Gombination of Weaves for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems of Warp and One System of Filling. ‘Weaves for this division of fabries are obtained by the combination of two (or more) founda- tion or derivative weaves. They are designed for three purposes, 1st. For using two systems of warp and one system of filling in producing double-faced fabrics, such as ribbons, ete, et. 2d. For using an extra warp as backing for heavy-weight worsted and woolen fabrics. 3d. For figuring with an extra warp upon the face of a fabric otherwise interlaced with its own filing and warp. ‘Two Systems of Warp and One System of Filling for Producing Double-faced Fabri ‘These weaves are largely used in the manufacture of ribbons and similar fabrics used for trimmings, in which one side of the fabric has to be of a totally different color from the other. Such fabrics (mostly of silk) require a great many ends in the warp, as only one-half or two- thirds will form one side of the fabric; the remaining half or one-third forming the other. In addition to the difference in color for each side we can also change the quality of the stock, or the nature of the stock itself; hence we may use a finer quality of stock for one side (the face), and a lower quality of stock for the other (the back); and again we may use silk for one side {the face) and cotton for the other (the back). selecting weaves for these fabrics, we generally use the combination of a regular satin weave, warp for face, with its corresponding satin-weave, filing for face. Technically we classify the warp which shows on the upper side of the fabric as the “ face-warp,” and its mate, or the ‘warp forming the lower side of the fabric, as the“ back-warp.” As mentioned at the beginning, only one system of filling is used for interlacing both systems of warps. In combining both warps into one fabric in this way, it is necessary to observe the following Rule: The raising of the backing warp over the filing must always be done at a place in which two face-threads raise next to it (one on each side of the backing warp as raised). Diagram Fig. 581 is designed to illustrate this method. Three warp-threads and four picks are represented. Warp-threads 1 and 3 illustrate the face warp; warp-thread 2 represents |= || Jn examining the latter warpethread, we find its point of intelacing |Z) 2/3 with the filling situated in pick 2. Elg|# Face warp-threads 1 and 3 are also raised on pick 2, as required by the || Je rule (given before) for combining both systems of warps. A careful exami- || * |" nation of the diagram will show a second point possible for perfectly inter- | ah pick secting the back warp-thread (number 2) into the filling at pick number 3. [[[w| sd pick Picks 1 or 4, if used, would produce imperfectly stitched places, as in the [x] e]al 2d pick. first-mentioned spot face warp-thread 3 is down, and in the latter-mentioned [fr Tt pick spot face warp-thread 1 is down. To give an illustration of these weaves Fic. $81. Figs, 582, 583 and 84 have been designed. Weave Fig. 582, repeat: 8 warp-threads and 4 picks, has for its foundation the combination of the 4-harness broken-twill, warp up for face (@), and the 4-hamess broken-twill filling up for back (2). The arrangement of the warp for face and back in this weave and weaves Figs. 583 ‘and 584, is one end face to alternate with one end back. ai)5 Weave Fig, 583, repeat: 10 warp-threads and 5 picks, has for its foundation the combi- ration of the s-hamess satin, warp up, for face (a), and the s-harness satin, filing up, for me: = HEE 3. 58 Fro. $83. Fi. $8 Weave Fig. 584, repeat: 16 warp-threads and 8 picks, has for its foundation the combi- sation of the Shamness satin, warp up for face (a), and the Sehamness satin, filling up for back In the same manner as these three examples of weaves are arranged for explaining the present system other combinations of satins or twills can be designed Using an Extra Warp for Backing for Heavy-weight Worsted and Woolen Fabrics. These weaves are used to obtain a thickness of the fabric by using a lower stock for the back, as, for example, a wool back for worsted goods, ‘They may be designed with one of the following arrangements for the warp: 1 end face. 2 ends face, 1 end face, 1 end back. 1 end back. rend back. - 2 ends face, 2ends repeat, or 3 ends repeat, ort end back. 5 ends repeat, or any other similar arrangement. In stitching the back warp to the face fabric it is necessary to observe the following points: rst. The backing-warp has to be raised over the filling in every instance, between two face~ ends, so that the face-threads will afterwards cover the backing ends. Should we have to deal with any face-weave in which only one end-warp raises at the time (satins filling up) we must raise the backing-warp near this one end-face, either to the right or left hand, ad, We must select for the backing a weave as regular as possible, such as satin-weaves, broken-twills, etc, so that every warp-end gets the same amount of binding and therefore of tension. gd. If there are more intersections of the face-warp with the filling (in a certain number of picks) than intersections with the back-warp (in the same number of picks as before) we must work tach warp from a separate beam. The face-warp, if intersecting oftener than the back-warp (on the same number of picks) requires more material ("takes up more”) than the less intersecting back-warp. ‘Two warp-beams must also be used if the material for the face and back-warp is of a different nature, such as wool and cotton oF worsted and wool spun yarn, etc, The number of intersec- tins of face and back-warp in such a case can be equal. 4th, If using the arrangement “one end face-warp to alternate with one end back-warp,” ever use a heavier size of warp-yarn for the back-warp than you use for the face-yarn. Such a selection will prevent the back-warp from showing upon the face. If using “two ends face to alternate with one end back,” a proportionally heavier yan can be used for the back-warp. Great care must be exercised in selecting the stock for the face-warp and back-warp for fabrics requiring “fulling” during the finishing process. The material in the back-116 a cheaper quality, must have, as nearly as possible, the same tendency for fulling as the “stock” which is used in the face-warp. In selecting the weave for the back-warp, we should be guided by the required appearance of the face in the fabric, For example, a twill-weave can be used forthe interlacing of the back-warp ithe face-weave is a prominent twill, Ifthe face-warp is interlaced into a twill of short repeat, as 4, srharness twill, 4chamness twill, ete, etc.; oF if the face-warp interlaces on a plain- ‘weave, rib-weave, basket-weave, granite-weave, etc, etc, thus showing small broken-up effects upon the face of the fabric, a satin-weave must be used for the interlacing of the back-warp. In woolen fabrics requiring fulling, the back-warp, by reason ofits lesser amount of intersection as compared with the face-warp, is apt to show by impressions the points of intersecting of the back-warp on the pene ERESE BREE HEHE Fro. 585. Fie, 586, Fic, 38). Fic, 388 face cloth. For this reason a twill-weave, which is used for interlacing the back-warp, might possi bly show its lines of impressions running over the face of the fabric, whereas if satin is used in the present example for interlacing the back-warp, the impressions, if visible on the face of the fabric, will be well distributed and harmonize in every respect with the weave used for the interlacing of the face-warp. Weave Fig. 585 illustrates what might be called an imperfect combination. The *—, g-har- ness twill forms the face upon every alternate warp-thread; the !—, 8-harness twill, the weave for the back-warp. It will readily be seen that the repeat of the 1—, S-harness twill, taken in equal proportions with the *—, twill, will require two repeats of the latter. The erlacing of the back-warp into the 'face-twill will thus only occur with every other face-twill, and proportionally make every other face-twill appear more prominently. ‘Weave Fig. 586 illustrates a perfect selection of weaves, the 2 4-harness twill forming the face upon every alternate warp-thread with the 8-harness satin-weave (filing for face) as the weave for the back-warp. A careful examination of this weave will show the method of perfectly com- bining the back-warp with the face fabric by stitching the former alternately (exchanging) into cach twill line of the two repeats of the g-harness twill, forming one repeat Repeat of weaves Figs. 585 and 586 is 16 warp-threads and 8 picks. wit] Se EE aa Fis. 589. Fic, 590. Fic. so Fic. 592 Fic. 593 Weave Fig. 587 illustrates by taking # and © for raisers, » and o for sinkers, an imperfect selection of weaves, as demonstrated and explained by example Fig. 585. ‘By exchanging the 8-harness 1 twill (back-weave) in Fig. 587, to the 4-harness twill 3 (@, @ and @ for raisers, © for sinkers), we produce a perfect combination; the back-warp interlacing with the face fabric regularly in every face twill-line; thus, if producing any impressions, such will be uniformly visible Repeat, if using the 8-harness —, twill of weave for back warp: 16 warp-threads and 8 picks ; if using the 4-harness *—, twill for weave of back-warp : 8 warp-threads and 8 picks. Weave Fig, 588 shows a perfect combination of weaves, the *—, 4-harmess twill for face= warp and the 1, S-harnese satin for back-warp. Repeat: 16 warp-threads and 8 picks.