then sim3/4" COVE MOLDING ply slide the roof frame up the ramp and TOP PLATE 5-1/4"-WIDE CROWN MOLDING onto the shed (Photo 8). Center the roof 5-1/2"-WIDE FASCIA frame so that all four lower rungs are the 4"-WIDE BAND 3/8" COVE 94" STUD same distance (16-1/2 in.) from and par1/4" ROUND-OVERS allel to the walls. Fasten the roof frame 1"-WIDE ASTRAGAL with metal angle brackets and install sof-
Low-maintenance cement panels

Fiber cement siding is basically cement reinforced with cellulose fibers. We chose it because its durable, affordable and rot-proof, but especially because it holds paint longer than most other exterior materials. Exactly how much longer depends on a variety of factors, but builders have told us of cases where paint on fiber cement lasted twice as long as paint on nearby wood. Fiber cement is most common in a plank form thats used for lap siding. But its also available in 4 x 8-ft. sheets (3/16 in. thick) with textured or smooth surfaces (we used the smooth). Some home centers and lumberyards stock the sheet material; others have to special-order it (about $30 per sheet). Working with fiber cement is a lot like using other sheet materials. Pick up a brochure where you buy the panels or go to the manufacturers Web site for specific instructions. You have to leave 1/8-in. spaces between sheets, for example. When nailing, place nails at least 3/8 in. from edges and 2 in. from corners. Although pros use special blades to cut fiber cement, you can cut it with a standard carbide circular saw blade. Cutting whips up a thick cloud of nasty dust, so a dust mask is mandatory. Two suppliers of fiber cement siding are www.james-hardie.com and www.certainteed.com.
42
storage shed
Figure F Corner boards
3/8" ROUND-OVERS 3/8" ROUND-OVERS 2" 2"
CORNER BOARD
fit backers (Photo 8) before you sheathe the roof with 1/2-in. plywood (Photo 9).
Elegant trim from plain boards

Most of the trim on our shed is made from a composite material that stands up to Mother Nature better than wood (see Editors Note, p. 46). We used pine wood moldings only where theyre sheltered from sun and rain. The composite boards we used are 5/8 in. thick and come in the same widths as standard wood boards. In a few cases we used these boards as is. But we dressed up most of the trim parts with a router. The router work adds only a couple of hours to the project and creates a much more elegant look. Youll need three router bits to shape the trim boards: a 1/4-in. round-over, a 3/8-in. round-over and a 3/8-in. cove bit. Figures E and F provide the specifics. Here are some other details: I Install the fascia and fascia rails first (Figure E). Then shingle the roof. We used asphalt shingles. Be sure to install metal drip edge over the fascia. I Composite trim must be butted at corners, not mitered, since miter joints often open over time. I For soffit material, we used 1/2-in. MDO (medium density overlay), which is plywood with a tough resin coating. MDO is available at some home centers and lumberyards ($45 per 4 x 8-ft. sheet). You could also use plywood or fiber cement soffit board. I For the crown molding under the soffits, we used a large (5-1/4-in.) cove profile (Figure E). To get molding that wide, you may have to visit a lumberyard or special-order from a home center. I Corner boards hide nail heads and the edges of the cement panels (Photo 10). To hide the cement panel joints and other nails, nail and glue two 2-in.-wide battens over the studs on each sidewall.
12" 12"
4-7/8" 4-7/8"
5-1/2" 5-1/2"
10
Nail and glue the corner boards in place. Install the narrower side first, making sure its flush with the corner. Then add the full-width piece.
Figure G Door trim

3/8" COVE 3/8" COVE 3/8" ROUND-OVER 1-3/4" x 44-3/4" 3/8" ROUND-OVER 1-3/4" x 44-3/4" 3/8" COVE 3/8" COVE 1-1/4" x 43-3/4" 1/4" ROUND-OVER 1-1/4" x 43-3/4" 1/4" FRIEZE 5-1/2" x ROUND-OVER 42-1/2" FRIEZE 5-1/2" x 42-1/2" 1/4" DOORJAMB REVEAL 1/4" DOORJAMB REVEAL 3/8" ROUND-OVER 3/8" ROUND-OVER SIDE CASING SIDE 3-1/2"CASING x 81" 3-1/2" x 81" 2-3/8" x 46" 2-3/8" x 46"
1" x 43-3/4" 1" x 43-3/4"
(The lengths of your trim components may differ)

FRIEZE
5-1/4" CROWN
11
Doors and casing

We chose a classic six-panel door for the front of our shed and trimmed it with elaborate casing. To make the side casings, just rip your trim material to 3-1/2 in.
Nail and glue the moldings to the frieze board one at a time. Then fasten the head casing above the door with construction adhesive and brad nails.
44
storage shed Editors Note: Hooked on composite trim

One day a few years ago, my local lumberyard did me a huge favor: It ran out of the redwood boards I had always used for trim. The only alternative was a composite made from wood fiber and resin. Sawdust mixed with glue sounded like a recipe for problems, but I gave it a try and havent used wood trim boards since. Composite trim looks better after its installed and keeps its good looks longer than wood. Every board is straight and free of imperfections like knots or splits. It doesnt chip or splinter when you cut or rout it. It holds paint longer than wood and resists rot better than most rot-resistant woods. As a bonus, composite costs less than goodquality wood boards (about $13 for a 16-ft. 1x6). Composites arent perfect; theyre heavy and floppy, so theyre more difficult to install solo. Cutting or routing churns up a thick, powdery dust cloud, so I always wear a dust mask and do my cutting outdoors. The material is harder than wood and difficult to nail by hand. Manufacturers recommend using a framing nailer or predrilling and hand nailing. Predrilling is slow and framing nails leave big, ugly nail heads to cover up. So I use a brad nailer along with plenty of exterior-grade construction adhesive. Brads alone dont have enough holding power, but they hold the trim in place until the adhesive sets. Composite trim is available at lumberyards and some home centers. The composite we chose for this shed is PrimeTrim (www.gp.com/build). Another widely available product is MiraTec (www.cmicompany.com).
wide and rout both edges with a roundover bit. Install the side casings so they project 1/4 in. above the doorjamb opening. Your side casings may be slightly longer or shorter than the length listed in Figure G. Photo 11 shows how to assemble the head casing that fits over the side casings. The five parts that make up the head casing may also be longer or shorter than the lengths listed in Figure G. To determine the correct lengths, measure across the side casings from the outer edge on one to the outer edge of the other. For ours, that measurement was 42-1/2 in. If your measurement is more or less, just add or subtract from the length measurements given in Figure G. For the tool locker on the back of the shed, we bought two simple prehung 30-in. steel doors: a left-hand swing and a right (about $100 each). We pulled the factory-installed trim off the doors and screwed the jambs together to form a double door. To stiffen the assembly, we screwed a 4-in.-wide strip of 1/2-in. plywood across the top of the jambs. Then we installed our double door backward, so it swings out rather than inward (see p. 35). The corner boards on the back side of the shed act as the door casing, so you
cant install them until the doors are in place. Dont round over the edges of these back corner boards. To complete the backdoor casing, install a composite 1x6 above the doors.
Materials List
ITEM 2x6 x 12' treated 2x4 x 8' (2 treated, 28 untreated) 2x4 x 10' 2x4 x 12' 2x4 x 14' 2x4 x 16' 3/4" treated plywood 1/2" CDX plywood MDO plywood 1x6 x 16' composite trim 4 x 8' fiber cement panels 10' metal drip edge 30" doors 36" door Doorknobs 1 square of shingles 30' of ridge shingles Construction adhesive Acrylic caulk L-brackets 3" exterior screws 2-1/2" exterior screws 1-5/8" exterior screws 1-1/4" exterior screws 8d galvanized nails 16d galvanized nails 1" roofing nails 1-1/4" brads 1-3/4" brads Pea gravel (50-lb. bags) 10 4 tubes 2 tubes 8 1 lb. 1 lb. 1 lb. 1 lb. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. 5 lbs. QTY. 4 30 6 4 1 2 2 5 2 14 5 4 2 1 3
Primer and caulk for a lasting paint job

Prime the wood and fiber cement with high-quality acrylic primer. The composite trim is factory-primed, but youll have to prime any exposed cut ends and all the routed profiles. Be sure to prime the bottom ends of the corner boards and battens so they dont absorb moisture. The primer will raise wood fibers in the exposed composite, leaving a rough surface. Remove these whiskers by lightly sanding with 100-grit sandpaper. Careful, thorough caulking is essential for a lasting paint job because it prevents moisture from penetrating the cement panels and trim. Fill all the nail holes and seal any gaps between and along the trim parts with acrylic caulk. Also caulk the two short cement panel joints above the door. After the caulk cures, apply two coats of high-quality acrylic paint.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art FRANK ROHRBACH III
The 22-in.-tall copper roof finial is available at www.weathervanesofmaine.com, (207) 5480050. Item No. 702, $125 plus shipping.
46
Wood &
Combine veneer stone with a simple deck to create a striking, durable outdoor living room by Jeff Timm
his small deck comes with big, eye-catching features that make it seem twice the size. We combined traditional decking with a natural-looking stone wall to limit foot trafc and get full use of the space for relaxation. The stone wall is set at a perfect bench height, so you have plenty of built-in seating. In addition, the manufactured stone veneer has the massive look of a solid stone wall but is much lighter and easier to build with. The wall looks great, needs almost no maintenance and will last for decades. Well show you a foolproof way to lay out and construct this ground-level deck, and simple steps for preparing and installing manufactured stone walls. This deck project is great for both intermediate and advanced do-ityourselfers, since it requires only basic skills with hand and power tools. But you will need help lifting the heavy wall caps into place. Allow three or four full weekends for you and a helper to complete it.
Our deck has two platforms that connect to doors on different levels and provide for a gradual transition down to the yard. The main deck is about 14 ft. square and the second is slightly more than 8 x 9 ft. The materials for the platforms cost about $1,600, or $6 per square foot. To add that grand look of stone, expect to spend $2,000 more. This translates to $59 per linear foot of stone wall. Youll need basic carpentry, concrete and masonry tools to build this project. You probably have the carpentry tools: circular saw, drill, hammer and level. The concrete and masonry tools (Photos 10 19) are relatively inexpensive. You could buy most of them for under $50 total, or borrow them from a friend or neighbor. The one somewhat expensive tool youll need is a 4-in. grinder ($75) for cutting the stone (Photo 17). But you could accomplish the task using a 7-1/4 in. diamond blade with your circular saw. Finally, round up a posthole digger, a shovel and a wheelbarrow.
More WOOD & STONE DECK

38
stone deck
FOOLPROOF FRAMING AND FOOTING TECHNIQUE P. 42
COMPLETE STEPBY-STEP STONE HOW-TO P. 48
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2001
39
Wood & stone deck

2x6 LEDGER 2x6 JOISTS 16" O.C. 2x6 CEDAR DECKING 1-1/4" OVERHANG 2x6 CEDAR RISER 2x10 LEDGER 2x6 CEDAR DECKING 6" (FROM HOUSE)
5-1/2" 2x8 CEDAR TREAD 2x6 BLOCKING 2x10 JOISTS 12" O.C. 2x10 P.T. BLOCKING 7
2x8 CEDAR TREAD
8 3
2x10 RIM JOIST
1-1/4" OVERHANG 4 6"
2x6 CEDAR RISER
DOUBLE 2x6 BEAM 12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING 9 0" 5-1/2"
6 (END OF 2x6 WALL)
14
2x6 P.T. WALL PLATES AND STUDS 1/2" P.T. PLYWOOD
DOUBLE 2x10 BEAM
12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING
1" SPACE
7 14
CONCRETE CAPS
FIG. A
DECK FRAME DIMENSIONS AND MATERIALS CONCRETE CAPS 38-1/2"
(2 CAPS) (4 CAPS)
NOTE: All32-3/8" framing lumber and plywood is pressure treated (4 CAPS) (P.T.) 44-3/8"
Planning and buying tips

3/8" (TYPICAL) 16" 2x6 WALL
Draw out your plan in detail (or modify ours) and make a list of your lumber and other materials. Then shop at a full-service lumberyard and plan to have it all delivered. This will allow you to concentrate on building the deck rather than running to get the next load of materials. The framing is .40 pressuretreated wood and the decking is cedar. Manufactured stone comes in a variety of colors and styles, ranging from random eldstone to rectangular-cut slate. The stone we selected (Country Ledge Mississippi by Boulder Creek Co.) has the look of weathered limestone. The stone is actually lightweight concrete poured in molds cast from real rocks. Its durable even in harsh climates and made to last for more than 30 years. Buy it from brick and stone suppliers. Look in the Yellow Pages
under Stone or see the Buyers Guide on p. 54 for manufacturers that can direct you to a retailer in your area. Buy your mortar from your stone supplier as well. Itll carry the stuff the pros use. These mortars tend to be more workable than varieties found at home centers and will give you consistent results. Before you have any materials delivered, submit your plans to the local building department. The stone wall adds considerable weight, so if your plan varies from ours, hire an architect or structural engineer to calculate footing locations and sizes. (Itll cost about $150.) The inspector will check the strength of SECTION VIEW AT the framing and issue a permit. Its not uncommon FRONT RIGHT CORNER for an inspector to make minor changes in a plan, so be prepared to adjust your lumber order if need be.
40
CHALK LINE 2" BELOW SIDING LEDGER BOARD
4' LEVEL
Story Number PRY OFFStory the exterior siding. (Cut it to fit later.) Then Name Deck cut the 2x10 ledger board to length and align it with a Issue level chalk line about 3 in. below the door sill. Tack it in Editor Jeff Tim place with 16dArt galvanized box nails. Director Hope Faye Tech Art Version 3F 5/10/01
HOUSE BUILDING FELT HOUSE SHEATHING DECK FLASHING 2x10 UPPER LEDGER 2x6 LOWER LEDGER
SIDING DECKING
Set the ledger to get things started
The rst step in constructing our CONCRETE deck was to cut the siding away CAP JOIST 3/8" 7" LEDGER from the house and fasten the DETAIL ledger board (Photo 1). Cutting 3/8" 16d URETHANE DIA. JOIST GALV. into your house might make you a CAULK HOLE HANGER NAIL little nervous. But if you follow our NAIL JOIST HANGERS tips and measure carefully, you 1/2" x 4" LAG SCREW AND WASHER MORTAR wont ruin anything. Position the top of the deck about LEDGER DETAIL 1-1/2 in. below the threshold to CAP JOINT DETAIL keep snow and water out of the house. Snap a level line on your siding 1/2 in. above that height for siding clearance. Then measure and . GAUGE AX DECK BLOCK mark the ends of the ledger accord"M FLASHING 16 ing to your plan. If your siding is 3/8" REBAR; wood, set your circular saw to the KEEP 1" (MIN.) depth of the siding and cut the top FROM FORM and sides. Then pry the siding off. If you have vinyl or aluminum siding, you may be able to cut it off with JOIST HANGER several strokes of a utility knife, or use a circular saw with a plywood blade. Another alternative is to simSPECIAL ply remove a section of siding (as END JOIST 2x4 FORM SIDES HANGER we did), cut it and replace it later, 1/2" x 4" LAG 1-5/8" DRYWALL SCREW; SCREWS WITH TOE-SCREW TO PLYWOOD replacing the bottom and side WASHERS 3" DRYWALL SCREW 3/4" BIRCH channels as needed. PLYWOOD If you have brick, stucco or block MARK the joist positions according to your plan. Then predrill walls, you can skip this step and 3/8-in. holes for the 1/2-in. lag screws. Lag-screw the ledger board to CONCRETE CAP MOLD hang the ledger board directly the house, using two screws between each joist. Slip the deck flash14" ing in place. Align each joist hanger with a joist scrap, and fasten one side 14" masonry. against the face of the with 16d galvanized nails. Purchase special joist hangers for the ends that Select straight 2x10s for the have the flanges turned in. ledger and outer beam. Cut them to More WOOD & STONE DECK
FIG. B
1/2" PLYWOOD 2x2 x 6"
1-5/8" DRYWALL THE FAMILY SCREWS
HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2001
41
Wood & stone deck

DIAG ONA LS
SHIFT UNTIL DIAGONALS ARE EQUAL
CUT and temporarily tack the outer frame of the deck together with 16d galvanized nails. Level the frame, using blocking to support it. Next, square the frame by shifting the outer edge side to side until the diagonal measurements are equal.
RIM JOIST FOOTING 1ST MEMBER OF BEAM FOOTING TEMPORARY BLOCKINGS MARKING PAINT FOOTING LOCATION
MARK your footing locations, using the deck frame to accurately position them. Paint a cross with spray paint. Extend the cross beyond the diameter of the footing so you can easily keep the hole aligned as you dig. Disassemble the frame and dig your footings.
POST HOLE DIGGER
length, then lay them side by side and, following the plan, mark the joist locations using a tape measure and square (Fig. A).
TIP: Place an X on the side of the line where the joist will sit.
CAUTION: CALL YOUR UTILITY COMPANIES AND HAVE THE UTILITY LINES MARKED BEFORE YOU DIG THE HOLES.
Lag-screw the ledger board to the house rim joist (Photos 1 and 2). Check local codes if youre fastening into concrete or brick. See Ask Handyman, June 00, p. 6, for products and tips for making this connection. (To order a copy, see p. 116.) Be sure to slip a piece of deck ashing, available in 10-ft. lengths from your lumberyard, on top of the ledger board and under the siding. (Some pros like to slip it under the building felt as well.) You may have to pull or cut a few nails to slip the ashing in place. Overlap additional lengths 2 in. and seal the seam with silicone caulk.
How to pour dead-on footings
Misplaced footings are the most common mistake in deck construction. Use the method shown in
and youll get exact footing placement on your rst try. This deck has only six footings, so you can dig them using a manual posthole digger. If you have more, consider renting a gas-powered auger. Dig them to the size approved on your plan and to the frost depth in your region (Fig. C). In most regions, the building inspector will want to measure the depth and width of your holes before you ll them. Before pouring concrete, reassemble the deck frame and attach the anchors (Photo 5). If you feel condent in your concrete nishing skills, go ahead and order a truckload of concrete and pour the footings and wall caps at the same time. (See Pour Concrete Caps, p. 57). For our footings and caps, we ordered 1-3/4 cu. yds. of concrete, allowing about 10 percent extra for comfort. The pace is fast when you
Photos 3 and 4
42
have a truck on site. Be sure to have at least two extra people to help. If youre a little unsure of your nishing skills, mix bagged concrete for the caps and footings. Its more work, but it will allow you to move at a more relaxed pace. When you pour the concrete into the footing holes, work it in with a stick or the handle of a shovel to ll any voids. Then, using a trowel, strike off the top even with the bottom of the framing.
Framing goes fast
With the layout complete and the concrete set, the framing goes fast. Cut all your joists to length and slip each into the hangers (Photo 6).
TIP: Label any bow (crown) with an arrow pointing up. When you install the joist, always set the crown up.
Check that the top sits ush with the beam and ledger. If you have to, slip a treated shim between the hanger and the joist to raise it, or knock a little off the bottom with a chisel to lower it. Blocking (Photo 6) stiffens
16" 3-1/2"
CONCRETE CAP
2x6 P.T. TOP PLATE 2x6 x 18" P.T. STUD 30-1/4" 2x6 P.T. BOTTOM PLATE
SAW-CUT GROOVES 1/2" P.T. PLYWOOD 2x6 CEDAR DECKING 1/4" 21"
1" CLEARANCE DOUBLE 2x10 P.T. BEAM
Story Number Story Name Deck Issue Editor Jeff Tim Art Director Hope Faye Tech Art Version 3F 5/10/01
16" 3-1/2"
MUDSILL ANCHOR
CONCRETE CAP
3" MIN. GROUND FOOTING DEPTH TO CODE MUDSILL ANCHOR 12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING
2x6 P.T. TOP PLATE 2x6 x 18" P.T. STUD 30-1/4" 2x6 P.T. BOTTOM PLATE then holes,
SAW-CUT GROOVES 1/2" P.T. PLYWOOD 21" FORMING TUBE 2x6 CEDAR DECKING 1/4"
1" CLEARANCE
15" DIA.
WALL ELEVATION FIG. C
FOOTING AND WALL FRAMING

NOTE: P.T. means pressure-treated.
INSERT forming tubes into the footing reposition DOUBLE 2x10 P.T. BEAM the deck frame, again leveling and squaring it. Tack one side of the mudsill anchors to the frame. Slide the forming tubes up to 3" MIN. the bottom of the frame and screw them to a pair of temporary 1x4s to hold them in place. Fill the tubes with concrete, smooth the tops and GROUND let the concrete harden overnight. Check the frame for level the follow12" DIA. ing morning (the concrete may shrink slightly asFOOTING it cures), shimMUDSILL if necCONCRETE ANCHOR DEPTHThen permaessary to level, and double the beams where required. FOOTING TO CODE nently fasten the mudsill anchors to the frame with joist hanger nails.
15" DIA.
OVERHANG
2x6 CEDAR DECKING
CENTER LINE
CUT and install the 2x10 joists, sliding them into the joist hangers. Drive 1-1/4 in. galvanized joist WALL ELEVATION hanger nails into the joists and 16d galvanized box nails into the ledger, filling all the nail holes in the hangers. Nail blocking between the joists with 16d galvanized nails, alternating between the sides formed by a chalk line snapped across the center line of the deck.
2x10 RIM JOIST
BLOCKING
DOUBLE 2x6 x 6" BLOCKING MUDSILL ANCHORS 12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING
2x8 CEDAR TREAD 2x6 CEDAR RISER 2x6 CEDAR DECKING 2x8 CEDAR TREAD
1-1/4" OVERHANG
2x6 CEDAR DECKING
LE 2x6 AM
2x10 RIM JOIST DOUBLE 2x6 x 6" BLOCKING MUDSILL ANCHORS 12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING
TEP DETAIL
JOIST
1-1/4" OVERHANG 2x6 CEDAR RISER
DOUBLE 2x6 P.T. BEAM
FIG. D
STEP DETAIL
FRAMING AND STEP DETAILS

43
TREATED PLYWOOD SHEATHING
Wood & stone deck

ASSEMBLE the 2x6 knee walls according to the plan using 16d galvanized nails. Sheathe the outside with 1/2-in. treated plywood, securing it every 8 in. with 8d galvanized box nails. Snap chalk lines on the plywood at every stud to make sure your nails hit solid wood.
7
STUDS 8d GALV. BOX NAIL CHALK LINE KNEE WALL
a deck that has long joist spans. Its now time for your framing inspection. Youll see the terrace effect take shape as you construct the knee walls (Photos 7 and 8). Using a circular saw, cut your 2x6 studs 18 in. long. Measure for the length of the plates directly off the deck frame, not by referring to your plan. Nail the studs every 16 in. between the plates with 16d galvanized nails. Then attach the plywood, using the factory-cut edge to square up the walls, and tip them up (Photos 7 and 8).
Prep the walls with a solid mortar base
16d NAILS INTO FRAMING EVERY 16" 16" KNEE WALL
INSIDE SHEATHING
1
16d GALV. BOX NAILS 2x6 P.T. TOP PLATE 1/2" P.T. PLYWOOD
2x6 x 18" P.T. STUD 2x6 P.T. BOTTOM PLATE 2x10 RIM JOIST
8d GALV. BOX NAILS DOUBLE 2x10 P.T. BEAM 1/2" P.T. PLYWOOD
FIG. WALL E FRAMING DETAIL

KNEE WALL FRAMING
44
TIP the walls into place and plumb them, shimming under the bottom plate as needed. Nail the bottom plate to the deck framing every 16 in. with 16d nails. Nail the overhanging plywood into the deck framing with 8d nails. Then nail the inside plywood sheathing to the walls.
First staple No. 30 asphalt felt to the plywood and wrap it over the top. It goes on a lot faster if two people work together, one unrolling as the other staples. Overlap any joints by at least 6 in. Nail up galvanized mesh next (Photo 9). Be sure to wear heavy gloves to protect your handsthis stuff is sharp. Cut it with regular metal-cutting shears. Some types of wire mesh have little bumps on the back every 8 in. or so to space the mesh away from the wall (Photo 9). Put the bumps against the wall. Mix up the mortar and apply it to the wall. Wear gloves and goggles to protect your skin from the caustic cement. Mix the mortar two or three bags at a time in a wheelbarrow with a short, at-nosed shovel or a hoe. Add water slowly to the dry mix until it reaches the consistency of whipped cream. Then mix it aggressively for ve minutes. Let it rest for a few minutes before you start applying it to the wall. Test the consistency by drawing the shovel back and forth in the mix. It should have a creamy texture yet still hold its shape when you spread it onto the wall (Photo 10). Youll know
#30 FELT
Wood & stone deck

4" OVERLAP 12" OVER CORNERS GALVANIZED WIRE LATH
Story Number Story Name Deck Issue Editor Jeff Tim Art Director Hope Faye Tech Art Version 3F 5/10/01
CUP ANGLING UP NAIL EVERY 8"
CAP
immediately if the consistency is DOUBLE 2x10 P.T. BEAM right. If the mortar is too wet, itll drip all over the place and fall off WALL the trowel. If its too dry, it will be difcult to press into the mesh and HOUSE BUILDING FELT SIDING itll peel off as you slide the trowel HOUSE SHEATHING DECKING across it. Add mortar mix or water
DECK FLASHING 2x10 UPPER LEDGER WIRE 1-1/2" GALV. LATH ROOFING NAILS, 8" O.C. 2x6 LOWER LEDGER
SCRATCH COAT
CONCRETE CAP
NO. 30 ASPHALT BUILDING FELT 2x6 P.T. FRAMING

3/8" 16d 1/2" P.T. DIA. GALV. PLYWOOD HOLE NAIL
3/8"
7"
STONE
URETHANE CAULK
STAPLE No. 30 asphalt-impregnated felt to all the wall surfaces. Then install metal lath horizontally with the cup of the extrusion aiming upward. Nail it every 8 in. with 1-1/4 in. galvanized roofing nails, wrapping the corners a minimum of 12 in. and overlapping each sheet a minimum of 4 in.
MORTAR
FIG. F
1/4" SPACE 1" SPACE 2x6 CEDAR DECKING JOISTS
JOIST HANGERS RIM 1/2" x 4" LAG SCR JOIST
STONE WALL CAP JOINT DETAIL DETAILS
LEDGER DETA
5-1/2"
10
STEEL TROWEL MORTAR
MIX the mortar according to the directions on the sack and scoop it onto a hawk. Hold the hawk against the wall, and slide the mortar onto the wall with a steel trowel. Firmly press the mortar into the lath, completely covering it by a good 1/8 in. Work fast. Have a helper mix mortar while you spread it.
14"
14"
as needed. Apply the mortar quickly. A STONE APPLICATION helper is crucial to keep a fresh supply mixed and ready to go. Keep the wheelbarrow out of the direct sun to 3/8" R KEEP prevent the mortar from drying out. FROM The next step is to scratch horizontal grooves into the mortar (Photo 11) after it rms up slightly. Use a special tool called a scarier ($7) thats available at stores that specialize in masonry tools, or simply a steel-tined garden rake. 2x4 FORM SIDES The important thing is to set hori1-5/8" DRYWALL SCREW; TOE-SCREW TO PLYWOOD zontal grooves to provide a good 3/4" BIRCH bonding surface. PLYWOOD Cover the mortar scratch coat with plastic and let it harden and CONCRETE CAP MOL dry for two days before applying the stone.
Apply the decking while the mortar cures
1/2" PLYWOOD
HOMEMADE HAWK
2x2 x 6"
1-5/8" DRYWALL SCREWS
HAWK FIG. G
HAWK
We selected 2x6 cedar decking for this project for its natural look, but you could also use one of the new plastic/wood composites for extra durability. Start by attaching the

46
SCARIFIER
HORIZONTAL SCRATCHES
Wood & stone deck
1 1
SCRATCH COAT
SCRATCH horizontal lines into the mortar with a rake (or scarifier) while the mortar is still soft.
1ST STEP
2x8 START 2ND STEP 2x8
16d 3-1/2" GALVANIZED CASING NAILS
2x6 DECKING
12
INSTALL the decking. Drive two 16d galvanized casing nails through the 2x6 decking into each joist. Set the nails slightly below the surface with a nail set. Start at the step of the lower deck, work toward the house, then align the boards of the upper deck to the lower and work away from the house. Straighten bowed boards by drawing them toward you with a chisel driven into the joist. Then nail, using a nail for a spacer between boards.
riser trim to the lower step (Fig. D, p. 43) then the 2x8 tread to the top on the lower platform. A 1-1/4 in. overhang on the tread creates a shadow line, making an attractive step. Then work in toward the house, spacing the 2x6 boards with the casing nails. Put the best-looking side face up. Start with a good, straight board and align the others with it. To straighten a bowed board, lay it with the arc against the installed one. Nail one end and work to the other, prying the board straight with a chisel as you go (Photo 12). As you get within 3 ft. of a wall, measure the remaining distance to see if its equal on both ends. If not, stretch your spacing slightly between the boards to make the last board at the house (and at the stone wall) even. Youll probably have to rip (cut the long way) the last board to width. Apply the riser trim to the upper step and nail on the 2x8 tread (Photo 12). Then lay the rst board against the house, ripping it to the width of the nal board on the lower deck to make the decking line up. Butt the ends of the deck boards up tight to the treads, but leave the other ends about 1 in. from the knee walls so water and debris can fall through. The stone will cover this gap once installed. When youre done decking, place cardboard over the surface to protect it from scratches and mortar stains while youre working with the stone.
6"
LEVEL CHALK LINES
FLAT PIECES
CORNER PIECES
13
SNAP level chalk lines on the walls every 6 in. as rough guidelines. Apply the stone, starting with the bottom corners and working your way up and out, staying in a stair-step shape. Spread a pile of stones nearby to provide a wide selection.

48
POINTED TROWEL
Wood & stone deck
14
STONE MORTAR
BUTTER each stone by spreading mortar on the back. Press the mortar into the pores of the stone as you draw the trowel toward you, drawing off the excess.
Watch our pro set stone
15
DROP a dollop of mortar onto the buttered stone and evenly spread a 1/2- to 3/4-in. layer, completely covering the back.
16
CLEAN AWAY EXCESS MORTAR
PRESS the stone into place, giving it a wiggle to seat it against the wall. Tap the stone with the handle of the trowel for slight adjustments. Leave about a 1/2-in. gap between stones. Using the point of the trowel, clean away excess mortar that oozes out into the joint.
Applying the stone is the most creative and enjoyable part of the project. Its half art and half technique. First snap level chalk lines 6 in. apart on the face of the walls, measuring up from the bottom of the wall (Photo 13). Use these lines as a guide, not an absolute reference, to keep the stones level as you work. Next spread a generous amount of stone out on scrap plywood to keep it clean and dry. Select stones from different boxes to get a feel for the various shapes, sizes and colors youll be working with. Start at the bottom of an outside corner rst and apply the special corner stones. Work your way toward the top in a pyramid fashion (Photos 13 and 16). In the last 12 to 18 in., search for three or four stones that will end ush with the top, by dry-tting them in place (without mortar). As you select a stone, always think about how the next one or two pieces will t. Try to t as many pieces as possible without cutting. Its a bit of a puzzle. You can cut stone if you have to, but its dusty, it slows down the work, and the cut edge doesnt look quite as natural as the cast edge. To cut the stone, use a hand-held grinder with a diamond blade (Photo 17). Hold the stone in place and mark it, allowing 1/2 in. on each side for the joint spacing. Then make your cut with the face of the stone up. Wear a dust mask and hearing protection while you cut. Adhering the stone is a three-step process (Photos 14 16). First you parge the stone (press mortar into the back of the piece), then apply a second layer evenly across the back and nally, press the stone in place.
ABOUT 1/2"

50
Wood & stone deck

HAND-HELD 4" GRINDER
17
MASONRY BLADE
CUT the stone as needed with a hand-held grinder equipped with a diamondtipped masonry or tile blade. Firmly hold the stone on plywood with your fingers well away from the blade.
Be sure the scratch coat is dry before you apply the stone. The stone must also be dry, so protect it from moisture. Dont even consider installing it on a wet or drizzly day.
TIP:
Add about a quarter of a shovel of Portland cement to three bags of mortar mix to richen it up a little. This is our pros secret, for your eyes only!
FILLED JOINTS
18
ACCIDENTAL DRIP
TWIST
GROUT BAG
SQUEEZE mortar into all joints, filling them completely, using a grout bag. Start from the top and work your way down. Twist the bag slightly with one hand as you squeeze with the other hand to force the mortar out of the bag. Let the mortar set long enough to hold a thumbprint.
19
RAKED JOINTS WHISK BROOM
RAKE the excess back about 1/4 in. from the face of the stone with a 3/8-in. pointing trowel. Then brush loose, crumbled mortar away with a whisk broom.
Keep the mortar at a stiff whipping cream consistency. As you work, it will dry out, so add a little water now and then to keep it workable. Throw out leftover mortar after a half hour and mix a fresh batch. Begin on the least conspicuous wall rst to get the hang of it. Step back from the wall occasionally to be sure the colors blend well and the shapes and sizes are spread evenly throughout the wall. Resist the temptation to put the stone in rows all the same width. Break rows up fairly often with a larger piece. Stagger your vertical joints. Aim for about 1/2-in. joint spacing, but dont get obsessed with individual pieces. When you set the stones on the inside walls, keep them 1/4 in. off the deck surface to allow for airow and to prevent rot. With the stones set, nish the joints by grouting (Photo 18). Use a grout bag ($6) to ll the joints with mortar, like squeezing frosting from a pastry bag.
TIP:
If the bag youre using has a metal tip inside, remove it. The tip tends to clog with mortar.
3/8" POINTING TROWEL
Mix the grouting mortar a bit more moist than you did for setting stone. Fill the bag using your trowel and give it a test squeeze. The mortar should be thick but ow rather than clog up. It takes some effort to force the mortar out of the bag. Your forearms will feel the strain after a while. Work quickly. If you drip mortar on the stone, let it dry before More WOOD & STONE DECK
52
Wood & stone deck

SET the concrete caps in a bed of mortar on top of the wall. Tap them down to make the tops even. Rake away the excess mortar with your pointing trowel.
20
Materials List Footings and framing

ITEM
12 dia. x 48 long cardboard forming tubes
QTY.
6 1 cu. yd. 6 21 3 8 30 2 14 2 5 lbs. 10 lbs. 28 26
SIDING DECKING
aye 5/10/01
EDAR KING
you brush it away. If you wipe it the mortar dries, ll the remaining now, itll smear and stain the stone. gap with a gray urethane caulk to In 15 to 60 minutes, the mortar form a watertight seal. should stiffen to thumbprint hard All thats left is to put a quality (a thumb barely leaves a print when sealer on the decking to protect it. you press into it). Then rake away Bring on the furniture, then sit back the excess with a pointing trowel and enjoy a well-deserved 2x6 CEDAR 2x6 CEDAR 6" (FROM break! 1-1/4" 2x10 RISER HOUSE) OVERHANG LEDGER (Photo 19 ). When raked, it should DECKING fall away as moist crumbs. After you Buyers Guide for Manufactured Stone rake a few square feet, lightly brush BOULDER CREEK, Dept. TFH, 8282 Arthur St., away any excess with a whisk Story Lake Number Spring Park, MN 55432; (800) 762-5902. broom. If the mortar smears, let it Story Name Deck www.bouldercreekstone.com Issue CORONADO STONE PRODUCTS, Dept. TFH, harden longer. 5-1/2"
the caps
Editor Jeff Tim 11191 Calabash Ave., Fontana, CA 92337; 2x10 (800) 847-8663. www.coronado.com Art Director Hope Faye 7 JOISTS CULTURED STONE, Dept. TFH, P.O. Box 270, 12" O.C. Tech Art Version 3F 5/10/01 Napa, CA 94559-0270; (800) 255-1727. 2x10 P.T. www.culturedstone.com BLOCKING
Concrete Mudsill anchors 2x10 x 14 treated joists, ledger and beam 2x6 x 10 treated ledger and beam 2x6 x 8 treated joists 2x10 joist hangers 2x10 end joist hangers 2x6 joist hangers 2x6 double beam hanger Joist hanger nails 3-1/2 16d galvanized box nails 4 x 1/2 lag screws with washers 3-1/2 lag screws with washers 2 lag shields*
2x8 CEDAR Setting TREAD
26 HOUSE BUILDING FELT 10 pieces of deck ashing 3 HOUSE SHEATHING 2x6 x 14 cedar decking 31 2x6 x 10 cedar decking DECK FLASHING 2x8 x 10 cedar treads 2x10 UPPER 3-1/2 galvanized LEDGER casing nails 18 2 15 lbs.
Lift the caps into place (Photo 20). 2x6 BLOCKING These caps are heavy, so work care2x10 RIM fully. Clean the work site to avoid 8 3 JOIST tripping, and lift with your legs, not your back. Check for level, and then if necessary, wiggle on one end or 6 (END DOUBLE the other as you press down to level OF 2x6 2x6 BEAM WALL) " DIA. the cap. Immediately check to make ONCRETE OTING sure your overhang is even on all 9 0" sides. The mortar grabs pretty 12" fast, DIA. DOUBLE CONCRETE 2x10 5-1/2" so work quickly. As you work, sight FOOTING BEAM down the wall to make sure the caps are straight. Give each cap a 3/8-in. gap and later ll it with mortar to 3/8 in. from the top (Fig. H). After
7
* Optional for attaching the rim joist to 2x6 LOWER LEDGER concrete or masonry
CONCRETE CAP 2x6 P.T. WALL PLATES AND STUDS URETHANE CAULK 1/2" P.T. PLYWOOD
3/8"
14
Wood and stone 7" for knee walls

2x6 x 14 treated plates 2x6 x 12 cut for studs 4x8 x 1/2 treated plywood 30-lb. asphalt-impregnated building felt 1/2 staples 27 x 8 galvanized wire lath 1-1/4 galvanized roong nails 5 16d 5GALV. 8NAIL
JOIST HANGERS 3/8" DIA. HOLE
MORTAR 1" SPACE
2 rolls 1/2" x 4" LAG SCRE 1 box 14 pieces 30 1 145 sq. ft. 14 lin. ft. 5 lbs.
LEDGER DETAIL
FIG. H JOINT DETAIL CAP

CAP JOINT DETAIL
CONCRETE CAPS 14
80-lb. bags premixed mortar 80-lb. bag Portland cement Manufactured stone ats Manufactured stone corners
Caps
CONCRETE CAPS
32-3/8" (2 CAPS) 44-3/8" (4 CAPS) 38-1/2" (4 CAPS)
4 x 8 x 3/4 birch plywood 2x4 x 8studs 3 drywall screws 1-5/8 drywall screws
3 14 1 lb. 1 lb. 10 2/3 cu. yd.
3/8" RE KEEP 1 FROM
3/8" (TYPICAL)
16"
2x6 WALL
10 x 3/8 rebar Concrete
FIG. J
CONCRETE CAP DIMENSIONS
54
2x4 FORM SIDES 1-5/8" DRYWALL SCREW;
Pour Concr et e
JOIST HANGERS
URETHANE CAULK
16d GALV. NAIL
3/8" DIA. HOLE
JOIST Wood & HANGER stone deck NAIL
1/2" x 4" LAG SCREW AND WASHER
OINT DETAIL
Caps
LEDGER DETAIL
CONCRETE CAP MOLD

3/8" REBAR; KEEP 1" (MIN.) FROM FORM
2x4 FORM SIDES 1-5/8" DRYWALL SCREW; TOE-SCREW TO PLYWOOD 3/4" BIRCH PLYWOOD 3" DRYWALL SCREW
14"
CUT the 2x4s to length and screw the ends together CONCRETE CAP MOLD with 3-in. drywall screws. Toe-screw (screw at an angle) the sides to the 3/4-in. plywood base every 12 in. with 1-5/8 in. screws. Cut the 3/8-in. rebar to length with a circular saw and a metal-cutting blade.
Some manufacturers make special capstones for topping off these walls, but for a smooth, more durable nish, we recommend making your own concrete caps. Heres how. Cut and assemble the forms according to the sizes in Fig. J, p. 54. When designing your own caps, limit lengths to about 3 ft. (150 lbs.!) Beyond that they get too heavy to carry safely. Screw together everything so you can remove the 2x4s easily. Follow Steps A E. The biggest mistake is to tool the concrete too soon, before the water that comes to the surface has time to reabsorb. Here are a few more tips to help your concrete work go smoothly.
I Wear rubber gloves, goggles, long pants
1-5/8" DRYWALL SCREWS
WK
FILL the forms one-third full with concrete, drop in the rebar, then finish filling the forms. Work the concrete into the corners and sides with the blade of the shovel as you go.
LEVEL the excess concrete flush with the top of the form, then hit the sides of the form sharply with a hammer to eliminate air pockets. Quickly smooth it with two or three swipes of a magnesium trowel. Let the concrete set until any water that rises to the surface disappears and the concrete is thumbprint stiff. Then tool the edges with an edging tool to round them over. Finally, smooth the surface with a steel trowel.
UNSCREW one side of the form when the concrete stiffens. This may take as little as 30 minutes or as long as three hours. If the concrete holds its shape (doesnt sag), smooth the side with a steel trowel, filling in any voids left in the concrete. If the concrete slumps, put the form back in place and let it set longer. Otherwise, remove the 2x4 forms and smooth all sides. Let the concrete set for a week.
and a long-sleeve shirt to protect your skin. I Wet the forms before pouring the concrete. I Place the forms on a at, level surface. Wet concrete will lie level when you settle the mix with a hammer (Photo C). I Protect the fresh concrete from rain and direct sun. I Pour the concrete in the morning. The lower temperatures will prevent the concrete from setting too fast and give you more nishing time. I Let the caps set for at least a week to harden.
Art Direction HOPE FAY and DAVID FARR Photography JIM ERICKSON and BILL ZUEHLKE Consultant BRUCE FOLKE
TURN the caps over and score a groove in the bottom 1 in. from the edge and about 1/4 in. deep to help water drip off. Use a circular saw and a masonry blade.
EDGING TOOL
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JULY / AUGUST 2001
57
38
MAY 2004 THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
Dream
Cantilevered bays, overhead lattice, custom rails and cascading stairs make this deck unique and highly functional
by Jeff Gorton
Deck
his deck isnt hugeabout 16 ft. wide x 18 ft. deep plus bays and stairsbut its big on features. The upper deck is just the right size for entertaining small groupsspacious but intimate. It has cantilevered nooks on both sides that provide space for seating and barbecue storage. The pergola shades the upper deck and the homes interior from the sun, and it offers a space for hanging or climbing plants. The lower deck is a great place to hang out in the sun, while the cascading stairs ow into the yard and provide lots of space for planters and pots. This deck has some out-of-theordinary construction details that contribute to its unique look. For starters, the deck joists run parallel to the house and overhang the beams to form the cantilevered bays on both sides. Rather than a bolted-on ledger board, special long-tail joist hangers support the deck at the house. The deck material is also unusual. Its a low-maintenance composite material with a tongue-and-groove shape that
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN MAY 2004
39
BEAM CENTER 6' 8' 10'
1
90 DEGREES
BATTER BOARDS
Set stakes at the house and drive nails to indicate the beam centers. Stake out batter boards about 1 ft. beyond the perimeter. Stretch a string between the boards parallel to the house. Use the 6-8-10 triangle method to stretch strings perpendicular to the house. Measure diagonally to check for square.
allows you to hide the fasteners by driving them through the tongues. The rail system combines horizontal boards for privacy and an open design of copper plumbing tubes at the top, allowing you to see out easily. These unusual details make the deck a bit harder to build, so youll have to follow the photos and drawings carefully to get everything to t. If you have some carpentry experience, you shouldnt have any trouble building this deck. Its a big project, though, and will probably take you and a helper about two solid weeks to complete.You dont need any special tools, although a power miter saw speeds up the work.
TAMPER
42" DEEP FOOTING HOLES
Dig the footing holes. Mix two 80-lb. bags of concrete for each footing hole and shovel it in. Nail a 6-in. 2x4 to the bottom of a longer 2x4 and use this to tamp and flatten the top of the footings.
Plan aheadyou may have to special-order a few items

Youll nd treated lumber, cedar boards and many of the metal fasteners at your local home center or full-service lumberyard. Youll probably have to special-order the Geodeck decking, the 6x6 QuattroPosts and the special long-tail beam hangers (KantSag MSH222-2).You can substitute other hanger brands, but use joist hangers labeled G-185. These have extra zinc coating to prevent corrosion caused by the chemicals in treated wood. Expect to spend about $7,000 on materials for this deck. Before you order materials, submit a deck plan to your local building department. Include details for the footings, attachment to the house, steps and handrails, and brand of composite decking. Some of the details we show may not be acceptable in your area. A few days before you plan to dig the footings, call to have underground utilities in the vicinity of the deck located and marked (888-258-0808). Then follow Photos 1 21 and Figures A F to build the deck, rail and trellis.
CONCRETE
3
DECK CENTER 12" "LONG-TAIL" GALVANIZED BEAM FLASHING HANGER
19-3/4"
Remove the siding from the level of your finished deck on down. Slide No. 30 building paper and galvanized flashing under the siding and nail it with galvanized roofing nails. Position the beam hangers and nail them to the house framing.
Locate the footing holes accurately with string lines

Start by driving two stakes along the house, centered on the outside beams. Drive nails into these stakes to mark the center of the beams. Next stake out two sets of batter boards about 1 ft. outside the perimeter of the deck (Photo 1). The top of the horizon-
40
Dream Deck
Figure A Deck
2x4 ROUGH CEDAR 12" O.C. 1' 8"
3'
3"
DOUBLE 2x12 BEAM (ROUGH CEDAR) 6x6 PERGOLA POST 2x10 JOISTS 16" O.C.
2x6 CEDAR TOP CAP
4x4 CEDAR POSTS
SEE FIGURE D ON PAGE 51 1x6 CEDAR 2x8 STAIR FRAME 2x8 RIPPED TO 6"
DOUBLE 2x10 BEAMS
6x6 POST
CONCRETE PAD
5/4 x 6 TONGUE & GROOVE (T&G) GEODECK
1x8 CEDAR TRIM
5/4 x 6 SQUARE-EDGED GEODECK
NOTE: ALL FRAMING PRESSURE-TREATED
Figure C Deck Framing Plan

2' 9" 15' 4" 2' 9" 2' 5-3/4" FOOTING & POSTS
11' 10-1/2"
Figure B Deck Framing Elevation

2x10 JOISTS 7-1/4" STEPS DOUBLE 2x10 BEAMS 6x6 POSTS
6' 11"
2' 5-3/4"
6' 7' 6-1/2" 1' 8" 3' 10-3/4"
FOOTINGS TO FROST DEPTH
8" THICK CONCRETE PAD

41
6' 4"
Dream Deck
tal boards should be close to level with the top of the stakes near the house. Finally, stretch strings between the stakes and batter boards and square them to the house. Use the 6-8-10 triangle method to establish lines that are perpendicular to the house (Photo 1). Measure 6 ft. along the house then 8 ft. out from the house and mark the string. Then measure between the 6-ft. and 8-ft. marks and move the end of the string line along the batter board until the distance is exactly 10 ft. (Photo 1). Double-check your entire string setup by measuring diagonally from corner to corner as in Photo 4. Adjust the lines until the diagonal measurements are equal. After marking the footing locations, dig the holes to the depth required. Make the holes at least 12 in. in diameter to allow room for slightly adjusting the position of the 6x6 treated posts. After your building inspector has approved the excavation, pour an 8-in. deep concrete pad in the bottom of each hole (Photo 2).
4
TEMPORARY BRACE DOUBLE 2x10 BEAMS
DIAGONAL MEASUREMENT
TEMPORARY POST
Cut and nail together 2x10s for the three double beams. Rest the beams on the beam hangers and nail a 2x10 across the front. Prop the beams so they slope about 2 in. down from the house. Adjust the beam assembly until the diagonal measurements are equal. Then nail on a diagonal brace.
5
CENTER BEAM MARK POST
Mark the 6x6 posts to fit under the beams and cut them to length. Then position the posts with their outside edges flush with the beams (Figure C) and attach them with metal postto-beam anchors (Photo 7).
You dont need a bolted-on ledger board for this deck

The beams are supported by 6x6 posts and are connected to the house by special longtail beam hangers (Photo 3). The details of installing ashing and attaching these hangers to your house may differ from what we show, but a successful installation hinges on two key points. After you cut away the siding, slide the ashing under the siding and the existing building paper to make sure it sheds water. And second, nail the hangers into solid wood or consult your building inspector for the correct way to fasten the hangers to concrete, brick or block if necessary. Use 16d common hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails to attach the hanger to the house and to the beams. Measure carefully to make sure the hangers are the correct distance down from the top of the deck surface and that theyre level with each other (Photo 3). After the beam hangers have been attached to the house, the next step is to construct the beams and install them on temporary supports. Since the tongue-and-
CANTILEVERED JOISTS EXTRA BLOCKING
HURRICANE ANCHORS OVERLAP JOISTS
Cut the 2x10 joists and position them according to the dimensions in Figure C. Attach them to the beams with hurricane anchors. Overlap the cantilevered joists in the middle.
42
Dream Deck
groove decking boards t tight together, without space for water to run through, slope the deck about 2 in. away from the house for drainage. Do this by leveling the beams and marking the temporary 2x4 supports. Then measure down 2 in. and make another set of marks. Line up the beams with the lower marks. Tie all three beams together with a 2x10 across the front. Then square and brace the beams (Photo 4). With the beams in place, its easy to measure for the posts. Just cut them a little long and drop them into the holes (Photo 5). Place the uncut factory end of the post down for the best rot resistance. Then mark the post at the bottom of the joist and cut each post at the marks. Connect the posts to the beams with metal post-to-beam anchors (Photo 7). Double-check that the beam assembly is square. Then ll the holes with the soil you removed, packing it as you go.
POST CAP ANCHOR
Attach the beams for the lower deck section to the two outside posts with special inverted flange joist hangers. Cut and attach the corner posts and square the assembly as shown in Photos 4 and 5. Nail joist hangers to the beams. Use a 2x10 scrap to aid in positioning.
INVERTED FLANGE HANGER
JOIST HANGER
ALIGN TOPS FLUSH SPACER BLOCK
EXTRA JOIST
BLOCKING RIM JOIST
STACK RIM JOIST FLUSH WITH BEAM BLOCKING
Cut the joists to length, drop them into their hangers and nail them with galvanized hanger nails. Cut and nail blocking between the joists at the midpoint.
44
Dream Deck
Adding joists is a snap
Prepare for installing the joists by marking their positions on the top of the beams. Study Figures A and C for help in positioning the joists that overhang the beams. They overlap in the center and require additional blocking at the overhang to line up correctly. Cut the joists and tack them to the beams. Check that the overhanging sections are square to the main deck. Also sight down the front joist and outside joists of the overhanging sections to make sure theyre straight. When youre condent everythings square and straight, fasten the joists to the beams with hurricane ties (Kant-Sag RT-7; Photo 6). The joists for the lower deck section t inside the beams, rather than run overtop. Build the beams and support them on posts just as you did for the upper section (Photo 7). Then cut the joists to t inside and attach them with metal joist hangers and galvanized joist hanger nails (Photo 8). Add a row of blocking down the center to increase stiffness. The extra joists and blocking on the front of both the upper and the lower sections are needed to support the deck board that forms the stair nosing (Photo 8 and Figure C).
FULL-LENGTH DECK BOARD
TEMPORARY BLOCK
DECKING NOT NAILED
NAIL 1-1/2" OVERHANG
1-1/2" OVERHANG
Set a fulllength deck board to overhang the joists by 1-1/2 in. and screw temporary blocks behind it. Cut six deck boards for the cantilevered section and press the tongues and grooves together. Measure the overhang (it should be 1-1/2 in.) and nail the first board into place. Unscrew the blocks and slide the decking back.
10
NAIL THROUGH TONGUE
Slide the tongues and grooves together and line up the ends. Then nail through the tongue into each joist at the angle shown. Use 10d stainless steel ring shank nails.
1-1/2" OVERHANG
We designed this deck to use all full-width and continuous-length deck boards
To avoid having to rip the deck boards lengthwise and expose the hollow inside, we planned the deck framing to accommodate full-width boards. Adjust your framing dimensions if you use a different-width deck board. With careful planning, youll have 1-1/2 in. overhangs. The horizontal 1x6s in the railing cover the hollow ends of the deck boards. We left a 1/2-in. space between the deck boards and rail to allow water and debris to escape. Photo 9 shows how to get started installing the decking. Precutting and laying out the boards without nailing them gives you a chance to double-check your framing and make sure the rst 12-ft. long deck board is straight and has the proper overhang.Youll have to drive nails through the top face of the rst board (Photo 9).
46
11
Run the edge of your saw bed against the straightedge to cut a straight line for the recessed stair nosing board. Remove the tongue at one end with a chisel to allow a tight fit. Nail on the stair nosing board.
STAIR NOSING BOARD
STRAIGHTEDGE SCREWS
REMOVE TONGUE
1-3/4" OVERHANG
Dream Deck
Nail the remaining deck boards through their tongues into each joist (Photo 10). We used 2-1/2 in. stainless steel ring-shank siding nails, but 2-1/2 in. hot-dipped galvanized nails will also work. Sight down the rst full-length board to make sure its perfectly straight. Its difficult to correct problems later. Leave the ends of the boards long and use a straight board as a guide to cut them later (Photo 11). Along the edge of the lower platform and at the stairs, use square-edged rather than tongue-and-groove decking (Photo 11 inset and Photo 19). Photo 19 shows how to cut and nail the stair nosings and border pieces. Face-nail these boards.
12
Mark the 1-1/2 in. notches for the six 4x4 corner posts to fit over the joists and decking. First, cut them with your circular saw. Pry out the cutout piece and clean up the notch with a sharp chisel. Notch four 4x4 posts for the ends. Drill 1-1/8 in. holes 3/4 in. deep for the copper railings (Figure D).
CORNER POST
CLEAN UP CORNER
END POST
Take your time crafting the posts; theyre full of tricky details
The rail system starts with posts that are notched 1-1/2 in. to t around the joists and drilled to accept the 1-in. copper tubing. The trickiest part about making the posts is keeping track of the orientation of the notches and holes. Heres a tip. Cut the posts to length and distribute them to their locations on the deck. Move from one to the next, marking the notches and holes. Then move them to your sawhorses for cutting and drilling (Photo 12). We used manufactured 6x6 posts for the trellis (QuattroPost brand; see Buyers Guide, p. 55). They wont split and twist like regular 6x6s and are almost perfectly straight. The hollow interior makes it easier to cut and notch these posts. Standard 6x6s
13
Mark the corners and end post locations on the decking. Notch out the decking with a jigsaw to allow the posts to fit tight to the joists.
JIGSAW NOTCH FOR POST
14
Aged copper
The copper tubing will age naturally to a mellow bronze color, and after many years may turn green. We accelerated the process by thoroughly cleaning the copper with steel wool, and then applying copper aging solution according to the manufacturers instructions. You can nd copper aging solution at antiques stores, paint stores and hobby shops. Gun bluing solution will also work.
Drill 1-in. countersink holes and 3/8-in. clearance holes in the posts for the lag screws. Cut the copper tubes and set them in their holes. Plumb the posts with shims and attach them with lag screws.
1" COPPER TUBING
PLUMB POST 2' LEVEL
CEDAR SHIMS
3/8" x 4" LAG SCREW
48
Dream Deck
NOTCH FOR BEAM
15
6x6 POST
12" 3" TEST PIECE SCRIBBLE SPACE FOR WASTE 2x4 BACKERS
Cut a test piece from a 6x6 scrap and use it to check the deck notching and as a guide for laying notches on the 6x6 pergola posts. Mark the waste with a scribbled line to avoid confusion. Use a circular saw to cut the notches and finish them with a handsaw.
will also work, but theyre likely to crack. Double-check measurements before cutting.You dont want to goof up on these expensive posts. Notch the decking for the posts (Photo 12). Then drive 3/8-in. x 4-in. lag screws through predrilled 3/8-in. clearance holes to secure the posts. Use a tubing cutter to cut the copper tubing and install it along with the posts. Dont forget to cut, drill and center the two short pieces of 2x4 cedar that support the top railing and copper tubes on each cantilevered section (opening photo).
3"
Figure D Pergola Post

1-1/8" HOLES 6x6 POST 2x6 CEDAR TOP RAIL 1" COPPER PIPE 4x4 CEDAR POST 13-1/4"
"WEATHERED" COPPER TUBING
16
3-3/4" BLOCK
POST 2" DECK SCREWS
Cut the lower rail caps to fit (see Marking and Cutting the Lower Rail Cap, below). Butt a 3-3/4 in. block against the copper tube and clamp it in place. Predrill holes. Then drive 2-in. deck screws to support the 1x6 caps. Cut, fit and nail the 2x6 top rail into place.
4-1/4" 4-3/4"
35-3/4"
2x4 CEDAR
5/8" SPACE 1x6 CEDAR
Marking and cutting the lower rail cap

2x4 BACKERS 6x6 POST MARK INTERSECTION NOTCHED CAP MARK FOR MITER MARK INTERSECTION 1x6 RAIL CAP
NOTCHED CAP
Cut the 1x6 lower rail caps, allowing extra length. Mark the post locations. Then use a Speed square to mark the 3-1/2 in. deep notches at these locations. Saw out the notches for the posts.
Mark the intersection of the two tails. Make another mark on each cap where they intersect at the post. Connect the marks and cut the angle with a power miter saw or circular saw.
Lap the cut piece overtop and mark the angle on the lower piece. Cut this angle and check the fit.
50
TOP 2x6 CAP
MITER
Figure E Deck Railing

1" COPPER PIPE 2x6 CEDAR CAP 1x6 CEDAR
1x6 LOWER RAIL CAP WRAP POST
4x4 CEDAR POST 5/4 x 6 SQUARE-EDGED GEODECK 5/4 x 6 T&G GEODECK

NOTCH TO FIT
1x6 CEDAR
17
1x6 CEDAR WRAP
Space the horizontal 1x6s with 5/8-in. thick blocks and nail them to the posts. Rip and notch boards to wrap the end posts. See Figure E, left.
2x8 STEP PLATFORMS
MARK POSTS
18
Rip 2x8s for the lower stair and build the stair platforms. Stack and level them. Nail the platforms to the deck and to each other. Dig footings and pour concrete pads for the bottom stairs. Cut 6x6 posts to support them.
51
Dream Deck
1" OVERHANG
Figure F Stair Elevation

SQUARE-EDGED GEODECK NOSING 10" 2x8 STEPS
7-1/4" RISER
7-1/4" 7-1/4"
TREAD NOSING SPACER BOARD 7-1/4" RISER
DOUBLE 2x10 BEAM
20"
6"
19
6" RISER
Cover the framing with 1x8 cedar riser boards ripped to fit. Then cut and nail on the treads. Use square-edged Geodeck for the treads. Miter the corners of the outside treads to conceal the hollow interior of the deck boards.
1x8 T&G CEDAR GEODECK 2x10 JOISTS
Materials List
Item FOUNDATION 1x3 pine (batter boards and stakes) Bagged concrete mix 6x6 x 8' .60 treated lumber BEAMS AND JOISTS 2x10 x 12' .40 treated lumber (joists and beams) 2x10 x 16' .40 treated lumber (joists and beams) STAIR FRAME 2x8 x 8' .40 treated lumber DECKING 5/4 x 6 t&g Geodeck, 12' lengths 5/4 x 6 t&g Geodeck, 14' lengths 5/4 x 6 square-edged Geodeck, 16' lengths RAILING 4x4 x 10' cedar (rail posts) 4x4 x 8' cedar (rail post) 1x6 x 12' cedar boards (rails and post wrap) 1x6 x 14' cedar boards 2x4 x 12' cedar (rail backing) 2x6 x 8' cedar (rail cap) 2x6 x 12' cedar (rail cap) 1" copper plumbing, 10' lengths STAIR RISERS AND TRIM 1x8 x 8' cedar boards 10 3 2 20 8 4 3 2 10 52 7 12 30 24 14 24 lin. ft. PERGOLA 28 bags 7 6x6 x 10' QuattroPost 2x4 x 12' rough cedar 2x12 x 16' rough cedar (beams) HARDWARE 12" galvanized metal ashing 3-1/8" x 22-1/4" adjustable strap hanger long-tail (Kant-Sag MSH222-2) 6x6 post cap (Kant-Sag PB66-6) Hurricane ties (Kant-Sag RT 7) Double 2x10 inverted ange hangers (Kant-Sag HD210-21F) Single 2x10 joist hangers (Kant-Sag HD210) 3/8" x 4" galvanized lag screws (rail posts) 3/8" washers (for lag screws) 16d common double-dipped galvanized nails 8d stainless steel ring-shank siding nails (decking) 1" galvanized roong nails Galvanized joist hanger nails 8d galvanized casing nails 16d galvanized casing nails 2" deck screws 2-1/2" deck screws 18 lin. ft. 4 18 6 Qty. Item 1x8 x 10' cedar boards Qty. 6
Fitting the 1x6 lower rail cap is challenging, since its notched around each post and mitered at the corners. The key is to mark boards in place whenever possible. See Marking and Cutting the Lower Rail Cap, p. 50. Even though the cap ts between the posts at about 21 in. above the deck, mark the notches at deck level. This will ensure that the posts will be parallel to each other when the caps are screwed in.
Install the horizontal 1x6s

Start at the top and work down, using 5/8-in. blocks to maintain even spaces between boards. Cut the end of the 1x6s square and overlap them at the outside corners. Plan the overlaps so the butt ends of the boards are facing the sides of the deck where theyre less conspicuous. Measure down to the decking at opposite ends before nailing each row to keep the boards parallel to the decking. The lower boards hide the treated framing. Cover the ends of the boards near the stairs by wrapping the boards and 4x4 posts with 1x6s (Photo 17 and Figure E).Youll have to rip and notch the 1x6 boards to t.
3 11 20
2 12 36 36 10 lbs. 10 lbs. 1 lbs. 5 lbs. 2 lbs. 2 lbs. 1 lb. 2 lbs.
You dont need to cut complicated stringers for these stairs

Rather than notch 2x12s to make traditional stair stringers, we chose to build and stack platforms. This method requires more lumber but eliminates complicated layout work. If the top surface of your deck is 42-1/2 in. above the ground, you can build the two sets of steps exactly as shown in Figure A. Otherwise youll have to adjust the rise or
52
Dream Deck
change the number of steps to t your situation. To simplify the design process, draw the entire stair system actual size on a large piece of cardboard (Figure F). It takes an hour or so but helps prevent mistakes. Codes vary slightly, so check with your building inspector before constructing the stairs. In general, plan for a rise (distance from the top of one tread to the top of the next tread) of between 6 and 7-1/2 in. and a tread about 10 in. (11 in. with the nosing). Finish the stairs with 1x8 riser boards, ripped to t, and treads (Photo 19). On sloping lots, you can regrade the lawn a little to make the lowest rise more consistent.
20
Cut decorative ends and splice the front 2x12s over the center of the posts. Attach them with 2-1/2 in. deck screws. Nail a second 2x12 to the first to create a beam. Splice the second 2x12 in the center.
SCREW TO POST
SPLICE AT POST
Set beams on the notched 6x6 posts and add 2x4s to complete the pergola
To avoid having to special-order 22-ft. long beam material, simply splice shorter pieces as we show (Photos 20 and 21). A single 2x12 has enough strength. The second 2x12 simply improves the appearance. Start by arranging the 16-ft. 2x12s for the best grain and color match at the splices. Then lay out and cut one tail (Figure A) and use it as a pattern to mark and cut the three remaining tails. Use 2-1/2 in. deck screws to connect the beams to the notched 6x6 posts. Install the rst layer (Photo 20). Then nail the second layer to the rst with 2-1/2 in. galvanized casing nails. Complete the lattice by screwing the 12-ft. 2x4s to the beams (Photo 21).
ANGLED 2-1/2" DECK SCREW
Finish the wood parts of your deck to protect and preserve them
We applied Cabots clear nish for the most natural look. The drawbacks to clear nishes like this is that they dont protect against graying as well as nishes with more pigment and they must be reapplied annually. In general, the more pigment, or color, a deck nish has, the greater protection it offers.
Buyers Guide
GEODECK: (781) 275-3600. www.geodeck.com. Composite decking material. QUATTROPOST BY SYNERGY PACIFIC: (250) 5466808. www.synergypacic.com. Manufacturer of 6x6 QuattroPost. If you need help nding a dealer, send an e-mail to sales@quattropost.com.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art FRANK ROHRBACH III Deck Design MARCELO VALDES, SALA ARCHITECTS Deck Consultant DECK AND DOOR COMPANY, BOB HEIDENRICH, JON BRENNHOFER MARKS FOR 2X4S
21
Mark the top of the 2x12s for the 2x4 lattice boards. Cut the 2x4s to length and mark the beam locations on them. Align the marks and screw them together with 2-1/2 in. deck screws.
55
Barbecue
Make your own all-weather cooking island with wood framing, stone veneer and stone tile
other items.We wrapped these features in a weatherresistant tile top and stone veneer walls to deliver a low-maintenance and attractive patio feature that will last for decades. In this article, well show you how to build a simple treated 2x4 and plywood frame, as well as how to lay the tile tabletop and grill surround and how to set the stone. This project isnt for the novice.You should have some basic experience with carpentry tools and setting tile. Masonry experience will help too, but with some practice and attention to detail, youll get the hang of applying stone veneer.
ant to transform your ordinary patio into an attractive gathering spot for family and friends? Build this handsome grill and table combo and watch the crowd ock around like birds at a feeder. This grill island design easily adapts to the size of grill you want, then surrounds it with ample counter surface to hold food, spices and pans. Under the grill, theres plenty of space to hold the 5-gallon propane canister and the barbecue tools. For dining, the tabletop features a 14-in. overhang on two sides to comfortably seat four adults.And underneath the tabletop is added storage, perfect for a cooler or
64
island
by Kurt Lawton
65
Barbecue island
9" 28" 29" 11" 311/2" 22"
Tools and materials

371/2" D C 77"
B F G
B A
311
/2"
29"
E
G F E J
6" 371/2"
C A
28"
J
11"
D
29"
H
311/2" 23"
22" 371/2" 23" H 11" 29" 28"
9"
Figure A Framing details
In addition to carpentry tools, youll need masonry and tile tools (see photos). The only special tools you need are a diamond wet saw to cut tile ($45 per day to rent), plus a 4-1/2 in. grinder ($60) or circular saw with a diamondgrit blade ($30) to cut the stone.All the tools are available at home centers. This is an expensive project.We spent $1,500 on wood, stone, tile and other materials, and $2,210 on a mid-level stainless steel grill and two stainless steel doors.While the price may seem a bit steep, youd pay three to four times that total or more for a custom-built grill island. With all the materials on hand, plan to spend three weekends on the project.
12" x 12" SLATE TILE
MORTAR WATERPROOF MEMBRANE
3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD (2 LAYERS)
1/2" CEMENT BOARD
MESH TAPE
VENT
TREATED 2x4 FRAME 1/2" CEMENT BOARD
MESH TAPE
3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD BASE
TREATED 2x4 BASE
Materials List
ITEM
VENEER STONE
QTY. 20 2-1/2 6 35 40 sq. ft. 16 lin. ft.
2x4 x 8' treated lumber 3/4" x 4' x 8' treated plywood 3' x 5' sheet cement board 12" x 12" slate tile
DOOR ASSEMBLY
Figure B Island details

66
Veneer stone Veneer stone corners
3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD BASE
Planning
We designed a two-level island with grill and seating room for a family of four. Its base size is approximately 2-1/2 x 6-1/2 ft., but you can easily expand it. To picture how the island will fit on your patio, tape cardboard or paper together in the size you desire and position it on the patio. To seat more people, lengthen the tabletop by 2 ft. per person. However, dont increase the overhang beyond 14 in. The exact dimensions of your plan will probably vary from ours, unless you select the exact same grill and doors (see Buyers Guide). So, your rst task is to buy the grill, trim kit and doors you want. Then adjust the frame design to t them. Remember to allow space for opening the grill hood and doors, as well as to correctly position the vent location for the grill you choose. Then resize/redesign Figure A as needed. Dont rely on the manufacturers instructions for grill and door measurements. Measure the pieces when you get them.
1
GRILL SECTION BASE
TABLE SECTION BASE DRILL AND COUNTERSINK SCREWS TREATED 2x4s
Cut treated 2x4s and plywood for the base according to the dimensions in Figure A. Predrill and countersink 2-1/2 in. deck screws through the long sides and into the ends of the cross braces. Then apply a generous bead of construction adhesive.
Lay 3/4-in. treated plywood on top of the 2x4 base and make all edges flush. Drive 1-5/8 in. exterior screws every 8 in. along the 2x4s.
TIP
1-5/8" SCREWS EVERY 8"
Choosing tile and stone

Select a surface for the grill surround and tabletop that can handle food stains and weathering. Stone or tile is best because its durable and requires little maintenance. Granite is the best stone choice because its naturally resistant to heat and stains, plus its smooth, easy to clean and very durablebut it is expensive. We chose slate because the rustic look t our patio. The drawback to slate is that the surface is a little uneven, and it must be sealed to resist stains. Glazed or unglazed tile is also acceptable for outdoor countertops; just check with the supplier or manufacturer to determine if sealants are needed.And in cold climates, frostproof tiles are best. For the sides of the island, buy natural thin-veneer stone or manufactured stone (made of concrete thats cast to
EDGES FLUSH
3
B G A
Build all 2x4 wall sections (A J, Figure A). Attach back wall pieces A and B to the base and to each other with 2-1/2 in. deck screws driven every 8 in.
2-1/2" DECK SCREWS
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Barbecue island
look like real rock). The natural stone will cost approximately 25 percent more than the concrete type,and its also heavier, which adds a little more challenge when you apply it. Both are available in a variety of styles. Buy the type that best ts with your countertop and patio. To determine the quantity of veneer stone youll need, calculate the square footage of the walls and add 10 percent. Youll also need to know the total length of all corners on your island, because you order corner pieces separately. For our island, we used approximately 40 sq. ft. of thin-veneer stone and about 14 linear feet of corners.
CAUTION:
Since wood is ammable, check the grill instructions for safety guidelines, and ask a local building inspector to approve your plan.
Screw in the end walls (C and G), then add the middle partitions (D, E and F), making sure theyre square to the long side. Attach all to the base and to each other.
WERE SQUARE D
Install front pieces H and J and secure with screws. Square all panels, adding temporary braces if needed.
CLEAT L
Start with the base frame

For this island, we crafted a sturdy base frame out of treated 2x4s and 3/4-in. treated plywood, and we protected our wood framework by fully encasing the grill enclosure with 1/2-in. cement board. Assemble your island on a solid foundation: Either pour a 4-in. thick concrete pad for it or position it on a solid patio like we did. (See Replace a Concrete Pad, May 99, p. 87. To order a copy, see p. 7.) Its heavy. Once you build it, its almost impossible to move. To assemble the base, position the cross members directly underneath the wall components, which youll screw down into them (Figure B and Photo 1). Then glue and screw on the plywood top (Photos 1 and 2). Next, nail or screw together all the wall sections (A J, Figure A). These sections are designed as individual componentsa taller table section and a shorter grill sectionso you can easily build them in your shop or garage and then assemble them on the patio. And, you can easily customize specic pieces
J 1/2" CEMENT BOARD
Measure all walls and cut 3 x 5-ft. cement boards to fit. Score boards on both sides with a carbide-tipped cutting tool and simply snap apart.
1/2" CEMENT BOARD CARBIDE CUTTING TOOL
SCORE ON BOTH SIDES
DRYWALL T-SQUARE
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Barbecue island
to fit the doors and grill you buy. Be sure to account for the 1/2-in. cement board layer when adjusting the grill area dimensions. Attach the back sections rst (Photo 3), followed by the side walls and middle sections (Photo 4), and nally the front two sections (Photo 5). Attach wall sections to each other with 2-1/2 in. deck screws. Make sure all the walls are square before adding the cement board. To complete the sidewall framework, screw cement board to the outside walls of the island frame, as well as to the entire inside of the grill enclosure (Photo 7). Pick up a box of special 1-1/4 in. cement board screws when you buy the cement board. Keep the cement board 1/2 in. above the patio surface, and maintain tight corners and joints. We used a carbide cutting tool (see Photo 6 and the Buyers Guide) to score and snap clean, straight edges on the cement board. But you can get by with a utility knife.
7
AIR VENT 1-1/4" CEMENT BOARD SCREWS
Screw cement board on all exterior wall surfaces with special 1-1/4 in. cement board screws spaced about every 8 in. Also encase the interior of the grill area with cement board so no wood is exposed.
GRILL ENCLOSURE SECTION
8
14" OVERHANG 3/4" TREATED PLYWOOD CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE 2" OVERHANG
14" OVERHANG
2" OVERHANG
Cut both 3/4-in. treated plywood tabletop pieces. Position the first sheet and fasten it with 1-5/8 in. exterior screws. Then add adhesive and screw down the second sheet flush with the first.
Add the tabletop and the cement board

To achieve a solid tabletop for the slate tilestiff enough to support a 14-in. overhang on two sidesscrew down one 3/4-in. piece of treated plywood (4 x 4 ft.), add construction adhesive, then screw a second piece to it (Photo 8).Add 2-1/2 in. strips of cement board to all sides, then top it off with a layer of 1/2-in. cement board. Follow the same procedure for the grill area. Be sure to cover the edges along the grill opening with cement board as well (Photo 9). Check to see if the unit is level and add composite wood shims under a corner to shore it up (Photo 9). Odds are good your island slopes slightly, since patios are built to slope. Once the unit is level, shove in additional shims along the base for more even support. Next, tape all cement board joints with berglass mesh tape (Photo 8). Mix a batch of thin-set mortar and acrylic mortar additive (per directions).
FIBERGLASS TAPE ALL JOINTS
9
LATEXFORTIFIED THIN-SET MORTAR
Cut cement board and screw it onto the tabletop and edges, and to the grill surround top and edges. Lay cement board fiberglass tape over all joints, then spread thinset mortar over the top. Let dry. Then check for level and add shims every 12 in. around the perimeter of the base as necessary.
COMPOSITE WOOD SHIMS
71
Barbecue island
10
Brush a special waterproofing compound on the table and grill surround top. After it dries, lay out the tile pattern so the edges of the tile overhang the top by the thickness of the tile. Draw guidelines, then cut the tile to fit your pattern. Remove the tile, spread thin-set mortar and comb it with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Then set the top tile. Make sure the overhangs are even.
LAY OUT TILE BEFORE THIN-SET
12" SLATE TILE
Trowel on a thin coat over the tape, lling the joints. After the mortar dries,brush on a special waterproong compound (called a membrane) over the tops (Photo 10). Itll keep water from reaching the wood frame. This special compound is available only through tile specialty shops.
TILE OVERHANGS EDGE
Lay the tile

WATERPROOFING COMPOUND
11
1/4" SQUARE NOTCHED TROWEL
THINSET
OOPS! LATE ADJUSTMENT FOR GRILL
12
Cut the tile for table edge, then add a pair of masking tape strips as shown. Apply thin-set to each edge piece and press onto table edge. Loop tape up and over it to hold each piece securely until the mortar sets.
If you plan the tile layout well in advance, you can adjust the plywood top size for the best-looking fit. We made our nished tabletop 48 in. square (46-in. square plywood) and used 12-in. tile to keep cuts to a minimum. We made only four cuts for the whole top to create the diamond pattern in the center. The cutoffs exactly t the corners ( Photo 11 ). Youll need a diamond blade saw for clean cuts. Cut and lay out your entire tabletop tile pattern before setting it (Photo 10). The rustic slate tile we used (see the Buyers Guide) doesnt require exact spacing, so we could eyeball the tile placement instead of using spacers. Complete the tile layout, then remove it and mix up a batch of thin-set mortar with acrylic additive. Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel and set the tile (Photo 11). To hold the edge tile on the table, use masking tape looped from underneath the tile (Photo 12). Let the mortar harden overnight. For more details on setting, grouting and sealing tile, see Tile Countertops, Oct. 03, p. 34. To order a copy, see p. 7. If frost occurs in your area, use a butyl latex mortar additive because it offers better protection against water and freeze/ thaw cycles.
MASKING TAPE
TIP
1/4" NOTCHED THIN-SET
Before you apply grout, take an angle grinder and bevel off any sharp edges (Photo 13). To grout the slate tile, use a grout bag (Photo 14). Grout is forced only into the joints, rather than being spread over the entire surface. This greatly eases cleanup.
72
Barbecue island
ANGLE GRINDER
13
Grind off sharp tile edges with 80-grit silicone carbide sandpaper, then finish it with 120-grit sandpaper.
BEVELED EDGE
14
Squeeze grout from the bag with enough force to push it down between the tiles. Let it dry until it doesnt stick to your finger, then push it into the joint with a trowel. Scrape off the excess.
Use a grout mortar mixed with acrylic or butyl latex additive, and mix it to the consistency of pudding so it will ow through the bag. Cut the grout bag opening slightly smaller than the joint, then force the grout into the joint so it lls from the bottom up. Once the grout stiffens to the point that you cannot see a thumbprint (15 to 30 minutes), press it into the joint with a margin trowel. Let it dry 20 more minutes, then cut the excess off the surface with the edge of the trowel. Clean the surface of the tile with a sponge and water. Finally, after the grout has dried for about a week, apply a sealer thats appropriate for the tile you select.Ask your tile retailer for the best product.
Install the grill and doors, then the stone facing

GROUT BAG
FORCE INTO BOTTOM OF JOINT
15
Install the stainless steel doors, then start the first stone layer with a corner piece. Butter it with mortar and press it into place with a wiggle. Use shims underneath the stone to hold it about 1/2 in. above the patio.
MASONS TROWEL BUTTERED STONE CARDBOARD
MORTAR SHIM UNDER STONE CORNER PIECE
Before you begin the stonework, attach both the grill and the doors. Be sure to hold the stone up next to the doors as a thickness gauge to ensure they will open without binding. Next, grab several dozen stones from the open boxes and lay them on the patio to give yourself a wide variety of size and color choices. Mix up a gallon of mortar using one part Type M or N mortar w ith one part washed or masonry sand. Mix the dry ingredients rst, then add enough water so the mix is the consistency of soft mud and will hold a ball shape. Lay cardboard at the base of the wall to prevent mortar drips from staining your patio. Start with a corner piece and butter its backside with an evenly spread layer of mortar, 1/2 to 3/4 in. thick. Push it into place with a wiggle (Photo 15). Working from the corners to the middle, add stones row by row from the bottom up, maintaining a 3/8-in. to 1/2-in. gap between stones and between rows (Photo 16). Cut as few stones as possible, because cut edges look less natural and cutting slows the process. Always dry-fit the next two to three stones ahead. Use
74
Barbecue island
16
Work from corners to the middle, staggering vertical joints between rows of stone. Cut stone using a circular saw or angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade.
3/8" TO 1/2" SPACING FOR GROUT LEAVE SPACE FOR DOOR TO OPEN
BUTTERED STONE
DIAMOND-TIPPED MASONRY BLADE
17
Support rows with small stones placed in horizontal joints. If a stone slips, you can drive a temporary screw underneath it. Finish by adding grout with a grout bag (Photo 14).
USE SMALL STONES FOR SUPPORT
stone chips to support the spacing between rows (Photo 17). Once the stones have set for 24 hours, its time to grout. Mix one part Type M mortar (not Portland cement) and three parts washed or masonry sand, adding enough water for a mashed potato consistency so it ows when you squeeze the grout bag rmly (without the metal tip). If the grout drips onto the stone face, dont remove it until it stiffens. Otherwise, itll leave a smear thats difficult to remove. Once the grout stiffens to the point that you cannot see a thumbprint (15 to 60 minutes), rake the excess grout back about 1/2 in. from the face of the stone with a 3/8-in. wide trowel. Then brush away any loose remaining mortar with a paint brush. For more specic details on setting stone, see Wood and Stone Deck, July/Aug. 01, p. 50. To order a copy, see p. 7. All you need now is a canister of propane to re up the gas grill so you can enjoy the meat and vegetables of your labor.
Buyers Guide
You can purchase a grill, trim kit and doors just like ours by going to www.ducane.com to nd a retailer near you, or call (800) 382-2637. The grill is a Ducane Stainless Series, model 7200R (rotisserie), plus trim kit to match. The doors are No. 7200 (under the grill), and No. 7100 (under the table). Our 12-in. slate tile is called California Gold and can be found at many specialty tile shops. The thin-veneer natural stone we used is called Fond du Lac Country Squire Ledgestone. Find a retailer near you by visiting www.buechelstone.com or call (800) 236-4474. The cement board scoring knife ($8) we bought at Home Depot (SKU 290432, also QEP10015) is made by QEP Tiling Systems, www.qep.com, (800) 777-8665. The waterproong membrane we used is called Redgard, www.custombuildingproducts.com, (800) 272-8786
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER and HOPE FAY Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations DON MANNES Project Design KURT LAWTON and JON JENSEN Consultants DUCANE GAS GRILLS; BEN MARTINEZ, MASONRY; DEAN SOREM, TILE; BROCK WHITE CO., STONE
76
A Classic
70
Pergola
by David Radtke
Create this low-maintenance outdoor retreat with treated lumber, composite columns and simple framing techniques
eres a summer project designed to keep you cooler on even the hottest of days. The classical columns support an overhead wooden lattice that works like a big shade tree, letting only a portion of the suns radiance shine through. What looks like the toughest part of this project is actually the easiest the graceful, solid-looking columns. Theyre not wood at all but a hollowcore composite material with amazing structural strength and durability. Weve designed the project so you simply slip these columns over treated 4x4 posts embedded in concrete. When screwed to the wooden posts, these columns provide a stable, solid base for the overhead lattice framework. These paintable precast columns are available by special order at home centers. They come in a wide variety of diameters and heights and architectural styles. Expect to pay about $200 or more for each column. See the Buyers Guide on p. 86. Pressure-treated dimensional 2x8s and 2x10s make up the majority of the upper framework, and the decorative end pieces are cut with a jigsaw from our pattern. The whole project can be built in a couple of weekends, with another weekend for staining and painting. Youll spend about $2,400, including the cost of the columns. We built our pergola over an existing stone patio; that saved a lot of patio work. If youre planning to install a patio as part of your overall project, youll need to allow extra time. For a list of articles about installing your own paver patio, see For More Information, p. 86. More PERGOLA
71
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2002
A Classic Pergola
FIG. A
3/4" 15-1/4"
PERGOLA DETAILS
1/4" ROUND-OVER (ALL ROOF SLATS)
EACH SQ.=2"
J E
F1 TAIL PATTERN L2 K J LI LI
F2
F1 M C
CAPITAL 1/2" x 6" PVC PIPE AND 90 FITTING
E M
COLUMN SHAFT
F2
ANGLE BRACKET
7-1/4" BASE
E G
F1
CAPITAL
A D
P
COLUMN SHAFT C L 90-7/8" BETWEEN POST CENTERS C L
3" NO. 12 WOOD SCREW
B
90-7/8" BETWEEN POST CENTERS 6-1/4" DIA. (TOP OF COLUMN SHAFT) 91-3/4" C L 32"
E K F1
15-1/4"
F2 H
COLUMN SHAFT
3/4" DIA. HOLE FOR PVC PIPE
F1
139-1/4" 145-1/2" OVERALL BASE
SPACE SLATS EVENLY
D C
9 SPACES 16" O.C. (144")
L2 LI E
15-1/4" 188" OVERALL ANGLE BRACKET
PATIO BLOCK
P BEAM AND RAFTER LAYOUT

CONCRETE FOOTING
72
A Classic Pergola
Shopping List
ITEM
Pressure-treated 4x4 x 10' posts Pressure-treated 1x4 x 8' post wraps Pressure-treated 1x4 x 8' fascia Composite polymer columns with bases and capitals Pressure-treated 2x10 x 16' (E) Pressure-treated 2x10 x 14' (F1) Pressure-treated 2x10 x 12' (F2) Pressure-treated 2x10 x 10' (decorative tails) Pressure-treated 1x6 x 12' ledger strips (G), ripped to width Pressure-treated 2x8 x 8' rafters Pressure-treated 5/4 x 6 x 10' decking ripped to 3" (tail tops) Pressure-treated 5/4 x 6 x 14' decking ripped to 3" (lattice) Pressure-treated 2x4 x 10', ripped to 2-1/4" for subbase 60-lb. bags of dry mix concrete Concrete forming tubes (2' lengths) Construction adhesive 3" exterior screws (zinc plated) No. 12 size for posts 3" deck screws 2-1/2" deck screws 1/2" PVC pipe 90-degree 1/2" PVC elbows Stain and paint of your choice Auto body ller Simpson A21 steel angle 6
QTY.
3 8 7 6 2 2 1 4 2 16 8 9 3 30 6 2 tubes 48 5-lb. box 5-lb. box 6' 6
MEASURE the projection of your soffits and add 7 in. to accurately position the column centers near but not too close to the house. Drive remote stakes an equal distance from the house, attaching a string to help mark and align the outer post locations. (See text on p. 76 for more layout details.)
Choosing the right location
Cutting List
KEY
A B C D E F1 F2 G H J K L1 L2 M N P
PCS.
6 24 6 12 2 2 1 4 16 23 23 8 1 4 18 24
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 56" treated posts 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 32" treated post shims 7-1/2" x 96" round columns 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" round discs (column inserts) 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" x 185" front and back beams 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" x 145-1/2" side beams 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" x 142-1/2" center beam 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 142-1/2" ledger strips 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" x 91-3/4" at rafters 1-1/16" x 3" x 33" tail tops 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" x 17" decorative tails 1-1/16" x 3" x 153" lattice strips 1-1/16" x 3" x 134" center lattice strips* 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 91-3/4" fascia strips* 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 14-1/2" fascia strips 1-1/2" x 2-1/4" x 12-1/4" subbase (under molded base)
Because this project is made to stand independent of the house, you can either locate it right near your house as we did or let it stand alone in the garden. You can also consider using wood chips or gravel as a oor or even pour a concrete slab underneath. By keeping it unattached (about 4 in. from the eaves), you dont have to deal with moving existing gutters or matching eaves. You also dont have to mess with frost footings (in colder climates). However, if you have clay soil, its best to dig to frost depth (if greater than 24 in.) for your footings to prevent frost heave. Our existing patio was built over a sand and compacted gravel base, so we removed only the stones necessary to dig the 12-in. diameter holes to secure the posts. Youll most likely have a different situation. If youll be adding a patio later, be sure to pour all the footings at the nished patio height. Keep in
4x4 TREATED POST
ALIGNMENT STRING FORMING TUBE
12" DIA. CONCRETE FOOTING
DIG the postholes a minimum of 2 ft. deep and 12 in. in diameter. Dig 24-in. tubes into the holes, add your 60-in. posts and pour concrete around them. Plumb your posts and align them with your outer string line. Allow the concrete to harden for a couple of days, then trim the posts to 32 in.
mind any slope youll include in the patio. Most patios slope about 1/8 in. per foot to drain. More PERGOLA
* Cut to t
73
A Classic Pergola
COLUMN HEIGHT
Plan the post location to clear the eaves

HOLLOW COMPOSITE COLUMN
10-1/2"
STORY POLE
COLUMN TOP
COLUMN BOTTOM
LIFT the columns (upside down) over the 4x4 posts to mark the bottoms for trimming. Attach a story pole to the house to establish a reference point.
If you plan to build your pergola close to the house, rst measure the projection of your eaves as shown in Photo 1. Keep the center of the posts nearest the house at least 7 in. farther from the house than this measurement. To keep the posts in alignment, stake your post locations using remote stakes with a string. With the stakes driven beyond the work area (Photo 2), youll be able to undo the string while you dig and then reattach it later to check for alignment. To check for left-to-right placement parallel to the house, just measure the distance from one of the remote stakes and write this measurement on a note pad. To make sure the layout is square, adjust the diagonal measurements of the postholes so theyre equal. As you dig your holes, put the soil in a wheelbarrow and nd a place to relocate it away from your site. Save any gravel or sand to reinstall pavers. Note: You may need to move a post slightly. We shifted one post near the house to create an entry along the steps.
Have your concrete delivered
STRAIGHT BOARD TO EXTEND LEVEL
SOFT MULCH BAGS COMBINATION SQUARE
ATTACH a level to a straight 2x4 and mark the bottom of each post level with your height mark against the house. Remember, theres still 10-1/4 in. additional height going onto the tops of the posts.
5
76
TRANSFER your mark completely around the post using a combination square. Cut the post with a 10-teeth-per-inch wood blade in your jigsaw. Youll need a fresh blade for every post you cut.
Before you dig any holes, call your local utilities to mark any buried cable or gas lines. Once youre sure there are no buried utilities in the area, dig your holes with a hand-held posthole digger or rent a power auger. Youll also need a shovel to widen the hole. Dig until its at least 24 in. deep. Reconnect your layout string to make sure the holes are aligned. Cut your forming tubes (Photo 2) and insert them into the holes. Level the tops of the forming tubes until theyre ush with the patio surface. If you mix the concrete on More PERGOLA
A Classic Pergola
SCREW AS HANDLE
APPLY ADHESIVE ON EDGES
COLUMN TOP 3"
PREDRILLED AND COUNTERSUNK PILOT HOLE
2" DECK SCREWS
CUT 5-1/2 in. round treated wood plugs to fit the inside of your columns. Glue and screw together a pair for each column top, then glue the plugs flush into the top of each column. Secure the plugs to the columns with 2-in. deck screws. Note: Drive a screw into the top of each plug to use as a handle to position the plug.
site, youll need about ve bags of Quikrete or Sakrete concrete mix per hole, for a total of 30 bags. (Thats enough to have your home center or lumberyard deliver it to the site. If you call for a ready-mixed delivery, ask for 1/2 cubic yard.) As you set your posts, reposition your string line about 1-3/4 in. to allow for the post thickness and then align the posts with your string line (Photo 2) as you pour in the concrete. Note: If you have a post thats 1/2 in. out of whack, dont sweat it. Youll be able to align the tops of the columns later when you install the overhead beam. Once the posts are embedded in concrete, let the concrete harden for a minimum of two days.
Cut the columns to length and fasten them to the posts
SCREW 1x4 treated pine to the side of each 4x4. This will beef up the post so it meets the inside edge of the hollow column.
4x4 TREATED POST 1x4 SHIMS
3" NO. 12 SCREWS
PREDRILL and countersink eight screw holes in the sides of the columns: four 6 in. from the bottom and four 30 in. from the bottom. Use 3-in. No. 12 exterior wood screws to anchor the columns to the wood posts. Plumb the column as you screw it to the post. Youll notice some play between the post and column. Opposing screws will tighten the entire assembly.
We wanted the roof of the pergola to align with the fascia of the house for a custom, uid look. To keep the roof
of the pergola even and level across the whole topside, youll need to cut each post exactly. Just clamp or nail a board temporarily to the fascia as shown in Photo 4. Measure down
78
10-1/2 in. from the top of your fascia board for the cutoff height of your columns (95 in. for ours). More PERGOLA
A Classic Pergola
To make sure we cut the bottom only (we didnt want to have to wait another two weeks for a new column), we ipped the columns end for end, slipped them over the posts and marked the bottoms of each column and numbered them as well. Note: To make cutting the columns easier, lay them on sand bags or mulch bags to keep them from rolling or vibrating as you cut. Transfer your length mark completely around the column base with a combination square thats set from the bottom of the post. I found the jigsaw a lot safer, quieter and less dusty than a circular saw. This composite polymer is only about 1/2 in. thick but pretty hard, so expect to eat up a new blade on each column. Once youve cut each column, fatten the posts with 1x4s as shown in Photo 7. Predrill each column with a combination pilot and countersink bit (three holes 6 in. from the bottom and another three 30 in. from the bottom). Also drill four evenly spaced holes 1-1/4 in. from the top of each column to secure the plugs (Photo 6). Now slip each column over its post. Strap a level near the base of each column (the column begins to taper slightly after 32 in. from the bottom) and screw into the wood beneath. Tighten or loosen opposing pairs to plumb up each column. Next, slip the molded base over the top of the column and then slip the capital on as well. Its best not to fasten these in place until the project is nearly completed.
Fasten the beams to the top of the columns
CAPITAL
BASE SLIPPED OVER COLUMN
SLIDE the column bases and capitals over the column shafts. Measure and cut the outer 2x10 beam and walk it up the ladders.
SIMPSON A21 STEEL ANGLE E LEDGER STRIP
SLIP CAPITAL OVER TOP FIRST
SCREW the beam (E) to the wood plug so its flush with the front outside edge of the column. Use angle brackets as shown with 1-1/4 in. Simpson bracket screws. Screw the other beam in place and then the other three intermediate beams, F1 and F2.
10
11
80
SCREW a treated wood 1x2 7-1/4 in. down from the top of each of the 2x10 beams running out from the house. These will act as ledgers for the 2x8 flat rafters.
Measure the length of the front and back 2x10 beams (E), making them 3 in. less than the outside of the column tops, and cut them to length. Note: If you have a column that wont quite straighten up, you can
A Classic Pergola
have someone push it straight up and down and then fasten it in place with the steel brackets from above. Next, measure and cut the side beams (F1) and screw them to the ends of the front beams. Now cut the center beam (F2) 3 in. shorter than the side beams and fasten it to the posts and the front and back beams (E) with 3-in. deck screws.
Slip the at rafters onto ledgers
SET the 2x8 flat rafters onto the ledgers (hold them perfectly vertical) and screw each end to the 2x10 beams with three 3-in. deck screws.
12
LEDGER STRIP
DRIVE screws at an angle to fasten opposing 2x8 flat rafters. Use three 3-in. screws per end.
13
Once all the 2x10 beams are in place, cut your 1x2 ledgers and screw them 1/2 in. up from the bottom of each beam F1 and F2 with 2-in. deck screws every 8 in. Now measure each 2x8 at rafter (referred to as at because they have no pitch) and cut it to length. Ideally these should all be the same length, but if you had problems with your post positioning earlier, you may have to adjust them. Mark 16-in. centers along the beams F1 and F2. Rest each rafter on the ledgers (Photo 12) and screw them in place one at a time from the backside of each beam, aligning them with your marks. Where the rafters meet the center beam (F2), angle the 3-in. deck screws through the beam and into the rafter (Photo 13). When youve nished the rafters, secure each capital to the underside of the beams with 2-1/2 in. deck screws (Photo 14). Predrill the capitals.
Preassemble the rafter tails
PUSH the resin-cast capitals flush with the bottom of the 2x10 beams and screw them into place with 2-1/2 in. deck screws.
14 15
82
CUT the decorative rafter tails from treated 2x10 pine. To avoid cupping, choose knot-free boards and keep them out of the sun until you paint or stain them.
Cut the decorative rafter tails (J) using the grid template shown in Fig. A. For consistency, mark your rst one as the pattern and trace this piece each time. Sand the gentle curves with a belt sander or portable drum sander. Now cut the tail tops (K) from 5/4 decking. Round over the cut ends with a hand plane or a router (Photo 17). Ease the edges of the tails and the tops with 100-grit sandpaper
A Classic Pergola
J
F1
and then apply a solid-color stain. Make sure the treated wood pieces are dry to the touch before you prestain them. If they feel cool, let them dry in a shady spot for two days before applying the solid-color stain. Rushing the process could cause the stain to blister or roll off. Once the stain is dry, screw the tops to the tails with 2-1/2 in. deck screws (allow the top to overhang 3/4 in.) and fasten them over the tops of each at rafter and beam end as shown in Photo 16 and Fig. A. Youll need to cut the tail top short on the assemblies that project from the corners and screw them in place from the backside of the front beam.
The last details
16
RIP strips of 5/4 treated decking to 3-in. widths to make parts J. Align and screw them to K and to the top of each 2x8 flat rafter. Then screw K in place from the backside of F1.
Cut and nail (8d galvanized nish nails) the 1x4 fascia strips (M) ush to the top of the beams and in
84
RAFTER TAIL CORNER DETAIL
between each pair of tails (Photo 20). Next, screw the lattice strips across the rafter tops, letting them project 3 in. past the fascia. Now cut the subbase pieces from treated 2x4. Screw the corners together with 3-in. deck screws. If you havent already done so, t the patio stones back against the footings and glue the subbase to the patio surface. Then screw the molded base to the subbase and caulk the seams with acrylic caulk. Before you paint the columns, mix auto body ller and spread it over the screw holes along the column (Photo 19). Let the ller dry and then sand it ush. Prime the columns, and then paint them with a good-quality exterior trim paint. Dont use paint on the rest of the pergola; instead roll and brush the wood portions with solid-color stain.
COLUMN TOP VENT HOLE LATTICE STRIPS
RIP 5/4 decking 3 in. wide and rout a 1/4-in. round-over on each edge to make the lattice strips.
17
18 19
DRILL 3/4-in. holes and insert 6-in. long 1/2-in. PVC pieces with 90-degree fittings attached. These little pipes act as ventilators to help slough off any excess moisture that may get into the columns.
HARDENER
PLASTIC SQUEEGEE
FILL the pilot holes and screwheads on each column with auto body fiberglass filler. Let the filler harden, then sand the areas flush. Now youre ready to paint.
RESIN
More PERGOLA
AUTO BODY FILLER
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2002
85
A Classic Pergola
SCREW the 5/4 lattice strips to the tops of the rafters. Evenly space them across each section. Add more if youd like to increase the shade below.
LATTICE STRIPS
20
Buyers Guide
You can nd a supplier in your area for composite polymer columns by calling HB & G at (800) 264-4424 or visiting www.hbgcolumns.com.

I I
Stone Path, March 01, p. 38. Brick and Stone Patio, April 00, p. 34. Raised Stone Patio, June 99, p. 30.
1x4 FASCIA STRIPS (M)
For information on how to order back issues, copies of articles or the Five-Year Index, see p. 124.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration GENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
86
Still the
Workben
Back by popular demand, its easy to build and easily customized to fit your workshop. by Mac Wentz
best
This workbench was first featured in 1993, and back then we dubbed it The Best Workbench. Now that weve used it daily for almost four yearsand heard lots of praise from readers who built their owneven the skeptics among us agree that it deserves that title. Our workbench no longer looks as perfect as it used to: Paint spills and power tools have left their marks, but the workbench and all its handy features are as useful as ever.
Deep Storage
LAZY SUSAN
Peg-Board
Extension
TABLE
SLIDERS
Power tool
DROP-IN
nch
PEGS ADJUST HEIGHT

Doors and Table saw
REMOVABLE TOP IN PLACE
DRAWERS
ROLL-AROUND
BENCH ACTS AS OUTFEED TABLE
T H E FA M I LY H A N DYM A N
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
63
1
Still the best
Workbench
So for those of you who didnt see it the first time, here it is again. And for those of you who did see itbut havent gotten around to building it yetweve included a few optional changes to the original design (see What Wed Change, p. 67).
PLANNING YOUR WORKBENCH
YOUR PLAN BENCH FEATURE IDENTIFIER
MARK the positions of the legs and any bench features on the long 2x4s youll use to make the frames for the workbench. To assemble the frames, just screw 27-in. 2x4s to the ends of the long 2x4s.
LEG POSITION
CLAMP
If this workbench looks too complex for you to build, take a moment to study the photos and illustrations and youll see how simple it really is. Intermediate-level DIY skills and ASSEMBLE the legs by common tools (a circular saw, jigsaw sandwiching 2x4s between and drill) are all it takes. pieces of 1/2-in. plywood. All the materials you need are Tip: By cutting a 4x8 sheet available at home centers. To build a of plywood exactly in half lengthwise, and then workbench similar to ours, expect to cutting the half-sheets into spend from $300 to $500 (see Price thirds, youll get six pieces Guide, p. 75). If you include all the of plywood slightly smaller features we show, plan to spend three than 24 in. x 32 in.just right for building the legs. or four (enjoyable) weekends on this project. Our intention here is not to FIG. A THE BASIC show you how to build a workTOP IS 2 SHEETS WORKBENCH OF 1/2" PLYWOOD bench just like ours, but how GLUED TOGETHER AND to use our modular design to 29" SCREWED TO FRAME build a bench just right for BENCH TOP HAS you. And that will take some 2" OVERHANG careful planning on your ON FRONT 7/8" HOLE AND SIDES FOR CONDUIT part. So resist the urge to 27" start building right away, and spend some time with this article and a sketch pad first. 1/2" CONDUIT
ASSEMBLED FRAMES
ASSEMBLED LEGS
2-1/2" DRYWALL SCREWS ROUND EXPOSED CORNERS TACK BOTTOM SHEET TO FRAME BEFORE GLUING
BUILDING THE BASIC FRAME

Fig. A and Photos 1 through 4 show how to assemble the
ABOUT 24"
METAL OUTLET BOX
basic workbench unit, the structure that supports everything else. This is the fastest, easiest part of the projectyou can assemble it all in one day, even if youre building a large workbench. Here are some tips to help you along: I Buy the straightest 2x4s you can
64
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7 T H E F A M I LY H A N DYM A N
2x4 ABOUT 32" 54" MAX. BETWEEN LEGS 2x4
FACTORY-CUT EDGE 3" DRYWALL SCREWS
2" TOE SPACE
3" DRYWALL SCREWS
3
Still the best
Workbench
find and build the frames (Photo 3) from 2x4s that are as long as the bench, so you dont have to splice them together. Most home centers carry 2x4s up to 16 ft. long. I When driving screws near the ends of 2x4s, predrill 1/8-in. holes to avoid splitting. I To make straight cuts in plywood, clamp a straight 2x4 to the sheet and hold your saws shoe (the metal base the saw rests on) against the 2x4 as you cut. Measure the distance from the edge of the blade to the edge of the shoe, and clamp your guide board that same distance from the line you want to cut.
ATTACHING THE BENCH TOP
LAY the frames on the floor and screw the legs into position from one side. Then roll the frame over and do the other side. Remember to leave a 2-in. toe space at the bottom of the frames. Finally, stand the bench upright so you can attach the plywood back.
The bench top is two layers of 1/2-in. plywood glued together (Fig. A). Use BC plywood (which has one
smooth side) for the top layer and rougher, CDX plywood for the bottom layer. First, tack the bottom layer into place with a few nails and spread wood glue over the plywoodlay it on especially thick around the edges. Then add the top piece, driving
screws through both layers and into the frame. Screw 2x4 filler blocks to the frame wherever two sections of bench top meet. Note: For easier access to the inside of the bench, install the top after features like shelves or lazy Susans are finished.
66
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
T H E F A M I LY H A N DYM A N
4
What wed change
Those of us who use this workbench agree on only one
BACK
FACTORY CUT EDGES
SCREW the plywood back to the legs, using the factory-cut edges (which are perfectly perpendicular) to square up the bench. You can cut the backs from full sheets of plywood, or you can save on materials by using the scraps left over from cutting the 29-in. wide bench-top pieces.
thing: Its not big enough. (No workbench is big enough!) We have other suggestions, but none we can all agree on. So here are some of those suggestions you be the judge: I In the original article, we said the bench top should reach the middle of the users hip. Those of us with bad backs prefer a bench thats waist-high. I The neat freaks would like doors over all the storage spaces and 2-in. strips of plywood that cover the gaps at the toe space. That way, sawdust wouldnt gather in the drawers and under the workbench. The slobs say that doors would make getting into the drawers a hassle. And who cares whats under the workbench anyway? I Using one layer of 3/4-in. plywood, instead of two 1/2-in. layers, would make building the bench top a lot easier and a bit cheaper. I Using 1/4-in. hardboard, instead of 1/2-in. plywood, for the legs and back of the bench could cut costs substantially. But moisture can make hardboard swell, so its not ideal for damp basements or musty garages.
T H E FA M I LY H A N DYM A N
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
67
5
Deep Storage
3/4" PLYWOOD
LAZY SUSAN
m
7
Making the most of corner space by installing lazy Susans is the trickiest part of this workbench (Fig. B and Photos 5 through 8). You have to set back the legs on one section of the bench, bolt adjoining frames together, cut circles and carefully align all the parts. Expect to spend a whole day making two lazy Susan shelves.
PEG-BOARD TRAMMEL
CENTER MARK
20"
MARK CUTOUT WITH PENCIL
DRAW one 24-in. and one 40-in. circle for each lazy Susan, using a Peg-Board trammel screwed to the plywood. Its OK if the circles overlap slightly (in one place only), since youll later cut a section out of each circle. After you cut out the circles with a jigsaw, drill a small center hole through the plywood where the screw held the trammel.
LAZY SUSAN BASE 24" CIRCLE
8
CUT OUT
24" CIRCLE
POSITION a 24-in. circle in the center of the L-shaped opening and mark the area to be cut outwhere the circle protrudes from the openingwith a pencil. To complete the cutout marks, flip the circle over, center the lazy Susan base on it and trace around the base. After youve cut a section out of the 24-in. circle (see Photo 7), set it on the 40-in. circle, align their centers by inserting a nail through their center holes, and use the smaller circle to mark the cutout on the large circle.
DRILL a 3/4-in. access hole through the 24-in. circle (following the instructions that come with the base) and screw the lazy Susan base to the underside of the 24-in. circle.
ACCESS HOLE
FIXED SHELF
CENTER HOLE
MOUNT the lazy Susan to the shelf, using the access hole to drive each screw through the base and into the 1/2-in. plywood. Finally, attach the 40-in. circle to the 24-in. circle, again using a nail to align the circles.
FIG. B LAZY SUSAN

EXTRA 2x4 LEG TO STABILIZE UNIT AND PLYWOOD BACK WASHER AND NUT 4" CARRIAGE BOLTS
1-1/4" DRYWALL SCREWS VINYL LANDSCAPING EDGING CUT IN HALF
CENTER MARKS AND SMALL DRILLED HOLE BUILD UPPER FRAME FROM 2x4s AND 1/2" PLYWOOD 40" CIRCLE 24" CIRCLE
AT LEAST 15" 1/2" PLYWOOD
12" LAZY SUSAN BASE DRILL ACCESS HOLE TO DRIVE SCREWS FOR LAZY SUSAN BOTH CIRCLES ARE 3/4" PLYWOOD
FIG. C DROP-IN
Power tool
t
9
DROP-IN
REMOVABLE BENCH TOP ANY OF YOUR BENCH-TOP TOOLS
The drop-in (Fig. C and Photos 9 and 10) provides a surface that can be adjusted in height. By using a different set of pegs for each of your bench-top tools, the worktable of each tool can stand level with the bench top, which makes working with long or large stock easier. When the drop-ins not in use, you can place a section of bench top over it, giving you a continuous work surface.
FILLER BLOCKS
ADJUSTABLE DROP-IN 1/2" PLYWOOD 2x4 FILLER BLOCK 2x4 ALSO USED AS TEMPLATE 1-1/4" CLOSET ROD PEG CUT TO FIT
1-3/8" HOLES DRILLED 1" DEEP
BASE SUPPORTS
THIS SECTION CUT OUT AFTER DROP-IN FRAMED 1/2" PLYWOOD SHELF
2x4 FILLER BLOCK HOLES DRILLED 1" DEEP 1x2 2x4 DROP-IN BASE 3" DRYWALL SCREW TOE-NAILED TO LEG 1x4 BALL BEARING DRAWER SLIDE
CUT HERE WITH HANDSAW TOE-SCREW DROP-IN BASE SUPPORTS
CABINET HINGE
BUILD a base for the drop-in by toescrewing 2x4 supports to the legs. Also install 2x4 filler blocks, flush with the tops of the legs. Then cut out a section of the upper frame using a handsaw and screw a 1/2-in. plywood shelf to the supports.
1/2" OR 3/4" PLYWOOD CABINET LOCK (OTHER DOOR MUST HAVE LATCH INSIDE) BUILD 1 OR 2 DRAWERS TO FIT
10
FILLER BLOCK 1-3/8" BIT
2x4 DRILLING TEMPLATE TAPE FLAG DEPTH GAUGE
DRILL four 1-3/8 in. holes in the base using templates to position the holes. Make two templates from 2x4s cut to the width of the drop-in opening, drill holes 5 in. from the ends and mark the ends left and right. To make the holes exactly 1 in. deep, attach a tape flag to the drill bit 2-1/2 in. up the shaft. Im p o rtan t: Make all the holes as perfectly vertical as you can, so the drop-in fits easily into place. When the four holes are drilled, use the templates and 1/2-in. plywood to make the drop-in. Finally, cut a set of pegs from 1-1/4 in. closet rod for each of your bench-top tools.
70
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
Doors and
DRAWERS
Drawers provide easy access to those deep storage spaces under the workbench, and the locking doors keep children from getting into paints, solvents and other dangerous stuff. Fig. C shows you how to make both. We used 22-in., full-extension, ball-bearing drawer slides (about $17 per pair). You can use less expensive slides if you like, but they should be rated to support 100 lbs. or more. And be sure to make the shelves 1 in. narrower than the opening theyll fit into (to allow space for the slides).
Peg-Board
t
11
SLIDERS
Theres never enough Peg-Board in a workshop, but sliders help by allowing you to use both sides of the Peg-Board. And making them is easy (see Fig. D).
2x4 SUPPORTS
Use 1/4-in. thick Peg-Board. The 1/8-in. stuff is too flimsy. I To make sliding sections, first cut the Peg-Board into rectangular pieces with a circular saw. Also use a circular saw to cut the front and bottom of the slider (remember to leave a 1 x 4-in. lip at the rear end). Then cut out the curved handles with a jigsaw. I Install the sliders as close together or far apart as you like, depending on the length of hooks youll want to use, and the size of the stuff you want to store.
I
1/4" PEG-BOARD
CUT the straight sides of the sliders with a circular saw. When cutting flexible material like Peg-Board, be sure to put stiff supports under it.
FIG. D
PEG-BOARD SLIDERS
1x4
1-1/4" DRYWALL SCREWS ATTACH 1x2s TO THIS 2x4 BRACE
ROUND OFF CORNERS
1x2 1/4" PEG-BOARD NOTE: CUT 1" x 4" L-SHAPED LIP ON PEG-BOARD BOTTOM
3/8" GAP
4" 1x2 RUB A BAR OF SOAP ON BOTTOM OF EACH SLIDER TO LUBRICATE IT 3/8" NOTCH
1/2" PLYWOOD 2x2 STOP
72
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
Extension
TABLE
The extension table (Fig. E) is handy when you need to get at two or three sides of a workpiece, or when you just need more space. It also makes a great outfeed table for a table saw.
Since the extension table has folding legs, you can store it in a 5-in.-high space below a drawer (see p. 62). Or you can hang it on sturdy wall hooks. The steel folding-table legs (about $20) must be extended with metal conduit to match the height of your workbench.
FIG. E EXTENSION TABLE

TWO PIECES OF 1/2" PLYWOOD GLUED TOGETHER 2" OVERHANG ON BOTH SIDES AND END WITH LEGS ROUND ALL OUTSIDE CORNERS
2-1/2" OR 3" DRYWALL SCREWS DRIVEN INTO FRAME
TACK BOTTOM PIECE TO FRAME BEFORE GLUING ATTACH LEGS TO THESE HORIZONTAL 2x4s
ALL WOOD IS 2x4
DRYWALL SCREWS
FOLDING TABLE LEGS

WORKBENCH 2" 1-1/2" EXTENSION TABLE
STEEL STRAPPING OR WASHERS QUICK-GRIP BAR CLAMP
BOLT AND NUT
1" CONDUIT CUT TO FIT
USING the extension table is simple. The tables edge rests on the lip built onto the workbench edge, with a quickclosing clamp locking it in place.
T H E FA M I LY H A N DYM A N F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
73
Table saw
ROLL-AROUND
FINISHING TOUCHES
A roll-around (Fig. F), built to a height that puts the table of your saw about 1/8 in. higher than your bench top, lets you use the bench top as a side-support or outfeed table when youre cutting large pieces. The rollaround also catches sawdust. Warn ing: Dont prevent air circulation by completely enclosing the rollaround. Airborne sawdust, ignited by a spark from the saws motor or blade, could explode.
Avoid splinters by taking a few minutes to round over all the rough edges with sandpaper. I If your floor isnt flat, shim the legs after the workbench is in place. I A couple of coats of polyurethane will make the bench top tougher and easier to clean. Paint or polyurethane will keep the rest of the workbench cleaner looking. I Mount outlets on the workbench (Photo 12) or install a surface-wired series of wall outlets (see For More Information, p. 75).
I
FIG. F ROLL-AROUND
BOLT
CUT OPENING FOR SAWDUST
1/2"PLYWOOD SAW BASE SETS IN ROLL-AROUND AND CAN BE LIFTED OUT FOR CLEANING
1x2 CLEAT LOCK WASHER AND NUT HEIGHT FROM SAW TABLE TO FLOOR SAME AS WORKBENCH PLUS 1/8"
1x2 CLEAT FITS BETWEEN 2x4s 1-1/4" DRYWALL SCREWS
2x4 FRAME YOU MUST LEAVE 6" GAP FOR AIR CIRCULATION
6"
1/2" PLYWOOD 2x4 FRAME
NON-LOCKING WHEELS IN BACK
74
F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
LOCKING WHEELS GO IN FRONT
DRYWALL IMPORTANT: ALWAYS LOCK SCREWS WHEELS WHEN USING SAW
12
7/8" HOLE FOR CONDUIT 3/4" CONDUIT METAL BOX CABLE
PROTECT all the electrical cable running to, through or behind your workbench with metal conduit and metal boxes. Flexible metal conduit with the cable already inside (known as BX) is an easier, but more expensive, alternative to rigid conduit.
Price Guide
The cost of your workbench will depend on your design. So we cant give overall estimates. But to help you make your own estimate, heres a rough price guide to the materials you might need: LUMBER 2x4 x 10 I 2x4 x 16 I 1x4 x 8
I
$3.60 $5.60 $2.50
4x8 SHEET GOODS 1/4-in. hardboard I 1/4-in. Peg-Board I 1/2-in. CDX plywood I 1/2-in. BC plywood I 3/4-in. BC plywood
I
$8 $9 $15 $18 $22
HARDWARE 12-in. lazy Susan base I 22-in. full-extension ball-bearing drawer slides I Folding table legs I Wheels for roll-around
I
$9 $17 $20 $12
For a bench similar to ours, all the screws, glue, hinges, etc. will cost around $30.

I I
I I
Install a New Outlet, April 92, p. 39. The Easiest Way to Add an Outlet, July/Aug. 96, p. 63. Surface Wiring, Sept. 95, p. 81. Solutions for a Comfortable Workshop, Nov. 95, p. 66. Woodworking Bench, March 96, p. 84.
For information on how to order back issues, copies of articles or the Five-Year Index, please see At Your Service on p. 4.
Art Direction MARCIA WILLISTON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations RON CHAMBERLAIN Workbench Design MARK THOMPSON and DAN STOFFEL T H E FA M I LY H A N DYM A N F E B R U A R Y 19 9 7
75
50
Workshop on a wall
This compact workbench gives you tons of storage with a spacious foldaway worktop
by David Radtke
ont let a lack of space keep you from building projects, doing repairs or getting into a hobby. This foldaway workbench is built for tight spaces. When its closed, you hardly know its there, but when its open, it gives you a 3 x 4-ft. worktop. You also get easy access to your tools from shelves on both sides and a double-sided pegboard door. The workbench sets up in less than a minute. All you do is pull the legs up from the recesses under the top and fasten them with the four steel braces held in place with threaded knobs. Once the legs are secured, you just release the bolt latch and lower the worktop and youre ready to work. Best of all, you dont have to be a master cabinetmaker to build it. This is an easy project designed for fast assembly, so you can spend more time doing the things you actually need a workspace for. All it requires are basic circular saw skills and the ability to drive nails and screws. The cost is reasonable too. You only need two sheets of 3/4-in. birch plywood, some hardwood boards (like maple or oak) and basic hardware. This added up to about $140 from a local home center and a hardware store. To save money, you could use BC grade fir plywood, but because its not as at and has more surface defects, its a bit harder to work with.
51
Cut everything with your circular saw

When you buy your supplies, get a thin-kerf, 40-tooth carbide blade (about $16) for your circular saw. This blade will give you clean cuts without splintering. Youll also need a store-bought rip guide for making long straight cuts lengthwise and a large Speed Square ( Photo 1 ) for precise 90-degree crosscuts. To cut the legs and struts, you can use the standard rip guide that came with your circular saw. Follow the Cutting List on p. 62 and cut all your pieces to size.
12" SPEED SQUARE
Cut the 3/4-in. plywood to the dimensions given in the Cutting List. Use a straightedge guide or table saw to cut the pieces to width, then use a large square as a guide to cut the pieces to length.
Assemble the wall cabinet

Find a flat work area to assemble the basic box (Photo 2). Glue and nail the sides to the top and bottom and then glue the hanger strip to the bottom and sides. Be sure to recess the hanger strip about 1/8 in. to make room for the hinges youll be installing later. We used a nail gun to speed up the process, but you can also nail the project together with standard 6d nish nails. If you use regular nails, drill a 3/32-in. pilot hole each time to prevent splitting. As soon as you attach the sides to the top and bottom, lay this assembly over the plywood back and nail it ush along the entire perimeter every 6 in. Hang the edge over the work area as you nail to make sure youre ushing the edges. With the back nailed in, glue and nail the middle partition (E1) into place from the top, bottom and through the back of the cabinet. Next glue and nail the xed shelves (E2) into position (Photo 3). The rst one you install can easily be nailed from both sides, but for the second shelf, youll need to carefully toenail through the middle partition into the end of the shelf. With the plywood box now assembled, glue and nail the upper and lower face frame pieces (F) to the front edge. Align the upper piece ush with the top and the lower piece flush with the underside of the fixed shelves (E2). Next measure and cut the outer face frame pieces to t snugly, then glue and nail them into place. Youll notice the center face frame piece is 1/2 in. wider than the outer pieces to accommodate the width of the bolt latch.
Glue and nail the plywood side pieces (A) to the top and bottom (B) with 1-3/4 in. finish nails every 6 in., then glue and nail the front hanger strip (C) to the bottom and sides. Lift this assembly over the back and nail through the sides, bottom and top, making sure the back is flush all around.
A 1/8" SETBACK C
B TOP
SIDE B HANGER STRIP D BACK A
Center the middle partition (E1) and glue and nail it to the top, bottom and through the back. Next, glue and nail the fixed horizontal shelves (E2) into place. Then attach the face frame pieces (F).
CENTER E1 MIDDLE PARTITION E2 F F NAIL E1 HERE
36-1/16" TO BOTTOM OF SIDE
E2
TOP
52
WORKSHOP ON A WALL
Figure A Foldaway workshop

3/16" HOLE 1-3/8" RAD. 5/16" HOLE
B F
1-3/8"
H P G E1 F
E2
FLUSH F WITH E2 ON BOTTOM
D
2" x 3" HINGES
18"
MAGNETIC CATCH
U1 T
1/4" HOLE 5/16" HOLE GRIND OR FILE RADIUS 1/8" SETBACK 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" DOOR BUTT HINGES 2-1/8" SETBACK
U2
S Q C R B
1/4" SHELF SUPPORTS
2-1/2"
J L P
1/2" HOLE (ALIGN WITH BOLT LATCH AND DRILL THROUGH) 5/8" HEX HEAD SCREW 14"
N K
L
THREADED KNOB, SEE BUYER'S GUIDE 5/16" x 2" CARRIAGE BOLT SPACER WASHER
1/4" NUT WASHER
1/4" x 1-1/2" CARRIAGE BOLT
53
1/4" BRAD POINT BIT
1-1/4" FROM FRONT
1" FROM BACK
PEGBOARD DRILL GUIDE STRIP
3" FROM BACK
HOLES 3/4" FROM BACK
Cut a strip of pegboard to use as a drill guide for making the 1/4-in. shelf pin holes 1/2 in. deep. Use a stop on the bit to prevent the bit from punching through the opposite side.
STOP COLLAR
Glue and nail the side (K) and front (L) aprons to the worktop, making sure theyre flush with the top.
Complete the wall cabinet by cutting a strip from your pegboard and masking off the holes 7 in. from each end (Photo 4 ). The tape is a visual reminder not to drill holes in those areas. Mark a top and bottom to this piece to make sure all the holes youll drill will be aligned. Tack the strip into place with small wire nails to keep it from drifting as you drill the shelf pin holes. Use a 1/4-in. brad point bit outtted with a stop collar for drilling the shelf pin holes. Ive been burned by stop collars before because they can slip and allow the bit to punch through the other side. You can easily stop this from happening by using a short section of a dowel or any piece of wood as a backer to ride against the collar and the drill chuck as shown in Photo 4.
K FRONT APRON J WORKTOP SIDE APRON K L
Select straight wood for your worktop aprons

The best way to maintain a at worktop is to select straight boards to skirt your worktop. Cut the aprons to size and glue and nail them to the 3/4-in. plywood top. Make sure the edges are ush as you nail the aprons to the sides of the top. Once the aprons are nailed to the sides, cut the legs and struts to width and length, then cut a 1-3/8 in. radius curve on the top of each leg. Set the leg inside the apron as shown in Photo 6, then mark the location for the 5/16-in. carriage bolts as shown in Figure A. Drill through the apron into the leg and then, in order, insert the carriage bolt, a washer, the leg, another washer and the nut. Now its time to make the steel leg supports. Cut your 1/8-in. x 3/4-in. steel strap into 18-in. lengths and drill a 5/16-in. hole in one end and a 3/16-in. hole in the other. Radius the ends with a le or bench grinder and be sure to ease the sharp edges with your le followed by 100-grit sandpaper. Next place a mark 14 in. from the front edge of the strut (N) and down 1 in. from the bottom edge, and screw the steel leg support to the strut (Photo 7). Its best to do this before you glue and nail the strut because its easier to get at then. Now glue and nail the strut to the front and rear apron and to the worktop. Lift the leg to a vertical
Cut a radius on the top of each leg with a jigsaw and then drill through the side into the leg. Insert the carriage bolt and place a washer between the leg and the side apron, then another washer and nut to hold the leg to the apron. Snug the nut but dont tighten it. Glue and nail the strut to the front and back aprons (Figure A).
1/16" GAP
M LEG
FRONT 5/16" x 2" CARRIAGE BOLT
STRUT
56
WORKSHOP ON A WALL
position using your Speed Square as a guide to square the leg to the worktop. Drill a 1/4-in. hole in the center line of the leg at the square position. Insert the carriage bolt into the leg and secure it with the washer and nut. Next, use a hex screw to attach the other steel support to the front edge of the leg even with the carriage bolt as shown in Photo 7. Square down to the front apron, drill a 1/4-in. hole for the front carriage bolt at this position, insert the carriage bolt and secure it with a washer and nut. You can now attach the braces with the threaded knobs. Do the same with the other side. To nish the worktop assembly, screw the three door butt hinges to the back apron as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
7
STEEL SUPPORTS
1/4" x 1-1/2" CARRIAGE BOLT

14 "
2-1/ 2"
Cut the steel supports from 1/8-in. x 3/4-in. steel. Round the edges with a file or grinder and then drill holes as shown in Figure A. Attach the supports to the strut and the front apron, making sure the leg is square to the aprons both ways.
5/8 HEX HEAD SCREW
5/8" HEX HEAD SCREW
N K
Make a hinged pegboard door for tool storage

Cut the door stile and rails (Q and R) and then nail them together with 2-in. finish nails. This frame will seem a bit imsy until you glue and nail one side of the pegboard to it. With this side fastened to the pine frame with 18-gauge wire nails, ip it over (Photo 9) and glue and nail the other pegboard piece to the other side of the frame. Now cut the hinge-mounting strip (T) to length and set it next to the pegboard assembly. To get the pegboard assembly level with the thicker mounting strip, shim it up with some pegboard scraps (let T hang 1/4 in. below the pegboard) and then face-mount the hinges with the screws provided in the package. With the mounting strip fastened to the pegboard door, align this prehung assembly with the cabinet as shown in Photo 10 and drive screws into the mounting strip through the backside of the center partition.
Screw three door hinges to the back apron, aligning the barrel of the hinge with the edge of the back apron (L) as shown.
BACK APRON
3-1/2" BUTT HINGE 3-1/2"
Mount the cabinet assembly to the wall rst

Grab a straight 2x4 about 5 ft. long to use as a temporary support while you screw the cabinet to the wall. Level the 2x4 support 35-1/2 in. above the floor (Photo 11) and screw it through the wall covering into the studs with 3-in. screws (three screws are adequate). Now transfer the stud locations to marks on the back of the wall cabinet.
S R
APPLY GLUE
Glue and nail the door stiles (Q) and rails (R) to the front and back pieces of pegboard. Let the glue set, then install the hinges on the pegboard assembly and the mounting strip (T); see Photo 10.
1" WIRE NAILS R
Q SUPPORT STILE
SUPPORT RAIL
58
2-1/8"
T TEMPORARY ALIGNMENT SHIM
MOUNTING STRIP
2 x 3" HINGE
1/4" SPACE BELOW
Drill 1/4-in. holes through the back. Then lift the cabinet into place, making sure your holes are aligned with the studs, and mark through these holes onto the wall. Set the cabinet aside and drill 3/16-in. holes into the studs at your marks. Now outfit your drill with a 7/16-in. hex driver, lift the cabinet back into place and drive the 1/4-in. x 3in. lag screws into the studs. Be sure you use at least six lag screws to fasten the cabinet to the studs. With the cabinet secured, unscrew and remove the temporary support.
10 11
Position the pegboard door assembly against the middle partition (T) and screw it into the mounting strip from the middle partition with four 1-5/8 in. wood screws. Add a magnetic cabinet latch and a door pull to the door at this time.
Join the worktop to the wall cabinet

Set up a pair of sawhorses as shown in Photo 12 to support the backside of the worktop as you screw the hinges to the front hanger strip of the wall cabinet. Be sure to align the cabinet and shim the back of the worktop so that the barrels of the hinges butt up to the bottom of the hanger strip. Drill pilot holes for the screws and drive No. 10 x 1-1/2 in. screws through the hinge holes into the hanger strip. Youll notice that the hinge ange against the hanger strip has the
Shopping List
Screw a temporary 2x4 to the wall and then locate and drill pilot holes in the back of the assembly over the wall studs. Lift the assembly onto the wall cleat, position it and then drive the lag screws through the back into the studs. Use six lag screws.
1/4" x 3" LAG SCREW
35-1/2" TO FLOOR
DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 4' x 8' sheets of hardwood plywood 1x4 x 14' maple 1x2 x 10' maple
TEMPORARY 2x4 WALL CLEAT
QTY. 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 lb. 1 1 1 pt. 4 4 6 9 28 2 4 2 4 4 ea. 4 1 3 1 pr.
1x2 x 10' pine 2x2 x 4' pine 2x4 x 10' pine 1/4" x 4' x 4' pegboard 6d nish nails Magnetic door catches Door pull Carpenters glue 1/8" x 3/4" x 18" steel Threaded knobs (see Buyers Guide)
12
Shim the worktop so the barrel of the hinges aligns with the bottom edge of the front hanger strip. Drill pilot holes and secure the hinges to the hanger strip with No. 10 x 1-1/2 in. screws.
ALIGN CORNERS
1/4" x 3" lag screws No. 10 x 1-1/2" screws Shelf pins

FRONT HANGER STRIP
SHIM TO HEIGHT
5/16" x 2" carriage bolts 5/16" washers 5/16" nuts 1/4" x 1-1/2" carriage bolts 1/4" washers and nuts No. 6 x 5/8" hex head screws Bolt latch 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" door butt hinges 2" x 3" hinges
60
WORKSHOP ON A WALL
Dont want uninvited guests in the shop? Add a padlock to the latch bolt.
countersink tapers on the wrong side. This will cause the screwheads to protrude slightly but dont worrythats part of the reason the hanger strip is recessed 1/8 in. back from the face of the wall cabinet.
The nishing touches

Now mount a bolt latch to the center face frame piece (H). Mount it whichever way allows the bolt to travel the farthest. This w ill ensure that the bolt w ill fit dow n through the front apron at least 1 in. Mount the latch so the bolt (when in the raised position) sits about 1/16 in. above the lower edge of the lower face frame (F). Drill pilot holes and screw it into place. Now youll need to drill a corresponding hole in the front apron of the worktop to mate with the bolt on the latch. Hold the worktop closed and unbolt the latch. Hit the bolt with your hammer to dent the front apron of the worktop to locate the hole exactly. Lower the worktop onto the floor and then drill a 1/2-in. hole for the bolt. The easiest nish to apply is two coats of polyurethane. Its tough and will stand up to years of abuse. Once the nish is dry, install your shelves and load them up with your tools. For safety, periodically check your hinges to make sure the pins are secure. If you need to protect your floor, apply selfstick felt to the bottom of the legs.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations BRUCE KIEFFER Project Design DAVID RADTKE
Need a space for doing crafts and hobbies? This cabinet is attractive enough to install inside the house too.
Cutting List
KEY A B C D E1 E2 F PCS. 2 2 1 1 1 2 2 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 10-3/4" x 47-3/4" plywood sides 3/4" x 10-3/4" x 46-1/2" plywood top and bottom 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 46-1/2" hanger strip (pine) 3/4" x 46-1/2" x 42-3/4" plywood back P 3/4" x 10" x 42-3/4" plywood middle partition Q 3/4" x 10" x 22-7/8" plywood xed shelves R 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 48" upper and lower face frames 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 8-11/16" outer face frames 3/4" x 2" x 8-11/16" center face frame 3/4" x 46-1/2" x 34-1/2" plywood worktop S T U1 2 2 1 3 2 4 KEY K L M N PCS. 2 2 2 2 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 34-1/2" side aprons 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 48" front and back aprons 3/4" x 2-3/4" x 34-1/4" legs 3/4" x 2-3/4" x 34-1/2" worktop struts 1/8" x 3/4" x 18" steel leg supports 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 31-1/8" pegboard door stiles (pine) 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 18-1/8" pegboard door rails (pine) 1/4" x 21-1/8" x 31-1/8" pegboard pieces 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 31-13/16" mounting strip (pine) 3/4" x 9-1/2" x 22-11/16" shelves 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 22-11/16" shelves
G H J
2 1 1
Buyers Guide
Buy threaded knobs (1/4 in. x 20; part No. 27R13; $1 each) at Woodcraft Supply on-line (woodcraft.com) or call (800) 225-1153. Be sure to order four knobs.
U2
62
Shelves that hang when theyre not in use (p. 61) . . .
52
mobile workbench
Do-it-all
by David Radtke
shelves that adjust to hold bench-top tools
and fold out to create a huge worktop

you have a tight garage and your workspace has to double as a parking space, this is the bench for you. As you can see, it folds down and has plenty of tool storage. And when its time to work on a project, it will expand into a huge worktable.
If
Adjustable-height shelves on the ends and sides are held in place with sturdy steel brackets that t into special double-slotted standards. One end shelf can be used to support your portable table saw, while the main worktop area and other end shelf both serve as an outfeed table. The longer side shelves
53
UPPER AND LOWER FRAMES
MIDDLE FRAME
C D
1 2
Predrill 1/8-in. holes and screw the three horizontal shelf frames together with 3-in. wood screws.
Cut the two pieces of 3/4-in. plywood (E) for the lower and middle shelves and screw them to the frames with 2-in. wood screws. Make sure the frames are perfectly square as you assemble them.
UPPER FRAME
can be adapted to fit your miter saw with additional brackets to support your workpiece as you cut. You can also set all the shelves even with the central worktop and create a huge, 4 x 8-ft. assembly table. Once you start using this bench, youll nd dozens of ways to make it work for a variety of tools and projects. The bench frame is made from ordinary construction-grade lumber, and the horizontal shelves and worktop are made from 3/4-in. thick hardwood plywood. You can use standard pine or fir plywood, but we recommend hardwood plywood because its less prone to warping. Theres no fancy joinery to bog down this rocksolid project. Its all held together with wood screws. The 3-in. swivel casters on the bottom let you maneuver it into the tightest of garage spaces and then lock it into place when its time to work. Keep in mind that as strong as the adjustable bracket system is, the adjustable shelves arent designed to withstand lots of pounding. Theyre great for assembly work and the steady, concentrated weight of a tool station. So if you have a lot of pounding and hammering to do, youll have to confine this activity to the central main worktop. The entire project will cost about $175, including the hardware, which is
Continued on p. 58
Cutting List
F F
KEY PCS. SIZE & DESCRIPTION A B C 4 4 2 2 2 4 1 2 2 2 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 54-1/2" shelf frame 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 21" shelf frame 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 54-1/2" center shelf frame 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 21" center shelf frame 3/4" x 23-15/16" x 54-1/2" lower and middle shelves 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 31-7/8" legs 3/4" x 26" x 59-1/2" worktop 3/4" x 26" x 18" end shelves 3/4" x 12" x 59-1/2" side shelves 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 54-1/2" undermount side shelf supports
LOWER FRAME 3" WOOD SCREWS
90
D E F
G H J K
Screw the legs (F) to the bottom frame with a pair of 3-in. wood screws at each corner, then clamp and screw the upper frame flush with the top of the legs. Make sure the legs are square to the frames and then add another pair of screws to each corner. Clamp and screw the center shelf as well.
54
mobile workbench
Figure A Mobile Workbench
1" SETBACK 1-1/2" SETBACK WORKTOP
END SHELF
2x4 SIDE SHELF SUPPORT (GLUE AND SCREW TO UNDERSIDE)
UPPER 2x4 FRAME
FAST-MOUNT STANDARDS G A
CENTER 2x2 FRAME
B E MIDDLE SHELF D C F
A F LOWER SHELF
LOWER SHELF FRAME
B F 3" LOCKING SWIVEL CASTERS
55
mobile workbench
Continued from p. 55
G 1" OVERHANG
UPPER FRAME
a great value for a versatile workbench thatll give years of service. Youll also enjoy how quickly this project goes together. Once you have the materials in hand, youll be able to complete it in less than a day.
16-1/2" BETWEEN SHELVES LOWER FRAME
Get it all at your home center and hardware store

Its worth your time to sift through the lumber pile to get good-looking, straight 2x4s and 2x2s. Remember, loose knots can weaken a board, so only select wood with tight knots. Make sure the plywood you select is flat. We found nice-looking 3/4-in. birch plywood at a local home center for the bargain price of $39 per sheet. The adjustable shelf standards and bracket are available at most home centers and hardware stores. If you cant nd this hardware locally, check our Buyers Guide on p. 62. We used a Pop riveter ($20) to attach the brackets (Photo 11). This useful tool is fairly inexpensive and has dozens of uses around the home. Once you get one, youll never understand how you lived without it.
4 5
Cut the top from a sheet of 3/4-in. plywood and screw it to the top of the legs and to the upper frame with 2-in. wood screws. Make sure to leave a 1-in. overhang at each leg corner.
Flip the bench over and screw 2x4 blocks into the corners as shown. Position your casters 1/4 in. from the outer edge and drill pilot holes for the No. 12 x 1-1/2 in. pan head screws. Drive the screws into the legs, frame and block to secure the casters.
5-1/2" LONG 2x4 BLOCK 3" LOCKING CASTERS
Assemble the workbench in sections

PUSH TIGHT TO TOP
DOUBLESLOTTED SHELF STANDARDS
CENTER ON LEG
Center the slotted standards on the faces of the 2x4s. Drive No. 10 x 2-1/2 in. screws through the holes in the standards and into the legs. Make sure the standards are parallel with each other.
For this project, its important to cut all your plywood and lumber pieces accurately and square so that the slotted standards and brackets align properly. Clamp a straightedge guide to your plywood to get straight cuts. Start by building the three frames (Photo 1) that make up the bottom and middle shelf and the worktop. All the frames have the same length and width measurements. The bottom and the middle frames have the same size plywood. The plywood for the worktop is wider and longer to overlap the ends of the steel standards. Follow Photos 1 5 for the assembly instructions for the central structure of the workbench.
58
mobile workbench
Screw the standards securely to the 2x4 legs
Make sure to center the standards on the front and side faces of the 2x4 legs ( Photo 6 ). Accuracy is important because itll allow you to interchange the shelves from side to side or hang both longer shelves on one side for storage. Youll also notice a top and a bottom on each standard. Be sure to orient them perfectly and push the standard against the bottom side of the worktop before securing it. Predrill before you screw the standards into place. Measure the distance between the top and the bottom of each standard and get them exactly parallel ( Photo 6 ) as you drive the screws. Snug them rmly, but without distorting the prole of the standard. The easiest way to accurately position the brackets on the bottom of the shelves is to mount the brackets rst, then set each shelf over the bracket ( Photo 7 ). Mark each side of the bracket near the standard and then remove the shelf and extend those marks out to the far edge of the shelf with a framing square to make sure they stay parallel. Before you screw the brackets to the bottom of the shelves, be sure to cut and glue furring strips to the bottom side of each shelf directly under the bracket. These strips add extra heft for the screws and build up each shelf just enough for them to lie flush with the central worktop. Apply glue and tack the strips on with small brads (Photo 8 ). Transfer the earlier marks you made onto the strips and then screw the brackets onto the shelf (Photo 9). Check Figure A for the correct mounting setbacks for the brackets.
14" ARM BRACKET
7 8
Push the brackets into the slots, center the shelf and then mark the bracket location on the rear of the shelf as shown. Then remove the shelf and extend the marks with a framing square. Cut furring strips to raise the shelves just enough to be even with the main worktop. We needed 3/16-in. strips for the end shelves (H) and 3/8-in. strips for the side shelves (J).
11" DOUBLEWALL BRACKET J
GLUE AND SCREW A 2x4 (K) FLAT HERE AFTER APPLYING BRACKETS 3/8" FURRING STRIP
CENTER BRACKET ON MARKS
Pop-rivet the ends of single brackets to the sides of each bracket
Fasten the shelf brackets to the bottom of the shelves with No. 8 x 1-in. pan head sheet metal screws.
The secret to adapting the brackets so the shelves can hang from the workbench is to cut the hooked ends off single-wall brackets and rivet them
60
2"
SINGLE-WALL BRACKET
to the inside of the double-wall brackets (Photos 10 12). Install a metalcutting blade in your jigsaw to cut the single-wall brackets as show n in Photo 10 . File the edges to remove sharp burrs and then clamp the piece to the side of the bracket (1 in. from the end of the bracket, excluding the hook; Photo 11 ). Drill two 1/8-in. holes through both pieces and then Pop-rivet them together. Make sure you accurately position the pieces so your shelf will hang level from the standards. Remember to fasten one cutoff piece on the inside face of one bracket and the other on the outside face; otherwise, the hooks wont line up with the slots. Once youve got the shelves and brackets ready, try them out. Make sure the hooks seat solidly in the standards and then check the shelf heights. When placed in the top slots, they should be even with the central bench top. If theyre high, unscrew the bracket and plane the wood strip slightly. If theyre lower than the central worktop, add some washers between the bracket and the shelf to nudge them ush. Youll find the end shelf brackets, with the support arms, a bit more stubborn to remove from the slots than the regular brackets. I found it best to hold the shelf front and give it a rm jerk upward for a clean release every time.
10
Cut the singlewall brackets 2 in. from the slotted edge for the side shelf (J) brackets and 1-1/2 in. for the end shelf (H) brackets. File the cut edges to remove the burrs.
LOCKING PLIERS
POP RIVETER DRILL 1/8" HOLE THROUGH BRACKET AND SUPPORT 1" 1/8" HOLE CUTOFF PIECE
CUTOFF PIECE FOR OTHER SIDE
1/8" STEEL RIVETS
11
Clamp the cutoff single-wall bracket to the double-wall bracket 1 in. from the slotted end of the bracket. Drill two 1/8-in. diameter holes through one side of the bracket and the cutoff bracket behind. Push the rivet into the hole and squeeze the riveting tool until the rivet snaps tight.
RIVETED ATTENTION
Adapt your tools to t the workbench

Some tools will work best in this workbench if you cut 3/4-in. plywood bases for them (cut a hole in the bottom of the base for the table saw to release sawdust) and then clamp the base to the shelf when youre using it. You may have to cut strips and glue them to the bottom of your table saw tool base so it lines up with the top of the workbench. You may have to do the same for your router table or surface planer. Weve only shown you a
12
Test the fit of your riveted shelf hanger brackets. Finally, cut, glue and screw a 2x4 (K) between the brackets of the long wing shelves (J) to stiffen them.
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mobile workbench
few ways to adapt tools to this bench. Its so versatile that with a little ingenuity, you can adapt it to almost any situation.
Buyers Guide
The Fast Mount brackets we used are made by John Sterling Corp. and available at home centers. The side table 11-in. brackets are item No. 243736. The end shelf 14-in. arm brackets are item No. 243744. The single-wall shelf brackets that get cut for mounting are item No. 243728. If you cant nd this hardware, get it from www.aubuchonhardware.com or call (800) 2824393. If you can nd the standards but not in the 24-in. size, buy the next size and cut them down.
DOUBLE-SLOTTED STANDARD
14" ARM BRACKET
11" DOUBLE BRACKET
Shopping List
ITEM 3/4" hardwood plywood (E, G, H, J) 2x2 x 8' pine (C, D) , B) 2x4 x 8' pine (F 2x4 x 10' pine (A, K) 2' long double-slotted standards 14" arm brackets 11" straight double-wall brackets Single-wall brackets Glue 2" wood screws 3" wood screws No. 10 x 2-1/2" at head screws No. 12 x 1-1/2" pan head sheet metal screws No. 8 x 1" pan head sheet metal screws No. 8 x 3/4" pan head sheet metal screws (for miter saw work support) 3" swivel locking casters QTY. 3 2 3 3 8 4 6 8 1 pt. 2 lbs. 2 lbs. 25 16 16
4 4
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography MIKE KRIVIT Opening Photo BILL ZUEHLKE Project Design DAVID RADTKE
62
Storage Galore
Build this simple shelf and cabinet system to fit your garage
by Gary Wentz
44
hen you think about garage storage, you probably think of flimsy metal shelves or crude plywood cabinets. But take a moment to think outside the box. Better yet, think about a different kind of boxbecause thats really what this storage system is: a series of simple boxes screwed to the wall. Open shelves fill the gaps between the boxes and rest on adjustable supports mounted in the box sides. This design maximizes storage space, saves labor and requires less material than a standard wall of cabinets. This article will cover everything you need to know to build this system. You can adapt our design to suit your own special needs. You can build one cabinet or a dozen, build tall floor-to-ceiling cabinets or shorter ones that
cover only part of the wall. You can even adapt this system for a laundry room, basement or closet.
Tools, materials and money

You could build this system with just a few hand tools, a drill and a circular saw, but a table saw will save you lots of time. The skills youll need are just as basic as the tools. If you can make long straight cuts and screw parts together, you can build this system. This whole system is made from just two materials: plastic-coated particleboard, usually called melamine, and construction-grade pine 1x4s. (Melamine is the type of plastic used as the coating.) You could use 3/4-in. plywood or particleboard, but we chose melamine because
Figure A Upright cabinet construction

(B)
Parts List
16" (C)
Overall dimensions of cabinet box: 96" tall x 25-1/8" wide x 16" deep. All material is 3/4 in. thick. KEY A
(A)
STUD (A)
SIZE & DESCRIPTION 16" x 96" (side) 16" x 23-5/8" (fixed shelf) 3-1/2" x 23-5/8" pine (cleat) 12" x 95-1/4" (door) 16" x 23-5/8" (adjustable shelf)
B C
(D)
D
96" (B)
PLASTIC-COATED PARTICLEBOARD (MELAMINE)
SHELF SUPPORT (E)
(B)
1-1/2" FINISH WASHER 3" SCREW 4" 8" 2x4 LEDGER
EDGE BAND
2" SCREW
All dimensions are for the cabinets shown here.
45
CUT MELAMINE
BANDED MELAMINE
EDGE BANDING
Cut melamine to width and iron on edge banding. Position the banding so it overhangs the ends and sides. Let the banding cool before trimming.
Hold a wood block firmly over the end and carefully slice off the excess banding. Use a sharp new blade in your utility knife.
it doesnt require a finish. The melamine coating is tougher than most finishes and easy to clean. The materials for our floor-to-ceiling system cost about $37 per linear foot of wall space. Thats less than we would have paid for wimpy utility cabinets at a home center. Our garage walls were 10 ft. tall. If your ceiling is about 8 ft. tall, you can eliminate the deep upper cabinets. That will lower the cost to about $27 per linear foot. If you opt for completely open shelving and eliminate the cabinet doors, your cost will drop to about $20 per linear foot.
EDGE TRIMMER
Plan the system to suit your stuff

This system is easy to adapt to the space available in your garage. Start the planning process with a tape measure and notepad. Survey your garage, basement, attic and any other place that currently holds stuff youd like to store in the cabinets. Jot down the measurements of larger items (like luggage or boxes that hold holiday decorations). Then go to the wall where youll install the cabinets. Roughly block out the cabinet locations on the wall. Remember to space out the cabinets to leave room for shelves in between. Experiment with different cabinet widths and spacing until you find a layout that works well. Follow these guidelines: I Each cabinet must have at least one stud behind it so you can fasten the cabinet securely to the wall. I Limit door widths to 24 in. To cover an opening wider than that, install double doors. We limited most of our doors to 12-in. widths so that we could open them even when the car was parked in the garage. I Shelves longer than 2 ft. often sag. If you make them longer, stiffen the melamine by screwing 1x4 cleats to the undersides.
Slice off the excess banding with an edge trimmer. Test the trimmer on a banded scrap first; you may have to adjust the blades for a perfect cut.
EDGE TRIMMER
If possible, size and space the cabinets so the shelves inside and between cabinets are the same length. That way, all your shelves will be interchangeable and faster to cut out. I Size your cabinets to make the most of a full sheet of melamine. By making our cabinets 16 in. deep, for example, we were able to cut three cabinet sides from each sheet with no wasted material (see Figure A for other dimensions). Dont forget that your saw blade
I
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 20 05
46
STOP BLOCK
4"
CABINET SIDE
CROSS-CUT GUIDE BACKER 1x4 SUPPORTS
4
BRAD POINT BIT STOP COLLAR
Drill 1/4-in. shelf support holes through cabinet sides using a scrap of pegboard as a guide. For end panels that wont support shelves on one side, place a stop collar on the drill bit.
Cut parts to length using a crosscut guide. A stop block screwed to the guide lets you mass-produce identical lengths fast. Support the melamine on both sides of the cut with 2x4 scraps.
Figure B Crosscut guide

1/2" GUIDE STRIP
SQUARING STRIP STOP BLOCK
FIXED SHELF 3/4" BASE
Predrill and screw 1x4s to melamine to form the fixed shelves. Screw all the fixed shelves to one cabinet side, then add the other side to complete the cabinet.
This guide takes a few minutes to make but saves time when youre cutting the fixed shelves (Photo 5) and even more time later when youre cutting shelves (Photo 14). Our system required 30 shelves. To make a crosscut guide, screw a guide strip to the base and run your saw against the guide strip to trim the excess off the base. Add a squaring strip positioned perpendicular to the guide strip. Position the stop block to set the length of your parts.
eats up about 1/8 in. of material with each cut. Most dozen or more colors. Manufacturers produce hundreds sheets of melamine are oversized by about 1 in. to of colors, but unusual colors are only available in large account for this. quantities (30 or even 60 sheets). Plastic iron-on edge banding is available at home centers, usually only in white. Cabinet suppliers carry other Buying melamine colors, but be sure to get banding that can be ironed on. Most home centers carry melamine in 4 x 8-ft. sheets ($30), usually only in white. For colors other than white, try a lumberyard that serves cabinetmakers (look in the Working with melamine Yellow Pages under Cabinets, Equipment and Supplies With your cabinet dimensions in hand, begin cutting the or Hardwoods). These suppliers often charge more melamine into parts. Cut the material into equal widths (about $40 per sheet) and might sell only to profession- for the sides and the fixed and adjustable shelves, but als, so call before you visit. Some cabinet suppliers stock dont cut the stretchers and shelves to length until theyre a few colors like gray, black and almond. Others carry a edge banded. Here are some pointers:
47
Get help. Melamine is too heavy to handle solo. If you have a large, stable table saw, you and a helper can cut full sheets. But its usually better to slice a sheet into manageable sections with a circular saw first. Then make finish cuts on the table saw. For more help cutting sheet material, see Sharpen Your Skills, p. 35. Wear gloves when handling large pieces. The edges of melamine are sharp enough to slice your hands. Avoid scratching the melamine surface. If your workbench has a rough surface, cover it with cardboard or old carpet. Pad sawhorses the same way. Run a few strips of masking tape across the base of your circular saw so it doesnt mar the melamine. Be careful with edges. Theyre easy to chip. When you stand parts on edge, set them down gently. Dont drop or drag sheets across the floor. Plan for chip-out. Saw blades often leave slightly chipped edges in the melamine coating. A new carbide blade will chip less than a dull one, but you cant completely prevent chips. Chipping is worse on the side where the saw teeth exit the material. When you run melamine across a table saw, the underside of the sheet is particularly prone to chipping. When youre using a circular or jigsaw, chipping is worse on the face-up side. Plan your cuts so that all the chipped edges are on the same side of the part. Then you can hide them during assembly by facing them toward the insides of cabinets.
editors note: Making screws work in melamine

Screws are the only fastening method used in this entire project. They make fast, strong joints. But screwing into melamine presents a few complications: Strip-out: Like any particleboard product, melamine strips easily if you overdrive screws. Go easy on the drill trigger as you drive screws home. Use coarse-thread screws only. Fine-thread screws will strip every time. Longer screws also minimize stripping. If this project had been built from plywood, 1-5/8-in. screws would have worked fine. But we used 2in. screws to assemble the boxes. Splits: Particleboard splits easily. Never drive a screw into particleboard without drilling a pilot hole. We drilled 7/64-in. holes and used No. 8 screws. Even with a pilot hole, screws will split particleboard if you place them close to ends. Keep them at least an inch from the ends of parts. Countersinking: Tapered screw heads will sometimes sink into melamine, but often theyll strip out before the head is flush with the melamine surface. Next to an edge, theyll crush out the particleboard. Always drill countersink holes for screw heads. You can drill countersink and pilot holes in one stroke with a countersink bit ($4). Appearance: Even with a clean countersink hole, screw heads are a blemish in melamines perfect surface. For a neater look, use finish washers (photo above) with any screws that will be visible. Finish washers also eliminate the need for pilot holes.
FINE THREADS
COARSE THREADS
FINISH WASHER
Iron on the edge band

The first rule of edge banding is to protect your marriage and buy a cheap iron (less than $10). Set the iron to the
SPLIT
CRUSH-OUT
1/4"
PILOT/COUNTERSINK BIT
Screw hinges to cabinets. Position top and bottom hinges 1/4 in. from each corner and space the others equally apart.
1/4" OVERLAY HINGE
50
DOORS
Position the doors over the hinges using shims to maintain a 1/8-in. gap. Use clamps or weights to hold the doors in place. A selfcentering drill bit (below) makes positioning screw holes easy.
point drill bit for a clean, chip-free hole. To limit blowout where the bit exits the melamine, set a backer underneath. You can make a drilling guide from just about any material, but a strip of pegboard is a perfect ready-made guide (a 4 x 8-ft. sheet costs $8). Label the bottom of your guide and the bottoms of the cabinet sides so all the holes will align. Otherwise youll end up with teetertotter shelves.
SHIM
Build fixed shelves and assemble the cabinets

SELF-CENTERING BIT ($7)
cotton setting and iron the banding on in two or three passes (Photo 1). On the first pass, run the iron quickly over the banding just to tack it into place. Center the banding so it overhangs on both sides. Make a second, slower pass to fully melt the glue and firmly adhere the banding. Then check the edges for loose spots and make another pass if needed. Trim the ends of the banding with a utility knife (Photo 2) before you trim the edges. Its possible to trim the edges with a utility knife if you set the banded edge face down on a flat surface. But Predrill with a self-centering bit and youll get faster, better results with a drive one screw through each hinge trimmer ($13) that slices off both sides from inside the cabinet. Add the other with one pass (Photo 3). If you damage screws with the doors open. the banding while trimming, just reheat it, pull it off and start over.
The fixed shelves that fit between cabinet sides (A) are made from melamine panels (B) and pine 1x4s (C). We painted our 1x4s to match the melamine. Cabinets less than 4 ft. tall need only top and bottom fixed shelves. Taller cabinets also need a middle fixed shelf. To make the fixed shelves, just cut melamine and 1x4s to identical lengths and screw them together (Figure A). Assembling the cabinets is a simple matter of fastening the sides to the fixed shelves (Photo 6). Predrill and drive a screw near the front of each fixed shelf first, making sure the banded edges of the fixed shelf and side are flush. Then drill and drive another screw near the backside of the cabinet to hold the fixed shelf in position before you add the other screws. Handle the completed cabinet boxes with caretheyre not very strong until theyre fastened to the wall.
Drill shelf support holes

The adjustable shelves rest on shelf supports that fit into holes drilled into the LEDGER cabinet sides (Photo 4). Drill all the way through the sides that will support shelves inside and outside the cabinet. Drill holes 3/8 in. deep in cabinet sides that form the outer ends of your shelf system. Tape wrapped around a drill bit makes a good depth marker when youre drilling just a few holes, but a stop collar ($4) is better for this job. Fasten a 2x4 ledger to the wall Check your shelf supports before framing with 3-in. screws. Choose drilling. Some require 1/4-in. holes; a straight 2x4 and make sure the ledger others require 5mm holes. Use a brad is level.
Hang the doors

Make the doors after the cabinet boxes are assembled. To hang the doors, first screw hinges to the cabinets (Photo 7). The type of hinge we chose is called a wrap hinge because it wraps around the corner at the front edge of the cabinet. This design has two big advantages: It mounts more securely to the cabinet and it lets you position the doors perfectly (Photo 8) before you fasten them (Photo 9). Be sure to buy 1/4-in. overlay hinges (the door covers 1/4 in. of the cabinet edge).
10
52
Figure C Upper cabinet construction

(J) (L) 3" SCREW (K) (F)
2" SCREW FINISH WASHER
Parts List
Overall dimensions of cabinet box: 21" tall x 72" wide x 24" deep. Your dimensions may differ. All material is 3/4 in. thick. KEY F G SIZE & DESCRIPTION 24" x 70-1/2" (top/bottom panel) 3-1/2" x 70-1/2" pine (cleat) 21" x 24" (side panel) 19-1/2" x 23-1/4" (divider) 4" x 23-1/4" (hinge spacer) 17-7/16" x 20-1/4" (door)
1" SCREW 24" STUD (G) 21"
H J K L
(H)
Hinges with a larger overlay will protrude beyond the outer edge of the cabinet. We used four hinges for each of our 12-in.-wide double doors. If you opt for a single wide door, use at least five hinges. The hinges themselves are strong enough to hold much more weight, but theyre fastened with just two screws each. The particleboard core of melamine doesnt hold screws very well. So when in doubt, add more hinges. With the hinges in place, measure between them to determine the door width (with double doors, allow a 1/8-in. gap between them). To determine the length, measure the cabinet opening and add 3/4 in. Cut the doors and set them in place to check the fit before banding the edges. When the doors are complete and screwed to the hinges, label each door and cabinet. Then unscrew the doors to make cabinet installation easier.
Mount the cabinets

Dont install the cabinets directly on the garage floor. Water puddles from dripping cars will quickly destroy particleboard. We mounted our cabinets about 6 in. off the floorjust enough space to allow for easy floor sweeping. This height also let us level the ledger and fasten it to the wall framing (Photo 10) rather than to the concrete foundation. We drove screws into the studs and sill plate. Youll need a helper to install the cabinets (Photo 11). Install the two end cabinets first, then position the others between them, leaving equal spaces for the shelves that fit between the cabinets. Watch out for obstructions that prevent cabinet doors from opening. End cabinets that fit into corners, for example, should stand about 1/2 in. from the adjacent wall. We mounted one of our end cab-
BLANK PANEL
CORNER CABINET
LEDGER
11
Set the cabinet into place and screw it to the ledger. Then level the cabinet and fasten it to the wall with pairs of 3-in. screws driven through the upper and middle cleats into studs.
12
Build the upper cabinets with the same techniques and materials used for the uprights. Install a blank panel where cabinets will meet at a corner.
53
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN SEPTEMBER 20 05
13
Set the upper cabinets on top of the lower cabinets and screw the uppers together with 1-1/4-in. screws. Then screw them to the wall studs and to the lower cabinets.
inets about 1-1/2 in. from the wall to allow for the trim around the entry door (see Photo 11).
Upper cabinets
The upper cabinets provide deep, enclosed storage space and tie the upright cabinets together so they cant twist away from the wall. Instead of installing upper cabinets, you could simply run a long shelf across the tops of the upright cabinets. The upper cabinets are simply horizontal versions of the upright cabinets; you use the same techniques and materials (see Figure C). Here are some building tips: I Minimize measuring and math errors: Build the upper cabinets after the upright cabinets are in place. I To allow easy installation, leave a 1/2-in. gap between the ceiling and the upper cabinets. You could leave the resulting gap open, but we chose to cover it. Heres how: We ripped 1x4s into 1-in.-wide strips, painted the strips to match the edge band and screwed the strips to the tops of the cabinets. After the uppers were installed, we cut trim strips from 1x4, painted them and used them to cover the gap. I You can build upper cabinet sections up to 8 ft. long. For strength and ease of installation, size the sections so they meet over the upright cabinets, not over open shelves. I Remember to add hinge spacers (K) to dividers (J) so you can install hinges back to back.
14
Measure the spaces inside and between cabinets. Subtract 1/4 in. and cut shelves using the crosscut jig.
SHELF SUPPORT
CABINET BUMPER
between shelves and use up any scraps. The number of shelves is up to you; we made four for inside each cabinet and six for each between-cabinet space. We didnt put any shelves in the upper cabinets. Install cabinet knobs or pulls after the doors are in place to make drilling a hole in the wrong location just about impossible.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustrations SUSAN JESSEN
Buyers Guide
All the tools and materials used in this project are available at most home centers. Most of the materials can also be ordered from www.woodworkershardware.com (800-383-0130).
I I
Finish washers, No. SCWCF08, $5 for 100 Shelf supports, No. G111NI, $11 for 100 1/4-in. overlay hinges (burnished brass), No. A07566BB, $1.63 per pair Edge band (white, black, gray and almond), $33 for 250 ft. Double-sided edge band trimmer, No. VIAU93, $13
Shelves and hardware come last

Cut the shelves at the very end of the project (Photo 14). That way, you can take exact measurements inside and
I I
56
Workbench
by David Radtke
Folding
Build this solid, roll-around bench in a day with simple hardware and only two sheets of plywood. Once youve built it, youll wonder how you lived without it.
Heres a workspace thats huge and accessible from all sides yet folds up and stows away easily. If you dont have room for a full-size permanent workbench but really need space to spread things out, this
82
workbench is it. It opens to a solid 4 x 7-ft. surface with both wings up, yet closes and rolls into a small 4-ft. x 18-in. spot in a corner of the room. Its a perfect work space for the garage or basement. Its also a great surface for making repairs, working on hobbies, cutting sewing patterns, wrapping gifts, folding laundry, doing stained glass crafts or even just holding a mechanics parts. This project has no complex wood joints. Just straight cuts, careful measuring and some nailing and screwing.
Assembly is as simple as glue and nails

Take a look at the Cutting List and cut all your pieces from 3/4-in. thick hardwood plywood. I used birch plywood from a home center, but any at plywood sheet will do. Avoid construction-grade plywoods because theyll often have bows or warps thatll make precise tting impossible. I strongly recommend you use a guide (Photo 1) to cut the plywood. Youll have tighter-tting
3/4" HARDWOOD PLYWOOD
1
CUT ALL THE PIECES TO SIZE from two sheets of 3/4-in. birch plywood. Use a 40-tooth carbide blade or a 150tooth plywood blade for a smooth cut. A straightedge cutting guide clamped to the plywood will give you factorystraight cuts.
TOP
C B A2 A1
BOTTOM
2
GLUE AND NAIL the antirack shelf supports (A1, A3) to the sides (B) first, then align, glue and nail the top and bottom pieces to the sides.
A4 A3 B
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MAY 2000
83
Fig. A
Cutting List
Shopping List
ITEM QTY. 3/4 x 4 x 8 hardwood plywood 2 3/4 x 6 x 8 hardwood boards* 2 3 locking casters 4 1 brad nails 1 pkg. 6d nish nails 1/4 lb. 3/4 pipe anges 4 3/4 x 36 galv. pipe (one end threaded) 4 Wood glue 1 pint 1-in. rubber feet 4 1/4 x 1-1/4 lag screws and washers 8 1/4 x 1-1/4 carriage bolts and washers 8 1-1/2 x 48 piano hinges 2 2 Cam locks (see Buyers Guide) *Rip on table saw to make edging.
3
FLIP THE ASSEMBLY upside down and align the caster bases with the outer edges of the bottom. Use 1-1/4 in. long lag screws (drill a 3/16-in. pilot hole) on the outer edge and 1-1/4 in. carriage bolts (drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole) with nuts and washers for the inner fasteners.
KEY A1 A2 A3 A4 B C D E
QTY. 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 62 ln.ft.
SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4 x 12 x 46-3/8 lower shelf support 3/4 x 12 x 46-3/8 lower shelf 3/4 x 7-1/4 x 46-3/8 upper shelf support 3/4 x 12 x 46-3/8 upper shelf 3/4 x 17-1/2 x 31-7/8 sides 3/4 x 17-1/2 x 47-7/8 top and bottom 3/4 x 31-7/8 x 47-7/8 tilt panels 1/4 x 3/4 hardwood edging (strips cut from boards)
3" LOCKING CASTERS
BOTTOM (C)
joints and better glue bonds. Once all the plywood pieces are cut, rip the 1/4-in. wide edge banding from 3/4-in. thick boards. If you dont have a table saw, ask a full-service lumberyard to do it for you. Assemble the upper and lower shelves as shown in Fig. A and Photo 2 with carpenters glue and 6d nish nails. NOTE: Dont alter the design of the shelves for this workbench. The large shelf supports (A1 and A3) on the bottom and top of the shelves keep the bench from racking out of square. Glue and nail the sides to the shelf ends, then let the assembly sit for an hour to let the glue dry before attaching the casters as shown in Photo 3.
84
SIDE (B)
1/4" x 3/4" HARDWOOD EDGING
4
FLIP THE BENCH onto the casters and begin gluing and nailing the 3/4-in. by 1/4in. hardwood edging to the exposed plywood edges.
Small, 1-in. brads work great for attaching the hardwood edging
The thin hardwood edging is a necessary component of the bench; without it, the hinge screws would not hold as well and the plywood could delaminate along the edges. To apply the edging, start a few brads into each piece of wood edging, put glue on the plywood and tack each piece into position (Photo 4). Once the edging is tacked in place, nail it every 6 in. with the brads. When the glue is dry, sand the sharp corners of the edging.
1" BRAD NAILS
GLUE
5
5" 5" x 5" BLOCK 3/4" GALV. PIPE 3/4" PIPE FLANGE
5"
SCREW the 3/4-in. pipe flanges onto 5-in. square reinforcing blocks cut from scrap plywood. Glue and screw the blocks to the underside of the front panels as shown in Fig. A.
Piano hinges are a pain in the neckall those tiny screws. But theyre the key to why this bench is so great!
All those screws give continuous support along the joint for a sturdy worktop. Be sure to align one hinge blade with the top (C) and the other with the top of panel D. Use a hinge center punch like the one shown or a Vix bit, a special drill bit thats self centering; see Buyers Guide, p. 88. Screw the hinges securely in place with the screws provided. Glue and screw the blocks to the underside of each panel (D) to support the 3/4-in. pipe anges and pipe legs. I bought 3-ft. lengths of pipe, threaded on one side, and found that I needed to cut (with a hacksaw) about 1 in. off this length. This allowed room for the anges and the rubber feet. The locks serve a dual purpose. First, they keep little hands from getting into things and getting pinched, and second, theyll keep everything inside from tipping out if the bench is jarred. To install them, drill the holes for the lock (Photo 7) and glue
6
PIANO HINGE PANEL (D)
TOP (C)
CENTER PUNCH
TIP THE BENCH onto its side. Align each tip-up panel (D) with the bench frame so your 1-1/2 in. piano hinge fits as shown. Align your screw holes perfectly with a center punch or a Vix bit (see Buyers Guide, p. 88).
86
7 7
3/4" SPADE BIT 1-1/8" SPADE BIT
CAM LOCK
DRILL THE HOLES for the cam locks into each panel (D); see Fig. A for exact placement. The larger 1-1/8 in. dia. recess is only 1/4 in. deep and allows the lock to be hidden below the surface. The second 3/4-in. dia. hole goes through to the other side and supports the lock shaft. Follow the directions on the package for mounting.
a wooden catch to the bottom of the shelf as shown in Fig. A. Measure the shaft of the lock once its installed to get the correct thickness for the block. We used a 1/2-in. thick block for ours.
We nished our bench with a tough urethane varnish, but a durable oil enamel can add color and personality
Remove the hardware to make painting or varnishing a whole lot easier. Label the panels in a hidden spot so you get the right on the right side when you assemble. Small variations from one panel to the next can show up on your hinge placement and locks. Sand the entire bench with 150-grit sandpaper and use a power sander to knock down any high spots on the hardwood edging. Vacuum the dust, wipe the bench down with a tack cloth and apply your nish. Wait a few days after the last coat of nish to let it cure before you put your rst scratches on the workbench.
Art Direction BOB UNGAR Photography BILL ZUEHLKE and RAMON MORENO Technical Art CRAIG ENSLIN
8 8
TWIST the 3/4-in. threaded pipe onto the pipe flanges for a rock-solid workbench. Be sure to lock the casters in place when using the bench.
Buyers Guide
You can buy keyed-alike cam locks No. 98998 and Vix bit No. 91995 at Rockler Hardware (800-279-4441). www.rockler.com You can buy a hinge center punch No. 23K05.01 at Lee Valley Tools (800-871-8158). www.LeeValley.com
88
Foldaway
workshop
This space saver will keep your work area clutter free and your tools within reach
by David Radtke
efore I built this nifty foldaway workshop, I had tools and fasteners spread out on every horizontal surface I could find. It got so bad that Id spend more time looking for fasteners and tools than using them. This workshop is designed to fix that problem and more. It has loads of storage for all your gear and yet keeps it easily accessible. Best of all, when youre finished for the day, you can put everything away, shut the doors and lock it up.Youll also appreciate its modest profile. With the doors shut, it protrudes a mere 14-1/2 in. from the wall, so no sweat, youll still be able to pull your car into the garageand even get out. This workshop is also designed to be easy to build with simple woodworking tools. In fact, all youll need besides your measuring and marking tools is a circular saw, a jigsaw and a drill. And it doesnt have any tricky wood joints to slow down the building processjust screws and nails. If you have basic carpentry skills, youll find you can easily work your way through the how-to steps in a single weekend. The cost for all the materials is around $300, including the hardware. Youll be able to buy everything at a home center except the folding L-brackets. These heavy-duty brackets will support up to 750 lbs. and we found they live up to the claim. The brackets have four positions: straight up for tabletop work and flat down for storage, as well as two in-between locking positions that transform the worktop into a handy drawing board. Check the Buyers Guide on p. 42 for a mail-order source.
30
Foldaway workshop
3-1/2" x 1-1/2" NOTCH
BOTTOM RIP GUIDE
Rip 2x10 lumber to 9 in. wide to create a flat edge and ensure that all the frame pieces are uniform. Then mark and cut the 1-1/2 in. deep notches for the rear stretcher pieces (Figure A).
Besides the fold-down worktop, youll appreciate the adjustable shelves in each door recess thatll hold boxes of nails and screws, paint, glue bottles, spare partsyou name it. And the sturdy piano hinges are strong enough to hold nearly anything you can pack into the shelves. The tried-and-true Peg-Board is great for visually organizing your hand tools, and weve included space for an overhead fluorescent light and an outlet strip for power tools. Theres plenty of room on the bottom shelf for bigger tools like your circular saw, belt sander and router. The foldaway workshop is also great for hobby, craft and even gardening supplies and tools. So whether youre building one or several, get your materials and follow our step-by-step photos and clear shop drawing.
2
B B
B A C
Set the rear stretchers (B) into the notches of the sides (A) and screw them into place. Next, screw the top and bottom pieces (C) to the sides and stretchers.
Choose straight lumber

Go to a home center and choose your lumber carefully. The main frame of the project is built with sturdy, dry, construction-grade 2x10s and 2x4s. Buy them as straight as you can find. If they have a twist or bow, theyll throw off the frame and the doors will be difficult to fit. The plywood should be 3/4 in. and flat.You can get by with construction grade, but we used birch plywood because its nice looking and perfectly flat. The door sides and shelves should be hardwood for strength. Our home center had a nice selection of maple that matched the birch plywood.You can substitute poplar, oak or birch. Here again, make sure the lumber is straight. Boards that arent perfectly straight can be cut up for the shorter shelves. NOTE: Assemble the project on an even, flat surface.You can end up with some unintentional twists in the main frame and the doors if you build them on an uneven surface. Choose a flat area in your garage or driveway for the assembly work.
BOTTOM C
D 2x2 BACKER
PEG-BOARD 44-15/16" x 37" D
Flip the assembly over onto its back. Measure and cut a pair of 2x2 backers to fit between the center and upper stretchers. Next, screw the Peg-Board to stretchers and the 2x2s.
Notches in the frame keep it square

Ripping your 2x10s to 9 in. wide gives you a nice, square edge on the face of the frame to mount your piano hinges to later. Once theyre ripped, notch the backsides of the frame sides as shown in Photo 1 to accept the horizontal stretchers. Set your saw to a 1-1/2 in. depth of cut and make multiple passes about 1/4 in. apart the width of the 2x4. Break out the
CENTER LINE
32
Figure A Workbench Assembly

72" PIANO HINGE MAGNETIC CATCH
MAGNETIC CATCHES
CABINET FRAME SIDE
DOOR ASSEMBLY TOP VIEW
SCREW EYE FOR LOCK AND WALL CATCH
D1 A A M D1 E1 K1 B D2 F
J K2
K2
L1, L2 G F
K1 E1
FOLDING L-BRACKET
E2 C
3-1/2" 1-1/2" (TYP.)
D2 L2 J
1/16"
L1
73"
3/16"
FOLDING L-BRACKET
E1 A
3-1/2" 72" SHELF STANDARDS 9/16" 5/8" 5/8" 36" 7/8" 2" 5/8"
5/8"
3/8" 2"
F
3-1/2"
L2
L1
SIDE DETAIL
DOOR SIDE DETAIL
SHELF DETAIL
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 20 03
33
Foldaway workshop
4
PEGBOARD 3/16"
E1 BRACKET SUPPORT A FOLDING L-BRACKET
CENTER STRETCHER
Screw the folding L-bracket supports (E1) to the sides. Position the brackets 3/16 in. past the top of the support and flush with the supports inside edge. Screw the brackets into the support with No. 8 x 1-1/4 in. pan head screws.
notches with a chisel and file the bottom of the notches smooth. Take care to get the frame square as you screw the stretchers (B) into the notches and screw the top and bottom panels (C) into place. The best way to ensure the frame is square is to measure the diagonals and adjust the frame until theyre equal.
Find the right spot in your garage

There may be a few snags to look out for in your garage. If youre installing the foldaway workshop near the garage door, make sure it will clear the track. The height of the project is 78 in. Low-clearance overhead doors may have a track in the way. Also keep in mind that it opens to a full 8 ft.Youll find you still have 3-1/2 in. behind the doors when theyre open so you can hang rakes and shovels behind it. Your garage may have a row of concrete block near the floor that sticks out past the wall surface. If so, plan ahead and cut the side pieces longer past the bottom stretcher to accommodate the block and then notch them to fit around it. Also feel free to make the project shorter or a bit taller to suit your needs and adjust the worktop to a height that suits you. Ours sits at a comfortable 36 in. off the floor.
1-3/8" F F DOOR PANEL SIDE
7/8" F
Cut the door frame sides (F) and top and bottom pieces (G) to length from 1x6 boards. Position the 6-ft. shelf standards flush with the bottom edge of each door side (F) and nail them every 6 in.
The Peg-Board stiffens the frame

Once youve got the basic frame assembled, cut your Peg-Board and center it onto the top and middle stretchers.Youll know in a hurry if your frame is out of square because the panel should fall into place (Photo 3). Fasten the Peg-Board every 6 in. to the stretchers and 2x2s with 1-1/4 in. wood screws.
5-1/2"
6
6d FINISH NAIL F FLUSH EDGES CARPENTERS GLUE H DOOR PANEL
PLYWOOD CRADLE BRACE
Cut the door panels (H) and place them into a cradle brace as shown. Spread glue on the edge of the plywood and predrill and nail the sides (F) to the plywood door panels every 6 in. Once the sides are fastened, predrill and glue and screw the door tops and bottoms (G) to the door panels.
L-brackets make a rock-solid top

Position the brackets carefully as you install them on the bracket supports to make sure theyll open and close once the project is complete. Keep them flush with the inside edge of the supports and make sure they extend 3/16 in. past the top (Photo 4). This little extension gives a bit of room for the folding L-brackets to release properly when its time to fold them down. Take the same care later (see Photo 9) when you attach the top to the folding L-brackets. Make sure the top is 1/16 in. from the PegBoard and that the tops of the L-brackets are parallel to the sides of the worktop.
34
Foldaway workshop
A BIT UNHINGED H 1-5/8" SCREWS PIANO HINGE G F
BOTTOM
Set the door assemblies onto the frame assembly as shown. Fold the top flap of your piano hinge so its trapped between the door edge and the side of the frame to position it evenly. Screw it to the frame, then open the hinge and screw it to the door.
Install the shelf standards precisely

The shelf standards support the shelves, and the notches in the shelves hold them in place so they dont fly out when you open the door. Set your combination square to the dimensions shown in Figure A and slide it up along the edge of the door frame sides (F) as you nail the standards into place. Also make sure you flush the standard bottoms to the bottom of the door sides so all the shelves will be level. Rip your shelves to width and again be precise with the layout of the notches in the ends of the shelf. These are a bugger to cut, but making multiple passes from each end with a jigsaw works well.You can clean up the cuts with a file.
Cutting your plywood door panels
J 3/4" PLYWOOD TOP
Cut and glue two pieces of 3/4-in. plywood (J) to make the work surface. To complete the worktop, cut 1x2 boards to length and nail them to the sides with 6d finish nails.
J 3/4" PLYWOOD BOTTOM
9
K 3/4" x 1-1/2" HARDWOOD EDGING EVEN SPACING
J WORKTOP
HEAVY-DUTY L-BRACKET
Center the worktop (J) between the sides and leave a 1/16-in. gap from the face of the Peg-Board. Make sure the folding L-brackets are evenly spaced front-toback along the edge of the worktop. Screw the L-bracket to the underside of the worktop with No. 8 x 1-1/4 in. pan head screws.
We used a table saw to first rip the panels for a nice, straight edge. If you dont have a table saw, use a circular saw and a long straightedge guide. Once the panels are cut for width, mark the length using a framing square as a guide. Cut each panel carefully with your circular saw equipped with a sharp 40-tooth blade. Attach the door sides, making sure theyre flush with the plywood door panel face. If a little glue oozes out, wipe it off with a wet rag right away to keep it from showing through your finish later. Screw the top and bottom of the door frame (parts G) to the panel (H) instead of nailing them. The 1-5/8 in. screws, along with the glue, bond the door sides and plywood panel together for a rock-solid door. To complete the door frame, cut a pair of triangular pieces of maple (M) 5-1/2 in. on a side and glue and nail them to the top inside corners of the doors to hold the closing plates of the magnetic door catches.
Piano hinges give total door support

Piano hinges can be a pain to install, but you can simplify the process by tucking the top flap between the door and the frame (Photo 7) to hold it in place while you screw the lower exposed flap to the frame side. To predrill perfectly centered holes, use a No. 3 Vix bit in your drill. This nifty bit has a tapered front edge that fits into the hole on the hinge and exactly centers itself. As you push on the bit, the spring-loaded bit pilots itself dead center. Drive the screws as you go to keep the hinge from shifting.
36
Foldaway workshop
10
4' STRAIGHT BOARD
Check your floor with a level placed on a 4-ft. board to see how much you may need to shim the cabinet sides. Our garage floor had a 1/2-in. slope in 4 ft. from front to back.
Once the bottom flap of the hinge is secured, lift the door, pivot the top flat out, position the door side even with the frame and secure the hinge to the door frame in exactly the same way.
Use a double layer of plywood for a solid worktop

Cut your worktop pieces (J) from 3/4-in. plywood and glue them (Photo 8) together with carpenters glue spread liberally between. Screw the pieces together on the underside with 1-1/4 in. wood screws. Once the glue sets, cut 1x2 maple and nail it around the edges as shown in Figure A. Position the top carefully onto the folding L-brackets. Hold the top securely, align the brackets parallel to the edge and screw it into place.Youll need a bit extension for your power screwdriver to get inside the bracket mechanism. If you dont have one, you can mark it, predrill it and then use a long-blade screwdriver to drive the screws. At this point, test the mechanism to make sure it folds down. If the bracket binds, loosen the screws and shift the bracket until it works.
SHIMS
11
STUD LOCATIONS SAFETY STRAP
Mark the stud locations. Cut and set the shim. Tip the cabinet up slowly with the doors closed. Slide it into position.
Lag-screw the frame to the studs

Every installation situation has its own set of problems, and ours was no exception. The floor was out of level, so we had to shim one side to get the project to sit level on the floor. The concrete foundation at the bottom of the wall stuck out 1/2 in., so we added 1/2-in. strips to the backside of the frame to move it out from the wall a bit. Use your ingenuity to get past any problems you might find. We also secured some bolt snaps to the wall (see photo, p. 40) with wall anchors and screw eyes to keep the doors open when in use. The screw eyes on the front of the door also double as a place to slip in a padlock to keep out unwanted visitors. CAUTION: The doors of this project can fly open when youre moving it into position. Use a strap hinge and brace the bottom of the doors until you get it secured to the wall.
PERMANENT SHIM
MAGNETIC DOOR CATCH
12
M CORNER DOOR BRACE
A REAL CATCH
LAG SCREWS INTO STUDS
Drill 3/16-in. pilot holes through the stretchers into the studs. Insert 1/4-in. x 4-in. lag screws and washers and use a wrench to tighten the cabinet to the wall. Add the magnetic catches and the shelves.
Finishing touches
The magnetic catches for the doors are actually interior door catches (see Buyers Guide, p. 42). Screw the ball section to the top of the frame and the steel plate onto the door. We found a
38
Foldaway workshop
Shopping List
DESCRIPTION
2x10 x 8' spruce, pine or fir 2x4 x 14' spruce, pine or fir 2x2 x 8' spruce, pine or fir 1x6 x 12' hardwood (door sides and shelves) 1x8 x 4' pine shelf (under-bracket blocks) 37" x 44-15/16" Peg-Board (1/4" thick) 3/4" x 4' x 8' birch plywood 1x2 x 12' hardwood worktop edging 6' piano hinges 6' shelf standards and brackets 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 10' pine or hardwood lattice (shelf edging) 6d nails 3" wood screws 2-1/2" wood screws 1-5/8" wood screws 1-1/4" wood screws 1/4" x 4" lag screws and washers Folding L-brackets (see Buyers Guide) Magnetic catches (see Buyers Guide) Wall anchors, bolt snaps, door handles Mini-tube fluorescent light 1
QTY.
3 1 1 4 1 1 2 1 2 8 2 1 lb. 2 lbs. 1 lb. 1 lb. 1 lb. 6 1 pr. 2
Cutting List
KEY
A B
PCS.
2 3 2 2 1 2 1 4 4 2 2 2 2 10 10 2
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

1-1/2" x 9" x 78" pine sides 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" x 48" pine stretchers 1-1/2" x 9" x 45" pine top and bottom 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 33-1/2" pine backers for Peg-Board 1/4" x 44-15/16" x 37" Peg-Board 1-1/2" x 6-1/8" x 12-3/4" pine bracket supports 3/4" x 6-1/8" x 45" fixed pine shelf 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 73" maple door sides 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 23-7/8" maple door tops and bottoms 3/4" x 22-3/8" x 73" birch plywood door panels 3/4" x 22-3/8" x 43-3/8" birch plywood worktop pieces 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 22-3/8" maple 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 44-7/8" maple 3/4" x 4-7/16" x 22-3/8" maple shelves 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 22-1/4" maple shelf stops 3/4" x 5-1/2" maple triangular braces
BOLT SNAP
Flip the top down, close the doors and secure the padlock until youre ready for your next project.
C D1 D2
SCREW EYES ON BOTH ENDS
Keep the doors open with a wall anchor and double-ended bolt snap.
SHELF STANDARDS
mini-tube fluorescent light fixture at a home center and screwed it to the underside of the top. An outlet strip mounted to the side of the frame makes plugging in power tools a snap. We drilled a 1-1/2 in. hole in the frame side to slip the plug end through to the nearest outlet. Although not completely necessary, two coats of furniture oil or polyurethane will help preserve the project, especially if your garage gets seasonally damp. Just remove the hardware and apply your finish. Be sure to wait a couple of days for the project to dry before using it.
Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration GENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
E1 E2 F G H J K1 K2 L1 L2 M
NOTCHES
Buyers Guide
I
The notches in the shelves keep them secure as you open and close your doors.
Folding L-brackets ($15.99 each) and Vix bits: Woodworkers Hardware, (800) 383-0130 or www.Wwhardware.com Magnetic door catches (No. 47175, $8 each) shown on p. 38: (800) 642-2112. www.ImprovementsCatalog.com
40
This is a completely updated version of a popular story first run in June 95.
Adirondack chair
Simple construction maximum comfort.
by Bruce Kieffer and David Radtke
Traditional
lop down in one of these solid wood chairs and youll appreciate the comfort of this traditional design. You dont have to be an expert to build it either. All the parts of this solid, great-looking chair can be cut with a circular saw and jigsaw, then assembled with a drill, a power
More ADIRONDACK CHAIR

75
Adirondack chair
screwdriver, a few clamps and glue. Even if youre a novice, youll be able to follow our plan drawing and clear step-by-step photos. Weve also included a Shopping List and Cutting List so you can spend less time head-scratching and more time building.
When youre building more than one chair, set up an assembly line and cut the building time per chair by 40 percent.
Tip
strong, inexpensive and easy to work with, plus it takes paint beautifully. If you have trouble finding it, almost any other wood will do: Alder, aspen, maple and white oak are excellent hardwood choices, and cedar, cypress, fir and pine are good softwood choices. Keep in mind that hardwood will be more durable, but softwood is certainly strong enough for this project. Traditional Adirondack chairs are painted, but you can choose a clear outdoor deck finish if you prefer. If you do opt for paint, check out the special section on p. 80 to
JIGSAW
ARM SUPPORT
ARM
1" GRID
We made our chair from yellow poplar. Poplar is lightweight,
1
WEATHERPROOF GLUE
DRAW full-size grids onto the arm and back leg pieces and follow the curves with a jigsaw.
More ADIRONDACK CHAIR
Shopping List
ITEM
1x6 x 10 poplar 1x6 x 8 poplar 1x6 x 12 poplar 1x4 x 12 poplar 1-5/8 galvanized deck screws 1-1/4 galvanized deck screws Exterior oil primer White polyurethane oil gloss enamel *Enough paint to finish two chairs
BACK SLATS QTY.

1 piece 1 piece 1 piece 1 piece 24 68 1 qt.* 1 qt.*
Cutting List
KEY
A B C D E F G H J K L M N
1/4" SPACERS
1-1/4" SCREW
PCS.
1 2 2 1 2 2 1 4 6 2 1 1 1
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3/4 x 5-1/2 x 35 poplar (center back slat) 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 33 poplar (back legs) 3/4 x 5-1/2 x 29 poplar (arms) 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 23 poplar (front seat support) 3/4 x 3-1/2 x 21 poplar (front legs) 3/4 x 3-1/4 x 35 poplar (back slats) 3/4 x 3 x 20 poplar (lower back cleat) 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 35 poplar (back slats) 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 21-1/2 poplar (seat slats) 3/4 x 2-1/2 x 9 poplar (arm supports) 3/4 x 2 x 25-1/2 poplar (center back support) 3/4 x 2 x 21-1/2 poplar (back leg support) 3/4 x 2 x 21 poplar (upper back support)
LOWER BACK CLEAT
ALIGN CENTERS
SLIP 1/4-in. spacers between the back slats as you screw the horizontal back supports (G, L and N) to the slats. Predrill and countersink each hole and apply weatherproof glue to each joint.
TOP OF BACK
Cut from pieces C
MAKE a compass from a scrap of wood by drilling a hole near each end. Put a nail in one end and use a pencil in the other hole to draw the 14in. radius to form the curved top.
PENCIL
WOOD STICK FINISH NAIL
14"
CENTER LINE PIVOT HERE
76
FIG. A ADIRONDACK CHAIR
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2001
77
Adirondack chair
help achieve a tough, long-lasting and good-looking painted finish.
Transfer the grid patterns for accurate curves for the arms and legs
Enlarge the grids directly onto the board, or make a full-size paper pattern and then transfer the shape to the board. Once the shape is drawn, follow the lines with a jigsaw (Photo 1). Write pattern on the first leg and arm pieces and use them to make the others. If youre making more than one chair, nows the time to trace all the arm and leg pieces for each chair. Note: The left arms and legs are mirror images of the right. Also, trim the small cutout piece of each arm (C) to make the arm support (K) for each side.
Cut the tapered back pieces with a circular saw

The two tapered back pieces are tricky to cut, and the safest way to do it is to cut them from a wider board. Draw the tapers shown in Fig. A onto a 1x6 cut to length. Nail each end of the board to the tops of a sawhorse, placing the nails where theyll be out of the saws path. Use a No. 4 finish nail on each end and hammer it in flush with the surface. Set the depth of your circular saw 1/8 in. deeper than the thickness of the board, and cut the taper from the wide end to the narrow end. Next, draw a straight line on the remaining part to define the second piece and cut it. Note: Before you begin assembly, sand all the pieces and ease the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, followed by 150-grit.
Assemble the back first

Lay the back pieces face down on your workbench (Photo 2). Line up
78
JUNE 2001
Adirondack chair
the bottoms and insert 1/4-in. spacers between the slats. Cut your 1/4-in. spacers from scrap boards or scrap 1/4-in. plywood. Screw each of the horizontal back supports G, L and N to the slats with 1-1/4 in. exterior deck screws. Predrill and countersink each screw hole. Youll need to cut a bevel on the topside of the center horizontal back support (L). A table saw works best, but you could use the same circular saw method you used earlier to cut the tapered side back slats (H). Just set the bevel on your circular saw to 33 degrees, nail the 1x6 board to the sawhorses, mark the width and make the cut. Check the back slats and horizontal supports with a framing square to make sure theyre positioned 90 degrees to each other as you glue and screw the assembly (Photo 2). Once the back is fastened, turn the back assembly over, mark the top radius and trim it with a jigsaw (Photo 3).
FRONT LEG
4
FRONT SEAT SUPPORT NOTCH
CUT and notch the front legs (E) with a jigsaw. Then glue and screw the front seat support into the notches.
ASSEMBLED FRONT OF CHAIR
BACK LEGS
Screw the chair frame together on a flat, level surface

Using your jigsaw, cut the notches on parts E as shown in Fig. A. Glue and screw the front seat support (D) to the front legs (Photo 4). Next set the front assembly vertically on your workbench and glue and screw the back legs B to the front legs (Photo 5). Again, drill pilot and countersink holes for each screw. Next glue and screw the arm supports to the outer sides of the front legs (E). More ADIRONDACK CHAIR
CLAMP the back legs (B) to the front assembly to accurately position them. Work on a flat workbench surface so the chair wont wobble. Apply glue, drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in. deck screws.
EQUAL FRONT TO BACK
6
ARMS
ARM SUPPORTS 24" BAR CLAMP
GLUE and screw on the arm supports (K). Then glue and screw the arms to the front legs and arm supports. Use clamps to position the arms so they overhang the insides of the front legs by 1/4 in.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
JUNE 2001
79
Adirondack chair
6" BAR CLAMPS
LOWER BACK LEG SUPPORT
BACK ASSEMBLY
1/4" WIDE GAPS SEAT SLATS
8 7
GLUE, clamp and screw the lower back leg support (M) to the back legs first. Then glue and clamp the back assembly, first to the back legs, then to the arm supports. Drill pilot and countersink holes for the screws.
PREDRILL all the pilot and countersink holes in the seat slats before you position them. Screw the seat slats (J) to the back legs with 1-1/4 in. deck screws (use 1-5/8 in. screws in softwood), spacing them 1/4 in. apart.
Painting tips
We used an exterior, oil-based primer and an enamel topcoat, but you could use water-based products instead. Painting tools Youll need three paint brushes: a 2-in. wide, natural-bristle sash brush; a 1-in. wide sash brush; and a 1/2-in. wide hobby paint brush. Youll also need one 3-in. wide paint roller, two disposable roller heads and one disposable paint tray. Applying the primer Start with the chair upside down on your workbench. Use the 1-in. wide paint brush for the edges of the seat slats, making long brush strokes to spread the primer. Do the remainder of these edges from the topside later. Now use the roller to apply the primer to the flat surfaces. Use the 2-in. wide brush to feather out the rolled-on paint. Continue priming the back of the seat back, then the front, and finally the top of the arms and the seat. When the chair is upright, use the small hobby brush to apply the primer to the large, flat surfaces way down in between the slats. Let the primer dry overnight. Applying the topcoat Use a paint scraper to remove any runs, then lightly sand the dry primer with 120-grit sandpaper. Apply the topcoat in a shaded area, using the same sequence as you did with the primer. Note: The paint gets sticky fast. Pour only small amounts of paint into the paint tray. Let the paint dry for at least three days before using the chair.
Position the arms on the tops of the front legs and the arm supports (K). Make sure the arms hang 3 in. over the front leg and 1/4 in. over the inside edge of each leg. Before you fasten the arms, make sure theyre parallel (Photo 6). Screw the back leg support (M) to each leg (see Fig. A) and then set the back assembly into the frame and clamp it in place (Photo 7). Make sure the back of each arm projects 3/4 in. past the center back support (L). Glue and predrill each joint, screw the assembly together and then remove the clamps. To finish the assembly, predrill and countersink holes in the ends of the seat slats. Position them approximately 1/4 in. apart and screw them to the back legs as shown. Use a power screwdriver where possible, and a hand screwdriver in tight places.
Art Direction BARBARA PEDERSON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE and PHIL LEISENHEIMER Illustrations GENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE
80
Project Facts
I COST: $145 I TIME: 8 to 10 hours plus painting time I SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate I SPECIAL TOOLS: Jigsaw, circular saw, drill, hacksaw, table saw (or just access to one).
Porch Swing
Kick back and relax with this fun-to-build weekend project by David Radtke
he smooth, gentle glide of this porch swing will keep you daydreaming for hours. In fact, you may lose your ambition for good! The swings simple cuts and no-hassle glue and screw assembly techniques make it a great first-time woodworking project. You can build it in a weekend for about $145. We designed the swing with a unique suspension system made from ordinary 1/2-in. black steel pipe (commonly used for gas piping) slipped through the swing frame to act as a cradle and eliminate stress on wood joints. Eye bolts are then fastened through the steel pipe and covered by soft rubber caps to prevent scrapes. The swing assembly is then supported with welded steel chain, securely fastened to solid framing in the porch roof. More PORCH SWING
53
CAUTION: Swings are inherently dangerous for small children. This swing moves slowly, but it has hard edges that can give a nasty bump. Kids will love this swing, but never let small children play around it unattended.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MARCH 2002
Porch Swing Shopping List

ITEM
1x6 x 8' boards (poplar) 1x4 x 8' boards (poplar) 1-1/4" galvanized deck screws 1-5/8" galvanized deck screws 1/2" black pipe 56" long 1/2" black pipe 51" long (no threads on pipe) Construction adhesive Pilot hole/countersink bit 3/16" welded, zinc-plated chain
QTY.
7 3 2 lbs. 2 lbs. 1 1 4-oz. tube 1 17" 8
1x4 F G
2-1/4" quick-link eyes
Cutting List
KEY PCS.
2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 9 2 2
SIZE & DESCRIPTION

3/4" x 5-1/2" x 17-1/2" side seat braces 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 15-1/2" center seat braces 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 10-1/2" front arm braces 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 43" front stringer 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 40" rear stringer 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 40" lower back brace 3/4" x 2-5/16" x 43" center back brace 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 40-1/2" top back brace 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 35" center back slats 3/4" x 2-11/16" x 35" back slats 3/4" x 1-13/16" x 35" tapered back slats 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 10-1/2" arm supports (waste from parts P) 3/4" x 3" x 22-1/4" horizontal arm supports 3/4" x 2-11/16" x 41-1/2" seat slats 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 27" arms 1/2" (13/16" outside diameter) x 56" black steel pipe 1/2" (13/16" outside diameter) x 51" black steel pipe
SET your saw at 27-1/2 degrees and rip the pieces that make the center and top back supports. If you dont have a table saw, ask the lumberyard or a well-equipped neighbor to help.
A1 A2 B
The only special tools needed are a table saw and a pilot hole/countersink combination bit
While your work ethic is still intact, round up the following tools: a circular saw, drill with bits and screwdriver attachment, jigsaw, tape measure, square, pencil, power sander, hacksaw and an adjustable wrench. Youll also need access to a table saw. If youre a rst-timer, be aware that youll need to predrill holes for every screw so you wont split the wood or bust the screw shaft. To make this process easier, buy a special combination bit that can do both in one operation and has a driver on the opposite end (see Buyers Guide, p. 62).
Pick knot-free boards
C D E F G H J K L
Knots can weaken a board and spell disaster, especially on furniture. Also, stay away from cedar, redwood and soft pine for this project. Theyll mar easily and wont hold screws as well as other, denser woods. Excellent choices are fir, Southern yellow pine, cypress, poplar, white oak and maple. Oak and maple are harder to cut, sand, drill and screw, so if youre a first-timer, avoid them. I chose poplar because its strong, readily available, easy to work and takes paint well.
Measure each piece carefully
M N P Q
2 6 2 1
Cut all the parts to the dimensions in the Cutting List. Using a table saw, make 1x3s from your 1x6s (see Cutting List). Then notch the front arm supports as shown in Fig. A. Draw the curved shapes (parts A and P) onto hardboard as shown in Photo 2 and trace them onto boards, or simply More PORCH SWING
54
FIG. A
PORCH SWING DETAILS
3/16" WELDED STEEL CHAIN 16-1/2" (ADJUST FOR FIT) 25" (ADJUST FOR FIT)
J K QUICK-LINK EYES
J J J J J J K G
H 1-1/4" SCREWS FOR BACK SLATS
H F P M P L B N
M NOTCH FOR C 7/8" DIA. HOLE C A1 1/2" I.D. BLACK PIPE 1-5/8 DECK SCREWS A D L 1/4" EYE BOLT (TRIM FLUSH WITH NUT)
1-3/4 TO CENTER
1-1/8 TO CENTER
1-5/8" SCREWS (TYPICAL)
2-1/2" PAN HEAD SCREW
THESE ARE NOTCHES FOR C
3/4" RUBBER CAP
CUT HERE FOR A2
A1 AND A2 62-1/2 DEGREES EACH SQUARE EQUALS 1 SQ. INCH L P
K K
7/8" DIA. HOLE
1-1/2 TO CENTER
3/4 TO CENTER
55
Porch Swing
draw the 1-in. square grids directly onto the pieces. Cut them out with your jigsaw and sand the curves smooth with 100-grit sandpaper. Drill 7/8-in. diameter holes with a sharp spade bit into parts A for the front pipe hanger. Cut the center and top horizontal back braces (parts F and G) from 1x4s as shown in Photo 1. A table saw works best, but if youre an ace with a circular saw, you can set your saw bevel, tack the 1x4 to the tops of your sawhorses to keep the board from moving, and then saw along a line right down the length of the board. Next, mark a diagonal taper onto a 1x3 as shown in Fig. A to make the two outer slats (K) from this single piece. Cut along the line with your jigsaw, then use a block plane to smooth the cut edge. Set the seat assembly aside.
Assemble the swing on a temporary workbench
SEAT SUPPORTS A1
FULL-SIZE TEMPLATE MADE FROM FIG. A
CLAMP the seat support parts to the workbench to keep them from wandering while you cut the curves. Follow the pattern in Fig. A to accurately copy the curves for the seat frames as well as the arms. Sand along the curves after cutting.
FRONT STRINGER
B GALVANIZED DECK SCREWS FRONT ARM SUPPORT COMBINATION PILOT/COUNTERSINK BIT
NOTCH the front arm supports with a jigsaw to accept the front stringer (C). Drill pilot and countersink holes and apply a dab of construction adhesive at each joint. Fasten with 1-5/8 in. deck screws.
Create a large work surface by laying a sheet of plywood across sawhorses (Photo 7). Glue and screw the front stringer (C) to the front arm braces (B). Next, fasten this assembly to the seat braces (A1 and A2) and rear stringer (D) to complete the seat frame assembly (Photo 4). Drill through the front arm braces (B) with your 7/8-in. drill bit after youve glued and screwed the side seat braces to them (Photo 4). These two holes will complete the pathway for the front pipe support (Q). After you assemble the arm braces, stringers and seat braces, glue and screw the curved front arm supports (L) to the sides of B as shown in Fig. A. Assemble the back as shown in Fig. A and Photo 5. Cut 1/4-in. More PORCH SWING
56
Porch Swing
spacers from scrap wood (1/4-in. plywood pieces are perfect) to help maintain consistent spacing. Start at the center and work out to the sides. When you get to the fourth slat on each side, check your spacing; you may need to adjust it so the outer edge of the tapered slat (K) is ush with the end of the lower back brace (E). Now its time to cut the curves on the back assembly. Make a simple beam compass from a scrap of wood as shown in Photo 6. Flip the backrest assembly over, use your beam compass to mark the curves and cut along the mark with a jigsaw. With the backrest assembly in this position, measure and mark a 2-1/2 in. line parallel to the bottom edge (Photo 7). Grab the seat frame assembly you built earlier and finesse it onto the backrest assembly (Photo 7).
TRACE ALIGNMENT ANGLE MARK HERE
REAR STRINGER (D)
A1 A2 A1 B SEAT SUPPORTS C
7/8" HOLE
Why construction adhesive?

Buy a small tube of construction adhesive for this outdoor project. We used Liquid Nails brand LN-600 because its waterproof and resilient. Construction adhesive will help your porch swing stand up to both weather and stress. The small tube shown is the same stuff as in the larger caulk-gun sized tubes but is less cumbersome for a smaller project like the swing. Apply a small bead at every joint. If the glue oozes slightly, let the excess harden and then scrape it off with a sharp putty knife or wood chisel.
TRACE the angle of the center seat brace (A2) onto each side brace to get the proper positioning of the rear stringer (D) fastening points. Again, drill pilot holes and glue and screw the seat braces to the front stringer and the front arm braces. Next, glue and screw the rear stringer to the seat braces.
LAY all the back slats face down on a at surface and slip temporary 1/4-in. spacers between the slats. Fasten the bottom brace (E) to the middle slat, using a framing square to make sure theyre joined at 90 degrees.
1/4" SPACERS E 12-1/2 28
58
Porch Swing
Its crucial to align the rear seat frame stringer (D) to the 2-1/2 in. line on the backrest so the rest of the assembly will fit together. Drill 7/8-in. holes in the horizontal arm supports (M) to the exact dimensions shown in Fig. A. Then glue and screw these pieces to the front arm braces (B) and the center back brace (F; Photo 8). Next, glue and screw the seat slats to the seat braces. Start in the back and leave approximately a 3/16-in. space between each piece. Trim the last slat to overhang the front stringer 1/2 in. Plane the transition piece on the curve of the seat (Photo 10) and at the leading edge of the front seat slat for maximum comfort.
Dont skimp on the hardware
TRACE the top curves on the front side of the back assembly using a simple homemade beam compass. Nail one end of the compass 14 in. from the top and in the center of the 1x6 back slat. Insert your pencil into the 1/4-in. hole drilled in the other end of the compass. Cut along the mark with your jigsaw.
1/4" HOLE DRILLED AT 14" FROM NAIL NO. 4 FINISH NAIL
CENTER OF BOARD
HANG the lower part of the back assembly over the edge of the work surface to make room as you slide the seat assembly onto it. Align the rear stringer of the seat assembly with a mark drawn 2-1/2 in. from the bottom of the back assembly. Glue the joint, then clamp and screw the assemblies together.
A2
BACK ASSEMBLY
A1
CLAMP
D
ALIGNED WITH MARK 2-1/2" UP FROM BOTTOM
Buy oversize (3/16-in. or 1/4-in. thick) chain with welded links for good looks and safety. Also buy 1/4-in. threaded eyebolts along with thread-locking compound to keep the nuts from working loose. The quick-link eyes (Photo 11) are indispensable for linking chain quickly. Buy your black pipe at a hardware store and have it cut to exact lengths without threaded ends. Now, test-fit the pipe, chain and connecting links to the wooden assembly (Fig. A). Its a good time to discover any glitches and correct them before you paint. Slide the pipes through the holes in the seat frame and along the back, leaving an equal amount exposed on each side. Mark the hole locations in the pipes to lock them to the swing (Photo 9 and Fig. A). Drill 3/16-in. diameter holes for the sheet metal lockscrews and 9/32-in. diameter screws for the More PORCH SWING
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MARCH 2002
59
FIG. B
PORCH SWING END VIEW
P B G
A1
M F
7/8" DIA. HOLE
eye bolts. Angle the eye bolts slightly toward the center of the swing to minimize the torque on the pipe and prevent the lockscrews from breaking. Remember, this swing could be holding 400 lbs. or more, so you must anchor the swings chain with 1/2-in.-shaft screw eyes screwed at least 2 in. into solid framing as shown in Fig. C. Also, distribute the weight to more than one ceiling joist by screwing a pair of 2x4s 54 in. apart and then inserting the screw eyes into the 2x4s.
Ease the wood edges with sandpaper before you paint
Remove the chains and pipes to paint the wood assembly. Sand the pipes (see Shopping List, p. 54) with 100-grit sandpaper, then wipe them down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Let the mineral spirits evaporate off the surfaces, then spray-paint the pipes with exterior primer followed by an exterior enamel. Sand the wood parts with 100grit sandpaper, paying particular attention to the arms and the More PORCH SWING
60
MARCH 2002
Porch Swing
CURVED ARM SUPPORT (L)
HORIZONTAL ARM SUPPORT (M)
1/2" ROUND FILE
APPLY GLUE TO JOINT
REAR SUPPORT PIPE
CUT and drill the pipes (Fig. A) and slide them into the holes. File the inside of the 7/8-in. hole in the arm support (M) with a coarse half-round file if the support pipe wont easily slide through. The rear support pipe should fit snugly under the center back brace (F) as it protrudes through each arm support.
TOP
CENTER BACK SUPPORT (F) 2" NO. 8 SHEET METAL SCREW
CENTER BACK SLAT

1/2" STEEL PIPE
DRILL a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the rear support pipe, then screw a 2-in. No. 8 sheet metal screw (use a 1/8-in. pilot hole) up into the center back support. This connection will keep the pipe from sliding to one side while the swing is swinging.
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
MARCH 2002
61
Porch Swing
ARM (P)
ARM (P)
SEAT SLATS (N)
BLOCK PLANE
HANG the swing securely using special quick-link eyes to join the lengths of chain. The swing should tip back slightly at the arms (about 1 in. from back to front) when the swing is at rest.
1 1
CUT BOLT FLUSH WITH NUT
BLEND EDGES AT TRANSITION
PLANE FRONT EDGE
10
FIG. C
SHAVE OFF any high spots in the seat slats with a block plane. Because the seat is curved, the slat edges can ride high at certain points, making for a less-than-comfortable ride later.
HANGING DETAIL
SCREW a length of 2x4 into solid framing to support each chain. Be sure to use 4-in. long lag screws and span at least three ceiling joists.
PORCH CEILING JOISTS
3/4" CEILING BOARD 2x4 MUST SPAN 3 JOISTS
edges of the seat and back. Softer edges will be safer and more comfortable and hold paint better. Wipe off the dust and vacuum the swing. Youll make better time if you roll (use a small 4-in. roller) on a good-quality primer and follow it up with a brush to even the coat. Use the brush to paint between the slats and then look for runs and drips coming through the other side. Use oil-based primer (or waterbased if you prefer), then lightly sand the swing the next day with 150-grit sandpaper. Choose the best polyurethane exterior paint you can nd and apply it using the same roller and brush technique. Let the paint cure for a couple of days before you rehang the swing. Note: During the final assembly, squirt thread-locking compound on the eye bolt threads. Be sure to cut the eye bolts flush with the nuts for safety.
Buyers Guide
The Drill Drive Accessory System, which offers quick-change drilling and driving, is available at most hardware stores and home centers. If you cant nd one, call (800) 4DeWalt or visit the Web site www.dewalt.com. Liquid Nails construction adhesive (LN-600) is available at most hardware stores and home centers. For more information, call (800) 6340015 or visit www.liquidnails.com.
3/8" CLOSED SCREW EYE (3" LONG)
1/4" LAG SCREWS (3-1/2" LONG)
Art Direction MARK JACOBSON Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Illustration BRUCE KIEFFER Project Design DAVID RADTKE
Layout MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE
62
Patio Chair
The ultimate easy chair: easy to build, easy to tote, easy to set up and store
hether youre staking out a curbside spot for watching a parade, heading to the woods for a weekend or simply trying to catch a few rays, youll love the portability and comfort of this chair. Interlocking legs and gravity keep the two sections together when in use. And when its time to pull up stakes, the seat section tucks neatly inside the back. A handle cutout in the top slat makes for easy carrying and storing too.
What it takes
by David Radtke
We made our chair from cedar because its lightweight, but you could use cypress, r, treated or other decay-resistant woods. We didnt want knots weakening the legs or seat, so we spent about $75 for knot-free D-grade cedar. Youll need basic tools: a jigsaw, drill, Phillips bit, le, combination square, carpenters square and screwdriver, plus a table saw and belt sander. If you dont own these last two tools, borrow them (or use this project as an excuse to add a few more tools to your workshop). More PATIO CHAIR
This is a completely updated version of a popular story rst run in April 95.
81
Patio Chair
HARDBOARD
Building one chair takes about eight hours. But once youre jigged up and have your patterns made, building additional ones only takes an hour or two more each.
Make the patterns (by connecting the dots or with a photocopier)
MEASURE AND MARK 1-in. increments on both ends and one side of the hardboard. Then draw grid lines using a combination square, straightedge and ne-point permanent marker. Or, if you like, you can use the photocopy method explained on this page.
1
GRID LINES COMBINATION SQUARE
The backrest and seat support struts must be the exact length and shape for the chair to set up and nest for storage properly. You can ensure accuracy two ways: You can place the strut grid (p. 85) on a photocopier, then enlarge it until the squares are exactly 1 in. On our ofce machine, that meant rst enlarging the grid 2x, taking that copy and enlarging it 2x, then taking that copy and enlarging it 1.30x. We taped two pieces of 8-1/2 x 11 paper
together lengthwise to create the 18-in. long pattern. Every machine is slightly different, so make sure the nal grid is 18 in., and 18 squares, long. Then cut it out to create your pattern or use carbon paper to transfer the shape to your wood. A second way is to use the transfer grid method (Photos 1 4). The shapes in Fig. A on p. 85 are drawn on a scaled-down grid. Draw a fullsize grid of 1-in. squares on hardboard (Photo 1) and transfer the shapes to it; youll have a template you can use over and over.
Weve drawn only half of the backrest and seat struts on our grids because the halves are symmetrical. Make one template for half of the shape, then ip it to draw the other half. Since the shapes of the seat and backrest struts are so similar, you can make only the backrest strut template, then use it to draw the seat strut pieces, making them More PATIO CHAIR
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
SEPTEMBER 2001
83
Patio Chair
seat struts are 1/4 in. skinnier and 2 in. shorter than the backrest struts.
Putting it all together
POINTS THAT INTERSECT THE GRID
TO DEVELOP the pattern, transfer the points to your hardboard grid where the shape intersects the grid lines in the drawing.
1/4 in. narrower and 1 in. shorter (2 in. shorter overall). To use the template, align it to centerlines drawn on the boards (Photo 4), trace around it, then ip it over the centerline and trace the rest of the shape. Remember, the
Cut all the pieces to the dimensions given in the Cutting List, using the templates for the legs and the top slat. Cut out the shapes with a jigsaw, then sand the pieces with a belt sander (Photo 5). Lay out the hand grip hole in the top slat (C), then cut it out using a jigsaw and spade bit (Photo 6). Youll need to rip the back and seat slats 2 in. wide using a table saw. Lay out, countersink and drill all the screw holes for the slats and supports. Finish-sand all the pieces with 120-grit, then 150-grit sandpaper. Round over the sharp edges with the sandpaper.
Screw the two seat supports (D) and curved top slat to the backrest struts (Photo 7) using the spacing given in Fig. A. Then attach the ve slats to the backrest struts and six slats to the seat struts (Photo 8).
Finishing touches
Before applying the nish, unscrew the two seat supports and apply weather-resistant glue (like Titebond II or Gorilla Glue) to the joints, then rescrew the seat supports to the backrest struts. The glue will strengthen the joint. The chair relies primarily on these seat supports for strength. Brush on two liberal coats of a penetrating exterior wood sealer (like Thompsons Water Seal). Let the rst coat dry for 24 hours, then More PATIO CHAIR
84
Patio Chair
1/2" RADIUS CORNERS CENTERLINE (C)
PIECE (A) SHAPE OF BACK LEG BACKREST TEMPLATE
DRAW lines connecting the points made on the grid. Use a smooth, arcing arm movement to draw the gradual curve. Use a quarter to trace the 1/2-in. radiuses at the bottom of the leg. Use a jigsaw to cut out the pattern.
ALIGN the backrest strut template to the centerline and bottom edge of the cedar piece and trace the shape. Flip the template along the centerline to draw the other half. Cut out the pieces with a jigsaw.
4
C L
FIG. A
PATIO CHAIR DETAILS
B
10" 1/2"
Cutting List for Chair

KEY
A
PCS. SIZE & DESCRIPTION

2 2 1 2 11 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 36" cedar (backrest struts) 1-1/2" x 4-15/16" x 34" cedar (seat struts) 3/4" x 4" x 20" cedar (top slat) 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20" cedar (seat supports) 3/4" x 2" x 20" cedar (slats)
C
1/2" (TYP.)
B C D
E E
2-1/2" 3/4"
20"
3-3/4" 1/2" (TYP.)
D CHAIR E B D C
12-1/2" 1/2"
A E
16" SEAT HEIGHT
1-3/4"
SEAT ASSEMBLY
BACKREST ASSEMBLY
16-1/2"
Shopping List for Chair

I
EACH SQ.=1"
2 pieces of 2x6 x 8' D and better grade cedar 2 pieces of 1x6 x 8' D and better grade cedar 1 piece of 1/8" x 24" x 48" hardboard (for templates) Eighty 2" galvanized deck screws 1 pint of Thompsons Water Seal nish Glue
TOP SLAT GRID
C L
A
4-15/16" 5-1/2" 1/2" RAD.
B
2-1/2" 2-3/4
2-1/2"
2-3/4
EACH SQ.=1"
BACKREST AND SEAT STRUT GRID
C L
More PATIO CHAIR

85
BELT SANDER
SHAPE CUT WITH JIGSAW
Patio Chair
1" DIA. SPADE BIT DEPTH STOP FLAG
TOP SLAT (C) HANDSCREW CLAMP
SAND the edges of the curved pieces with a belt sander. If you dont have a bench vise, you can support the legs with a handscrew clamp while you sand.
DRILL the ends of the hand grip holes with a 1-in. dia. spade bit. Drill partway in from both sides so you wont tear out the wood.
BACKREST STRUTS (A)
CARPENTERS SQUARE
GALVANIZED DECK SCREWS 1/2" THICK SPACER SLATS (E)
SEAT SUPPORT (D)
USE a carpenters square to align the seat supports 90 degrees to the backrest struts, then glue and screw them in place. Use both glue and screws to attach the slats, too.
ATTACH the slats to the seat struts using a 1/2-in. thick spacer to align them. Finish driving the screws by hand to avoid setting their heads too deep.
apply the second coat. After an hour, wipe off any excess nish. Let the nish dry for a couple of days before using the chair. After a year or two, youll want to recoat the chairs to keep them looking good. If you decide to paint the chairs instead, use an oil-based primer followed by a semigloss oil-based paint. Dont use a clear varnish; the sun will eventually break it
down and youll be renishing every summer instead of relaxing. Set up the chair by sliding the seat struts through the backrest struts and seat supports as shown in the photos on p. 81. Push the seat in all the way so the rear seat slat is rmly against the backrest struts. Then kick back and relax!
Art Direction HOPE FAY Lead Photos MIKE KRIVIT How-to Photos BILL ZUEHLKE Technical Art EUGENE THOMPSON
Tip
Cedar is soft, so when screwing the pieces together, nish driving the screws by hand to avoid setting their heads too deep.
86
G E T R E A DY F O R S U M M E R !
3-hour cedar bench

Build it for 70 bucks in one afternoon!
by Travis Larson
he beauty of this cedar bench isnt just that its easy to assemble and inexpensiveits that its so doggone comfortable.You can comfortably sit on your custom-fit bench for hours,
even without cushions. In this story, well show you how to build the bench and how to adjust it for maximum comfort. Sloping the back and the seat is the secret to pain-
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 20 03
53
Cedar Garden Bench
LEG BRACE
BACK LEG
3"
GUIDE SQUARE
3" DECK SCREWS
1/2" FRONT LEG
Cut out the bench parts following the measurements in Figure A. Use a square to guide the circular saw for accurate, square cuts. Cut 45-degree angles on the ends of the seat and back supports 1 in. down from the ends as shown (also see Photos 4 and 5).
Fasten the leg brace to the legs 3 in. above the bottom ends. Angle the 3-in. screws slightly to prevent the screw tips from protruding through the other side. Hold the brace 1/2 in. back from the front edge of the front leg. Use a square to make sure the brace and legs are at exact right angles.
free perching on unpadded flat boards. But not all bodies are the same, and its a rare piece of furniture that everyone agrees is seatworthy. This bench has a bolted pivot point where the back and seat meet that lets you alter the backrest and seat slopes to fit your build during one of the final assembly steps (Photo 10). The materials will cost about $70, and cutting and assembly will only take about three hours. Follow the step-by-step photo series for details on the simple construction.
SECOND FRONT LEG
REAR LEG
Build it from eight 8-ft. long boards and a handful of fasteners

A circular saw and a screw gun are the only power tools you really need for construction, although a power miter saw will speed things up and give you cleaner cuts. Begin by cutting the boards to length. Figure A shows you how to cut up the eight boards efficiently, leaving little waste. When youre picking out the wood at the lumberyard, choose boards that above all are flat, not twisted. Thats especially important for the seat and back parts. Dont worry so much about the leg assembly 2x4s because you cut them into such short pieces that warps and twists arent much of a concern.
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1/2"
FIRST FRONT LEG
Align the second part of the front leg with the first one using a square and screw it to the leg brace as shown.
Cedar Garden Bench

BACKREST SUPPORT
FLUSH WITH END (SEE PHOTO 6) SECOND FRONT LEG

2" -1/ 18
90 0
1" 1"
SEAT SUPPORT
LEG BRACE
FLUSH CORNERS
Slip the seat support between the two front legs, positioning it as shown. Drive a single 3-in. screw through the front leg into the seat support.
5
ITEM
1x3 x 8' cedar 2x10 x 8' cedar 2x4 x 8' cedar
Position the backrest support on the leg assembly as shown, making sure its at a right angle with the seat support, and mark the position on the seat support. Then drive a 3-in. screw through the middle of the backrest support into the leg brace.
Figure A Bench Parts
Shopping List
QTY.
2 1 5
ITEM
3" deck screws 6d galv. casing nails 3/8" x 5" bolts with nuts and washers
QTY.
1 lb. 1/4 lb. 2
1x3 x 8' (SCRIBE TO FIT)
BACKREST END TRIM
SEAT END TRIM
SEAT BACK TRIM
24" SEAT BOARD
22"
50" WASTE BACKREST BOARD
2x10 x 8'
SEAT BOARD 2x4 x 8' SEAT BOARD 47" STRETCHER 35" BACKREST SUPPORT 28"
BACKREST BOARD BACKREST BOARD 47" BACKREST SUPPORT 28"
FRONT LEG
FRONT LEG
REAR LEG
LEG BRACE
SEAT SUPPORT
FRONT LEG 14"
FRONT LEG 14"
REAR LEG 11-1/2"
LEG BRACE 18"
SEAT SUPPORT 20-1/2"
THE FAMILY HANDYMAN
APRIL 20 03
55
Cedar Garden Bench
RIGHT LEG ASSEMBLY

18-1/2"
LEFT LEG ASSEMBLY
3/8" x 5" PIVOT BOLT 3 STRETCHER
FLUSH AT CORNER
Clamp the backrest support, seat support and rear leg as shown using the line as a guide. Drill a 3/8-in. hole through the center of the assembly. Drive a 3/8-in. x 5-in. bolt fitted with a washer through the hole and slightly tighten the nut against a washer on the other side.
Assemble the other leg assembly to mirror the first as shown. (The back support and rear leg switch sides.) Prop the stretcher 3 in. above the workbench, center it between the front and rear bench legs and screw the leg braces into the ends with two 3-in. deck screws.
After cutting the pieces to length, screw together the leg assemblies (Photos 2 6). Its important to use a square to keep the leg braces square to the legs (Photo 2). That way both leg assemblies will be identical and the bench wont wobble if its put on a hard, flat surface. We spaced the leg brace 1/2 in. back from the front of the legs to create a more attractive shadow line. Then its just a matter of connecting the leg assemblies with the stretcher (Photo 7), screwing down the seat and backrest boards, and adjusting the slopes to fit your body. The easiest way to adjust the slope is to hold the four locking points in place with clamps and then back out the temporary screws (Photo 10). To customize the slopes, you just loosen the clamps, make the adjustments, retighten and test the fit. When youre satisfied, run a couple of permanent screws into each joint. If you dont have clamps, dont worryyoull just have to back out the screws, adjust the slopes, reset the screws and test the bench. Clamps just speed up the process.
PENCIL SPACER
FIRST BOARD
FLUSH EDGES
Round over the edges

We show an option of rounding over the sharp edge of the 1x3 trim, which is best done with a router and a 1/2-in. round-over bit (Photo 12). Rounding over the edges can protect shins and the backs of thighs and leave
Center the first 2x4 seat board over the leg assemblies and flush with the front ends of the seat supports. Screw it to the seat supports with two 3-in. deck screws spaced about 1 in. away from the edges. Line up the 2x10 with the first 2x4, space it about 5/16 in. away (the thickness of a carpenters pencil) and screw it to the seat supports with two 3-in. deck screws. Repeat with the rear 2x4.
56
Cedar Garden Bench
A bench with a past

About 15 years ago, I decided to throw together some simple outdoor benches so my growing family could relax outside and enjoy the yard. But they had to be better looking and more comfortable than the flat benches they were replacing. I wanted them to feel more like a chair, be light enough to move around easily and stand up to the elements. After much experimentation, I came up with a version of this design and used it to make three benches. At times theyll be arranged around the fire ring, or for larger social gatherings, placed on the patio or deck. Most often, however, all three encircle the herb garden, our favorite outdoor hangout. After all those years without any shelter or finish, the benches are showing their age. The crisp, new look has long passed, now replaced with puppy teeth marks, a few cracks, a deep gray hue and even some rot at the bottom of the feet. But theyre still as sturdy and comfortable as the day they were made. This new version has a few improved features. I wanted to make it easier to build (no fancy angles and fewer parts), even more comfortable (adjustable to fit), and even more durable (the feet bottoms are sealed). If you come up with other innovations or a better design, drop me a note. Travis
FLUSH EDGES
Rest the bottom backrest 2x4 on carpenters pencils, holding the end flush with the seat boards and screw it to the seat back braces. Then space and screw on the center 2x10 and the top 2x4 backrest boards.
teetering toddlers with goose eggs on their melons instead of gashes. So the step is highly recommended. If you dont have a router, round over the edge either by hand-sanding or with an orbital or belt sander. In any event, keep the casing nails 1 in. away from the edge to prevent hitting the nailheads with the router bit or sandpaper (Photo 12).
Building a longer bench

We demonstrate how to build a 4-ft. long bench, plenty of space for two. But you can use the same design and techniques for building 6- or 8-ft. long benches too.Youll just have to buy longer boards for the seat, back, stretcher and the trim boards. While youre at it, you can use the same design for matching end or coffee tables. Just match the double front leg design for the rear legs, and build flattopped leg assemblies with an overall depth of 16-3/4 in.
58
Cedar Garden Bench
FLUSH
BACKREST TRIM BOARD
SCRIBE BACKSIDE SEAT TRIM BOARD LOOSEN PIVOT BOLT CLAMP LOCK POINTS
FLUSH
10
Sit on the bench and decide if youd like to tilt the seat or the backrest or both to make the bench more comfortable. To make seat or back adjustments, loosen the bolts and clamp the bottoms of the seat back supports and the fronts of the seat supports. Then back out the four screws at those points. Loosen the clamps, make adjustments, then retighten and retest for comfort. When youre satisfied with the fit, drive in the four original screws plus another at each point. Retighten the pivot bolts.
11
Tack the seat trim boards to the seat with the ends flush with the front and top. Scribe and cut the trim boards to fit. Nail the boards to the seat and backrest boards with 6d galvanized casing nails, keeping the nails 1 in. back from the seat edges.
Seal the legs to make it last

If you want to stain your bench, use a latex exterior stain on the parts after cutting them to length. After assembly, you wont be able to get good penetration at the cracks and crevices. Avoid clear exterior sealers, which will irritate bare skin. But the bench will last outside for more than 20 years without any stain or special care even if you decide to let it weather to a natural gray. However, the legs wont last that long because the end grain at the bottom will wick up moisture from the ground, making the legs rot long before the bench does. To make sure the legs last as long as the bench, seal the ends with epoxy, urethane or exterior woodworkers glue when youre through with the assembly.
Art Direction MARCIA WRIGHT ROEPKE Photography BILL ZUEHLKE
TURN ROUTER SIDEWAYS HERE
1/2" ROUND-OVER BIT
12
60
Ease the edges of the trim boards with a router and a 1/2-in. round-over bit. Hold the router sideways to get at the seat/back corner.
56
Adirondack chair
and love seat
The comfortable
by David Radtke
Finally, outdoor furniture thats easy to get in and out of
his chair and love seat combo is just perfect for outdoor lounging. The seat has a nice curved recess to conform to your body, and wide arms to hold your favorite snack and drink. And because the seat doesnt slope steeply downward like on a traditional Adirondack chair, even your grandfather will be able to help himself out without a boost. You wont need an arsenal of power tools to build this furniture. In fact, youll only need a circular saw, a drill and simple hand
tools. Ive designed this project for simplicity as well: With a bit of patience, even a novice can do a great job. The wood is pressure-treated pine, chosen for its low cost, high strength and longevity. And dont worry about the drab green look of treated wood.You can brush on an exterior oil or latex stain and give it a beautiful warm glow that makes it look more like mahogany or teak than treated pine. Figure on spending about $45 for the materials for the chair and about $65 for the love seat.
57
The comfortable Adirondack chair
10-1/2" 14"
PILOT COUNTERSINK DRILL BIT
STRETCHER 1-5/8" DECK SCREWS
A A
LEG TOP
TOP
FRONT LEG
Clamp the two front legs together, measure for the 3/4-in. deep notch and make repeated cuts with your circular saw set to 3/4-in. depth of cut. Chisel the pieces between the cuts and then file smooth.
Spread a light bead of construction adhesive into each notch and align the front stretcher (B) with the edge of the legs. Drill and screw the stretcher to the legs.
CUTOFF
(ARM SUPPORT)
ARM SUPPORT
D C
ARM
10-3/4"
2-1/2"
Mark the angle on the backside of each arm and cut the arms (C) and arm supports (D) with your circular saw.
Align the arm supports with the top and front edges of the legs, then drill and screw each front leg to the arm support with two 1-5/8 in. deck screws.
Select straight, knot-free, pressure-treated pine

Most outdoor wood furniture is made from cedar or expensive teak, but regular treated boards from your home center or lumberyard are perfect for this project. The trick is to select boards that are as straight and free of knots as you can nd. A few tight knots are OK, and if you spot a board that looks great except for a huge
loose knot, just cut it out and use the knot-free sections. Its a good idea to buy a couple of extra boards, just in case you end up cutting out more sections than youd planned. Also avoid boards that are still wet from the treatment process (theyll feel cool and damp) because they might warp or crack as they dry. Dont assume that the treated boards are dimensionally consistent.
58
When I got my lumber home, the boards varied by as much as 3/16 in. in width. These variations can screw up the assembly process, especially for the back slats, which require spacers to get an exact back width. Once you get the boards home and begin to cut the pieces, use the rip guide on your circular saw (or borrow a neighbors table saw) to trim them to the exact widths in the Cutting List.
Figure A Chair and love seat assembly

1" DEEP NOTCH: LOCATE POSITION FROM SLAT H3
1-1/2"
H3
H2 H1 H2 H3 H3 CUT TWO FROM ONE BOARD L L K H2
C L
H1
1/4" (TYP.)
26-1/2"
C F J
C
CUT END AT 23
14-1/4"
D E G M F
1-1/2"
Back assembly
H1 H2 H3
23
G
1-1/2"
C D
43 deg. 47
Chair
EACH SQ. = 1"
K J
A
3-1/2"
G
23
B A G
Seat brace pattern

h4 D
2-1/2"
Section view
h3 h2 l k h1 h2 h2 h1
47 43 deg.
h2
h3
1" 10-3/4"
f c e g j
3/4"
C
1/4"
3-1/2"
d A a m c g
1-1/2" 10-1/2"
g f b d a
Love seat
Arm pattern
Leg pattern
59
23-DEG. CUT
E
HORIZONTAL ARM SUPPORT

F
REAR LEG 90 DEG. CONSTRUCTION ADHESIVE
1-1/4" DECK SCREWS
SEAT BRACE
1-1/4" DECK SCREWS
Fasten the horizontal arm supports (E) at 90 degrees to the front legs. Then glue, drill and screw the rear legs to the arm supports, making sure the arm supports are parallel to the floor.
1-1/2"
Cut the seat supports (G) from 1x6 boards. Align the square front edge of the seat brace with the back of the front stretcher (B) and glue and screw them to the front and back legs.
TOP BACK BRACE
H3 H2 H1 H2 H3
CENTER
90 DEG. 1/4" SPACERS

K H3
TAPERED OUTER BACK SLAT 1-1/2"
CENTER BACK BRACE
14-1/4"
BOTTOM BACK BRACE
CENTER LINE
Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.
Set the back slats on a flat surface with 1/4-in. wide spacers. Center the back braces on the slats. Glue, drill and screw them with 1-1/4 in. deck screws.
Assemble the main frame

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and ne-tune it with a rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is at so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the correct
angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a pilot and countersink hole for each screw.You can buy a bit at your local hardware store that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Spacers make the back assembly a snap

To achieve the gentle taper of the back
60
assembly, youll need to taper the outer seat slat and cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The spacers
1-5/8" DECK SCREWS

J
ALIGN
1/4" SPACES BACK ASSEMBLY

K M
1-5/8" DECK SCREWS
1/4" DOWN FROM ARM SUPPORT NONSKID SURFACE
SEAT SLATS
Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm supports to the center back brace.
10
Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).
C E
ALIGN FLUSH TO MARK
NOTCH TO FIT AROUND BACK SLAT
1" DEEP NOTCH
11
Set the arm flush with the edge of the arm support (E), overhanging the front leg 1-1/2 in. Mark the arm where it meets the back slat.
12
Notch the arm with a handsaw and fasten it to the horizontal support, the top edge of the back legs and to the front leg and arm support with 1-5/8 in. screws and glue.
(Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the oor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure theyre perpendicular.Youll nd it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace with the center line drawn down the middle
back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 11/4 in. deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8. Once youve assembled the back, its time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the oor
62
under the chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As you align these assemblies, its critical to get the back of the seat braces ush with the outer back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into the center back brace (K)
Add a personal touch to your outdoor furniture

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.
Cutting List for Chair

KEY A B C D E F G H1 H2 QTY. 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 7 SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 21" front legs 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 23" front stretcher 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 27" arms 3/4" x 3" x 10-3/4" triangular arm supports 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 23-1/4" horizontal arm supports 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 34-1/2" rear legs 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 17-3/4" seat braces 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 35-3/4" center back slat 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 34-1/4" inner back slats 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 32-3/4" outer back slats (taper cut into two pieces) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 21-1/2" bottom back brace 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 23" center back brace 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 21-1/2" top back brace 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 21-1/2" seat slats
STEP BACK
GABLE BACK
ROUND BACK
H3 J K L M
Cutting List for Love Seat

KEY a b c d e f g h1
PIVOT NAIL
QTY. 2 1 2 2 2 2 3 2 4 1 1 1 1 1 7
SIZE & DESCRIPTION 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 21" front legs 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 43" front stretcher 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 27" arms 3/4" x 3" x 10-3/4" triangular arm supports 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 23-1/4" horizontal arm supports 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 34-1/2" rear legs 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 17-3/4" seat braces 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 35-3/4" back slats 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 34-1/4" back slats 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 32-3/4" outer back slat (taper cut into two pieces) 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 32-3/4" center back slat (trim to t) 3/4" x 3-1/2" x 41-1/2" bottom back brace 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 43" center back brace 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 41-1/2" top back brace 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 41-1/2" seat slats
h2 h3 h4 j k l m
Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in. radius with a homemade compass.
and then into the side of the outer back slat as well. With the completion of this phase, youll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in. deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just ush with the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the back assembly
rmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Brush on an exterior stain

Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
64
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through. Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This nish will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Photography BILL ZUEHLKE Art Direction BECKY PFLUGER Illustration EUGENE THOMPSON Project Design DAVID RADTKE

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