skin care and preparation great! uD. Tye been fortunate, through my work, to have met and developed close: relation eyedrops - ships with some of the world’s most knowledgeable and renovned beaaty expert (for iregular use only) What amazes me about these men and women is that not only are they al the pin Whitens and helps remove “gook” ——nacle of their professions, expertly trained and miracle workers in extreme case from eyes but that they are also wonderful people. This is the ease with Dr. Pat Wexler. He 7 sense of humor and easy manner, along with her qualifications, has made her on _moisturizingmask- of my favorite people and a favorite among top celebritics and models, who regular ior dry seek out her dermatological advice While there are some advanced cases of skin irritation or irregularity that migh require aggressive steps, there are many simple, sensible measures we ean appl towand better skin without much time commitment or trouble. for normal to dry complexions Personally, I love being in the sun so much that if | could broil myself like a st under sn open flame | would. However, | know from working with people's face that the sun has long-term effets that we just don’t want to deal with. Bein “kissed by the sun” is a great feeling: however, being mauled by the sun can caus irreparable damage, the least of which is wrinkles, the inost of which is melanon This is not to say the sun is all bad but that we must, as Dr Wexler puts it, practic Procting “sale sun” Always weara sunsereen and moisturize areas thal nequie i Funk from cotton swabs ~ can be used for blending mistakes and rernoug When asked about moisturizers, her answer debunked an old myth, Skin, she is the eye area, docs nat have a lock. Meaning, a duy eream i a night eream and a night cream # fr stray fibers from day cream, What is problemativally dry at 1:00A.M is the same amount and type ¢ fp in your eve) rouble at n:00PM. So finding a single product that works well for you is all that i needled merning, noon ad night. Also, “body-dipping” into a product isn't neces sary: apply it just 10 the areas where it's needed. Try not to be coerced into buyin things you won't use by the evermarketing of cosmetic and skinear® products (note: when us moisten to py Dr Wexler also says, in relation to skineare products, that we should expect an given application to work only for a certain period of time. Skincare és we comet | agery.The toner that evested a fresh, tight appearance yesterday moming has onl a lemporiry effect and today your face may need another splash. As another exam ile, skin blemish exeams may vanquish the pimple, but not necessarily the underly ing (iniernal) cause of aene-prone skin, Skin, tov, has a way of adapting ‘an responding with greater and lesser suecess) to the active ingredients of a produc Remember, skin is not static: While possibly appearing porcelain or alabaster, it not. 11 is constantly evolving itt relationship to what we eat drink, hoy we exerci how we sleep and how we feel. Kor thes rivizing, beauty trea ments and makeup needs should change as well. Change is good. astringent - jemoves excess oil pollution irom skin. Gaod for helping makeup last longer on those with oity complexions Therefore Dr. Wesler concludes, the best skincare tips are really about rest, die Fissese) and exercise, Our skin is an outward reflection of what is happening inside ow most tissue is 2ply-! seperate thogo bodies. So drinking large amounts of water Unroughout the day to clean up our ss into one sheet for blotting lics even! tems so that toxins don't build up: staying away rou dehydmating elements such & Also, 9600 fo” blotting o-based found alcohol and smoking; eating fonds that include fruits. grains and vegetables an tion and excess mascara fiom the wad getting some exercise thal keeps the blood moving through the most-looked-s ‘ongan of the body your ski. will help you to put your best fuer forward To the left ate some of the things you might want to have around betore, durin fg after, and even if you're not wearng makoup. Throughout this section of the boo ai Vl be showing you many of my favorte tools and products, However, these jem } are not brend spostic. | bolieva it is important that choices are made based on pe sonal taste, preference and desires.ILis very important that you know your own face as well as, possible. Take the keup| your eyes and feel for the structure and placement of the bones und have a good idea of what you eath.Once yc © working with physically, it becomes much easier to ‘enhance your overall appearance area eos Dr ce Se ee ne esd Pere mr ee soft and subtle without appearing oily. In fact, if used properly, and placed only where needed, it practica}ly disappears into the skin. Colors CGR eee ere eee a Years ago, foundation was used specifically to alter the color of the skin, re: “rosy glow.” But the trend of the last few years hhas taken us from what intentionally changed the wearer's natural coloring to products that match the tones perlectly; to now, wearing even less and less, In this book and in my ‘own work today, I most often use little or no foundation. | find that concealer, applied to any spots or discoloration, fol lowed hy a light powder, is the most natural-looking and ractive finish for the skin. Still, if you choose to wear foun ion, there are two important things to consider when ng a produc The “look” you want to achieve and that it matches your skin Don't forget to check the color in daylight to make sure it matches your neck, But again, there are no rules. When it comes to the selection of any cosmetic product, whatever suils your needs and taste is what's best cuidoors. My shoes or shirts as we climbed th Most of my summer days as a child Keith and I rarely wor mous pine trees in our backyard, making forts and swinging ropes. The only real drawback, besides the occasional broke and impossible-to-remove pine sap, was the incessant mosquite bites continued on page 21 chook plane’ apple of the cheek peaks of the lip comer of the mouth jawiineIt is very important that you know your own face as well as possible. Take the time to study it (without makeup). Close < feel for the structure and placoment of the ndereath.Once you have a good idea of what you ly, it hecomes much easier to bones are working with physi enhance your overall appearance, a Reg rad Cera eee) DR eae aod us would like to have naturally. That is to sa PRU C Re seu Rad used properly, and placed only where needed, pen Mee Coen ae ed that Will work best should be chosen Rea acc Years ago, foundation was used specifically to alter the color of the skin, re:“rasy glow.” But the trend of the last few years has taken us from what intentionally changed the wearer's atu I coloring to products that match the tones perfectly: to now, wearing even less and less. [n this book and in my ‘own work today, I most often use little or no foundat find that concealer, applied to any spots or discoloration, fo lowed by a light powder, is the most natural-looking ar attractive finish for the skin, Still, if you ehoose to wear foun- dation, there are two important things to consider when 1a product: The “look” yo hhieve and that it matches your skin. Don't forget to check the color in daylight to make sure it matches your neck Bat again, there are no rules, When it comes to the seleetion of any cosmetic produet, whatever suits your nee Is and taste is what's best ec cccccccccccccccccccccs Most of my summer days asa child were spent ouutoors. My broth er Keith and I rarely «wore shoes or shirss as we climbed the enor ‘mous pine irees in our backyard, making forts and swinging fron ropes. The and impassible-to-remove pine sap, was t casional broken bone ncessant mosquito ly real drawback, besides the o bites. (continued on pag \dra forth inside "tl undereye g ridge of themese cheek plane) apple of the cheek hollow of the cheek ball of the nose peaks of the lip corner of the mouth tip of the chin nape of the neck found.based foundations tend to separate, so they need to be shaken for @ smoother application. ' prefer little or no founda tion for everyday use. Too much founda’ jive the face an adds light or a glow to the complexion * Creme foundation can create the look of having a milky f complexion. if liquid foundation - Sour fealhaat ondornae 4 medium coverage product with a light is too oily, try adding 2 few mois meio drops of astringent. This will make | 3 the foundation a bit sheerer, but does cut down on the oiliness. A fitle fourtaetion on sec the eyelid, blended well and followed by loose pow er, creates @ smooth sustace sheer foundation - for powder shadow 10 alide i ee: on, making tie application last longer and blend | ing easie, Chendra, to the left, is wearing @ very light application of IqiliggBendation. Many women choose this tye of foundation because it looks and fee's quite natal. It can also become somewhat beneficial to the wearer because meny of the best ones contain moisturizing ingredients. ‘Chancka North(continaed from page 9) This meune that onc of us (or both, usual were covered in calamine lotion. (You itch pink know, thas strange-smell lotion that dries to a cakey paste.) A couple of weeks before 1 began first grado, my mother took me shopping for school clothes, This was the day I was allow patent leather loafers (which 1 hid foom my father, but he eventually found them and threw them assay). Afier hours of trying on clothes ared choasing those with the bright: est floral prints, my mother allowed me 10 push the shopping care all the way w the cheekout count my mother made me stand in front of the cart, away from the seductive candy dis- And, ax was ensiomary play, with my hands outstrethed toward the clerk, 1o make sure she wouldn't think 1 had stolen anything. As my eyes left my fell upon the it of a woman mother's protective gaze, somehvsvat disconcerti who heed apprerentty been attacked by a legion of mosquitoes. “Ma'am! Look! Wy legs have calamine lotion all over then ol” I exclaimed, happy to have a cohort in misery. Before my mother could stop me, the eashiee’s puszle unforinate release dno, all over your face, ma‘am!” On the | f the words “You car vide home, my mother explained that mosquitoes played no part in the cashier's appearanee and that what she had on svas “makeup.” Now, three decades later, I’m sult bafiled. Why anyone svould choose a foundation so far fiona their natural color seems inexplicable. Bur was 1967 and chotces were quite limited Luckily things have chang brother and I then again, that and now ny - Sometimes enever ween trees ~ in a photograph of yourself you'll notice that your face is white ecccccccccccccs and your chest is tan. That's because the | flash rotlects light off the faco (with founda | tlon and powder) and the raw skin of your _ chest or neck absorbs the light. Next time _you think you're going to be photographed, be sure to apply a bit of the powder to your neck and chest, or wear little orno foundation, ar mosquito repellent Matte foundation, as seen here on Adia, is suitable for all calors of skin. Because of it eyeshadows, otc., tend to go on smooth and easy. However, if applied too heavily it cj lifeless. While iridescence can create a beautiful dewy look, it can also bring out acne scars, severe lines and blemishes). Matte foundation tends ta even out ski okin should apply moisturizer before its use. ‘Acar CautitenlyWhen using powder, producte such eo eyeshadow or blush, 8 ight application of loose or preesed pourder first ic the best way to ensure smocth blending. Powder eyeshadows of blushes applied dirocly to the akin will “grad” in the oily areas, creating a blotchy applica Loose powder, alone, can act as a sheer foundation, by toning down the shine and evening out the skin. shake off excess powder from the Pend ae coc ing to the face. enn Peete ar aCe PCO ees coo oo) Ge eee Rc Pee ea Pe Ce en Dee ae Pn Peer ce Sa Sad CoresConeesler works so well beeause it is made of a denser composition than most other cosmeties, Therefore, it has more staying power, However, its not meant to be a cover-the-entire-lace product, So use caution; a little goes a Colors for concealer come in a variety of shades and should match the skin itself. But many concealers have a pink . When placed over undereye cir . whieh tend tw be bluish. or purple, they look gray. Golden-toned conceal ic purplish cireles and end to go slightly lighter dark circles under the eye, that are many shades deeper than your nomial skin coloration. circular sponge - | projet this tyoe of sponge al oth- ers While velotr sponges are cheaper. they tend to deposit t20 much powcior ind absorb foundation, Jeaving the skin Streaky and blotchy | preter a concealer that is completely ‘opaque and slightly dry in texture, to ‘ones that are liquidy. (I find that these don't adhere to the skin as well and, therefore, tend to “travel” on the faco. They are also prone to rub off or fade quickly.) This way, | only have to use very little to cover pim: ples, birthmarks, spider veins, under- ‘eye circles or anywhere there is rad- ness or discoloration on the face. ' applying _ golden-based concealer the places where it is _ undereye circles (using a small ‘brush or your fingertips before softly powering) can easily conce er concealer brush - smali-tioped for accuracy in epplicetion alors Using @ small brush (like the one shown) or your fingertip, dab or lightiy draw onto the aree you wish to conceal. Blend well into the skin. Then if you wish, set with powder Concealer can be mixed ‘with creme or liquid eyeshadows, creme blush or lip colors to pale down or dilute the applica- tion.eck ad Ce enc ag Rie eng eee This photo is really an illustration of the contours of the face, The applica ted and not to be taken too literally. I's just lo shew how high lighting and contouring when sparing: ly applied and earefully blended) ean, add definition to the face. You can use this photo to understand your own bone structure and make the most of it Practice al home in daylight and test ress. You may never do alii at for spoglie. sions or photographsgit ean really make a differen your prog Tor everyelay life, Either apply these products directv from the tube with a brush or use your fingertps, Blend with your fingers (of a sponge). Whila blanding,concentrate on. keeping the product in the general area ‘whore it was applied, but use enough {0 eliminate any cbyious lines. shading aw Rg and pearlized powders make Cita tel adcosmetic surgery A longtime friend and the preiier cos. muelic surgeon 19 some of the world’s mast famons peaple, Dr Daniel Baker, is thie one plasiie surgeon who, without hesitation: | ean eecommend to any person in seareh of that, othenwis unattainable, aguiline nose, What hratire did not eve you, Dn Baker ean Deciphienng the arcane language of blepharoplasty, rhytidoplasty and shinoplasty. and making mavic fron, with subtle work, an ye and skilled hand, Dr Baker has heen work- ing inthe specialiaed ficld of recon stenetive surgery: cosmetic i ments and aestliedie entian joxer two decades, Involved in sich rad- jal provedures as limb reaitachment as arly as 1979, his past work was pr ily focused on posttraumatic recon struction, However: ag Dr. Baker con. fides, he has come to understand the: work he dees now offen has an equally life-altenng and life alfirming impact ens for yn many of his pa he the domain of Heh and s. evelid ve ifs and nose jobs (listed above in techn: are being sougiit by people of all anes and walks of and ine broads ened sovial seeoptability, 1 ypu ran feel bet fer about your sell, why feel bad? Pawing a fresher face lor- ward is ne longer a taboo for men. ay owell as J think we all have those davs when we Took in the mirror bofore stopping ou of the door for work in the morning ned to one ho and wonden what happ faces while we were asleep, W ble oransforiia hones so there i looking back a you self Those days wher sven in the line of visien is shar thing poresived as a physical shorte Plastic surgery can alter that pereep- tion as surely as i alters the flesh. on rearranged tbe bad Picasso head raahier then your all that can be As Dr Baker sa ations made jhr« the internal ones. Wondesful, bes tiful women such as Anjehea Huston a strong proiile because of who they are inside. She would not he able w be whe she is if she did not have her unique, stunning beauty Plastic surgery should not he about homogenizing beauty, but about r ing 4 personss total potential, For that reason, Dr Baker points ont, he often discourages someone from wndereoing elective surgery, What thet person. jot an eyelid Lilt pavural andl herded was hing ates val beauty someting as slinple as cer eyebrow fin a way that enhances an already lovely brow line) or consulting @ professional about the proper appli- cation of makeup. When visiting a plastic surgeon, this is what yeu should capect: A thorongh uke evaluation, so that the physieian ra ase desines and the inotives behind shem. TF yen consul tain you sumgcon who agrees with everything yon want one who will nip, tuck and pull anything, without hesitation oF concern. run for your life, What yeu n alse expeet is tat tle doctor will ke you to the mirror and show you what ean be accomplished throngh the: application oie seiener, Phen again. he may lead you ty the mirror and say: ‘you are perfect as you ure. Cosmet surgery is not for eeryone and a rep= utable surgeon will tell yon that hon esily. Carla, “‘bofore, during, andafier”—For as long as I can remember ee been obsessed with eyebrows + from that firs grade school paper (the last page of the drook) to my first photo session, all the way | to cody, L'a sinply-draven to people's eye | brows. In the seventh grade my friend | Michelle came to class one day sparkling and glistening. “What did you do io your eyes?” [ asked. Beaming that samecine noticed, she proudly replied, ‘ve rwveezed my eyelashes!” Taking her word for it, and not realizing she had confused eyelashes with eyebrows, 1 sat on the bus her eyes home envisioning sparkly eyes that were only-a tweeze avvay Pondering, in the mirror, which eyctashes wonld need to be extracied in order to tutain vhis exciting new look, £ chose a nice, thick black one in the dead center oj | ny eye. Now for those of you who have | eng rip | | new glistening, never experienced an evelar out of your head, count your blessings. Besides nearly pulling my eyelid off, the pain was indescribable. The gruesome sight of my rapidly inflating eyelid saved thai lucky fourth lash from its demise. Veedless to say, I learned to listen and observe more carefully shen it came to beauty tips from a twelve-year-old. Anyway; while some may hesitate and balk ac the idew of changing one's brove shape, one only needs to think of Marlene | Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey | Hophurn or Diana Ross to realize how akering the shape can help create a signa- ture look. eecccccccccccce see Seay eter aon Cat you are sensitive to plucking, ‘try rubbing a small bit of toothache ‘medicine over the area to numb Thinking of lightening your brows and want to see what they would look like first? Try using ‘colored mascara in the shads you'd like them to be. Fret, decide on tho shapo you ike 3 natural areh is tie most direct course. To do Zt how the has gareraly) cave song the Toate « gud, miror tho shope dong the Bakiom By eliminting the most obvous halls. Following the br this, takemciose top of the brow colored mascaras Bier and less painfulYo remove the hairs in the i i : rection that they grow) | four sharpened pencil and drew in any opan saaces with shor, inegulerlength strokes to simulate real hair. La ME shall worratine tae ‘you want to remava with, ‘a white ponci or concoaler (area incicatod below red-daahed Ine) My fevorite shape is slightly square’ “toayfine put not overextended port zt the end, with @ gracajul arch in between, 1 at te eosin, tered WAU Wey Sas | TOT tweezers brow pencils - for shaping, filing in, darkening or adding warmth to brows le brow brush. aMarilyn - chapoly, voluptuous and curvy, as Soductive es 4 brow could get Marlene twee220 within aninch ofits ile, (er plucked out completely and drawn back in Elizabeth -a smellet, compact. “pert” ver sion of Merlyn with a distinct poak, but every Dias sexy Brooke - boyish and slightly unkempt, 2 Teaviife example of the Gamine’s brow Mem ) ti RS lara - straight and then down, Almost sac ‘ooking; very wiafish and vulnerable Audrey - drawn over and around the brow. Youthful anc tomboyish Divine - as in the largertharclife ete drag queen. Shape has no basis in reaity, but that’s the whole point To achieve some of the more adven turesome looks in this book, sich as “the Sophiatieats” and “the Showgiel” it is necessary to change the shape of the brows completely. This ean be accomplished in two different ways. The finst is to cither completely pluck. for shave your brows off. Although this vill give you the best surface, it does soon a high price to pay for “the Big Party” or the weekend drag show: 30, if being east in the title role of “The Mlariene Dietrich Story” is not in your fature plans, | suggest covering your brows. While this is @ Leclinique that is mostly used by “movie stars” and “gen- der illusionists,” and the “naturalist” say Find it appalling, | thought T youll include it just in ease you ever get the urge. This way you can have all the dhama without the aftermath, — Eyen when you do master the applica tion. just like Cinderella, you'll only. have a few hours before it starts to show signs aff wear, Still, if you have a party Wo go to or some other fantastic fimetion, it can make all the difference. eyebrow wax : eyebrow sealer brow brush (optional) concealer or foundation loose powder brow pencil raw on any shape you jks,se the look of the he brow) is A greal way to chai face (also. by alter bleach them, as seen here on Chi Shimizu-Morrison. By lightening them ir bleach, you can affect id of the face, A leach: brow will soften the expression, as oppased to dyeing them (a da color), which can make them look it you feel your brows toa low or lose to the ‘bleaching them can up the face. Bleaching the brows is quite simple, but y must exer bleach can seriously v (sometimes causing them to break off 3 to tet the effect oF the see the color cienge) by removing a bit of the product and uncovering the fais undgh- yf Chvisina befor and after’ 1a Shimizu-Morrison,eyes po adot Eyes are an area where you ean really : have fun and be quite creative. Unlike the lips, whieh ean be altered only slightly in shape before they start to look awkward, the eyes have no real set | limitations. Each shape you create. shade whether with shadows, peneils, or liner, can take you into completely diferent reals. From “smoky” to “defining,” subtle to high-drama, depending on the face you choose, the eye arca is integral for a suecessfial look liquid eyest ees ‘eyeshadow brushes To create the “alluring” eyeshadow shape (s90 page 33} shown on Julia Raberts ta the Tight, you'll need the following tools and products: concealer and face powder | powder sponge black eyeliner panei! back powder eyeshadow neutral beige powder eyeshadow ‘sponge-tip applicator eyeshadow brush ‘eyelash curler and black mascara ‘apricot blush and bluzh brash | neutral tip cotor and tip brush Use concealer sparingly, followed by ose. powder applied with a powder sponge tnot velour), (Optional: leave alittle powder eine unde’ the eye, 10 catch faling shadow.) Gero cy Creer Pree oct id Cone er Rec eee oe) Apply back eyeliner pencil 19 upper and lower inner eye area. Smudge pencil dently into the Using either a spongestip apalicator or shadow brush (your choice), blend pancil into-smoky circle round eye, First, using the eyeshedow applicator, softly retrace pencilad area (from lashes out- ‘ware} with black eyashadow. The idea isto ‘smoke up the area, Remember to use as little as possiole to get the best results, | Nex, using the eyoshadow brush, are into | the crease ot tne eyelid, under end soitly ‘outward from the comer. (Concentrate the shadow on the outer half of the eye) Use beige pawcer eyeshadow to hichlant browbone and eyelid, (You can oven ewan a litle bi: slighnly dovin the side of the nese \ ‘and under the eye. r Curl the lashes and apply black mascers. Finally fill in the mouth (using a lip brush with neutral ip color (in Julia case, tor this photo, no lip pencil auline was necessary}, and dust the cheeks with epricot blush Jula's brows were bleached. (This is always optional, but see how it, with the pala | mouth, softens and affects the overall ba- | ance of the face.eyes continued, shadow shapes The eye area is always a popular choice for the use of color. However, a little will go a long way. Regardless of what colors you actually choose (from blue to brown, reid to black) remember that your attention will immediately go to, the “colored” areas. For instanee, on: Irish, to the left, | used a soll powder blue eyeshadow. You're instantly drawn: to the eyes, In order to balance the face, a soft pink blush and clear pink lip gloss were chosen: while enhancing the cheeks and lips, they allow the eyes tho “spotlight.” eS To re-create the eyecetcning shadow shape) on Trish Goff, to the laft, the following is a guideline when choosing an eyeshadow color: the lighter, more pastel shacow will lock softer. the darker, more primary shadow wil be more dramatio, Using a sponge-tp applicator use the fo: lowing drawings as guices: een ‘Then soften and blend awey any her edges. (Remember, when using color products, it's ‘There are dozens of eyeshadow shapes and each one can efleet a completely differ: ent mood. Most are fairly simple to do, and only a handful are complicated. ‘But ‘remeniber: practice, passion and persistance make perfeet) For our purposes, I par- rowed them down ty six categories (Contour, Washi, Smoky, Downiurned, Bi-col- cored, and Winged). From them you should he able to ereate any shape you Tike, ‘The effect ofa smoky eye can he either soft and subtle, like the effect on Julia fon page 31) or mysievious and dramatic. (see Janel Ja uses eyeshadows in-a contouring man- nen The second uses dank shales in a more highly concentrated area, ee “hie shape te popular for creating a jller, more rounded eye, By enphasiz~ ing the outer eye area with a dark, smoky shadow that fides as it moves inward toward the brow, the eyelid and hrowbone are sofily separated, giving ccesior to use lass at first and increase, layar | by layer, until you get the exact color depth ‘and shape you want. Trish Goff, photographed by Eric Saks son,an page 42) The first ity. Using any ei This look is also known as “bedroom eves” made famous by seductresses throughout history. It consists ofa pale Jid (Qonr color choice: and browbone with a sloping crease, The outer eye- lashes are played up to accentuate the overall sleepy effect Peau! For centuries women have affeeted this look to accentuate them more exolie side, From Cleopatra to Madonna, this: shape has signified power and sensual: Jor, froin pastels to ddoepost black, this “upturned” eye adds instant dramaMetallics: reflect the light, so they easily work as highlighters. To create depth, | often us matte shades, as they absorb the light eyes continued, texturesm shimmery to « precious-metal effect, metallic eyeshadow in liquid, metallic er Valerte’s lids were made three metalic liquid shad: burgundy metallic liquid eyeshadow beige-white liquid chimmer eyeshadow gold metallic liquid eyeshadow y metalic liguid shedow wae arliog syeshadow brush aver the ina beyond the crease and under tho oye. Next, a pale beigey-white fquld shirnme' ‘was lightly apolied withthe fingertips to browbone a1¢ all along the burgundy ed ADT Thon got mete Hud shadow was appiedt te cote of tha syed usia the contr fingor and alowod to dy wih eves Teching Gown, nto Tre Poles eae eee eee ree ec STONE eS amoer Valetta, photographed by Erie Sakas A soft, liquid brown eyeshadow was sparingly used to enharice the natural ‘eye shape. Carefilly blend in to create an almost “stained” effeet Creme shadow can help to bring the eyes forward, while retaining « skin like texture that (depending on color ean look from “approachable” all the way to “edgy.” A popular choice, matte shadows schon applied to an already lightly powdered eyelid: can be one of the eas est to appl. (Tips your ble blending, you may want to bry smother brand, as some companies matte shadows fee! like pressed dust!) \ favorite of Old Hollywood and top makeup artists. this look does requite a Jot of upkeep. If using petroleum jelly as many makeu while the gloss. and whatever color is under it, tends to “travel” into the crease. For everyday life, try bose pow der shimmer shatlows with high sbine. artists do) aller a Similar to “naturals” this Took involves a hale of color surrounding the eve, ‘Again, color selection is according to personal taste and style. The feeling is sensual and [resh. This texture ean be necomplished with eremes, liquids, creamy powder bination of the threeliquid eyeliner a brown eye pencil white eye pencil Kiisiy Hume, at left, features a thin line of black liqui both top and bottom. The sides ‘opened with white pencil rimming the eyes and trailing outward. On her lids, ‘she is wearing a green liquid metallic ‘eyeshadow, complemented by a bleached brow and matte brownish-pink lips. Rimming the eye with white or beige eye pencil helps te extend the whites of the eyes and has been a favorite of everyone from Matiene Dietrich and Maiilyn Monroe +e Gone Rowlands and Gwyneth Patrow. To apoly, gently pul id away from eye end draw a lire alorg uppor and lower inner eye For e: (Of the/penci by drawing a few lines, first, on the back of your hand ier application, try softening the tip ‘ren Kime ohoinarached by Males Alariage eyeliner 1 Seated in front of pagnitying miro, >, 2 — Draw across in one continuous thin line. (Retrace forlatgar lines.) be. 7 ro eliner to someone Applying liquid ¢3 else is hard enough, but its even more difficult applying it to yourself: Again, especially with this specific makeup technique; practice, persistence, and passion make perfect. Begin by plac ing yourself in front of a mirror magni fying your eyes to the size of Jupiter Seriously: magnification truly benefits smooth application. 2 five hand, pull your eye taut and slightly downward, I find that whic the liner is pointing naturally when T pick it up is where [begin on (For instance, Lamm right-handed, so the tip of the eyeliner points lefe most casily: For the left eye, 1 begin on the outer corner and con the right eye I begin on the inner ‘comer’) 3. Draw across in one continu- fous fine line. (For thicker i This has worked for me, but of whatever works for you is best. Believe makeup remover has been ss apply liquid liner herself. (Actually, we both used a bottle after she insisted I try it myself to see how hard it was Anyway, a simple black liqu the eye, with a little mascara and lip gloss, and you'll be off on your ows “Roman Holiday” one large bottle of effort to teach my dine on immed 7 T This makeup technique nas its origins in ancient Eastern cultures, and tha name “koh” itself refers to the black powder used to encrcie the eye (photo detail from Jewel on page 58). Using a finger from your free hand, gently pull your lid away from the eye. ‘Then, using your choice of pencl with a tip that’s not teo sharp), apply a line to upper ‘and tower inner rims, irom comer to com Next, with your fingertip. sponge-tip aap tor or eyeshadow brush, smudge and Ble to create a smoky effect. If you effact as is, finish with a ligt application loose powder to set it. If you desire stronger elfeot, folow with your favorte = colori liquid, creme or powderA few simple steos to fallow to give your eyelashes that wide-eyed, sparkly 100%, like Stella Tennant, cn the let. First, put the eyelash curlaras close to the base of the lashes as you can get. Squesz> tightly fora few seconds, release ard then valk the curler out along the length oF the laches, squeazing as you oo. ig2ze in one place too long or shes é harsh night andle.) Next, with your wand; apply mascara to the base of the lashes. (It you Ike, you can clean off the wand witha tiseue first, 10 remove any dried mescara, which Deposit the mascara by rubbing the wand first from side to side, then brush outward. A > e CTT ail Finally, necessary, separate lashes with @ lash comb. dau Titi, pharma eyelashes Curling your lashes is an extremely effective makeup technique, It doesn't inyolve any superfluous equipment or Vos ne products. It doesn't hurt (unless you | Mascara wand and black mascara slip and pinch your eyelid) and the change is instantaneous, even if you choose not to follew up with anything else (mascara, ete.). Se, why not try i Cured lashes ean make you look awake and -more vibrant) and for women with lashes that grow straight forward or Followed hy maseara, the effet is even Cee) CEE e LL Rd the lash root, then sweep- ing outward and upward, CoCr Ru ca oun tnd Pe Tire] EERO RC) Cerne mid-brown mascara lash comb, eyelash curl ety satey air into the UEC UCR Lome ( more product on the eT Mat nec will only dry out the Perse aa Pear nee instead.me geotamlitossrerm ‘medium flesh tone Tne matte - sopnist " creme - always @ populapgayorite sheer - aa folet the. edi through shiny/glossy = sexy ang, metallic - za semi-opaque gloss- to give aglowand,heighton tho natural color ear red- ELpor sexy iridescent wa clear lip gloss - simple and always ef tive lip brush - 1 must for accurate shaping of the mouth Jonet Jackson, johed by Eddie 1 guess Poe always been fascinated with ipstick because of is candy-bke appear dance, F remember elinbing ono our bea room counter and opening the medicine chest in search of my mom's ovauge lp stick, Since smells can be deceiving (her tube hc a distinct floral scent I uarally decided have a bite. The wary texture {ded noi a single fora of orange taste Yier spining cus all but what had meld between my teeth, L quickly set abou reshaping what was lefi of her lip rouge. oi realising quite how delicate the buile of color was, Luddenty found myself hold ing the lipstick aud the container tv differ cent hands, Fovish I head a picture of me as my mother envered the bathroom to find thing in sight colored coral. I've earned a los about lipsick since then, so dere are some tps anal dees ececsceeeeceves ‘The mouth is an immediate attention getter and the effeet lipstick can have on creating the right mood is amzing. From rolie” to “demure” the selection of the right product ‘and shade) ean be great fui. Here, om these three pages 2, #3 and 44, Vwe chosen to highlight ght different textures: neutral, creamy, she allie, matte penciled and stained D kad Tee gives Dek orutt Ue UAC R nce Pa Ls Seer gees Se ence iekore ioe eet er Pomeroy Pegg recs) Make sure your lip pencil Is sharpened and of a fairly firm tex- ture in order to clearly di rose tho smi uth. Li help to prevent your lipstick. from bleedingstainealips, continued A basic lip lesson Line the tps, using your choice of pari, keeping to the natural lip Ine oe Uf you choose to reshape the mouth, a bit of | erate mee haan aera reaisstc) Then, fillin the entre mouth with the pene New aiptusheréilnin one | pene ieee eee Io oer Aah bus sch eremrl nel Sr cisiie kes iad eee eae hay Ceca cang aC h ales eoere To blot lips more evenly, separate a Z-ply tissue and uso one sheet at a time, Blot your lips, then re-apply lipstick, then blot again. This absorbs excess oil and leaves the pigment. Good for your own smudge- proof, long-lasting effect Play with the balance of your face by using dark colors on the eyes and light colors on the mouth or vice versa. See how it also changes the proportion of your features. f yersonally prefer to line the lips with a neutral lip pencil, even if the lip color var that is a bright shade. This way the finished mouth looks Bun UCC fades or is “chewed” off, the PC Care array Count ag or natural lip A basie wellzounded and symettrically sheped mouth, ce Cupid's bow \Very exaggerated and feminine. Curves dawn inside and ut of natural ip lines. Uniclip No peaks on top lip. Fulland voluptuous, ory Naomi Campbell and Kate Hepbum, Bee-stung “Takes the name from the look of a real bee sing walt, Very ally Twenties. the Smear Forties. Drawn outside the peaks on the top lia, Very Grematic, 2 le Joan Crawiord “Bonnie Parker” ‘Mote a naturally coourring shape than one awn in, Late Siitias née Faye Dunaway Glomour gi Fifies, all the way. Manlyn woule overdrav tha top ip te heighten its seductivenessBh youth 10 yo Jr ean being 2 glow o the bleom of fice. Coloring is sitple, and apricot ave my favorite colors, Occasionally, PIL-use something else for a special effect less, iL is foolproof. And don't just apply it to the checks either. A light applica tion of blush. as you see on Amy Wesson below, to the temples, forehead mit mone oF and chin brings the Face together, [ve found the best way to apply powder blush is to shake (or blow off) any sees from your blush beush frst then sweep it'acmss the areas | mer tioned. Liquid pr ereme blush is best applied before powder. That way it blends in easier and with loose powder ver it, it Looks like i's coming from within. For special look, try bit of liter spray as your finishing touch, Ike the picture oppo- site of Asia, Tho offeet ie quite exciting and, because of the qualities of the gittet, you ‘get great shadows and highlights. t's also Jery easy to apply. Just apray it on after your makeup Is finished. Special nate; It wl ‘et on your clothing, so be prenared fora It= tle “pisie-cust” in your life for the next cou- ple of d no or eats roal gold dust be spilled in her heir f Cree aor Often, there are times when |, per sonaliy, prefer to use to use liquid blush instead of Powder, as | did here on Amy Powder creates softer, more athe real Icok, whereas liquid is more pro- nounced. For this photo, which w taken backsiage et a fashion shew, it was necessary for the blush to be more visible. Just be caraful to use sparingly: it can easily 90 on too heavy and cor trate itself into spe cic spots, Dab on very small amounts (with your tings tps) and smooth in first to see how you like the color Ing, then add more # you choose. aj = for a special eyecatching effect glitter powder - for that “stardust” look iridescent liquid - to create somgebeautifully subtle high: liquid blush - for strong, congent:ated coloring creme blush easy to appiyand contro! ‘e mango powder - for women with darker skin tones, te ogg uae apricot powder - and pink, axeinysive ‘yokes ce large powderBrush - for quick and easy applicationHaving covered each feature, one by | this next s different *total” looks. Any of these looks can he modified or altered ti sui ste or skin tone. You may choose to intensify or soften the application, Mix different looks togeth- or oF pick just one aspect of the face that appeals to you. But most of all The first look is all about rad Chandra’s skin was enhanced using amount of earefilly placed and Liquid blusher, This wseh is the most natural, next to saving nothing (which is always an those whe profer the un made-up look, this is an ‘¢ oplion, concealer and sponge soft brown creme eyeshadow ‘sponge-tip applicator eyelash curter and black mascara tesh-toned lip pencil pink liquid blush 1 Carefully apaly conceeler, sparingly, to even ‘ut the skin tone and remove any discok fation or redness, Soft brown creme eyeshadow in the crease ‘of the aya (fram the inner to outor cor ne). Blend wel aaa PEM aks ee Rete Aftar curing lashes, apply a ight cost of black mascara. (For this photo, | ¢id only the ‘top lashes.) Apply pink iquid blusher to cheeks, tem- ples, chin and lips. leh Uso 2 flesh-toned ip pencil to even out the lip shape and flln softly, (This is optional)rin fencer snk Cee CRs creating subtle differences. ve always been a big fan of neutral colors (especially for the eves). Neutra tones are typically light beige to dark brown-based colors anil, therefore, ave found naturally in the skin. These shades enhanee the features when lightly applied, because they tend to resemble you jatural shading and contours. When used with more | intensity; neutrals ean add drama with but adding too much color (i that is | you n. i's hard to goal). In my apini go wrong with this look. you can see, wears neutral makeup extraordinarily well and you can sce how the wearer's best features are spotlighted warm-toned foundation face powder and circular sponge noutral toned brow pencil brow brush neutral brown povider eyeshadow palo floch-toned eyeshadow sponge-tip applicator eyelash curler and brown-black mascara apricot blush and blush brush neutrat-toned lip pencil neutral pinky-beige lip color Uighter shade) neutral lip color Using the sncnge or finger take your warm- ‘toned foundetion and sorsed fin a semrcir- cular are} under tne eyes (starting from alongside th nose out toward the chesk- bores}, around the mauth, the center of the forshead and down the bridge of the nose. Allof these areas have now been brought forward. However, in order for this to look. natura, blend the foundation well nto che skin, making sure there are no distinct lines ‘Nea Carohel photnamebedsinaaaae eutral 2 (The previous step. if done lightly and well fades to the "warming" effect of the ‘wath your sponge, apply translucent face makeup.) powder. 8 3 Using the neutral lp panei (slightly darker than your skin tone}, draw in your lip shape Fillin with the same pencil Groom the orows, filin with the pencil of your choice and brush upward, 4 For the ayes, use the spongetip applicator 10 aonlya neutral brown powder eyeshadow 0 tho innor aye area, under the bottom lashes ard around the outer coiner—anly S.__ slightly on the inner cores. 8 |) Secor sara cole kato the cnet Kien espns er soa) Soy nausea 5 Now take a pate flesh-toned shadow and stroke a soft line down the center of each | eyelid. Again, blend well 10 With your fingertipdab the Iightor shade 2 neutal lipstick, just on the center ofthe li [This step crestes the iluson of added ful rose and the finiched mouth is one exerrp of a threedimensional mouth) With the blush brush, dust apricot Blush conto the cheekoanes, tamples, chin, sides of the nec, and the hairlinepeneils and eremes, It's also an exam ple of highlighting and shading with oul the use of typieal contouring prod tucls, Lee, you ean easily see where the light hits Jaime’s face snd those areas come forward because of the reflective qualities of the makeup, Also. don't neeossarily think of this (or any other fae) in Lerms of daytime or evening. U's all a matter of application and desired effect coneceler lif needed) Jiquid nightighting fotion and sponge pink liquid Blush \Warny-toned brown eye pencil burgundy creme eyeshadow pale beige shimmer powder eyeshadow eyeshadow brush eyelesit curler and black mascara burgundy mascara neutral-toned lip pencil shimmery pink lip gloss 1 Using concealer (only if touch the face to even out essary), Spor the skin tone, 2 Apply nighlighter lotion to the face with fine ‘ertps or foundation sporge. (For this ppheto, highlghtor was acted to the nack and colarbone) 3 ‘Apply a very light application of liquid blush to the cheeks anc temples, blending well with the fingers or round sponge rot y highlight cea Vr a ag 1 4 2 For the ayes, start with the warm-tonad dark brown eye pencil, Blerd into the upper Ishes anc smudge with your eyeshadow brush Black mascara is then applied ta the ton bashes, burgundy meseara to the bottom lashes. Nex, the buraundyereme evesnedowis | =< spolodn acre eoune he oye wih tho | t tyeshada rus, eaing the dk on penal darcest ae lasine, Bor outward in cedar dteeton 8 ‘After lip pendll is used to define the shepe of the mouth. fill in using the same. ‘The pale bsiga shimmer power eyeshadow is brushed on the brow bone, (incidental, 8 no brow pencil was used for this photo.) Shimmery pink ip gloss is then appfed finishing touch.dré This look is simple drama, Very little makoup is used to achieve maximum 1. Here Jewel’s smoky kohl- rimmed eyes are the center of atters tion, amidst 2 sheer natural backdrop. Ofien, with such a powerful statement T hake the face by keeping the lips softer int feeling. That way the fave is do not take away Irom the main focus. (Keep in mind, this ean be done in the exact opposite way, by making the mouth the attention getter and complementing with soft eyes) tte finished, but other feat Something else to think about: | had T wanted 10 go against type nid eveale a very different look for Jewel, who typically wears little make up. She was also on a very tight sched- ule when we got together for this if mutes to complete the makeup. Luckily, Jewel bas flawless skin that was only mini mally enhanced concealer (if needed) golden-brown brow pencil ‘ark brown metallic iquid eyeshadow koh! black eye pencil ‘eyeshadow brush ‘sponge-tip applicator ‘eyelash curler and black mascara neutral-toned lip pencil ‘caramel brown tip gloss 1 Analy concealer only in areas where itis, 2 Browsiere ly Ted in wit gdb choice depends on DI Using the eyeshadow brush, lightly ply Jerk brown metallic liquid eyeshadow to the eyelid and undereye area, ere Kehl black eye pencil ie applied to the inner | upper andloner eye tims. ee Further smudge black eye pencil with an eyeshadow brush or sponge to diffuse and softan the edge Bias neerels oped eserieee ae tote egy a} Pee een nec ac Alter lipe are lined and led in witha nautrabtoned lip pencil, apply a caremettrown eclored ip goss.Applying color to the face is always an exercise in good editing and product selection. Try less in the beginning and increase as you go along.’That way you ean see what you are doing and don’t have to worry about too much going on, The colorful face, as seen here on Kate Moss, utilizes three different color shales; green, gold and blue, Most important, thou: lightly applied and blended well into the face, Sinee Kate has such great iclure, iL was nevessary that nts of color never 0 I, they have been or distract [rom these features. sheer foundation pink creme blush translucent face power circular sponge brow brush turquoise blue eye pencit metallic green liquid eyeshadow metallic gold liquid eyeshadow eyeshadow brush eyelash curler and black mascara turquoice mascara flesh-toned lip penctt clear red lip aloss 1 ‘Sheer foundation all over the fave, Creme blush is used on the teveles, blend- ing down onta the cheekbones, using your fingerto, estes ‘Ad cisa< clorsiesparaesbonas fated ae 3 Loosa tase powder, sparinaly apalied with a powder sponge, all ovar the face, 4 Here, no pencil was Lsed, but the brows ‘were brushed 5 Use the turquose biue eye pene to ine the inner rim of the eye, top end bottom Liquid motalic green eyeshadow ie “washed” in a creular mation over the eyelid and onto the uncer-eve area, using an joyechadow brush, (Mako sure to blond wol 0 thet the eyes “fade. ") Gold metalic liquid eyeshadow is applied to the center of the eyelid anc blended in with brush, With the remainday, wine ever tha: ledges of the metalic green, for an even more gracusted look lorfu 8 Black mascere is epplied to curled usper lashes and turquoise mascara ta bottom lashes. 3 Using a flash toned lip pencil, shave and il inthe mouth, followed by an application oF clearred Ipgiossglamo ‘The preceding are two versions of the | Glamorous face, While there are a anile | to define glamour, | chose to go willl two that reflect different sides, of the same coin, Both have elassie red lips, with Shinya’s featuring smolder- ing eyes and Masako’s with a light golden eyeshadow, emphasizing the lashline and ig%0s-thin eyebrows. Fach Took has ils own appeal, while both are decidedly glamorous concesler face powrder and circular sponge black brow pencil black eye pencit smoky-black powder eyeshadow ‘smoky-gray powder eyeshadow sponge-tip applicator eyelash curler and black mascara soft pink powder blush and blush brush natural-colored lip pencil bluist-red creme lip color and lip brush Hooded Eyelids To add depth, apply dark shadow elong lasitine end curve upevard atthe outside corner, aiming toward the beanning ot the eyebrow and Ightly urdar the eye, si “The shadow is darkest on the outside and fading towaid the brow. Pale shack ‘wis placed onta the lid and brow bane, binging these areas forward, ‘Apply concealer where needed) and apply loose face powder with crcular sponge. ‘Apply brow pencil lightly feathering the Black eyeliner pencil is applied to the lower sponge-tio apolicetar, over the just-smudged rous 1 6 ‘Smoky-aray eyeshadow applied to the edge (of tha black to soften end ciffuse. 2 | natural snape of the brow. Locse powder is applied to the eége of the ‘gray to soften and diffuse it are ‘and upper inside rns of the eye, then Curl lashes and apply black mascara ‘smudged into the lashes. 8 Soft pink blush on the chaeks. smoky-bleck eyeshedow epolied with the 8 eye pencil Natural-colored ip pencil applied to the ps, ‘squaring-off the Dotiom lip end rounding the uupner. Then fill in with the pencil \ preceding pages, Shinya and Meseke Mori, photographed by Kei Oatserrs ker tones look amazing in brown or ee ECR ee se0 10 define the last put only slightly smudged. (The pencl sed only to define tho lashline ard make the lashes lox thicker.) & Sromen brow pencil e powder snd ci lar sponge ae eye pen A gas curier and black mascara pink powder blush White eve ———— onthe ims) ered ip color are ck quid eyeliner nd “opensup” the doe-eyed look es ate curled and ti Ss applied to bot, ton and Hotpink blush is us chaeks, temple sparinaly of nd forehead a Apply a true-ted lipstick and pen: Boot, eanply ard bl 10 the li. co Poetry S Ee eC color, lightly powder Perec One ected DT EE ceca Sr ae uae) Se Ce cee coe with the lip brush, apply the Tomy un eseeeag Peri Live abways been drason to Heastern boven Reins « tall ond skinny, blond. haired ie boy furs he South, 1 dreamed of bhvok hair. upturned eyes, ond Kish cheekbones. While Emuy have been Inverestingly, sohile iraveling back anit forth to Japan for quite a fos years now Ive met mony Asian people who desire Blond hat and more hight. Then J want eal to be Hispenare, but heats another story Fe scons the seorld over people want to see what its like (9 be i another person's shoes. 1 chink cha that attitude, bleaded ‘with a healthy dase of self-acreprance is a wonierfal combinarion —happy 1 De yourself, yet exger to see the world from nye from early ‘another perspective. Re ‘1 that people sometimes have extreme feelings about makeup, my friends and 1 wont try different lcoks to see hos they reacied. Haas amasing hos cay eas 0 provoke, distarb, jruchion, soothe, and ‘tteact based solely on anpearimce. 1 guess thar’ just another reason why Hove make ap Teing whle te concey-pour nvod ovat e through soraeehing thas you eas wash of is amazines te me So ness Took at Fastern beauty wish adorawion and se ancy You soe, now Lean be Japanese one ‘evening canal Spanish the news, swith just a bile makeup opphoation ried DC roy Reco ee enor) ee EE CME LC) pa eC EURO ics CE rey Poe ce cnaMOR ue Cr ek Urea tit ta) Pore tee rhe word “defining lown boundaries, delineate or trace wutlines, Literally, then, the defining. ace takes this definition and applies it lirectly to main facial features such yes, mouth, cheek, brows, and $0 on. Phis is a consistently popul makeup ook, and its “modern” origins can he weed back to the Ia nid early Forties ilies, whew black eyeliner, arched da perfectly shaped red nouth were absolutely de rigueur ‘on Lineless heanty Sena Rowlands. is updated yet cap. tunes a moody elegance, confined the defining techniques to wo specific places, the lips and the yes with a softer application given to ine brows and cheeks. ncoaler (if needed) cose face powder and circular sponge jolden-blond brow pencil yaldan-blond powder eyeshadow ponge-tip applicator slack eye pencil syechadow brush reutral shimmer powder eyeshadow syelash curler and black mascara oft roze powder blush plush brush lesh-toned lip pencil ed creme lip color 1 Soncealar should be applied sparingly under the eves and only to even out the skin. Loace powiderie dolicetely apetiod with @ sponge (uehng careful not to use toa much) cen a a Golden-biond brow pencil was used here to ~ocentuate the brows. [Use a color that works best with your own brow celo-) L/, Ae Golden-bionc eyeshadow is applied “emakly" with sporge-tip applicator ove" black eye pencil that is used to fine ‘he upper lashiins. (Be sure to smucge into lashes) 5 With 2 shadow brush, blend the powder shadow up to the crease of the eye end slightly beyond. Use the remains of ne shadew on the brush to lightly emphasize the undereye area, 6 ‘Shimmeny, neutral shadow is applied to te browbone to seperate the eye fiom the brow, a technique that in and of itself, helps 1c define both features. Black mascara is applied to curied lashes, top and bottom, hoavest at the base of the lash 8 Soft rose powder blush is swent over the cheeks and teioles to give warmit 9 Lipa are lined with a flesh toned renell and filled in with a creamy red Ipstck, blot ‘and re-apolied, = i »)face uses “trac” vol ty accentuate the Features, the softness lave does much Lhe same but ones and shades of these products to elect Where the defining ors like red and blae es of softer” So instead of a vibrant red lip color on the mouth, ved Lip gloss was used instead. Burgundy-brown eyeshadow was used in phice of a neutral brown or black and pink blush was substitnted with warm apricot The result, as seen here on the ever- fabulous Ting Turner that takes advantage of the use of color while not overpowering the face and still defines the features without & geration is @ fresh Look liquid foundation concealer (if needed) warm apricot creme blush burgundy-brovrn creme eyeshadow ‘eyeshadow brush translucent face powder circular sponge golden-brown brow pencil eyelash curler and black mascara clear red lip alos Liquid foundation is applied to the center of the face and blended outward 2 In this photo concealer was soatapplied 10 the underaye ares 3 5 Creme blush in a warm apricot color is smacthed onto the cheeks, temples and chin, Loose face powder s applied over the ‘entre face using a sponge. 6 Brows are brushed upward and filed in wi a goldon-brown brow pencil 4 Burgundy-biown creme eyeshadow is epplisd with an eyeshadow brush, encircling ‘the eye. (Apply over the entire id, into the ‘cease and blended outwere.) Lashes aie curled ar black mascara is apalied to the top and bottom lashes. 8 As 2 inal touch, the lips are covered onl with a cbr red li gloss.‘The classical look is one that [see many women wearing —very little ar no. ion, red lips, and mascaraed es. The roots of this go back to the I wonten who ever “rouged” their lips, to Marilyn Monroe, ap 0 this modern version on Chandra North This look is very easy to do, but still srives the face a finished look, oatmeal scrub (optional light moisturizer (optional) brow brush clear gold liquid shimmer eyeshadow eyeshadow brush eyelash curter and black mascara lip pencil (to match natural lip color! ‘matte red lip color (Optional this photo, Chandra’s skin was lightly scrubbed (with catmeal sciub} before the picture was vaken, giving her afresh, healthy glow. That was followed by a light moisturizer on the entire face. The eyeorows are brushed first upward, than cownvrard at the encs, 3 Clear gold liquid shim ier eyeshadow is 1 eyelid with the eyeshadow brush. ashes are curled, a appiied to top ie black mascara is, 108 only. Makeup Re nee aa Deen Cita ae 5 Lin penetl (here in atone that matched Chardia's ip) is used to define the lip separ ‘plications of matte red lipstick. and blotting with a sinale plvof tissue help sot tho color. Vi in, This is (Slowed by twoThese modern-day Valentinos, Richard sims and Gregory 5 the sexiest Featuring looks that take only tio to three utes to accomplish, they ex me, the modern who are unsure about their own mas. culinity for homophobic) may find the idea of eyeliner just too th But those like Richard and Gregory who are comfortable with who th find this 4 ionary at all black eye pencit eyeshadow brush lip balm or moisturizer loose glass jewel (optional) black tulle or netting loptional) 1 faye peneilis anplied ta the innar eye xn (both upper end lower), Remember, tis takes practice, so take yourtime, Squosze o distibuie the eye line (in @ messy-looking, less intantional sort of wayh Using (preferably! a round ayeshacow brush, blend in for an even smakier effect. (if you can't get hold of a brush, your fingertip should do just tine Then lip balm ie usedto give the mouth a moist and sensual look and (Optionat ‘Asa finishing touch for this photo, glass stone was pracod on the conter of Richard's forenead, using a small crop of lash achesive. Fer Gregory, lack nat was trimmed in the shape of e veil and knot at the bac« of the headences were with my friends in . Their beauty Some pf my earliest makeup exper school who weren't cheerleaders or the “popula” onc yet they were constantly comparing them votball hero.” ‘In my sehool you had to be yas so clear to elves 10. the “prom queer white, blond, wealthy, and obnoxious to he popular) Some of my friends had given up on any kind of self-care, feeling that they were ses. This only fueled my determination to explore, exam- stand the bafiling world of beauty hopeless e: ine, and try to und While I could appreciate the typical All-American “perficet” faces. it was women like Barbra Streisand. Karen Black, Cher, Bette Midler and Tina Turner who were my beauty ideals, My mission beeame to help my friends realize their own uniqueness and specialness Makeup became one of my favorite tools. Sometimes we aren't very objective about ourselves (it took more than seven years of therapy for me to stop thinking | looked like the “Elephant Man”) and a sup- portive and loving fric reflect back all th sometin rd to sce in ourselyes. Our physieal self is only a part of our being, so, of course, we need to keep a balanced view of its id can ofte beauty thai ean es be so ha importance, ‘The “before” pictures show where we started and how changing your hair color, eyebrows and/or makeup can help you achieve a different look. They were taken with the ins nd make your self up the way you normally look” and that’s what everyone did Meeting and working with the one of the most reward- tions “to dress, © people was ing experiences I've ever had, Every face tells a story, and to be a er, 1 good makeup artist, designer, photographer, stylist, or hairidres: believe you must be able to “read” the person before you. While impossible to completely cover the endless varieties of human skin ize, and makeup looks that are possible, I tied tone, bone structi to select as diverse a g very open mind about what their “look” would be, while s to look “glamorous,” “sexy,” or “softer.” By the way, nothing extreme done to effect any of these looks. Happily, once told me that they saw them ‘oup of people as T could, Most came in with a some wanted (such as laping) wa the sittings were over, more than ¢ ina whole new way, even without the makeup, Ren any of the looks in this book can be adapted to any face (with adju I taste and style! selve ments to suit your own personsandy When Sandy walked into the studio, and over the next fev hours sie aston ished everyone in the studio. She told us stories about her brother Leopold claborate hairstyles and make up looks for her Seventies, until her son Greg along and followed in his footsteps. Sandy told me that her brother had had that she literally Fell out ofa cal and couldn't get up owas time that Gregory had gone to Paris and spent se much of his money to buy his mother elothes that he lad to call her for a money order so he wouldn't get thrown out of his hotel, She reealled how hucky she was to have son and brother who were also her best lriends, ‘That is why she explained this portrait was so Important to her. “This is a ib. te, you Know, 10 my son aud brother, she said. “I lost both of them to ADS this year When the makeup was finished, she began to ery, wishing that Cregory could have been here to see his ‘orous” mother: Looking in the micron My brother might have made the hair bigger, but then 1 ov again!” AL ght end up on the the end of the shoot, Sandy looked a up there Gregory and Leopold a siniling with joy Sandy hae a rogal countenance and statu that really shows through in this pictur. chose to enhance the structure of her fa with @ makeup application that would di play her great dignity and strength. | rea ed to bring out her soulful eves. zing her brows, thon fii them in. Next, | defned her leshline wit! dark brown shadow, carrying it into th to crew attention te her boautiful a ample eyelids. The lips end chee! emphaszed. but were deliberately a ste below in intensity to her oxpressivo eyes. tweezers chestnut brown brow poneil brow brush concealer warm toned foundation and sponge tissue translucent face powler circular sponge medium brown powder eyeshadow eyeshadow brush dark brown powder eyeshadow light golden-brown powder eyeshadow black powder eyeshadow sponge-tip applicator light beige eye pencil ull false eyelashes with adhesive midneutral-toned lip pencil golden lip gloss soft pink powder blush and blush brustie First, | gtoomed the brovis, taking care to pare away the “heaviness” from the center Of the eye area. (By shortening the brow at the beginning of the eye, the eyes were | then flled them ie with the chestnut brown brow pencil, shaping genty. Funning a brow brush ver the freshly penciled area ‘created 9 saftorlooking application, 3 Concecter wes applied mth my fingartip to just eround the mouth and under the eves toeven out the skin, and along the canter of the nose to creste @ highlighting effect. (Sandy has natural shasing that creates @ dark semi-circle on the upper sides of her ose. Evening this out allovred her ey2s to become the center of atienton,) Noxt, lightly applied warm toned founda tion to the face, being careful te blend into Cha Ls Using tissue, | blotied her skin to absorb extre ol This also allows the pigment to get inte the acin 8 Then the foundation was set with ‘ranslusent faca powder, making sure to carefully blend under the eye right before powderina. Z Medium brown powder eyeshadow was then appiied with a shadow brush to the toute’ half of the lid and krushed inward along the natural crease of the eyelid, Then 2 darker biown eyeshadow was, applies to the eyelid as cose to the lashine {as possible and extended slightly outward, 8 Than the same medium brown eyeshadow ‘was stroked lightly along the bottom of the eyes. w Next @ light goldem-beige shadow was used to softy highlight the browbone and inner half of the eyelid. (This heavyidded chape ca create a sophisticated, sexy look) mn | then lined the inside botiom rim of the eyelid with alight beige eva pencil. ihich helps to “epen” and closn up the oye: 12 Black eyeshadow, epplied with the sponge to epplicator, was used to line the upper leshling. Smudgirg upward using the seme application can create move definition and = thicker lash look, 13 Eyeing a pair of false eyelashes 07 the makeuo table, Sandy asked it | would com sider using them. J, not boing one to stand in the way of glamour, happily complied 4 Sandi's erile was omphasized with 2 mid ‘neutral-ioned lip pencil applied over the ee5 Then, with the smal eyeshadow brush, the black eye pencl Ine’s edges were soitened. 6 Back powder eyeshadow vias then applied (using the ssonge-ti applicator) drectly over tho poncl and smudged. (If you prof Yyou can use your fingertip) The shadow helps to set and further soften the look. 7 Next neutral brown eyeshadow wes applied with @ larger eyeshadow brush, Encircling the entre eve area, be sure to soiten and graduate outward {from the oye itsolf| for ‘that perfect blended lok, 9 Tho lios wore lined with a flash-toned penci 19 match Venesse’s natural coloring 8 Back mascara on curled lashes added just the right touch of sexy delicacy to the over- alllook 10 ‘Then, using the lip brush, | applied « soft caramel-colored crerre lip color te the enti ‘mouth (blotted and re-apalied, shen blotted again)VaneSsa The first time T say Vanessa was ina restaurant, where | was having dinner with my boyiriend. Both he and T were fascinated by her hone structure and beautifull aquiline nose. She was wei ing no makeup and her brown hair was pulled back into a simple ponytail. Her -yes had a Bambi quality that drew me in, Interestingly, Twas soon to learn, her ianocent-looking exterior hid a rather worldly and adventurous interi- or When I asked her if she would be interested in letiing me try a new sexy- blond-bombshell look on’ her, she sim- ply replied, “Sure.” Being an aspiring filmaker and actress, Vanessa knows how important it is to bi change, open to. concealer translucent face powder circular sponge jhe golden-brown brow pencil hair bleach (optional! black aye pencil (small) eyeshadow brush (large) eyeshadow brush black powder eyeshadow sponge-tip applicator neutral brown powder eyeshadow ‘eyelash curler and black mascara Mesfr-toned lip pencil soft caramel-brown lip color Tip brush ‘ieee Rinnk Ai yearns ka rene ees 1 | began by applying a light arc of concealar tothe undereye area, using my finger, and then only in spots To complement her striking new blond hei and eyebrows, | docided to add a bit of seductiveness 10 her eyes. Fist, they wel ‘ined inside both the ton and battom rims with a black eye pencil, paying close etter ‘ion to gong into the lashiina isalt 2 With a circular sponge. loose power was used ta "set" the skin, 3 Light golden brew pencil wes used on her nemly bieached brows, (The color of pencil is dependent on your brow coloring} yt PI5 7 { 2 ‘Thon, with the emall eyeshadow rush, the | Noxt neutral brown eyeshadow was appled | The lips were lined with a flesh-toned perc Dackeye penciline’s edges were | with a larger eyeshadow brush, Encircling to match Venesse's natural coloring | the entire eve area, be sure to soften and graduate outward {from the eye itself] for ‘that perfect blended lock. softened. 6 8 | 10 Black powder eyeshadow was then applied | Black mascara cn curled lashes added just | Then, using the lip brush, | spoliad 2 soft (using the sacnge tip apalcatar} directly tha fight touch of sexy dalcscy to the aver | caramsi-colorad creme lip color to the enti over the pencil and smudged. (If you prefer, alllook, mouth (blotted and re-apoleed, then blotted you can use yaur fingertip) The shadow ‘ again) holes to sot and further soften the look.impact of the: sesimed to be Christy Turlington meets. Angie Dickinson rows bleached for t enjoying he:margarita W gigi Semetimes when you are working on a photo shoot, things don’t always go. according to plan. If you're lucky, the Iwist is in your favor, Fortunately, for this portrait, things were definitely ait going our way! Originally, the po was fo be just of Margarita, Howeve when she arrived on the sel, she had her daughter Gigi in tow. What a great opportunity, Here T got the chance to show you the makeup, applied tw tyo women of dif Clearly, you em see that makeup is age- less. And, with slight adaptations to wy style can be creat ages, your specific needs, 1 by anyone, For Margarita and felt something simple, yet very ant, would work quite well Incidentally, that evening they were atiending an engagement party for prop stylist Michael Solis (Margavita's son and Cigi’s brother), So, the eh worked out well for everyone involved. Togeth *Marcel-esque” for Margarita and with the slightly stylized hain orties-esque” for Gigi, we were able to create an entire look on wo people in Jess than thirty minutes. So much for the notion that glanorous looks take-a lot of time and effort {The makeup steps outinad apply to both Margarita and Gigi) tweezers brown brow pencil clear mascara concealer translucent face powder black eye pencil lsmall) eyeshadow brush cool brown creme eyeshadow eyelash curler and black mascara flech-toned lip pencil soft pink liquid blush 1 Firat, we graomad the brows, by civing them a gentle, welldetined out not severe shape 2 ‘The brows were than filed in with a brown poncil to softy frame tho face, again taking ‘cere not too make them toa hard, and set with a clear mas 3 These were foundationless looks, However, Idd apply a smal bit af cancaalay, but ony vihere needed, 4 | than sat the faces with translucent fave powder Than, 60.as not to ovordramatize tho eyes, but sill gve detinition, |applieda line of black eve nencl to the inside toorim of the eyelid and acked both Margatita and Gigi to sauint hard, This adhered a soft Ine easily othe botiom rim. Then | gently smudged (oth top and bottem) with a small shadow brush. 6 Next a cool brown creme eyeshadow was ‘applied all over the eyelid land gertly under ine eve, being careful (blend awey any distinct edges. The lashes were curled, and 3 black mascara was aven to both the top ‘and bottom lashos. cating of e A flesh-toned lip pencl was used to define ‘and fll n the mouths, 9 Finally, a soft pink liquid blush was dabbad land blended onta the apples of the cheeks, chin and temples. ‘To really emphasize the natural beau- ty of an upturned eye, try using a smoky color (of your choice) applied slightly downward on the inner cor- ner—eneircling the eye and floating upward and outward on the outer cor- ner.dawn As the public relations director for Isaae Mizrahi, Dawn crosses my path a least vice a year, usually backstage at ‘one of Isaae’s shows, where amidst the imautness you cant always find ealm, cool Dawn. Over the years, we've hecome friends, and she has seen me apply makeup to hundreds of women, Laften would mistake her for one of the mac cls, hut there never was an opportunity to do her makeup, So when this hook became a ceality, Limmediately thought of her. For years, Pye heen telling her how beautiful she is with or without makeup). | most aften seo Dawn aller a heetie week of fittings that 14st late into the evening, and on the day of the how she usually forgets ghimour in So together we decided to have some fun and lel her see what it's like to be on the other end of the spotlight favor of corte Bofore the makoup application, Dawn's hair ‘was blown dry, her bangs were outang excensions were added (glamourlength, of course} for @ sexy, sultry look warm golden-toned creme foundation translucent face powder circular sponge tweezere ‘chestnut brown brow pencil neutral-toned powder eyeshadow black powder eyeshadow gold-beige shimmer powder eyeshadow ‘eyelash curler and black mascara ach comb bright fuchsia powder blush dark-toned lip pencil ‘dark blackberry lip color ip brush 1 First | lightly applied a creme foundation vat matched Dew’ skin perfectly (Wfornen of color can avoid "ashiness” with ‘a waim golden-toned foundation.} Loose face powder was disuibuted all over face, inclucing under the ayes and on ayelds, using a circular sponge. Atter lightly tweezing Dawn's brows, [filed them in using a chestnut brow pensil (for warmth 4 Then, to bring out Dewn’s bone structure | chose to use @ neutialtonad eyeshadow which | siroked lightly under the eye toware the outer corner and Into the crease toware tho nese, using tho spongo-tip applicatox10 The finishing touch was a dark blackberry lipstick appited over a dar<-ioned lip penci, party with friend Roman; with co-workers af tha launch of the “Isaac” Ine at S: Avenue; riding a bke on Martha's Vineyardkimberl My sister Kimberly was the last child « Jopted. I remem- ber bringing her pietun: to school for the four of as to be show and tell and explaining to thi class that we had gotten the phone eall to go and pick up my new baby sister Since tis was to be my third br the orphanage, I was completely baf- fled when my teacher asked. “What hospital is your mother in?” When 1 mplied that my mother was not at alll sick and, in faci, would be coming with tus to Shresepart to pick Kimberly up. my teacher smiled and quickly moved on to our phonies lesso Growing up, Kimberly was quite a tomboy. and convineing her to pa pate nearly impossible offers a couple of photos from these The fallawing page arly sessions) Today she is the mother of x0, one of whom she home-sehools. Kimberly loves makeup bi the chance or the occasion to look g 30 we took this opportunity to really change her “look Colorist Christopher-John created one of the most color trans forma ever seen. Kimberly has Hispa 1 her hair is naturale ly jet black. Since she has had air and qwanted to try something nev, Tasked Christopher to lighten her ly a dark ash blond, and that’s exactly what he did. He manag her hair while retaining her natural shine. Together, Kimberly anil 1 decid camratic eyes and a neutral ns Te ed to go ford lip During the shoot we laughed over the photos we had done over twenty years ago and how much she now loves ‘and appreciates « brother whe does makeup for a living. tweezers hair bleach concealer ‘small concealer brush translucent faco povicor circular sponge ‘golden-brown brow pencil black liquid eyoliner black powder eyeshadow ‘sponge-tip applicator ‘small eyeshadow bruh beige powder eyeshadow neutral-toned lip pencil warm pink powder blush blush brush | began by shaping ard bleaching Kimberly's brows tho day 2efare the shoo:, (Kimberly, like so many people, has very sensitive skin, 0 we wanted fo alow her skin some time ‘0 ecovor. Kimborly cannet stand to have her eyebrows plucked, but loves the oper: ress it gives het ayes. So | usually use cold wiax strips, which can be cut into any shope you desire. 2 ncealer was placed under the eye to hel ferknnese in the area. By using 19d only a small amount oF co sealer, | evened out Kimberly's skin The face was then set with wansiucent fac powder using the cular sponge. | annie ‘abit mors under tho ayo, to the middie o the brow, bridge oF the rose and around t ‘mouth, as @ subtle highlighter4 5 7 Since her eyebrows now matched her neir,1 First 2 thickish line of black Iquid eyeliner | Taking the shadow brush from the outer cae sed a golden-brown brow pencil oaccen- was drawn along {as close as possible} the ner of the eve, | crew an arc into the crease ‘uate and lengthen har brow chape. top lashes. ‘of the ayald (emohasizing the shadow on the outer third of the eye! 7 4, = =

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