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POUR
Young. Fresh. Spirited.

Rosé
Explore the
flavors of this
attractive wine
page 38

Pour Magazine 25 best wines


5½” x 8¼” for the summer
U.S. $4.50 Canada $5.50
High end wine magazine that page 72

is targeted to 21-30 year old


working professionals. America’s great
value winery
page 108 www.pourmagazine.com
POUR
April 29-May 2/Italy May 23-25/CA
Happenings
April 2007 Vol. 26, No. 2
The Buying Guide
123

125
Buying Guide Contents

Spectator Selections
publisher and editor
Vinitaly Hospice du Rhône JoshuA GreeNe

Managing editor
126 About the Buying Guide
Vinitaly, Italy’s annual exhibition in Producers and enthusiasts will tara q. thoMas
Verona, boats some 4,200 exhibitors gather in Paso Robles for a weekend
this year. There will also be quided
art director 128 New Wines From Around the World
of tasting, bowling and auctions. eleNA BessArABoVA
tastings and seminars. Highlights will include a seminar
featuring Le Vieux Donjon.
senior editor
WolfGANd WeBer
149 Shopping List
associate editors
Nicole drummer 158 Tasting Report: 2004 Red Burgandy
May 11-15/CO May 27-29/LA pillippe NeWliN

Taste of Vail New Orleans critics-at-large


pAtrick J. comiskey 162 Special Report: 1996 Piedmont
Wine & Food Experience peter liem
This year’s Taste of Vail kicks off with pAtrico tApiA

a Colorado lamb cook-off, just one The New Orleans Wine & Food graphic designers

of many chances to taste wines from experience features wine tastings dAVid l. meriN
steVe WilliAms
US and international wineries in a and live jazz at antique storers and
stunning mountain town. art galleries throughout the city. special correspondent
dAVid dArliNGtoN 108 Americ’s great value winery
contributing editors

CALENDAR
ANthoNy GiGlio
dAVid WoNdrick

POUR
copy editors
WilliAm hiroshi looB

online
christiNe leddy

May 13/IL May 28/TN contributing writers


mAx AlleN
Malt Advocate WhiskyFest L’Ete du Vin Premiere phillipp Blom
Hyatt Regency, Chicago Auction heAther irWiN
Nashiville Benefit: American contributing artist
May 19/TX Cancer Society BArtomueu AmeNGuAl Exclusive information for subscribers to
Malt Whisky Society NicholAs BAsiloN

Extravaganza June4-6/FL
mArViN colliNs
cork & wine online:
The Fairmont Hotel, Dallas International Food & Wine
circulation & Marketing
Festival circulation director 2006 Calivornia Cabernet Senior editor James Laube
May 19-21/KS The Biltmore Hotel, Coral W. chArles squires
Midwest Winefest
previews the upcoming vintage, with a list of top-scoring
Gables
Wichita
website coordinator
JANel smAlls
wines from barrel.
Marketing coordinator
liNdsAy Wheelock 2006 bordeaux Before you buy futures, read senior editor
Contact us distribution James Suckling’s analysis and tasting notes from his barrel
comAG mArketiNG Group
tastings of the latest vintage. Also, guest blogger Jean-
Pour magazine editorial send comments and questions via e-mail (corkandwine@ Guillaume Prats of Château Cos-d’Estournel shares his
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POUR Contents
Wine lovers who enjoy full bodied reds have a hard time taking
May 31, 2007
Vol. 32, No. 3
“Buenos Aires delivers
a mélange of Europe and
South America. Its energy
pink seriously. But rosé is moving up fast, powered by rising
quality and an inherent food-friendliness. -cover story is infectious and its people
friendly, making it an ideal
destination. Its not Paris or
Madrid, and you won’t mind.”
page 102

102 travel to Buenos Aires

38 rosé from around the world

108 Great American winerys 72 Best wines for summer

Cover Story Features


GIFts
19 tates Avocados; an insider’s guidebook to
63 Congratulations, Graduate Give gifts that will start
38 rosé renaissance Rosé’s quality is on the rise, 72 Best Wines for the Summer As the first spell Paris restaurants; organic chocolate
a budding enophile down the path to becoming a
and whether sparkling or still, this fresh, fruity wine of really hot, humid weather strikes the region,
full-fledged wine lover
is the perfect summertime drink. we present an thoughts turn to summer wines 27 the Savvy Shopper Red Burgundy and a host
in-depth look at pink wines of values
82 top Producers A preview of the vintage trAveL
reveals high quality whites and possibly the best 102 Bienvenidos a Buenos Aires Delicious beef 35 Letters
44 rosés by region Profiles of six producers
Pinot Noirs in a generation frome the PPampas and hearty Malbecs from
located in different corners of the world
Mendoza help fuel the Argentine capital’s distinctive 117 Collecting The South Beach Wine & Food
108 Wine Matters America’s great Value Winery culture and cuisine Festival pairs tasting and fun
50 recommended Sparkling and Still rosés

52 A Menu to Match Food-friendly and fun.


Rosé makes a great partner for many dishes
Departments
9 this Issue

14 Upfront Alcohol may deter arthritis


Rosé
bubbly and still versions of this wine are
gaining respect and new fans

Rosé is the underdog of the wine world. Wine lovers who enjoy sitting down
with a full-bodied glass of red have a hard time taking something pink seriously.
But rosé is moving up fast, powered by rising quality and an inherent food-
friendliness. With the warm days of summer just around the corner, there’s no
time like the present to enjoy rosé’s fresh, fruity pleasures.

serious rosé 41 six profiles 44 top wines 50


38 POUR • M ay 31,2007
the best examples of rosé, whether
P
erhaps the boom in imported rosé sales was
only a matter of time. Rosé has a long tradition
as a casual everyday sipper in Europe, where
still or sparkling, combine attributes almost every winemaking nation produces
some. In fact, many red wines, including famed red
of both red and white wines. Burgundies such as Volnay, actually started out ppink,
as winemakers had less control over fermentation and
didn’t want to extract too much color or tannin. But even
as winemakers gained control over the fermentation
process and red wines became darker, many wineries
kept producing rosés. On any sunny summer afternoon
in Provence, you canfind old men taking shade under
the ppine trees and drinking tumblers of rosé. It’s fitting
to have such a refreshing drink in so warm a climate,
especially since the local Provencal varieties are largely
medium to full bodied red grapes, such as Grenache,
Mourvèdre and Cinsault, whose red wine versions are
hardly cool quaffs.
Rosé’s more mixed reputation with American
wine lovers, meaninwhile, is likely because in this
country, pink has long signified sweetness. In the early
1960s, California giant Gallo introduced sweetned
“pink Chablis alongside its “Hearty Burgundy.” Around
the same time, sweetned pink sparklers from Portugal,
such as Mateus and Lancers, became best sellers. (By
the late ‘80s, Mateus alone accounted for 40 percent
of Portugal’s table wine exports.)
But those sales paled in comparison to white
Zinfandel’s. Interestingly, the first white Zin was the
product of an enological mishap. For years, Sutter Home
had drained off some of the juice from its Zinfandel
before fermentation (in order to give more concentration
While rosé is now produced around the world, Provence, in southern to the juice left on the skins), and made the drained for red wine destined for rosé production, according to
France, remains the region that most people associate with the wine Jean-Pierre Vincent, winemaker at Nicolas Feuillatte.
juice into a dry, pale rosé. But in 1975, the fermentation
got stuck-the yeast died off before consuming all the Selling rosé in this country still requires
Rosés can show lovely cherry, melon and berry sugar. Tasting the pink, sweet wine a few weeks later, overcoming consumer’ prejudices, however. One
Cork & Olive reviewed 94 rosés: 65 still wines, eight of
flavors, backed by a hint of depth and tannins as which scored very good (85 to 89 points on our 100 the winemaker decided to commercially bottle it. The American who has been instrumental in leading the
well as refreshing acidity. With the exception of rosé point scale), and 29 sparkling wines, seven of which first of the “blush” wines, it was an instant hit and was charge is Charles Bieler, who started selling his family’s
Champagnes, which can offer monumental quality rated outsdanding (90 to 94 points). Last year, our soon followed by white Merlot and white Grenache. rosé in the United States in the late ‘90s. Bieler’s father,
and prices to match, these are not wines that demand editors reviewed more than 200 rosés: 135 still )64 very Blush sales in the United States grew rapidly, a swiss-American who owned Château Routas in
deep contemplation. Rather, they are best enjoyed good, one outstanding) and 88 sparkling wines (36 peaking at 43 million cases in 1990, according to Impact Provence, had asked his son to help him market the
as a lively quaff at the end of a long day. “Save your outstanding). Databank. While blush was effective in introducing wine wines in America. The Bielers were trying to make high
Cabernet Sauvignons for a cold winter night,” says Last summer, rosé appreciation in the United quality dry rosés, but were having trouble breaking
to novice drinkers in America, it killed the demand for
Alpana Singh, wine director of Lettuce Entertain You, States reached a critical mass. Restaurants began through the stigma attached to pink wine.
the Chicago restaurant group that includes Cork & putting pages of rosé specials on their wine lists. Young dry rosé. Pink had become associated with sweetnes,
and as the United States moved toward less sugary Bieler decided to embrace the color head on,
Olive’s Grand Award-winning Tru. “On a summer day, partygoers in Long Island’s Hamptons were sipping
when it’s 90 degrees out, I’m drinking rosé.” wines, blush and rosé sales began to decline, shrinking buying a 1965 pink Cadillac and driving across the
Provencal rosés such as Domaines Ott and calling it
American wine drinkers have shown an increasing “D.O.” “For some reason, rosé sales popped last year,” to 31 million cases this past year (though white Zinfandel country, often wearing a pink hat or tuxedo, and daring
interest in rosé in the past five years. Sales of imported says Efrain Madrigal, wine director at Sam’s Wine and remains a cash cow for larger California producers, retailers and consumers to drink pink. Persistent and
rosé, which tend to be dry, grew 40 percent in 2004 Spirits in Chicago. Rosé sales at Sam’s stores climbed including Sutter Home and Beringer). creative, he was an effective one-man traveling medicine
than in 2005. While the category is still tiny compared about 25 percent in 2006, Madrigal estimates. The recent demand for dry rosé has spurred show. Sales improved, and Bieler’s father accepted a
with other wines, rosé’s rapid growth is something to Rosé Champagne exports, which made up about importers to look for new producers, and rosé makers generous offer to sell Routas in 2005.
watch. 3 percent of all Champagne exports, have swelled to 7 are increasingly investing in quality. Champagne houses Bieler moved on to become a founding
Quality has been on the rise as well. In 1995, percent in the past few years partner of Three Thieves, a California company that
too are taking their rosés more seriously looking for Pinot
Noir and Pinot Meunier and building winers spedifically sells affordable wines in innovative packaging, But he

41 pour • M ay 31,2007 POUR • M ay 31,2007 42


couldn’t resist the call of rosé: He and his family non-vintage brut rosé cuvée. According to Oliver Krug,
recently began negotiating with Provencal growers the house blends wines from four or five different
again and released their first vintage of Bieler Père vintages and 15 different villages. More houses are
et Fils last year. Bieler is wearing pink again. using maceration, however, as rosé Champagne sales

R O
continue to grow
osé is produced using one of two methods. nce you decide to take the rosé plunge,
The more common is maceration. Red you’ll have an infinite number of shades
grapes are crushed, and the juice is allowed and styles from which to choose. Part of
to sit in contact with the skins, as in red- the reason for this is because almost every
wine production. After several hours or even days, wine region makes some rosé, using local red grapes.
but before fermentation, the winemaker drains In Italy, rosé is known as rosato, and is often
some or all of the juice from the skins, transfers it made from sangiovese. In Spain, it is rosado, made in
to a new tank and ferments it sans skins. The juice Rioja and Navarra from Garnacha or Tempranllo. The
has enough time to pick up some of the pigments, Germans call the wine Weissherhst and make it from a
phenols and tannins from the skins, but not to the variety of grapes, including Pinot Noir and Lemberger.
extent of a red wine. In the past, most rosés were Southern France remains the bastion of rosé,
simply by products of red-wine production. Wine- with numerous regional styles. Provence blends
makers would “bleed off,” or drain, only some of the Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and occasionally Mourvèdre.
juuice from the skins after maceration. This method, The Languedoc and Southern Rhône employ similar
known as saignée, created grapes. Farther north, Loire
two bathces of juice. Valley producers use Cabernet
The drained juice could Franc in Chinon and Pinot Noir Champagne tavel
be fermented as rosé, in Sancerre. Jean-Paul Brun, a
while the juice left on the top Beaujolais producer, makes For Five straight years in the early rosé runs in vigneron christophe
‘90s, the owners of Nicolas Feuillatte urged chief Delorme’s blood. When he and his father established
skins would proce a more a small amount of sparkling
winemaker Jean-Pierre Vincent to make a vintage rosé. Domaine de la Mordorér in 1986, their first parcel was
concentrated red wine. rosé from Gamay that he calls But Vincent demurred; his experiment with such a cuvée
However, as demand for FRV100, which sounds like a 12-acre Tavel vine yard Christophe’s mother had
in 1989 had not been encouraging and although the
rosé increased, winemakers “effervescent” in French. inherited in 1970. Her family has been making wine in
house already made a non-vintage rosé Champagne he
began to make the wine The New World also envisioned could be achieved. But in 1996, Vincent’s Tavel-a small town in the Rhône, just across the border
from grapes specifically for produces its share of rosés. director insisted that he make one. from Châteauneuf, and the only French appellation
that purpose. Argentina and Australia have The decree from on high turned out to be a very where all the wines are rosé-for almost 500 years
Timing can be very gained recognition for theirs good thing Feuillatte’s Brut Rosé Champpagne Cuvée Today, Delorme is best known for his wonderful
tricky. How long the juice in recent years, and some Palmes d’Or has received critical and popular success- Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but he still works out of a win-
sits on the skins determines producers in Long Island, N.Y., the vintage received 93 ppoints and the most recent ery in Tavel. And he still produces three different rosés:
vintage, the 2000, scored 92. Production has increased a Tavel, a Lirac and a vin de pays. “Tavel has been
how dark the rosé will make fruity versions with Merlot.
from the initial 670 cases to 2,500 cases. well-known in Europe for centuries,”he says proudly.”
be. How much red-wine But California, the birthplace of Vincent’s non-vintage brut is made in the
character it will show. The timing depends on the white Zinfandel, seems to have a love-hate relationship “It was drunk by czars and popes.” The secret to its
traditional method blending 60 ppercent still chardonnay appeal, he adds, is that it’s bigger and richer than its
grapes used for example, Pinot Noir skins, which are with the wine. Some of the state’s wineries make rosés with 40 percent still Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
thin and light in pigment and tannins, will need more usually from Rhône grape varieties, which tend to be counterparts from Provence, and he believes it can
The red-wine components are made via carbonic
time with the juice than will Mourvèdre. Too much bigger, riper, fruitier and sometimes sweeter than their easily age for three years or more.
maceration, as in Beaujolais, creating a very fruity, light
extraction produces wine with neither the freshness European brethren but only in small amounts. A few have Champagne. “it’s perfect for every day,” says Vincent, Tavel’s appellation rules allow nine different
“with light fruit and no tannins.” grapes to be used. Delorme opts for six, primarily
of rosé nor the weight of a red wine. Because this earned a reputation for it, but the rest just sell bottles
With the Palmes d’Or, on the other hand, he Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvédre. He lets the
variation in grapes and extraction, rosés differ quite out of their tasting rooms. Many have tried marketing
set out to make a true sparkling Pinot Noir, gaining a juice sit with the skins, then bleeds it off and ferments
a bit in color and flavor. They range from near-white- rosé and then discontinued it. Joseph Phelps made
deeper, richer flavor by allowing the juice to sit with the it, producing about 4,200 cases a year. Exports to
onion skin, cantaloupe or salmon-to bright pink or 3,000 cases a year of Grenache rosé, which earned
skins before fermentation. Vincent sources most of the United States have been increasing by about 25
crimson, similar to strawberry or watermelon. critical raves, but the winery ceased production after the grapes from Les Ricceys, a village at the southern percent every year. Delorme believes Americans are
The second method of making rosé, used the 1998 vintage. “it was great,” says head winemaker border of Champagne, closer to Beaune and Burgundy discovering how food-friendly the wine is, especially
almost exclusively in Champagne, is to make Craig Williams, “but it was more than the market could that to the Champagne houses in Reims. The result is with spicy or Asian cuisine. “Tavel’s Perfumes and tex-
seperate red and white wines, then blend a bit bear. We were ahead of our time.” Williams often drinks a full-flavored wine, with a rich texture and nuanced ture match with tuna sushi perfectly,”he says. Not bad
of the red into the white. Voilà-pink. With proper rosé, but sticks to French labels. dried berry flavors-almost a sparkling Volnay. Is Vincent for an old family vineyard.
care blending can produce an outstanding rosé happpy with the results? “I dreamed it; I made it,”
Champagne, as Krug has proved with its elegant

43 POUR • M ay 3 1 , 2 0 0 7 P O U R • M ay 3 1 , 2 0 0 7 44
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CLEAR CHANNEL
Melissa Slater
Graphic Design

71 Montvale Ave #4
Stoneham, MA 02180
813.731.2095

Education
May 4, 2007 Bachelor of Fine Arts
Concentration in Graphic Design
Minor in Photography
University of North Florida Jacksonville, Fl

Employment
July 2007-Present Graphic Designer
Clear Channel Communications/Outdoor Division
Boston, MA
Lead graphic designer responsible for the layout and design of billboards in the New
England area. Works closely with account executives to achieve design solutions for the
clients’ varying needs. Creates Power Point presentations and designs marketing materials
for existing and new clients. Pro actively creates eye catching speculative work to expand
new client base for the firm.

January 2007-May 2007 Graphic Design/Marketing Intern


Clear Channel Communications/Outdoor Division
Jacksonville, Fl
Responsible for layout and design of billboards in the Jacksonville
region and assist in marketing materials and presentations for clients.

May 2006-August 2006 Graphic Designer


Jewish Press of Tampa & Pinellas County
Largo, Fl
Responsible for the layout of articles and advertisements
of the Jewish Press of Tampa and Pinnellas County

Exhibitions
February 2007 University of North Florida Senior Show
April 2006 University of North Florida Student Annual
December 2005 Through the Lens Photography Show

Software
Adobe Indesign, Photoshop, Illustrator,
Macromedia Dreamweaver, Microsoft Office

Memberships
April 2005-May 2007 UNF Osprey Design Club
October 2005-Present AIGA

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