COSMETICON

BASF FINE CHEMICALS FOR THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY

Cosmetic Concepts for Hair and Skin Care. Comprehensive. Competent. Cooperative.

Our research and development supports your success Ever-changing trends mean that the cosmetics industry has to display a continuous drive for innovation. We see ourselves as being more than just suppliers - we want to play an active part in helping our customers to benefit from the dynamism of international markets. Our forward-looking intensive research and development operations enable us to come up with innovations that meet the ever-changing requirements. Considerable increase in research and development spending in recent years has resulted in a substantial flow of new products. We see change as an opportunity: an opportunity for further development, an opportunity for constant improvement and for expansion. Improvement as regards purity, economy, shelf-life, safety of application and toxicology; product line expansion through innovative cosmetics specialities, such as new polymers that meet all the different environmental, quality and legislative requirements. We aim to help our customers to plan for a successful future.

T e r Whe
e Cosm tic

s n o i t radi

o n n I te a e r c epts c n o C

. s n o i vat

S F. A B from

Assurance through quality All our plans and activities focus on the customer - what he wants and what he needs. So quality, for us, means more than just the quality of our products - it encompasses all the services we provide, from product and process development through production to technical service and logistics. Consistent quality and reliability of delivery are guaranteed not just by our comprehensive quality assurance system but also by the professionalism and dedication of every member of our workforce.

More products and more new products! More is more! Consistent high quality, as we have already said, is one deciding factor nowadays, but the size of the product range is equally important. Intensive research and development in recent years put us into a position to offer you now the widest range of innovative specialities for hair and skincare. Apart from quality and quantity, our good price/performance ratio is what makes our products for the cosmetics industry so attractive. Increased research potential, a wider product range, new specialities, a better price/performance ratio... all ways in which our customers benefit from the integrated systems of BASF Groups.

Door to door, worldwide When we talk about closeness to the customer we mean more than just understanding your problems and requirements - we mean it literally, too. Wherever you are, we're right there with you! With all its international production sites and its dense distribution network, the BASF Group guarantees that our products are available worldwide. Extensive decentralisation gives us the optimum understanding of regional aspects and problems and enables us to react flexibly to your requirements. You only need one contact. We're on the spot, anywhere in the world.

Whenever you need us Product quality is one thing. We believe that customers need reliability. And, for us, that also includes a comprehensive range of services - specific advice on applications technology, trained service personnel, individual attention. We are always where you need us. Worldwide. And... we are always there when you need us. Any time. By building additional technical laboratories in North America, Asia and South America we're finding faster answers to regional questions and problems. We want you to feel secure. That's why you can always contact us, any time, anywhere. Instant advice and instant action. The other half of your successful partnership.

List of contents Hair Care Setting Polymers Luviskol K Products Luviskol VA Products Luviskol Plus Luviset Products Luvimer Products Ultrahold Products Conditioning Polymers and Monoquats Luviquat Products Active Substances Panthenol Phytantriol Summary Hairstyling Polymers Skin Care UV-Absorbers Uvinul Grades Emulsifiers and Solubilizers Cremophor Grades Active Ingredients and Vitamins Alpha-Bisabolol Panthenol Phytantriol Vitamin A Esters Vitamin E Retinol Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Auxiliaries/Colorants Solvents and Neutralizers 1,2-Propylene Glycol USP Dipropylene Glycol n-Propanol USP Triethanolamine Neutrol TE Luvitol EHO Lutrol Grades Colorants Sicovit Grades Sicomet Grades UV-Filters (Product Protection) Uvinul Products Complexing Agents Edeta B Products 7 8 8 9 11 12 13 14 15 15 17 17 18 19 21 22 22 23 23 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 35 36 36 36 36 36 36 37 37 37 37 37 38 38 38 38

Tradition and Innovation in Hair Care

BASF entered the field of hair cosmetics more than 50 years ago when the first aerosol hair sprays were based on polyvinylpyrrolidone. Since then, hair cosmetics would have been inconceivable without Luviskol. A BASF product name has quite simply become synonymous with hair-styling polymers, especially in Europe. Innovation is the basis of our success. Consumers' wishes change and so too does the demand for styling and conditioning products. For the success of our customers, we are always the crucial hair's breadth ahead with our raw materials. Hair Care

Setting Polymers

Luviskol K Products
Hair Care
Chemical description: INCI: Products and appearance: Luviskol Luviskol Luviskol Luviskol Luviskol Luviskol Luviskol Luviskol Product profile: K K K K K K K K 17 30 80 90 30 60 85 90 powder powder powder powder solution solution solution solution Homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with a variety of molecular weights PVP Molecular weight in KD 7-11 45-55 700-1000 1200-2000 45-55 400-500 900-1200 1200-2000 K value 15-19 27-33 74-82 88-96 27-33 52-62 83-88 90-103

about about about about

30 45 20 20

% % % %

Luviskol K products are mainly used as film formers, but also as thickeners. The molecular weight determines the setting and adhesive properties of PVP polymers; the higher the molecular weight, the greater the setting. They are ideal for use in water-based applications where a high degree of clarity is required in the finished product (e.g. gels). For hair-styling applications K 30, K 80 and K 85 are the best of the various molecular weights. Water-soluble in high concentrations to form clear solutions Forms clear, homogeneous films At low relative humidity the films are hard and brittle; at high relative humidity they are elastic and soft High water-absorption capacity Mixtures with polyacrylates, polyquats, salts, acids and bases are possible; high compatibility with many other cosmetic ingredients Nonionic, no neutralisation required Hair gels, in particular wetlook gels, hair mousses, pump sprays, liquid hair setting preparations Luviskol K 30: for products with normal hold, for which low viscosity is important (e.g. pump sprays) Luviskol K 80, K 85 and K 90: for products with a strong hold and high viscosity (e.g. hair gels and hair mousses) For products where lower tack and better curl retention are desired, Luviskol VA copolymers are particularly suitable

Properties:

Applications:

Setting Polymers

Luviskol VA Products
Chemical description: INCI Products and appearance: Copolymers of Vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and Vinyl Acetate (VA) PVP/VA Copolymers 50 % solutions in ethanol: Luviskol VA 37 E (30:70) *) Luviskol VA 37 HM Luviskol VA 55 E (50:50) Luviskol VA 73 E (70:30)
*) VP:VAc ratio, % by weight

50 % solutions in isopropanol Luviskol VA 37 I Luviskol VA 55 I 50 % solutions in water Luviskol VA 64 W Luviskol VA 73 W Free-flowing powder Luviskol VA 64 P Product profile: Versatile film-formers for formulating hair-styling products. Properties and differentiation are determined by the VP/VA ratio in the polymer. The series includes alcoholic (ethanol, isopropanol), aqueous and powder products. Medium to strong hold Nonionic, no neutralisation required Water-soluble or dispersable Easy to wash out Non-foaming Easy to handle Compatible with ionic additives Easy to comb out Makes the hair shiny Propane/butane compatibility 20-45 % DME compatibility > 70 % All important hair-styling applications, such as aerosol sprays, pump sprays, mousses, setting lotions and gels.

Properties:

Applications:

Hair Care

Setting Polymers

Hair Care

possible not possible

Luviskol VA solutions in alcohol VA 37 VA 55 VA 73 3-7 3-5 3-6* 3-7 3-5 3-6* 3-6* 3-6 3-6 3-6 1-5 1-5 1-5 1-5 1-4 1-4

Luviskol VA 64 powder VA 64 2-6 2-5 2-5 2-5 2-5

Luviskol VA solutions in water 64 W 73 W

Pump sprays Compressed gas Hairspray with 30 % propane/butane 40 % propane/butane Hairspray with dimethyl ether Low VOC hair spray 80 % VOC 55 % VOC Mousse Lotion Gel
* addition of water necessary

3-6 3-6 3-6

1-5 1-4 1-4

1-5 1-4 1-4

1-5 1-4 1-4

Water absorption
Water absorption [%] 50 Luviskol VA 73 40 Luviskol VA 64 30 20 10 Luviskol VA 55

Propane/butane compatibility (-10 C)

% 70 60 50 40 Luviskol VA 37 30 20 10 0

20

40 60 75 90 relative atmospheric humidity [%]

VA 73

VA 64

VA 55

VA 37

Water absorption of Luviskol VA films as a function of relative atmospheric humidity at 20 C

3 % polymer in ethanol (water content 2-5 %)

Classification of important selection criteria

o Pr c du t V Pn co te nt y ilit ter lub wa o S in ic/ re y at tu ilit im ois tab l C m s Ta in ck es s

VA 73 VA 64 VA 55 VA 37

70 % 60 % 50 % 30 %

10

Setting Polymers

Luviskol Plus
Chemical description: INCI: Products and appearance: Product profile: Properties Homopolymer of Vinylcaprolactam Polyvinylcaprolactam 40 % ethanolic solution Luviskol Plus is a new film-former for the hair-styling sector Excellent curl retention; and therefore long lasting hold even at high relative humidity Strong hold Low tack Excellent odour profile, i.e. almost no intrinsic odour Simple handling; the nonionic polymer does not require neutralisation Broad formulation spectrum; both for nonaqueous and aqueous hair sprays, even very suitable for formulations with 55 % VOC Extremely high compatibility with propellants, in particular propane and butane. For markets with high solvent prices, allows low-cost formulations Hair-styling products, in particular aerosol sprays (inc. VOC), pump sprays and setting lotions

Applications:

11

Hair Care

Setting Polymers

Luviset Products
Hair Care
Chemical description: Luviset CA 66: Copolymer based on vinyl acetate and crotonic acid Luviset CAP: Terpolymer based on vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and vinyl propionate VA/Crotonates Copolymer VA/Crotonates/Vinyl Propionate Copolymer Luviset CA 66: white powder Luviset CAP: white powder The Luviset grades are recommended for use in medium to low cost hair-setting preparations. Good hold Medium to good curl retention Good price/performance ratio When formulating aerosol sprays with Luviset CA 66, dimethyl ether should be used as propellant, because compatibility with propane/ butane is limited. Both products can be combined with other polymers in order to modify the properties of the haircare preparation as desired. Applications: Aerosol and pump sprays

INCI:

Products and appearance:

Product profile:

Properties:

12

Setting Polymers

Luvimer Products
Chemical description: INCI: Products and appearance: Terpolymers based on t-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid Acrylates Copolymer Luvimer Luvimer Luvimer Luvimer 100 P; white powder 36 D: 36 % dispersion in water 30 E: 30 % solution in ethanol Low VOC: 36 % dispersion in water

Product profile:

Luvimer products have been developed specifically for modern, good-value and strong-hold formulations. At 100 % neutralisation they are completly soluble in water. Luvimer Low VOC has a lower molecular weight than Luvimer 36 D giving a lower viscosity in solution, so that small particle sizes can be achieved even in aqueous sprays. Very good hold Long lasting hold, i.e. very good curl retention Clear solution in water at 100 % neutralisation Low odour profile Very economical Solids content in % Luvimer 100 P, 36 D, 30 E Aerosol spray normal hold strong hold extra-strong hold Pump spray Compressed gas Mousse Lotion 1.5-2 3-4 5-6 2-5 2-5 3-5 2-4

Properties:

Applications:

13

Hair Care

Setting Polymers

Ultrahold Products
Hair Care
Chemical description: INCI: Products and appearance: Terpolymers of acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer Ultrahold 8: white powder Ultrahold Strong: white powder Ultrahold 8 and Strong are acrylate polymers with excellent application properties. Ultrahold 8 and Strong differ in molecular weight and acid value. The higher molecular weight of Ultrahold Strong improves the setting effect. A higher acid value ensures water-compatibility and excellent wash-out properties. High curl retention Low tack of the films, even at high relative humidity Exceptionally high propane/butane compatibility. Ultrahold 8 is compatible with propane/butane up to 60 %, Ultrahold Strong up to appr. 50 %. Combination with other polymers (preferably nonionic ones) is possible, e.g. Ultrahold Strong with Luviskol VA 37 for hair sprays which have strong hold and additional elasticity. Hair sprays, lotions, mousses

Product profile:

Properties:

Applications:

14

Conditioning Polymers and Monoquats

Luviquat Products
Chemical description: Products and appearance: Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat PQ 11 FC 370 FC 550 FC 905 HM 552 MS 370 Hold Mono CP Aqueous solutions of cationic polymers and quaternized alkylamines INCI Polyquaternium-11 Polyquaternium-16 Polyquaternium-16 Polyquaternium-16 Polyquaternium-16 Polyquaternium-44 Polyquaternium-46 Hydroxyethyl Cetyldimonium Phosphate Cocotrimonium Methosulfate Concentration 20 40 40 40 20 40 20 30 % % % % % % % %

Luviquat Mono LS

30 %

Product profile:

The Luviquat products are substantive, cationic compounds for use in conditioners, shampoos, hair-setting products, hair rinses, perms, bleaches and colorants. Improve the wet combability of the hair Prevent electrostatic charging of dry hair Additional protection, as the products coat the hair, reducing attack on the surface of the hair Give the hair volume and hold In skin care preparations, impart a smooth and supple feel to the skin The technical properties of the individual Luviquat products are influenced by their molecular weight and their cationic activity. A high molecular weight increases not only the viscosity in the solution (advantageous for hair mousses and shampoos), but also gives good hold. Luviquat PQ 11, Luviquat Hold and Luviquat HM 552 are thus preferentially used in products where, in addition to the conditioning effect, a strong setting effect is also desired. The setting effect can even exceed that of traditional hair spray polymers, so that Luviquat Hold and Luviquat PQ 11 can be used to formulate pump sprays having excellent setting and good conditioning effects. The tack of Luviquat Hold films is much lower than in the case of other polyquaternary compounds. The cationic activity influences conditioning (wet combability) and compatibility with anionic products, e.g. with carbomers. In view of its low cationic activity, Luviquat Hold is also suitable for hair gels, giving transparent gels with a good conditioning effect.

Properties:

15

Hair Care

Conditioning Polymers and Monoquats

Hair Care

Products Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat Luviquat PQ 11 FC 370 FC 550 HM 552 FC 905 MS 370 Hold

Molecular weight ca. 1,000,000 ca. 100,000 ca. 80,000 ca. 400,000 ca. 40,000 ca. 150,000 ca. 700,000

Cationic activity (meq/g) 0.8 2.0 3.3 3.0 6.1 1.4 0.5

Comparison of the conditioning and setting effects Conditioning Very strong Luviquat FC 905 Luviquat FC 550 Luviquat FC 370/ MS 370 Poor Poor Good Setting power Very good Luviquat HM 552 Luviquat PQ 11 Luviquat Hold

Strong

Monoquats

The ideal addition to the polymeric Luviquat line are the monoquaternary Luviquat Mono CP and Luviquat Mono LS. They are excellent conditioning products, especially suitable for conditioning rinses, hair treatments and hair mousses. In certain cases, they can also replace the solubilizer in formulations.
Hair styling Mousse, lotion Gel *) Spray Hair conditioning Conditioning rinse Shampoo hair treatment Styling and conditioning with only one polymer, even at high atmospheric humidity Good setting, exceptionally creamy foam Strong conditioning, recommended for combinations with Luviskol VA 64 Very strong conditioning, good skin feel Strong conditioning, compatible with anionic components Medium conditioning, versatile Medium conditioning, versatile Very strong conditioning, reduction of static charge, foam stabilizer and emulsifier; Luviquat Mono LS also as solubilizer
Particularly suitable Suitable Suitable under certain conditions *) Depending on the concentration used, slight turbidity may occur in carbomer gels Not suitable **) Cationic surfactants

Applications:

Luviquat Hold Luviquat PQ 11 Luviquat HM 552 Luviquat FC 905 Luviquat FC 550 Luviquat FC 370 Luviquat MS 370 Luviquat Mono LS** Luviquat Mono CP**

16

Active Substances

Panthenol
Chemical description: INCI: Products and appearance: D-Panthenol Panthenol D-Panthenol, USP (provitamin B5): colourless, clear, high-viscosity, somewhat hygroscopic liquid, which can solidify on prolonged storage D-Panthenol 50 P: colourless, clear, low-viscosity liquid (50 % D-panthenol solution in 1,2-propylene glycol) D-Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is the most frequently used provitamin in cosmetics. Because of its physical properties, it can easily be incorporated into all customary cosmetic formulations. It penetrates the hair to a high degree and achieves to a high degree the effects required by manufacturers and consumers. Compared with pantothenic acid, D-panthenol has improved stability, in particular in liquid formulations. Imparts elasticity, shine and long lasting moisture to the hair Reduces split ends Improves the condition of damaged hair (e.g. caused by washing and brushing) Prevents the hair from drying out Improves the combability of the hair Ideal for use in modern haircare products, such as hair sprays, hairsetting products, hair mousses, hair rinses and shampoos.

Product profile:

Properties:

Applications:

17

Hair Care

Active Substances

Phytantriol
Haar Care
Chemical description: INCI: Product and appearance: 3,7,11,15-Tetramethyl-1,2,3-hexadecanetriol Phytantriol Phytantriol is an effective humectant and penetration enhancer for active substances such as D-panthenol, vitamin A and vitamin E. Slightly yellowish, transparent, viscous liquid (content min. 90 %); soluble in mineral and natural oils, insoluble in water Improves the moisture balance in hair Protects against mechanical damage (e.g. by combing) Enhances the effect of D-panthenol and vitamins Imparts shine and suppleness to hair Easy to incorporate, good solubility in oil phases of creams and lotions Good stability at temperatures up to 80 C Shampoos, hair rinses, conditioners.

Properties:

Applications:

18

Summary Hairstyling Polymers

BASF offers the most extensive range of polymers for hairstyling. It is the result of a long-term commitment, high competence and strong R & D efforts for this segment in the cosmetic industry. There is hardly any hairstyling product which cannot be formulated by using one or several products of this broad range. To make the choice as simple as possible the following guidelines can be used to find the optimal polymer for a desired application:

Gels Wet look gels Sculpture gels

Most recommended polymers Luviskol K 30 Luviskol K 85, K 90 Luviskol VA 64 P, W and 73 W Luviquat Hold or Luviskol VA 64 with Luviquat Hold or Luviquat PQ 11 Most recommended polymers Luviskol VA 64 P/W, VA 73 W Luviskol VA 64 with Luviquat Hold/PQ 11/HM 552

Remarks The classical polymer Strong setting Crystal clear gels, reduced hygroscopicity, widely used Degree of setting and conditioning can easily be adjusted

Sculpture gels with conditioning effect

Mousses Styling mousses Styling and conditioning mousses

Remarks Successful classics Degree of conditioning can easily be adjusted, Luviquat Hold provides good curl retention and low tack Luviquat Mono LS is recommended as conditioning enhancer, foam stabilizer and solubilizer Remarks Easy to handle, good combability and feel strong setting, very efficient most efficient for formulations with water

Conditioning mousses

Luviquat PQ 11 or Luviquat HM 552 in combination with Luviquat Mono LS Most recommended polymers Luviskol VA 37 Luvimer 100 P Luvimer 36 D

Pumpsprays Setting lotions

19

Hair Care

Summary Hairstyling Polymers

Summary Hairstyling Polymers

Aerosol Sprays
Hair Care
This application requires the most diversified features of polymers since a variety of performance properties but also formulation restrictions have to be considered. The following spider graph characterizes some important features of the major hairspray polymers of this extensive range.
Performance in reduced VOC formulations Setting, hold Curl retention Luviskol VA 37 Luvimer Ultrahold Strong Luviskol Plus

Hydrocarbon compatibility

Absence of tack

Flexibility, feel on the hair Easy to handle Low odour

For the selection of the right aerosol hairspray polymer the following guidelines can be used: Performance features Main concern Strong setting Humidity resistance Feel, Managability of the hair BASF recommendation Ultrahold Strong Luvimer Ultrahold Strong Luvimer Luviskol VA 37 Ultrahold Strong Empfehlung der BASF BASF recommendation Luviskol VA 37 Luvimer 36 D, 30 E Luviskol Plus Luviskol VA 37 Luviskol Plus Luviskol Plus (> 60 %) Ultrahold, Luvimer ( 50 %) Luvimer Low VOC Luviskol Plus BASF recommendation Luvimer 36 D, for VOC 80 % formulations Luvimer 100 P/30 E, for normal formulations Luviskol Plus, for formulations with high amounts of hydrocarbons

Formulation features

Hauptanliegen Main concern Easy to handle, liquid No neutralization High hydrocarbon compatibility Low VOC formulations

Price/performance ratio

Main concern Low cost per can of hairspray

20

Tradition and Innovation in Skin Care

BASF has been a reliable partner for the cosmetics industry over many years an innovative company with high quality products and global presence. UV absorbers, vitamins, solubilizers, emulsifiers, solvents, and other active ingredients as well as colorants and auxiliaries make up our comprehensive range of products which meets all needs, and is continually expanding. Take a look at the following products summaries and see for yourself!

21

Skin Care

UV Absorbers

Uvinul Grades
The extensive Uvinul product line offers a range of UV absorbers as a basic for formulating a broad range of sunscreen products enabling individual consumer requirements to be fulfilled globally. Product profile: Uvinul M 40 INCI: Benzophenone-3 Oil-soluble broad spectrum UV absorber with a variety of applications Uvinul MS 40 INCI: Benzophenone-4 Water-soluble broad spectrum UV absorber with a variety of applications Uvinul N 539 T INCI: Octocrylene Oil miscible UV-B absorber, activity enhancer; stabilises Parsol 1789 Uvinul P 25 INCI: PEG-25 PABA Water-soluble UV-B absorber Uvinul T 150 INCI: Octyl Triazone Oil-soluble UV-B absorber with extremely high UV absorption; low skin penetration, high photo stability, protects against UV-B induced immune suppression Uvinul MC 80, MC 80 T, MC 80 N INCI: Octyl Methoxycinnamate Oil-miscible UV-B filter approved worldwide; the most used UV absorber in the world; in three variants (stabilised with BHT, alpha-tocopherol and unstabilised); very high purity (>99.5 %); always Ames negative due to BASFs patented process Uvinul MBC 95 INCI: Methylbenzylidene Camphor Oil-soluble UV-B absorber with high UV absorption; stabilises Parsol 1789
solubility water oil soluble soluble UV-Absorption broad spectrum UV-B (UV-A+UV-B) approval EEC USA

Skin Care

Highes t absor ption of all a vailable UVB ab sorbers

UV-Absorbers
INCI Japan

Uvinul M 40 Uvinul MS 40 Uvinul N 539 T Uvinul MC 80 Uvinul T 150 Uvinul MBC 95 Uvinul P 25

Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-4 Octrocrylene Octyl Methoxycinnamate Octyl Triazone Methylbenzylidene Camphor PEG-25 PABA -

22

Emulsifiers and Solubilizers

Cremophor Grades
Solubilizers Product and appearance: Cremophor CO 40; also available as pharmaceutical grade Cremophor RH 40 INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Viscous liquid or soft paste Cremophor CO 410 Contains 10 % water INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Viscous liquid Cremophor CO 455 Contains 5 % water and 5 % propylene glycol INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Viscous liquid Cremophor CO 60 INCI: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Viscous liquid or soft paste Cremophor EL INCI: PEG-35 Castor Oil Pale yellow viscous liquid Effective solubilizers which can be used for aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions which are enriched with fragrances or essential oils. Also effective in making products which may be improved by the addition of hydrophobic vitamins or speciality active ingredients. Cremophor CO 410 and CO 455 are also suitable as co-emulsifiers for formulating emulsions prepared without heat, this can result in a more cost effective and time saving production. High quality Effective in low concentrations Easy to handle Can also be used as a co-emulsifier (stabilising effect)

Product profile:

Properties:

23

Skin Care

Emulsifiers and Solubilizers

Emulsifiers Product and appearance: Cremophor A 25 INCI: Ceteareth-25 White microbeads Cremophor A 6 INCI: Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearyl Alcohol White wax The O/W emulsifier-team of Cremophor A 25/A 6 offers considerable advantages for formulating stable emulsions. Freedom in the choice of oil polarities (unlimited use of a wide variety of different oils) Flexibility of viscosity control by varying the concentration of Cremophor A 6. Creams and lotions can both be prepared easily Cosmetic brilliance as a result of the white and glossy texture which this emulsifier combination produces Cremophor WO 7 INCI: PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Cloudy, slightly yellow, viscous liquid Emulsifier for W/O creams and lotions. Ideal for soft emulsions and lowviscosity body lotions. Also suitable for emulsification without heat. Cremophor GS 32 INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate White powder PEG-free emulsifier for O/W creams and lotions, especially for use in sunscreen preparations and hypoallergenic cosmetic products. Cremophor GO 32 INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate Yellowish, clear to slightly cloudy liquid PEG-free emulsifier for W/O creams and lotions, particularly suitable for baby cosmetics and products for dry skin. Also suitable for emulsification without heat.

Product profile

Properties:

Skin Care

Product and appearance:

Product profile:

Product and appearance:

Product profile:

Product and appearance:

Product profile:

Emulsifiers Cremophor Cremophor Cremophor Cremophor Cremophor 24 A6 A 25 WO 7 GS 32 GO 32

o/w

w/o

PEG-free

Emulsifiers and Solubilizers

The entire line at a glance Trade name Cremophor CO 40 Cremophor CO 60 Cremophor CO 410 Cremophor CO 455 Cremophor EL Cremophor A 25 Cremophor A 6 Cremophor WO 7 Cremophor GS 32 Cremophor GO 32 INCI PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Propylene Glycol PEG-35 Castor Oil Ceteareth-25 Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearyl Alcohol PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate Supplied as viscous liquid or soft paste viscous liquid or soft paste viscous liquid viscous liquid pale yellow viscous liquid white microbeads white wax cloudy, slightly yellowish viscous liquid white powder yellowish, clear to slightly cloudy liquid HLB 14-16 15-17 14-16 14-16 12-14 15-17 10-12 ca. 5 ca. 13 ca. 5

25

Skin Care

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Active Ingredients
Products alpha-Bisabolol D-Panthenol Phytantriol Vitamin A acetate Vitamin A palmitate Vitamin E Vitamin E acetate Retinol 10 CM Retinol 10 S Retinol 50 C Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Essential efficiency claims anti inflammatory wound healing, humectant penetration enhancer, moisturizer improves skin texture in vivo/in vitro antioxidant moisturizer prevents skin damage by free radicals (in vivo antioxidant) increases skin cell formation improves the appearance of the skin smoothens fine lines and wrinkles cell protection due to free radical deactivation skin lightener improves collagen formation

Skin Care

26

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Alpha-Bisabolol
Products: Alpha-Bisabolol nat. Alpha-Bisabolol rac. Bisabolol (-)-alpha-Bisabolol nat. is an optically active unsaturated sesquiterpene alcohol obtained by extraction from natural material. (-)-alpha-Bisabolol nat. is the main constituent of camomile and has an anti-inflammatory, antiphlogistic action (+/-)-alpha-Bisabolol rac. is a racemic sesquiterpene alcohol synthesised from vitamin synthesis intermediates Both (-) and also (+/-) Alpha-Bisabolol are used in skin care. An investigation into the anti-inflammatory action of Alpha-Bisabolol, has shown that Alpha-Bisabolol has an anti-inflammatory effect in the treatment of an UV erythema on human skin. Appearance: Clear, colourless to slightly yellowish liquid. Slightly flowery, sweetish odour. Soluble in ethanol and isopropanol, in natural, mineral and synthetic fats and oils. Insoluble in water and glycerol (solubilizers, such as Cremophor RH 40 or Cremophor CO 40 and Luviquat Mono CP or Luviquat Mono LS can be used to prepare clear, aqueous solutions). Ideal for the prophylaxis and care of sensitive skin, especially for baby and child care products, sunscreens, pre/after-sun products, pre/after shaves, oral hygiene preparations, toothpastes, shaving creams and foams, and permanent wave products.

INCI: Product profile:

Applications:

27

Skin Care

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Panthenol
Products: D-Panthenol, USP D-Panthenol 50 P Panthenol Panthenol (and) Propylene Glycol D-Phantenol, also known as pro-vitamin B5, is the pro-vitamin used most frequently in cosmetics. Its physical properties ensure easy incorporation into typical cosmetic formulations. Compared with pantothenic acid, DPanthenol has greater stability, in particular in liquid formulations. Prevents vitamin B5 deficiency Improves and increases the moisture-retaining ability of the skin (longlasting moisturiser) Dry skin remains supple and elastic for longer Has a wound healing effect (alleviates skin irritation and redness; minor wounds, skin grazes and bruises heal more quickly) Stimulates epithelization and pigmentation Improves normal keratinization of the skin D-Panthenol USP (pro-vitamin B5): colourless, clear, high-viscosity, somewhat hygroscopic liquid which may solidify upon prolonged storage. D-Panthenol 50 P: colourless, clear, low-viscosity liquid (50 % D-Panthenol solution in 1,2-propylene glycol USP) D-Panthenol is readily soluble in water, ethanol, methanol and 1,2-propylene glycol and is insoluble in oils and fats; stable at room temperature, stable against light and air. Above 70 C, partial racemization and cleavage to aminopropanol occurs. Recommended pH range: 4-8. Applications: Ideal for use in modern skin care products, such as sunscreen preparations, after sun products, skin creams for daily use, night creams, multivitamin creams, body lotions, gels.

INCI:

Product profile:

Properties:

Skin Care

Products and appearance:

28

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Phytantriol
INCI: Product profile: Phytantriol Phytantriol is an effective moisture-retaining agent and an effective penetration-enhancer for active substances such as panthenol, vitamin A and vitamin E. Increases the moisture-retaining ability of the skin Enhances the effect of panthenol and vitamins Makes the skin smooth and supple Acts as a spreading booster, in particular for UV filters Slightly yellowish, transparent, viscous liquid (content at least 90 %): soluble in mineral and natural oils, insoluble in water Easy to process, good solubility in the oil phase of creams and lotions Good stability at temperatures up to 80 C High effectiveness at low use concentrations Skin creams for daily use, multivitamin creams, sunscreen creams and lotions

Properties:

Appearence:

Applications:

29

Skin Care

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Vitamin A Esters
Products: Vitamin A palmitate 1.7/1.0 Mio. IU/g Vitamin A acetate 1.5 Mio. IU/g Retinyl Palmitate Retinyl Acetate Vitamin A esters are used in skin care products especially in facial products, for the improvement of the general skin texture. Vitamin A palmitate differs from vitamin A acetate by virtue of its higher stability in cosmetic preparations. Improves epithelization (thickens the epidermis) Normalises keratinization Increases mitosis activity Improves the skins elasticity Normalises enzyme activity Counters the effects of ageing At room temperature, a viscous yellow oil, from which vitamin A esters can partially crystallise. Vitamin A acetate 1.5 Mio IU/g and vitamin A palmitate 1.0 Mio IU/g are adjusted by adding pharmaceutical grade peanut oil. Insoluble in water. Soluble in hydrocarbons, ethers, fats and oils. In aqueous-alcoholic preparations, the use of solubilizers (e.g. Cremophor RH 40 and Cremophor CO 40) is necessary. For cosmetic oils and emulsions (creams, lotions, body milk, gels, etc.) and other preparations (lipsticks, masks etc.).

INCI:

Product profile:

Properties:

Appearance:

Skin Care

Applications:

30

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Vitamin E
Products: Vitamin E Vitamin E acetate Tocopherol Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopherol is frequently used as a cosmetic antioxidant. The combination of tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate is particularly effective. In cosmetic preparations, it is possible to increase the antioxidizing effect by combination with complexing agents (such as citric acid). Tocopherol can be used, for example, to stabilise retinol (vitamin A). Because of the sensitivity to light and air, tocopheryl is less stable than tocopheryl acetate. In order to guarantee vitamin efficiency on the skin tocopheryl acetate is primarily used due to its better stability. Increases the moisture-retaining ability of the epidermis Improves the skins surface relief and feel (softness, suppleness) Has an anti-inflammatory effect Reduces lipid peroxidation Prevents skin damage by free radicals For tocopherol: protects cosmetical formulations from oxidation Colourless or yellow to brown, viscous, practically odourless oil. Soluble in hydrocarbons, alcohols, fats and oils; insoluble in water. In aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic preparations (toners, gels etc.), solubilizers, such as Cremophor RH 40 or Cremophor CO 40, are necessary. For the use in cosmetic emulsions, such as sunscreen preparations, body lotions, hand creams, body creams, day and night facial creams, multi-vitamin creams. Also in skin oils and other preparations for example, decorative cosmetics (lip care sticks, mascara, eyeshadow, blusher, powder, make-up).

INCI:

Product profile:

Properties:

Appearance:

Applications:

31

Skin Care

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

! ffective Highly e ern skin care d For mo . ts c u prod

Retinol
Products: Retinol 10 CM Retinol 10 S Retinol 50 C Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Retinol Soybean (Glycine Soja) Oil (and) Retinol Retinol (and) Polysorbate 20

INCI:

Product profile:

Retinol, vitamin A-alcohol, is essential for the growth, development and structural integrity of skin and mucous membranes. It has a positive effect on the formation of new skin cells and thus improves the appearance of the skin; fine lines and wrinkles are smoothened. Aid in the maintenance of epithelial cells especially after exposure to UV light Improves the appearance of the skin, fine lines Improves the moisture content of the stratum corneum Retinol 10 CM 10 % solution of retinol in Mygliol; stabilised with tocopherol and vitamin C palmitate Yellowish oil Retinol 10 S 10 % solution of retinol in soybean oil; stabilised with BHT Yellowish oil Retinol 50 C 50 % blend of retinol and polysorbate 20; stabilised with BHT and BHA Yellowish oil Creams, lotions, gels, bath preparations, etc. for improvement and caring for ageing skin and also for the treatment of skin damage caused by UV light.

Properties:

Appearance:

Skin Care

Applications:

32

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

! ffective Highly e ern skin care d For mo . ts c u prod

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

INCI: Product profile: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a stable vitamin C derivative for use in high-activity skin care products. In the skin vitamin C is released. Protection of the skin cells: as a reductive substance, vitamin C can capture aggressive oxidants and free-radicals in the skin and deactivate them. (Such aggressors are produced by many different environmental influences, in particular intensive solar radiation.) Lightening of the skin: vitamin C is able to suppress pigmentation of the skin and degrade melanin. It thus prevents the formation of freckles, moles and agepigmentation. Promotion of the skin elasticity: vitamin C improves collagen formation. Beige powder. At least 45 % vitamin C content (HPLC). Extremely soluble in water (high dissolution rate). Preparations to protect against sunburn, care products to protect against everyday environmental influences, preparations to lighten the skin, cosmetics to conceal freckles and age-pigmentation, vitamin creams.

Properties:

Appearance:

Applications:

33

Skin Care

Active Ingredients and Vitamins

Stability of sodium ascorbyl phosphate (NaASMP) compared with ascorbic acid (Asc) 0.2 % in water, 20 C, pH 7

Stability, % 100 100 100 98.3 Na-ASMP 98.4

90 87.4 80 76.9 70 70.4 Asc 68.5

60

50 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 Days 70 80 90 100 110

Skin Care

34

Auxiliaries and Colorants

BASF offers a wide range of colorants and auxiliaries which are used in almost all cosmetic applications and represent an indispensable part of the final formulation. BASFs broad integrated production capability makes it possible to offer these products at favourable cost and in high quality. Together with the specialities for hair care and skin care products, this wide range of auxiliaries and colorants represents a comprehensive product line from a single source.

35

Auxiliaries and Colorants

Solvents and Neutralisers

1,2-Propylene Glykol USP

INCI: Product profile: Propylene Glycol Water-miscible, odourless solvent of low volatility and very high purity. Particularly suitable for cosmetic applications.

Dipropylene Glykol
INCI: Product profile: Dipropylene Glycol Low volatility, water-miscible solvent and moisture-retaining agent for cosmetic applications.

n-Propanol USP
INCI: Product profile: Propyl Alcohol Moderately volatile, polar solvent of very high purity with a mild odour, especially suitable for cosmetic applications.

Triethanolamine
Product: Triethanolamine Pure C Triethanolamine 90 %; contains approx. 10 % water Triethanolamine Pure C and Triethanolamine 90 % surpass the European requirements for diethanolamine content and nitrosamine content. Triethanolamine Almost colourless liquid, miscible with water and alcohols. Widely used neutralising agent for skin and hair care preparations. Especially for the gel production used to neutralize polyacrylic acid (Carbomer).

INCI: Product profile:

Colorants and Auxiliaries

Neutrol TE
INCI: Product profile: Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylendiamine Clear, viscous liquid, soluble in water, ethanol, isopropanol and propylene glycol. Neutrol TE is especially suitable for neutralising carbomer resins, e.g. for the production of gels. The gels feature a high alcohol compatibility.

36

Solvents and Neutralisers

Luvitol EHO
INCI: Product profile: Cetearyl Octanoate Clear oil, easy to emulsify, improves the spreadability of cosmetic emulsions, softens and smoothens the skin.

Lutrol Grades
INCI: PEG PEG PEG PEG PEG 6 8 32 75 150 E E E E E 300 400 1500 4000 6000

Product:

Lutrol Lutrol Lutrol Lutrol Lutrol

Product profile:

Lutrol E 300 and 400 readily dissolve numerous substances that are sparingly soluble in water. For this reason, the liquid Lutrol E grades are primarily used as solvents for liquid preparations. Lutrol E 1500, 4000 and 6000 are binders, solubilizers and absorption promoters for substances that are insoluble or sparingly soluble in water, e.g. oil-soluble vitamins. The Lutrol grades are also used as non-irritating humectants and moisturizers in cosmetic formulations.

Colorants

Sicovit Grades
Product profile: Colorants for foods, drugs and cosmetic products.

Sicomet Grades
Product profile: Colorants exclusively for cosmetic products.

37

Colorants and Auxiliaries

UV Filters (Product Protection)

Uvinul Products
Products: Uvinul D 50 INCI: Benzophenone-2 Uvinul M 40 INCI: Benzophenone-3 Uvinul D 49 INCI: Benzophenone-6 Uvinul M 493 INCI: Benzophenone-11 Uvinul 400 INCI: Benzophenone-1 Uvinul MS 40 INCI: Benzophenone-4 Uvinul DS 49 INCI: Benzophenone-9 Protect the colours in cosmetic products from fading Improve the oxidation stability of perfume oils and active substances Stabilise the viscosity of gels and shampoos The use of UV filters for product protection is essential in preparations which are exposed directly to UV radiation, for example, transparent packaging. A concentration of 0.05 to 0.5 % is normally required. In these concentrations, Uvinul products are not subject to official regulations.

Properties:

Applications:

Complexing Agents

Edeta B Products
Products and appearance: Edeta B liquid: Aqueous solution of the tetra-sodium salt of EDTA INCI: Tetrasodium EDTA Edeta B powder: Na4 EDTA INCI: Tetrasodium EDTA Edeta BD: Dihydrate of the disodium salt of EDTA INCI: Disodium ETDA Edeta BS: H4 EDTA INCI: EDTA Edeta B products are organic complexing agents for the cosmetics industry.

Colorants and Auxiliaries

Product profile:

38

Note The data submitted in this publication are based on our current knowledge and experience. They do not constitute a guarantee in the legal sense of the term and, in view of the manifold factors that may affect processing and application, do not relieve processors of the responsibility of carrying out their own tests and experiments. Any relevant patent rights and existing legislation and regulations must be observed.

Please contact your local BASF company or one of the following regional centres: Japan: BASF Japan Ltd. Tokyo Office Nambu Bldg. 3-3, Kioicho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo 102 Tel. (3) 32 38-22 02 Telefax (3) 32 38-22 04 Hong Kong: BASF East Asia Regional Headquarters Ltd. Tower 1, 4th floor South Seas Centre 75, Mody Road Tsim Sha Tsui East Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel. 27 31 01 11 Telefax 23 01 29 93 Brasil: BASF S.A. Estrada Samuel Aizemberg 1707 09851-550 So Bernardo do Campo - SP Tel. (11) 7 51-22 33 Telefax (11) 7 51-69 89 USA: BASF Corporation 3000 Continental Drive-North Mount Olive New Jersey 07828-1234 Tel. (9 73) 4 26-26 00 Telefax (9 73) 4 26-25 10 Germany: BASF Aktiengesellschaft 67056 Ludwigshafen Tel. (06 21) 60-0 Telefax (06 21) 60-4 84 44

BASF Aktiengesellschaft Marketing Polymere/Kosmetik 67056 Ludwigshafen

MER 9830e - 08.98