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Young. Fresh. Spirited.
Rosé
Explore the
flavors of this
attractive wine
page 38
125
Buying Guide Contents
Spectator Selections
publisher and editor
Vinitaly Hospice du Rhône JoshuA GreeNe
Managing editor
126 About the Buying Guide
Vinitaly, Italy’s annual exhibition in Producers and enthusiasts will tara q. thoMas
Verona, boats some 4,200 exhibitors gather in Paso Robles for a weekend
this year. There will also be quided
art director 128 New Wines From Around the World
of tasting, bowling and auctions. eleNA BessArABoVA
tastings and seminars. Highlights will include a seminar
featuring Le Vieux Donjon.
senior editor
WolfGANd WeBer
149 Shopping List
associate editors
Nicole drummer 158 Tasting Report: 2004 Red Burgandy
May 11-15/CO May 27-29/LA pillippe NeWliN
a Colorado lamb cook-off, just one The New Orleans Wine & Food graphic designers
of many chances to taste wines from experience features wine tastings dAVid l. meriN
steVe WilliAms
US and international wineries in a and live jazz at antique storers and
stunning mountain town. art galleries throughout the city. special correspondent
dAVid dArliNGtoN 108 Americ’s great value winery
contributing editors
CALENDAR
ANthoNy GiGlio
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May 19-21/KS The Biltmore Hotel, Coral W. chArles squires
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POUR Contents
Wine lovers who enjoy full bodied reds have a hard time taking
May 31, 2007
Vol. 32, No. 3
“Buenos Aires delivers
a mélange of Europe and
South America. Its energy
pink seriously. But rosé is moving up fast, powered by rising
quality and an inherent food-friendliness. -cover story is infectious and its people
friendly, making it an ideal
destination. Its not Paris or
Madrid, and you won’t mind.”
page 102
Rosé is the underdog of the wine world. Wine lovers who enjoy sitting down
with a full-bodied glass of red have a hard time taking something pink seriously.
But rosé is moving up fast, powered by rising quality and an inherent food-
friendliness. With the warm days of summer just around the corner, there’s no
time like the present to enjoy rosé’s fresh, fruity pleasures.
R O
continue to grow
osé is produced using one of two methods. nce you decide to take the rosé plunge,
The more common is maceration. Red you’ll have an infinite number of shades
grapes are crushed, and the juice is allowed and styles from which to choose. Part of
to sit in contact with the skins, as in red- the reason for this is because almost every
wine production. After several hours or even days, wine region makes some rosé, using local red grapes.
but before fermentation, the winemaker drains In Italy, rosé is known as rosato, and is often
some or all of the juice from the skins, transfers it made from sangiovese. In Spain, it is rosado, made in
to a new tank and ferments it sans skins. The juice Rioja and Navarra from Garnacha or Tempranllo. The
has enough time to pick up some of the pigments, Germans call the wine Weissherhst and make it from a
phenols and tannins from the skins, but not to the variety of grapes, including Pinot Noir and Lemberger.
extent of a red wine. In the past, most rosés were Southern France remains the bastion of rosé,
simply by products of red-wine production. Wine- with numerous regional styles. Provence blends
makers would “bleed off,” or drain, only some of the Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and occasionally Mourvèdre.
juuice from the skins after maceration. This method, The Languedoc and Southern Rhône employ similar
known as saignée, created grapes. Farther north, Loire
two bathces of juice. Valley producers use Cabernet
The drained juice could Franc in Chinon and Pinot Noir Champagne tavel
be fermented as rosé, in Sancerre. Jean-Paul Brun, a
while the juice left on the top Beaujolais producer, makes For Five straight years in the early rosé runs in vigneron christophe
‘90s, the owners of Nicolas Feuillatte urged chief Delorme’s blood. When he and his father established
skins would proce a more a small amount of sparkling
winemaker Jean-Pierre Vincent to make a vintage rosé. Domaine de la Mordorér in 1986, their first parcel was
concentrated red wine. rosé from Gamay that he calls But Vincent demurred; his experiment with such a cuvée
However, as demand for FRV100, which sounds like a 12-acre Tavel vine yard Christophe’s mother had
in 1989 had not been encouraging and although the
rosé increased, winemakers “effervescent” in French. inherited in 1970. Her family has been making wine in
house already made a non-vintage rosé Champagne he
began to make the wine The New World also envisioned could be achieved. But in 1996, Vincent’s Tavel-a small town in the Rhône, just across the border
from grapes specifically for produces its share of rosés. director insisted that he make one. from Châteauneuf, and the only French appellation
that purpose. Argentina and Australia have The decree from on high turned out to be a very where all the wines are rosé-for almost 500 years
Timing can be very gained recognition for theirs good thing Feuillatte’s Brut Rosé Champpagne Cuvée Today, Delorme is best known for his wonderful
tricky. How long the juice in recent years, and some Palmes d’Or has received critical and popular success- Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but he still works out of a win-
sits on the skins determines producers in Long Island, N.Y., the vintage received 93 ppoints and the most recent ery in Tavel. And he still produces three different rosés:
vintage, the 2000, scored 92. Production has increased a Tavel, a Lirac and a vin de pays. “Tavel has been
how dark the rosé will make fruity versions with Merlot.
from the initial 670 cases to 2,500 cases. well-known in Europe for centuries,”he says proudly.”
be. How much red-wine But California, the birthplace of Vincent’s non-vintage brut is made in the
character it will show. The timing depends on the white Zinfandel, seems to have a love-hate relationship “It was drunk by czars and popes.” The secret to its
traditional method blending 60 ppercent still chardonnay appeal, he adds, is that it’s bigger and richer than its
grapes used for example, Pinot Noir skins, which are with the wine. Some of the state’s wineries make rosés with 40 percent still Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
thin and light in pigment and tannins, will need more usually from Rhône grape varieties, which tend to be counterparts from Provence, and he believes it can
The red-wine components are made via carbonic
time with the juice than will Mourvèdre. Too much bigger, riper, fruitier and sometimes sweeter than their easily age for three years or more.
maceration, as in Beaujolais, creating a very fruity, light
extraction produces wine with neither the freshness European brethren but only in small amounts. A few have Champagne. “it’s perfect for every day,” says Vincent, Tavel’s appellation rules allow nine different
“with light fruit and no tannins.” grapes to be used. Delorme opts for six, primarily
of rosé nor the weight of a red wine. Because this earned a reputation for it, but the rest just sell bottles
With the Palmes d’Or, on the other hand, he Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvédre. He lets the
variation in grapes and extraction, rosés differ quite out of their tasting rooms. Many have tried marketing
set out to make a true sparkling Pinot Noir, gaining a juice sit with the skins, then bleeds it off and ferments
a bit in color and flavor. They range from near-white- rosé and then discontinued it. Joseph Phelps made
deeper, richer flavor by allowing the juice to sit with the it, producing about 4,200 cases a year. Exports to
onion skin, cantaloupe or salmon-to bright pink or 3,000 cases a year of Grenache rosé, which earned
skins before fermentation. Vincent sources most of the United States have been increasing by about 25
crimson, similar to strawberry or watermelon. critical raves, but the winery ceased production after the grapes from Les Ricceys, a village at the southern percent every year. Delorme believes Americans are
The second method of making rosé, used the 1998 vintage. “it was great,” says head winemaker border of Champagne, closer to Beaune and Burgundy discovering how food-friendly the wine is, especially
almost exclusively in Champagne, is to make Craig Williams, “but it was more than the market could that to the Champagne houses in Reims. The result is with spicy or Asian cuisine. “Tavel’s Perfumes and tex-
seperate red and white wines, then blend a bit bear. We were ahead of our time.” Williams often drinks a full-flavored wine, with a rich texture and nuanced ture match with tuna sushi perfectly,”he says. Not bad
of the red into the white. Voilà-pink. With proper rosé, but sticks to French labels. dried berry flavors-almost a sparkling Volnay. Is Vincent for an old family vineyard.
care blending can produce an outstanding rosé happpy with the results? “I dreamed it; I made it,”
Champagne, as Krug has proved with its elegant
43 POUR • M ay 3 1 , 2 0 0 7 P O U R • M ay 3 1 , 2 0 0 7 44
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Education
May 4, 2007 Bachelor of Fine Arts
Concentration in Graphic Design
Minor in Photography
University of North Florida Jacksonville, Fl
Employment
July 2007-Present Graphic Designer
Clear Channel Communications/Outdoor Division
Boston, MA
Lead graphic designer responsible for the layout and design of billboards in the New
England area. Works closely with account executives to achieve design solutions for the
clients’ varying needs. Creates Power Point presentations and designs marketing materials
for existing and new clients. Pro actively creates eye catching speculative work to expand
new client base for the firm.
Exhibitions
February 2007 University of North Florida Senior Show
April 2006 University of North Florida Student Annual
December 2005 Through the Lens Photography Show
Software
Adobe Indesign, Photoshop, Illustrator,
Macromedia Dreamweaver, Microsoft Office
Memberships
April 2005-May 2007 UNF Osprey Design Club
October 2005-Present AIGA