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Task. Compare the structure of a knitted jumper with that of a polyester fleece jacket. Describe the characteristics of each fabric.
This tasks requires you to formulate your own response, the answer is not found in the text book!
Weft knitted
Weft knitted fabric is made from a single yarn, which is fed across the width of the fabric. Weft knits are stretchy, they have a right and wrong side to the fabric. They may be prone to laddering
This kind of knitting produces comfortable, soft fabric that has a variable stretch depending on its structure.
Types of production
Hand knit, can be used to produce one off, designer knits: jumpers of cushions
http://vimeo.com/44718350 http://vimeo.com/20955663
A course is a horizontal row of loops, formed by the needles during one knitting cycle. A wale is a vertical column of loops formed by a single needle. The size of needle and the fineness of the yarn determines the density of the knit construction. The combination of loop size, fineness of yarn, width and length of fabric determines the weight of the fabric.
Single jersey
Rib fabrics
Are made with two sets of needles which are staggered. Alternate loops are knitted in the opposite direction to form vertical lines in the fabric. Most popular construction is 2x2, where both sides of the fabric look the same. The resulting fabric is very elastic widthways. Suitable for jumpers, waistcoats, underwear and socks.
Jacquard fabric
Has a patterned design in 3 or more colours. Its made by selecting needles to knit to a specified pattern using CAD systems. In each succeeding course, the pattern is built up and if the colour isnt needed it floats on the back. There is a limit to the length of floats, can you think why> Jacquard fabric isnt very stretchy This type of knitted fabric goes in and out of fashion for winterwear.
Warp knitted
Fabrics are made on circular or Straight CAD/CAM knitting machines. Each loop of fabric is fed by its own separate yarn.
Tricot
Is an industrial product warp knit, mostly using synthetic yarns. Each yarn works in a zig-zag fashion and its used for gloves, lingerie and light weight furnishings
Is a combination between tricot and 2x1 plain knit stitches. Made from a filament yarn. The fabric is lustrous fabric used for linings and underwear. The face of the fabric has vertical wales of loops and the back has characteristic zig-zags.
Locknit
Polar fleece
Made from acrylic or polyester or nylon, is a double boucle knit, where the fabric is heavily raised on one side or the other. Its light weight, has a high bulk, its very breathable and very warm. Its used as an insulating fabric in leisure wear and sportswear. NOT to be confused with a sheep's fleece
Task.
Make a collection of knitted fabrics, used for a range of end uses. Examine each fabric, try to identify the construction, is it warp of weft knitted? How many colours? What yarn has been used? Add your samples to the table for you Tech book, sketch construction and explain suitability for end use.
Sample
construction
Yarn used
End use