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Contents

RCIP CONT(NTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

.,

rORtWORD FROM THE FIRST EDITION

PREFACE fRO>ol THE FIRST [OIliON

Dairy

.\I".hroomsilnrl
Nu'~ and s..,ds

Creek Cooking

CMAPlER

..
..

EQUIPMENT
Cn.)~,,~~

I\It,h~n T""I. "nd ul~n.il.

"

..

"
"

Spint s
Wine

o.her !nl!T.. di~n!>

(:II,o,P1[1I

STOCKS, GLACES,

ANO ESSENCES
StOlk

"

"

Trum~~

I'ork Produc!>
Spi.-et

'-\''''i''m Roman Cooking


C.."ki"l in ,he ;\\;.J,JI.. :\get

R.. ""iuan<-. Cooking


rhe S",,=n,h Century
The S<-'-.mumh c..mUl),
11,. Eighlccmh Cent"')
rh .. ~in~I~~nlh Cemu')'
Th T,. cntiNh Century

Prvd"CI~

11crb~

A SHORT HISTORY
or SAUCE MAKING
:\n~jem

INGREDIENTS

,\-ian Sau~es. Cond;m~nl"


lind Oth~r lngr..di~,u~
C<>nJimenl'i

"RUACE fO THE THIRD EDITION

CHAPTER

CHAI>TER

."

GI""u

,)",

!':""ncl!S

,\'.."hin,.

s.......ing U n.iL.

"
. 11

("APTtfl

D",in,i,'" Ur"wn s..u, ...

Wi,h"", \\"m<"..,r Vinesar

LIAISONS
II..

AN OVERVIEW

r TI

rip" on Imp,o\';n!!" ,h,


l'lavnc of Brown Sol _

len

G~I~,i,

S'M,'h.
1't\"!.Iy"lh
err,'m

,,'
,"

nurler

<.;iI,I,,s .. nJ F"i.. Gra.


UI",..I
Y"f!un ~n.1 1',..,. h Ct.......
Wine lAes

CH.lPTER

WHITE SAUCES FOR


MEAT AND VEGETABLES
S;'U"I'

l"'I'I"O"";ng
CHAPTER

\\-h,,~ S"u~e

INTEGRAL MEAT SAUCES

8kh.. m~1

Sau," V.. I"ut"

CH.lPTtfl

'"

["r~gral Sauce, for Sauteed .\I~a"


In,egr;tl Sauces for RoaM" Th" Jus
Im"grnl Sauc~~ Dem'cd frum
PO<l~h"d

;\\.. al~

Intcgml 5.,ucts ,\\ad~ from


Brai.I .\leal"
Swam...! .\\eats
Grilled ,\1".. "
lip" for Ihe Rt",aur;tnl Chd

BROWN SAUCES

[)""",GLa,', and Cn ... j;.


.\\,wl.. m ,\I ..,hocls for
,\\.ok'ng Brown Sauce.
;-';aming Brown S" ... "~s

10

Int~l!ral V.. nous SlOck_

Cti.lPrER

B..... d Br"''''n Sa ... c..s


Wh"t Wint-&-:! (kri, ..,i . c
n"."... S~lTceo
R.d \\'jne--li~ o...;v~ti,'"

I N TEGRAL FISH AND

Htown """....
l.>.ri .~", .. Ur...... n

t.kri"~l;'C

B'own s.uu.

SHELLFISH SAUCES

[1.. to, Pn:para,;on. and l"l(red, .. nls


J>.~,,hi,,8
-

s...,,"

\" I~ "" F"ni('jed Wnw.

,ntS"H.,,,,d

'"

'"

...,

STOCK-BASED AND NONINTEGRAL FISH SAUCES


Cla.o.,i~ F,~nch Fish s..u,'~
Combining "1... lhO<l
s...nc... U.ing Sc;>.lIo p Coul
c..'n'~mpo,.,.r:y Fi~h S;>.ncet.
Improvising Fi.h Sau,,~~

Cor;tl
1'1,..",,1
(HAPlEfI

Impcovi.ing B'own s..u<:u


Til" fur.h R..";tur"nl eh.. 1

Flrai.inc
R"",'"ng
s..."te;ng
Sl~.'mi"g

C",,,hining .\I"lhOlI~: 1',,1. S"'WS


C.~,ki", .\l"lIu.k~

'"

..'"

..

.,

(tI~pf["

11

CHAPTUI 1 4

CRUSTACEAN SAUCES
~'I~'

01 (:."

ct.",""

M of. YON N A IS E- B AS E 0
SAUCES

'a~..... n~

S~,,,c'

anJ

Pr~p..ra""n.

P,..,uulion. for
.\Ia,y<mnai..,

rip' 1",' Ih R~"_mr;,n' l'hd

1"1" "n Co<,king

l.ob,,~''

P~I"';1\fI

1~~Pdiring Brok~n M"V{"'n~i""

L.in~ C,.u.,,,,~"n 1"1""0'"

S",nllil ,,\....\'on""' '


Cla ..ic """'yunn"i,o.[~.1 !o;;oucu

with .\Ieat and F .. h


Iml"O' "illg Cru$r:lcean S~'Ke.

COnl~mponlr)' ''''''-"onMi ..

G"mi,u",," for Cru.""-~~M


:\,klitim,al s...uces for C""""'UIlS
wmbi n ill8 C", .. tac~an' ",,h

Varia,ions

.\1>..,on.w ...-&w.! Shdlf,.h S;o.uc.",.


'\""'yonnaise-B.u.ed \1",,, s...uces
Improvising .\\ayonnai_

Ocher Sheillish

(l.15':d Sauces

CHAPH~ 12

Til" for the Restauran' Chd

JEl.LlES AND
CHAUDS-FROIDS

CHAPTER

13

S'Qr.o.g~

s"nm>g

Cluaic 110' l~ Yolk s'''KH


Cc ""'por..r.... \'..n..."on~
hn''''Ovio:'"1!
I~il;.,.d Sol.. ',"

EII'I..

."

'"

16

SALAD SAUCES,
VINAIGRETTES,
SAl.SAS, AND RELISHES

HOT EMUl.SIFIED
EGG YOl.K SAUe ES

Sau"e~

'"

Compound BU\le/"!\
Whipped But!en
CHAPHR

Rel'",iring Bruhn

--

15

&'urre Blane Sauces


Broken Dut1er s..UCq

Chaud, Fruid$

Pr""autinn, for ,\\.;.king Hot


Emul.ilicd Egg Yolk s...un..

",

BUTTER SAUCES

:-;., .. r.I.\\e.' Jetty


Fi.h ,J~lh
~1,,\'oring JeUi""
Worki,,! ",th Jelli~.
Impro"ising J~lIi".

CHAPTEII

Crc~m-Based

n.

n.
m
m
m

--

Cold SaU<'u

Yogun-Bar.ed Colt! Saun-.


Oil . Vinegar., and "ina'l!rettco

..
m

...."

~,

S"loa.
Chutneys and Rel;"hn
Froi! Sauces

CO ... t~T1

I.

_n, s..
......
'"

-.... '.

Sao
r
So,.11

.....
"

\'Iodr<ra

->

~>

"

,~

(>........ s.

TI

'Y

--

..

s--.

t'

jJo.

--

...... -""do *""m.-:s.-

.....

M. Sa...,

--

C_

...... .,..
~

...

s.~

'* m~ .......

[
!io

;0."
ad (1.oboI

s-:.. .oiaviIk

~aUn:h

IUc \\,

Sa
So

..~>

Co......-1eos.
I

SaI_

f.

:>.ai....ad..

t'-

PJ,

II &rIC

! . . . Crr-dtft IShn

'l.-

So ,.. ,\\
So..., Poovr"d.
s.. ,. I'

\I

Sa...... Il&v...

{~J

So ,.. 1:haM tV. r.


Tn '11. fon,.1

C~m

So
..

",,\&Io-l\.oocJ "in&~
L .s...lK<'forF ..
.. JSI~ml>

..

.9

SIo1 .. .:......- "

s. ,

NT[GAAL M[AT SAUCES

Sa.... r"...
...... ,.. It.
:..

p~

1wom,...
:x>m S.uu)

"

,. halle"'"

c
l

Slr.1. _I Cl'Hn
}> J. Cnopt ',I. \\oden
Own-Rc aak<l t,;hi<1l

N ,,,.

STOCK-eASED AND NON


INTEGRAL fiSH SAVeS

.,t.n ..

line
(1 okt.

SaU<'l'

s.... ...

fMAI'fU

V..

It(......,..

s.. ,. G""": \',n..,


,-

5.0 .....

s..

!\at ... M....m. \MUOUI <lind


( ......1
I'..... No ,So..,.
Sour So.:

So
ct..
SalK..

,.~

TOIItI!

s.. ... _
s.... A.u","
(Whd.,\\

.........
a ....

~...

..

.1.

s..ldl. "I' \ ..
l..r
I/at.
J.

w.a !Yo Il
R..... s.,.&

"'.. ro ... ,}

roc
Fe..
Bnf.t.

I~mb

.So

"'",.
h

S.,I,,,.,n~" f'~p;II",~

... "h

.I~h<nn.,J Y~g<',,,hlc.

P,,,,,/ \\';n~ ,\1.,,~I"'n


S.l',iol wi,h R....I Wi, s..u,"
(),,"'I'''' Daub.,

0. ,,~c' ",;,h Chamf"'<!'n" S .. .,""

:;:.,11,,1" f.."ull.;c. ",;,10 Chi.,u


.\1,,_1. ",,h

Gc~,;nkd

s..n"'"n
CHlPT(R

,.

,.

.0

11

Chi~krn Brea.... ,..,,10 Smok...! JrUv


So,.... ] C .... ud_Froid
.

Butler

Cru"acc~n Oil

i3unc ... ",ilh 'Vhol~ Cr"'!ac~ .. n$


CI3..;< Sauc~ Arru!riaine
Cl-.i~ Sauce Cardinal
Cl.... ie S.uc~ Nanl ....
ClInlcmpor"")' Saue<'
linal
and s..u~e Nan,u ..

no

CHAPTER

Saucr Bhrnai""
Saue<' HoUandaise
Sauce Chomn (Sa.uc~ Ilo!ama,,,,,
wuh Tom ..,o)

s.,uc~)

Sauce Malla;1IIt (Or.. nl!~rl~~o",d


Sauce Hollandaise I
SaUl'C Mous..,lin~ (HoU .. n.!";,,, wiu,

s..u~e N~whurg

Orientale

S;au<" :-':o;""ue

SdUCe

CHAUDS-FROIDS
CIa.,~ .'Ie~, Jell\"

ct.... ,ic.;n'''" for ~le", Jell.-

.1

lor Po. G, ~

Buner Sauce) _

Ilo!"mai$~)

Sauc", RUbeM (And,o",' lind


CruOlace.1in Sau,'e for Fi.h)
Bra;~1 FjUcl> of Sea B.o..
",.;,1, s..ba.'"on SaUl'"

CHApn~ 12

Red Wi"" .'Iut Jcil.Pun .. nd Cr.d,~d.I'~rl,..r

(l\"oi.",n~

Sauce foyo' or Yalo;. CSi.u, ..


Bo!.. rna;..e "",h .\Iea, G!~<'d
s.auc~ "(vroli"nne (Oil-Ba..ed

JELLIES AND

Q.ur,R.,,,illon Jelly

.,

Wh'p~d C",.. m.1

Saucc Ila"ariao
SI<<UII..J Lob<'ec wilh Pa .... I~)' Sau~t
l.oQ..'~r ala ;><agr 1/
Chid'~n "'i,h Cra)fi.h
Japane.e_S,:de Crab Sau~e
.\\i~.d Shellfish Fricuute

Cl.... i~ 1';,,10 Jelly

13

HOT EMULS]FIED
EGG YOLK SAUCES

ea ...

S3Ut~

-.

{Parsl.ytd Ham T~rrin<)


Ik...,r :\Iode- (Cold Ura;""d Be.-fJ
S;olm01"l and Tl"Um~ Jlur~

CRUSTACEAN SAUCES

Cra.l'li.h Sauce
s",u<'~ Hamar.! (Lob.,er

.I~",b.,,, P~",illl

HolI.n,hi.e

c",.,,,.-coon

She'"." Dud, _I~II"


1'; ..... Herb.-. Jell.\I..,d .1~lIy
Salle"n and To ..... to F.. h ,1~lIv
SaI."lc Gr""q~~ in Cuu".!.k,~'!~'"
.lolI.v
I'"i. Gr ... ~n Gd~"

CHAPTER

14

MAYONNAISE-BASED

SAUCES
S~ba."on-Slyl" .\\d.l on,,,,;,...

S"U<
s..~<1

\'en" (C .....n .\1.".1""",,,... 1


.'.-i,,1; I(;..,-!;, .'I~.,'onn"'S(l
~~

,~t

--m

Tr~,t'lio"aj :\....Y"n".,i"~

0,.'[1l'5

.,

,...

\\oJn'"

"

'" -, .-

,,~

II

- ....-""
..

\_~.r

\,na'f""r

-"
I"

1-

-' \,

~ panlr~

b
~r

,,~

;\Iu:
\'~pf

lot

~ll..:l

~fn

M... , _ P
:.-.1\\,
\\.hn
__ul,n~r And aI.,...J Soo...

N,

lI"n,. ...
Nul lull ...

Can

...

--------

s,.,,,

s...
s.._

Nut Cum
C .. -hew

C......"I',..
.., h Coc- III .....
I).... s......."e
\\.1
and arnwsar
,....

s.J..
C

1..0:-

_T,. 1.
Kumqt. If Rodi&l
~ And C
hon R..t~
C I...,.
T ,I< and
I...t...: "

,...

I'J.., .. P..'*:; t' ..

C....h_ P_r
I' ad.. 1(; -lie-Almond "",,""

-lor ....

~ .....J.S.,....fn

g"n I',

~.

(~I'

M ,Ct..."

..o

Mn'''..a<-

.o\""ho<ade

Cumhr ..... nd .. r

T.~....t

(;.....
F ...

,; 1(, 17

OIi> .....1 u"er-l


~I'U,-ft

Lentlll'.,n
R.d \\
So.

PUREES ANO PUREE


THICKEN EO SAUCES

R.. T_.oC"O"' ....


Cooked TQIaaI.. :,---.n

_c

T<><IWill" 5.011
So ..1 "+<
IKe ror Fial

..

-----.,
--

-..
~

""

t ,nuM<!

p-

\\"hiI ...... f~Ilc\\&lC:n


At.

"-40
~

e,,,,"';'A 18
",01... Oil
n L l l n ' j ......

(f<tl_ ...... r;

Spaclwlu

.....

'(

'"

.,

PASTA SAUCES

I'&OUI.

", . I M I


........

>iT.,. ........
.~,

,-'"

-'....

"'"
....

"

"alnlll

..- .,'" ....

,\1..-10

s..uklo !.Lob.!' O.

'" ."

d Sh"'..p ....
So

,. ...........

~)

,..,

"'U1"
.ond p....loy
"*'"...

$pop<:':

artie
(;.,..;.til

"rK<-h

G"eo

.Jtr.,

...ryV....fIIe.
(.\0,

..

"~II

rot
f

(o.

"an;

--

.1, ..1:..

1'r-

....."(1 19
ASIAN SAYCES

Il.pp a'!>ao
\ ' " " , , _ SpicY t ... s..~

....

(x_ ... )
n... Ro C"tIJ

, . . .. .a_
M....

I h&l G

". k. Sa"",

..

1r",h

,
. s. ,

U IU I

"lei lid..

IU,

k. ~\

eel

hnpr<

s.la<1

..

1'......

... T .... C -n

In'""

'VI .......11"

...,
~..
.\\award s... "

~.:.nd

l"

.,0<1

:ww t-"" "'LaNM

H.ybu/(, ..... If...... )


:\ lodem (...... 't...W.

'-'1",_.11.... ')
1'4. ..... ,,'

'WK Curry Pnwd.r


Currv '\1..1

....

w
m
m

{; ...... \\....u.

\', ".1

20
DESSERT SAUCES

\,

( .....,.1...
Cho.:01.0 ... Ii mer Sau ~
C.... rnd C ...m s..,,~

C....m ,,' Bull". s...

S.

II lel'WOfd,
I>e.

.... Str.,

Cu..." .'aoli.

Wi' ...... ' Curry I' ..., ...


1'1, C ..,. ~\..Kkl
11ao;,- Sai -hv
Ch' .... M(;' ......and(;.n

(r.

...

......

1\., ...... \, ......

t:

"" II lla. J.
hLd au
d ....., Iii ... io"

.... v. . .1

n.."lI..J, "'I'''~ .'L~I' ~ (P",.,


,1.....- f'"...,] ...

I'. s
"wI'1

" A - ",I. """


luckS. '"
.,.._
'"

~ ~"'-'

_So ..."
I' ",.. s."

8. ""

----

..

c.:h

~""'(:>LIli.o
~.

'

"I")'

C .......

c...(.w,.

Ie-I

"" luJillg ~ug;lr (in <-"n,lnrm), "lmond~'I'iM'" hi"",. r><>tnegt"anatC'a, dtNs fruit ...
an,1 pma.,h_ Spi"e. h;.. l b.. .. n used in \\'..... Iern Eul"Op" "ince Roman hmes, but
Ih,'''- "ari .. ,." was lin,il ..<I. and Ih ...... w~r" .........,.\ only in nobll! and royal circin_
\, Ihe Cru"... lcn ",lurn..J. Ih" U!ll! of 5I'i"".I,..,"me mOre common, they nM
onl.v I'1"O .. i,lI Il,,,or hut probably ma~ked the taste of tainted ml!al.
\'~rjuin (Ih .. un~w"lt ... "ed juic<, of unripe srapts and som"';mel crab apo
pl<'l') and vincg"r are mnot ohen <-alied ror wh"n a liquid ;.. needed. In I.ter
m.ulUsnipls. inlluen.;-... d by ,\liddle Eas'ern c()<lking. orange and lemon juke
were .om.. lim .." u ....d.
\-..!'juice and vinegar are di~lincd'y !>Our ingredi .. nl$. and Ihlt' Saraceni and
We"'ern European. j .. "laposed ,hem with sW"",,lene". Hooey and dried fruits
wt~ u.eel iniliaH., but 'Hre panially npla.;-.. d wilh sugar, which remained quite
r<lfe and w"",, tre.ll ... (lll~ a ~pice. Th .. m..di ..."al ""'lui (a kind ofliquid stew) was
....'mel;m<:"5 ~weelen~(l wilh dates. raisins. or sugar.
The modern I.VBtem of preparing stocks had not ~ appelU"ed. but bed'
bouillon anJ Ihlt' cooking litlu;d~ of both meats and fish ....-ere bound with bread.
almond$. and eu J olk. to COn\t"n tht"m into sauc ... s.
Almost ..." ...ry medi ... val ~ip'-' indudC'a spice9. such as e.affroa. ';npr. nut
meg, cloyes, ,;nnamon . .;-ardamom. ;ond lon, P"'ppe". Rar...ly was the Ravor or
nuance of on ... ~pict' ... mphasiz ... d in .ont,..... t wilh a. di$h_ In,It"M. m...t dishes
contain three or more. 'pi..,,", with $Cernin,ly linle ahenlion to their relationsl.ip.
M... dit"val,ex\1l (Taille"en!'. /", 1'iiuulUr.."d /", Aflnagirr k Pan..) aft filled with
"""ip"" for soup. and racoil19 in which ,h... element Mil\B prepared -li~r. ftIeIIl.
fish-is purkd;ond I.I~ 10 bind .h... liquid.
When bread or almonds were usN to bind ..uces, tMy were pounded together ". the M,;nnins: and moistened with verjuice, vinegar. Wine. almoDd
milk. and sometime...ow's milk. When uaed, eg yoIke: wen bearen and .dded
althe end. jU51 ... they are toclay. In tome recipeS. liver (it ia often not dear1lllbal
kind) D used to thicken Ihe &aU.
Althou,h we do nOi know what the UAct textufft of _ _ _ like ID. me-

dieval cooking 1M e.uin4J habit. of the times _Ld have made It dif6c:uIt if not
Impoutbk to appreaate a deliea&dy balanc.d aaut:e MOld ood. _
.rved_
IIticit .JK:U of~ad (trenc:h.....) m.w.d of plata; and eMe:a with the ........
atead of with forlt . Ir. &IlU<:C! were too wn. would have bee. .t.arW ~ ...

I'

d"C~~'''''~~~~''''''~E~~i5i~

and lltay (1ft top of lhe trIIIftCben.. l...aer. .. p&ac.


hl'Nd
than hltely.
IIaUC:e$ were __
It _ _Mme
_ .-.bJe
10 maIut
~

..... tt...--W '* di.ppear . . the

....... """'"

- - 4 LEEKS WITH ALMOND MILK , C INNAMON , AND ROSES


. ('",ract ed rro m "lmonds
medi~al
Almond n"lk
, u$;ng hot. waler, ,Willi popular;n
I
.
nd Renl".sancr
coo k"Ing "" a SUM1IItlle for dailY proauct,. I can 'IiI! be uoed
.
today "
for ,II avor an d for vegan cooking. The ~aler
_ is
.typical of the Rot.
naissaroce;" lInd "ltar of roses are obtainable al Indian grocenu.
VI[lD: 6 S([ll-DISH S(IIVINGS

whole alroonds

1 ClIp

150

Sliced almonds

1 small handful

1 smalll'landl~1

Qr~ms

hoI waler

2C1lp$

500 millll'I"..

,osewater

1 !""spoon

Smdlilitm

aHarol rOWS

1 drop

1 drop
1 5m~U P'O(I'I

qfCUl>d cinl\olmon

I small pin",

heavy cream

'I> cup

125 millil'ters

suqar

I teaspoon

5 mlllll'ters

6 medIum

6 medIum

to lasle

to !"sle

I""k~ Qrl'!!ns mmOyed. whUes Splil

lel'ltjlllwiR rinsed

salt and

peo~r

J. Preheat the 0\'1''110 350"F (175"C). Separ.nely roaM 'hI.'" whole almond,

and sliced almonds in Ihe oven ror 15 minUle~. Let cool. Sel !lSide- Ihe slicd
almond,. Grind Ihe whole almonds ill a food processor for I minule and
put in II POI wilh Ihe hOI waler. Bring 10 II simmer and leI steep ror 15
minUles. Work ,hrough a fineme~h Mrainer. Reserve Ihe liquid and discard Ihe almonds or grind Ihem lunher wilh a monar a,,,1 p"sde 10 use as
a sauce Ihi~kener.

2. Add the f"OU-WlI.fer, <innamon. neam. and


Ihe "'''-Soninlf'.

sugar 10

Ihe almond milk. :\.1,1.1'"

Spread Ihe leek. in an oval baking d,sh jUM large enough 10 hold Ih~m dnd
pour over 'he almond milk. BakE' u(IIi1lcnder, abo\-u 35 minuI..,. Sprinkle
':Wer Ih .. ,Iin-d almonds and ~el've.

,'\hl"'''1''1I ~ ,'.,',",," of r""~ w~ ;."""I",e,1 du.ing ,he ."v'n'N'n~h cen.,,')'.


",h~.I;~,""m .""~ al ... u... J. p",<!t. ! ~In"'n'[ ,,,><e<I.,,,~e rn"'I'~., ..J "m..... '_....
"h." .d.I,.J ,n ,h,d,,,n ~... ul,~. L.o, 'Mrnn.'. ('"."",,.,.
1,",.<1 - ....al _
.. ,.on., ,",1,,,",,1" .,.lmo"J, (.nml"".'( .. "h IXII"II.,". h,~ .. rl,nom[, .. and "!II

,"'''f'....

v"lk .. ,h. '''',,''''~ II.,,,,,"..,d ",,,h I.n,on ,II"~ ,', ,""""'''', mu,hrn"", .... nd do v",);

;"".,h"",,,,. w"'~ pu,,''''') wi,h "1""",.1,, "n,oM. p"r,;I~.v. h",,d.rumb .. "q


J'ol,,", und <"'I'"r., the rni~,ur~ Ihen worked through" dn,'n "'CV" "nd .... cd un.
,il needed ."" ,hi,hnc"; row, "',Oh """I, ",,,h I"rd, U",orl~ wcr~ ...d<le<l ~h.r
<"OO~,"g ,he J)",,,., dnd ,he ",i.~"'re "'d' ~~;t.'<Jn~'<l ",,,II ~u;llun. m~,"h",on". ",,<I
,,"C!".. r-~ kin,1 orpnmil;"e V"IOUl,' ,h,t! w .. ~ kep' on ho' OUIhu '" be quickly
M,:ns;hl" u .. ,hickener: 'rull1d ",ere p"reed .. long "'''h no u, on"",*, .. no:!
mushnxH'u ~nd u,..,.,J 10 ,hi~k.n ~o(\'~.
S<JI"~ 01 ,h,wce! Iha' ""emuaUy mad.,. Iheir way inl" the d""".c Fl"{!"t'h
",,,,,rroi,,, Ii .... , ~1'1"'ar in ""'en'c"n,h-('en,u,)' co<>kbook~, Scvtn,ecnth.cen,u'),
>11<'" (h>I.'n"~ ha611 di .. incdy mediev"l chura.',,,.: II WIlS mlld~ ",;,h onions Gr

$<;lIl1ion . ,'inegar. Itmon "nJ lim~ Z,-,""" and pepp<'"r, No couli~. ,lock. Or bUlle.
PO"odde ("",.
ISSI i$ mdJ.. wilh conc~nlral(xl stock 11m! no I~mon or orange. L... VlUl:nn,,..
~n "'Uce (.<4,,,,, '''rid. made from ,hard and ';negar. also hus a ,li5lincd~' me.
di~,'..J ,h"rau~r. :\0 oil. bUller. or ,"x'~ w"a u""'" a.nd II. ... "'''ce wu Ihickc~
wilh '''''-5c"d b...,.,d

,,= u~d '0 at!~nu~te the acid;,y of Ihe vines"', :\ modern s,,'R'e

........ CHICKEN WITH CAPERS AND OYSTERS


s"vem.,..n,h.,en,ury C<IOk.. or ... , IC;lSl rhn,. who wrute about conking, l\'e.e e".
cessivei.l' fond 01 Cdp"'" -c..pen. ~ho,," UI' in Ihe mo.~1 unl;~eJ.r places_and had
nOlhing again,. p..inng fowl and ..,,,foo.!. This du.h is piln;,'ul.. rly good ~;Ih
O.)lS'rn from nonh e." dim ..... esp'" ;"n.\ Bc,lon~ .
~",ken. Clu~rlerecr, I

4 pounds

buller

ounc"5

.I,'e'en t>ror~

2 (~"~

totaYv cr,'am

.",

a~<' ..

"a'nc
f ~rl c"~)"pe.o Cl,

\'9$

"': 'lOal)

Ol"ters. '"'''~e4. ""Iter. "'.Ih a kllctlen

2 kiloQram

4:.. )nm~
~["j .r.lllilt~

.' ta"~".-'OI"

'"

: loolelllOGn

'1;",111

10"

,~

, it~'l
I,"~

ID .. ~r 10 ellm,nate q','

'-01" and pe~tle'

"

to ta"e

I.

Coo~ .h~ ,h,~k~n O"~r In~dium


(

14. '-UCES

"rola.lr

h..... 1 In 1"'1"", aho , .r, ",inu'" <Ill 1Io1,h


u
,tie D,...,..-l,J.,'1 1 ddlh h't.
h k I
~ .n " , , t ' , h' t'n hrOlh. Simmer. (V,r ....1. un,,1 ,h..
t<. " " >O\"h~' I.a<~ ,,, .h~ h,u, h, .,I>ou, 10 m;nul"5.

.......

cl..c .... ",d ",.M

I~s

~n

....11.".1 ,I.-n ,h. _


_

...llild....l_ WI....... ,I..........

ttl hq i.J '0 a


I ......un ....

like,
_'"''<Y.'''
r....... ..... .... ttl. and ...,..a.n ..nd h., ,u~ ..
5.._ .. ' ......
.
s,.... he.,........ "P" ....... nd .................. r--- of

-Jw

1 MI .....

_~.......1..

phot.........

....

nd~

ken. See, ...

pL., ....

Till' IIGIITI-:I':-':TII CFN1t.;RY

rlt<. ~..I._".h ..,nIY'.' b"",!h' .. bou. , ......... .y....... i...'i"" of ,he

bu;

a"d bou,U(m . in"OO,,.{'<1 dunn, ,10....." .. ntet-\,h


. ~nlu"'. n ... mad.. " ....'er lor pr..l""""'nal,'ooloo hI worlo .n difTeren' lu,d.....
... <1 p""llKt' ,,,".iol .... ' ~'ul ... On,.... ,},,, "y,Ieta Was maate:reJ. in.l,,,,,1. al
I"'".. n - ,-ouli IU"

...... . -

~ N-:y

'0 ... _mbe...ad in,e""',, ,n'o .. ,,001..', ....1><'".,.,...

.. "'1. .....10 m,a"y

of lhe .... ' e .-.ripa lou",1 in ........ n_n,h-<a<,,,t)' :oak.


lill;', hanptl ............. 01 _ ....al recipeo. by IIw ~h
.,..,wty. I.,.. ,~ ,heM ,,"uce' .... ma.,....j ,n d .. h ...." ... :'0\0.1 were .... pIao:K' by
nnt"", ","'Itaini", ,oul"" bUlle,. and , ... co.u"mpo-..y Ito, .. aueh ....
, h<l\~cs. e.pe ...... rod Wnidw",.
CooIr,booIt. bc-f,~ .10.. e"hternlh ce.IIUt)' ........ wnllen prunarily ror ro.~ .. lty
.".d ,t... .......<><'I'MYl lhey we.. I.1o...!.\' ....rilt ..... ,>1' , ... mas n ol.he hou ... h4ld
a,h ... ,han .h.. ,ook.. wM ..... r.. ,,"u.llv illi." ...... Th ...."hIHn." co:ntury ........
,h .. liN ..",,~hook lor ,he middl .. cia... ,\\.. non '. {AI. ('"", IT'"'-~. ",hi,-" ,.
li'k<I ... 10 "",_,ble anJ d..li,ious ~ 'p".
.'wy MW NueH .... ~..., '''1ro<l,,,~,I'n Ih~ ...,h'nnth .,..."ury, U"til theft.
__ .. _ ... IIM.aloy ..., of """ tyf*- n ... Ii .... Wrn:' made by .lieh,ly modilymf
a bu.c toul .... b ,I ....... elK "I.!Iy h.. ~ut.. It..r.. p"" ,he chuackr I" , ....
..... nu. ... by no _ _ ;Ii:iem. _
..... from rich coulis....,.rill I....
,_ t,..,.,... IA ...... -bu-t 1m. """........ :li.hn<1b differenl !'ron. a . . . . . .
l'Tt>aCh. popular .... t .... nilwteenh .. .d _'lll'1h I:eI tuna. which ~ lIOn
_ ..... on I'" final n.. von.-., ot , ..... u.... ,h.." ,he :0
Mmi,t.ce t-e.
"..., 00Dd ,atqory of .... '-. IlIt.-1l,y hMed 0" ~-,oept,~. M :itrvs 1\1","
n..VOftd '"'," h.... bt. ~JM! II>~""" OP'~ w.. moo-.. med;""al <n ..k..-an"'.... t
oauc.lII&ki", I'"'t!........d dun.., ,h,- e"illnn,h "n.,,f)'. theM two ... ...,. Myko
hep.n 10 mer... <.:oul .. _
atl,I~J '0'" aci.hc Uu<'e baM lfor .."ai' pl~ .....
Rc.I:.e." .,,1 ,,' buner "".... acid....:! '0 ....io.!i.e UI"" baaH I........(, .... n.."" "'tct NU I
Wdh ......... Ii ........ (for '!Wnpl... "'............., I.......... bt..nc .." yo'ks. .all.........
....t
d \UddIeAps ....UA!hic~.n ...... ........,-t(. all_ acn*)
- . , c ..... r n aN ,he fi.... ....
'" ~ Ih .. modern hoftandai..- be,... 1<.... I.
In Iu.ic Y..- ~ >Ok,,,,. 'OUh &A ..,.....0 II
"",ural" h.d.rncd
I'\IIUs t.-... It,). 10 .. "hlftndM-enlt 'V ",., her. _
r... ........- 1i1o.,b
I
1 :h.......,.al
... _'M
an~dlt..vored .. _

boob

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1"-"
plic;1,..d ...
(.1 _,pea.V_toth .. xlen ...~r,F
roO'. ..rI., p nl. ~ul II h
pes w .. .. iI .,'" .,Iil ',on 01

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UI)' coolr.,,,," II.,


~1C"lIy me ;0 J "Ii ""'Iinc
hill WU wid )II II~ for ,h... ..bor"h~ 1'..u"n.",
of
he. Ie inO'lC't'ntl
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t:..:ofl conll.-J , .; p'ily ~o,:e.",.Junl melt :><i. h:
m,n.' :lI ~
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I\U" ...od
....
rf;J><lfnol..
t~ b
.und. and 10 '0 (U .0
"""e .. tel &I o.~ :k,~ hoi ...., :i...,~.nd ")"0 ...... II .. ..,.
... "
nd uyl< ~Ic
:.or. usrd Ii "<'("'pH In I" (iMiJr _ ,",10"'" ,d.nIiu 1M )Ok,", &.
h.. ljlZ hoc"l. II ~
al ~
h")01I 'l<'nl on Itnk c: Jl....-er- t.
Iwto , .... cool ,~f he 1M n,,.1 and .. .r1y twrl'l.i II ~ II"'" .. ...
.:,>n h
IOOd IOtil., \~ tI
It
01"
h:
~.p &J ...,....hl
R, hrn~1 ........!..!....... "con."I~nc
put; I.r :ii,t. ,..!wll
..... ""
",,~ Of" t. Jon. r<>d.) 10 ,ot'c.Ir,1 Ii ~ ,"It! be- ~ "", ....u......1 V h~
I'~.ranc~ t>f n 8' ~ di.hu Jai..,1 .1 Cr, l~nlll""n
m .. "''''~
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I...... '" be.:.au....... brov.n

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h..... ""y ...... hool ...
oho
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Onor"'!..m<MI.,,1 ..., .....ch ...... 01,1 "" .. t~h ~
h'
... nJ Po"'I....... "".. '~ .... _ur.. ID \ " _ ...... ~) ,h .., \''400
.and...rl) 1'l.'>Os. lie . ......... 1 _ '" M ,n :Ia 1 "" ..., now w~ ....
_lo, drwl~......01 ~n"'n<..... II COl ..... of hll .... ion R~p.n.I cui.;.... for
}U." """";,I.~III
J""'''ln "I ....,.". ,,~.......... .. 1...... l!t,~i" .. II)" :Iop,,,,,1 :y
~... ..;..n..J ,h .... (botJ, mrn .nd womr,,) .<n.lp ........... I ... "h I . . . . .rn I I.
~pt""'" ..... had bHn ~.... , ~ fo
.....'" F~
_ , C' Frn ,,,,,,,,I
p
w .. onr oft!. ~I'
v ho ...... 10 I'"
.n.~ .. ,lw.....
otoo.k
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........

h.... "..."""' wh

,..., .."'" 10 .... )"


:M I )or.and 19,

Ilw,"",-

aiel

h.ume"

II....I.

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,or

-..I1_n.'"

9ti.00.(_,al~nou_lIr

nliai, .. ...., .... "'..dy "I'pt- _ r.... 11m.......... puI .n(u..... ). Inil"II)". .nd
, ... drape.IftO" .rnl'o""""', Ih. drvrl"l'mtnl .. I. _
)Uk,,,, pv. <h<,l'~ I''T
rn .... on 10 'Hrhio, un, <'1'1 m...v be d,llieul. lor An ,\men., hrl '0

.....-...."d.

_.u" u"I" .. Furopea. "t.,n...!. an .... ' -.co.n \tol hu. I\(> ","I
n"ft I~""
0 b ..... a ....'y. But in . 'filll
he pre... .. ~ .hn 11ft 0
daic, cool",., Wfi\" q -'"Uonrd. aDd .an.v
_ old di,,," ...re 10,1.

.:0

..

nd .. mpr~"",
oIewIyat... ionrJ.
Oft: .. kr ntcallll .vat,OM II 1%Ot..ul~ 9;0..
ltWero IlIOn pn
found or Ion,_laati", lhan hOR in lhe ..... 01 ...
m.ak . eMf, be,.n to
"lun;"'lt !lour lrom
(uaed i. ~n"
AI ",hea ain~~ It.;. .\li lJlt
,\an) ..nd 10 ,hid.tn.h ..., s will. ,"rum,)u1I and eflI yolk.. s..UCft
-",..-d in ......lItr "I...n t1in an" wtre
ally 1,,11., tnt> red.
S, ..
ef, and .. J~ '1UHfion ..., val.
ellm. ali", lour !"rom ....CH.
p~ ... lour1rM ....cn :..1. ... .kill .. J npenen:to iWI\ II rbe ~ ad
by .... ~1ftDI n "' ('1101,,.., ~.are ~ i~ I
ano ~ 'ed. 'N ,\! .
hOUflo t'II&IIy chef..... ...nlm .mord ,h" 1 _
....'""- Wfi\" 1,,1 e. , .....
ht"llldft-I"
hKk .. nrd, ...... on... hereve .............Ih."" S"mtchtfo., .. ",.
eKo" hl.1" _ 11, r. Ihi,-k"nrol th.. ....uc'"' ... lmIK' nlirriy "i.h cream and
bum- II ."" ~ ....... f.... fro. lithl Of..... , ...
,o.ue jJ()U u . h"k
'"
q Hlio 01'1l 11 II "" ranor>ed a" J-'I hen ,( a _\ochdin h......-.ur
...1.. urVII. a nOU.tllCl.en", Uuc" .nl n
..,..,..." in II "" c.a,..fu ..ad .0
of ... r.... andlbrn".eIHoll
Illf)'.
V_It
.,ruo
)n h"olh.r
.... nd... ""0 .J d .. h , .. eh .... Xl .u v\o or 1.
he m.. ny v..
~ of
c<>unl", ~ ......... belt Ie"'...!
h
wn cooIr., ,,1;'1' .tllit: oJy hio.krnrd
.... Ihllo .. r. p ."f"r.l yadd ..,lal,hth..., ,nl.,.. fun..,. h .. b ....... cof h .. m..""
{ro.. of ,'''' InOil nov......
1.:001 _ 'I~o. u ,\, t..I C1H!'ro ~1. .........

,h"i....

It. t.. r.

~ _

Uftm, ~.
"lin

""nded b f.

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reco

fe

..... H:n;..de oJm061

'"

... 11.....a- ,IW 01.1- Ii..... 10 .. 1"1


YO..,
n.,,,,,red "OmaI
.... 1__
lit ""rOO rd

or ...

..

~I.V("'"

.,

EQUIPMENT

Much oClhe equipment essential tor


sauce making will probably already
be on hand in a well-equipped home
or restaurant kitchen. But read
this section carefully. Some of
the equipment-especially
flne-mesh sieves, drum sieves,

and saucepans \\.'ith sloping


sides - is specialized for
53-UCe

making and may


need to be added
to a collection
of kitchen
equipmen t.

,,1'01""
..,;1 .. 'I..'.C'<I1.... rl",OI"41,.aI .. ,'m~ ....
1re1., "..J" ..oJ.. " ...... p.l.....1 PO'" "".. ~r ~"I~,_l
p.-1.'" ...., ... ..J1y ,M.'I!:.,...... f.". .......... "",, I. ,"f! ..1-" '_K cit..
cop,"" at AI "I '" .., ,.. ,,,"i,,-I ",.).><', It..... ",~. prot.............J-qualitv
"'I'pr' poe:.
I , .........., are l,neo,l "';,h Ionf<'. I..to .... ,d.lI ..... ty ,nen - . ...
*""OC"k<i',.
",-aml .." ............... Th.'areunlv.J~ .. ,I~......., ..pw"'r
r/'&n .he ""....1...... ",,, ....... I ... illlaat '"r many v..... I""'r, .." .-I,.... ,.....Ion,,,.
C""P'" .11,,,,1.1 ai,,, )". polio ..... '
.i",.' " '" " ..I.~d. Ahh""tlh ,ar,,"h
~ "'" .If...-,.I,, elli.,... .....",~ copper "....k.v...... -... k, h~n 1;lIrd ""II ....... '~hM
po _".,.. look .J''PJ'y.ond ""'_ (,",,- 1 .1,, ..tv.." ..... of '''I'r-"' ... ,,,I" .....''"'.,.'
ot .-"

'P"""

e..,,,

fl ......"'" p' olraoionallool. "

1" ..... '"'' mullra,,' kndwn


\\ ...... ' P'" ......... '1, ':opp<or ........... an<. be ." ..... '0 Kiu1 poco and ""no ..... h

".".. "",It.., ,.... " ",_ "'"'"II....


h.ondIn Wli' not .....

11..

&UN " - ' . "

poor ,ODd ..... '" ,>I " - . -

h", II' qu,~k"

r..I"fWtt-"

\ltllOUfh ..... n., hnln" ,o,,~. eo"I,1 ".ve. do _hou, <anh~nw"r. lor .Iow.
,...... "1 M." ~ .... I b,~. i. " ran<ly pr...,ic&I,n .. pror_~ lu"he-n.. ",'he'"
II .. unlikd) ,,, ..."""" .he 1"."rW 1-' It .. "f... n u.d. h~r. for diohn
__ " .. ,....1;".. """'.10 an< """'....1 ,n ,hr ...... Jw, In "hi"h 'hr.v arr ..... ed

I'.... _'d{....t l ,."..

\hhOUfh .namd... l .101 ,mn '. 'Mpr.., ,i,.,.1 I,., ....LI<:O'pa ... anJ ....," ....... f.".
IN'VH'&I r....... n. (it n,.h f>Uily. """.1 ,1,.....,1", IIOmr l<.lO<I and i. ,-rry hu.vy). ;,
.. n ....JI''" fo' h...... ". br<:"UM' 11 ''01l.lU<:b h.....Iowly &11,1 ~Iy. II in,uod
'''',,(.,-.. ,he- ~( ..,rf...,.. is Abo n_ ..... a' 10\". unlikr pwn ,.~ i...... ",'h",h
,,~II n1M ,f not hI" p ..frnl.1 J,)".nd ",I...t. t-:n..m<"1...t <"aMj ..... poItL arr aI ...
,,,,I.hIe in .. , ~""'I-, or .iut ....1shapta. melud".. oy.ot. which - " ........ on eon
'cn,<"n' fu. br...
"h<"n .-IOM'.I;II;", _ I .. 'm~ ...1
Enamdetl c..al In,n io not ",,;.. bk f.... I'OU"", pa... or ....If pan. bc.:.ou ...

,n.

....... d

..

o.I"m,n

... .......
,,.,

.u ........

-,.

.....
~

..

~"

,,1

..,

I"" .......

boo I"...
S.

h,

~n

,,n _ u . h,I ..

~_

... a l ' "

'.

poI.nd ..J 1<

_n.,

...

'''I' II

hu.LoTJ~1'

i. !!,,,

,n

h~

lw- ..... nd
....... .....,.

..,,1 colo 1...,

...

01 lio.l
boile.l, Ih" 1><>11

t.. 'I" 10.

.u"," ,.y.n ,<Ii.. liq.


food ,.. .'"
10 .. b;uJ,..

od ......

fin...

h.wo ..

y_.,

.....

~ I<

. .....,...

in .. ~ h , Ii. 'iBh y in .... I... ,,'


_

M '* Mra;,!>.

1Vft.

.1....1

.1

1..101 ....

'"'

h h a k ( ..

1. . . . .'

II:

' ...

\/~

In r~ I.
.;!VI

""""'""' ...du.n: ~1Mn-d on.......


b.ut..
.....
I.... ", I.. in .."'; ......~ "I

C""Dlkc.>O

.....,...

....due.,
.......... mpo
con,.,d ....11.1 '" ,n
..'''I. lIocl.pa
ba ..... !-woO., b lD111; ....... II .. do "'~ _
in rom..,.
hNI.1
...... 01 lill..- .mr"1al
.\I.::Ill! lun ha, otockpcX' 10.. ,... ba

-:rI ..... "'"


~.hat

III""

"' ..I onln XIIh IIJ ......


Some II pOll have 1.111'" >1"1 .h
10m n facil'l"t~ Jr~<nl,,&' .. n ~ ,...,lIy
..... Iul h..,ure ...hl!n I""'p.a: ~q
III ... hi..h IlR ,,,,.. ~nom .. tn
:\ ..ario1y of IImAIItrr poll it....
uu:v I.n.h"no ... h.... .,..tucted II or ..
..... pH ..... I'"'~ -..gu1;.,.h 1\ per ,1.1 ,....I.y. hi" fu. I""
fI"
10 p.lm;on ~; I....
uid W
1 be ..... f~n..-<I ,. II
po

K lT e lll '\ TOO LS

. \ ,\ 1)

l"TF '\ SII . S

t........
wo Il

of hi....... ",,"",i .lIN


511l,...,.,........ I.

''''''''pa. .. re ."...."i.aI n "" I,rofn-

....... nlC.alo:: 1'"" ..... h.ltU"y


II
handl!!_ Th" .. ;,.11 of h~ :mr
m. .' ,he.
oI."'IIlt...., 11 .... 1. .. h.: 'Urn.
,nn... 1
1,10.,
fc; "Ie.!", 10 mall 10,
1\ '<>arM ch,no
II....! P ~....,u .n,1 .-u ,hat ....,.,1J ~uic " h
1U6I'.
Il\0l1 Alth
eft.. .,... chino
1M .. lim,

partid.... ~ ..
h,llod-.
ni"'bo ..... ~u,tb, "" .., t" 'upoDlKI (0",,10 .. 101>
M .. r
b o.Iwllo rI .. Itl ~
,..
.. be ...-...nN r. ...

.....

~.""Ie ...... ,.-t

"I

....... n.... ~ N' n,"I "U<H"


.,.....

n .. tI

..... \'\0".

....1 hd.t

a.... Ii

pI.o

."

on

;xl

....1,....:

.,...... pl ........

... tal or ..

fj",l.

.... , '"" ......"n

&.~

;d. ,f.

.,\
....

t...
ort

&C

"",'aI
>d

."

s c n I...
m ......
ch .. nk

..

'"

0.' .,'
r"",ulvan
'""' ..... ,.,Iy....

0'

on,...".. -f.., .... ,'

.. ,~ .~ .on .br .. ~...

.....

run

porwn

.-,.

'V d-

u~

,.,~.

'0'"

.,..riAu'" .. WI,I.- ,J ..pa'

~n r ..-nl

ana fruil
.,. lfNI'O cou' n" <lr ~.I

pecl~

Ii .. f. 10 .1
CDii
.tr:.. "I,

1""'ffl;~/i.wv

T1 ..., # " , u

, ... ,

.0.

10 muttu ...........
li

~ ..... khl'

....

~.
.........1.

aua!ilOO

_p.o,

.....

an
~

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r,

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of .......

m , "

&tnou

M.. In Iw

lb. b

he

fo

.1 .., eou
. &Jlno

>nw~ or"

oflO"

.,rel...
.K'

, Tl

11"'1

h re... de-

.and

.. h,"
Itlr ....

prncil ... J ru, ..1 :I"

'i- ....1 ', ...',, '....

tpoo

30

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vc

he

wIInk .. :...., he. II


1f......I,-..

11...

. '1\&1,

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-n

"" .. RlCwnl

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....

,I

,.., ... h,

:lor....

.:>1" ....

donp'oed.1 p'
...
f, t... tnt:
l"I'~hi...

100 .......

krtdwn ... hi""


1..&1 loin lrum.. ..

n... "I

l,,-, .. n' fo ann n8 ..... ~ .. ""

1m.. ate .... v.nny Mr n.... d u~h

<hup.

.. of;>un!

"""

, I\oou, ..

'n

t .\

'-I~~

\..............

I~n buy h.,

...nine S .... '

ti,'ul, '" uoe. 51.

:-lor... specially

.,

will.... cltoo
1"""'1 B.ot..

mortlor

'po. .alo I" t:

J>"II.., .n

.nd

.......!!. which ..... kn I

~"
\",
~
n, .....1n I .........

h~

...- ~

\_~

':1_ ~

""

...... ",1

,"'

,J",nb

em Jlar or li,run "'i&h """ion

,. ,

kIt,

f.

In

corn ..,.

lUlos"

,f....

kit

It
II<

l'

"-

It,.-,

J,.-I~

:\ ,,,,xl,.n

"''''''''", . . . n'

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...

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...
~

....... h

IIm..n

-....

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.al
..
... ,...,"rmlxn"' ndp" ..... I...
.. hlenJr . h ""h.
I. ..: '00' by Jbon. oua ........... ',1:
.. "I

'''PU'

PI.dN

"e<>Ik. "'n '..!.!I~I __ pl.1 ... C'toK ,ia1 In . . . n.oou. ......, .....,.. ,,;-h~
food ...., ... , I "",Ih. v&ne1V, w.1K"ft ' ",," ,Jillcn ',1 "I" ... &I"!I'ldu""",,
;.!T~r,.,,, q .... n:<t'~ ...
PI ..! '. If' ,,!t b.....,. d,tl.lK! 1"\'" wh" I. p'~~"~. II,,' ... uc~ If"",, rul.n,,,, lIP
""", .he 1'1.".,
1M oXT.,h ,of ,h~ ."n~r _li(I" 01 d>C' I'i.tt WlIi d..pc'nod
on I].. ",t..orw.u(e ..nd ,,~nl"llon. Oh.,,,,,,ly. m'>n-." .li,lol, d"n"~J'ttutd

bo,,..

brOlh,l.k. "'"t'(' ... illl,.- lie,", . J .1>.l.Il .." IIl.~nwl'y o;on. enn..." ............. n ..",. F...
l'Ihl-yk .....--. ,,,,,"-tn,h .!crp .... U '3"pproprv.IC For do:~r .."n"""",,
In NU.!,"" lmo",_ II.. pl.. !c. Inn", ,,"cll tJ",IIIJ Ix am&.lk, .,r Ih~ Muce ...11
fII,rqJ ..... ,Iunly ...nd ':'O''fU1
.~."i-

n,~w p">on ....... ~en.

'""(1, ..II<ln ,h....How Ih.. dinc-r '" 1.1''' .h,n uua

fr"m 'M boI.",,, 0111> .. plate ..nhou! h.o,''lIf 10""""": 10,1'1'1""1 dlu"l.. "I boorad
r" II. "I.II h dull, Ihe ....,,' x Il.. vor..,,j &llJ. u........ ~l hull. 101M _..I SoU"

.".~ .... ArC! ' " Ii ".pet\ ..",I ~ ..Imo.! perf.., elv It...
ApI ..... d.... ~<lm "I I"'~ plale
.

10

rJwv ,.an be- ~rI:> JJ


.

....".11..1..

~nbound uue... .are oJ'rn roo p.ak ..n.1 'un li<juid 10 b.. ...n,.J on "'fUl.or pI.oIH~4nY<hd.a .... I.......nli"l d b... In wid.......p bo-..,.I .. from .. bKh 1M oaure .at!
IfpPfd _h .. tpoon

JZ . Iau

Because sauces are often more

intensely flavored than the

foods they """""'P'" tht!v

must be prepared with the t..t

available ingredient$. Tbe foodo


described below """"'..... Ii<>iIi;
the liquid

medi_,..........',

...- ooobofcmn.e food. De tbeirowo


dUIe
ad

~ ~ driId dille. 01'

"""

au..

......

"

,-.rh.o.... l~
~

np
..d_I ........ 11 n~.11L oj
"" ........1....... " I'.........,.),
,n 1... 0 01,' coconu'
u he "'PI
.he l"i" ..... .~,., ,d

n.....

to ................. IloaIwIl ......""'


........ pulp
_J'&I"U :rom . . .t; II. \\

,..n.""'"
&. IX'

;,Or

fo..

,f' :'lI]C
, .... ~.

..dt" ..........11
, .... f:
P,.,III
.,tI.ve........ ,_
(,nJ n..p
to! II .... h .. han I

'. or .....

'. -.

ill" dan.

In" 0011

,...'e...

..... , "..redpulp .. ","'00.-1 ....1... ' 1 ,pC. ,On ,hl.. r~) .buil.
,nil"""" IA'I -'!e,nllrlu..,';lforl0m,,,u't'.an,l,henAn"- .),"""fh ........ I ....
......... 1<.; r<>V<'r.n,,'h~r """"l ..........,"1 ,h.. 1i'l""1. Wr.ap ,h I.a;_I",,11' ,n

.. k,lt!>." h_ .. 1 and "-"ns out anJ ...m~""'nl5 Ii'LUId 0 ..... the \,.,,..,1 Put lit
"\IIIf'
1',,11" 'he
J m,'" 1,...... 1."'1 ad.! "...,It... up of boiling w.o_
R. . .' J..~ ,''lI.in _ J ...ri"'; .... pro.......
h ....
milk .. ..d :wneJ can""'! _ . mill. a! :.0. k.. pt
h.. n
. . . ., for WHIo:. or (ro&/; lor ... ~ rno 105-

one:,....

_"I

1~/rJBkul~
r.... I&h~ &JId paniaJl., ~....

bun....1.. Iik.. :.10. awn.)lIt ....... at '!I:r"


,bal ,aka de.:- p.r. W1y 't'I )U.
Clunne IIi . r...... AI'
. . :n. Ilbo k bun. An' ott.. n u .. , i i coni" ........ will d -.eel ~hi!u tor chil~
putt'). , .1, ri"!tr. AJ,J .urne '
P"n'" ....ru~ .". ,;,I, ..,i~h~, bl;oek i.u.",
II ,I,J be n,..t. b ,I if Ih~> -n no' rin_1. fe_r ..ho..1d 1.., ,,-.I.,r Ihev 11 m"ke
Ihe save- too Klly \\ 'hen b ..vu>J lerm e.1 b' k be"n 1.,.,k t<lT hr....'- thai
haw bHn 1t..V\lft<1 with...... :rul nOI ..,111 Ch '"" Ii_pic.,.. Y"", ,J ....,
b
wh",h :0 es in "c&J'(":,.,.ro conWMt".
oM of Ihe _.nd
~. Ie
lA/y

't.Y'C

fi

n... ,*,Ied &..ouce II .... f,.",iament.;.! 10

:.<>utl.c.aa \sMn
kinr ...... ,. ........
"'11w ("".bne of Chuu.. F..t- ..... ~ .. 1fW.l- by all 'IInI>IAJ :rvtH.:It...... 'I&tI
O;U, &I"i _ ..oo....Jly tq\l1.ll .. IUI!l~" '" b.ar .... I. fo
Ih. iIIl ill :mwo. Th.. liq
"od fTiN.oe<l ~n,,. fish ... lK'e. Ju.1 iII~ 01;
.,..,..... n ddT.. n
sndn. I
poIrnc_ 10 too ,1_ ruh ......... ,.Jlh"",h 1M 1>...1 't' . '"
Sf ."1.. . ,,
Iar." lW<. mu, . tbM. lh .. ("hupHl), hlot> ..un: k",f'I t~ I. I" ~r.n th ..

n "Fr..... ", "the -'" il .-y rn 'W !.r.


.frnm\'M1I",m.Thaib.nd <If. . . ,..
\I.t.o..ch
Ii..!> .. ,
10" ~ Md ..... p..-I"""y .. :able (: I..n Boy Bra.: Thn 1....1. 1\no",I .
.,,01 fo'Y'ftI .oon :kattd ~ &I ",

"'' e _

.........

35

...

.... .............

d ,
......... .I .....

.IIiNo

ry

11........ I

oft
wd
Jap;oneoe
..,,,.... of d...h . nd I<
...t"
..by Sh "ft. h'

",'eb

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...",,-n....

a...

the","

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...,

fM

Pf'n.

"'.u

-u,..,..... f.. n .."'ed 00:


.. "..'n Ch,
Kon;a ....' an
h.... """n), prubal
twl liM
,be p ..a.nlV ot apa_
jjt,nl' t.u 1..
.... ,.,fl) &rlteal. 11.".. '"
t,.1 jll
WI ffn
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m ....... ~ .. w"nh.Dftl
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md" .. llIe" .... k:.HI 'n
lar y, . The' :.t
ro
,be
I~ SI;II. iI
.......
leh
I......, .. ~ ......,)
U~....'..
tI mal. .. 100<1 &: .p rpo
wh
co
n...
L""r propurt;o 01 ~ w:ry 1>;11 ,.,."jlm
d ... Iativ.t.v .,,~.at IS . . . . COl
kill nd ....., u .. 1,1 lip " . . .,
.. 1...1 ...11 t'a. II .n ....,

'0...

~m .... t

be- comt- =;l ....,h alrong

~I

..

10

".u.nc.. the ah.ro mlM'."

~,

.. and

.1 'ftl 10 ...... '''<'$1. L .1 larl. .. r. mo", V'Of)' mIlO( uw.c:.r...... :or nod"
mI. and"
",.. 1M....
"............ fI ... ,,,,, J are IIw ~ ,..1" ft.\<Orrd brult._
IKH. \\0 I t>r ",I
m .... art'
.. _ ...... "11\
~ I 'V
V.... I.,' r
",xc ..II.. "1 (I("
J-o T
"a"l.;>aV
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Paacft"
p

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(~.\4 ....

Of.

w,

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In " l

...

" (I'''' .. w .. leO' '101<' to Ch


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n.
Df Ih 1.. 1i,- v I
~ II
s.. cit O,,"'er F .., eel :>auce IS -II.. I e b.- nd C'.l) 0 Ii I
~rv. b
l;,.rl... .. 1".0 , on 1lrr 1/,..... "'-t '" '.6.rN... ...
J.
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u .. n.t .'r-Inc-..

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(J....-".K. ~ b" h,I,I..
.......,C'f,b.. ...... <> .. C' 'rR" ""')'0
d...m<1i re.n ....i .v ....,... s.. , ....,.-....l or n.IM.n...I,n..,,,,,
'" M...
mtn.rd ")' Ix-a: . . .nd
ira........ hor.,J '"
001
I_ItCh u .1;..1 or,..., ) .. r ..,......J or.oa h r-"
'"'
...
cJ .... 1 hI" ,,"I )1 II ".-nd ... ..I.. Mioo ""'.. ~1 .nd

",....

....,...

l""..........

C. . .

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'h,,"' wi""

It,

rnan., ,_nrlk-t of Ill)''''''''' ,h .., " can b

, .... , r. , ",. "'1>O'-;U'IIi ,.. 10 "'''CI". 1<.,,' n.h ... di-hn ....h ..,

a 'ill' .. upe ~ ..... n'


a ,n,,' ,,,""K-u'.r Ill)' wuc .. rna,1 ",l1~rll"". I;",,r;'''' bu...,h .... work,,,,
'
~'" " ,.. hI" Ii II .;mt ,h..,... n-. h
,hi".. ,,, look out ",r. ;\1 I ""por'

I.. ", .,
.aI IYIl h.. nc .ttpcn :ark,t hr. h \surh .. L. Choy or CI n K."I
bot- "" .. nd 'oalo or.n ... lwnli ...... , ..... oM - . n..urally bn ",I (.
xlb be.tb .ndr.IIl,\.ol- Ih...... )_.n.n .. ~ ...... II .l1y .........loay .. ,..,.
..... n "., ro,,1y ",." 1ll)':teI
..bout.
.. ~ OCCIoAI ....... ood .m Ioe..
_..
p-nft"o.lIve :\uII tic 10 ...un .. ad.. by fPrm .. nli", -out.,J ooy

'V

... h ...1 'Of"oNieasI

&Nt

ur....,n,h.anduplolWOyeaR-

11,,1.. illlPO'" lod..u..... .h "'",.-.. ~nJolJ>"nnean<iChin"..,ooy ...........


J.puwllelO\ ..... an: n.aahytha.nU,ir .., .........
antl,allne .hCh,_
cool g ,un.t. would ~. K41.
ooy &&;
mad.. ,n h.. lin
S~I"', h.... I'I~""'I :.L n .. vtJr lhoot makH
.clul in bo,h J4I""- .,,1
Chi_ :Ii..! .... .lapa.. M" 10, t:.lll" cumn tn h 'Ih
k ,,",lli,hl \1'8nl'O\ I Jr,
"'" "lit:! .. 1 ,hHasri, or ow .. '"),
h I~ I!hl ...y aa .. e <,onl. ,in,
mo ...... 11 L
IOY",IK"C! io moldy
n a; "'I'U wh .. n h.. d...,p <,ok. of ololk
~..... :i dianJlo 1/ Jiah ,n .. un:ok ... , w;oy T, .... .,..,rimeftl
h .u'
II
K C. ....... ,. M""". _
1 ..... 1 1'.... ki.. er Bri<J&. .nd Koon Ct."
t ",d..
p ~ In ind hat Ih y... ~ wI)' ,I .. \.1II.lr.o .......
I ~.. ... ill
lOY""
..... kJ ~"P ... ncI p"Oft' nc-eJ kr
""ehu I\. r4I' _
wI. ...... a; Jty. '" h.,n l:t<"<yr
abo hril... /'I'Q'
1Jlt.....
\Blbr.ndhomJakJrT .. J('>n,
..
ro
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lIt .. l1.. nl,

ani

:Y"'"

"r.

_n

l ;."",,.,,,J ( ",nu.,.;n,)..)
.m.nnd

h J.
n ntkd

II

h.. 1 sir. luou, .... :cly Ii'... Wllh rJ;o, " ,Innl b...... I." , b.......
......., .a 1< ... vtal. lien
I bun) I...' k..
be.., ,J .ur
h .tw:I.. "0
p.. T1t.,pu
hebuna. .. uwd.nSo<iII ....1

..,1..,.... '0 II'vt IC In .... "

n. 10

.nJ at.

,..

.arind P
'ntIh t.",,"rod pooJ...
nu
.n1.~ .. " ........a.bk ,,', <>rnr....." I
~~d'

t..tra<I", ..

",t!.

... Ilr.e

"0

t.ar.....

lIpen ..... an

Ii j i

:\alar

IWtI

floalD

1111

19

...

01.-.... Oil
or all , .. ~ 0,1,. oli,'" oil is.' .... m"''' >~ ,il.. and _Mia] rOT ...... c.. makin, and
grnt"a] """king. It i.. a,. ",I"ble '" d,ll .. r~nl gradn lh~l .ar~ bued on h_ Ih~ oil
i~ e"rao<eJ f,.."n the "h,'~ and ,he .. mounl of ol~lc ac,d " contains. Olei, il<id
gi,'u ohe oil" har~h. bn,ns I~~I on the moulh. ~h" hnt-qultl,,:y 01,,, .. 0,1. Ule".
";rgin (",t-I"!'" (.#rot in Fr,-neh. M'/T" "rr!Jlllt ,n Ilnl,an). co",,,,ns I pe~c~nt Or I~ ..
"I' olei~ acid and usuall.y lou Ihe words "Ii"'t cold preuerJ" or "p,.w"iIY p,.... ,,'Q
Ih~ label. This implies that cold pr... ~ure alone. rath .. r than h.~t Or
chemical5. Iou iJe<,n u~ to ""Iract th .. oil kom ,h.. olives_ E"tra-v;rgin ali ... oil
is a complelely natural produn or often startling delicacy and compl .."uy. which
i. in/lucnce<l by climate. soil. th .. "8l' of ,he t/"ffS. the vintag... and other I;o<;t, ...
Thue;ou-e no reliable rules il5 to which oil,-Italian. Spanish. French. Crul..
art' the he.t: [ike wine. each oil need. 10 be judged on ;t5 own parllcular merit ...
One consisl"nt diiTerenc .. betw.... n F~nch and Italian olive oils is th.tltal.
ian oil i. usually green aod the French i~ golden brown_ Thi~ is ~au ... th ..
F~nch .. se ripe olives: th~

/""/. <"'

1,,,Ii,",,,,,,,,,"

...........,. "

",,' "U"
....... ... t~U<' .... "
'"" flit
f...- v,
...... an

....

..II)

f'C'n~"'"

n.,...."

... , .... "ejjlTi

,...

10 , .... l

...J he ........ .

......,.J~of
,_

...

" ..... 1 ..... II


OV"'U<l<"n,n -~
1m............. '

""",n . . ,

Sui .. II
idth ., ..

a.-

.."u, 0;: con


....... oilnd
.\' f'C'
an<!
ao.;:: 1&&1
\\!>el"" 10'<1.. Ii ... ~,I .r'~n amrl1 11k. 6ol. 1W\a,i ,..Iv lHIr
.,...,.J ",lo,o1
Ind. 01 ,I ... !>il. an
found' 11.,1.\, ......& ,..",1 n.....r
...1 _ ) bUI ,I,ttl ..... "
" .,.1
'1_." .... tn>.8 .0:. be nnJ.,.1 I,
.1.. . .
, hOI.' rn,...,h ,tt "m(~ It. hut i .1n::>&1 t'I"''',~ ...... i
oil, ,\ b
........ in
,.. oli~ oil will n tn WI)'1.. !lOil... ,han '"8~ ... hle ,,1.

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.-nch.. "'01

Tly-

b. :wJ in ... co: m.al<int:. n.


lI .. di,.... n ..... :liu llavor by ~"ns .,Ii!leftf..used;;
If a "u'. pro:paranon.
ym .. .ddeocI at ...... io:r " . . . . .uch .. In :oou:;
,an ".Me k)...... fif\t;o.heb.c~':Id "l.avo .. oftloe ...... \\
.,;
on .lUi ....y. ,I Il,; ' 0fI1y o:onlr"li, 'ea its own I\Iblk IlAYOf' bu. 'enID 0
I"y lilt
.. cno:tunea diqw> ..., .. Jlavon ,f nptablea....." . meAt. Or liah. 0.,.,,,, ~ .....,

n..v-;" _,[ ,... _ I ...btle an<l nna... lo..


AI:on

1&1:.:

(h~racl..n.ri ... --'lyme .a

pn

)M

01 .h.. Ih ... e (ompoftOall oj Ir~ no- &l bouq~

<:: IIO'r1 .... b...ylulandpanlcy).

If k 1<1.\. ow.....11 II .. '"4vo. of I~e ~ ;c ma.,... p....lc- n .. n' a!Id III,,"


C. -eo IlIyotII! an :. . . :kd ... a Lat .... ~ ! ;' .:J" ,h\ ~e Intd tI ..".
~'od.Jc.e: WI-h m,~pou. ... CSfl.It.~ ...... ICn ""' 1n ':um r: )ts'I .. neG ~ ....

or >l!kr fl.VO!""td lIqUids to ~ve 'nll! .... , 11$ '10101 n.. raclll!f (U ,..a>:
,",,"rle!.i.e .. nd u.""'1I! b~on'''), l!. apn, ,,.d,, tn' an .I!IO b.- ad,led '0 . . . ' ~'"

NOCI.

,be Ille,

,~" 01

,--.,d .. ~i.:m 10 'l"p.a.n

I,"h.-:"" anJ '" ,:Ill.... ,he los.

......t .. au ',.il.l_ ;u.-.


--'byl,,"s rt"d ..

"IK"..,.

1111 ..
r-befC,. c

qt" . ..nd.

OW.tII

...

,~,

'10ft

"'~C;tp"'rel . f'rKlt"',
-:>fllly..."."J' ."
til ,', "an be finely !":!ppo:!l uui ad.1eJ d .... ,.,.. he .aI' ....

,iI'''' 'Ii cuoI. "1.

.-

"..

..

.1

1"""-

.. rl.J ..... ,..

"

h,h...... I...

tiI_"

""~n

...... I"l......,.. It

~ .. ,. uwd
h lorn
....

,\\l SIlIU)()\IS\-"f)

I'RLI-i' l

1''''

"'-ri ~ ............r
........... "'" ........ ;...,....-, r

of")'rio"" oc ......

...........

",....dan ...ttl'"

.... <1

- .......... ..

I"

",I.., *liP"'" ...... rI oIw ....

.. hau.....,o.::
v'n ...l . . . ....,h _ v.n~I"'" C",,"
a ......v food "",~k"'1 C" .... ,; or .I,n '~nl v ,",I of
mu,J, ......... h... IM>~
..... hl..! .j",,'J,""'h.... Alyof,"
u.I __
h.. ....Jt....
wilt! arr act .ally
limen
~ ........ n n .. way to

Toot.,
.. lIy

1<1 ...........

.,,('1'..... '"

..

In

~hM"'un! "

.. ill

.Ied

.alXd

.. ..011 ,fo rmsf '00"


) n

....

.r.t.:.y .,,1.,;

,...1'-

,;

........... ""'" II

.nId:or

nolli-

an

'tan..

XII....... {O .. oed 'Y


onolo .~hn ,I
_1111..,..1 __ 1'" kan..-ifbll
of lAnd d..,;1
r.uily !~ "'Ulhr.!lrn.
I ~.' ,<> ....,,,! ... ull .II: ,IMioIN _ hurt> W In ..,rv ~u,ck~ ...1:
d , ... tI
n......,.. ..M makn
' .... rn...:.g;y.
pc'C ... ny. problem
II lIIu.h ....... ..re ~ M
k: 11
to uta dw u............... 1 " . I
J..r a.p :v runn.
J
..dwl' I .n ~"... I mu '-..,.,
~..
0 aink. I nwdwel\'

.bo",

pb;

~J,

h.. m,"hroonu

a d

Im,.,1

to.,

b M

,I

""r'I

~uic"I)' ... ~

'h..hl"OQrnlll
or Iu...,

ha... ,lrWd ,lightly n f'n rub

)' .rol'll. N ... 'C'r 10..,

to ,how ,hAl In WIll


;1o.hroom." "Iouolic -... ... pl~tl;" con-

"i'he: an. )ftl krp ~ In pilpc'r hIr )I'" """n 'pn.i :I


W
"u cO\-.n "';Ih Jty 10
exr;-'<) ~
\\
r.:
"00' n M'''IIn,.,'P:O' loa...
II ott Mn
r: _ b lilT "'UI~ n :M..11 lit ich .llIl Man,j~ .1
and on "nll"&l, II
1.0..... .\"-1 "".hroomo ha, ,. ~ hlfh" rr
I"",'
rn
I l... ""IHd o""r a h." 'bm (~" i_kr hal b"s: ""f ~"""'.
&Jr.,
""".,n6 u.hroom.,a'. hra. h..
and j.l ..........hroo m...11
ml.1 y cool ... plU and ~ ....... m
"00'
' .... m. r
~
f: w
t'e
"
hr,ro'
II
,..,1' odd II
__ nli ........ OUr '-at .....,....... h
loh at pbd '"
\'''1

W,,",-

... , . ,

,9

1..

...........
"'r.t..

/.

,\1 .......
'I'" b:l,."

..

oh .... _ I ,

"

.. b .... .\' ........


.1 h.oJia",...._ ,
1dc
"..jh
r_

"''', II na ........
aJ

1" ..... 11

J"""W.I<
.II~,

rn

.~ .hf1l>

,..

I.....

.... .

"" II 2

I ........ r. ",' ~

"'.

..,

L..-..... bn ,hi 0 wh .. " II y '" MU'ft,:J "Ii...., <>


800II 1.01 ....
an b.. ,,1Jt..1
h 0'111
II w d ri ",rilli ,. Their It.vor lIand.

u ..... I.

,..u .uo.... bu. _

Iter. k lo.p ~nl..l Ih .....II.a


....101.......,..., ..00
I~i"l
F
'"
\\
dr
'""lIO'tH lDl
)" L.bt..... Jrwo pon n.i
.....\ IUIUrf of -n.I bo!r lOOd"'!wU :v d 'lO'd poro

::0:"",

0 'MnMy

prI or

"N .. 1111

mal...

Iorm .... rcdJe.n.


..."
0'$J)e"
'y ~
~ 'ho buyr.., Jned bokt.... loot,. k Mf<''' IN In h It.
1&K th.ope
'"
Ir:
"""" '"
\'1'0 bap
"01...
) . 1 pO-ft.
-wJ
.... bt
:y On and -J.....J fo .abou. T r.: 111< n b.u< .."'"
bth... d.
1"1)0
"l'OtL ..d
1)" ...uc n
-"'''IIi.lu,d hould ......... anti .1... ",uti ~ .D II ...,
,. pou 1"1 ...",1
1ft ... " ..

flavor het

w"....... ..'

... rn ' " lef! b"h

in ,I

1wtWt...

:>owl

\0,

<> 1ft> call ....1 lUI

J.ap.d ... h ...."'" .... trom


(

60 I

..

prob.,i>Iv~ .....
.... ~ II
r

in.ch

10

)s<

t ",...,h.
8 m)!ont.

"" ..... I....,.,,;opul.u


.... L "'"
h.-y.,..,pof)
I. .. ~ ..uy .. :-.ok 11"'...h"....

III

"PO

,,!nlH t.:n

mu

..... I.or,r .... _ ... "" "at..,


~. t..m .. " . - r.. ."~
.....101 ~ ....

,
n..
lor I.,

....

,I" ...... e< .... "

ou

"""",,Ie I ~oIl, I.......

n""" d,

".1>""".. ,,1..-.;",,_. ,""",-/4t

~.,,,,,........ ,,,

............ of ........ ,,- -ho. ....... - .,' ,1,0;, '''''1"' ancl .......-;" . ,010.-

"ev ... tid; ",,' ...... 1' .... 'e ,,".bIo... k colo.- ,.....,k .... ,." , .... rl.t

,\on (.' .../W.- wkwt"J An " .. , ... 1", <I.... WI''' .... '''''''' 1\'Lon:h I" M.., n.~\
'T'" ~ '.J>C " ... ""'Ai" 10,,, ol &P "C'. I,ke ."". , ...........n ........ ddl~ "I,
"",f.
..c ",....... no:t __ n,....r 11.... " -h,d. vanr. <0 ..... 1.,.1>1.... .,1,-

....l,nl
.. ~ ,h~y ........... ~ .... II oh~n .. :"'n-"'~ll JeI".lc bu., ""'"
b ",d, ,~wilh,.,"'h.l,ool""i,'.compl..".".J ..n"'IIII,I< Th.-ult.v .... 'abH.
I>ro ,,,.1,, mil I,' .... ,,-"" in I",.. I'''' toU or . _ - l~, ur !..y rn!lr .,..... ;". "II~
M ..',,;r. ,n.t:Y "",I.e ,,,...,,r,,,.,,, d".,II,, ..... I, an h.- "Mol on dny .. _ """1><'
l""le 'If ',,' .. "sh,..,.,m . t'hOPf",.j
fj,-1 Im"""",",.n ~~ril. .....1......

.....,..!.

<rW-,' It.vori,<c f", """'om'.....


fop-'I""j,,)" dried """, ..... ..., iml'"ned I",,,, tr.."""....d l ....iL The h .. n, h
....,., _'Y lend .. 10 ~ ~.nd more RfUt.ny oNop<'Ii. ""h .. m,,'" m'~_ 0..
bUI 1M Ind,.., 'YP" ... p"rf~"d., ."""I,,.bl~ ltk> ....I. an- J ..cO .,...." W,,,",,,,
I,,,,, .. '"h" h flYn tl...,m .......I.y f1a~'r thai ...m.. ,'Onn_U'" 1,,,<1 dom,nu1"

"'I ;'''' lhal """f'klr-.e"I'lh~lr 11 -,,,' ""houl ,j",on"'1 II.


One..! ",,,,,,II ahould}'" qUI.-l.ly rin....! un,ler, ,,1,\ ruoo;", waler '0 .. lim;
" It ".J and ",},.,r pari" I,,,. ,\her I~ ha'''' bft." nnwel. pul 'MID in. bowl
&nd ",,",,"'leIMm ,.."h ~\ackU~ tunIe.1M.' ~ '0 be, u ...01 ....... ,n ... h ... h , .....
" ... ";0';"" or ~\.od<" .. ,h.d h... been .,mm<"....d ,.. eI; .... n&t~ lhe akoh<>i). T"he:v
" ....!I-. ""'1"......1-..1 ~'fl,,, ~O ",'nUln", IOllro.and .. !.orblhe ... .....,.,ndi"l hq
~wl "" ... r~ 10 ,,''r .. n,' liq\"d left in Ihr boIl"ID of It.. bo..1 ....n ad<11I"",,"",
tL'"n"l fur ""'u, n.
Gyromllril muahruom ... 1OIT\~. irnncaJl....t "/aJ.e m"",,!." or -brain ".uah........... "
1<1, _tim... 001.1 m.,....' .. 11wv .... k .. n..n>rlul .ond ha'"e.narled and .......
uL... U"," .\lIh"",h
.rr.an ;n... pt.abk mu.h ........ f... cook;.... d.~y J,ould
, ,,.( .... f .he price of more!.

'M,'

>rr . rn
Conaid..,.; ... 1M Ia"i.h pta..... ha. lhey haw recei"ed owr dw rentu..- "II ia.
hi ...d lhu many
cook. and dwf. haw /lC'Wr worIo.ed with or twa
_n lrum., _,,;.... who ha .... had d... Of"P"""'nl\)' 10 . . INfI\eo ... eM .......

"",,"11(""

"-w ......no had 10 rnot"Ilo"...rwd or ~ ....-and~


...... ___ .... WIIh ... 1iuk A.r._.:ouId ~ .. ~

We----.

"'... rulll
h n... .....

"

-"

f.......

........
f .......,

o-

at OIIhc-r h _

........... ""
~)

.t.,

Ift_

Jw~ an! nr1Y '"''0 antt'''' oj


n~, Wloa:
.... r
:0
a".,lab!.'rn ... oIOUJl to
;>or,.." ,I- wu<:"r.Th, tl" ",.h",/-'re
Lu:kl",nt""P1"II"J.-r:-Itr
""","""..,...-) and .he ...hi,.. trUm" (r, ~r
ldt I
II'
"'1
n "l1n T ~I'WIC
Kanm, Jl :'\~ml- ..., I uwally_
"Pond", L"n,,"'! Sut.... rwoor hn ....Iu bef. 1M bl...ck I'nneh ... ri~.
It. ........nd odor ,( lrull.
moat
10 d toCri~ )til how who ~ ..
....do- an .n
.u.alIJ ap'ft' h., II
I., II ;'0 un'~
p
I i",.Iik, ............
1uJiano .J1ft( I _....... , . -hilO nlllI IlIW, ltu

\.xo 'tl;1II 10 W .-erfy

.;.001.

.. r....."',,....,'" rno"'''

w ..

.,Td O\~ ""nb


.. h
III AI"

p.at..o
"''' "1('"' I...
bio, h.d...
.. c:ooI.'nc
.,., Idid" I :;...ulicerhruflln :.:In hul.., ......artp<r' M .. hoi..

lIlII

fuil,

It tnofl"

&nO Mk'"I' I
ot&n Ap,

un." -"...,

""nne: ,n

-\..r L

bk).

II.

~I Swl" ,n

[)..~nn"-

,i_of ... bo. ... .., ..


:If
.. f'<'n.., C. n
jUlI; leil )r h"r y /"
If
an: .. And'
01
INn
'" 5ul ,I.. an,l com"" ,I
,h,loI
the Italian wi ., "'P<' a: J,
k he "".>1.
) h h....,l tie... ; .. n(O'

"I""'htrm

.. III
n .........

.2

ou,

.J.nos:

....."'.. or
1m .... ...t...,

111- I,

~'h

11...... J' ,I,."


~Inll\

wi.., ...,1...,. ....

,
11

".. ,.

h ....

"",....J Ii h..
,~I

;..,

an-

"'

ob.,..dr.""- .....

.......... ,"_.. ,"'" _

at,~.
......... "--r.... I' - . ~l 'n '1\.. '" .......,1 '.... .....100 ...
,.,.,...... _
rood ohopo. rio. " ....,J"Jo hIM:to ",Hla
,. _
16"" '!OlIN; .Ioan ............ ~ lab..a.d ~
. . . ."Io~,
.....
1~a...
I' ........ " ' _ WId ....,... , ...., ,Ioe 1<, TIn ...... - . . , _..' .... Iy
:<" dun f , ... , ...-".".... p - - , 1~1"nor 1.......1.01 tao ed ''''m.. ......
,...." ......kNI,,,,,,-. ~h,L ". ~~P"""~~" II...... 'a, .... ~~ I,"I~ I\.. ~,..., hutd., "

I";o>"&n,- ,h., ,he ,,,,"l" "'. nl .,.,n~'n ........ 1 ....... " ~L ....... po; 1...
ehoOx
re at ... an .."c..lb, '1 ......1) bu, lhey ate .uIy I" .. -'ichlly
or :.ollorr.",d. b" ......" .......... Iar lb..." ,hOM lal.J..J ....n:.........
T... H\co pHlo .........1<hu .. l.. of IUlIIIImet , ...Ill .... T",," _ _ ate _

,,,,Ill....

..n) ...a..bIe and .....

f.r Ina u~n ..'-. .han f~"u,,,, F ........ bl. .. '" - .


ao .........
pur~ 011 >r ,ban deu;v;,,& ,1M unwary d_

;W otM ...,.........

u..r n ...."t" 'M, hA""~'''' I\"',

....c .... 0
Onr corn... n ial p""luc' , .... , Can be utrr_I~' .....Iul ,n ..utft. hi .. ~ "ulII .. juice. It .. no' &., ...11." tI,r ,uk.. 01 ,lor ,rull1r bu'I.M toolr.i", liq' J from ,10 ..
~"f pr"O<'eU- 110,. "loKf'" cu, be u""!.o tiw NIKft ..... b.I~ I. 11 <It 'Nf.
Ii.- {pPrl>apa .....' '''l''K1>In,zab/e. OO'I''''''fI,!w ..., r A "'Y"enoDa'
lu:il}'
I, _~s....,iaIly-'1 ,n .:.&daauca ..., .... -..,yo. ...... ud .. ,~-""'-<I
ulKft. Bru,d. oIlnlllk

In val,,),: _
"-' '!tlor n..
:MIi ... ......"1.,, hik.

'u...... "&0)' c:on~bIy

.,.....nd ""' ... aahy, .... bil >I a:ompual

,~I""'if9 FreA T,.,.fJlu

F..... h 'nlilln ..hould be u ... d AI '1 ....-1.1.\.. AI p""",bl" bu, c..n bt- I.rp. lor .. _1.
'0 ,.... ....." in I"htly ...IecI ,....... .\1.... m,,,I..,... "I ,,,,Illn rKOm",end ~eep..... ,b.-", e ... bt-dd.J ,". 1M 01 raW ,,-. Tn;. dou no h.nn 10 ,h. 'nlilk bon .uch,.....J ..;,her, l1w rice Io.Hp' ,1M 'rulll" ohy bu, don noth,,,. to .alt_
pnfo e. and he net i_II ",'M _lai ... in dw f'I1X"u; ..h.on cook...! .. Y 'VC.
~ " ' - I .....y ....,.., .. _.-bed ia 10.1
Br.-.."... ,he..-olNl of In.rifln d, .... '0 lnod., on ...,n,"4I f~ .. ouch on e"",,
bu~r... n<! er~&III. ;1 m.. ku "'''"' _n.., to .. OR Ullm.,. ,n .. ;.ar ,.."h bull~(""
.,,~,h .",hole elJl1' (on ,hr,r .MIl.). Suner ,I.... Na bft......nd w"h ,rullin "n
t1 .... bt- u...d ) I;"';.), ..uen. The aTOma 01 ..",Ill" peadr..1ft 'srMl\~ and
..nu........... 'II ..... T N " ... t!wllt bt- uwd for _kIln or Ihr vol1

....t r.. eg.ba_ ""ullilied.-ucn.


P~"fIT,..""'"

If ..... 10. .nltlin .... ~ ", ,_1 01 ......... 'M-,r n..'I'C" .. be pre"*""*' 'Y
PP"'S ,he.. 'Ishtl) in I-'I.utic wr p ...... Ji ............... " ", pi ....'" hap.' ~.I
1..,.....,,"1 ~~m ,n .. ~old 1t'H' "r. preferably .. ~""I'-j ..... _. In ,hi .......y ,hey ......
_
cooI..d ...... w"h _
octwr
hod .. Unr 'I.........1,.. ,I... :M\ho.l wtll

.... foe- ,..h,,~ tn<m ....

wi

..:h "'... e,..d I......

I.

,,, . 63

k ,,.,

n.

....."

., .....

....... ... ..

","'..nr_ '0h,l .......


a .....

IM.I f ....

'C

(~lr.Jllu flo , , , - ' /.. Ir.,,#

:...It....... .and.. _ 01 -:v. 'l'J.es a"" ..:dn 'Y ....ta,i ar WIll M


"'"
II rrol'ih ~ cooUd II
:d 0 :>!If ....a..
......... ~P" 1'W'<OC>Iftm<'nd fu.o,"I I'1>f'PftI:>C''' -:t<J n '110 ...

_~....

.. ""''en'<

"1.I("~p.o.n dun".

Iw....

nulls 0 ~ku '"


"ilI.s d ..,he .........

\\~"I Jowhofl ........ <>""'~n" ..... ,"'wllh


~&JI'" 10

M:I MIN'" "

't

:lra",,'1w lrum ..
~

"lI.
h tNflles bUI don ttl.

:w In fAl'han on l"l"ida,u,'h . . .",1.. , 100I"hl....1

...\I.aJ .. ir _ . .
h....,
/I
rolf ..,
~m.
II-- AI ".I h 'ta....... ,h MUC"""o,n
wltl:ho. bull ...., eN.. .... . . . \-OIU ,....

n.......nle

_
... . ,
Ibt'cd raw lrufl

;n .......

_,he
....

i!:Ie:,h ....,

For bun -.nn


..
,.... -oI"h .., h ~ ,rum..
:J"", II .U~ .. with h.. b ,....

4/ln',

.,..... rdin.
fUM"

I~

..... _ _ h
IVY I'Nmbr!

.... ad.he
lOS
.I, .... Ii
lnworku,ro

~"".fOWrd

will.

... ..d

\'Of'

!lpCdra

~1lMIII

In~...
lid. ~JII" ~l.r
'l u. __ he
r: 1.., ,h n
,nf
h . ,.....u<r
I II n lKed en

"'"mua" ~ .."
....., d .. ul h "'.r ' ... Iw<...., .... f' ,I,
hou .. ,n ...t.., ... and ;
.......'

...... ,....

P"B" 'IZ)

..lCeCIlru 'In

n.,odlnm ...
?ldv .........

f.,

fit ...

In1<

h..

m-

h . brlll<pr ....
.d

......

"""an ..

"

II'

'L'T" .\'11 SI I-.DS

.,. -

..'"
.... m""....
.~h

... ,11.
u

I.

"I

...

h_
:I ....
.....nd ...- . . .

10 .\l

In

..

PORK PRODUCTS
R..- .,..... .and

,-an- cuAd p....1o. prod""'l wd. .... "-,, ~ .........

.,.of_ ..-:I.o .......lnbut....'OI'.o ......... Ra,_ ...... Be.:'_~01"-~. h,..-e. delicAie

"""""' 1..... _

Ra..- w ........ OCMn U'l!' --a....t 00' cw..t ............

ohould k _ how

1o ~

,Iwm.

III I"" Un'rN Swn, "'-ron ito ........J ~ Iwnac. It aboWd _ ........ .
alJ.purpo. nlBlponell' 01. Ra...,.. haM or 10 rontribule "VOl' and ...... ...
tin 10. br. . beeau.e of it, MrDIIf amoky laaIe. It C&JI, howner. be _
... betitu.e 1Or..tc pork and cut UIIO amalI-,.. (Iud-) and UMd . .....
cur.1'ar. ftr'W\Y 01 dieINa. TLeIan:b....t-Jd be blanched far 10 ...... .
..... - - eo _ _ _ _ the InMIky lAMe.

oJ

""-d.w _ _ 01 ........... r.tbt.cl. ............ c.-- ..........


....... ~-.~oJr...~ ___ IIIIn ....

...
-

......... "" ...................... ,.... ........... _ J


............
_-............... __ ...... 111,...,... ..

~--

.......

'\1
_

II"'''PO

"P" ..

..

I...

..- of ..w~

~1"'1re.
......

..1t..lf........ I.Mn ....... an


..,..,.. "",,01

M,,,, ....... bo.t

Low.. .. I> ,..,


,..a..,d
'"
I....
...a1: io ,,~ed........... .., .. red
P"'................. h.lyOllI~
..
-~~:.t.", ....
....... h~nc ... U..,i ,n I~ ,I. _ t.am. ...... "na~.d""'" In II . lJ .." ... I!It",
... ~v ot ......""

AI

__

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h.. mho cornp "':VAl Ii .., (
In M l.. rr p'Dd
on
M.de-,ra. 1 ......~, pan
n an
tll:NU mad n
nO"
.ttJ..ptl of umf an b.Lt, Jt
U,
i\\a.jO',11
.1 an""
..... :In! 0. I,.
~. lIy Sf
hIP"
JorI.,. .... I.,.J II ..
'horn...,
.-.J r,.:><'S \\.&d ."..,
,.Iyd ..".1.
lIy

01

11.._

HoUe", ..

h,fug.......
1a .1-., .. T ...I, wn"'h m"k
3
vp
or M kif
II.

""d.-

~.

"

~,

r.

~,

"

In

h~

' ...,
~,

"

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,he I.

~Jllo.

.1.,..
pop

,
7.

b'OO

.. ~,"il\ .. I "mplt"'
~

,,'

m .. ~'''1
h.,m~

... 1s,

rC

"'"

c.a11...1 H ,n..
II h.n.,.,.....
on.&.
n .....1 .. JI
.......

,""..

..

p....,

-',en ....... I<I'mp.o ... ."I".... , ... _1101......""",,_,, ..._

t ..... u ....

",,~

from Po......~ "m.,,~.n .. ,....... """" ............or"" .... ' II,


...... k.. p""~.;, .. ~ ....... """'.. of"'hid....... ,It"'..,.,.t. \''',11"1_,..,,, .... c .. ~n
of,'
,tv. Ii io boo
V...-t..heft".,.. "'.":1 "\r~'
"",1M"" ""W...... ot I"'" on 'M ......1..:...... hich., be.! WIll contnbu ... "",l..",
,.,_ .. " ..... \' ....,....... h..y ... ,IIl"'" th, ... " ....... ' ",,", .., ,I,"",
",,01 ,,,...... In ........ ,.1 ~;IrI<"Ii(, .. h.., .11 pOf1 .. ,,,,,.I r 6" lI<1d,"lf aI<oh,,1 or
I..... ml., <0,1,, "'"., h.,h..... t"rm .. nla';on "",,,,,,10',... 1. n".I11~ the '_nla.
,,~prffft&IUfttvand I"A,," na,ur.! . . . . ...,..... n ,hO'",,,., u...oi,ally.lhr~ ....
f.,,,, .....do ul port. \',ntac< pori ;. made f..........peoo of it. ain,p, ._, and .. I.f,
for ...&aii>d.r.bar"! "m.. ,n wood l>eton: ~"f bottled. I... aJlow.W '0 ,,,",,,,,, ...
.. "'..... ''"' 10 /illwn ye;"R In ,he bonle and .. ,he _
ure-ive of ,he t .....
1)1..... I..t.. hoff~ ,,In,.... port (wood pon) i. 11,11 I~r In...ood , ..... Yln'ar
port ..... ,h.. , " m.. I" ..... ",<ore 'lui..).1.,, II .. I>fh, .. r In ",yl.. .,,,1 In.. ""P<'n"'/~ than
.... ".~ pon. T..... n.l' pot'! ,~ lroltli''''n"lIy rnal,ul,"-I"",,I hy bl~,,,l.n, IM,n. Irom
.1011-...... ,,' 'I',nl~ _1.11"...,.... Ihem I<>~ f(>l" m.&I>y yean;n 0.>1., ,,Co..-h .........
'M a*>r 10 Ium from d ..ep ......110" ~" ......rutK- brKl..hh hili' Som.. ku~..;,..... tawny .--.'.~ _p~ +.Itond. of ....1 .nd ......... I......... Rub:- pun ...
,...,' .... bknded ~ II;. tlwl;'htnl.and 4'&11 '"P"'nt.l'''' of th .. pan \:)1'"'
oil .... prK<' 01
pon. ruby J"'" .. u-l molt of..... in th ..
I. .. , h~n Sd....... PO" w"h ..
I.~'r, r"IIILovor. and" compln .. ar-.. m..1
nr oo",,""oo.-h bon'I.,......,,,j In
mOIl,h, Sum.. hr.nJ~ of ",by pot! .r.. ",lith.
,VHiht., .. ,1... ,....).,..1 a 1... urn .. 1""<' 10 ,_'1 ,"-I.h",w;1I impa.n I;ttl.. h.
IhI tAu .... I, .. ott.. n pra,"ca l to ___ a1"hdy more ..xpenaiVll hr&DI1 ot pon
"'Ifh IIM)ft flavor. bad). ,"""I color lhan an 'nuP<' .....'.. bn.nd (..nil of.M bton..r
P,," will be neederllOI"'" dw nK ..... ry .-omplurl,) At>d _t_IO'n., .........

h........ ,..,11.....

,_1 .

_'"n.

a..c.u...

_I'rocxII"" . . .

0&JV"'i_

rn., bto..... iur ..1 ,..,.1 wine in woIo.i"8 i. {omp!..", \\1I .. n {ookf'<l with l000:I1 t"',
..... ntaln protein.

tU, h .. fish or ....,"1 . he .annina and pip..nu ('OI'It.,nni in I....

... ,"" .ombi"" wi.h the p""..in. d ..t .,.., ,..,I..-d dunn, 0:001<;",. Thit. remo'....
lI'ILK'h 01 ..... c:okv. acidity. and any utnnpIK)" d.... to d ... taftnm.. n... P"K'""
.......... IWb, On<' of darifi~.uion. It dw WI1M' u...d ................y tannic (vou...
~ ..."......,. in t .... IIIOVth). tlw p,-nll ......Y ..rpantor ~ ..Iv dutulf
........i"', 00 IIw IpHk. of pipwftt willi... vialbior in 1M 1I&lK'e.
If - t wiM it. MUcord "';tMr alone or with Ilavor compone_ Neh .. _ _
or ,..-1ic, .... hich <"Ont.. n no protein. 1M !'Hult will be. ..rirel)' cliftff.at fl'Olll
......... I .... win.. ia {OOke.J ..... th ........ iUh. or "odo R..I wi1M' rorcI.-.:i 1ft dw ab_"" .. ot protftn .. I&.b1ot co _ ~ ..& and ...nnpttl bee.- dw __
oOIId lann ..... will_"'~ bftn "clarifted" by the....-.. It. necI _ _ pnpuwdhy r_ ~_bin.... l ................ _
. . . . . . . . . . . . c:anluIIy~

...

,.

-,

.., ,I

...........
-~

h~'

.... ,
........

",h

...

.'

1'... "''''

",1..1 ..."
ho,
.po.U"I ...
Th ......., ",I
I

~n~ u I ..

I,

"

f'I..... , ...1... ...'..,

w......

""

h ....

......

,., ..... ~

oe...

..........

or ,I

~.,

","y.n

...1 In
"ft!,.....

0 ....... ...,nl

OC

. . C ".,..",
WI
wi,)
.. '" ,""II
.. ~ &I
01
of ....
~
Ii. ~
&I
!\i- -Ioc .......k _J'I<'<",II)w"u.udo
o,...aIi("n .. Z... r..,..I,,1
.... ~il
.. R, .. .so.. \1 .....
(, . . . . . . u('C'

,10.,

m.,..

1<,_.

't,.,,,..

~,

"""

....

.--...
~

wmcl''''''

pon-ib
Ii n;~
10;",,, pa-..J
,"".1 I. ,nk. The ......... ; ....1.
ui"",l.n.h

,,(, not

Rd.If'",
J.~

I<

.... ,"no

WIn...

of .\;

"'''"

mi." _ 01 ,....

...

...10, ....uiabc.illf ~1.'.loo.:: .......


10 b"1l
,I .lcoL. Sal<..
... r.....
_10 .. en ~h
",n
II........ ...,.
......,.......~
IlJo....-,
I.: ...,;.ty.r ... l
_
hn
Ch".............,.....
I ........
rI
'>holic ....
....._boo
~
~

bre

lil<"Jdl'<'n ....

....,..

... min"

I.....

,,1.

,... ..", ....

'" "w, .... ')h..rl"\

..., ,1I .... T:' L. n

Ahhoush
"

",..il

.t..

e ..... " .........

..",I
...'

Ih..ooll

. Sh..r

"",,,,,

, '.ob

h I... tnnsoor

... ,10 Ceon

."

80 1 A

. "'" .

,"mv

n"ll ot

... """"

.on br ...

01 Ie Ch

'n "'" In

..bit,

1\\_ ..
b.. ""'I ....

"

." ,. ,I..... ~
al lill ...,n'
.. "

Ix

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"III

1. .,ot, ..

ina:

...
. ..

,~

"nl,.,

Y" ...,.... on 'k

,,1oiN V.\\

Ir "", ..

~_...

, r ' _ I,,, ,hr 10,, I.. , "mrmb., ,..., ,f,, ~f ... f....... \1
......... \\ .... , ""II n "'..," h~ ' - " In", '.... , al .....

hrnu~

,.'f'O' ..",I1' ......"

:... tid .".",,,,,...1,,,<1 ..

,,,,,,

1',...... ,,,........ 1""..1.""

','Ioofl'......

.....1 ... he. """, .Lo"", ... id. ,n ..... """.. .. iIIb..~ ........
In "' ....... ,bu.on~~n.T...t .. id,l', ....... luI A I..riy .... __ .t-w
..... " b. uMCI .. , Ihr " ... limOl\A<:" nod", ""ft for .. boo ........ bIuo." (M....,..w. .. _

.j"",...,I, n. "" ....... ",.,... bIa...; .on'",,,. MK'h .. hif40 ~ otbutwr

tI...
.-.-ry.o dw .........."" and fta_eI
d.r tinl5h...t .. " !-....""h whi ......i ...... ~;.,II,) Sau.......... Blr.nc: 00" M..
<..rlt1 ...... bco 10' 1............ I.J.nc.buo.j ..,,""" or ... her lAucn iI'I-mdo. Wp
p""p""ion of .......m or hu....... UMd 10 tinilh
"or In .......1 . . - . ........b are._ ..-II aid. ........ flIaooaldlt ...
..icI (for .. _pie, ("hitkrn or fW,. c:eaI&ed m . . . . - ) , ......... . . .
....n .... " U"f of .. "";nt '. n ..... r.l.cid...

t'" -

dtouId be u-cI. ~ ...... -..-.11 Mw ........... . .


frrnch ('CNII1fll*'U ..... -"- ~ . . . . . . . . , . . . P "

~ Blanc- .. npecitoIIy,-l .................. .....

... CbanIoa"'l)' wiII _____ .w...p ...... of dw,...,. wilt. Ja.II .. - - .

OTHER INGREDIENTS

.........

......
11M

................ ..

oor

"

...

......

....... r

"".

,-

lor

"I
...

L: .. I0~._

~'''''n~

,"J,J...

,,,""

..

h,"'
.,...1.

oil

""Ioru

y..,

1 &II

.... h ,I

"u~~

.on ......

(rn"
~~

,.....

.'bu,., ......

In<>l

n ...... ' l'hfy

'V.

.... '-0,

In

Y" I>IIw, a:
Won I""
~
'" &hob.. d... I)'

in l"'Iu.,h .u~h ......... ~ b-ooh. ......... co' or 'f


C
or ...1 h.ru ~fl"'" h.o ...
plu '1 ... h.on ......
.... aro fti "' .. I' :I& ,n ... u,~ . -I:vpt< .rr.... I,; od
h .... ',.htl "'--..1
I~' I
Of'
lhe-",
ho,
., IInd.1o - ' u ~f,,"

.I.'"

chOVl>ft

fu

l"Iuo<u"

," "_

........ DRIED CHILE CREAM SAUCE

otT

... i[i.o.;

II

(U' '"

..

Itll

H .....

~~

II'

,."

'"',

." ...... '"

h"

... ~~

........ n<tI..:."&M

Tt~11

'" "' ....

..

k_
"ndl l.

..

...

,~

... "

("

"

..... '011. 1t.,N C 1111" " "

"'

"'-QOI

s",:>~

.tta.

'"

..,

.od.... ,\\""ie.n thilr ..... ,~


I
~.
.....,,.. <lrli<-.ow.. b
.,"h
",UI'H Itt own ..!eatin
to eook w
" 1K..lkn,
'
.... h-n ..
_no
Ji
In
..., .. 11
'ed""lio
'K rpnuqlj.

horol~.d

c....... ,

onl..
.. II

""

-,

Mit

10...

'.

'n
~fl lottu hr hi .... n/w
..,'
.......
h.. <h.
h
k. II~1 h. .. m.n .. 0
,lInll
an . l'u l h..... '".
.1 ", I ...
\'0
..,
f b
30
nIL lit
111M' ..
hr ;:H.", IU
("hop he
<>q

....

..'

....... I"

" ..............
a,"I'

... .,." >fl ..... .

......... y ....t.!

. . . . . . . . ,"".,....

Oft ..

.....

'0"-,,

o ....t.t,

" ""II, boosinn'''I cook, .",1 cMls .I no. ~ ... d,., ~ ~ I1n...... ...t q .I~ :of
ho<'oIate
'u
kt.n ....1 al
_1I ...1y
,t..
...If
...,""' 111~ II, .... y 01 ~., noc , ......._ of

'*

to""",

...:oloo,.

' ... no(

" 'Hn"~ .ws ...... ~ ",11 pruduclloa


,'-'oI.I.,n,I,. I ",.. ,St.,..
oanrn""'h I.......; Than , ... - .. ~:.u""'I'" ............ ,1 q .;al,cy "d..,iy ,,,,,,,"OIl..!.
So. ""I .., rruok"'S 1o;t'lh'IU.. IH~ .10""",1.., ... k ... rl ... '"' ~J,,";o...... u_ Enu""","
;100'"

t~. SW"f.erL.... / .Dd 1~It!:;um.U h,., ... ue,

II." br.u to

.,'It.. hOCOAie NOlen "",II lor b' ~r ...... ~' .. ~ ho",u,lr 0 ......
:III neceaan~' <nO ... b ,er ,han tJw uti ""'"
.... n.a~ simpb llu. A0r<
lor.. :I. CI>oto _labeleJ b"le~'''''T
wmiawPH conw _ ....101"
eo .... :01<_ IOIid. AIl,1 coco.o bulle< Tht coco.o aotld. an n opo,... bl. k lhe
color. ~ .. ~~.".I d.. p"
ita""r of ehe Ate. w"'"-o II ~ b :In>
rn..... II l;uNM .. "I. unoo,h telliure. I" t:..ro,,. ,I AI uf'-:'\lr~r req n<:I"
p'" ,h~ peru,,'.... 01" ""'-';;.I ."lids 0 ,h .hd. Th" porn 'nt"!" ,~.I"iny ....1;
.bt.. ,ndi,ator 01 ,.. J .. pTh 0' II .., 0 ,.. "?<"ala,... B'lleR"''' ~hoc.t.l~ will
11.0,..... nywhere fl"Olfl 1; 11'
P'"'"""
,. aoIid. &1M! app 'O".m.ol(I., 15 JM'r.
('flI1 :Ir,. b tift _10 11 .. __ RIIU. n... be" m1.hod lor d..!...,. Ini", 'M

I)'

q .. 'y of a .... :I 01 hocol.oa .. surop 10 ~


'\,1. x :Jlal~. Ie.. com. ,.,'-, uwt! ,n _ .:....ir.,.. un :..t1<!n' roeI ..
1eI"~. ~"I.1,nB ..<I J..d milk ....;'1. ,10., ,; . . ~ II ~er:o .... 'M lir1
11..",,, l.."'-",,1",1. 6 I" or loins choco!.!"! ,~mut., ofUII uwd I:: :\, "",.
un:oolu ,Io.n by Lur0p"""'" 10 01 .am~ti,. ,IoITi. OIl ,li"./l"'xl ... t....i1y
Europu.n loraJWi .t hoUr< cL X :01.0,.. wh
., ..,Iable ;, .. ucel1en, for
I&U<:e ...... ,na: Th~ __ n..... >I ..... NU<:ft . . be com
":ely onlroll~ by he-

tocoI.",

.. :i Ie.
ftdc.d. 110.'''1 It :111"''''- ~
\\'h.(e choc We , ,."w,>. no coco.o ao ia:" It .,m .. y ......"... ('Ot'OII
bult.'" millo. .... W ... and 'lIF-r. II 1.. C1. in ,ht' l II~ ~, ... So c; .nnO! be Ie Jh
~ chocol.... ~!I" . . ~,I Ihe ",ilk .... ,ds
In."
y, "V .n"IIYe tu
1.... lM'r u... nd ah ,1,1 .... y." "'" h~ .. " J '0 hie;hrr , .... ,
2()""!. Jt
f.-(; .....
1"_ .....

lul....t

~ I...... loaken (ro


............. ~

II

. .,

~"

""

.. ,
_.,
.., 'm

..

.. "'~nt

II,

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-''''' ,.,
kJh'"
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,.,

......

of

...d .... h

... unt

v" .. ..d "'n.

WMn

..

,of , 111"0 ..t

'.,

''''''.. ,....

."",T

k ....1 inl'

.Jo

"Un

."

:II ...-II pan Ion


'ftod ~ I' tIy

r add

Bo ".'

an~.

~Iai. I

.t . ,T

~u

NlII II

.V lur ~

Oncr.1

be..tlc

... .J )II!.!

..ru <

res. .'" v. '" ill


lei;! 1o he U~, liM: m ..

;.J Ii

h.... hre

Olt ""5

as .,

""I'

?II.

10

n. Tn~

fo ....... borha,

l)ill "'"1

.'

lUM.' II,

h' ....

.,

cool"... u;'" or n........ _


b u. Othffw,w. h

purff" 10 I'f'U II .. h

bi.M .1... loie,...

~; ... hqllid.

f.
m.
100kW ,( ... 10" thou
J"" hal aft k(, :wn n
llin i1Ch Ii w
t. dna",

II

'nand

ple.. llo. ... or

-.wJi~

1IJ

\II '"

hal

odl..d

,II.
J.e, .......
~I.yr.
.an

'e

..... '''8 Mo...: I

-.:I=dL
............." :>e<_p

~. ""." an

M ............

~....

kn.

"",....I."

11

'0

",d

t ... rw:h

Up

.. t

"

,._Ior

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,.

In

'TIlAi

r, ....

'n"....

m,l .. c.o ......

de':!i

hr.. u on.

'"'' Ii '"
Be
\
.I' ~
....
IId.)co:.m
.mourn
af .....e/' , ..... Fro
-.n "'. io. .. bc-Itcr.l>'
!Me pu. II ha. ~
ok

'-....u

........

It

odhu"""nn ~

\'

i .... 'l.ul~

'"" ........ '"


II

bt

\\ '-'II
... f.
JTU coolr.
... 1
wutll'e<l. "Gar .J ., p
... 1.. 1"1
. . . . po ~I( 00
rm

..

'I".

ull 1.... 0

.11 "

... ~ Whpn .i'l 'O,p~


o.auc"

'"

,..",

.... I

tlelab/e p

nl","
~

... "
f.

.enll

_M

.... ,
1I<"t';.

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,..... 1.. ,

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....

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,,11 mo

I .....m

bt,"
'0

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b..k
veilm

0. .....

In"

&1.

It ht f.

,hll II ;U nt) bt' .lIne


f,
ul.if ~ Ie \""fa'",,''' ~ . ,....I,
.... r

.,

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o

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_
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~ ......Ih

IT

I.

-".. ",.

~Iv

In

.... , ... ~

MIK<" II

lai

.l,Kh

0'

STOCKS, GLACES,
AND ESSENCES

A "I"d. . is a flavorful extract made by cooking meat,


fish, or vegetables in watcr or broth. The purpose of
stocks in sauce making is to supply or augment the
nutritive and savory components
that are rcieased by mealS and

fish during cooking. GIlle!!.,


are stocks {hat have been

slo..dy cooked down


(reduced) to a thick syrup.
These arc convenient to

have on hand in
professional kitchens
because they keep ,veil

and can be added to


sauces at the last
minute to give a richer
flavor, a deeper color.

-' ..

,,

...
" ,. ".,
C

~I'" At

'"
,",

..

..

.'....

"'

....,,1

1",

. ..

...

. .h

.11",1, ...

",... It\',I~

,II

....Itat,h.

"''''-''-Af

~ .. ~n.:Il

, a:......
"

, -',I. .

Ju~""

,h... I_,

,~,

01 .. _ ' 1\

' ..!,

"

,I .... he- lih,.


~UI<l
w" n "'boo
.. J,
..c ......" ...ndn.
chd. u ..
""'~
, .... 1. ~u ..... ~m
h., n,.,...... " ..
.......... , '\ r
,...,...u.rk .... h
....
r..1&\10 ot ,".0.. m... ,run
~ IUlUlh
~
.pnVl oa!yrnad .. f: l-......
k
J..h~m .,. :.Ito.,mr or
."""' ....
..... r If
In .-1...... ..'
.ki". nwn......" 'II.
11...'On
Cft, In
"of
11.. ,o~ng or m..... C'OfTI ~ IItl("k-IJUI'\
h iI' 1,1 1If" nl..,11
C ... bo. d.ope ... d
III. rO!.
~ul
II

.,.,

Th

Jri

"

by n

--. .

,"

.....

'

~,

,."

."

,~

..

" "'.
......'.....

......

STOCKS

"r.

:>ct ........ ""1"....11) "Wnl


.,.,.-&1 ..u~ . IIIl
I.

lAI< lUI.

, ..... ,I __

",,,n.

"

....

z.j

Ion

7W d;rr~l.\ rc

~ro

nd ~ "'1If'

,I

"" n..
1:
d
'\Ih ~. pi'<
cool"". YORI.
r ... hM:>P!1 ~ 0 II
:own
'"'ttl 10 makf'
,,",uef' 10 10 an.:-: i. S.
1. on .. n-.u.....T",...
>rani
u. ~ ...... nl -.-..1... ,
.1
p bkma.
.lrwk tIC"
.bco
" ... ~n 01
I Xlnt
:>b""u.
,Vln, 1" Inna' "'vor:-.
poon
,0...,

V"

,ur..

""' , ,
~rv

bur.

P"'f'A"

...

....,'h ..

,.I.

"- I;:-.,

"OUt

.................."
F ...n<:'"",

~I

'll

m .....

rnd~

l\rt.... "
olp ... pa.n'lf
....... r l i ' . , J
_ .... 011 I..~lorroul<'d
h .. I(\.. JIlr ,r
t.od\
..... ..
... d"'.llr ..... " h.. (h .. f
... ,h
pro
\ I. lo.
Ih. I r""P
,r "ffi I
,.hl

....

.,

,,,,

/I.lt..Itd'" I,.",...~ .... I"

,0

n,,- 1i,~,1 d..... ....... h"" .,,,. k. "',,111 .. p""paI"",\.;lrpeud.,,,,,~ ~"<"'n'.


cook,"! .t,vk .".1 I""",, Th.-, ,,,,1 ""II h."" ti> rrly '''' "~I .. n~,,,~ a".j up.r.
t...- ". boJ.o".'" .I". ,,,,,,~,,u on .hr ",oxk ti> den~ II,, b...t 11.".". I...." ,...

"".....:1..., ....
II ....,.,10. .. ,<> be- ,..dll'al1y red",;.-d lor .., .. " ,......'''! or if ,J....bIo, QI ' . . . .
.....,lu-an- ~ I".........,.J ,h.. dwf .." .. ,ieun" ...... "'h~.ht-< ....hti".... "",",".
bIn.nJ ... """""'1 .... ,h.... 1bouqu,", pm'
I>HJ..d. 11'00 moUt) '~bIQ ...
d.lJ..! 10 .h~ p,...l!m,nary _""k or ,f ad,li"un..1 ,~pt.bln anr .dd", a, .....
"'"8~ ,n lh~ "",para,,,,,, of. ,Ioub,", or 'npl .. "i>fl., ,h, ""ur.. II"Ian 'n't.. ....
ft.o[,~ m .l womr '''<lcon~nlr......! . "d.h ~I< ...k ,,~II be 100 -_." You lao)'
lind rUt, .. It. "0<:10. n~a ... <omrklion, "iW ot 1M ~bln or ..... of n..
h~rI"," "t~ bo"",," ,am, iii \00 ..... ni .. ~; d...;,-- .h. amOUnl 01' ....,'........
...., d. nu' nn.vou ......, th....oe"
II linatw.:! ",,,II. UOCn llat. ". 14\"Or ~ ....... ;""1_,"", by .del,... a fraIt
bouqUC1 ",...Il...d ..,m~ rr~ohl.\ ....... led m.r~polll ~Jet.bles. \\","her .. _
Ih,. II nC'CeM&I)' d~~n<I. "" how ,h, M'" k .. ill I" u..d

are

:\.......,.. _.cock wi,h ...IoIloqUlli. II ..... wa .. r .. ..ddnI1o _.,,~ ...


10 ",au.. .... ut.t. J'I"O'l ..... (albumia) ""...!.tv in,o ,he tu~ ~
prvce .... ionr.dw,,1y <...,..w. into ""Y fi .... p.nicln..,d claud . . . . . .
wt- cold liquid i .-d and oIow\y ~~ed. d.. ~ ... coalaiMd _ IM.(.... r.....) rotIJUlac~ ;n Iar.... dum,. And flcwt, ,<> dM' lop. whe.. ..,. _ be
oIc.inuner:i. Wlo.n ooddi", liquid ID an .1o .dy simrneri",1IIOdt: ' D ~ lor
~'..,.,......", ........ e ......, " io cold.
2 Nnw ...... a OIack to boil...... _
and boo-. cook.. th.y ..... . . - -... . .
SIOdr. obouId .. ' - I .....,.. .. ..,.. _
... .

n-

- .... ----'Iiquid.

...... ---- dw. ~ ~. lO:Um ... IGp of . . .d, . . . . ..


. . . . . . U .... __ .......... t'-...a...-_dour-t . . . . . . ....
- ' - -........ n. ......... -.:I<.~ ......... . .
.............. wiII-bo __
~ ....a..-d <_

if_ .

........ -

............

.. - . . . . . .-,.51OID

...

h",mu
,..,

,,,

Th.

~I

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tho Iw

10 .....

....
~

.,_, '".VW&
n :ooI.,...

lb _ _ .. ,... "",...... 01 he

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,.,k

,....

'-1...... ...1,,1.....11
." , .... fin ....

Un

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.. _

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>KOmC'

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of I
...,1 loud ,lor

_k

..... 1"' ...

10

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con,

red......

1It''''

"..,,y Ioout:h
~ ",no", 01",",," ,n,o
mlkh 01)"
I)"

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d,.. ft.""""",,,
..... .....-1 ~I pn ~ prnod It

-ed'K
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",och
~

wp

....
mpl .. tI II. ..,hr.:J.r. to tty ..d.....
...... ,U .... ,hc
""ria: "qu.;m.

xpr

......

and ....urn

"

"nil

con ..... a

x."...

"p&nI'" do
t""""n.e

II' ....1.1
J ,10K!.""
",'
.....uI. f~ 'M
fifli
'0 kIm
.\\ .... ~Ok
PO'.n.li
oj.

.,..

fOO" 'GO

.n... ..-..."".and..,. af"O"'"'


.., '"
_.
......... .. hoch f"'"
II.. ...tCr.bk 10
",""IL ' ,...... y
iiniolwtl
IL.
I)', nOl...l<1 he I;....,
T.d,.,on.al..,..,p"

"'*

.and... ..

",.

.., oil

It,h.,

10......

top oJ

'''.-1)' ....

noI

J 10 .I,

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.... h..
&I

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.n
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f ... ..,..J,um

... .....

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~"h

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oft

and 6O"C

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.....1. n d.o",u ci ~
of ....... _
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P 61
, qu,o ... or
10? li'",1 .t aork
~ ......... .-onu
lid.... ".. "f"""I WI hhu' dar
... hboo<\)
ookd by ~o.;o 'Il!
nO'. m.h .. .., he both>
III II..
k
;1
.,. n ' ..... '''tI

01'.

- . . 8ROWN CHICKEN STOCK

JI, ....h '" L !>..n .... Iw..

po:'< ...

j b~f...

.. ,-..-I"I ....h
. e k mo

I'

wholo

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oJ

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h "hlCkron"
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nm ..r: lIU'" far d
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("fill'
two
I. Ii
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lI>. ... ,i,)
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remo re an
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f"'" b~ n- i" WICk . two, e. b.ck . ....J IWo
hichto II..
h~ "hi,:k.." c ~_I I>
la .. { i f f " ,
~

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ports and C _ 5 ., .. r II
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l "",n

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of
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It

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min

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'<'ry III

h .-.....len ....-. . .ad

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rn . ..nJ
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!.,ft.n.... " ...I ~b..d ... C_hch
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~
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~I\ hop"
IOn. c :-:on r.
PL.c tI chopp'" "'ft1,,1 ... nd "lC' t.ou ~rl ,"am.
q.an(l'\.r'
'''I(~p "".J ('""rr hem ... icl
hick" :..an:
'Ifl,>~.
A.
.. , IU
,h.. Ny P I.e..
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,hou l .kr..
,I- 1'IoaI,., II

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......,,.. whit. Irork "",,,

&:

f.., iI'

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~....ulb.._ ... fal
Jm
110": Iv 1m ...." ,,, $lock or J h n.

I ~ "!l'ned an

0..1.

min'"

h.. ume

a~'

..... ""oca "'


- - - BROWN BEEF" STOCK

o.p
1"'"

'"

onho:d. ' ........ I'or U


hem
J , : _ ..
~ lo'~ Imu ...
TI

I._noo..l,
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r.

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h~.v ,... ,I- "...hl.v .....1 ......nI)' I....
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11

PI b J"'"SI"I OC .... &n"O"O rnd ,Iw _


....;... hoIh thumbo. Usual
"rmar-ro"WI .. :kOUlin .. ~nc::"'i
;
&I::.J>tFlCOU ....
,I... IOM1I >0:1. cur ,he
. aw.. y n;. . I e ' - ..nd -.do" _ on
..... SId .,.;.1. a~ I' ~.I :IOI'Or away.o frft II mal"toW. fl.e mar
_ an be- ~ "' d. relr~r... ' .n .. b ru. 01 heavily ... it,..1 Walr,
... hi, h AlIO rt'tROVO ~ .. ks ,.,f blood) lI' lrou-n !.I' 'il n...- :eo.! f, p1I~ ..
r.lVl lilli ,. 'arnuure..... d ,h,I,~f', It you .Iv, no n-l ror II nlilrrow,
11 un he l..t, ,h"bo""- .,.I"m,hr"Olkc.,.r"f, khec ....... ,ft:; &l"n
"'ill", :I~r.. ar.l' U,~
&l"J"du "ilalaurro -;di"ltl
a.
'nm "
away. Can..."lIy -.I Iw "",,,,I
.i.ank
h -as 'il hey
_com,..
.. lry (ad"',.,..... hr '" no. bn""" p~riy).
'II..... ~
(I:' ,ltili.
I~
1Il11:ron,
"'-ah~\'Vpot
.,-uc
...,,.. GUllly brown he ...... n ... n nd. die' ;rc a :\, ~ P 1,,'1 h"
pi.eo;o ofolwll.n hroila: ilia
hiskn-,," MlII'mr ahln~".
and will
II
~
~ brown.he !Mill.
5. "1o.ilr Ii
' is broo.'ni, ' :>&IWly rh;...
:>n5 (~:'\OI. at .....
a",,1 l..trv The ~..... blrs n.. rd r:
be- ,_Iood if 'My ..... 11 m>.,r ~.

"'.1"

(I"

.....1

A,r'''r ,hr mr,,' ha. toten b"U


.10" I h Iltl~ .. ,~mo' e i. &I .1 pour uti ,h..
I.e aure lru., I~ ar_h__
<'OOhd
L.ar. ully ~' ' .... h
1111 ha ..... J<. )I L:'hrr
"
XI'If<"
..... ~
>I
he pan .

..... '".or
J><>t

I.....

';1,1
t ...

rn oft

i>OI
' . hottom
~ ,...... Ial arK!

.I

"'n II
f\Ur doe pru .. h-hecupo

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I.

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n..

d.

.nd!l.o ... ~

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I. . .I.' ,I
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"''''<\old, bo...
~"" . . . . ,,, . . . . . . "II.hAI
1' lO d ...
In
Sk
11 I
h "P"n,1
If ......11 do ~'''',
....
lI:IIk
~I"bhou .... '
" .. "S .... r:1IOI<lI ... ,n, "~r h~r. __ ho .. r_

"..

In.

.."..,1

f" ..........red

,.,d"

(;

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Hot. In ~
" , III

In

0"1

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n"

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m.ay 10

an I ...

Ir-..d In II

"tOi.......w ..

all :ro

f .. C'O'"

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.~.

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'10

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dw .....

'a'"

h......y

ned
'1' ..

bono...dcq

I ""'"
COllin

.. ty bn

n...

---- BROWN BEEF- BONE STOCK FOR MEAT GLACE


G'(~

J.. / ia"J.,

-. ...., ..
, "'!Ii

..

'"

,.

._, ..... "'m ..'.,.\"u


"'" ,r.
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~

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h.h .....

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".... .,.,

I J., ....... _'hr"..... ''',~,OI 1:.;(re)


!>p., ..1 ' .... a~.a,l. ,n. _ ' ... 1 , ... ,.h ,h..... I.I"TVt ...
"nc

0<1_ &ndlarl;"

',1\,,.. .....1 ........,,"',.., '<on, "me ,,' IIwe. u",,1 "rl1

I I.",,,

,n. ,',

f,"-no.j....:

1 Pu' II,,' ,."".",,,. P'"


1""" (I~ 10,..,) ltod,poI _.,,1 "OYer ... ~ . .
"""..,1..... J ......... hI .... Pn"r ",I U\v
md""nll on ' .... '_""""
I~ ,he ,Gad'.., , ....... IIh 1'01 CU~ It ,0 '0 SOOmillil,o"-)<!l,'-o-a
.... " ...,,1 pour "' ... ,he- o~,.,I \01,1 ,lor ~n.,m,"5 red ..... n..
.. ';c""l.v """"',...1"...; 1.0<1 ......,W,'"
n..."i...! ... k...,p ' .. O~1&iIo ....
rrcd; ,I",,, nil "n., I." .nd
6 Str.m on'''. "1..,, po, "",I ..... 1", ,. I... 1.;,.11. ('001 VI,I
iF! lilt.... ..,..,n'h"l... n.""1o.

".,,1..

., ....

w,,'<'< ..

"00'

&&Inr...,

___ VEAL STOCK


" .... IIOCI. ,~ ... ua-Iknl hue lor boch while .....1 bnrwn .....cea ' - - . _
... btle t1.ovor ,h.u m....... II e.pNw~ .aJ.pt.bI. '0. ~ "',........

",~p.

110... Veal otoo:k-bo.h """itO' .",1 b ........ _ ....... IIw buic ....n. ....
proIn.ton.l ..i.d.... duo", 'M n,,,""n.h and ,Mo ,..., twe!l.....a ~
1Je.-.... of iq ClIpcn.e. iI: ItA. I.~I.\ t....-n nrp/.rfll wilh bed lIod d.d.

lIock, or lIocb.....l.. "i.h ","I 1.0.......In""


no,.. i~;"n.. helow <.... 1... u...J lor .."h..r whi~ or brown vuJ
.nilW proccdunr i. lor wh .... .cock with ,..., V.ria,1On for brown .cod ........
.... ' no,.. .cock Uln .. portion of waI .hank If preparinr whoc. . . . . . .
bonn ......... ,..., ~ ~Id
be blanched _ p&.ce.I 1ft .. pal of caW
- bnou,pl to .. ~-I"" dl'&l.....J and onwd bd"orr bft..- _
...
.... _It. If Ih.. Rep ipan.I. llae .cock wiD be doudy and....,. ......
- t . danl'-I_lfad.. ....... blan.-hin, un~ II .....
... quaMII)' of veallo.nuddebonnro 5 ~ (2.5 k......

Mock:"

ronc

---,-----....

,h" '''Ir ......;., ,.,~, p ,h" ..... "..

I. \"." (1-4 It ) oclo.poo


I,h .. bouq "'.""L~_u!db-o_.'hhon.,.
ItO II
no' "'"
he top.. n .............111. .... i..... ,
5 l"
he
.....li .. nhl ....,h II c.... l... "' ..,:I
.,....
C'I>OM

-4
..... (](
).ha
.... ,op , ........,.
:>onn.
IJrinf" ,.,., ... oJoc
(II. .. 01 ",10:1 ..... ~ 1.-.,., 4!
_ .... )
SI"m o11a' ~ f ..... ' fa'. a.r d ..
.hal 11.....
,I. .1.111
<.:.:.ok ho.. k
a"
~Iow ..... m.. r for to 1.0 .....OA.
i ...... "r:o ~ "'1.1''''
am' .. "'in.h....oxk.lirulln Ch.cooo...,duno..
hn"
ti ch, ...... If. ~rf;,..;d.v
I "I
to.. ..... necl h,rd
"
I'""",' h... ~loll

"n II ,.,,,,.I>I.,.a.

\\"1

....J..

cl........

8ro .. n \"".1 \.ock

""1" ,..,

Pit'n'. f.......h, .. ruilloxk, U~ .I-e b


.nd , .....
'C)~. Turn ,I e
.1 ' - . and "I".....b fTOll ,m",o 'UIU!
un,J L ..... ..-..I.v ~, ..., ~ b
Of.,,:>f.he ,~.., .." or ' ....
,k,...... b .... 0 the (I< 01, ... 'OAIoIinc pan. T.... .I" II
cred' "'.. I
flDCkpotandad. h .. ho ,ul."',arnl J..pn h.. rout ".pan.,.i,I .... \\
.II M ,1.1":'" .. _ .Ii... ~ . .drI he dql'Ul/II
.. ><I to 1M' incnd;..".. ,,, Iw
\',
01
k ..... t. ............. flock
.,.. ,1;"

it>. <tOO"F (,

....... MODERN VEAL OEM I-GLACE


rm ......,$<"ol,h....OII. I", ..
II .... de
h meal an. pprnll

,I >

"

m' ,

... b...-&al. which


......id mu.,ud ... _

_do

1101~

"1"

....

h.. le&al Xpr ....,_ ~I .... ~ .nd ... rvo ........


.. Iml.. plClI o. Ir
J.!. tom.&l
1
AI 81m
)I'" 12 h
n
st ~ :>f
PI~

""'",um of ..vo .....1 pt."

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.,.

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"d
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r.. II"

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liler) ~

nl<>.I-l. I
"UI'Y COfUI'"

...

____ CHiCKEN OEM I- GLACE

."

..... ,..

..

..,

II Ii

_ _ FISH STOCK

~ Morl...

.... ..11\ pro

_lllou
I.
~

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"
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IITIC"'

~I ~d

lily y .... "

booa:'..

nr

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Jmo.r
...U<".... I, ~M
fish ~ ... k .f :>0'
",lIn.

y.ar 1>0; n n<


... \\"1:
f..h lido
are
J"f'O .b'
hand h Miih I"'~
II."
r II fo.h. lill..l<'d II \,.,

-:me.

'''row .""''''

-I.

100.

.........

,.... ....... '\

....

h.' 11

,,-

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.01

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h
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100 "

01

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Thr I"'" .01 f ..h.
:.. h.",rmkaa. wit! ...
~
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\.v toclo
Ivac<
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h"ukl br.. ,I hr... ,1.1,)" it .....l~.
kllndlll..,br

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Not,,: I n ciJH' '0' ,''' oCI k ..


-\ do......, iaI M( .. conl.a.t
not
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VEGETABLE STOCK
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LIAISONS:
AN OVERVIEW

A Il~li.mll is an ingredient used La thicken liquids.

transrorming the liquids inlo sauces. Until recently it was


often consisrency alone thar distinguished a sauce rrom a
broth; poaching liquids. stocks. and other
Oavorfulliquids became sauces as soon
as they were thickened, usually with
starch. Today. the dirlerence between
a sauce and a broth is less clear.
especially in contemporar:v kitchens.

where unbound but intensely

flavored liquids are served with


meatS, Jish, and \egetable::;.

Sauces aloe distinguished from


b"olhs and soups not only
because they arc thicker
but because they arc more

intensely Ilavorcd. Liaisons


were used in ancient and

medieval cooking as thickeners so

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IuFr p.i>"IH)
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r v ,,"am. \1
01 "" acn:IlI j

"

oo.J .h",,,... ;1

II'"''

.h

,.fd

,,'

,.

h.h
~.

k,....

""

~"
~

URT-FINISHED FISH SAUCE

., ... ...

..... <0 G

"

~.

I \.kl,lwu",'
\\'h .. k,

h..... ",1Il~... ~""~" ~t". "u"..r


..... ",m,,", n
,I
..
'"'" ~1Nl.n.pwfer.. hb

on"

.,'
MM ... 1,

,I"

:.oil

nJt .. ,

_ni ......
HOlt: llw
baM .... v be- be...
.,..;/leI ,.A ':"><k, ... hi .. ..;.
IK'e

<';"v,'" .. ith

f .hioi .. ,
f

F r ... h Ch ..... .

M._

)(' oM'<! ~ h,d.. ....0' ... ,nod ~ouIh fir Iw:-d w.11 I.e......
.... or
fr
.. wei"
ay .. .\"OJ"", I n ..
,.,.., -.;iJ. l:non f'1,mp ut. h.... Y"8vn r n'M'al 'v,,""
"I

" ""h rhe.-........('tIed 10 .. " 1...... "~


ok (\ f.... \n.. ..,f .... d ......

v....vln'vr

Ion h tw....

mil
U.u~

I IrQ. i.J
" .n
U.
I,,", ,h~...
m.. h.u a

.b.J..r 0 ....... hI

III

...... VEAL BL.ANQUETTE WI TH FRESH CHEESE


"MtitiocW
~

It

on

II

s..

~f'

D.,m-M f~
M)X*
~>.:

OM

II, ~.J
:10\1.:

xk "
J)

,,'
~

'"' I
....

~ In,1,
.. ~ . . . . ,,>AI
&llliIoIld ... ,..,...
ii
nron' ~PO"J)~

ou"h
n:>IU ,",11("
.. ~hi ,~,,:I mo"" r :loc-.alI.1 .,\dHIISh II
h ,I rtf
"'WI! >r h.... ,
~ .1.
IIt",,"1f po.>rh
I
I. Ih ....
, .......
anabo".,f
h'
....... h .. ' I .. n

-r.......

IS

us

II

\1

~.

wav-. - 13l

e.....

r ...h, ..... h,IUid

m~r

~ .. .

.",iAJd ,I

\\ '"I~ u,",nd II AI

p",-~ h~ fn h cJo..H ... ,n. hInK

,n ,1 hocp<>" "'''''
" OC M _ _ ' ......
\\ 1'\ F 1. 1-: 1-: S
F,,",,"h .... I~ .".......;0...11 .... Iet' , .. -''41 II

_ I" ...... AI ,h. bon_ ci "'"


.. .. Ih... krn~r I., oe<l Win.....CQ.. Rd ..bte
0.1,
d"r,..,J, 1<> a,k ,I,
" ,,.. 1101'"1'11''''' 1M", t YUM)'.ard ....... n
.. .,,,II..-IIil.. nJXnm.n, 10
.k "
,abJ...poon. of 11 _ '1. 'nlG ...'be.
bo
I, .....
rec\wm ....., :..t __ I_ l rom p Jt ~",r_ .. t...

,~.

..to .......

n_

,n kHpl"ll

t~w

11 .1: BurJ"

.... 'r.d, .on.

COR .\I
(,....J .. ..,.,

, ... ~(rw

..... ",,"'Y n con

01 ..

n!1)

A' M

wrab

fm..ol ..,bf

....vort..

. . __ m.n

A ..
It'knm.

,n 'Of &nd lICallop

........ at :N\f M _
popu1a~
..
riethenl in .-l l'DC<!UC ... h
.u ml.:
bunu aDd " ........
d mIX" " hm",h ~ drum .,.H_ TI
JIll"." at 1M! <t bitIo",
.. f
It.von,,1 fin h l....bMn coral '" u
",' for lim 'Illf
I.Kfl,n M
_
(Oft 5pf wJ t)f"I &a; I' ~ ,.M. for F,sh s.", ~ ...... -&,

So. ,,'

DRI:.\))
011 of ""'.

"'" ,. ....

For

I/on."'ft'L.,

cb.

lta.,k ......

r .. ral

.......

at..,

..-.
.."""

oaucetI

h..

ad

II n:k

I/o

""".IICO -...u.c. no

at

:I ~

,,..J,.

.. ,.n

'\Ct.... "....,

'H'nl"~hII)'.t.,'Nd""
I; id h ... dllI_ ..,do;
lou .... ~ ,hat ,.... E... ~ .h ......

.nd C'OOIr..

r:..... nd ..lKfto"

... ......,... <>f , ..", Fn-' h

.. ,~.q...or.""''It.,- ..UCC'i:ood.... nd ....... '


....

.,!.r,... ... ,.,

nU

lbe
' ..y",,,>t'Cj''''''nl ... ,,,.,._r~,I,, k."l"iwllh!.,,...l' .... ''''
,....,.' "Irun".',," ,,,,,. The " .4""~'"
,1I.,to.!,.J."..,f<"maJ,.,.,
"h ......... _ . . ,......"...,.., '" '0 Ii, r ...... h" 1"",1. ,.I.~ ...
.... ~
Br.,.d._.rJ,
I", huI,notoIC-1
Ila...... .....,.... Bn 1 ....... , ........ . . - to.,..,. ",' ,"
"tun' '\;a.r,

\,.,.... .... ' at' . ." ' "


~d '!Jruo.kn mba.

.-;p..n.. ~
134

'A

.. l1li

,ha, -W.. con.....

",.

M , ...... Iwo

'_,~

,.,l ....... d.

"".'n._I".... , .. ~" '11_


n.1 ,n "'1"1.,.,.1,
ry t

'r.

'J"

J,n .....

,- '011._

"'.

.....

,I

It~

....1 -'..

..

""I

II

,.,.ok. h" I

.1

Non .. 0 hI' n
h"cI" ;>0.... 1..

'"

on

...

~W, ..........

NU ., "

lo.,. for.nd

. . . " ... II

..II h

......"

. - . SAUCE ROUILLE

u. ... ...... '0", I . . . .n J .... """""'par


.. 1":noeI
Judi. ,.,."ilJ.,.ba.i... It ... ~ .... '.k...' ,r. .M ...... p , ,
p...AI
lab
.... dlino ...n..!
,.I
_hb J.

...111
"'po.

....

_duff

'"

..

-,

' ...

"

.ow
~
........ 1ftOI'tM.nd

1 .. or\. Ihto
2Sa.~,
..,hlt

~ add

re:"

r.,..rI

II.

"~

ill

II

..dnM~O"Com
'Ul .. n

iI\

' ....11

IW'

pesll., \\o~ M

:Ji .... )lJ

I.

JIll ... "

"

...

" 0'

rot.,

. ....
"

,h .
... h..n :>r<'potnnr

k .... S. Cr. ('iii It ... non 1)""11,, ... ,

"
~ ..J.t (..,.,1 ...... Gn rvJ
11
he .,..".

I b ... J

".

1J5

Po,..,y J".n~. (il 'rHi !~Ihl'r gt~r MITron. ;and he;htlv


'74.0 .t', I I'un rh:e 'OI"IUl'"C ~Hlh V111e;a~ ancl bod

t ... It'd

~.,j

p",,"" .\~,,'r. (~I ,nd to(ll1-.e-r Sln,t"r .nd Jark to;u.tt"d hr .. ~ ,.,th .. IftOr1M

...nd pntJC' Thm the- m, lure- .... Ith m<",.1or ilnd ve-'fUl, ... and boil

WHITE SAUCES FOR


MEAT AND VEGETABLES

TraditionaJ white sauces are prepared with milk or

white siock, thickened with white roux and finished


with cream, egg yolks. or butter. In today's kitchens.

sauce bechamel-essentially milk thickened with rouxis often replaced with reduced cream. Sauce veloutc is
identical to sauce bechamel except that the milk is replaced with while stock. \Vhen sauce veloute is enriched
with cream, it becomes a s;auce supreme; when finished
with egg yolks. it becomes a sauce

allemande. Today, veJouu!


sauces arc often replaced
with butter-enriched sauces
or reduced-cream sauces,

ClassiC french White Sauces


Wh"" Rnux
\Vl",,, Sh>d

1;'/,'<111

Onion Pum

C.... a'n

Chou...

c".,

f
_'10m.....

SouhM

-.

Egg

C~.

Yol~,

f
f
Supreme .-\ll"""",d..
f
.\1"". ct"
f
Jvoi~

Pepper.

A1b!f~....

',-

TQlna."".

Crus, ..,un Olln"r


f
-.
:"<;mtu.a

Whi.c Wine

Cardinal

Ilerbo

A"ro'e

Bonnd;'.'"

Chi"=,,

f
/...emon
f

\\",n ..

.\\whroom.

f
Champ'!"",,

Po"I..!! ..

SAUCE BECIiA;\lEL

Y
f

'(
Cur'1'

Tnrr~on

P.prilr..

f
Curry

f
"'.mio n

Hongroo.e

f
On,o"
f

R"genc'" \'iU"tI''''''M:

sh.l..

\...It.. '"""J'""

...

".,....

..........

t .....

~Ip""""". h.'''pd .I",.


t.. ,A, .......... I,.,. 1",10- ~'ion ,,. " ... 1, ....
-.I ." ""Iou." ......... ", '.' I ... I. t.e""y, ,....;"" ". IIdd..t
'k ,lIy . "" .. ,',"". bkh.. ....J

II
00TJe

! '.

:c

~II..! ..UN' .. ........ '


..... ...,.p.... an,l_ '".1. ,.., ,~cr" .,. MI, ..... h.arncl

prbC.")", ... h,,k .

...'" ""lL w"l, ... 1.tI~ ""'~ . 1 <"<101.."I ' .... rnilrf"",1one: r''''''ll. '0.1,"""" ..
'..0.1" So,,,,, ......:;.pc "f~"" ""ion (roth,. hffl ..'ea .....1 ," \>gnu ~"d

.... :

... ol',';nkl...! wllh tl" .. r ,,. I.... "" ... In ,n'~lr..!"...rt 01 ............. '" ,,"h w ...... 'Of
IarJ" ~ I ,,1 wllh .. fi ........nod .. rnn,,n:d with Ih~ ,,,,11.) p .... t 01 b.oy

. :1 .. 'In) pMh <Jf nu""re;: :-.;" ........ ', 1, _,n, ~'f'" of,rn '-It" lr.
:o-c ". ,.....P"'~. ".." .,,,,1 w..I .. , "'''pon."".04 '~n>U.O; l>ftc,,.... ~' ..I
... h ..ill.. or. ,,,,,,Iun' ,,( ""Ik .nd 51OCk.
" .... ,-bellO; ""'1""" ,...... <Ilp!rtl fo, .... of bI. h.",,~1 "",,.. n t..,1 ...... ) '"
01 cornpl ....,'.Y.-..d ..1.1",,,,,,,,1 Ito ....... ""Ill, ....", ,....J. m,,,,,poUc. "nion. .or ' ..... rr
""",,' . J .i'I.~,I.Iarr,ly"" ~um'non ... nw 1""'''''''''1 uoed Iur a ... ",,,n ol
IrrIu !..."!\y ''''4>d. h. b, 11.. VOft<I",,1> 0"""''' hu, . I'rw Inmmi"f.lrom., ured
.... ,:ooI<rd.,-r,h II" rollX ""iU "'ork *111&1,,11, .\1,,, h of ,he appatl uf ..
btchamel ",oeh. pa~.,.io.,<, ...lh from ,1.1..,* "I It......, ~nd. lilt.. ~ rnt ,n "." ,,""
... a"" ,,:e ""pan... on .. ,&II'''' " pn>"'Od... ~ lta. Ittln,. ft>t' .he n.,,,, d ... ''':,~
1 "", ,f", ",h.., '''~''''!''''LI',

.0,.. . .

,,<.

SAUCE

etc HAMEL

lh, ."""J'" "I '''''' I"" /li .... n ......,.,nl of m,11. d"pentb on 11>.. u ... "I
lh .. l '.n""n,. u,,.j .. ,Iu: b.w Ihi,k ......
tradiltocwl ..... m~ recil'":;oj: for as mtICh .. 8 """,_ 1250 " ...... , of n.>WI P"' qUean (I" .... ' of

r."

"",,,,,,,"

w.h.atntl.t..d

-r-

u ... appn .. ,mal.. ly:t """"" (60 fR'M)

'1.--0 (1.'<:1') "I milk1"hc toll.,.. '''I ......-ip:pn:tpno.lt f..........,...M.. valli..

I'""'uc"" .....aiumlhKk .......".

Brine d...... ilk 10" lim-.- III a 2..,.n (2 lir)"""'" Wl.;.ir.


,,_ lu ~ to J>rn"ft>1 a oIUn from fi,nn."I on II....rfac,. ( - ~)
2, In 1--..1 2-quan (2 1" .... ) ~ ....,Iy nwh dill bucur ..... add
11ou. Sri. lbe b,.tte-r ....d n..u.-tAo", heM ..... aboul 2

ow.

till'" n...... h.. I,a..-. - . y - I I ~ r..... ..... '-' for


30 _ ..... I0.....".tipdy

'1

u, ,

... "",,11

, "'

hn

4.

ba<"II to .... ......-e ha~"

(~d

~n

"",,~"" ..U<"rJ""..,haI-

d _

........ Roo ..... I


d

,.

,I"""

~-.

h~n._('n.......

.....

~.k,"

Ion ..... " Y 0


"I Ih~ ......e. $\I1~. mal,"1
)L""kthr
"lylor~J" u .... ,. h,
loJl,1.
.k. 11 'If II ,... ,,"
.url
II '... lunol "I.." al... :n "'" ~ r\II
.rv:
,M :tomu,l"',..... no d
... '.~1""""''''
,.I.

M ........... from." "8'


oearch)' _ "- ....... n

"" .....1

) \\her
..

!O

.,1,,1..

u .... ncJ.

at:

..

-001",.

;oR

ch .. l~ ,I" n

I'IGI.: S.

milk aila'

O\... r

JC.

h.. ~.
IWc"--l

Tn .. ok. lrofft 10 m. I m In

~r

'" wdl. of

pan O\rr .1'

.~

drt- "" on ".1 -

."._1 ~

-b.:

(I

---

1<1 ...,
~ft'., ,\ in-...l pour 0&.:
h..I ..,... Ime ;all:: .. puI
br
~nl I..
and.k,f: n; !'or.

Ii ... brin,lh .. m

lor""

10 ....... 11uI . . un' YlIOt'1 1IoIy 10

IS

M ,.,..... ", " ....


I.~wh,d. ~nt&ll' bI... ,.;..j &I , \ " "k<1 ",,_lid
h. ,
ctme, I aJ.
'1"1'': .........
lr
hnl..t.ln, SA
fUl'
.IJ
II ..... 1M
an. n<ell .. "1 for phlll.
~~&I'
01
t'I ut I :lay
..

r.

tl&Joo

IOU

of...

~)

(J>aF

\ ...... .1/_.11

~I .....1' .. ,,"..ally .. _I as he b;u- (h.... ,1>\111


" .JW<II",. .
lin.,;J ,h.....
"d M>' ,~. ""..k"\lm
...11.... ..., arl.1.. 1 1o rh .urf~
.... II Ie
.' ""
.. v
Sa
M a) m..o.khv.dc! "". eJd'l...... to .... <~bkh ... ..I1k

S.
\\

IF:

a'"

n.........

~.1..

onl) .,d.
pH

h,.

,.. :NIl
....''''\ (

I P~ L

:>-~rl!""" I.
,.... Encl,.h'

rlwcM=-

be-

In"l
......

hall .......: . P ..uWOI

w-

-./0 .. UU~r

\,

j.r

..

b,
I'"
..,. h
.... Ch, ';" .n,1 \ ro" ' ' l
ot 'hr nm..".. .... I,an,\
",,-I>fell tl ....... U.""V' 1",,10 .... ,.-10. '
+.rn.r .or
"po ;1 ....1 :.0 '" .... , .... ." bu' I... "to I ... '
II.
rio.::
" ~"Oitl to...
lw
~,..},'"
T ~,
_II and
Sekel
.. R "'1..1, 1 <;:

140

.~

..

___ SAUCE VElOUT~


OUART (' UrrR!

r!HD .

.... ' s

,~""

",Ul'<
,,~

dlC~en.

>"

5 CU,,",

20unf;es

ru,

'''fl

6t

9''''

6' m hliletl

I. Brillg the ,tock !O II. .immtr in ;, 2oq uar,. (2 liter) sauce I>!!.", Whi"" it ftorn
time 10 tim~ to prev""l a ~kln from form,ng on it. 811.t.,ec

I" a second 2_quan (2 lir~r) ";,"cepan. genl[1' meh th~ I,Ul!~r' anJ ilddrh,
,he 6utler and lIour over TrleeJ.um heat lor about 2 minutt .. 'Ill.
ril the noor has a f.le;"""n,. lOiI"t.V "",ell. R.. mov~ from ,h~ h~~( for &1...
1
30 ,,",,ond. ro co<>l ,Iighd.l'
/luu . Slir

.1. Whi>k rhe $imm~ring Mock inlo the rou", Return (he !<IU'~ 10 ,h~ It"",
And bring ir back ro a simmer .... hiJ, "'hi"king.
-I. On"" Ih~ !.auce has relurn"d to a 10\\ ,immer. tum dO\"n 11., h<'al

a,.;

",o"C 11... sau""pan $0 rhal onl.l' on...ide is OVe, rhe Ilame, (Th .. ,,,11_

kinlo fonn on only on,' .id, 01 rh" saun,. surface. making i( ~"".I '0
,kim.) Cook th .. saUce gendy for I hour while skimming on the .lin tfw
form. on iL~ SUrl~,C", II i. also a good idea 10 (J('ca.;onaily rub ~r(l"nd Ih.
botu)m and ,'orn,,!'! or th ...

"h"u' ",,~.,"inl, OI11il "pproxi'na,.lv I 'Iuan II lu~,) rem .. i.... Whi.~ ~ Oun,-u
j 116 gr,,,,,') "f cold bune. into .he "",-e, Yield: I '1uan (I li'er).
;\",,,-~ ,hal ,hi. sauce i. r~<luced ,diu ,I." addi';on of eggyol~ . s...u(e. COn.
,~"''''. egg y"lk~ ~an !)" boiled, l>ro,i,l"..J Ihey ~o,,"'in a fairly larS" amoun' nl
l1"uf. ",h,eh ,'ah,hes ',hem (~lt)' ""'.un ,. anolher example 01 ,hi. principle)
\\'hen U--dn.L.U"8 'rad"'onaJ ... u~~ re<ll"'. ~on'aining nour in'" nourl ... Ver .
"",", ,he ~gg yolks shc",ld be ad, led onl,v '" th, end; ,he w,uce .hnuld nO! be
~II,,,,,,,IIO boil
M"dc,n Tcchn;que~ for V"loul'" Saue,n
In "Kia,"" kilChens, ,radi,ion .. 1 veiouu'" '''Uce all~mandc. sauce 8Uprem~, and
,hrir deri'~ti"el ha,-" be"" largel,\' rel'lared b.I' ...xluced slock. fini~hed w;,h
h.a,~- cr.am, bun" . and OCCaSi()n~II.1' egg yolk.... The HavOfll u<oed in 'heoe
classic F~nch de.
modem.M.... le sauces oftcn rely on ,h" 'lame ingrediM!~ all
ri,-~,i,-" ""ucl!$, bu, becau"" no flour ill u"",-1. the ""uco,. are lef, comparanve!..,.
,hin or.", reduced 10 ,he appropria,,, con.i..en".v

,I."

___ BUTTER - ENRICHED WHITE SAUCES


Th ~ ""uct'3 are I'n:opared by lini.hing reduced whi'e 5lock, .omelim~. com
bined ",ith aroma.ic ingredienl>l au~h au wine 01' herhs. wi,h butler. They h,lVe
" .no'" inlcn~~ navor and an even ,nOI'e \'~lvel,Y '~x'ur~ ,hlln 'r&di,ional flour
,hi~kened \'elout~s. They are, h"w~\'cr, extremely rich and require e"trem~l."
e"ntentrated s'ock.
The "ock u.ed ,hould be approximately six times"" concenlrll,ed Il$ a simple '1<x'k. The coneo:ntrllted stock can be prepared b.v reducin! .imple ,I""k
d""'n '0 one.,ixth if> original \olum~. b.l- making fre.h .tock wi,h an aln:oad...
p"'l'ared ,t<><:k (.i.~ 'lml!$), or b~' u.ing a c"mbina,;on of both methods-for
"~mpl<", rcdu~i"g uouble "ock b.v ,wo-third The amouo' of bUller needed '0
ri"r ,he ""uee ,h" desired eonsi"en~.v dcpend. on ,he water co,"en! of th bU!
tel': the lower ,he ....-ater con'ent. ,hc Ie ... hUller is needed
thichn th
-QI\"tntra,ed ~'O(:k. French hutler, be,-au ..: of its low wa'cr CO!l,en', work, e'[>Cu~lIy "-ell in bUller-enrirheel ...,u,'es,
When p"cp"ring l",,,er.cnrichcd ""'U\.~~, (he .\lock .hould he ,."du,-td unl;!
it h~ tlw "on,i,tencv de.ired ror ,he lini,he'! .... ucc. Once ,he ,",,,It .. r I~ added.
II,. "'U"e .... ill h. ",";cwh.. , ,hi,-k .",1 <'an he ,h;nn~d b,' adding addi,i"""I.,O<'k .
.. hi,-j, '.I'",r~",bl ... o 'hich"'ng .h. Mo<k "nee ,h~ b"l\~r has fx.en "dd~d
Be. ~u"" '!,i....u"" i~ '-Om",,'h.., "n".. bk ".h.'uld no, b<" k~I-" hOI ,," mor~
""
h<M.!r DC "'-0 belore ~.--ving, F"r Ihi. rc...."n. tho foll""'i..,;-"" 'I." prn_
<I". "'\y 1 u"", (500 milli!i"")

'0

..

OIl -

"

.... ot

hoi. .

If:

~ C

Y Sl "\II'.

.h~ bull

..... ,.,.. nc:y.

:I whit... Inlo h~ h.,. u, ....


:.ooL JJow". ,.,;1 for \y
"I....
r 1"," l...,iI ,. '" II

Inl,

II, f ..........
kl)' '0
lem,r' ....y "iI"W

.I"

..,.......ahl~

.h~cn, Ir. more 'r""I"e "iI' ~

Ie

TI

ala.

...' ~p.an

.. j>OI

"r

Iie""" . . .. . ,

whiM

>do
.. _

'''ok.. ;on J. I, ..... d.t


.......... ".nbeJ. .... T. foranhou.",,,,,
do,
JI ....,
C/,,.-I..n., nIIpt'f'iO, Te
,he
od
~"",

m,nu." pn

_ _ WHITE SAUCES BASED ON REOUCED CREAM

In

LI<:.'

~nod.adn.
I un'~
aI

,..,ted ... 1 .....

h.o,..,

;!

.., ...

ha",w..

>nIl' .... 'y ypl.: !d

,I lu ... h..
Srause
';~II >tI.1' :t..... IOn SI....J.c
- ..
...... ...... '" ..... .., in- ..,1)'
\"Uffll .1 .. II
... x-,hoch"" P'"
_ill di +,.
u.... no
"'rum_ hKI.~.,...I"1K
.r, .. mount uf oIod; ""'I" '0'<1
I." II
.oded ..... I,,~ .. h~,
I'n'h.
rull n '"
,... Jlu .. ~
n~c,
... "" ..
:ott

.Iota

,hey.....,

.h,

0"" '" .... IInins

-J

h,a

of

....

hi!"'.,

br."".

J.( .. u~

.. Iou,~)

-",.

pc-

h..

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BROWN

SAUCES

The methods used to make brown sauces have been

e\'olving fOI- centur-ies, and chefs still battle over ingredients For stock and which thickeners. if any. should be
used. Brown sauce methods "';ere standardized by Es-

cofTier in 1902 and remained almost unchanged until


the 19605, when chefs began to eliminate 110ur-

thickened dcmi-glace and to thicken


their sauces wilh butter. In the last

ten years. more and more chefs


have been experimenting

..vith using no thickener


ill

aJl, serving meats

with navorrul bouillon


iMtcad. Untillhc seventcenth centur:v, most
brown sauce!; ror meat
were derived from the na l ural cooking juices of roasted
<lnci braised meals.

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.... [SCOFfIER ' S DEMIGLACE AND SAUCE ESPAGNOlE

t:oo>fI.... :Ioom.-

Il

WI. ,..,pe.

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p-.noior ,..ken

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e:ort.rm .. I mil ",I perfeo ':lOll. S-i. .. ....,.... e

y rrdu~"t'<I brown dock HI'''''''''' ,ou" :mJ I"m" .ontal)H


onw,<>
, it-- The ,om..",... gi~ .. J .... I~r "lor ,.. h .. '"'''''... Il.-tau,,", ,<,ma''''' .-n nol
.1.)" 0... ."1.,,, In I. brown .."
Ih U"O" J I~k..... as opt ion ..l
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. ._________________________________________________ O.M IA

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What Is "Natural" Demi-Glace?

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"ion, 1'"11",, Ih procedure S"'en lu ,' the "'.e~t -gl ~~.. method hut ""''' ..
glMc ~nd lutt ler. Yi"kt:l ~up" (.~()O m, I\ ,lite",).

m.''''

Att~rt",li.v~ ,,,,,II',,,.ia/;,,,,," Pur_i'u "'0.,1<1 '''gue Iha, a "'u ,,~ ..... n)" n "'ro'" ""nnnl Ix ~all,-(I a oordel", .... bu t th .. ","-UH IS perl..-tly rOOt.!

wi,hoU! n. I'ind~' chopp<-ti, par!'1~.\: or clwn 'il"dJed a10~ with Ih ~~


lin;.h tht ,.llIee w,lt gi.,<, 11 " h... hn ...... t ha I" oth ..,,,,,.., """"'''1, and
gree n Ilech ,>sa,,,,t the Je .. p ,,d bac kground are pl ..asing 10 th~"yo ,\ t ..
spoon (5 milliliters) 01 C,,!; nac or .\rmagnt.t "d.leJ ju", lung ."QUS~ h.t
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ICI)'. ~ w ill" .Iro p " '- lwo of !\ir\k"h , The lin;,.hed lS-n<:'e c.. " be mad. :so
rich by addinj,l: :2 , .. hle.poons (30 millililcnJ ,,1 tOm .. 'O couli .. ,,'b h 6<11
3. ,hid, .. " .. .-. aoJ b, cutting ,he butt .. r in h,,11

____ BORDELAISE SAUCE MADE WITH REO WINE STOCK


Thi~ daui~ Muce. onc"c m.. d" wilh white wio . is m~d .. io a d"",.- kile-hen ~
addin!, dcmi_gl,,, ~ or ",~at gla~e 10 a r.d wi"" ...,t!u~ti<'>n I1nd lini,hi,,!! ,h.
",;th cubes 01 be.1 mr<'>W. Thc m,.,row c.... " tHo repla ... d ",;Ih a swirl "I' ;",111:<.
Th. ~ .... ne i. hoes, rr.-iuC<"<.1 "Ion~ wi,h lh~ ,lemi-gla...... or ",..I ,lace -;0 t'W
Icm_~ ,,,h ou' Mlm .,1 lh. tan,,;n_ Be~1 ul all i~ a bordrlaiH a;,"'" m'" ... b
O"tail_R~t! Wi"" Stud, (,,'~ 971 ..\, lor .11 htO"n ",,1'(1.'11. lh~ thICk"" ,,r,b<
","ute IS largel.l' B ",.11l~" at' ,~tC If red "';0.' Mod, i. u.".,1. ,-cr." linl< rrJ", non
.....;\1 he r.'1uire.! 10 c<>uk "If Ih" Bci,) ,Inti I~nnin in \h .. win~ ... "tI th, ... u," "
b.. leI! alonO'1 \,,.,,,h-likc. ,,,,,,'cd around .1 "oW 'I~ak in " "'''1' pl,,'~, ,I\"" ' .0
'le ",du<"<,,1 anti thi,_hn~.I"'i'h butlcr_
"~<l~O",
Olta;~ ~"

lllT[lIS,. A8<,>,T 6 stA~'''GS

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allot,_

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ol><"il,urll
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II ""or,,,
,w~W"hl .h...II" pp:>O'~'h .... ,
,lbo..1o'l~ <1';111
nlly
til te<lur..l by II 8hll
.... 11
h.oJl or UOII .... ..........

Str;u

\101 k ...

onte.

I... ~ '1IPY

AI N.

,Iw_ .... anJtOS,

I....

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~

~ 0K'0r>da...

..

N[URE T TE SAUCE
1'-;'11" Sau<Y

~"IIn}

b .. ~,r VffUOn of h,s ....c


n. no ntUl lock, ""h;ol il tan b.. , ,.-,kIy
"1
Ir ~ '0.. ,. ,'\.-un 1..... ~:1!' pop
jUrI' nJy. twn
.. I'Ve: ,... po.u:h...!
... htl ,I I \ "uUh ... ~ II 'CAn .. 1110 Ix- " ...1
or.v, I'~h. T!
IS mad
h,. ....11 ....- _Iic iJff'lbk. (m ~
IOU ... h AI (l """",*1""" p''OI
I I ' and hen mo.strruns
:h
"'n~
''''r :n-ed b ..... II
IIIoNI 101
r>JI wlIh
~
'oacI by II.. . . . .., ,...,....' ...1
"..\.; aI
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\d!..
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pm. and J, rpa
lIiI
n ....,ne arc
t\ "'""

rres:;

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-ed .. W I"
or \..

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l.", t .. r ....
linu"...!

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,

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and

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,

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to !aslt

(o,,~ ,h.. veVt;tbl ....

>0

1'''''' ,un", ~n<l ",.,,,, lrimm"..- (it un ,) ",'

.. .... ""I"''' over ~I,"m h.... t until ...rU browned .nd aI y


h:Y lw ""'

,u.:

h"w ...--.... _1 un th .. bolla'" Ollh.. pan. 51.. the_


"i <>YO" medium hr",' for about 2
u'n'.,.......

if....,..-nd

.Iw,t..- aiif' Iy.


,,1ft' doe ~..

1 P

" .."II
S,ntn
',lilt.. ) if,YUU"re

ai.
:0 ..

an,1 ad<11
:>LItt:;

bouc,.. pmi. S'm ...... pad lor

;>an and III":

c"-'

.alo

door:

to

(IS: ",iIM,""

cup I

1.- .....

"

3 Whllk In the !:.un.. or !.ru.....


M! ant! bn "I bad, 10" .. m...... for ......
_ I W"idr. ill ,I:
~ .00 w ...on II tue .. wI,h 11&1, .nd IWPfH So.
11 phot"@ ... pI. in ,h .. color "ldl<'L
Not.: \\.'hmltu; IP"KIUIOfl .....,..lDakin'.ult~ ::heIr"
rwy Iinle :oil.

Oft'!lIIt..

........ l

C~

." rli.J.

(~dy

bur ..t ... ion AI:I.rTU

",kr ~

Wd prJ
h.a
tun
S 10 20 ""no.:
u'
10,1111 bn:;. eel ,\,\., J
kec

","w

'1 ~oooon. ,:" . ""II,lilen)


tablnpoon (If
''''') of r. ....'Y .......
aneU ~ (lO
len) of
ow:
{3: l'"aJ _I

,.f but1ft'

Otnll

II..

,.all""

lhe '''Iftdien.. an..! . l-.. 'XII, ..... of !I,..


(, () m 'I.... ) ". -eeI.,
.. !. b<-< ' ,....
,a......' gt'nlly .,mm.. r h~ m,XI,lI"<l f, , 30 re ,,, ,,''''. S,ra,n .he ....,..
. -..,h .. Ii <'hi\"" I
II,
S7S millil~") . ' ... ,. e'" , h, ,..li'
."
n!to; II ... :e!_ ..,.1, 4! tAl>k-pG" ". 130 ,.......) ... I""
V..,Id,
"'r' (
mIn' ... ).
_,... .......if ,,_ boo ....i ...i, M 'od ... '.., d ,.......
.. d
_ .h.n
ac....,doial, ."d ..... "
............ .;~,L"
.......
bun
of....,..:.
....du....... k.., ~ .'hortaU< ,........ ~
y
1 .. ~t

II,.. /.(;t.n, If,'....,.

182

"

('n,J."'~k~,,,,')I<'ht ..I, l{ ... I,,~e

cUI' (1:l5 .n.lli I Uer~) of \ .... d~'r. l>y


""1'1111[, tn>II.lnero) 01 ,'onc nnilh.'d U.. u, ""..... ) In-m.,,, ., k

.I,,~"" No .... I"n "'. ,hin ,h" ""'''<"~


Yi,.H I ,-ul' 12!>l1 ",.lb)" ...... 1

II. ", -..,.. '0 ..,Ii""

it,

olr

" ,~ 1.:1
'"'0l0I
"II<y

.lfurn" ' i ...... am) I "'r"ali"n~. ;\dol,ng .~ '" t... [.lc'p'>on. (:;0 ,"ill.ltt~T"II .! '"
duced """hr'K'''' e"\'''C~ to. I "up (:1.)0 , m.llthla,,) oj ....,,"'....ill B .,11,
impn"'" ",,,,1 tllac~--b,,"~d .\1 ''',I~''., .... ""., \lr ".Id or Cl1l"~~lr" !n"'],r",,,~
f(~m.' ,'an I", ."nm,,ed lor;' mmll .... '" Ih ... .\Iad.. tra .

S a " " .. PorI" (I' o r> Sau " .. )


Th~ ", ... ,ho<l" for m;.ki"g pon S<t. uc" ar .. 'ht. ""m{' a. for .\I~d~;r.... u~
,hou the Mit,]" .,,, .. rtl'l.. ce,] "' n h a lull-I ...... I... d pori

U(''f'\

Port and "'u~hroon' S"uc"

un,.,

Th is .. nhound M",' .- ,;m;lar 10 " s.. ..,." l)uMll,~ lpag~ j7"h)


II useJ in ,h,' M UCil I>;", ..nd ,h,- mu_,h f"OOm~ a .... cuI into juli,,,,n.

"'01 II':n

Reel....

'''I

( 125 miltililrro ) 01 pon by lulL .-\dd 1 rill' (2.'.0 milliliter&) of "('<n~'"Il,.' I (hut
t;m",, ) hrown "w, k ,lnd Z <Jun e,,", (50 gf;l"'_' "I' mll.hr<>om. '''' i",o jul,tIInt
R~dllc~ or thin Ilw ",,-lit< as ne.-""",!)' I.. adjUM il~ C(lnsi .. ~n,".', Fin"h
bl .... pt>On (15 ",(II.Ii,,") "I dU'I)p~.II';us\r.\". ,\J,ling I
1~;~'I'IO\>n. (510 10

to::

u"h, ,..

",illifi,,,... ) "ll".I .... "ni~ ,in~gar '" ,I,,, ... u,~ ,: Ihe .. nd will l>rin/l ,.p In,Il.,,'"r"1
Ih, m",hroom. Yidd , 1 "l' ,2"U m.llili"'r~I ,

$.u"" I'i .. "nd~r"


Th ...... {.~ i.pr"!"".... ] h,- n~"oring .\\.ul~i,.a "111~" wi,h Iru!l1~ (,:[.,..,., n',,,P'"
red",;e .h. .\\...I"i... ""u"e by one.te",h ""..! the" <KId en<"'gh tr1Jlllr -"",I"
return thr ""U.~ to il' origin"l v.. lume, In .hi, "'01-,\, Ih. ,ru!!I., c..... "" i. M''''
cook ...,j in tl ... J,;'Ucr ....,hKh would ,... u"" ""... h "I'
"rurn~ '" "","I_a,'
;,1''''rn''t,-,', In """, ,rull1

h h
. ~.hlo"".",,"'1
,",II
,,'-'"<"nn
" '0
1>1"$ I e .. u<~ n,
..n..
h.... b.-e" flo ..... 1 'lVl,h Ir",h trum". (SH ,s ...,.;.., Fn'a!. TruU1~ I",,", ,I
$;lU(,. "'", .1... 1~ I;", 1,.,1 with
hnl""-.l truUlr 1><'4'1,na" '" m,ll1, 01 ......

i,.

\i!\ECAR.n:\SFI) DERI\'.\TI\,F

BROW~

t S

S .\L-C :

.1"
1'1 10,-,. ""lu,1<>
n,',,_ M~ 'v." ~",d. "I ",nc.,,,r-!.;,,,,,I ,.]" '" I"''''''n -"'u<"<" ".
...
ow\.I_""I_,uur w,,, ," ""'1. .,_. ,h. ;.U<"C' " .... 11", .I,,, I. a l'M,n(f" n < ~~.
are "-,, . oii,_ p~"'r...1 wi'h . ",;~"".., "I', "'" '." ..,,,I,ar.,,,,..j,,... I.,,,A' ,. Ir
...... ,~" n, "",J "I'" "~I in....,".!,., ..... L 1Aat." b... ",...... C. Ih~ j'.....
\84 ,CI'

.t.

I~ "ii, (I~'" 1/1.-1. The .....,m.... ""hid, d".,,, .,Ji'''>n~II'y """.I I", ,~d ""
&I"t 1''''1>-'", 1 loy, <,..k,,'tI ."'''~P''''' ,.~,<"1 ,hl,-. "mi m"", tc.mm,"P
,-;nr,~' ~ ... I ,I" .""n .I, ,..,.1 I", ,he m~;" .

,.",~

S" .~t-""

,oJ
h

WI

.I_Sour S"u",,,.

j. I''''I'."~,,I wi,h "l'l'm~im."dy "n~ I'M' 'us", I" OW" 1~'rI. wi,,~
,;Mog"r. U,u,II." ,,[,mn 2 .;,1,1"'1'"0,,, (.;0 ""n,I",r.) or 1I,,,,ri'lllr "'~ u,,<1 I""
qua,.,II; r} ,,! ..,u,-r, hut ,I... am""". may '-"':" <I~I'.. ndi"ll on ,h. '."1''' "I ...,"
An,1 ,he " ...."g,h "I,h<- "In"g;'"
Ii ..a! ; cup (100 gr,u"ol "I gnnub,,,d '''gar in" heavy.bot'"m",j ""'-"pan
or ". a cop!"" I"tllM. u_1 'p""'iEic:oJly 1,>< m~k;ng cMilm,,1. \1" .." ,h" IUgilr ha.
md,.,d ;o.nd lurn"d .. ,,,,Ie hrow". pou' 14 cup (I'J..~ millili,ers) "I ..... ;".. ,'inogar
in,n If....au'~p"n '0 di!l5Ok~ ,h.. canund ilnd "01' ,he cooki"g. S'OlIl,1 1,.,<1.. ill
,.;0"" ,h~ ",j",ur. "pa",,"". J [ea' and s,ir Ihe ga~lri<!u~ '0 mak~ .u~ ,ho
car.m~!i .cd o"g''';. ,"'''ple,el.v dissolv"d '" ,he ,in~gar. E"-wn ,hllugh ,hi. m".I
_III lih Alarge "mout" or g"",rique. '\ ;. h"nl,,, pr"!",,,,, in 'm"ll~r ""'nU'''".
[n .m case. ir ,,ill her [or ".""",[ ......,ko in the .... fnger;l1or.
.\\os\ duoi" rn 'p". for gas,nqm '"W,t CAramelizing Ihe .ug~r by moitten,ng' with ,he" inc ,i",,!!,lr. Bn:ause 01 the high hea, requir.,.) \0 caramd,ZIt
.ug;U", linl. if any vimgar ,..,mai". in ,he 1"'ln'!u" whe" thi.. melho<l ia u... d.
To u.w ,he gu~t,;'lu" in .. Muce. pour ~"'ullam<>u"ts ill'o the ..... "ce, nOllh"
gther",,;.yarollnd. [:It- ,."ellll,o t"",o!" ilS you go; S'L"ri'1'H! is POWU("1I1. and" I"ew

\ .""_.1/.,,,"'-

,Imps '00 many ""n ~poil a ""lICe


In d"-,,ic Frenl'h coo!..;ng. 8"",ri,[ue ia us<d only in ~""...".~,,,[.,our IoaUn,.
,",ue< a cont .. i"ing [run, \\hen uoed Uiscre,tly, ga.,nqu" c~" .-nhan"e the fla.
'-of of oth~r h "Own ~Uceo .... n (~C "l.'~11 IIIl;" ,,;.[U,, pago 1<);).
SAuce BigaTad" (Orange Sauce for ])u(;k)
Saur~ 6igara,-j~ IS ...,,,necl "h,.r ,h" biner Sc,-,l1~ orang~> ,hal ",~r~ I; ..... u,etl 10
flavor uuck lo Ioranll~ .\\0.1 recipe. !(jr saun hitarad, are in'~s-r,,1 ...,"",. prepa ,[ I'mm the bra;~inilliqui<l or I",n uripp;np Imm a rna.'e.:! .Iuck The ..,lIct
.on ~['" be I'r~l"'r...J fro'" r..duted ,!u,k ~'o<'k. S.u,riq"", and orange ~e,t;.
p,.. >aN a conc~ntr.,'...J ,I",k ~I""k ei.her wili".u' [i ..;>" by ....,!<". ng the
II Irk I"~ It lightly '~'ruf'.I" ('(}n,i."~ncy '" ,(.Jing m. .., gla~ ... Of" by bin.li"B he
p ..,,,,lIy redu~~,J -UK:!.. 'ith" ~",,,h h";~lln au h ," mu~. CIlI"OOIM,h. ur rn
~"

R~du'e tI,.. iui". nl -I or"ng~s (l cup",.,U!) "'illil;l.... r~) by 1,,,11'. .\,jol t ,'up
(2'>1.) mil[,li.e,-,:j ,,1'.1 ,,', .ntJ"a",d .Iu,l ,.~ k .",d .",1,,,.-. ,h~ """. "nul it ha.
.Iil'htl" F '~'I'.v "<>".'MenC).. \dd 4 ""'1"00' \:!O ",,1libt ... ,I ,,!, . "riQ
",he
e .-\,1.-1 he g"',,,,,,e

a,I,

'i.

;1

,... ,; g, ", avuid .I.ling ,,,0


"0-"-"

~A

....-h .
(S

ISS

11......,.. a

St ...........
of

""0" 2

hn .... I.........,

f.... ..

.....,Uol

to

to".. h,,,,,,,

II .... ,.J I
I_Ill mill.Io,, ... I .., ,ui......... ..
f1.
..
.m~ Iov .dolll,! 10 2 ...
"tft) "C..
Ywld:l po (500
...... ,

100)

10

O.I"'#u-d. IMJ.J. \dreptyflavonclyo1l ..... d k"Ol"


boby I....,'y 1,...,.."", ,~" In'.. m......
~
........... nll.' , ....... WI.h a 1' .... V1ou.lv "tadc d""Jr..
k<
'" ' ..... k ....
.. mawn.,. the lon . h f , 2U ... ,nu'" I h .......h.od
.t.., .....
0/ 1",..... mm ...,.J .. n.1 ..hon aim_1 s10t fu: l0"ll-.. mm ....~
.... J.. bexl".... h ........ w<m.""m....,J "un l'ro.... l ..
I.
:MiIV 1:h~ 1; .. ,,1... d ..... k hn" h ,1.0 ,1,1In.." b. on J~ I"",I
n. ...
10mi.,u'<"5" In.., ....110; h p.st roq ....

"""I.

...._

n..

Sallc. Homain. (R.i.in and Pin. :"riu. SaIiC. for

n,. 'I..n ~.... "......J II


u

.,.J

brown

_
sat

nu s. r..

("t.-.~

c. .... )

II linialMo:l WI.h
h ""hote
J.&rio.
y ., .. oenfii "Hh ...
'" ........1.

JhtlmJ. :\d,1 1
"0)

twa.a::

an u crlkn. noo.,l for ~

tid.... --e-dl) .......... 1000y II


ea.

(300 .... n,lil

'be,

)On

If ,t,",,,w ... ,I

(I
~

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II> J

IUrnJ
.ItCH

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50

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ah .h , .. t po (I
II d.rI. '""""" It mpre)
bInr
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I Soak
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r.'loIn ,n tabl ... poo
,In"",) of ann .to fOl"
and .tn -.em b.rf .., Jd
10 M sat
..,hd.:>UI I
m,lIiliren,lofp
It nd"", _ . , add"
1M ...... Y~
(1:4
D,I..ers)

s1

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blnpoo... ( ) mill
'-'p tiO m i.... ) 01 PO" Ilea. he ... tln~"
HI< ...1t
he r...",. do
I"t 1,.
\".J ~)1" OLIn
... j ". s: . or
hit, b .......'n It It
he I'" ,""t_r.. , n '
ad-, e:iem'st-:e..ltl
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o
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tal
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k ....
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,......rJ
Y; ,I

r.' .... I",

I ,,'Ioi&~ .IhtJ.J. Soak


.i&rk r

186 u

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01

30
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h.mol.. . IIy.,oI..l.,h~r~ ..." I _
... wd ..
,h~.... ...",01" OOII..,. .,/.. k. ,. ftovC>r ..-.. ~Ic rt it. .....1... ,I." I~I
,1

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rOR RIBS OR BRISKET
...r ......

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~ 00 ,,&I"')' nd 1 .hallol ( I ., nnl'l enm.) <:ru &I
p11 C Ihr ...,....,..: ....'r' ..I .
10 3 cur ( so m,lhtne-r,
...
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(P~~I'.flll~ (;a_ ....... N:)

Ct.u.M ,lJdlwJ.

<- ...Iy (100

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lem,
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ny
No
d.
, In... :cbn
0

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rll"ff ... h .. " u....-l.lo

J.Iy

COOl,.. ,

0 "lIOI...

m.otll

I\\PHO\'ISI:\G BROW' S.\LCES


... , fu oa

_I
clu.. F",nd,oa
nd color

...

Co SUlrn

....

II.. chap;o'"
~unb

,..j ~ .... ~. J'f'n

at .....

"f.

01

hod .. tom
pI"

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h

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hand

fu "11.......

lor of ~!oc ",1.1

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J 11
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of.
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hun ... l1li' rum Or ,her ,),.,.1 -" .k<-"Ir" keorp ,he ....n unbound .~.,.~

.om.All._n' ,,,,,JU1 ..........I .. ,hr ..... llh . - - 'bility ohd, ""


....
_I mrlhod ., _ ,I u .... '
of ,I. hKI VO--I~ ..un, ....... ...
I;.oiU
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\\ lorn doe .'..." _'OU '''' duo",. NUC" '" a'" -pany me-. toe ..........
(in.! I,rcKIr ",h... hr. ,he purr<- ",I ,I.., _
. . . '0 .... nCftlC.... .nd ""-.
~ral fl .. ,,<,,,, ,I ,hr _ , 0< ... hr,h ..... ,h., ..""' ,,, iu... "
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bonk...,,, ~ I "~ Th.~t;u.k .. '.Il~
' '''n .... r. ",,_.1..,,1 us.. m.. ,i ,I- ..uc. oboukl ..........

Jan<:H an ..... ~
tI .... ,,"poP' .... ~ . n f.o, I
_ 1
hey :m,.... JC'ntl wid :>1.11 '" I,,,t ~rf""'A"'n .J II)' ...
I... htlpt.., in
'I
apprtopn.
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o,t ,t......... lor h~

...-e.

TIPS tOR lIll' RI ,: ST .\lR .-\.....;T C IIEt....J

..",n~'" OI'1f'nall
Jr..,ch
-\~ Jr.,I.

IIrv

.1 W LV "II
\II~II
c'-oc ,j,mF"O\1M'<i

I Itrr

n
Iwnan

Fn
~

manv

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200

.......J..

.n b;a.r

...... n....... .1 oa.


a.n al'l"' I....
fl'Ofll lui In ' , ~I ,on.
I

:10k..

\ of

JslMa

h.. i h.. ~

Jw.,

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...

...... tI

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~~n

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an ;Q'~n

..:I.,' I

par

con urn.

It

,'"

'I,n\ll, d .
h.o''e aI I..;&at

" I

' ...

STOCK-BASED AND
NONINTEGRAL
FISH SAUCES
The best ti:-;h sauces are integral

I<lUccs

prepared us-

Ing he methods in Chapter J 0. when a sauce is made at


thtsarne time or immediately after the lish is cooked. In
man\' resl.::iUranl or catering situations. however, it IS im.

pratllCllllO prepare a sauce at thl> laM minute. Over the


centuries. ('hcl's have dt'signcd

auee-making methods to
dCi11 wilh the constrlinls

Imposed when limited


personnel arc a\'aI1.

:tble to prepuc

dishes for ala. gt'


number of pcopll'.
In these M.'lIingl'
..1 b':IH:h of sauce 15
plcparcd ,n adv,lnl C
.Jnd lar!l~ :lut m'e(

or af' ,und the ... OOklJ


I~h as ii" nN-deti.

In~......,f'rfl ,~, .. ,Ii.h ..U<"flI .ually:.ap


tI fLo_iii
,1.e.... I~nl 'li,1- II>(I. wu tI
.1 1 ..... ~_ of
... ~r.. l.lill...IlCft .....h .. n:-e 1,, _ _ ...... 1. - . I ...
.,..., .....ea....k ......,1 of 1m" .."h lith" ado." bon.,..

"

no.

,..r...

,,
,,

,..,,.. h"ndn.io ,......... ......1 JllIl h" .... ,.. IMre.-.-..


... """ I'" buOo ~ "w ...........1,. of otIXk.baMQ r......- . F

r-

1Uh"""" .hKt...-J "'III ........ ,h.. ll..vor.J tnth. "anetyof ..


~nJ

1".... " ........

:I w"WI., , .. f"'Odu~" 1....

..-hoIe... ..

" ..ri .. Iuh ......,...

S,." i"" TIl 'M 1'1500 and l<)6()a. rOlJ J<-I hj~ I."nni ...

Oft _,.., ....,...,

"hi'll ... ed. ,M ,J"a bo" nll,h .. , 11"", """Ion . Ioau"e needl"..ly .. h ~ "
f ...... ," lin""", ..,d d ...... Ila"or (,\ ,I ually. Ih .. .... "cu tlw ~~ 1be0l0: flo
II l.ene<I .... :n.on ,.,. ridMt-) Tr.,l,uo.1 llab veI)U~ WAt ~
oalICC" baMJ .. teduce<llul> 0>< 1. . 1'.. , , l.. cr , 0 " " - ' " ~) and .....
_
~ "r.
.. _b-.oI)o., of bod ;:.., yolk. hkk""ni ~
...1Ke-

1aI"'",

red........t Ii.... doc k .u..yun

t't&n.I

WI>Cft. . . .

~ pu..... .at ~ a:

..

ana:W-

unok Iype MIKfl (Ihortu


but co :at"
""'r.on' ...... .otter'iIp't

'""
...

Raw

lroml Inlche ..
\\0.1
II" ..U v- ............ m h.odt 11-.a1 W"f'e 'eqioped

du.,e

lI.erwd"lI ,...;h" ~ .. n '........

I'DU',:-Ih.

,~

a willi

('On'IIfe' )' 01 the c;4tai ... '" Yo.; II to ,,&&on m.ny:lf ~.. :ft
.""re ,,1'1' u.vy ar. ~ ""h mOil of II " erram and b -:ltr s uti WI
p~ ,Ioe it.
h" .... uce bUI I I've n .o' ,poH"dl,r app" e
and *,-1flM)'
tidal' ...... y 01 !w b :tel' aft' . . . . d "eM<.! l,ICn popula.

.o~ """'" .o 10

'%Ot...d

~"UCH

uue_h. Ra

;k.,ppl.atesWJ:
..

'"

".~..-

....:e tpooD

IGIp aft" I

IV. ......

.JiJu,

~!101'1"

, ......iD :aId ..... :c''h enabla ':M d

.1 ~ toalec wrth .o uuce.

Mr'V

...

at . .

lJI

'If'

the .... uc .. eI, ItJIf 110 the r.... ,

.. h.oul .VU'If: lie ceIy

,I I... rud

I'll

mad~"

"""'"

...

If

ord

_O ' ~",up

CI . o\"i.,IC FRE'CH 1'1\11 S.\lCI',S


t\l houp . . , . . hef. h.a~.., ahan ' -.I
pn :Ie aJuabI.. _
It.

oof .!wIot Iustc

......... , r

h .... t,

PI

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It.
Ih ..

202

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tt"

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, I",k .....1...... ~nu. ou< h .. Vln .... r. w mo


.... ' .... rn" bOih,..... ,... ..... "'II'" '1." 0 ,I
.. purllr:v .."'~ ... nd con, .. n,l'0 . r)' ,nll!''l

1"'<".

Of" "

or

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clAui _n rpo

,I

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"f 'n........ h t\..'... r....1, han ,M 1, ..1


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10 , ..I .

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____ FISH VELOU T t

. ..

...
''''

1. Bri.,. 10.. foah.. it 14


at'... froth 'Ntl

:>&10 I

~f'I

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eI

.... uri ...",

I-'I"fPm"<' ""10,, rou"


h II lOft An lou ("00"
In
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ofom,.

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rom I

30

sa&I .......

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:>den ....

"" h "'"7'

IC SAUCE NORMAN DE

...... CLA
\

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~Io .... hi h

_'_fio.l ....

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lot<

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r.<1~r. Th~

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er.

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Red,,"

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~rh .. r;~I0~

dow

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hq.

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sa'""" on 'h
I>f ~

nsC

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h ...11

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,. boil

....

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..nil

, !wI. ,.,..

"

'

.. . ., ... .. .. .. . ,..

C_ttW-"''')I 1..";"I._,f \ ........ \...-.m,J,.

h ... ~ on
~ ..Ic,..... n" I'o\ockr
.nd
I, ..... ,......... ......-.-.. ...... vn .., and "
So ",>0' .,...,
;lCM'a.r:v n ...........~'J Iq .........
<>Ny
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ta. \i,.Not'l
d.m C'O<>\..'''I 1"'1 ~
h.
,am.. ,n' of
~ m II , .......1I .. n '" lie
AI .. on\!
.......

AJt"""", ' tUNC

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.........

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\\
pn
n.... tI.:on:
r.... or ,n..

".h

w,,"

"....)."r .. '1

,_I.,

,.,u.1.",,-

............onl>O"r:. u,
.. ~ .., , .. ~
I,.n will
:oreaen,O'd II. "Kit. ~ ""'
lou. d.e)MtC .. or..... n" (r..... stock .. - '

laid. .nd mu........... ::0010 ~u;.h


be ...iuc:M
.. ~ry, .nd. rrL&, "".,. arlle ........, ol Cr.-a
b n
,.. ,n:le
u,...Jut,w.. 1I.e
--e ,I lM'<;~ry.......
0\
&(I
,. , .
.., ..;111.", ... 0011....
r
nrh..
""'ene..
d io....J "ur" n 'tna
b
I L u,reon ..1.
bK.....
.kriveo .......... n,..,h" I,.u:\ u ,I.. n... .I' ..,11,
'"' f.
""tV 1m ,t ,,~, n ~\KI on
___ CREAMBASED SAUCE NORMANDE

-.
..od .... 1 ,

,.

" ...1
u n,

s..-.tI

....

Iw .l... .... '

III ,''''

Ift, C'fIM'

Z06

,I

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hl

rr"",'M,w

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II'- I , l l aT

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"....,."",otot k
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""-.
""

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'"

11" liIh 1tOC1.. the ... ,_, ,:ook..., tiquid. Ar>d

c:ookiIIt ;oq .:!d in a.t ~ ...."

(04 lil~r) "u~q>Aft end

I~ M.w-_

-educe tkc ,,"d....!y

.IT' I,%,so ... illili:l~) ~~

i.

\..IJ Ihx .:1'NIn and r.i1Ke u"lillM m,xlun IhiclteN 1I;,""y.

( CuI ,J. o...lW 1010 ~ cube. &nd.dd 0 . .-1"""" ofillo tie :It-l""
bO" '" 'hWt nop,dly 0\'" mMi Oft 10 hieh hNI until Ib~ buner dl .........
add an",h~r lounh of Ih., bUlle "n,1 wlli.J,.: c<>nllnu~ in tI 1II.y unl .11
It h
f h
~n "dd.,t1 :\t1i
,I, "n~

--e ( GG YOL K- BASED

SAUCE NORMANOE
J

s..

AI

'y"-

The

!RI

..w.

...,p....(~

~t . ~r lyonthellovrunril."h,du.1t
-...... ... _'lOboiJ.
50
L kellM in Ihis ....y .aVO! Ih, .dy.... ~ oyer erN! and bUllet
Ihl<b
......-n of, ,)I requln", MU
n or he fI.h 1t(!C1..and ......... or .....
0Ir'II..... ...:;1 CO"""'l..-dy. ,hey ,.,I.i, III',~ I
m.li" AI ~ frftl
'I\t .h",.. _ 01 h., u,. ~ .,. be ..d ~lIteti by \flU')''',. .h, l'Ium~"I"".yojl..
1IIl<I. 1':>111 8 In 16.voIl.. f'4'r 'I,,:!n lloler) 01 Ii", ,I .\\,., egg voJ""lhi lu; ..I
0lU<"n -..lin .h..,j .. h)' It 1,,1>0 one_'fOl" b...
mr). R"nvmt ... r. w' ,
u..... tqyollr. ,... oidCOOk'~8 ~.,m
.Ium;""m liS.
~ -.cow- ...,thod
hid"., JI&
h fA yoIJ.. ."voIve:a ffli
8 ,he n...
~'--nl ,,'hial.i"l hem"'l h eayoll.r til "" s..bo.von ,..... 564) AI
Ih.,
L I he.au ~ III
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..

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..

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209

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\

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h...., r ........

,..,.."n." IAn," 11<- Y "."n '


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l'b. :>Ir. IO{ .... ,..... ~:Ih). hu, huo I)IIliu, .. "V

11

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m,I!.I ..... )
r.... p""k '" '1 ;;>prd oh.aa h.a: ........
Inb ur R.... lu~.,h...... -e I (upe.3;-;m,l1~i'Ha) A.
,i50 r::
r../\ v' ,.,; r. ,.h,h IA "" ..."h ~
(1~5Iro.: ~
It I'h'r ~n<11 ,~hl ,,>00 n!, mil1i!i
) '" ,h<>,,['<'<1 p;oraleV. ",hi.lud '"
lit
aI, Y;"I,I q ut ( r
od.a_\ Om)'-'.""" IAUC..
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, ..., U' ... ,he . - proportton nd
...., . . . . . . _00

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rhit. 1&1"' 1' ...I ..n b
b,nl I ~ u ....d Iurl_bouillon

". ~

II....., ~n, I ... mi",,", "h m,lh 00 n" .... 'n'"", h


CC!C1IAOr 01
.empo ~
.,... I .,.. of.,
,..,...11.,. chef ...." ace foal! u. 11. ........Iy ..-,d - bouillon

fond ," .. n

Mr

>\dd on '" I
;uns)
mush..,.,.., 'n......,..
.po
on
of """"
.", Red ..., Joe mixtun ~n'
) 0::5 m' llenl .... _
p......... ,he.....!
.......... mi cur- MI
, ..... ) :ri r.... ..,~ all
Ii hwt SoulK ... (I. pamoo) f II. --.onWlhc~
:ow'
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q "" II lit ..rl.

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_

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.h....., un be P '1'pa.red ~ 'hiclo,""", M ~


her ....... "'11 ...,jl....,.......
'" propor1 :lOll AI IM"po

_tet.lon

06..111

s.-.R~JwI ....

,\ +....., laue.. ~nn; pr<.......J by ~:l.li.......


TIlMI<I~ ... 1
h~ ..

10 a

...... cup (:
0..1. -\t I

RI
mu......

-./ cl \I ..." ... Rift!'


(_ ........, 011.,,11' 1'~,..IInr AI

....... .and {.I-l In


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1k

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bI&J "

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&I

WI h muotard. LL
he
''''Y b 'It~1 or p;ul.. h" " 2 ,up' 1500 r;;
~) <>I.." e M
~ on.,tI ",I} WIth ? Ie.u.poonr. (10 m.......)
......

(50,........) of .""U", bun~r. anci I luopoon 5


...... Y"rld,:i c:ups (560 mit,. ... ).
oJ:

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rn)

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n-ho :on ,. p ..... l'.. rnt 11": ju. .... M'JII ....
C1abIn.: II.,. IU IUIn,. Iht-n rnrrw<1 '" ,an .1. lit lIaI while h~
.,.
bo d wuh UUn vin h anc (holJ .. n,""~ m."hoJ) m.ade in ad, "'"
.1"li,1 ~ I :ne<lium Carm I m~l.u ..... IM"I&C .. nd I 1....1.. S......, Ih,. JIll,

II"nM for 10 n'llnl n

.II

b IIOW.anc ,hrn po

.. ) of .,,.r

I cup (2.)0 on

- -.

"' .. Xk.S."",
.Jowl.
Iii ht..,...uobl,..~ :lOll" SIr
.........
~ and "Vir Ii
to pr;; Ito,. ""
'J'1w """1
:I Col IMn bo-,_
II" poec' "" :iw rosl Go" a "!""tly ,. .'''1 IhCi' ... ue<o. nile!....
liquid '"
..

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y Y..,kI, 1 ~2C'U~(~h'
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ell .

211

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,"'" (150
I,h, ..... ) of .. h ..i ...... n ..pr, I lo., Ii, I
hI
II "" 01 ~.
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. ,..a,~
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IIw ~""l'
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.. I of .anr.... ",II", (L..,.,r;,.j IT .". _
101 m.-k.. IIw
~

,-"",bilW

.... ..:~

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50 ,....m.) of

... _

S' ....n h..

~OO

and

U.uc

and;l:ll~

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........
y, ld. 2 "'PO

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add ell.. h
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3 ......... 1 oln-d,.. 1""'..""'bul1
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~

10..,. "..

h. ., .. I;n~

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~ "pi ,"I) II\;Q,Io, ..... )

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)

2.12

., .

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....... SEA IJ RCH I N SA U C E

s.. ...1., bu" ~ (


~f tor L I
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..... I''.o he
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:D .,ari,~
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...., e _ . The follow""
nbi""'h<- .......
"",lks..",lcrtal -.;dhu.o ler;t "
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,.n,. J _h
II
~~
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s........ 1.;" ............. " III "..t h .klicat., r.... di'. ...... ~Iw<
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.,

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Ao noon .. al''''''.n

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It .... h boo .. ~. n..a..,. ~ ........ 0.- . . . . yoIk. ... r. .1.0: s". t!"'hon _
.1.1) ,..1'"., _ i. h' fini.h .. f,.h ... u~~ ..... s"a aeoIIop .... _
....

1 ...,1w.11.... l'O J
... 1...1".... ' .. l"'rI~d anti th~" ......! 1'."''' \0
I'
...h'l'p~.1 boo" '0 h.......... 1 ... "h In\1....! <> ..... ftd oc;tJ >POor ....

".

R ed Wine I'i.h S ... "e.

...."'"" ..... uc::"


....
&e1'VeCl...
en! _ILM' oq I and :u ..... ,\\.,.. reo

Reo
...

.or .........monbonnfc

tullAa\OOnd 6.lt .. :lo


_ for rtil aa_

..,.J..i"'r..h ..ocki.e< ...\""

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~ Jlay,
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bodiM reel.... .. ..... _ Lon............... ~ Y'" ,..,pln....., ....
~.

T .... followine: ,....an ...bo ~ ... 1'....1 wi, .. 1o<J .. ,.j. R.,plA<e ........
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....

'''_, ""Iii eb &lie.J

.n..

Red ..
I;.h .....,... pftp;t~ ;n ,hi ....a.v arr., .. h ...,
FnrVOl'"
hat wu,...dr _I. red heel fw.h """ k ~ d,
(oauce'
_

:!l,..,.,.

--e

RED WINE SAUCE FOR SALMON

- -- -- ..
- -- - ~"

"

_:nttIIII ",...,

.... ~ t' >IIPtCI


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I .......... "",1 ."... on

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he

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lei

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.on..,..

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T1w "ro ,.-1, ... ,~ II.ei (1'10.


~hoo;is
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oIllls lighll.v ... u ~II :In I,,"", linl~hc<l in .h
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1_, V... n.h

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r,
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unnrII \_ .....11...

I .. mul
0' < .. "'I .... io.lOc ,nil'"
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.......

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han br,,,,

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r,,,.. i0oi.. _ard.t
he Far E.a01.. ..,II ...... E ""","," moIo,,"II or .... ,t
1\.0.", COlI ~na"on.

.......0'

___ VINAIGRETTE- AND COURT-BOUILLONBASED CHIVE SAUCE


WI I. buol<
Th.. NlJ<.Y .. l.r.-t
o:ourr
ilion....
...tl) hock
II.
o<"KIul..tni .~tll.
-nll;uld '111........::1 aI h.. .,nc!

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ant,..n.;.. hv ldJ'.~", .... ("'.n
"nand....
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rm ,ri~ bultl1'
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:ombtnrd AI .... lui
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.... ", ...11 '.,,)' irpo ""'I'

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6 hi

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t i l ' ' ' .....

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&100 ~

.oJ

\1""'6" , ..

,h..

ANDER-SCENTED CLAM SAUCE

.,.A COR

'
"...au....

..........

d"",

h>"

lam """",,..

r.o." ,J.,....

hrc h In

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han,. "4<1,
mu.hl'O<>m ,i..1 , ~c
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etand ..,

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.,.-w.anc: d.,o ...ucepu "'. ,i ,ha..,,1

..... ",''', ""rvuIlS

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10"" J I'!":Ju.e"
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(~ 'lin') ..uc:~n and.,1'1": t'I lew!; ,,,,nu
S,...... 'mI'
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....

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.... but

... , .....

,,110

h'

II

211

~
____ TOMATO.SASEO VINAIGRETTE/HOL LANDAISE

."

SAUCE fOR FISH


lr

d.

...,,1'>

'" ,hrn}x> tl....or..d


lomato P"~ (_ So ,. ""
Fish ..... ~ JII'J) In .hr l"n,.... ,"1 ....", . th ,,,main pur_ b.. _ n..

,10...... u,~ hv ."",n!>"""1l not ",,1.,- 11;"'"r hu, 1_I.v. It "I,,, Ii ,i....... u. ~
Ii .1<... lIMo ,,,,.,.0.' and ",I.
,e :o,I.I.l... b. d..... ....J..
....

Th., .....

vinaItI mtr finished wuh _


10011.. ",1..,...
.w...-Thio .. u
M rn<,,!tIirJ by ..
di ,. ... nt -rtabk """'"" .. Iloo
by .,.........
lit .he ("{>.trt.~
(or .... pl.oo 'C "- lOIn
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,.. G.
Ii ..."
.1_ balKC' hn'."...! ,..,,1. 'ru..Ue,.... eM .. bun.n..t. ...

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I.... ,"""'-11"

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II'"

....

-- .....-

SOD .. 'UILIUA,. ..... 0101' t .. It_VINes

-..... ...
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tpq "b1)

k ton ato(OUlll

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m

to t.\I.

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,hrC'OUrt. uiUon)1e ''1 (I:~mdlitilenl
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3.\\bklll' >I.noilu ~I"'" :>maIO "RI.............

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...............

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VI

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h"

.....

.................

____ SMOKED SALMON AND SHRIMP SAUCE


..... e ..

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... lM:f:

..

......

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!1".~

.
"
\.abo.< ) .... hoch ..... " . _kome If"'"'" P"
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..

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n.. ....,U '" _


218' ,.well

.......

... lor-do.
.for
1;.es1~lodWlt. ,~

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Io-

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1 '"" .. :>knl..u XI in' hn Unpt..boul I
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11'"'0

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J.\II)R()\"ISI~G 1'1$11 S.\lCI S


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II ...".-v.I' ~
dt.hn appen

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...,.. ... liniah .... 01
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rn"
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r.....

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bfton

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"par .(59)
~ .....d h
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ouch
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.........'"

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.... itwtT..
'I....."",..rv "rI, n..... u."T' ;oc,.awt for
",u~h~.n ,u,bk 'wyanbr ~
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OJ f.......
_
u.....,. ted

nd

LoIVur to: 1lol.Icn.. Thrtr ~

cf .... Ii
[>.-pm J,n. . . . 1 "

pn .,."...,

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......

coun

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, .......

I' .. pp"

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bk ................... .an br '"'


10 pnnoi.d..
'i
n b.. puo-ftd .,., led as .. ...... &: 1,0 n

I 01 ..... "'

can I

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pt.1

u wed.,., .....

-,

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i

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ZZO ..

II

,,.

..

I:\Tl::GR\I S.\lTFS !'OR SAL1Tf:t:n MEATS


\\o:<>n-"",,".II.-I"" r&l,,,1 ~ ..... '" ~.....JI _ n . oft...,. r. 1\"
thou-,I 0<>1 t.COf\h.-l ""h f~~ ..... wt...... mul .. cooa.... by ~
.",,, ...1...I"""ra-cl,n hoc ..... ,,' ""h .,0!W1....... h.... _u. ~ ~

Ii .... ,n ',<It r.. hul 'M" I;n.. h ('UOk,"f 1R loqu,J \\.'h", .. In..., . ~"-"-d.
.houl,II., nUll,' ,ft1"'~ .... 1~ p".n ","h .... "'''1 .. rootn.lfl!o"fOUI_"",
... ,h~, 1",n "I .1 u. I.K" .~ .~I~I, ,1",,"41 "'IJ'~'",. Ih .. m1 J.. ~ ......
~
",_nn..II,' ,,,,,,..:1,.1._1 ... ~c" .....>1L hum An u.. ~ fOUl oro . . .::.
h.anJ. ",III_nl .h. ",,,<>1 lrom bro.on."I "'rnlyand ....v ....... .,..... ...
,110 ,,,,,," 100 '-Iu ....kly.... ,h.al II ..m",,,", >n iu, .....n "'''"" ..... "'""""',,'" .\\"al houl.l ~I ....\.. t... ,lmrot,.M.v d.;....d .... lIh a........t W_ .....
.. AnY "'"1.Jt,, . . . Irh on 1M ""'". ""II C~I" It..a ... and will
,\\ean Iho.. t.! alwaY'- b.. .... I.... n" '-vy-Ixxtom.ed pan. ...bida .........
h....1 f/"Vt'fllv II lhe I>&n i"oo thin. II will be too hOf in the_dirwdy_.
d in &n.V ~ion not in COftlan ","1. Ih", _to 111.. _ _ ......
10m ..... ull. 'n un ..... n brownine- and .....V cau_ d~ meat , _ MI
"h.-~ Ih", f>&n ....... hOf. H ... vy-. . . <"Of>PI!'r .... aI_............. _ . .
lor oAU1ii"l Iron .J...II.... condlK1 bu, .....11. bul _ _ 01 ..... ....
;1 ;. dilT...... h I<> _ lhe i..,"" th.t adhe~ 10 the t.c.n- MI ~ ......

w-

pn-wm-.........

tu.._

n....,.. ....

'iwyare bum,... N_kand

~ put

.t.a.dd be ........

;..icft ~k&Md by Ii"" meal .-til ftOII adhen 10 lheir ..an-.

c_lind.--_"""'
"
a.-

a.:-.

When IDOl. aft' MUlled. they ~Ieue IU"- dud ~ . . - '


the bon..... oi the ..uli put. The_
aft' tbe baai. For put-dqlued m1Wp'al .. _
1M _
the pM. 1M line..., 11'1 ~. uuee

Ir _ _

'-been ........

.... ,...wiII .....

dw bane. ........ ...


..... pM . . . . . -..py"...,. air and-..w.
- - - . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1<>

.........
.,...
............
,...
.....................
....... -

o-thtr.t.. ... r--tr.- ...........

........... _Uq.id by ....... dw

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......

,I .......,... _ , 1'-<".....

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...

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~jn.

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....
~ .. 01",,11.

10

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, ...., !>.." ...... _
..

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(>n<... ,h.. MUt4 ..." h... 1_ .. J~IIIu ...I.n,llh......'


I h
I
h
Y"'<,-."".....,
cou' ,..;,h .....:1. o. _ .., I "'-', , ~ """c.. can I,. ""V.. <I ~, " or t... \'111.111' bou 1
\\
,............ porary .... d..,I...ed .... uce. u.. I;n,.hrd .uh ,...., .... 1ft
..t..,h ~
,..... ,...." ... and n., ...... Whn o-.I ...
.-d "","",,..;J.I &100 ,.,Ite .........C'r wilh."." d,I,,'i,.. II and . . .
I~
,__ Ir~ ......an.loo 0., I~dy II 1...-1 _II
"fa (_
0: ptK I~ -P"..n. .....1
n. :Ir.~
~ ~r7,,~ '1. or I,""
dlftM' (ICe YOfW1.nd Fr,..,b ~: p.r 1.'2)
S;"" d, .. "" p",I~( unoounJ v......"n ... I p.on,k,Lu..! .... cet, w\",-h cmIW
... b :rr 1M" ,reo ..... Exc .. I1 .. .., "'IIef'S ,';an be ,''''p.o...1 by 'imply ,l ..,Loll", II>.
I "'" and ado.l, '11'til ~ or mille...! "".-\. un,i' ,h.. 1&1> h...,h ..
~
~. The
~....- ","uh '!"''''t',hoo:! i.,ha'Ioo ... tt<.-h .......,p- .-teod,
.-ill,.... fw.-uce .. ocio. kyo ,I"")' conDIIor'!',} ' .....''UNr..d V'ft'UOnI 01 putdrJIutd MUCft ~ wid! V<'I)' I,tll.. or "" ' - . . .II" bun... &1, of,....
prnrn'...f ....... ,he HI in .. de.-p pt,.to: or w>de ~I Wh ...... p.n..kaIa-I
....... haItI!
,....J om...,en.:," /t .. ro ..... ~OIC'ti,'" 'or aJd,ngli...,.... ouc ....
(",Am. bun~r. or "I!,-!ol~ pun!ft). i. c.n b.. tin .. hc-J .... " .. ~n almost ,f . f ._
n..y ,,1 ..d.:Ii,; a.I fl.."rinS-- \'iMSU. c.~. Ir!!.My c"opOl"<! hl..
po"ft, ",uuard AI :I ,-hoppeJ .rul1lc. UI! ,!.1M .1",," nampln.
~ ftc! I ... UI! II.".lIy aompanic-<l t>y ~l s or Dlhc-r p" ..,....
~ on Iw _ ... anc pl"ftf"fttation of tI ......o au vepl&bIn a=
lOCO
~ m'nl ....... h!!r ~ ~Ifly Of
........... h , .... _
_
orourn ndtl~ ~I \\.,.. ... uNeda ..... an ,..."pl..-tnlbyhu.,o

.....a....c"'" ....

:Urft.

s.... .....

n___m....

dea,,,,,

.. pmllu...,. II h".

,~" ..... II .all OIOJ" of baron (I..n:ioonI) ,~

>"eftUt11e.. b..by .,.tu,bl!!., or purl 0 ".on', ,n 'M ..uce kfo"- " )~_I
II!rcw ptac.J III let ,1M- .... ,.~ll III!!"''''
Ewn 'zpt!ne"IKt!.1
.Jr., .-no ... m!!Umes conf, wei by ;.ou"e ;0.0 n _ ........
uws IIt,....... :I UI:1I . In "rid u1inrY ..-lance... MlIIJ If
:oa.~of _
,,{_I I 'lKii",poulrr ,hool awbftnbnowt....t hoi
r.. AI': ........ _,j M)Ir.,"I. wuho t add:~ llq~ coIh!!r lop 01 Iw 110 ~ or
I...,
n. TIt, MU .1, ..... 1111 .. ,hen f'l'tP"rcd on h...... uMd ~ bon
"",""I at
:o... b
I. lhe cooked me.' jll" ~fo ......'" "" MIl" .r
"" n p , ,I m , .. r, b ..... d bill ,),," ...... ...1 in lu,J. II ,,""I""r'" n

..

'

II

.. ,

... U C

ZZl

.. lO .. [ OIl'N <:0 ........ ....

" ..

\...1

....

s...

.......

' ...."""....,.

SeNk. t ................. 'f'~".I

c.J.,

j ""'r ...u

Kid .."..."
' -""

J....

-idf

aMII

!.in

.. ...... wi~ l dLK~


oil .,. pwoe b,n .. hoIr

"at;o..1;

__

Oil pure......

,:t.nr......
""'"

'INAL rt.... VORINes

.,-

, ...

...

~Mr':

"'"y....,....

~,f..d l

"'"
II.

011 'II (0"1''''''''011

...... .oJ, or

d... d"
Co;

'rJ

......

Tnd:

""n

eAANITURtS

">uc

.....

"

224

011 IN COWI"'UION

400n'ON.r.L STOCK OR GLAC[

"

.0< ,

h;...u,.

,....
" '"

U1

...

... o~[

Co

mAl'<: ..

Sp;ri

'

O[CLAl.INC LIQUIDS
"'~O~t

'1' '1'"
Fn h c'

ft..... ,

rATS rOA 8ROWNING

'III W

111,,1'1"

M
t.

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'1rd...

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U ~ ET SAUlt). LA MARENGO

~~".,. /._f,..-Jo (11...,... "". 1f....J.n.,"' .


\11 ...... ,h.. k,... .....
an ".. ..arwdal_. " .lvbv~huoci. h~.ar .
.. , ... ~ ...... , .... on.,1 J ... h.
I'n .. u,~ "'"""n.,I . . ._ \:hl<lo.~n
,,.......,.. ..... "",,,,.. II
od wit!
lror,1 n' AI ,I -.yr..h .
~ .. ranro ~n,1 "om.. cook.
y.... 01, .. '~n' ,h., f"LI .....

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It ... ,h" 0'. -II In
.quart ('" r
r "h- '" I.c! ... u.1' ,...... ,\ hn
dw hi b".1t .Kk Ii I. II Ih I' , ....to It WI 11 'Un '''8 hem. h~
pn
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225

---e

STEAK WITH GREEN PE PP ER CORN SAUCE


\, Y

.,

M.IIr.

-loon
..

!'K lp<'. ...


......, rLt
.u.o l".. mad .'.)lI1t" ..,n'; ...

,....d ........... ~ ba-. Th~ f..llo:;

...... .. 1..,.,-." ..

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l>ry,\ uukstilrO.,nly [n. , e'''Il>e ...,(21,,~r)1I


1w ...uon.1 c"nlirdb I~r \\
I> ..... ~ .......d.od"
donl'nr .... Tm""..... h
.t
...... "'P ......

u""'"

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Wh,ok.nl
tIWIo Lo'I
h thon .. kponanc...
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loqUMb
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p<'pP<rf'
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and

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bum:-

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Not., Th. ;anli..,. -.- le. oed II


"I>ok hu

,..& ),.

-.

- - PORK CHOPS WITH MODERN SOUBIS[

r:
_blot poarft
,

226

In I

II . . . .

.. J ofod

.....

..

-'-..- -...... porto .. Cf1<M'I'

.....

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I,", ~
~ thopt.. 1".. "'-I""" 1.1" ... ) ...
... hopt-;II d... ..,-;f..-d butt..
,I _II .... 1Ir.\ uod 000I....!:~
r, .r~r ,,,"
pL..IO!.. I..eep warra.
1'00>' M I~I r....... Ih~ p"".,..1 ",.,w.. w;Ih Ih .. 01 ...
IUd".,... ,hO" "'01'1.. b., ab"", "n~.I""nh an<I .. !., ... in ,
""rh. 1\,1
I fh .. ,h"I..,,..... by ......1"... "1: II", ...&lIC" .I,@hdl' (In Ih, QIII or .. Iol,nl
..,..1.. 0 c...am (10 Ihi,,). 1\01),,>'110.. ..,.... ""t!'..

"'.o

HOI.: rM .,,11cJ bu er , ...V ~ ... p ..,...1 b:


and? gbl ..spooII' (30 i1liliu"l) 01 ~;t

I .... HGR.n S,-\L'CES FOR ROASTS; T il E Jt"S


L .Ite p.t: ..l..,1and ..n:n 10 uuti .. J ..... , ......hieh can ~ Ra -...i II
t..nJ;II ......y ~ill"",", .1Iy... MUCH ... _
&rr be-.. u, I i .
.nd I
~ IfIe, fLa ..... r 01 .he rout. ""Id,u
... , ... ., JC ..ak .., Ih .. natu
VOI"..rf 'M .:lU1 .h.,,,td b.. k"pl 10 .. m, ~um.
~ I..... ..hoJ 10' 'OUIUlf m.,al~ i.o <II ... p ,n f'um of .. wood lin Wh ..11
I . ,,"hod is us! drippirol p.n (lJcJxt,ilt) p..,...J m In. <>l11.1i" ' ftdly
"",,",hen_,i ,InNI.o ...dro :.opUr.,he('r ;nnp..\loaI )\lh.,l;u ".
-..l fn .... (' r)l..,.. and II ... "mal I/If )UI ~
II he
is.le,
.. ran Iw.Ap y lIDIr.~ d own on top
,I m..
nil ..anm ..1ir..: Ih .. fa,
" ' " )II -...i oil _
he c&fWMIu:~
, ..... ~ wid l1li .ppn ""ely
R,.,,0f'.:I MUIr::'.arock

""rwd..

"
:!tI OV ..II _ . . ,
.. t..'" Iu .. 10..,1... II h...,y-bo-- ......... rountIf p&II
(' ....c..!p;rn ... wo.k "inch) ...,
tv ,,1I.w.,oI,,", "l)U1.lf""
- '.... pan.loo ....'r.d. ui<:." "';1I'Prrac ~ul .... j r ..a.:eanJl n.
'''''... 100 hip lI"y lu.ber IItaI.o :>'I
,Ii.... cvnUl('I W1 h a t " ' "
.aJoo n.u .. .., ,h .. d"Pl'i '" hI lou n, M""," .... ;IH. <II....
In hr

-n.....,
1I

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rn .. nd ..-111 '" roMll u" ,up

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onl<>"
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np and w~h"'" 110.... <."OII,nlr
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f'NM" Thor probktn
t oh
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not pn""""h ull- 'lovo...,... ,uo
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to
,I juo .. ntl look. rn"r ~ Ioke I n ,ur,,). un,h .. l. .. n .. ,1 JUI ,han "'IC. h"........, .....
r< ~. L"
"mp<'r~' < h.. ll. ho,.." "" ,11\ Leu. ;IlOl ~Ikod '" u"" ,\ kit ...
.....,. likrly
h nail ral , ..... ill
h k("::-,.,j ful1.n ..YC!ftd
..ock .. j,h . "",ural, k .. 11..,
;.:In '110 be p"'pan' ad,
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n

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Ii
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it
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.........
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II...

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Model for Preparinq a Jus

..

LIAISONS

_A I " I IIGII[OI[IIT

.'

-'-

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..

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11 ....' I>r'"
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'M"", _

b u , .... ~
ldn L .......

r.

....

""lI" ""

u. "",I. ,,1>1 ............y. wl..d. ;. f'n,",1>0'1-'1,.. 1 h.""rt. 10", .",1 lII'UAI'1i ". 1.0 ....... <>r C .-. AI.
-j:h ,h;' .oM ...~n'II.nt ",.. ,10",1 Ih "h"I'p<"'l m,..." p .... " ... le " ," ~"- ...
.,..111.",,, .. J,It.....n' .,,,1 oom .. ,,h~' "''''... n.avc>rl"I, It "bu,.....
"" ....
I''''' .. ("f..,.,Jp .......-.....n...lhwl :e I,ll
&I ..." " ' _
<l
,""" . 11.".
t:
:onl" 10 II .u. &I 11M ...... , minUll! ,,~ ...
-'
t<> repanlXfU'" WI h .. ,.........
tOM' ....... (_ p.tp 12-4
rooIr.inf ~uid fWTI pI'M "l,L:a. ud x.--..
."'"

.'\n n .,... ..... I...

f' .....-,...Io. ... I .... d

r_",,"

r...

:he.

.,.]

,II",,......... tI.

>Od

lUI

y..-d

nomblR&l

will. "" pur&.

ofC ...... 01f......., ...dy; ....'.r _par :SO)~


...,,f, """, .. r,w..-n.fte<l
"..r ...... 'nr.......J ..,

...... dra

,~

o-e

.....

bel ..

ad

"'-'

OVEN-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH NATURAL JUS

n
... I~ will .. ,he .... n.i Y
pnbrc-::-: OJ
dot
'*'tI .... ~ drwd out ~ ...... .u.i"
&0.-,
;>0' II
......... ......, he hid,,","
"'fun:...I
"" INn...
...befi" '"" for
;'111.: ...
()ld... ropaougntrovennrtlw~...I1 __ choclttr
......ul'"
bro.
J)
u... iint . . 01 ............... fhe ,hie' and ..... _ ..... ....
. . u _ __ Th.
auod iJ.,~ )VI .. I: ...I. nlt..Mll ~........ .hto1. ri
- ... an .....
LAnd ..\, 'UJ .J,~"""i "';. .. d. .. up .....,J1 oM..-ol.M-i
an.J ...... " ~ tt> ........ yrl"l. ,h. <h~k.n I ...." ". . . Th ..
...d J I lit...
... the .. nJ or .....11;J"i! ". &I
"
"p.
o IV .." ,

hri . _ .......,1

,....

br........... ...

tI....

....

2JO I

..

-..

....-...
l~--

,..,

....
~

..

f....... II
~

"

2 !lot II... b..n~ ~


M'"

it.....

['UM

,ho. <hi..

._hM~

hn"Y.I>OH

.... I pa ....... _ I p""


Ill'OWft ,h d ..c ........ >II aU Ai
) ,...,..,
.. h. L ro ,M:we. I, .....os, .~l.. ... l.o..,r ,....
Ob IIh
101 ,.-t. f .olun"
lOlL ,un-o" ... l.h .. " .......... h I'~" 'PI
~ rr, ... h,ch'''JI' .he 'r..... ,._I!~1
11<.o_~""
......... I_'rom ",h... hi 1........, ..... ,1..1.1 .., aJ.-J ,he", .. ft1\ \(.
...

",,'

___ .., Ih. 1011 .. d.. I lor If." 2"


' ...... n
...;ArwMnil
led",;d
r ........ " chicke .... <>. pl. .. <> pt..n
1UK"

",II

. . . . . . .,

...... _ . 'U
h" "IIC I....
1......"'.......:1.1...1 If A
L ,htm i1I....,.. .) Ih... uoy

:. ...

_at...

~11w ~.1>.01

""' Itt .....inf pAI\ <> 1M n".., unll 1M


'" ~.u on be
.... , .... porn.. lhe
ro ""'I .I;r.
1 Rnn~ lhe f.al 'n
Ih "nHi'''I pan
.. ladlr, or
.. pour" T. S.i he IM,l'pffl.tw in.. lhoe h
_ ...rI "" .. min ...... unl.h
...!..,ur he,r arom;I
8.-\.. I cUI' ~50 milh
01 .he chi<:l.en I" I. 10 Ik rOM""II'" ami
t'fduC"
II II II. k ....rnrlit ....
C), '"
... ..........
..",dl. (~"'Ily hut
Iii. ,he "'.
I,td JU!f, ..

-en,

t<>!,.., III 1M Sloek.


I Se... he lu h ....... h _ ~,nr
II '"
,he..........np. Th.. ~ ......1 ,hea he r: ileMO and \av ~
...wty 01 w.y...os dar
t uri
II
~ :.

-"'AOAST SADDLE OF VEAL.


11
_

....... " .Jnu.....o ~n ............. pat""! v, no Joubr, b.-o


8Ul

is .... '"y

.oLofJ:lablco,n ...
) Th..

-.d.
'"

-".",,-,

~".M "

"

Y 'l'.. n.l ...... u

... oM u

".o (n

~ur;r,nl_ l l,ho , J~ ..1IfVI

Ih ...... IM'I'.,
ha
:k11..
, ... h
lin .... >II ",r h..
anll
llr 1".11iuyn 111'* ~I ou :tV ' M :,>;, ... h AI "1C 1\\..1
..... ) ill' ri -.I ,.\.):.'1 It Y"u b
un.n",mro:i. 11or.. 11

or ... -.:

10

iW:lUI

<""'"

,....

"

.o

. c l , 231

......
~,

...

.... ,~ co ,

--

UIIV'''.'

- ,-

.,.
.,.

,..,Ill

-~

"-ebN 'II............. ,)," F


Iic-.

hr,,,, c...... I,,1 nof ,,, cuI

lO"'\-"I,{:"I heflapeolT:.oth ..... ...-d.e


10 ,h~ lo'n
1.. on each lode C "",

f.,

,...o~

...,h.,d.. oI" h.. u.d


n
III .. 01'
~
....
10 ...... 11~ ......
i"..... 0l'~"
s~ .... " ..~ SInpi' In th ..
pal ror.i.. _I'UO"' .... h :Iw
>I.and
... .,.J oJidoe I ~ 1 ) die., no Itt-aM u

n.&I

...,..,ti"

:w m.

..00

3. SN.... II ....1Ie an p~ II.


~"
mmm. p. SI J.. ''''0 .h.. OV1:"n .nd 'O.ut lor - n
t.r---d .rod Inn II
Ik
_n to 500"
........ l' In

,,,,ern;d

C'mp...tu",o 1$

Iw.....c", ..

,UK" II>
.. AI ... :III'

10

"'"

T~I

he

1 rMi

1<

'C). If

F (.

bum... I

any ~
enl rJ

1:Z;o

p.o.R

h.. rout 0 ... " .","n,1

"I_y""h.lum,numfoll

h.. ,..ices ,he pu


_
""' .... all
...,..J,",
..
"
h... bo om 0' h.. p.o.. It h..) h,...... 1'0 011
11111 fa, It 111M.
I he 1'OUI'1If
Of'II.., ... ,. ar
boil down u,..
! Ih.: u.... .1<. II .." Iadl" 0 ....d d an h.. I"I"od AI
.h
Xl...~,
.crape up
po
...~II
""OO<.I.. n 0[>00 ,......
) h
I &1 SIr
u,h
oU'V'e II.. N I l '
bo. cut",,, (>
d... 10
dK'
.. I.h .." &rv1 . ' ...111 h.. kn
...11 ..
,yIhww; .a\O"f I Icftfth J
h.. 10 5\
, ...., YOU"
"I'
~.....If po k .. p"'"' ....
"",,ond .itk. T,
he _ k _rar
'Ve tI
-loon "" .. """

'""""'""..

.t-.,

..

,h..

-.

....

___ ROAST RACK OF' LAMB WITH NATURAL JUS


........ ~ofa

...

hn.~
b.~......

"'P In

..

n;

t'

,h .. ,\

-poe"
,,".m_1 Tl or

1'1 IHMftllhe

pr< _

In

,,1 ...., 1 1 -

an?:JUt

.... pork_."..,I ...


II

..,1. ..."h ,he

YI

1ft

n..,

lop Th ..
01 hr JU.
,. 0Ir mon.f
Jc.,Iar:

._nd

....

aJ... be. rnl


d

- ."".

, .... -.J<lk

..

",,0 ,U 'N,(OURH

HRv, N GS

,.,..no:'" .... , I ",mD

... ...n

....

,,0<1.>

.,.-,n

.omD

"II,ml

'"'

~I~ta,_

51-" .....' 1 cuI ontO

.",m '

, . I ~t

I. S~a""o lhe 1;I1n4 "oJ ,,11(1'"


",-rn to, ~"crF (230"C).

It

10 "O"'~ In '<>O;>1n ,emperalure. P'eh .. al tI,..

1. :,;p"'.,,1 ,h~ I"",b 'rimmings or .. ~\\. "'e,,' ,"-er Ihe OOtiurn of" ro.aSling pun
ju", lorge enough 10 hold Ihe ,,,,ok !lnd ro.a'l unlil lightl.\' bro"med ... I",u\
30 ",inute"
,~ PIA...... Ih" r..,:k on lOp 01 1"'= lrimm;n!" (thi~ b.a ... 01 trimminp ,. ,all~J "
/;"'f'lI<'I .. nd slide inlO Ihe ovcn. Roul unt,1 'pringy 10 Ihe lom'h, .. boUI '-!'5
minutr.... Loot resl.loosely eov~rCtI wilh atum;'lUm foil. for 15 m;nlllt'S.
~ _ I'll! Ihe roa.<nng pan on 101' 01 Ihe .Ion' and pour o,e." ~up (250 mill;.
lile.. ) ,,1'bl"Olh_ Bring 10" boil and b"il umil a b"O\\T' ern>! of ~aramdi.~d
iuic~ form. on th .. <"OiU;!ing pan. Pour out any li'luid lin Iloaling on lOp
l),.ogl"U'Il!;lin with Ii cup (250 milliliters) or brOlh aod scrape up th~ juice.
J{"IICC"t Ih" ear"",eliMli<)n ,UI "';"'.1' li'nel nil pr.au;caJ beror~ deglazing .. ji.
n,,1 time. PaO$ the jUb in" ..aUI b"'''''1 jh~ Iilhle See the pholosraph in d ...
"lor pl~le'

ROAST SADDLE OF LAMB WITH NATURAL JUS


\\'h

..... n\' or us,,~ enamo d 'i,h \ r -k

01

me ll, bot ;, lamb, ..""J.

0,

I' -I.,

m~

fO'l!e!lhe mwt dram"" cui. tho ,Idl.. Th" .... ddl, , 10 c d,,"n
on
llI1imal. belo" th~ ribs, The nil I""k. in Ian "&gl.Iely lik~" !IIl,]dl" I>~,,<e
il h. ,~, 11", long ':~nter .etl;"" with n..'I'" h.. ng;nl! down the ,;d,',.\l.an.l' "', ipes
~'alll"r p,miaif,\' boning Ih" .addle, .. ulling "I' ,he 10;"5 in the 1lar,l,,'!""" n>;H
'nil', ~nd "'''''ng Ih, roa.'1 in ruunt! m(',\"I];o",. TillS ",~,bod i. p""blc,,,,''''
b.u.""" ,he ta, anti gri.!ic corH"i,,~,1 in Ih .. 11"f" .luesn'! !'~t coohd ~n"ue-h I<l
"ndet _\ 6,,1I"r appruach i. 10 use 11." ,,,,,,,, ,'oo",in~d in ,h.. 11"1" 10 au~m"nt
,he,
and th"" ~Ii. ,. Ih .. l"i" in", 1"",11 round. ur. with grr.,j J, "n
.... I
inl(, I"irs. Since m.. n,- L""h ,s ,,-.,,,-, u..,J "' h,,,-ing ,mJ" ... tor
wi ~..dd ,t' lamb, ;1 h Ipi ,<>
.he nl brr ,I It ,ul d .. ~Ctt h
~onh :\...... 1Qn _'\ ..". Pnx u<>u .\ ..." "U Of" .,,,,,,r bu h

d' ,

i...",

233

---.---.

y O! lO

.. . . ,. (0

.- '. ....

-S' U.V')lGI

W!'IlI ,,.. 10'1" 1


~

,..,..
',

-- .....

~,.-

..

oK

..... fJIf""" Inymo stIAd


,...,

~,

,,-

-~

till ..

"

'--

,,' 1

f'O

....

CUI ,h oM or Iwo ril,. Ih~1 un,,o,o ~t1,uh~d 10 ~arh ...Ie Q lho .....
~w-.r from ,h~ Io,n by 1"11,,,,,,,,, "I"n, Ih~ 1n ... I~ of lk n ..,' be.
knif~.ndlhm "'lIi""h,.,,,hwhcro ,h..yJo ,ntlel.
Co:
l1.ra.o-:l

fn
hr ..... Ie.
n ,~~a_,.I",,,,heral" .... n..I'.byll ",,,11 ublok ,fe.".
e ...k or f' 0: me.., CUI dw __ ,nl Iin .. bo
onch C
'.\bo an no bofc r It .., prehN! tI. we:
-4z. 1'- (- ,. Spr...
he lamb tnmm, p. )ilIOn." j ,;Iori,," an. roun pa.t alarp .......
bold II e -JdIe. an rau' lor about 'j mi, 'n.
-4 . ~,helM'n. .. bod Ndn ..."J. ... I'&f pepper. ,\i:-, ..O,
.... t...
lore
~"'. pI. 'I "I' 0 ,1-- In """""",. Rou,
:ilthe.....IIrm \0 ,he ,<>",1. or .. "W;II thermometl lIud. m'O "
," ,}", Ia
11:,. 130"f" (!;O" .~.'Tl. Tr.. n.E'er II. ro;u\ 10" pl .. n .. r. CO\
.....It
""'h alumin
l"il. .....1 k.-ep " ," a .um I' ac..
Eumi~lIe-.ci"flpa.rlo_
II ,lefth..... ,.raJ uti
fOt-..
a ....... c:I'1Dlo-dWlOIl
:ofllw .. If h..yh .. a,pour
:hIf.. ~
hI'!in, he trimm"... '0 plan. .. .. 0 ren mt:: r IlOl M>iI
rcw ...... :of lie MO'. un"ll ........... _.,.. .. d form" "USC
6. ~ ,he
10 he par aM
Jo-n Iii <.......plHdv ....apt .....,
"" I
1")5011\>
>en)
bn hl1t "'.. pon ... boiIiroo.."fl.
...
.... 'he,MI ",,",'hoeM' no.rt)'cou.
lIuln. nriJ"
,.e;.
1M an} ,'" ",Ie-.l ny I ..... ..,,..,, :nr and d.~".-.rtJ. _ ,md
mill,hlr,,) or b 'DIh. 110 :i<-n 10 c"rii.l'" ;'Z<!" wcond
IloJIathe """'''''''' hr.d" Sc: ."" t!. boll;om 01 ,he ""' ....,h.. .,..dn
.dol
'\u'DW. ,,,,d k, ,h "rnll..
rio no mo.-r ,hall.
,;
" .... n Io.e 11...
Wh, ... n ,h. I;
Ja,.,
J or.. 10 yOfr lib

'0

'0

'0

boii

,1""

'n.

.",\ I"'J>prt

8r"';nrl~j"",c.r, r: '-'I
:lwlftodo.ri

.........

h", ... Mn"""

I;',,ialion
_..... ...."" ..., but'r'
~ ~I

234 I.

I'

........

...........

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....... on ct..u..

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r' rl ' rO \l' III 1)\1 I .\1'
1
t ItO
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I.nd
...............,

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n,..

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.hn .r '~'" '"
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01,

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,., ....- old ... hlllq....
L ...... 1 a .10;.-....

alo o.. rruundnl wi h '4


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1M J'Jl ..... nn ~ .,.,...h,"I and .,..... '''lI 0' I>f"........ ;'1......., &'1.....
....... M..
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boo
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a ....... ~,.
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or ........ ~.t>
y therr Ft..vor.
F .. II!po;uhrd
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ampi.,
pN<1 ... Iiquid ia
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:he
,.. (hn. 1M di"'n I
hc-tween _p ~
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l!.o
oflell porlt) ..
Iy
.....w wtll Man y lc...a. MKh -...
}OWOr" ""h,.... ... batanno 10 lIe~..J
.nJ if hn" :lo nO! cvonplewty
..t. .... ou........ nd,. ~u.d ...1 .... h,..I"hllv h"l.en and ~onln )Ulr body 10

....

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os.

.......IIN n nemrnll fI'


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:Lun~nl;oJ !'o..d ...I d,.hn I has potin
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f.. "3ur
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:krio .".. ~
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",
he pol.. (.. u b ",I and ......... Of
.. ill .rr >r<'f .... h II
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M.Ie... bn h, lo
por.
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flln
en "'''',iOIftC'.p
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and Ii hed ..., haw
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ndet-!
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LIAISONS

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""O-"ATICS

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rI HAL rL"VOAIHGI
GAAHITUA[I

Gori.
l.obIo.p for p
p

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'0_ L'A'IO" .. NO .00.

236

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1'.,.....,1..... -, h.., .plC feu .rr...... IMbo..r ....

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l<'I~i,,;ng fruit ~",J ,imme" gcnLb' for III mio"ws. C,"tly r"m",,~ tht Irui, WI h
,k""mer or ~ri.ler and .... "'.".~, ,n ;. howl, wh,le )""" boil down Ihe po.ch"lM liq
u,,j until it ia ~.,'rupy. I'ut Ih~ fru,1 I",ck '" Ihe ~.\"rllp and "miner for "'in "I'ul Lh~ 1",,;1 ,n Sierile j;on; "nll pour ''''l'r the ,yrup. The mo.tartLo ,J,,,ukj kc p
in II.. "Jrige.... tor ror w~k .
~

Green Sauce
:\ 'I\lick lri~k !'or milking th;~ ... uc~ i$ '" u .. 1>o1L1~J lTkIyonnai...., ... ~ h"..e, WI
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..... ,'." I", p,,,p.,.ed :"lIh uu , pI'dlln'nnt:" browning.


1'..,,);mln~I)' brow""'':' ,I".,. h"w",~.". "nl''''''"~ ,he .:olor 1>1' the I'''~''ing Ik .
""I .. nd. cW ....... lly tI th. .. ,,"n,",~ ""'IIN;,I,I,. M... h ....... 'ned .... w..tl. ,,ill Stv~ Ihlr
....1 ",,,,,t ... r ',~"'" ... mr",hal m ....... "<>"'1,1"", 1t..,...T. l"'tiall'Town",!! _100 rot
1<'-" ,he .hr! 'he "f'~rt"J1l'Y 10 n"", Ihe mUI ....,h,ch "'ill help [,in,j 'he li""h .. 1
h'I""! ",.,h"u' I!',~,ng"" no"t:' I....'r. Il',""n,,'f!: cube. of' m~.., I'm 'IrW H'<I,m"
"3'" ~m"onl <>1 ('''''' "".! .""e"l,,,". U .hr me;U '0 co!d ( I , "dd~1 '0 ,h. I.,,, pan
,II ~I "n,'" or .h~ pan or put u.~<! 1m b",...",ng .. no, ho' ""ough '0 h,,~in wilh.
Ih~ ",e~1 will ,,0' bro,,'n pro~rI." And may e"ell r..t"lLw li<!uid "nd h"gin '0 h"il
in i,. II",n ill''''''' Tho< has a tI,""""",,; "n~<" "n lh,' "'cal. <0 il i. J.,..,,, '0 ad.1 ,lor

,,,.;\,1<.>tlte pan jn "'<Tt'",ell1~, "1){lU!,, '1\lart~t III a 'im~. to pr~,"en, ~,,"Id~n <'1,,-,1.
1I1j; ur ,h~ po~n. Care ~houhJ, ;\bo bt' I.. ken wh~n IUrning ,he me",. II' ,I i, IUrncd
n.,ph,.za.rdl., or.ul "' on<'e. 11 may cool Ihr.!",,, too quickly. cau,;ng the jui""," 10
,..,I~ILW When brownlllg Jarg<- .amOunt, nl me~,., il rna... be neeu",,}' to ~h.'nll"
",m during browning SO th.a, ,h.. c<lTam~liZlt.l )UK<" do nOt ''''''rhe.., an,1 hum.
If,oi.>Im''':i f.i4uiJ. a,uJ A"""'lIJi~ 1't.'1dQbfr..
.\\0 Itening li<joiJs lor stews AnJ bra.i~,1 m.. ~'~ h,"'e ,raJi'io"aU,\" e"olv~

Oil' "I
n<"Slity. c;..'ml"ns h"v .. long u ...! ,',n"If;,r; ,h<' French. win .. {or cid"r in ~"r
m. n.1y), the Irish h"ve had 10 ....1." on wdter (wi,h po'",oe$ ~ontribu'inl! bu.ly):
~nol CaribbeiLn cQOks sometime. U"t nom. s."",~ ret;ipes it"gm"nt Ihe,, liquid.
,,ilh "arious i,vpe.s of lomalae5. l'urt:C8 "f ,"pc..... picklc$ or oli,'t'$, _,,,d. of CO",",,".
Mod. S'a"dard aromal;" \'e@ctill.lci-coni'ln. (nhen ,I "..Ide.! wi,h .. dLl"~ "r
t"'oJ. by, and carrot- -a"'" lI<>",elim~5 rcpl ..c...! nr .augmen'."J will. gMli,
turni" .. or chile5, .Iepe-n.l;ng on n"lIon nr "'trion. The cotnbin."ions of moi,ten .
.. '<!'Uoll and .... om"ri.. 'egtt~t.l ... u5.,,1 in ate"'$ "nJ brai.e<J m~..~ a .... ' ...'
,lieu. which is pmb.ab1y why no b :0,'" or ~!~. t.a;tes exacdy like ,nOl1..,

&"flUtG",."i

11,. h""quel gami ha5 be,ome SO SI"n,L.....liu.J Ihal 'heh often .d,! " 10 11 "I"'"
..-i,h lilllt, Ih!>oghl as 10 h\>w the herb.< meld wilh the ~le"'''''''lher coml'",nenl>.
lS,~ 1"'11" 51 Inr" b.u.ic ""r.ion;n ,1iI1 .. ,..n' .i"". ) Rareb' .... ill 1...... I~y. ,hyme.
'od h".\. I~"I'-(he '"",,<!~r.J "OInponents of" Iw"quel Sarn;-d".h with Ih~
",h .. aromatic iogr~d;cnl5 in ;, M~"'. bu, ",It"n II Oouquel gllrn; <'"n he "".J [0
go t Mt i"di,';d",,!;,\, "ntl.l'''''''',;<>l1. "";1), Ih ,,,Idilion 01' o'ner h,-d,., ["rl.1
F... 'l<:h ...,.. ip I ",hen ~1I,'d f"r b ... it an.l hYlloop in a bouqLlet !"rni; h~li..Jn "n<i
:rtl~n F"'h.h cool.s ... ill "hen ,,,1,1 m~n"r.,m. wild th,,me. or oR',anc In
~I X'co.
e of cin""m.,,, .,i.k will "n"-,, n ... malt, "$ wa., ;n,<> Ih" \.""'1" n
I!'Mn.\' ,j; vel
~ :non .,'un .. J ... ~pll. ,h.. l1 herb .. .,hen .,mlM'nJ ,he.r
"'e am 1'I.;,bo", e omhi""lio,
... I1,'On. nger. ino.1mon, "nd her _p,crt..
,

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,he "'1111\1... " ,,,I Hp'"ht.,., " .. r\'~ ,on,1 ~P~ ,h., will ..
IItII or

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.oj clop...
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hni....i ",e,,'

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at

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ok

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pre-leth, of
f'VUIf ~ ..~ ........ hy tMUo, For Ye&l..
-k ........
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AItOlolATlC VEG[TAaL[S

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""c"
,...........
trouFFtE OF VEAL SHOULDER CLOD
a'sln'suu .... m...llHli". II b ~ w, .. e ".DO:
.. nu ' .... n ",,*, unc"'~M. "'It~ ""'...., ~.
In
ok., T..... Ih~ Mock IS .. dJ. l
,i
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j, CM I"" :Iy
otaJI>O ~ Jun I~
oj",. 1f :>0 mu M<" .,.j,Je,j al II "'Ji""'''S , ....
....
...allw.... II
VOl" Jf. poo.ch
quod ar:"J
.... Mil"""'.
f_ l. M xi; ...... :!nt. I ,ulen .. ,II c.ar

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.. ''Way p"

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251

3. P!..c'c Ih~ ,,, ..1 , 1".ul,J~r dod on Inp or d,, vcge lubl ... and "O()~ II On all aide.
on ,h~ .wv~ ",'<,r;, low h ..al lor I,,!<> ~o ", i""I~~. ""hi" ,_ a pal .. &nId~D
[,,,,,wn h", n,,{ ,1M!... ,\ \""-"wb ,I,,. pre- I."", ,h e o"en 10 :;[,(T'~' II;S"C) .
.1 ,\ dJ cup (I;!" mill'I""""') o f , I." m",.. "Oll. '0 ,he hol1omol'h .. ",,~
Turn .1.., h~." nnW high .. nd red m'" 'I." ... "' ~ " , a gl~z" on ,I... bcn. OlJI ~
Ih <:"''''''"1, . .1,, "u, ..I1"" ,, to ~.. r" md,z"
S, ,'\ dd ~ ~ "f' (! ;!b l~illilil ~rs) or ,he r" ,",u;,,,n]! ollx:k 10 ,I... c..... rol. and
bnng " ",,, . 1" ", 511""'''< (In top ,.1 Ihe I love. Add ,h" bou'!oet garni. Pla.:
t
,h~ ~"B>c rol,. t' tll' r ",d. '" the ov"n .
b. &s.c ,h" mea' c,'cry 10 minUI ..,. II' ,h" br"i"n! li<Juid evapon"~ and
.Ian~ ,,, ,'aran,e/i,,, on d,, oono." 01 ,h" cas..,r"l". add anoth"r II Cup 1125
millili,e ... ) of' "01.'1.. Con,;nue in ,hi. "'''.r unhl ,he "eal is done (_ Note),
The ....1 is don,' ",hen Ih .. iui~es run dear when Ih .. dod ;.. poitlOd ill tlr.o
cen,er ",,,h a .ke... er. at an inlernal I"mperilru~ or 131;" to HOOF (:'7" 10
60"C). ,h...",me iI. a roas'. Thi. take. abuut 45 minutes.
/ . Tran,!;"T ,h~ me", to iI platter and struin the hraisi", liq uid, Skim off ""y

tat Iha, Il"'lIs 10 Ihe surface of the slraine<lliquid. and sel'Ve the
liquid ov"r the meat or in a sauce boa. alongside.

~mailli"l

Not. ; The ;us for an ~toulTff is best when t~ cooking liquid is kep_tIy
,he veT of cM&fIleJiz.ing. The amoullt of stock that must be added d..riac
Ihe I;u;t
of cooking dependJ on the oven lemperature and rhe aIIIOIIDi of
liquid .eleased by the veal.
011

.,ag..

POT-ROASTED VEAL SHOULDER CLOD


~

1, fie ,h, n"'" j",,, A" n"n .h.. ~, I'e"h" .. , ,h. ',,'en '0 :;.<>rrF 117[,"(;).
~. s.:Io:<' $" ",.,1 ,,,_rool. ,h", \<',11 ,U,I 11,,1,1 ,Iw 1;"tT ~hnu]dtr chI.
, (omh"'" ,h~ ono"". arr"'. 'Ie,:,:... n.1 m"~1 1J'",m;ngo on ,he ca...,,..,I" 1\tj,J
..:up ("II n"lI,h ... ,,.1 "I ,he danl;.,.] hUlle, .Lnrl ""'eal ,he ".,.bJ..s
","~I tr,n'''''''ll'' 1<>, .. I",u. 10 ,nmUlt.. unlll ,h~ ,tgo-L;ohl.,. an- 'T"",I""",,,
~. l'ul Ih. ,ic"] ,1.""1.1,,, dod On .op ."1 ,h, "cg~tabl"."'e;01 rnIX,,,,",, ftn"~
lK"~)' p,,,,, "vN' ,he r.""","ng d"rlf",, hUller,
5, (<<,'cr ,h" ,~,"~r"I, .,,,.1 pi"""" In th" """n. 11","" Ihe veal w1Ih Iht hUller
In the 1"''' ""Iry Hll11inu!Cs. ",hile"],"<'ki"g ,h"coltdil;<>n "r ,I,,, iu" IIlh.
,c!!,<,.thlu .. nd I"" >I.U' 10 brow" On ,he llOll"m of ,he ca ..,r"l" durin!!,
,/.e fi ....' 20 ""nuu's I" cooking. ,urn do,,"n ,h. O'Cn. lL on ,he "'her hand.
Iht "eal i~ silli"E ;n p<tlt colorles.li'IU;'!. lurn up ,h.. o"cn. (h m;w be
n~r.\" 10 ;,dju,' the 0"<''' le"'p"ralurc 1I<"'.. r"J ,imes during ,h" ~k
Ing.) The "~al ".1.,0" ",],eo the iUL~"~ roo dear" hen ,he dod j, p"hd 'n
,be cen'~r ",i,h a ,kewcr. at an imcrnal,ernpcrature
135" 10 140' l' (5i"
'0 60"C). Ih .. >OlIO. "t .. ro,\.sl. This I~k~s al""" I hl,>ur.
Ii. Tr~n.f"'r the rne~t 10" plnuer. /\dJ Ii nIp (l'll> millili,enl
.",,:10 '0 ,hc
"""",role. Sim"'er il umiJ il ca"'m"lizu. Do ,,<>, pour oll,h" b""N.
~ Add th~ .... maini"g 1 ,: CUp5 (3iS millilil".-.) of ~Iock 10 Ihe cu"mdited
jui<'~ "nd brin! it 'u a sl<>w ,immer f"r 5 minukL
S. Strain ,he ju~ imo a ""ucepan and .1..im otl" ""CU" la., with a I"dle s..;"I'C
,he i"~ o\"er II,, me,", or in a ..au~. bo.:.l at"n!, id"

or

or

BROWN-BRAISED VEAL SHOULDER CLOD


Bro'm-br,U, .. d m"al~ ,In.' cooked un,iJ the n,u""l. lihe .... bruk d"'",,,. tca\'in@
,h rnut tender. \\'],"n thi. ", .. thod ,. carri,,j to il.I"~'caleXlrem', ,I j~<'"lI,.J a
f4
rr. whi~'], ,"'pli ..... ,h,' mea, is ... lenJ~f
II can be cu' wi,h ,J ~S"",n

,!W,

.,[t

B TO Iq SIIVI .. q,

~.ac~

'foIntC CI,

oeal

"eo;. (MOwed

""Ide< tl~
n.a.oPI!fd

, ""
, """"
.0:

...

"":hiI:.~
""$

I.-

1 pood

SOC Qr.n'S

4 to '; poun\'

l,e to 2.3 k""Qrarni

mfo'.,m

1 m,,"

'med .,en

1~'

"alk

Il0l"0'' "un, .$,!*>CIIa..


.~.

~.'M

"~tet." t>rc'''~ ""Ul ", ......


"lrQ~ bo"qut, ""rnllN<l~ 511

quarl\

~rn

SUlik

ISOq,an,l
,:, .. 'ml liters
ilok"lO

>(
.mchll.S""
':',nm)MI"II"'l'"" I~ tnl's",
. ';unl._....",I ...... ..! wLlh the ,h"pS.... I fa.rl'{" l'o>~r "nd r..tng<'r"t~ I." :'

("'lh.. ",,,b.,k,nh'"
'<13 i,"lJ',

,.t[~A.' .... ,

,.u,"

253

~'. Ol','n the ~h""ld~, dud "n,! 1",1'

It

O>u,. "n,' ~"lIi,,!! hOilrd. In... n ,he

~:;",::'~ ;'~~~~~:.~5::r;::: ';',~:,' !~.:r:';~c,!:~~':~c:~~~~"I:;~ ;'t~,,'


r
(;;.,'"Cl.'

Ih~ I"rded .ho"I.I"r ,,1 ... 1 ,nf<>"n ~"en .h.. p"'. I'reh~al .h~ o~~

"0

i.:l
;O-p

Sd~.'1 an ",.1 "... ~'~rnl~ ,h ... , ""II I'''' hol'l. ,he "l'<l t.h"ul,ll'"r, 10.:1. P",
~h"pr<.J ""ion. ~... ro'. <.INy. m~... ' 'nlnm'ng... and dari'i,~1 bu" ... 'n ....
~d...,rul~. Set rh~ ".,.J ,hnuld"r d ... 1"n '''I'
-I, 1("".. the .h"uIJcr, "n~n,,,~ . n ,he ,)"cn for.appro"imatdy 40
until it i, ,gnld~n b...m n "ntl ,here " " ~ ~;lrarnehed mea. dripping. "n tho
I,,",om ,,/ .h" casserole, Turn dow" ,h" O"en
300" ~' (15(rc).
__\,1 .1 I C"I' (7.~O millili' e!") ollh e "' ~at ""l'~ tn the blll 'om " 1', hcea.".. .,,I.
I'I~"" 01,,, c" ...,crol" on top " I th 5tm'c on h.gh heat. I k u on high u" tillh;
.u",k ",Juc/l.> ag latc and 'ilr,,,,,d' ~e. a" th" bOI, om or ,h. <'_,0.1.
6. hlJ ,h e bouqul'l tprn i and " "" ugh or ,lot'" ..,m:lining SlO<'~ '0 fum~ h..Jfw.,
up the . id .... of .he meil ' . Brin!!" i, ,a 01 ~Iow , imm er un ' 01' 01' ,he ,1<"... C.
,he <....,1"01" with ~ . 10 ..", a f alum inum l"otl Iha, i$ prtssed do".n in ,he Id
dl~ I". hi,h cau;c. liquid ,0 conden .., ;lnd drip d""'n o,'e, lh~ rne.t. 110 ,
u....t ... 1from the inside), and I'U' on ,lot lid , PIa.;:" the cas...,..,I.. in tl.. O'tft
i . .'h ,hr ...,al brai ..... , h"ck .he c....., rolc "" "I")' 70 minUlI!'S '0 mah ..
li'luiJ is no, boiling. Con,inue c,,",king ,he "cal in this "a~' fo, 2 3 h, l.
until a . hwet in"""ed in ,he I",d , lide. in dnd ou, wlIfo no thi.!.>",...
S, (;.rcfully ",move the m~," (al ,hi~ .t.tge il " "NY fragil,,) from th,. be..
ing li'l'.IId, and pili"" i, in.1 d~an o,al l"~>crole. Tum ,h~ ove~ I""'k "1' ,t>
.i 50"F (l l S"C)
9. Strain ,he braising li<jui.! dnd [,Ial'e il in a $au.. cp.~n <m top ,,r th, IT"".
Bring it 10 a simmer and ~k;m "If .1n.v froth and fa, tlw.l 1100 t IlI'~ -ur.
f...-c . Con,inue s~imming .",<1 ...,dlll;ng Inr 20 minutes.
10, Pour ,h,' ...... Iuc..-d an,1 d"8T....."J In-ai,i~ liquid ,,,,.,r the ,'<"aJ. .n,11
.M
wal. u"""".,cr<!. in ,h.- "'en. a..\<. th" ~'eal ~""n-' 5 minu'~s "i,h lh~lt.tt
rounding li'lUid. Continue 'n ,hi. W''.V until ,he b:.:u'ing li'luid h~. ~ IIG
'_I!"Upy c""lliknn' ant] ,lor v"al i. ~hi"" .md redtl"h br<>'o\n.
J I Tr'IIl~I .. r ,h., veal ;001 pb,<" or pl ... ller ,,~d <,ra", ,he brOl;.ins liqu,d

""".t

'0

'0

'0

Not&: l'nli~~ 'oa.;, ... whit~ urai,.,., "n,l po, ro"",,, ",hi,-h rannot I... nh""t ..
"itl""01 ,.~" ins ,hem to "\""""''''~' .Ii,~. "I' h,'";,,,,) m.-a" can I,,' rcl .... Md ,,, "C
drr in a ."",Il."no"nt 01' bnli";n~ 1;'lui.l ;n a "''''ered ",ut~ pan.

- - - - ROUND OF' VEAL tTOUvt


'11

rn.

"Ih "",n "r."


Jd ...1 :., lh. III 'al I. in, II', a, ... l.n .h sway .. b"rt~r, f
......"" po...- no ri.k ,I bU~"'''8' The..
. ,,,.uc
,1'"11" wh,., haN"" 10 01 ruou., 5U, h '... ,.,,1
,nd' hfn

t'

"11 ...1 bu

d..,
254.

AU~CI

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t:.oo<

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dca ....... n .......".. II .... """"
..
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el" ::Iof~
h.,h .....
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.... _ .. If
.....

......... ~f'."" ..... It,on.t

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y ...... ofn
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eo , .... "..
"" I' ........

",Iw.f""nd ""'_

,.... ..... /inJo. b<-ot _~."''''_.' Mo"


: . ... ~ "'n~."", ... I..r ..Itlat
......... J'"" pound
.h.. capon . nd

--

,OU U.~INU

,-

~~

2.;.~_

~~

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.~

.....

-.

I.M_,o.-I501 (:W-C

'.J.eIM(;t.polT M". "'.....p


witb tM _
... 1 on'
,,11 .....n
'tJWf\1 ... d .ny julCft i, I"l'le_ CM'.~ift on .... bon
of
~ !)qI.u.; , .... p.t-n 'I'1th ,I> .. b ... "h or "'.'rr, Rnen'e II
liq I he JUL
R
,,,' Ihe pan. IA'.' he OVltn .., 11., .j!,11 I' {23O"C) I.... I... oPt.
..... _
the "eal round will. ... 1 .,1<1
.o....'n ;" own htlh he...
...... ~. (30 mill,li,en) o' , .... b\Jlte. unlll b...... ned on all II
p.,. .." ........ ". po jlW Larp el>ou,h ~ hold ,.....1 po.. r over
e
an ....1
R,_. ,I ",.1 10 .on inl........! _P"'at "" :If I~ F
"C .. II ;...J""" will.., h -. ,. 5rt. and bome Ii"." 10 II It
h. r
.. .." .Ii 'ItO ion..bow!or edj_.... ""' o..... n temperaNn &C
"'""'" ~ .. ha, Ih .. l al do I Lo In' t.:;e ...... Ioo.rIy wi-' Jumu-:
and kt lit rat f. 20 1fI..1
""' &1"\"1.

_ .. .an ......... 00 p"l In. p.ot

...w..

'1

pel',,,,, .. oo

"""ft'.

, bu. 0

osso au CO

WITH JULIENNED VEGETABLES

,...,

I,

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..., of.

bet""

...........
_'
~.he....

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left ,n

OJ

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ta"h hut
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>tn he t
Put lu ...... buc boo;
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~. an( brillf
S'm .....' few
iW'I MId..
1M' br. (h '" tI )OUq ,.am,. \<1
h..
'V ..... I~ I.m"",. nd
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b
to
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...
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re
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~ BRAISED SHORT RIBS


...

.... .... 1f"O<'na"_2- ,....


~

r.

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mc~ .......... '


,~ ,.,,) '"'-",

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ml
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.at

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-400"
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uaoly .. ,.ncI
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P
I., ..t-1
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P ....... M br
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_ ..... " _1,'_ ,'''


,.. "'"'py .....ld ,I>ttl: "
CHINESE- ST'I' LE BRAISED SHORT RIBS

'1'1'.

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uln Ulty,,,,

ute. SI'II'hot

...........

II ...bI ..,.

....
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200"<.:).

Place the rib. on h'P of ,h~ CMT'O .no:! 0


In .. III"","
double ~ III
I ""'lid pll ..., h a lid tnmel.,.,,) U.ok.
h~..
Iii I"" - . . ,
;-own,
th~ fa. hu r~n,l~rel .on,! ,h.. t. h...... c.:lr.., oIiucl .. Ii ~ II"
Ih~
pol. !.lOW" "" and tilo( aN,bc lal. T"m" 'hf o..,n
3. I
.. d or 1nkJ
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11ll<i.....wl with ... he..
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'il I knile ..tid....... lin ,II ,he n"".houI
'So
4 lin I~o,",
konlo ...xrF(.1"(,.) ' .. at ... ' .... n
...... "'"
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II IIU ofl' &ltV I... an.! h oth lhat 11... ,. I 'M
R. '" ~
- ...
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5. u.J. e d ib. ,h-, <VL1, bu,; "w;,1 ,t.. I'''' b<1",J.
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I....
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:I.

.. let......

.- -

at-<

..

..

259

--e

RED WINE POT ROAST

......
.. "apiIooIW
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(~11un<'t'

.......'

.... ,.
,"'

....' ..,

"'''#0.11'

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s,.." .. I'...... \.uior


\ \ . ~._(;I.ace ,~
,u u ""

nr....,d IAAk

'Ih.~h.'h" 110.

h(lAna , ....... ,

R"''''II'~'''.-.It.
1'~.ar_n..uIC'f'lC'OCCh
s.,ucr ....1{;.n.dot
,rHU'" u ~

U'

I',u""" , ;:.~,""I""''''' 'WI

.-

...

~K SHOULDER CHOPS WITH

~~ITE WI NE AND PRUNES


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TI

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l

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10

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....

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........ and broil.. Bnnc I ..


h.. p&I and ;xw.r ,n
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1ben 'ftY lillw :I,n .......... l..-two .. wllll~ lIew.nd


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~ II .er1..I.o II :>Uf. it
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l.

7 \dd :be nloH'Yed marina&- 1"1 xl. II stock. and.1 npn


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CHICKEN FRICASStE
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'''f liquid nln. dry, I,.. it ..u ......llZO' on 1M bota- 1M ...... ..w
anothtr :0 cup (125 millilil"n) cl broch 01' _ _ . " , . tIM c:IIic:Ma
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CHICKEN WITH VER.JUICE. SA .....ON,


MEDIEVAL SPICES. AND MINT

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HICI<EN WITH TOMATILLO AND


...... ;SSORTED CHILE SAUCES

.
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,hi. ,I. h.
l' !>. II II.

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____ CHICKEN IN THE STVLE OF" A VATAPA

..... ...

PI"'~

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r-r..J

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rh,ekr" ..nd
t ..11 U!
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l'orr. .Iw h
le .. ne: the I0I"l aI f cook It
lor '"
.-\dd tl 10
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ocken brot! t t: ~n.
h,dlen
II; ,n. LaI
pan:nod
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..., I

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Su
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- - - CH I CKEN WITH MORELS


Th.

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II "h I..m_COW..... 001<
"nlll r. '11110
touc:h.
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an
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S,m
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br
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j.()'() II h.. liql l,n II ,.... ,.
,"""I, ...no
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,.... DUC
FRUITS
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_'''41 10'1""1..,.1,,, ....,ondpot ",h. ~dor..ed t.... ""'.....
..".th.. pol "t 1_1,,'1 hq."J ",nJ hol.l. tI ......, \\~;u.,.-.. e.
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,h b "fI , ..,nl, Th"", Hcam~"" ,tn<' .... , .00 m" h l"I"~1 tb.ir
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....... bI..
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~h (
produc .....",,13J muh.) b a _ ,I .. q.",-k, -",. anJ e&sy to or..,.....
I" ",<'11M .",nr a ..,1""".. ly la.p amouo . ofloq",d;',,~ 101" _ _ _
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h.tt, ...

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nol

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in t .......&/11 . .... . q.: d . II III ,all a"'OII n' " I ii'juid is uwd ,"" har,OII .. tIoo
It 01',11 II
ItaM( oaIy . . "".. &n.1 apt '- " II e IC bori... :-.I
{u Kl ... th<en :Ie S<'1"Yt'~ ..."lIth
.d

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int?...
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& ......:11 amou,\! of hquid
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_
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:\, :>Ihfr u. ru ",,,110,,,1 It" II(',1ml ''I mt..... """' ,aI,y
red,,~
>dr. ..
me.ol. In . i.allr .......,ng.,., :>I" & p,,'1 hl;oo:l<I... r) &10"1
an atlc I'q 1.. Th" .....ap: oed _ , ,I
h.o.k..J. or poor
I .....
,eneralcJ ",,,h.n ,I biot:. :n .1. &.1"""" oi
-.at_:>I' ~ ~

'''I liq:wi WI.

........

an<""""

A lA VAPEUR

___ POU l AROE


~tMm ..J

("bidw,

h
.... 10
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."t: "j..
""'_':" 'i'" j,)T .I"s jish (is'}:.?' "lIlli,,., ~
-.d .run~ at"j II,. llCk<en',;!Ift In 110 foIlowinc' ""i/O'" n <rid

.... alif'~ .ndc-r , .... I" Ioe-n. dun and.dJed 10'M '
.-I
t
an I -tllr-t ....ft( bl.w:k .,...t.lk-. bu, ,_"
,d," itbt

IftICh

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br.Jopn<l

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, '
_10-11 . '
" h wild "" I,roo"" d'ol'peeI and "I. ..:otd "",It, "" ... ,n
I.,..od
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,-

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..... J ......

'Iit~t

I. 1'",1 Ih~ InltJI~5; ehe>p "nd ..,"" ,I.~ p<""ling., Sli"., Ih~ Inlm .... "'ilh ..

J~I",n- ,n.<ncl"lin e .

~I,p Ih","'I",.,.."r. of ,he Irull1~ .J;,u "",I.., Ih~ _kin of the thigh~ and
;""....,. of Ihe chi~k~ns.
reu ..
chi,h"., cov~r well with pi.',,';,- wrup, and ,tore overn;ghl in the
rdr;l',,,,lo,' ('0 I'ennc~'c dt~ melU wllh d,, \rull1~ ilav"r),
~, 1>0'" Ihe <hichn ~1t>Ck. "he' ...,,,,a,ning In<llh' she,,", a~d the chetpred peel.
,ng' ;n", ,he 6011<>m of a ~ICilm"r lind hnnll Iu a .. mmer. Un"'ra,. the
ch;"k.". ;<1)<1 IIrrange ,h"m '" the ba.kCI Ollhc >learner and Cover will. a
.h..,1 "f crumplnl aluminum loil (,hi, makes a I1ghl~r ,;ea[) and lhe lid, It
IS ;mp"r~';'~ Iha, lhe lid Ii! l;gl"I.\', (Th~ uris-in,,1 recipe ..... Ied ,hi: lid un
wilh .. lUling f""'Ie or ilour.."d ",alrr.)

,I>"

5_ Sltam th~ chicken. 0'''''' low to medillm h,'nl for t j, hOll"". If any Meam
.",n.,o cS('ape from und .. r Ih~ lid. 'ur<> dn' 'n Ihe hUL Do nOI remo,"", .h..
lid durin,!! the cook;"g.
0_ C~n." Ih~ ~h;ck.,ns and ~er,"", in deep pia" a or wide soup bowls our
round~d w;lh th~ ~t"aming li'lu;d

...... POUlET "EN VE5SIE"


SlhW!uJ CbirJwl w,ilh Sluffu1 ,/lor..!..
f- nch n-g'''nal ~ook~ ha\'~ long '!~ilmed

hi,keno ,n Staled p;g,,' bl"dd ..,'1I.


"{'til,,, "~ in Fr.on,,,' ,-hoic

,\hn ~.nd.". \",,;"l;ons on Ihe d;,h ha,'" ,alen


""' reot.o. ... r.. n\s. L'nfonllnat~Jy.
I:;l\<'

...

heald" ",,!!ul"llonJ ;n eh" L'n;lnl S'al"" do 0<>1

Ie "f pig~' bladders (which in Fran~c are m .. ei,-ulously cl"ao"J). and

'\"''''('~n w<>h mu" IDilke do with Iran>p.ilI'rnt """n b..gs. ",hi"h are equall.>

'''n

hue !~ .. pjctur"sqll~,

l'hi. melhtxl ;. ",ualll' UoW wilh dt'l" ,Ur ;n!(r..JiCnlS ~uc'h iI' fresh mord
'rum.,.. and fo ;,' grllS. wh~se arom~ would Mtfh'r if t'ookl'fl in a I..s. collnd.,oollt
way, COOtempnr;,,,,. c<>oks havc alsn u""d ,he mel h,~J lor '-;'j>lllring the 1",,.!'lIltn

"I her)"

'

'lcD_. 5!hl"~5

,"

,M

6 k'Jo9rdm

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las
[J

283

S Ti' .\ ,\11' () \ \1 \T S

\/.haOOF
lor _
oed
u an ~ "OIIU,,,., . . . ,,~I"" ':or br_"., he eo noq. ..... .....-nu ;r,d. .n,-," ......
-choda. ,\\<'At .. hnl.u.....-J a~. which .........
for ,he "_"'I I,qu"I..,d .. ___ 11'01 ""h ..
"'M b&.. ~ po"
,.1 II,, I"'" "II.... h", I"I",J il",1 h.",I~ Ih~ "'~., ..\\ ilU, h
" . "
I, ...",,,J i" ,I" ."J" ,,,..I ",,,;,,,,,," ... hi, h lI . . . p _ n ' .,n.II"III~tC'I.
:b.. 1 '" pm"" lhO' .. .,'.. m"," ,,,,,,,,,,1<' "... "'lHh l"ltlkl of
ak
''''I . .hk to .,aplU.'" "".V III : 6 .... t-d 'Y.1o. ........ '""_~
B,..Jd
at'<
lie: l"8rrd~nll. ,uch .... h,........, aroma.
,,.,.tll....... J "P"'.... 1<> :b.. SI.......... l iot. _AI 'nc :.,. "'" Md I.....
",.,... I1.a,'O, ... '<> "'..a . K..... u can h .. f. ofUn p ....r... _
soo-h ....
prod...-u .11'...... ,",,1,", b..c.:o.UH " .. qt 1. 1Ih1....d. ot.uy 10 01'1&
In"'o-lwnonP .....b..i...,Iy!.rVU'll<>u",nlh<luid .....d lol ....... In ,h.. !..,.... " I, h" Ifurn ...,.h .h.. mealS 'X><>k in Ih ... bu.Io.", .. hov, "" hod""l;q
uiJ. Ihn
IUl!'eS
In
nl cun a.... Jf uM'<i bec... ... Ihcv AI d
In tw ~""'''' IIquiJ. 1I ........... m
" I 01 ""I' :I II ISM'd I" It... booOlll
_
n .. ill . lIhAMOUo.I.V.... e &nO .apl' n Ioe
IN bft",
.Ioe lfe&IYI'"I ""1- n... 1"1' iJ .n Ioen _ ..Iu d "."lMh
the

,oeti.

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.te.aJ .dmr.,.~, <>IIVff1rd

IO ..... ~

h I.' YmI.' ...

av" &J'Oil"h""

en a .aWl am.)lInl ",I liqUId. 11 ulled ~


_
do.
. - . . hat. 0 bot ...",,,hed 'oUTIlI!!} .0 Iho:- Ilqll><1
nm
uw:l bu'll
\noll
... f. I rn"'hod 10f" ..... m'ne: 1fM',.&!!I. Hp...<i....lI" ChlCk~", II .....
' I\f Ioq . 1 "

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rnu'~ .n . pL..t lC ........ , ,b.a(l>r a P'Csblad:kr)a1onc.1It ~


.......11(" t.q ;..til. n..... ... r.apped .... ,.. :o.aJ.td
poacW...
..... .... Iteam..
rated Wltl
, .... baa: n h......

A LA

____ POULARDE

"

VAPEUR

,\'l',un"J C/n'l'{l'tI
;lot'

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.......brd
tllea

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pped..:ier lie .,\'

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: II, 1011_ I ",.)Ii AI
'. Km and .adoW 10 ,he ~

fc

1 .......... ' ~ .. IT\& lleo. "'" ,he _t-I ..


.....thlre-ot ... h"e'ln. I', " ,hod ... t..
I'
...pa.. ,', I ....,.1 h.rt. M' h . . lA"o&IJ01! ( ...... " .J" pc-I u,..k. ~f". to '
1 '" ..., ........ cbopP" 1 "d l'~r.1 u<,,1e1 d,~ oJ,.," ~ I
h .. l ......

~"...

.rum

.nd he do

rr-t"j"""

wrll.
....1 hor, ,1"">:1,,1.<:...:1 ... ,.....
...1... ,,,J('''~Io. .....< . . . . .,,h~.
n.. "'.,.-.naI
ruuoh" ,,,.........., ... liq. 1 10k f
... Iflu , ... <><1,. .1 ..... Ii,
tu-

."
zaz ..

,e."'''

I ~ ,....

'n;
,.,. ........

-,

I ... ~ .. , .... peo

hop

.... SI,u

,tull

sI':..:~" .........""Iu

5 1..... ' .... hKk ...... ", r_

w,

,-

~~

... ilI.....
M

,.

......... .....:1

h"l.u". ",>._1 .., ......

. ~r '" .... "'" ,u ,'Cnn<' e ,he


WI h Ii " l r n"~DI"
~ i'
.. ~
..... 11"..1... Ihe ,ern'" , t '" me 01 , .... :I ,h~
,..,
.",. ,n'" ,h. ~''''''
..., .. .m.. r ..... b i"l1 10 .. mme, L'
....
c~ tiM. ,I unnS'" ..
in he' ....., I tI OIume, ..nd
'"

piedalu
um ..1 .h ......... 'JO;
...h IU':I ,'''' lid
ha, .....
Ii
rh ........ nal.... " .... !II .... Iid on
... Iutf p;tste of lou. and" .r
~ Sc
.1... ChKk"nl 0
.....e meJi
h ';It for
0Jn. J u
....
.uns I __ .po' from kr helid um .Icr. ~ hq; D" not n
,,"
..... _
:0010.'....
..... ofcn

,""11.1

:aC

o.unc,h.. ~ eI . . . :I"'.. e,,,<i~p


"",,,Jed ..."h he "" mH" ..., .... 1

POULET "EN VESSIE"


" , - , (II/u" ....th Stu./IN) .11",...l

ant

I0Il,,,""

~ " ' . ift rar .. , c'-

ha,,,w..

Un. '""nat . he...!,h""'r "f


:ln
h in .'~.ne. '"
m.l" 10 Ih I,. .ru.pu1

'- . .Ou,Ie..
""'*' .,.

OIlMl

hil

,,'

AtId ~

... ........,.. mpo

' .....

uluall., -w<I
ho '" n

,..u. . .
If.

cookl

... ,d
..

Ur: ,.,

at

J.,I " ......


' u.'
..,... , ~.
J lull. ,f~"
so"O\ll;.
.,..
Ih
ho.l
(P" ~",,' :-:-rtUtM

.,

II

. 18'

I. Tru.. ,h~d"d.~n

1. 11 ,h~ ",<>,..1, ~r~ .... nJ~'. quid.!." nn.., 'h", 011 m ~old ru
,hem im111.,Io.u~I.,- on 10",..1.
, ...... tl
J. CUI Ih.~ r",i .. E'~~ inl0 .mall ~trip" anJ .... nh ,he .nd of
_"rip "I r,,,,, !!'~. inlO ,he .. em ",1 ""..I, "'m,,1.
a, 'I'll \.
4. Sd"~1 ", po, d.,.. ;~ I"rg" ono~gh to h"l<I th .. "h,,-ken .... ,I IiII it
,,-,lIcr. linn! ,h" """,,,r to" "mmcr.
h..Il h,lI
5. G.-nlly w,"'", the ~!O<k: it . 1>",,1.1 not be lVu hot tou"h
b. 1'1""" ,he, hi.-ken "oJ ,he I1>"re l. i,,~ide n """.t;ng bag ~n,j prou. I~
""I.. ,nt" ,he hal!_ s.,..1 'h ~ bag tigh tly wnh 'Ir1ng. Seal ,h 1.._ ....
<>nd b;.g. and ,Ite" ......J ag;>.n "'.\ ,h,rd ,,"i.', Do not .. n.,.. e .. , 1\.

'0

the

ba5

p 100

"'''''i! .....

'; PIa. ., ,h ,-hi,-k_"" in ,hr limme"; " g ",,, 'er and co.. ~r. Poa.ch I.,.. 1
8. Rc:mo' -c ,he c'h,ek .. " from the,
Just 00\0"' "",vinC. """,n tn.l_~
Irlltl.t" , ,he ~h'ckcn to .. cotung bom"l,,, car"e
..,lIId
9. pour ,h.. 'lI)(" k "nd mor .. ls into .. 2-<I""rl (2 Ii,,,, ) ""uc~pan ~ntl bri"l! 10
.,mmer. A<lJ<l" th .. ;easonings.
10. pr"6en. the chi<" ken in deep platn '<lrrountl~d by ,he mnnl,ud .to<~

",,,,,,r.

GRILLED ,\lI,:,\ TS
Grill~

m .."I' "'" , .... dilion...Jl." ~r'.... d "ilh 'lock-baaed ,",,"Clll (.ud .. Su.Diabl... P"!" I ~Ul . imple t-auu/s Ihill lunclion u condimen". o.:om )Un bu
Ie". TheM '''<leU a.-.. ".ed ba""",, 11.., juice. r.. le~ by grilbl m~~" n
rail imo Ihe !trill and M~ 10.'. mnking i, imp<",ible \0 p""pare..n ;m.g.'! .."ct
To prepare .... ucu ,hal capwre ,h. Itwor of ,I... grill. ramally Snll ,h. m."
and ,hen l'n;,\' " in ~,ock or other I1I1-,m,ni. liquids. The melhod ;.. O<In ",h..,
a.na1og<>I10 ,0 bra,.ing (whe.., m ...,a..re ti,." brown...! on '01' "f ,h flO It "'"
.hen mo~ten...!) ", \0. wlmis. a {e,hlli'lur ill" hi,h meal. l uall~ !"",rOl -.ul
If)'. i. pan- ".' " ..".,...!.
I'" is pre".....,.! "I.. th .. {rimm
an,I,L
',n 01
Ihe m~al " '0"'1'1.",,[ L_, g .. n,l. reh.
in Ihe Ha,'orf I"'

Of'

____ GRILLED GAME BIRDS IN SMOKESCENTED BROTH

a'~
Sj

"""
N

\Q.l
'llIiq~

t It

~<It'5\) ....
I marjor~m

';rust ....

Noli')

or

~Q

PMfl ' t

b' ....

't..

- ..
60u"'~

h ,,,.,

"--

O~'1111

,,,

'"

...

h ,,,,,,,,,, .. 1.-0'" tI,, qu~,J . ,n.l "'1""b. ,nol 11,-;11 ,he <ar~ ......... '''' ..,
Ilr","''''\ ~ \\'h.'" ,he c.... c,"~c.~ .... "i'rJ.y loww",,'!. 'raMf~r ,hem ",,,~ .
.....
1
,
....
'

"
I
,.. ." (~ Ii"r) .... ,,~cp".n .. \". jllM """ut! ' I,r"",,, "0.;1. 10 CUI er...\0.101 the

<I,

i .....qur jla.....;, the """,.HS<. lor:W


'B'"

(:rBd.'

minul~" S~;m 011 any lro,h or htt ,h~l

- 1..... '" Ih ...url"""


I , h bro,h 'hmuSh alin,- ~hin''''

dn,j

th." Ihmugh" doth nap~in

5. ~,,~tn I ~ b,..,.u1S from ,he "1"";1,, ""juab", (It"k. Bod pheas;<nl an,1 grill
~,:;..~!",n'
.
h'hh
(
h
,h.m . kin .jJ.. down hrst. ",-crIll .. ,n, .......\'~ I e 'n~a.t ,.Ire in II", reno

!rr.

rl,.. quail

b,..,:L>'s w,1I t~k" ~b.,u, I "''''''',''' Ihe lI<Juah b,ea.'l' about 2-

",il>"'." ~nJ till' IMger bre/l5's trom -4 to Q ''''''ule".

the,~ In oh,,~ ,oil. and j!rill


(4 I'ler) ~tr"'ghl~"led N"I1~ I'a"
..,J jklllCh (he grill..d breasl" for .~O ~cond. 10 2 min"' .... d~P'"ndi"l:l on
I~~ir "l~, Rem"''''' Ih" breaSl~ and ,,,IIU;I Ihe seasoning
,he l.rOlh.
~ 1'rrst't'llh.. bre;lS1S (slic~ th" duc~ an,1 ph",...... m hreasls) ~nd "'''.I. ..... 'm>
tr<"lno,'.d fro'" Ih~ s~"Wt,..,.) In .I. p I'lale~ .urrounded b.... Ih .... "'o~ ..

5.
~.

Sh,J.,h. m".h,..,..,,,,. omD ,ke",er mil

p"", ,h. rc"""cd bro'h ,nlO a -Iqu;>.<1

or

odl.d broth
Nale: Some J,,~k breasl:S have II Ihi,-k Ia,\"~r ot

I," ..... hich Inakes Ih~", diU",u!! to

,nll- To pr<",~nl ,hi. probl~",. Ii,."t ocore [I." bre",[ .'oel.' ",;[h a ""~. 5h,,'T' I",r
in~ knife and ",ut~ n. i~in ;idc down. for 5 [0 f minuln, 10 I'~nder ",""I "I' lh<r., bd"re gnllins. Th~ ,kin c"n also b~ rcmo~~d ~n!i .. ~IJ fr(lm ,he hr~'''1 hefore
... Uing, but I~ (arefu! n<lt to o.-erco<,k .~iob.. hrcl\.,t .. as they dl)' oul q"i"kl,"

TIl'S fOR T H E REST:\l'R.\'\iT C Ii EF


In t. ,poo,,.j prof.

Ion..}

!.iTche"s, m"".' ,hd' 1,,,,1 that i"tegr.oJ 111\\1<_ .....l\1iro

,
I~
luI. preparati"". Ro;l"i,'I" a ,'hK~<"" anJ p .... pari"! a I" to
da It Unpr", 1>< al in ,Ill hul [h .. moot ",,,11.",111,,.1 ..,,,a,,ran'...
~I
~u, ... ""rre "~inaj!v in,~nt,.J lu 1'..", Ih,. """\.. fn.:)f" lhe jal-lminUTe .liOi,-ullin
in p,-.,paring inlegrallklu,;u. Unt"rt",,,"el~.. ~I""'~~! '.iu<'H. espc
:'I.\' Ih., Way ,!h~y ar~ prrpa~<I in 1"'1.",,', C'Cono';"\'.ori"n,,d kitchen . ""..,1.1'
v', Ih....h,I.YlI\g d"""1 It",or 01' a w"ll""tul~ ;n'~8r"1 """'c. 11 ,.. h"wt"o l.
[><>os,blt to or '
,.
. .
;oJ
san'l" a l1ch~n 00 11,31 ,,)me uill. .... j"menl' "C'elIS...." 1<> "" m"
@T .. ~.'. "'" b. -':compli,hed in ,,<I.,.. n...

s."...!,

.n,,,,,,,

,>1'[

~l' ",A

Sa

(1 .285

.. n

~( ....

.J

, ....

''''p

",aI

F... I

..... ,.... b.f".,

,.. P"1""" ..
I(

).

11, ......1 _,_ .''''..." 1'111~ 1'",1.1,.." i" 1''''Io ..i .....1~ ;,d'..n I...
.. I.... from ....1. '" >li .. n ;""''".....,1 ",", d".n ... 1'" 1 .. r ... ion,ond n-h.:III ....
J""
br..... ne: n ,_ine: 1i<!:1
1.....' !"rIch... 1 ~.' toy add;,
1"\......,.....loerock -,, ' r;! hodJ an I... 1'''''''' '<> .... li..juid
Ul
I....,""".. _" I ....., ,....
by tft".
lo u..d:on
h...-u-o Jl h....... ....," .. arrowrnolor lou,
<Ml>O

c.. "
,,,n"'"
.......,..

.... :or ..

...

Po ...

Who.-n ... he- In' '' """'


.. I""'" ~l .,....1 _ pia. ,n . lit\ollin"'C
... rc-J ran Ih. Ii 01.. ot ,h.. hI";" 'ns li."",\ H<lo" n R'ry ",nlly
_
"OU11< f
l,,,d
)ITW"I <> .. boil. Ii ,o1u,mu
'...,. II '<'<tUtre.l_
:ansi"" ,he- 1M
) plato .and Ii, .. II
J< ,n d pu I
A_ od or
-.iMd .. ' no particul.rh- f~1e ........ p
piKe- CAl"t"h )' n.. ~
aft lhe- ".J b... l\Ia" aft 11 hu lho...u. . cooled.

...!:v 1
..
p"'~ ... OC" lo*r ,'....., 1" .a.:hc-<I .....~~ .. I"" ..... thr
:pIiol .. MIII,
lnltl 100m
1""nliU ,du."t1on .. ''I"" .. ll<>rn.oU
11...'01"1 ..1 ........ l """h , ..,., J uen or p<d...:I ...... &n! Pf!'PII .... t j<UIII
lhe-poach,"I ~u.J .IC'dh~d...\
I
'Y
... I~,on
1111 ,htd
,n
au h bl.nc fUC11
&f
po'
.. ,y noI:,aaI ,,," I
Po.ch ...1_'" .. :>LIM 'Je ...1>...1,
It....- .. ,oy.....
and bnJ,.... Oft'
~n"y.
o'W'd
.. 'h .. I-ll.. ~od..
It

ad.....

.,t"

P ""JIU'''I! VI'<'Vai

...............

pnr

:d

.nd .....aifhd' ~-' I 1'''.......


onk,,,.1 \,"'''~ .,.
,.t.....J,.t ",n~ I<> .."""I ,n'" "....".,"'
hand. Ih,' llocb .... ~ .....-.J,,,,,",," .1.-

t ..........ad 1ft,.1

...

~ II...-"' ...d

h.u ,on"

Ih ; 1ft
II. on

:.

'....

rl. <'II ,

qwdo

:T:' ......

,_,,1',1"'"""'--,,1"" ,,,,.- .... th ,....J,.ao..il""u '.......~.~ I


I"'" <I~II",,',I ...,u ,;> ,hal Ih........... ",..uJ1y .......
.. ,,\ PO" I, 01 ,~"h, ... l ",.. " ,I, .. , I, .. ,. ,Ih~r".t 10 the 1.011'"'' l ,,,", I....
1 """
'_a solut,
_II n tl" ..." ... nl" _
I ,,, ..,,,, '1"'n hul .... t,..;
; ......
I .. T I.
II
.-1. ... nUlWnH' In
a ' - - I"
II,
'
-'OIF"
J
hl,;""I,
",~ . ,+, . . hll' ,,,,,

..-i/Ibo-

&1<""

lm I"oh"'m WI'"

'"'"~

za.

-..

"

INTEGRAL FISH AND


SHELLFISH SAUCES

Integrall-ish and shellfish sauces are made at the last


minute from the natural juices released during cooking.
fi~h and shellfish are especially suited to last-minute integral sauces because they cook quickly and release
flavorful liquid as soon as they are heated.
Because the best method for preparing
an integral sauce depends on the

technique used for cooking


the fish, this chapter is
organized around the various cooking techniques.

Although shellfish comprise


crustaceans as well as mol-

lusks and sea urchins, the


term is used here for only
the last two. Because the techniques for cooking crustaceans arc so spec-iliC'.
they are treated separately, in Chapter 11.

8AS I C I'RE I't\RAT I ONS .\ N O I~GRED I E'\:T\

I'i.h ~lock
fa p .....,..n Fi.h s"..:k.,..,~

~e

I ()t), r.a,.ln'on ..!

r~cipe. ohell nlll~r Ii,.

"~lh~ ~"ok,ng n,.cd,,,m tor Io.h and .h"~"'.h, 11 _Ih~ !i. h slock i. ",,, 0 .,,,1,,,..

.. "d 1. pr~J~"ed h'o", "np"~~,,bl." h-c.h lo. h. " "" II hdp r"inlo,. I
">ked
,"or of an inteeo',ll "",uc'c.
,,. t,~ ''''~"+l.
lnronun~tel.". Ii,h .t<",k i. ol'tcn !"ep"<c,1 from ....1.. tish and 011_1 t

lor It'" IonS b<-Iv,-" u...,. Such a ~"",k ""II gtVe any

"",U"",,

'fm"" Ii I.v 1

To prep<lre Fi,h Glace. $C<' page 105, Fi,h g la~e is often u, .. ,1 h' <.. in rant ,h.
n':l\'or ollish ",<u"cs ,hat have h~!!n r.n;~ hc" wuh buller or rcdu~~,1 n m. Tit.
ad,.,.nl"!!! 01 Ii.h gl,,,-c 1~ lh" l " (An lx pr~p .. rt'd ahead of lim. and rell"\g.r~~
unt il nNd.,,[ Unli kclish m",:k. il...,quircs no I...,.t-minut ...,du<li,,". Fie.hp..,.
.hould bt- u....! " ~I)' ~ p.uingly o r i, will !i,'e ,he sauce a 5tmng. Ii..,... WI
'hny co,,,.. ml>"r1lI)' ,- hcl. feel thaI li.h !l~,,'. cven when co""",tly p..,~
and u,..,d . d~era~es korn ehe chara~l"r of a ~;lUce b." IP,-ing;1 a nondescripe lish
The Ircn";n til, line!;1 restauranto i~ to tt;. to ~.. ptur~ th~ inJi,'idualieyllf
1\ bpecil,c Ii,h. wlllth ohe" meant ",'rili,ing ~on,'e"iencc.

''''.vor,

Shellfish Cooking Liqui d ..


Th~ l;quid nol_d by rnu_ls. ~ockles nf d~m. during 1I~:unon, hao

c,ou., fonhrighl Fla'-Of "n.-l is C'" ~llcn1 .... b..f<e for li.h .au"1lS T" P"'i'A"
~up (250 millili!" ....' 1>1 the cooking liquid. pl".-e I pound (500 I!r~m.) 01 !!Ill""
~els. coddu. I,Ir dam, ~nd ClIl" 125 milliliters) of while ",It,,' ;n a f"" .nd

co,'e< wi,h a ligh,-l,nin!! lid Heal If... 1"'( "1' ,he sto,t .wcr a high Il.,,~< ""J
.hake it from lime tn I;mc 10 rec!i"ribuI~ the .hellli,I" Afo.r ~h",n 6 m,nute!.
open t",- li.l. \Vhn Ihe mussel. <>r ,.J.~rn. I...,." aJJ opened. Ihe,V oM)d !>'cooped oul, ~nJ 'h" cooking liqu"l .houltl ~ "r"in"'! lhrough .. !in~ .1"", , or.
,j' th~ hquid .... 'n~8n1t.". Ihm". h """e5<'<'I,,,h, \\ h"n u.ing ~hell", h" 'Iun&.~
uirl", .-c",,,ml... r that th"., "n;o ery ... h.,. "'" .,\'oi" 100 t",, ~h f"I .. to"" aI
arch.. 1 if "tid;" ~,hl"i , onal.al,

Co u r t _ B o uillon

288

II

1"... ........

1. .....
or.::,r(1
tv'r ' 1.0....1 , ~ , ..., ...",', , ' ...... \\
'n 11<'1M'nT<'.Io .......... ,
.In houl.l ",.,ho,~1 ' .... <I u 1, """-l1...
11 .... ..+1<'<'1""1 bo I
I"" '!o~" h>""",_,," '''.ho
I.............. ,,1. ha
It r..... ha I.. 10" -, ..... ". ...." ,1 "',, ...
10. r k
............... , '"1_''''' ,"ok. , b, ,,1""'nM by ..'h". ....
~ .... n-I-..
, ..,.",.hln "h,;ulo..... , l he n ...... . nd, t)Ior,~,~r< 10'''1 .,
1
u,,! .an~'"
,ml''''''''' b, ,uj"hn, in..l, f, 'I I'C"<I or ... ho/.. \.,.
of ~
01. , I .. 10 ......,1, p ,ro! , v." ,hi,,'" ,,,"I I ... h" .. ~I"'.
' _nor
'I '.0 .....1.'........,,-. ..1Ihd........ ',,-..1 ...
...."", ' h ,,~ ....""III. I., , o,;o, . he 1..1. I .... ,"'.... ,hH': .... '" ... ~lu, ... Io.!

.It......

_If

,~~non 111
. :.'nl, ..... 1" ,1.."01" ,.1 d .. po.o.t h.nc l"fUid or ... ..,,~
.......... ,,' .. I 51 , h or 0' 1..-, .hi. k , ~ L"h.-, . ,h, m<"hod. ""'Iu,,..
Ik rif,l, .. , ,..,,, 1M "'" Iont _. ptn .d whd . , I>., 1II.l " r '. I... 'nll'r~ f .. ,It"
n.uon. II I.,..., '" M'~ p<,.., heol ti.... .. it l, Jit\h. br... h-Iok .. ""'n 11.,1. ktf
.... ".., oS " .... ,J.d. a ........ k.b., ""'1 Uuct' I houl,1 boo II..! (...., Chapter 8.
Ba,..d and :-'; '..,1"'.,-.1 I ~, s...lK"C'f" I~'r :iUI) Sonw heh .......he poKh,"I

1...""""
-So""".

l"lui<l'n "' ... ~. a t..,... 10' a ':"I~ lOT ,"" ,,.. ,,1 '~"" IC"
\\ h~" , ,n', 1'1'''1 II.., ''' _ 1.'''1 li<ju,J f", f..h in'o .......... "ia ~ If> _
hin .. ,hrr poa< bn@" liq"'''1 wi,h .1 "u,~ ,hdl to ... ","en made- ,n ad,,,,,,,", Old....
A'C' P" . 'm<'mrl<'S - ..rw COn'lI"n~ lOme of.he p<>Il<'h,... liqui<l ...,d,. fiM
.."tl",,'~ m..&o ... ,aJ'II.nC,;dId ,h"n ",,"u<"Ins: ,I... m.x,,, .... "nul" .... lhe <<>I'n<'t
,."'...., ..""'" :\ ",mIlo. m.. rhod .n 1.0.. ...d tur b"nu or~.... N-ioaucn. U
It... roach"'fI.quKl ... 10 br lin ....rJ .... h bUll ..... " .. brtt 10 pnpaI'l'. bun ...
Iffindl...I ......... (o..d .... t..-", ....... blanc OT <>f\<" 01 ... Mn\o"."'....) and I"~
,t... ..U<~ ...,," ,"" pc,.,..-I..,..- l.quid .h.. r 'M Ii'" .. cooIo..,d ..... btfcn " II
..~ 1... 1.,. WII~. 1..,-mlnul1' .....,,1...... of bull.. r ....10 II.., poM'h.... 1iqIrid II
. vnicW Th..... npn:wlv prank at In fIlA pac-ecI prui","""", oetnnp.
f iah po&ehn,. l.quid ~an at ... Iw mmbin..d "' 1M last mmUile _h ~
....voU,.ancJ..bun..r .......n, ..... h .. hoUandr._ and 'la~ " , . . , - - .
........... 1..1., and bmtt.I,k.. but .nu ruD 1\a...,....,.J U....JIy equal parb
.,.....hing: hqu;.d and .... ulaifwd NUl"e aft' -.l 11w ~ cldw
............an be..divaed by vaJYUI( 11or ...... 01""-10.,.... r.-_

bu....... no;:h~.cy&.. _ 1 0 ..t..v- c---.""-Iwt- _hod !"or ~ _wid! r.Irt..--.1iqIIid


tho. hquid....;m....,......_ nu..-hod bu .... baae __
pan lhe IradirionaIlownioIr: whidt ~ /I
wllh _ s....oe Rouilt.

an

or

a.- ~e&n '-..-1, ..........

do. n.- 01 dw r..h or do. poKhin,- liquid _


pap
__
I)~

-.

.... poad.iIt.-lMpoid .t-dd '" ........ binecI .....

WIoo._....... ""_ .... _

a.,-

-------,
I"' .... . "'1 ......... In ,I hi"'"
L
.....,.. .. ,".n
..

k ....... . . - "-'~U coo" ,he run ... iMir..d

... '"
id

I,,,-t.......,.,..... ,,, . .

......
"., .... __ h.......

... '

01

.010111....-1
__

~I ........ r..h

...... itJ

, . . . . . ..J... br.,.,."b,nt'd.-

..,.n......1 ...............

wh;l~

("I
d ,I

oh ,',

..... " .... .,

~II..... brfon ... IV


n
..... ....Ul"r' .... ...,_o(lI

,f,

,I

w"

..... y

. F.u... m

,I,

fftUr ... L1 .... ,ho

_
011

....

...,' \' ,,,,rho

.I_hilt!"'"

&I

~u ..1

...... sEA SCAL.LOPS A LA NAGE


I ~

\I

.n1 'I'

,I ... ,.... n.coun hnuillon

.de

,I
~ Thco ~rl ..bkl.J
he
. - ,,,-, I
.. re \ I .or ...... co
nh wed bu 1nAlI,
.....
..el. 'eI "...d) Ii",", goyenM ......-~r. ~
of If'
hAt
,.,....,.de....l
M Rcmtm~ ..... 1' nap AI ......
he

If<

a..-

... _

-,

".0.,,",11.,

P"l""'" .he tOOl. .,.bou 1fI.,... MTW:<i


oralrvc ......, ...... oooI..~
f. :11) .

..

-.-

lhe lUh. eo I ~

...

'~ft

,-~

..... 1OtiI".111'1 ju/lfnIt:

--iIIQI

-~

00'I.,.",u..)

...

m<>Vi"lthO' I ma.II,

\, - O' .hor

,.

""

-~.,

, .....1

..k "\.I,,,nl
~I. .

.1 ud
....1 .umlp" :I II

l.;t-q,., ~I ..
.nd ""0' '" . Add .1 ~ _
f. r:;o..cum;....I, I
""'d
'" 'b.. ~u

<Jur. 3'-

he; WI hlbrw.

,'hoc,

.. ."nnw'

....... ., .... "

-,,,.. '" -'


"C'

..

Sp

.. , . .. . ...

.oj, ' I ;'_,, ~ Ihe ~"u,:.b"u i l\'ln /l", 1.,.Ii,"L !I>e .~" ... >ning~ il' ne<'eso.o.,.". II
'" I..,-k na1O~. 1L e;ln be ,,,, Iu.-.,.!
.
"oe"
, I'oa,h (h~ ..."lIops'~ !hc n,un.llouill"n <0 " ... I~r, H~a' pori.... If,
,.nn~d ,'cgec"blu wlch d ,.nail ~.n""nc " I ch,. ~ounbc.",I1"n 1h~ ...
a.nd Ch~"''-11. Spoon, ,he ..,,,n"I" "'c" OOw l. or dttl> I'I~c~. a"d; our 1...,'oun.h"u,Jion "nlll 11 ...,/lch,-s h I1",,,.v " I' ch .. .,dn or ,h~ 0<><11: ,'''
ch,' luhcnn<.o "cI!C,,,h1c' an.1 h.rh. al"p ., nd around ch~ .... I~~
Sca ')c/lilops wi'h l3u"erI-: nriched Nltg"
Tlw <,(",king liquid ~'''r ~ca 6,.,1;,,1'"(0. I" "~ge 4'an h~ "on'"~rted incn ~ rich hr"'h
lik~ ""U( C II)' reduCIng n ,,,,,llon,,h"'8 tl wnh hUlt~r_
.
-\fc er. ~cr.. ininl! OUI the, \'eg~("hlu . ~~duce the court-buuill~n by half. II>
.. boUI I ', ~ up. (375 mdloloc crs) ,_ Tu hn .. h th~ liqu,d wuh bUIl~r. hoC"p-rl'<Md,~... can be used. [\ che d,~h" bt-ong prt'parcd aU '" <mc~ ..",I ",.~
11,,01\'.
10 8 ounces Cl25 Co 250 ,rams) of b.""
"""
. limply
~~
,hunks. ;nco che hot liquid_ II the .jish is ~inl! ""....-MI O\'er an Ut>de. ' '....
~
riod. ;.. Juring a ff$taoranl ......' j,.. . iT is b~st 10 whisk ,h. am""
.. nl;cip",,,J for the '~""ice inco a .m~1I ~mount ,,1 [he nase li'luiJ and ~"I'~
,-""rm, Th~ nltge liquid is chen ,'omhin.. d wnh the n~I'.''''l)' amount o! ~u '
.ilied huner whe" the order;. 1'1",,.1, Thi. method;s preferabl. berau.. \bt
ouner is mOre su.bl. in" I.. "" li'lu;d oni"cure. h abu avuids la.cmin"c. ",h; k
in, "I bUller ;nlo Ihe nage, See Lh~ phOIOS ....!lh in Ihe color 1'1",.,

. wh;~k.oj

___ SEA SCALLOPS A LA NAGE WITH V1NA1GRETTE

'Z'iI'Z , .

u ,; t i

--e

LO B ST ER A LA NAGE
II

.. hct

It ....
...dv.." ...~
oulnn", .... ...:>ba.....
... I, .... 1iq
1 ..-1

I""'''

"""... :I

"

...... ""tI:."
I I.

"'" ....

~bIn..

,-

.. nit .....

"-'-

II
':.In Jba ~" .., .ami ... hlle"" , ... wit
.tIou1 1;' ml _
!)rill 'w XI,.,f 'f ~'IO a
\up
.. n"""" ~ hold h.. Iobt....... [)i.., ...,..J 'toe '-'"I...... fUn.- ~I....do ....
S

un,

and Iu '"P lam h

tUt:.

un

S., ~

thot

br~11I

.1

~i","

0 a nr . .. I,.,
0
ut n.
hoI '"
:>let n h a._ ,I IOUI' 1';,oIeI' .. ,,1 vl~c, ,/ . , obou..
halved len,th...,se ehe1~'! ,I...... m,.t pt.-I ,,', top- '" ""

.. ~.hle..P

---e

o ~I~ " ...m'

Ilqu"'~"'''''-~''

BOURR 1DE
' . . R",onJ ""ilb J/llyomnniN

p"e~ 'I)' P'* m"'I;.... on rill, "",,k ..,.


anti .... , ...... "".... m"'-, 'Of fU,". \\ ;,.,.,
,
oolud. h.. ~h 'I I... ' .J, ,tI.." IlBoned an! .hiM"; Inle' .....koi
"lolly I" W iln.l 0"',..,'.,".... \O,t. ,:.,VQI' 11... boun1,I .. ' j ....... h-,'
.n, the poachi", I..,,,,J 10. , .. I, ""h milyo<l"aise .-\,,, d Ii," c......
.. 1'"O..,y d. h

" .....

..Ii

.on

..... \onl_ _

~ ..I

i"'.... "

If'

CI.... p'''' 1.(

.;w.

b.

..-i, ....... 11 ... """"",,. . 1 '"

,.,

n' otl ntilla. ",i.... I". n~ ...oat""'"


,....."" .... ,., .''''-~ 011 ..... ....1"..1,.3 "':I'h- c I" ......b- f"" .. ",,,,,III '

1,'';''11 ,1,,1 ....

0.,

CHtrJn
Ir"'!.'-' ,'" j'ftI "" .... ,I ... MI"'" ".-1'" 1['" """""I ..... ,Jr.IJ, I ".,
\--",,' "nl[ ,h.o'
, .... ,-, ,",
and ..." .... "I'"..,d01. tc..,.w

_,,~.

'..... ,...u",,1 ' .. pr"'.a'"

.~I.,

........ "od,,!M"'''''

,.... 1""'

.....,,.... ...

..

.,

"

lO,ml. hO;>to
~

!on.

,.

"

,jIII"",IItI"

I So.

,"-~

"

..... I

ko; ,I
' &l'WI~
lii h ,s b."
bo-_r han,ftl_I\l'tS...,1

,"" oloa on . ..,...... ..

'M

"

..

h.. ch" ... <> 'll n~


If,,,,,, ...foc. ~
"k'"I......., .1", :on. pn ""nl

let wr:

iIJCd

_1 "

fn
cul'Ii"f up jl.n.nf.1 Jl'CMch I
Ik......
and
from II lal "" I...
n

"'

'VI)'

..,'0

n nn

.\, (; nr! Nt ,h
""I,n. ~l' .. (
,,)
'" ( hor~on'" ...... ...,Iand h.. I,.hk:

IRa"

ucq.... n an
a~

'0 ...
,nlo

II

U m

,[i,K

.....

r.u..,"

""',

r.

Sir n h ......
~n

"n,

....1

...

&I

rd.

11"

II

'"

>I.
f~nfh

)n ..

1'''_

II

.. 1m.. ,

-k.1
0111",-.

ul

h,c.r

.:11

Omi

~,

20
I &,

.~

~n

b,,,, I
t'C'n.h~ ......,1

In

ill

I. 'k-

Iw

"
01
h,,," .. h.... ""

.. "r::
of

:>'11

.iJo

"....

O't I~

\.

'P

Ih

h..

lila . . . . . .

JI hl'

buu"J..
~

(If

1.-1.

... "d,

..,".... ,...

...
,"

, ...u "hi'

11'

.. I P

.""

he

.,..
fi

h.

",ullh

'"
.,

"
I' 295

BR ,\I S I NG
Fifh i. Lr,,;, ....! It., n.ok,ng i, in a l.imn".1 ;LJ1l0Un, of liquid. In Eo.! """
""""n'i.al d,fl~''''n< ~ betW~~ poa<h'''8 .. nd hr..i''''I!!:'' th" ~m"unt oil
\\'hn li.h l~ I'..",.-h..,d. 11 ,~ c<>mrl ... ,ei" ."I"n"rg~d in h", r . I oq",~ "'"
.
U\U" _ \l.h
b"'i.~. ,he li'I,,,d .h,~uld "om" onl.I' h"Uw".\' "I' ,h~ .idu of ,h~ ",10",,.";' ~ ..
fish hll ... ,s. TI'I''''~'k
10,.1. to "'" lm),,~d '" 1)lac~d ,n ana, C,",.
I .b,
.
.
;tln~r I""" r
~h"pc "" du>..!,\' ;,~ PQ~",l:.k n,~I~h .. ped Ii." pan. wurk e~I"'c iall .
' " '1>
'h
k
1:.011
.
,\ "'.I1I""h
Liq".'J ,u<-h .'-" Its MI)<. coun_ .. U' 0". whue Of red "" ne , '" ,10<\11; h <~
Ing hq",d IS add~,II" ,h" pan u"ul n c"n'~. haUway up ,ht Ie. "f ,h.I;,h .
pan is then pi", ,,,,Ion ,he s'ov., and ,h" 1"1" ,01 qu,,,kl,, brou,ht 1
~

.".,It.

,i.

"a .......... \,

s~n a..' _the li'l"id ~~ .immenng, ,he li,h is 1""",1.\' "ove,....J ....i,h a..h 'ft F' ~
m",u m 10,1 or I.~'r,-hme n ' pa~f aQd plil{'~,1 ,n a moderately
"''n. Wi tn "o.
lish is ~ooke,l ,I $hou ld ~ qU I~ kl.v fra n, le 'Ted to a pla'e or pl~"er "hil. ~ ""CO

I.",

is pfe p.af~J wnh ,he bra'",,'g 1'''lF.m!.


The oul-''' nt ''8<" of braising ovcrp",,~hing is Iha, ,I... n""Qrful ill;",,,, r.looood
by the fish are rei,'''J<C(1 ,nto a rda,,~ely .,n,,]1 amoun' afliquid, Ilau.. he......
ing liquid i. more conce n,rated and 1I.. \'orlul ,han peat-hing liqu ..1. II ...
qui"kly ~ reduced (or not) anJ u'" ,I as ,he ba..e 10.-" wide \ui.-t\ 01 in"'P
Ii.h !<auees.
The mo,;t ,,,,nmon me,hod,,; Jnr 'onwning ,he b.-...i.ing liquiJ for r..h tn''''
arc by adding hea,)' crc;;tm and fcdu"ing the mi.",ure ,0 ,he "~lir.,J COIl-~istency or by rrJu<ing ,he brai~;ng li'lui..] ;r neee'"",), and whi,king in butt.,
It is abo flOS.ibl ... '" lin;,h ,h~ brai.in! liqui,j for li.h "i,h m;,.,tlnndi"",butd
"",ue~ . ..ab.'.von~. ~nd hoUandaiw.-ha.ed ..wces.
_\\O$t of ,h~"lassit ""ulH lor braiM..1 Ii h are b.~...e<1 on ,h, Snit I~n:y '''''!'''
,ha,
\'ariation. "5\1".1'" (olUlist oluJ,Jjn!! 10 Qf c~T18 ."",.' of,h< ID'
gndien'~ in the hr,wing Iiqui:1 and "sing a,'am, whipped ,-rrd,n. h,," ..... "HI~
\"olks, e;lh.,f ~I .. ne or in cumbina'ion

In ,r~di';"nal Frend, recipes, I;,h i~ more Or!~n cooke'! an.! ",,, .1 ",!wi.
:"lowarlav, mam' ,-hh prefer 10 u"" fillcll. which Me c~"Y for ,he ~U."''''~ IQ
. d-'
, . J.
d
k
. ho'" to wn" hite~,. '\\'~o\' "I<"r~, ~~I",,,ia1k In ,he t.:ntl~' S'iltt'S, 0 nor no"
And i, i~ ~h,'" no, . ~'<tnomi'callv pra, ,i,-"I In ha"c d wili,,,r "on~ .I~ fi.h",,"
side_ In ,he traditlo ....1 parlan~e 01' Ftcn,h class;,' cooking. Ih~ ",,.,,. ~ ..
u....J ,,1, I.....,h"l" I;.h .... he~i<S ,h ... "xl'r~won m ,w"'" ",fen I" ,h. ~~
of 1111,".: T" aJ,!,,, rhe ,:oolu,;",n :\m."i, .,Il ,-hef. "lien call ,he ~n '"'U'.., ''''
ni<Jut' -- .h~IlO\, I""" hing _

""",,ce

,,,II,,,,...

It"'.

____ FILLETS OF SOLE BERey


Th, ,',., i,,'" "'"

,,1,_ [ill.." bu' .m, I...", ",hi,., li~l, "ill work.

all

IN

D aU . . . v,NOI

.~'"

"

.......

"~

...

1''''- he ... ",,,~()()"r(. )O"C S!,nn~l( II ..


p~,lw "'an.!
h~ I '0'" uf ~ "". p"n. :\,1,\ .h~ lit' 11.. i,h Ih~ .... h I"" ."I~
pan (Th~ till ..... h ;>I..ld ,:0 .... rly ~over ...... cf..... o(
..u.4
up. ~lh""IO\~n...F ... ,'S<-.i
Ih~ti aWl hand
?"" and
:.
.. hil~ wine ... nd lSI .o,.,k
C ~ I,,", filku ,.,...~...... p'",:" ~f al
rOIl
pu'!'\mrn.
, Hut ...~ ... h"h IW
:nUl h.. loq ",I. c.orne I. a .. .-r,
4 1..0M0fi0ae!y pb.;..
>1'1'.."..1
,I.. u In ~ .. ,.....,n..... ooon ... 'M
fdlou .... cooIo:.edhh.woIIlU.I" ~IC Ift,n n.
Ji"'
.... _

..,.<"

he u.:). c... n "\Illy rnnc:n... II

'1lii0i

It... w&ml.
Puc e
~p.1 on

h~llo

, ... 11... len


.r:

:II'

I.,..

capidy" Jc,rll

.nd
t"Ol

In..,

-.

tly

If p'II" And Itftp

rom t

_h

1,.....

p:l\e ..... '

J.rll

s:

:k~""

ar .....

..,m....

."...1,
ot SoI.. I"'n
r ...... ,oaIna.; .

u .,nd,

....... tocL

;...ona"dulI~

IL

\ I .,.,

..r

J.. n ,-""roll,,

BRAISED W
COCKLE
HOLE FLATFISH WITH
S AND NORMAN BUTTER

1\0

Iiqwd ~ ,.

":::'- ci d. klld. ,...


,..

but...

"10th.,

C'lI<:k"" ,.".

.... n

. . . ,......

..... '

,,1M , ....

.., II .. " .. J:- I.... ro..h UC'ft.... I


Ir.rl4vo I, ,..,'J.! ,~

:llf'.J. 001<,
' I

,It ".

ftC ' ,

i.

t.,1

.' J.

,uod .....nd '.. "lic V"'W"'~

I"

'NI

IN I.

'" . 291

_,I ..

y,

r.... r.

II

I~ .......n.n ..............

rho.

_'M.rt"I"

' ... ,

+.. .........

M>k. but ... ....,n ....

~'

a,tlY"".",t<>.vanl. 1,1 I.,nW',\,,.,, ... r,


".,,, ..."h" fl...iblr I.n,l~

,he .lark""

.,

I),......,

otT

>to. bu, ,,'.

." .. ......-. n........ ,f,..... ..........ho t~ h .. hot.. ..... ~<>n<ft"n.


t-: "Of"N" a"I,,.,,..h ,aI<' oclll r ,he ... h,,~ bonom., and peo,!

" "II

.........1-.
~..

16."

..- .."'"

...., f"II4SOl06

or" .

_.'"

'n

oItd

~,-,

--

"".c:t __ lit.

ttt ... ..,; ~ .. c

,~

ysl ..... ,

1oUC""

1T,,:fIb<

lSiI)'Of" 0....

...

"

.- ....

~,,_,er

0..

--

'" .......... "',*'wn .... _

, ~

o>I1I1

h
I. Pn pI .1 :IYfl I< ..
'",100'U. 50:_ ,Ia; !k~ch -,d,nnyou, ..-dl 'O coolo
:l P... .he ... ,nc ... :!. . hal , u
I ::.r" <eD0UI' 10
Ri H Ih, roc kl ... and a,!.Ilh.m' o Ih PO" C. ,tl
.u ,JIII ,I .. . -]..
,um I' lCh heal nil au a
~nto "' Cook. ol of} 1m .... fo :0:1<1 .nd

oor

fo ciam...
, W ....n aI .... ahcllf....
I'

opI'"

WI ....'

wopcne<'

,(

......

tl

..".

lu9.,.,,1M

h a kn,f, IMY ... probab y fi

bow4.

<4lakr.' "l' )ul . f.hcJhellLi.., af~,n,hr'" 'J(nr' ,""


C ... h,
an wilh. ,d.,f ,h.. " .....ned IIluid "'''\ ~""'1' ........ , 1<11'

Pouo'"lor'
til 1M IIU

.'''1 Ii:

..1,,,,).,,..,.1""" ....o.nlht.-".,td II

~ .:a. fUh .. d<*,. ... ~,bJ.,.\A

I. al

ill i " '

pc'rIc'

I~

dWJlo, a."! pul md,,. h ........ do"'"


pal'
... hhu.I,",ld"
;u..Jrft\ln" ._'
_h' ....'" um .. "f,,1 ...,J ,1.1" d"
'n' .h, ......',
1\&1. lor .1.... " q m,,, .. ,n 1''' II" L ( l rII)' ,I d,' t.'''' a""" th ..
p<M'" Ch..... II .. ,I...........
.I,d.,. a k,,,f' .J""f ,he 10- 01,"" ,,".
I< ,. lilku and ,
1.. \",;1"01 ",;.~b.re'Y ,"101!"\ ...'

lho
1',,1,1,

'*"

,,,.1'

,..";,,,....
r .... .......

...-1

hr

...

(l(h,,. 11.0"

...

I'......

h-",,,.

J .... "h ,I

h '..
' (<

or tol

......DV"t

.......

...... SOLE MARGUERY


\\. r. .. I,, ,h..

.,..4 ..........~)OI"_~

II

,noal

.... ~ io _

!' ...... .t- .... h' ...

tI

.,.d ,ho ...


,n decokor
.... h..At"

,... ..

h~

.. ! ,""'" .... wh

,1>-1,'
h ' h

......1

..... '1.;

11..t

K~II
",,' ~"""'I" .. n .h ..
b<;tIo'''& ~u,,1 rnm IiUr" or
). J! ..... '"
whoW

.... rhbr..ch. ',he


h broth)

.all

10 laSIl

...

111

11'1 :leS

F (190"(
,..1 suo,( h~ r

!>n' ...........con .a
Spn klc an 0 .... .,...

1M tal
.,..,
2

lhe wb,
Mpar.O b.. o
,It fuh
:!p....r

f" b.. I;~h Ie. h......1


~ "\\'hiM

'<!pI'

Joe"

S OHr

R......,.., rro"
per

'um
II.

h..

1_

..

"

r.m

"

110.

"'

",,,I I

......... C _r

... .,'
"

m"

-"

-,

~'

T..

m,'

.".. ~h lop
M
vull...
'''''1
,h, I!": ,,'U", ,m' ufb
I( . .Ill"
,I ",hi.k nil .. .n
{u.d

,.'

"

~,

,h

1..

..

h....

,n

.. ."'

10 a"1.

vun ..\Of

..

199

SKATE WITH CAPERS , MUSHROOMS A


AND POMEGRANATE SEEDS OR RED' CUR~~~~~~[!.

n. "

-- "--

a",,_

~.

...,.

> .. " ' "

'-'1<'''' _

In

tit"

"..~'- III

."

wrve'

&I

Ih

m, III

II

po

I
"00

"I'l,

it! !lour
'Oc ....

T'" "

"

h., coo1.rd
."d - ' 11

.nod

ad
Ju.1

."" ..

...

J.1e.:I

.,

I .. II

wutl~

!.luran',

- _I. " ,. ..
h

:Kille,

'ilfi.,.. .. Jw

"-Ie u

[)ft ..

bier ...

111 m

A.dd ...
A...ltI

.~

'-~

curnnb

p<'r at I d.... ~

coup

",-~(11f'a I'nl

;0

0 ... '

~
'"

11 ....,

-....
""

-.l' ",-'Mll juk: po .. U. If~~


It ..... ) idt'I ~

..

I",,,id ,<> ....

w, ...

"...

f.tkl..6/50J.. 1L....w.,w
It.
I, _"=

Ilwokto ~

h,

........

hrSo ,,...

S-~

!i:..::: .'kt

.of

h,

he v:v cr

",., ""

Sole-

ilern

'f'<'.ur ..

,~

lok 1;.
of. ~

F;ftII""'j,~
I"rtpUt ~""IV" y
Ii

[)i,o(lll

fJld,.,.(.'i<oIt

,he ....,e.. will: I

on ti iaI

J ........ poons

'0

1)

",..-rd-

I,,,,,,,i,,,,..

~ an-"
h", ec

tole in ~ ,mc

II..V" fo '..k !\t,n


I..,pb;
~ lic
"0<1. ,.d I I~
."f,c..r~.Ah II .'kub;. :>nn ,....dh_'I .. ~ . .dd
paul 01 -1..d .. :t~l'ar.R.
twl"l.
:lli..,

"Iwh

IAI

amour

~..,J"'IO.\t..,.,

~f ~nn _r ...1

Xlk.",loqr..

01

...Iv

""

" .. ,I.. fi,h.,..,; a: r.lkh ..... crt

1';'letr i)l'h"

.. p.........Jn .. --' uno

:en)

1K n;

II at

vof .....ce . Th.. ,.


... ~b ..,11;,
..df,,}. ....
hana
c,"",1
, j".~ I 'Jml;.h
"I;q .d
b ...,M'C'I ,I can
ln~h...1 he UI

",",tohl)";"",

-d

..

bnter't",\O

.bioi",

... lIIuch

) Xdlu

M(hedfish
It.

~..c;-.......

"'rn do

on

W'Wr

"od.

~:'If

\ ..

m'"

"III

J<KrfllI

..

ror

:1.1_
if

.Uft" .u f
lOI

"

, ."

.. "

."

I ,..-li_. ,.1,"'" h' , .... ,.an h.-I; .. ~ ,I.. I......... liq.. i.d

,......,.....

"--=...d ...

....u.-.

.oGdo4

....
... " r ,......
...Ifr...
add "'M' .... ,~
.b:'! ...... t~"J ". pam.......,
i", .. iI....1and l"""
om chOf'P" u.........101 mil t ......... (~" .....
...d.:ed.

,I. (.1 " ....... '"

1" ....

1' ,,,_,II,,,. at

, "" ....

POO

11t.. !>nti.i .... ti'l"id~. In ""u", <r . """. th~.., ," ~" ,,,,,I ' - liol.....

..

,.,.... j'I""1. " . 1",_ ...,. 1"4.. ~1 <


NUU ,nd
an<! r
T
'" I 1"4".... f"
d
f'C ... "'Ii ... .. ,... .. 'l>t' .... 1I1..t h~ .... h) O"eT
.oh.at. ~
.. a.n.IC;.k, ......... ~
la
... .. isIt
C""
... hdr '" ~ tlov....h'l l"luMb. .. 10 .. ~
......" .nd m... hroo

...

,h
~ ~ lu ...

n... liai~..n... L

,I to ,.nll,.. ,.... l"lui<!


hra
Ii. W:u a'

.......,. c...... m >,I ....... h '" _ aA ho.h e

.... th ...... r hut

mI'

;o..,da.
....

'''un"

,"U

d ,I"...:tly

s.:...

h . . . I..

eO'In

.I.,a,

" .. and

.... b.-.w",

Yft t ....

In_

fiol

.M'Rlofi..hu b<-.:

.~,

I ina! n..",ri.... At I""' .... h an~


..no
u-od" .......
JIy d,...
an ..... '
ne"
hr rnd
.. ",. 'C'1.....
".
oklic Or h
~ and h
.. 11 as
,'rl\
It,

..

rn

W.

...

31<'0,

.n on; Uc

:Jo .. 1.emon

'0 be ....kd

... n"l
10

A.......... and okl

.n.tieL old C

.......... s.-,

.... he

fUMI uU

n.t......
IMJ .. d,

t.~

Ikn m~ l,.t

"or:.t
.. It

'\I~' '''' on * ". 1.<1 J c nb

..

I. m

at

"

..J"""',.,....
.. ...
or.. ......

I
he.!

II

""t....lpe
..i.

Ulrr ......uc. '" bee<;

cool",'S li.h ,1I~a


'\I . . ...... n

at

01 ' -1",,1

fi .. ill .."., "",,1.

~ 'hr

t Rp
ata<

n..

~ .....d:oJ. ",,"'jIf1iIl '


h.. u'" ....,1 '...... .....

.1 ",.,11,

j,',........

TS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER SAUCE


".

riLLE:

"

....
_.

01'"

IMJlf<'r. an'\
... <ri .... ,
n

.........

....

l...~ I.n "'~ .... ""','"

~\onIn_'~lJO)

..

... ...
d .... h

..... h ............

_J"9J

-"'"

ron..,

.-- ."_n

...-.........

~.u_

Col_C.
to' ..

~I ~I .\.ranllfff.M fi In>c 10 hoi

..--

.-~

l l...."""

",-,

.... h

.."IJ'

~-

l...b.-.. ",It..j"od"

C""'''I*I .h,..... l<

""~~

.......no;!

Nln or.

,\,Id .he ~n am IU In" ~ook l~' r \lId.


~.\<lju'llhf WI! ;,' 0111 011 w, by ~,
Iob.td 0001... ~g lquid (,:> h,n ,n Whi.1r.

.11.

~-

hoi

"I ,. \1<1.1: . 1. 'or b adtl,ne:


Ii> lolm .. r 1>U11,," an,1 I".'n

and ..dju.1 1M _
"""
" ~ dw iob.ler mecLat _ pn dw r: .. u
lhe ill .. tso .he- p.a.tIHorpMH-

"'.and .........e,1

),"'r Bui,in, Liquid,

.x..c..

If.I"III .ion', .ve


r cooll.ln, Iq' J
h".:I. cr:h .. r
..... .u,h
:h":>ok a: Iiqtlid 'rom &I ' .. mu -s.

mu

roo

:>ok Iliq~;'I.)r h.:onl

:>ral"ne: 1,'1u;.l
be
~klu. bu .h" ...htt..

'."

- . HALIBUT BRAISED WITH COCKLES


1\0

.Ice

",k_ b
!lle.da",s
'.u.. huMJole,tl nd, 0 h,T,I"
..J an ... 6,
j.",.

~I

L. ~ .Jo.w

J",.~.VC'd""" " ","n""",JI<".kI\\"

rh~RamO

rI,' ist .... f.n ...,J .. ' ...... '


b",... "",,n .. ,,~I'

"Of,

iI' , ..

"

)03

.,H' . .....

"' ........
>0,

S" .... 11.,,('0<1'.1".


,"II wbllt!WIw.ohllfll
"" m"Jill Itel h...OO 6 nUl,.. III ,hry.1I open
1 Pul hr filk."n a ;>a" IlQll ....'" "n "h \., hol.1 Ih~", LO'. "11, t..)<'''''''''
.oreCuliv pour 0 11'1" ~ lIun" ,I "llrom ' h~ <X'kln.l.a II\i b.
LY," Bnllfl ... mll"
I--to .01 Cover """'-I ""I,
foil ....
lhe ,
mil"''''" Balu unt; dorI at"'",,, m", ,~

"t

~JIJl

,,,,,h

l_

.... b.a 'ntl ':0' a&. ~ :>up pi,,!! . \d III, ,~<1111 1<. ,n. lnosmc
iiq" J..ioq ...111,.1- Iwro. ,....d bub", r " ..,'(' s.::an '" UIf< .... "~ uI:
.nd ['1:1'-' .... 1.... ur ,n..,r ,,,,", kal,io,.! "'nal'f:" ,.... ,. kl .. around Srr ,n,
fran'"

h~

I'hoioe:r.,ph,

,-010. p'at"

___ FILLETS Of SOLE WITH TOMATILLO


AND PEPPER SAUCE
Th ........ pc'
. n ..""",

,C".,<>nlltllllelr .......

"Irural......,.

,.1."". lrom ;t~ .."'"

1' .... 1>" , th .. '" n


-.

fiU .. , '" h

,h.,

Io.I_

' be..-l ,,' prq>.on

'0

~OO"r

t, ... n,hl' hnrq ....

,d,~h Wllh, "",pl... ~I~

,",h..

,.,.I.. , "I
d,rr"n:!!! It. ..... ..J

.- .
'"

, .....

I:!OOt.) II ..., 1M lill .... ", 11 1M ........:


r
<\.0 ...." ... Ih.... u" "mn'o.o' m_ "'~.
olr...t "I .Ium.""m f ,I ". par hm"nl paprr.nd
'"
II

p.I"

I~

...........1(.
hoc

nf.,- hw

r. 0

J....

,. " .... n I-,illa

::., .. hf" ,..",..,,1

...."0

I,

" .. t

h,n, A.t.I...J.

...

1.11..,..

1I(1\ .. TI,\G

.,.

h ...............I . . . . . . bo: . . . . .Ih.. ,


.........
M
,",C
bore")......,.. .< .. ~ T...I ..In JC'
~ n"f Ii ..... b molY 'YV ..
IS ,....,r<! III.

ta; ""',.,; ..

"he,"

>q

.....,,,._,"'r..t.......... .. ......

-'.

! .,. ........

l10rn ""',..... J,.1b..h .. ~y


I
'Y 1.1
\,~
.. U ~, p.on 01 ,h.. pal .uru.c~ O\-,... h.. I a".1 ~"rr "'M
..... """ _"" Th.. ., Jill .. n
IWft'tI __.to", r
.nd .,.
dIoI6oII-....,....
y,C""'Mqut , .... ,vorful:lfO- rtaploo
n
, P'"" _h II I L ~ It.,.., .1 ........... III . . . . .I~
he.r ....... .J.1II0t..
Iiia ~ f
IS ~._. ~".nta _h
m ~
ii.o: " ..
Bopptc ~ 'mII'Iy ""'.. hll
00110 .... c.nl
'm~ <>oUt
{ I><'ll
., ...1 Iiol
b.obh L ""Klh
hri....
h~,.
So
,........t~!lf
..,..11I'ti Ii"'. bul hen t.k. I....,.,
~ 'Up.,
. \\

.1..

rn.r

~iahb .. nl<"
~~" .. n.....,
"""~' "...I~
"UlUlJ pan ,
all'''
.10 :>I' 1'1 11,1- OIan :>un,...,J.1
IIq\IKI
h.. be. on .1 ...... pat! , :In.1. Ii" do

--

"It.
an' II.
" 'I p
.... The pan an.Je J..,~
h

~,"'I: liq
I) limp!.. 101....

/1011 ~

50

:>Iv .n h.1

Ii

Of IU"

lu,.., -t dwn

rout ..l

.... mll'."' .., I

"
......,.

0.'
~

,r.'" ~~.......

II

"om ,h~ ,j"PI"

AI .."
f'~

-I.. n' I
h.. ,n

,.,.',

Ii,..

.,

..
....

NlII r,

.. 'h Irr

.nod

drpaud

loq"J

II'

"

...

,.l,ou

b
1.., .., of

:>I

he

' ! .. " '

Ii_I.

'IY

,~

'U

,.' !ni,"' """l!'...."....


p'

II

1 " "

, , ......", .... , ..I,

"n

..

If

,tll~

...... rhO'"
I,.~ . '"

..

hrd

10'

..,\l Trl:\G

""U'~", '" ,n..:~ ..

",~',J. f" ""u.t,n6 J .....,ih... ! ~I,.", M~"

11

.,,,J ....

\1.0 ..,.),,t, rilluM' .),~w" ... !.n ~ Ir..


Y ''''''ean. ~in<I I
~'I.eo:"H,
mon ...ul, ........ II.\> 111 oJ. ...... din

.......... . r.

. .........,J

Ny..-&I ... ""he... hr d~,ta~, ... of , .... p..n, th~ adJ1IlO


... ::, ~ .. and.~ linal . - . al I.r placor ..1,.110 d", J-.od st.1I
_ l.;o<"an!...... ll~rll .. n.
hod p -.wid ~ "'1 uc......
de.-!
.l, .J ;001<.'''1 n ...... d .... y.. he.

__ SAUTtED SALMON FILLET WITH


SORREL CREAM SAUCE

....

It~J

' P'

... ""'/.1" l't?Q-

Tmi........ hI"<

.1,

,II

II

rrllOml!" lalr...".,.1
I""' .d dor .. 'ftl ..

'N1OIf ,pt
_
.....

)l,.1I>I.ISf} e.-h

.h..

odd

,...

n IUMnnr ,n

'y In

,1

nil .Iupn
~I'nll part
""UI pre' m,noory bL.""Io: g.
~...

'tI" and

liai-

...

ow

."

I t.l"

"

"-"tf.....

"'I'

an

:oontnl~

to

...d ~.-in ft-

......-..-. _-

n.-....

frJ KII

"

"

.lo1on.l; ..
L

-" "'mo::..,

...... pan.. T.

110'1

on

GIOrd

.,.n,

..

,"

m.)

mn'
p~

,.a. ,

.,

"'Ial

.,

,. . . ,n.
,
,-

...,,"

_h

.07

...

1.1<"1._ t~
"
_hm."nd

., Scml
~

,...... 1M I~I

.... I~ p;on

<>i II

.torI. but
lid
Iy m"p OUI ai' I'ftaai

,-'"" .. ,,>Ti
...... '.....
IloeJI.- , .... p"n ",.1, tJ,~ ...,nnolUlb ....I ... M~ ., ""-uod ..&.,. \,y

\,I,I, .... ~ ..... m.n,lr~I ...... k1,h !, 1 r ,,',_......, 111"- .. ""Hho,\,


&,,1,,1.1' ~~. I.-om Ih. h ', ..... , t ,I., ....... it ~n I.... &lr"ne.1 'h ......'

In'''. ,n"" .m~n .. ,I< "I"'''

6 .\,1.' In.. ......... 1 tholTonad. ~ II ..

--"I
.s,..c
D'

..

r.nl~b I'"

bu.. r. \,1

"".... .

",,:e ..,,,1 tool.

Fe" JQ le<ondo"

~ .. ".to" . '" ,to. '~t,......". I ,

~A I I

..............
.and
' --.-

K I"\, " ' ..........

,ho

""otoI ..

STF_\.\\I:\G
In .....,

II,... uon .

ft"" "lflI Ii. b cann .. ' I..... ,.,, ~,I will> ai' uuepaI .....,. bec. u..
nelll,_1) I..., .....OUh' oI ....,... or~~

, ,1. ..

a"u,m~r .. " .u,al ly till...! ...

I,~uid ...... h .. coun .houtll, .... Tbe "allm..! IU","," trQIn ,be

,ud and ,a"

M'"ef' ~

fish .inp ,n,,, Ilru Iiq.

n"ni'\ ,....

n...n- .... ho"..-rr "'ttt-ox!. ,hal <a" Iw "toed 10"""" (..hand .. rt.._
rime c;.pIU"~ Ihe l"llnd .... k _1 by 11.,- ti.i.h dun"l cooli", tor all InlO'paIy"".

The tim 1ll,,1 "" CI ,,bVOC'''' method 1S.llhpb '0 p"1 a vt'fY ...,.JI ........ III ~hq
uiJ iIt 'M A.om~l .n.t Ihrn t o".... " ,h.. I'qu,,1 al Ih~ ~nd of CI"IOIUIIf onloa IaIK"f
Th,. i. Ib~ tn.' ,hod ,>H'<Ilor 51....",'''' muuel. _thY_ T1w diudvantap IOIIuo
m....""d .. lhal " '..,.111," ,"DA;>nl poun", ,.r 1M-liquid I...... 1M boI_ J. do<
_"""" aod rTl,l .. n.d..", of Ih~ 1.......1 for NCh bal.'h 01 r.... 'I1ti. -W.
ntRh pUCl lC.aI In P"'lnAO....1 Wftl.... n... mhO'!" di ...... v.an.....,. I.... ~ ..,
tn ~ Ih~ ott'arnu <\In ,Iry. n.un.., both ...aml"lliquid and 1M fioh.
A.non pt"iIIO i,aJ onclbod lor .... m."I Ii.h oalO cool. 1M ti.h .. arifhdy-

.......1 ..... I~ loan / ....1Ih

."'~I

wlnl &ntl a I.,t>I.liln.., lid (In

~ F.....

"",I..n, pa..un....., Ih.. ,..... f.......1 10 . . ;,,,,rr.) A ...".11 .......1 of liquid


pou.....t ,,,10 1M "'UI~ P"".,.d bm-u,h, 10. rapid boil UVff hiP beat n... ~
oa thfto pI&.....! In 'M pan and II... lid ..,aJ...d l;r.lIy The pal'
WI_
..... """ .. 01'" I .... .t~1'ftd k1 .. hoi ......... Wh..n ,be- r...... coobd- ..... --of R..-ortltII ....iJ donul.l nem&ln In IIw botlom at d,,, pan wfoidI .... lot

c.II_"

con_"", 10 . ... 111:....."hlit<L. .... no .....tuo."1ton.


AI ......, ....y I.quid ea.ro b. used 10 .I....m fl. h,

bul II OJ

pnrtietI- ;

Ihtl'l II....... ,11 <~Inbul". dntrahle lla...,.. 10 Ih~ linoato..d ... _ _ ... I.. uid. ..... roM _oel. <oun.bomlion . ....d .... wh'I .. ...-. . . . .

s... ......

aJw.ad nt , .....,) i.k . vod bHr 0.... .. 1M lio.h ............ n . - be con....ned Inlo .............

..

StEAMED BASS FILLETS WITH


...... yOGURT CURRY SAUC E

Thll""il~ ;!lus\~"'~" how 1\ .,eaming liquid c;,n b~ converled into" ,""Uoe w,.h

,,'Iltl" ~nJ 113vo,..,J wnh curry. The ",c'...n"'~ liquId ~an "I.." he con"cneJ in,<>

~ ~ .... u''''11 any "f the me, hod. lur I'n,.hlng fl'Ollching and b"";"'ing 1''11nd .
n" ItChni,!u" ,an ~ used rOT I'rac"""ll.v an.\" fi.h

--

bm t,II"I. 60\00(,,", {lIS Qramsl ~ad"

lSmi 111 ......

te 2INSPOon.

,"rrl (IOonl('l"
leleo "l"rt
II..., (lOpped rilan!'l'

5 to 10 miUIIIINS
IS

"uoc~

"t>l1~tlull'"

ill

250!r>lllilit-

"
,

t lab!

1fiIeO aulW

45 millil,ters

.. I,

30milli ,

~1@SPOOns

to

t"Iast!"

)(\1)OIlPft"

to las,

I"", ~f I"Q I"I<""t per ler S<lUc~ {Opllct .,)

Qr~m'

3 tallbe5poons

f"l

las!~

,Ie <court_bouillon im" ,he bonom of ~ s,.,;un.,r and brine:

I. Po
limn

\I

'0.

':T.

2. Ilru.h .he m.id" of the stc;un~r h..,1.el wnh melt<"<1 bun"" Sci Ih~ li.h Ii
I... in i,; m.. ke ~ore nOne 01' ,hem o .... rial'_ 1'1",(" ,h~ ~kel on ,he 51C~me'.
3, Co"tr. and cook Ihe !i,h I'or ahoul 10 minulel per inch (2.S em) ollhi,1.
n.SI. hUI {h~,-k them hd'ure lhi~ mu~h lim,' h,,~ "In!"",,d in <.""" lh~'y M'
dn". ""'ncr. (In racl. i. i~ a lIoud ide" 10 I",..-e th~m slightl." und.:nlonc.

~~(au"" '''''.I" "'ill e<>nli"""

en,,1.ing ",hil ... ,h"

"",,~~

is being

I'n'I~I",d 1

~. I,'.n.lr< 'he fi.h 'Oa plate." k~,,1' "'ann whil~ prel';1t"ing Ih~ ulle.
!i,

lh~ tOlll"\-bouill..,n from th .. b.,'h'''' "I' Ihe 51 ",r ,n'" ~ ,- .....,


et) ...... ..,.,~"ilh~llI ins .. I., .Th ..,,J,,,ul.lbe )OUI l1u~I,,"
110 "1'.. maini a:. (ll,h .. n i. . . . . .1.
it; fl,..s,tI
,h

1dili,.no.1 COOn ,ho-.

."

,.,

...

309

5, Cook_,he_"urry powder in the ",hQI" buner for aboul .30 Ho-onrl


cumh,,," ,t ",,h Iho: ,""gu<l ", U .tH,nt~ ... _.,~d bowl. \Vhi,.J,. t h:~~'I'
bou,lIon ,nlo It.r iCUrl'y-_vul.lurt m"du<" unul ,h" "'u~~ h..o ,ho
'1
til",,,r and ,..,n'''I~n,-.\'
"ro:
b ;\tld Ih"_ choppe<1 cilanlr" IIn,1 ~di"'t .Ih~ "'''''''n;,,!". Thi... , ~ ..
wh~n It ,. qolt~ hot and .""~_ . loon .. lU.e'e and h<), peppe< n-.t.....:. .......
are oh~n wele<)",,, add",,,n . hma.v k ne~eMary to h~at tho l;; :e IAait.o
~torr i. is ... ,,ed. bUl I,., <Mel,,1 n<)1 to 1". " boil. S~'""~ th. " ,.. I~~
around t he I\,h ti li e!,

____ SALMON EN PAPILLOTE WITH


JULIENNED VEGETABLES
VtHP: 6 SIIVJ H CS

mon '~'~I
__ .. M~ pari. cuI ,nto
caro

~t

2 poul'l(jS
hn~

cut onlO fine JU enne

,utielllM
l!l<!<I,um

_'k!4

m_

iI",

turn,p. :ul .nlo fine iubenne


butter or herb butler

2'j,

larraQon teaVl!S

"

dry

~ermou tl1

unc~

6 tablespoons

"
"

~.

9(1 mim"t~11

OltjQ while

Preheat the oven to 350"F (17s"c) ell! (he salmon On a hi ... int" 1> ......
pon,ons.
2. Cently sweat ,he julienned leek , ,'arn,t, and wrnip in I .",n,e ,3IJpamo)
01" Ih~ butle~ until th~.\' ..,h~n. 1.1,11 do not brown.
C... b sh""t;. <)1 pMChment i""p<"f. 11'1 x 18 inches ('15 X ~s m)_ .\,,...,.
ea"h wmon pi..,~ sJi,htl,\' tn the righl of cenl"~ on a "'luan "I "..,..,~,..nt
pap"r,

Spoon ,h" juli('nnc..l ve~l .. hle~ "ver each pi"'~ of ... lmon. Plaee AbI.
~poon (, milli!;I" .... ) of b,,!!er <)r herb bu (( ~r alOp ~;,,-h_ I'lact.3 1.""4""
leave. on lOp of !I.e bUlter un ca~h <"f'\'ing, Spri"k(~ ""..I, ...... ,ns ""h
"b",n I Illhl"'pu<l" of ""rmou,h
5. Light l." 1>.,"1 the eBB "hil~ ", th~! i, b ....ah up. bu' ,j" "(0' ~ .. uoe j, 1<'w~,,<
~
Bru,./, the OU'''r ~J8'" ollh l'~n'hmen1 IMper oquar6 wid, the~..... ,J.
rold O"..r. and """I them h.... rnR~,nl!' ." ... ri~s ",.'"a,sl" 1<.ld~ ........ .i
...IS" of .h~. rap<'<. Bru~h ,h.- f"ld. WI,h "U ",h"l' " nd "",ke
J ..
(. 1.(,. II ,~ .mper-ativ .- , ..... , th~ r~d< ..1 b., perfa'li.v ..,al'" n.e fi '"'" 1
plinkS .houfJ Innn h;dl _~ "d _

310

~,

I~'~~ ,I,,' l'apill"'~' "n ._ ,h~<, I'~" ,n tilt" oV"n ""HI Ihry pull (It i. dilli.
I', -~h '" dcnn"l< c-"", d., "ht" 'ht 1,,1, '. do,,~. ''','' i. ~ g<><><1 id~., II, , ....
;,... ,,' ,,,,, ,M .. d".,nct hI de'en"",. ,-, " I.. ,k'ng tlm .... 1
rho 1'"'1'.11,,'..' "r<" I"," ~'" op.. n '" 'he tI""Mg ....... m" i.h k;-. .... an,1 tt~n,.
I<,..".I'~ h... pia'.' In I..."" "I II,.. ,!'nt . rh. nMu,,,1 iu;".,. ,n , ....
,.f.h< r>",hmen, J"'J'<"t" .~, ~ 'r, 'P"'""t<l OWe, Se.- ,lot" ph<>U>gt"aph in 110,

l...,,,....

"'~"'- pl."...

NG ;\\ETIIOOS: F I S II STEWS

CO,\\ \J I j\" I,

1'h. ,Jint",n," b~tl"ecn " ,"~h 0..'''' "'HI ;, .,up is "Ii~n dillicul, '0 d~!in": 'ho

"'~" ''''I",rt,1n' J,(1'"r"'''''''' ,hnl 0""1''' u.""lIy ~a~t" lugher 1"Opt>rt'"n 01' '''1'
ui,1 ". ,,,h,1 .han do s,ew" a'",a"~.- SIt'WS ~onl"tn I,,~. 1,<)u,J, ,h~.~ may ... I.() I,.,
"'",.., i",ldl.,.l1a,ured IMn !IOUI"

rl<e ,~hl~on page 312 prov~,le. a ..,nO<' or ,he tli,,,..,,il)' of /i,h "'eW ~ci,_,
",,...... t~i.' al",O$' as man.'" .'an.."u 01 Ii.h "~"-s as Ihe .... "'" "o",bina,i"n' fil
Ii.h. muO! of ""hi~h ar<" ,h .. nalural Ou'COme of combining ing.-edi .. n.~ ~\'aa.bl.
,n. f"'"ic"lar "'gion. although many of the ~'.:lf!'e' of p....p"Fil1ion ..re ,h....._.
T1>e mpJ~, lish Sfews ...... "",de by I;,.,., pn:paring ,an ~ma.'ic liquid wi,h veil"...bb such ". onion, garlic. and lenn .. l, ,he Irimm,ngs !roIIl Ihe Ii.h. and wio ...
Whon Ihe n~"oro of Ihe "cgel"bl,-. jlnd 1,;,omin8" ha"c infused in ,h~ ,,inc. ,hr
l,quKl i. lhen "ra;ned in'o" 8Iraigh . ~ided ""ucepan, and Ihe p'~c~. of Ii.h are
,hen po;[ch.d in Ihe liquid. When ,he li.h i. lilli.hoo poaching, i, i. 'emovt'<!
wiln a skimmer and kepI warm while ,h .. pollChing Ii"!,,id is co.weMed inlo B
.. uct In Iradi,;onal Fren,h ,<'eil'''' where red wine is used. beUIT" man;~ ;s
",,,,I "hen u.ed. bm mor<' modern ve"iuM will oflen simply reducr the cookillf liquid ami finish it with bu" .. ,. While wine-based r..sh SleWI ~ mOlt "flrn
!i..iWd ";Ih cream or a mulu .... of c .....am and egg yolk.; .
.\hbough 'ra<litionall"<='Ci~ for f",h stew. usually lugesl poachin( Ih .. f..h
in. p",,,,ad .. aromatic liquid. this m ..,hod is otten imp~ in .. profCPional
WIling bec.. use ~ucing ,I... po;aching liquid ukes TOO Ions. It is ""'''' practical
'0 P"'p.ff Ii,h """,""5 10 order by rooki", Ihem in a Ii&:hdy COVi'~ pan with a
......tl ~"'OUni of arom .. IIc liquid lha, has been rrdl1ced in advance. In this way
11>0 pi.N!. "f fish ",leaae flavorfulliql1idl inlo the surroundina aromatic hue,
and liulf if any redutlion i. ""tftllll)' befo~ convertins Ih~ liquid into a saua!.
l"e p~P'l~ Ii,h mw H> order, il is best 10 COOk the' preeut pjec.es of r..h in a
~ JMrI with a small amounl of appropriate liquid (see the ~ of
it""'l'under "St..am.ins,w pap 3(8). In 'lOme ea-. .. for Rad W"me ~
(~31,.), ~ an ~ red wine redurtioa 1ft advuce and ........ it

:;-: the fi.h iI_ aeel&eat..tbod Wbera the pieen of &.II are o::aobd. da.y
be quidd;y ~ to hot pW. or bowk; the IiqWd reI&I!UIIIlJ'l dw
"""a.lhaa~mto.

__

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...~ -t iarv poKfl
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~n ......... ........
~
IOn>o.t tl
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Sonw-c<

IIwy bn,w" qu.d.ly.


___ RED WINE MATELOTES

,.,

I.......lway. h.... n

:oe
. non

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al

.Iar,. . . .- ,arI

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eli
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TI Mh .. . hm 'eO
.opo __
ar-:I d.,
L. liqu"l.hoc:k......t _h
n ...."II!. I It. __ ...
1000" dw ..d ....u.e .. :ooIo.d..
h~ Il"\IIIInU"P ..... I-.n f.--.
_oc
.....nd ...n.. and 'nluaod aMad of 11
T1
til
r.k
aR' ..... cool...Jl<; ",".na :o~,. ~
all
_lit -I II.
AI:
...du~ red W"
on:..h. Whc-n
pw< '" of r-.h aR :ool...
'..., <lulCkl-,
110
Wlth,..,
and..... 3...
... Son.. 1Mb
1'''' h
body dw an ....ic red
"'.... by bn rain(
d.
II
porIl.
hat a: ,,1 h.. "ifl'Ibl" AI r... h In
r
T1" Ir
.....w pmi. ~ lOr reo
P'*" ;::If .M lioh '"
bouq_ pm.nd ....Jlb.. .. ""'"

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I.>uqu<oIlarnl S'mm.... h. mIll"'.. ....';1. "\lhut....
he ,....d ~ wm .. h .. C"" nt' chmooa 'hh
-q ...... fI
T ~r:::
.....".... Reduc. I"....,.... u il
~/5 m
"'<'O,~ ....... SI

...bou.

froth II AI 11oa, 0 he M1r1

s.c..

:-arI

ro c

15 mlnutts. M
s,.1d~

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0
.J ........ 'oi
!'wAY u lhei....1.,. unit .hev ..h

...

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,....J1.h... oloJOml
f)Oll will : ' : 0
C he fioh In II

...

..

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1/

.n

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....

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r:

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r

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II

10

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n
"..... h:>l hr ~rou.. , "
n
parsley a: J

J P<'f'P

Jp

It

h.,
I
..~

".., .......'" J

h~ ch.,-

panlrv F
he
Iropo of COfru.:
...".
",... r "" liah "rn.... I... onlO"'

I""
10

11. ..

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td. " :.an h ....1 h ro ,.1,0 :HI. r.... OI' ...

\\'hit.!

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II .. m"OflJwtM fhep

kn",...., &lW ~ .. Ih. I


,low ,u
/I n.
or in ....
-...y. C xok " fish t. ,,'

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OWft.

0 .. 11 ....

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:If he b

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. '"

315

___ SOUID WITH RED WINE SAUCE

~~

........ ".,.,

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'UTOI. On,on . ....d ,.arlo. Owr mo:odium I...A!. pnlly cook the ~
unulth"." .. .tt~n "nd I"htl", brOl'n .bout 10 minutn

:\dd thr tqu"I.,,,llUrn thr h".1 ttl hi,h. Stir tI"'lIqllid _nd .. dwv ~
IN.. hqu;'1 a",1 lu-.-f' <>Vr' h"h he'''' un,a all the IlCfUid .......... .t.u"am .. I,~ Oil th.- bollom.nd ,>de. oI,f1t, pen. Don 1 .... n bum
\tl,ll~ r...J .. ,.....nd ,,",I.. In It", ~ pm. sa.- for .... 45
""nUI"- un.co~.,1"ftI 10 the WI .... rtdlKO!S lin.
<4 Won the flour and bunft 10f'11wr .nto .. -.ad! pule ~...MIl_
.. h,,.), ,nlo ,fit, antnwnJtt" ..UC't' .. t.it ... _ UMildw_ .... dor_
...,.... ~ ,...,..1.1..., 5.._ 10 tMW _1I..k and ~ ....... ....

OCTOPUS DAUBE
Cktopur. caItn

10 _ _

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wy _ .......

rdeue. ........,b....-.l .............. ..-dw ......._ _


Mw.-. 90 ....... fA - - . . . .. _ _

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"MOtS ~n..J"" b "von.J Am:! II.

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,bfm up" h down on ...... efl 'I);In ~ d '"
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up 80
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Jond
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inf ,I... ""..

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..n MSlltd jn,<> " ~rf...,tI.\ Ii ""' .....Iof p&n ....
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I""

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p<w:h'''I1i.
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c ........ _ c .... fi
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---e

SCALLOPS tTOUFFtES WITH CHIVES

--

K.,oapl. OI.!.rwY wilt


;usseI lit lin

lit

.,

Kallops crop...
oneh. M .... ,!i....
111 .....1
.;iJ
,oo"' ''IC '"uid.n.~''I.'ar1,'l''''' " ....
'r pan "J <li,trilo,., \. .call",! ,n .. " ",ie .....n la,er
:-'r Ih..
I~ ,.,' .<IId pt...cc 11 ,:wer hif" h..." I,,, .. pp",x""",,dy 45,.,

Cu,

t l

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M lid .. f to an .....r.t ...
10 10 " plat"'"
Wh.... II..
~ ' ....... ,nl ' d,.. ~ , ,:>Ok.., h,.trod ",I

.r.".

R.;;;;.

......

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F"a M h.. fc: ""'''f .,1 ,..",., npatrtl.
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n " .........J opcon
an ~ ... nd.fr~ CUI'\,&1
m .. _1 which an: SI
l1.vorl
olon,t."., ...... &t.. avaiLd

_ "'" ...._l'.......

if....

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GRATINtED MUSSELS WITH SAFFRON HOLLANDAISE


I.IItu"t'<

;10'

II

mu_

r>d heir cooJ.

M,......J:lJ"O'n

:luwdu be ~ "'"
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'SI~"" , .........--' '''''''''''C IkJuid .h ........ alinr .t.i....;.. ...
~ ..."."P"" k ....."".,I". ",, __ I ...... lh~.h~11r.. s..,~k.If:..~~~;
.. -I, thrill ,hon" .. hlv (J." lh.", "II. h_ pan ,n.2&err
J Re.lu ... II. .. m,,~ ...1 cooI<;", Ii'I""II", Ih ___ q.....,~"

Corn]"n.. <\'1' ("II ""U;I,,~,") ,,1 ,I,.. .~due ... 1 m_I ......
, ...... II ...... I.." th .. ...J1""1 _I. h" 15 " .. nlltH.
W}II.1r. , ..........,&r.J .. fTron'Ken,,~IIII"_1 c.... I" ... hquid ...... . .
,n 2 'lUo1r1 12 1,1<,) .,.u,~.,... ..... h lIIop'''I ...!n IInlil,............;:
_.allv .1.."" 20 octon<l... I'I.,~ the- ......~ O'o'tr . . . . . . . . . .
~... n"n,", whoak,"f ~ I~ 1w"1 unhl , .... mos;ture _ _
Il'uIh.v and .Idl~n ...

b. \\ ...... ,h.. d.rir....lhuu.,rintol ....... yoll, ~ Adlll"dw~........

J.I,"I 1110.... <Iaril'''! bun.., 10 110",1..... ur by.Jd,"I_ .....


hquid. ",am, or OIh.. r liquids 10 ,hln
~.ikd ..... dw ....... in.~ ..... illC .. _ _ ~ ........._.,
wuh !Xppet" (hue DO ..h)."" It... ..,..-:h _ _ ..,... ....
8. fIIoct. ........ _ I 01 the hoi C,..N .pa.ct. . . . . . . .
........... add ......... ...d to.t

. _on

-om...,.. ..........

') Cowr .t-t pM wilL. dUck . . . ol c.rw ........;.~'~-;a;;-.;;;;;;;;

..........

CI

the .... ,... GrabM ............ ..

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.,p

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on r ,h ........1. w 'f4~ .. n! 1eT"" .. ~ ....' It.
i .. "h lots or ru.t~ bru.<i. "'.... 0' ,he ",lad. ",&0:<1 I. n.u..
"th )IIUIt" .........,..-,., matiU"d I .... ~ ...,.too Jill uaeJ

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CRUSTACEAN
SAUCES

Crustaceans an.' members

or the class em,'lflUIl,

.:t

...,aun word that mean!i "shell." Crustaceans have jointed


bodies. appcn(bgcs (whi('h may b\.lcgsl, and antennae

.\\o'lusks. including c.'lams. mussels, scallops. ovstl,'rs,


I"ads, squid. and octopus, have uns{'gmcnted bodies anti
Ihll~ are (:iassificd

dillcn:ntly from (,:ru.


laer-ans, though both g-roups are
consi,.cred shellftsh.
C-usLlu.'ans are trc...ated

separ<.lldy from fish and olhc..'r

shellfsh I"ec.'duse the,)' han


certain charolctenstics

'''--

,hd.t reqUi. e specl"i


treatmc,'nt b.\ the

\ " .',dc..' \ .trlel\,


'"
If
) t C h nJqlJCS 15 used to extC.lct I hc 113 tUI "I 113\ ors
f, um ... rusl.J. ... cans dnd to I ann: I t I ht;m IntO 6if,UC ('5,
S41tKl'

mit kCl

.".J;\1~..I'<,,<h""l..... f"'....M< .......... p ......


~1a,_."

n' .. I ...

na . . "fll .....

-pew'"')

h..

.o.J'"
,.......,.01 inwn d.I'H maIO" I'an . , .... ct"01I ~
n.
It... ,h. ",mal )' a l ,I ,... ~.
t.~ N.II '"
..,.1 for ,-xu,,'-"'" I\",,,, Ir..... ~., h
, hno part. an 'I,,"n. and

...u,.he< ......

.. h_I", ! """,~ly.

......... ,"-

~1 ..,,,,, ,.~~., ....,..I in'''' ,h,' n ~. h-" ilo. rhl,i IUOl ....... , .he
".' ~ 11............... 1~1;,~,1 hurn ~0,,~ '''1 li.h " ",1 m~ at.),
an
....-....... 10 'l it ..,..... unJ u'l 1'0"1.,,,, hqu .. l, Til....
..
con<
r.. II. lL.vor and u.....uv ,h" I"
" lIh ....... 'YI <II
t' Ir._....,a .1 .... nbe ll .. ,'ON'C! wl1h
hl;'-'naI~_h.""",,,
C~....:.'"
.... a .......\1<)001 tradll--,al .... l pe. c..J1 for >TOW ...... tao

u~,.., th~ ,.. "I eN "

""" wllh n....vor COft'OI"'n,eo Ito ... '... . - . 1 . h.. llo.l$ bt-In.... .m.,' 1"1"1<1 .. .. dd~d
11 h ~U. of C NtI ",~ .. ns <'(In,a,n CI>"'I'" ,.. n" ,h., un bt- lIMO' IOP""'ioIt
~ a: ~ naval' 10 .liniohe<l Muee. Tllf I~..-hnoquu for n:1'"a<1'ng III .... .oaopa
:a d Tf'
~ _
....10."" mdhod. b.auw I!. ('<Impel !fttt
.... ub..
and I ,..110."" dw .....Ie._ Th. ,uo ~ . niqu~ for n~ :ate
'1,;....... and color ........ _ac:ett . hrlb 1& JY ;>n,";"''' '~
bu'e"eatl':wprepuec'nadv&ll~and c..d".l'ir .."" .. ,
lit

,hop~

0 " ...... ;1.1..

C".._

,.UI . . n ",1.... hut ff_


Th.m05lIl.. -t. partlnl

"""'Y. ...
n

~.....

;mth.('OO'"r

_) I,
IlK

::.sl~.na.ro IM~o ...... I\c:v(I,''''').'''1 ~n1"

"",n)

:ypn,lcru_<'el''''''''''''''.,n<' all,'
.... ",",,hu,,,.,!'h.i!'

d ..... ~I..o,_"

"blrandeuyli' rm<Y 1.0


t:o-.l ... ' t("" I' m.... be handk<i .m
.. !My .... utnmrl~ ,__ hal:; md ...MIII 10 t -' Cor.al .. ,J' ...., ...
pru
need .... J.r fla
.h.." ,.Ie
-b... eoolu-<I t,:. ,nW<l",",II, llooft
pont'ntt.hou be Uoed .., t.r rn.' rnd ,1 ,IMO Utl, ,-_ ..... k ",1'''''''''1
F. "1U" .,...... ;"..,ac-r...... '_'I""" _..n :..-,.,Iy ,,,U,I< h~",,-al,I.- Keo 1.... 01' Ie"
" ' " ai' t". p1'Y!-n:><1 UI."I' ,-.bs. f(!!' ,Mtan,-r Sam. of Ihr lI,chn'q ..... III' h.
-hor UI" I ,he .. -tlro, ...d L~I""') v ...... .J'prn,l"'l On,M 1:'11'"' "I"~

T,'PES ()I' CRlSl.\Ct:.\'\S

C r.b.

",~I"", ~~ ,,~,

All c,f ,hr ...... , v_to of, r.J,., a<l be ,,_I lor .... ua
.-pi
.......
. ,.hI.. ..+" I. ",,'0,,1.( !:or r" ....-bn . "liy
,\l1l1uu,h'twrr .. It'" ...:
, ...... pn Jc"....-I.pK,I"al}" f ..., ....1.., ".t,....,.. .,.JuIloI' .....
....,""beo .. _'t..'
10,kAfI .."I ..... u.u.alh
T k&I'lk
tu, n ,hrm, """'. ,J ...... , ..' ,new<J" d, ....
h h,,,,II .... r\ ......h .h.arl'

e~ptlll''''.

...".~

oI~

"'~'"1."I'"

,~
"""""~

..

. T, '"
o ...t' , 1><><1,I
....... ~, tr

,,.

,hI.

f"'""'fI
.,tf

",I.
.n,l ....J.

,..
.hrII.

...

NI ,., p,.,.-,.noI>O

~,",n

le<'..... n

"..f.

",III
_~

,I

~u;u

rTK.. '

I...,,,,

I,veer .\fo.h
:II",Mp-epAnJ'&I,.r. u... m h.. li
V

if)'

. t. Lobo
h .. h,d'l< "'par _

..

J;.I Wh .. nb
, ..... cn~t;
..e, '1.m ""01<1>001. u,l
...sc hal ,n V It.n
m:IU II...,
I all,.
on,est;
run~ '\II hroul Ih
~ k ..,m<n'fll If om ."" 1"... ay
y Ih
1i.U x=
IS~'"
:d af,
TIM!)... he u Htirw
pi!)

Jr.,,,,

\I

'u'o.'rn .... [ b'

p ... rna. So

t ......... '"

WII)

~\-

t"

of 11..

"PC'

IaIbc n

:lUI

"

OU.II

I. ..... ,I-

h. uld
Ie

10

"~ nu.rk

1"0 nd on "on....... "


I<-h ,,1..1

iff,""

.-

II'r.

/J

,"

,.Th.

110 Ii

'" nn'" InC' ~

II. Sou W.Y.~ .hnml'" a) f..h


.. n"'~
:tl :tIOI'"I( eN

...,

rh ..

i<!

'" '
\u)

;00

I .... I~

..

iL. .. In app rar

Th.

." I ale

.h h

I" ,.

)21

"pn'"

'n,I~,.nd ."1",,

....1.n.!.,.....\,r<I'n'... _
...
1.0.
I 1(1 ,,, 1

......vb.. _~ .!wlol."
,II> ,t... pol ,....
".1,.
....1 F
I&MeI
,1, .... 11...'"
.... ..-,..1 rn- II .h~1I r: ...... In '
.."hac M~"'" f .. ,h.1ob r anhr,u" 'c:n
.... ... t . '111
h,.. , .... J....b.....
V
w I. - , ,. """" br,
U Il_ntI! ,)
...., .. k,
I'd, ,I v
P .. aIt> . 11 ',he
5t...- ,,,,,, I",,, I O nly ,t... ..nail ..""". II
01
1tuo,1.. \,1 hr ~ ..... rdoo.l'
u.....c s...... \~_ ,- ,~ ....
_11<" ..,..l,...
................ \I

,."".p"
t" ,h

,.,.,.,..1..

"".ran

~..........
0:'. . . 100 ..
' .&&I " ... h .. n"" '~ "'bol"'"
pounc1I' k ..... )10
-.to ""n .:tb.I , ....1 F.., ..s..t._.

..,00,.... .. aood ..,

C'U1b. Iob.c.........., _
..... ~ "'~ I upon"
.........
..
.....1. p.m Ki ...I,I,. Y ~ .tt: al we . ..., ..... I' .. ... .. ell '''' J..rs< . "",,-e, ~peN.l,.Ltb" ..d

fir, '

It, .....

;0

.. w 'ha, hu ;ol mp "" ;:! I,,,

cl..w ... '

1.,'" ....',-.

\lw.,y. "M f."".,!., 1,*. 10''' Ii" ..UCo:' tn. lulI,

be.:.iU,,' ,I,, ",....11) ,......,

', ... ' , oJnlnb"," , ... h,' ..u e. T,. 1.11 tI",

,MT~< 1""'........ ..w..1IIIi

cnral

f,......l .. lo'""'.~ ,urn II I,u,.,,~ .,.. '1 o:'''''''''1W ,f-.., .,,;..... 1<1' hn'''C.ach.,j,.
ot ,.he
of ,h.. UII rt". 1,..... ,110'''' IOM~I '" It... bud I~, ,h"ud....!
ne...l JO!1I).n I,.an:! ...", hrmon II... ,n_ ....1 of. and i'-'sibI. n m.1~"'" E.,
mp<'&" n. 'IW 1OfIl..1I".n. all 101' loho" '... lhat .OR 'p"Wflln, Thr undt-nod. aI
.. "I"'''
loblt"". ,1... 11 .. ,hKl.ly ,n, ,usl...! .. l1h . . .'\arl..eh"tl cl ......
"'f' lolm," , '"""."... ill"....1 It, .hr l n.,,~1 Sc,>u.'1

Ito;.!.,_
"II'.

Rock l.ob.un

\1.0 1._ n ... If.. nv I"hdf'n. ,..,. k lot....... :on .. mllar 10 ...plar 1oI.oRn
,I........ rhrv ..,... av.. ~bl. (,.......n t.uropt anJ _ I .... hcik
I.... \;nll ..... S,al... t ruun "",I. ... bsl .... 11. from Soulh i\miU. ScoutiI
and N"" Z .... Lo"'1 .f1I <>h .... "'I'\~I In .M l.,:nll...l Suln. but I..,. . . .

.....r ""

y"'u~ HI UIM .. malr."lf

'-<><4.. ...

pI.o.,
II

1..

_ uI

.... .":or.., -. . . .. . . ,

".
..
"",.
" ..oIIl

M bull

Iiah shrD.

In

l~n ...1} '4""...-


nfripr......
f .... ",n
II-

and '" be-

"

II;:;OIf'

'OUR

.,

1<'" .......
lUI eede.. Itk~'n

lk

. . Ind

.1,

'-

".

0 I.;u",~

h~

unln an co
::.owl 01 an rlrC1J1C" m""
II
in 1 hr )OWl

"ur...", )

"'f'lll"Drir.~)

..

\It'- d

,:ktk hIM<:k
hl~b , .....

10

.... _11y.1r

.&ow SJ
won. ,I
,t'~m'lIlure .... ruahold" . . hrr

::<.rr ,,' f II

tI

'uOo.p

lUI

&~

tnJ, ....

T 1I1h.. m'~rr up t1itlllj ,n,J wOTk ,hr ,It

"he

.....11'
il

III

.ho. 1.1 ".. Iu

II o.'<'n Ie :.!50'" (~2O"C) . r, .f..,


he, )Ot 11 he ~ tKJ.~ ,II,

-,.

~,

"'

Ih '!KIn..,

.n

lh hr h"lIt' 1<, ~o a.

)fl . . . . . 'nO"

0101

I'" I lilt, 1 Ie

hr.,

It

a'.,, ',y.bon"",,,

11m", ,,-.111 :~

',Ie

'Ih ,:wrn 'or 1 "oUr ~'n... "U'H''\ 1::1

n'

",

'-">

i,,,,. ... h h ...

. "'"

, ....

It .329

ClWJftuftUI 0.:1

CtUf~a"
I~r.. 1)1 I e wei n cok- .. .......,h.. yo ... uod
Deu... M ~ .. f)r Ih ..... ucea II
~I.,r to I ~.o C"","
oil. o-...,'Nn oil I' ~i"'re.l by ",plums ,h. bum'
,h. C~ ...
rKipr W1 II ,he :til &I )Un' r In "1-1 '; , :iiI. W
.:>ftp.1n
mao oa
In.P
"'11
b to. ;IF:H1II hem
I. ~.. n h .... &I
.nllt
.....
.. 11
I
w' "" con
one: h_ II:
IXlI'r "';Ih e
1M
"UI<:ht-, up as,' wo;.4Ild -.vfw,n I~
~

&.IltI"~ ....d.

1r1../, ('rw.;l"~"_
OccoUi
y. I.uai ~'pewill .tlor. ,;>lTlp",nd,.d'... "'........, ""
cookee en u.:unl. To p'..,pare'~ b,,':I~''''' p_,,.ft ~U<l1 part> ball "",
ked ancI ~11ed "'USiaca.n
.t u' (l food pr<KeM" \Ir' .... "" bo

Ihrovp ..

~n m _ .....ut ..

at~'

pla.lI PUffV

S a, .\ .... ric.in ..
AI-: .,hl~ ...... m""'~&TWlo" ,1,1, ,1 ....IC ..~VN'"h ..
1''''Il0l'
loOn"" u .In<l<l.l ~UM " .J .. m.,',Mr", .... ,. ,flV oj ,I,, l~h"'I'''''"

. . n._ . . ' . .,. ,'. . .IT'~.'"


II ..

...... &J

....'

hfli

130

..

14

N!

'p<' ,.IM"

NI

nih

,.J.I

aI,j

1,,1,111.... "h .. h

,h_ tf

'''.~,. \lO "h'"


.-r: ..... be- ", u I (l

f>It".,

,,"

".

.,...u

...

'"

h ",.tut

"

,M

..... r.
_b
<

", ,"... .,

.n
"'"', " "

........

c.~

..

~ ....

.....

. ...... ...

'

...

... ,

...

fo

>"

.n

..........n
un .......

Cab

~-

-u_....
plr.uc

J..

...

..... CLASSIC SA.UCE AWtRICAINE

)31

~.

_fl

-_.--. - .,....
_e"",10

"

1tin.. . h~

0<

.t~ ... undo

-"

,.,a.! nlnn

.-- ..t... Ilobat~r ..

....1... for I, .~ .... ,,,,J. and ho


I..... t. ......"ly -.I) T,
,llon,~IIr.v In
,f.,; I.... . ,h~ IoI... ~ ... m..... he 1 "I' a1, ..
....1 .10.1 .,,,
in h,,, ..,k ..;'I.. o(,I-."" ... ihapa;
~,U ,h.. loIl .. r ~""I..b .on .hotn """i.. tI
~IT
IDIdio.r
~~ro...,r.o ,"..t .... r
a" N1 It.
Ih.; At( li .... l) lr: ,b.,,",,\ ..
M.d ..~d ..... hand .... l ... hack .til", ..... i1W11h :he",her T_ ....

1C

.. h,lehold"..,L .. ,,"' ..... AI :lIne" ~


Ihun
Sq;
'''"_
Ih,u.,!)
nln .UO 'he fln,,...,,.. (If .he 1oL. ""
"n,l., on. am .. bo.ud. lIOn"Ie of k )UlCn ru .."" ..... an
).,.
Iha."U::
10 1.. .Jaykil1rd '_n"
ilodoc t
I ..... bInpoon \I II'
Ifff,J
...-w VI ~Iar .ond
poa Cl
'"I)of.1 l:....
lilt10 H," b.;.
"WI

fi...,. ..

10

I"

ler IUKes.

Rea. n'''!>OIJ
~ I at I II .a.
.he lobaer WI
p
ld :o..JI"d lima
at :lplacrt!
,,,.1 ,
f I.e ........110:
~ P 0 .... ~n. anJ h.. CO

~r
~.

m.... t;.loCk.
P _ II- ("0

".IV.'"

'"'

.;rt.,.-.. ....

Cb ... " on.,.r..


'!I
II
!>sI..n II "OUJ"

J ~Irv
f ...n ..c ,L
"U ... I~n
hruup ... 1I1'IUnn" ..... 1" fi
UIh.n"I~ 0.....
:lc;orJ"'1
P'"
.I~
,.
ov.r io:e
n I1' "~m or r:: ..
~.b
'''" ... will p -obal :) have... ;') b

.....u I..dk A'

~.....

'0 ......

C ,II
......
10. . . . 1,0 )
11
10 .. " .... ,
0 ...",.. 1,.,1
f..... "h.,r
1(. .. , h.. h..... '.,
U
MCLC:a.:k
h.o
... n'~
oI ...,oil .of'
I. "ft" s,.u.
'"Ib.t.. r
J'WI al
..... h~ hal ..t
la.

) Ions (l1
00 ....

h.

"

an"'"

I,........ ...

"

112 . .....

U. ,h.....

om

~""I~'''~1oot>et
1 t'Io~,,,........

_I

. . . 01

~,~

lor

oMuld

,....

"'.....'1

_,,"""au...... hV ......
M......-....

~........
.d'--"Ir''''

ll~'"
,lot

'Wi ('....

~ ........,

. _ . _ ....

, ....

....f.,...

to

aJ"

-.,,,",

.........1

",ill.I."",

cup

01"

C......

.......,J

., ,

, ....

0-"'..-.
... ~
........ """

_""'

,.,0141"0

n.r.

p ..... . . -

pe.... _.I~
' ... 101.....,. ......,.0 ';"1...........,_ '0
....

f.

,,,",

q,R_~ " Jabll'" - , ' I'


....1.....", ..... ,",
&11011>.:."
",m .........11... , .... ;>eM ....1 "-..ok .1,,,,,, "" ".....
I_WI"
I'"rvpr "''\' roll,ng p ,
for ,I. ,. Co
o ~ ... J
.10 "I',J ,"t'~i .. n'"' for 00.,,211 ......

"",d.....

.",.1,1"0'"

I><"

""

.....

III''' ...,.tl .., ~ ..; .heft ..........1d


.."I. Ii ,........
~

hen''''~.rlJ1''
12 upa (SOD
'II

.,.,.........:1 ..J,Ie.I. Red

'50...

:Joe

n) ~~ .

.....-""

C.......
t. fur

.1.0

xUrr '0 "'.... I'TC"(JU<'t'

(It

tc un<ktTO'<'!. ~ II.
.,kkd. h ,ber tfii ]I>n
""

nod....,. "-"tb I)..... p:


~ ill

II

10.. poon.

... in'/ ,.......

,~,

'1M" \dd

:. '" lui" ,n "


~

/'u,.Mlobtt. . . .1....J~I.,
oIor h..

I~

.
I.

.. V

Jar c~

;01. .. ...h d,

""old

will

J.,.,. no

"''''
]n

,,,kl ,..

h
'....

..

T ......

at

II

'"

""~"'"
1/

<";u\(t'1

,..-1

or,",

"

So. ,

U<'t"

, ...........

.n k'h ~
II
.yfi'" I,.-,.,rr. ie" ,
... ........
fill. I..", 61 t
I

j,u

.... ," oeo.IlK.'<'f1 ,e:


pu ....... 011'
,wd. Jl.o .m .. 1 I. d.
...,..-d ",u
;II.

loaM... Pal...... ... JIG h.


~ 100
n.: 'rrt,.'e ,h II

........ I>

OC'Cur.

Iw -..Jlr..

C""M

(,..,a. :

(THn

u~u~

kr!y d..... lor


~,... ~ y

II

!WI

.. M

Iw
..d b

Iwv ......

)1.11

II

.Slilon

....'''11 ( :M'''' ...,

,n '"" ,I..

:Iw

Iwr

lien .nd ~

ben.....
:lair
l... ,m -.bI"

and "ed~ .Iiehl],\'.1


... ~
Jlk. of dwl.. h , .... n.1 .... n"
Iw ~~. ,.rr"l0n .....d , ....... il

I V.

".

.. ,he
~ by ...u.
f, ,,,,,"" re:iuctoon

lift..

.n......,'

.... '

cru~la~'"

,:."..,.....;

IKr 1:0

...

.' ' l'{:.dU&'

"n ...... ~'

, ." ,.

Jll

. ." -'

....... pn

I.'" 11""r

... '

"

CLASS I C

f .... 01...-1.

,
"

SAUCE CARDINAL

..

--

.....

ot(C'" ....

u,

_I

~(ef"\

Wh .... In"

~
~

la,'"
d. ",n r

ftWI.

~.

rn m

;>II

btu!

Rr
<t

",..,.

\.A:"

~ry

...

,'IK"' ....

...

. ,. ..
'"
... PC>

_h"K

_~ 10 ....

oI;.ter

. 1:0 11

..lIIM' he

..

H"'''. St-e

___ CLASSIC SAUCE NANTUA

"

hoi' ...
...

nod

IC'

m", n

.b ..
It

CUp"

n.,..

lOO

....

...

...."
~m~'"

wllh h..n
~"m~n
\lIk,~d... ,
~ ,\<I,u ., ..,
" ' .Ind ~n"n ,h...... h. in... '" h
h..

_ _ CONTEMPORARY SAUCE CARDINAL


ANO SAUCE NANTUA

JJ4

" ."

. o~"

----

... ""
. """':.'" _
...

" ,.... "


'

.~

-,

-,

...... CRA'(FISH SAUCE


o.rtd I,kr
I"n .. ! :lither ... ~
:en"""
u.h an ..".a.b..t ....,.."... ,/w ..... CAl 1It'-ct
...i .and l: ~ni, pant II C'nYl
ad....: a.... All bot
CllDkrd'" _
t. "eal~ a c.-.yfi.h ......... bur l1w huio: If<
e_
.....lhoduoedf,rdeprepanhJllof ..uuamolri a,
.1IIh ....... lire , .., .
.. M..D ..,.,
an pur<'w al~r dun, .nd ~
h
. tl.o",,...{ 'r"ayl;,h .... ue.,
Ht .... ,.i1.,COft... inanu".ie:"'h ~'nune. ~Iw.,...ily .... edah "~
In """,fd
pin, hi", h., rip 0' d. ""I It j r n, it "'I.

p.

80-

,h.,

.,....,..n .....

,la_

..

--- ....---

". '"

""'"

...... -

A_~

"

.~

II\lIIIIit"'"

'"
,"

.~

.'j.;)

.
~.

... .. " .'"


r

"
"

",

t I......... '..........
yt... ! ),., Mol ,"} ,. d
aabk..,.J 'Iuo< ~h .. lore ~ ' .... m. , .....
R. _ ,n., cu,.... ."
:oId ... n
' ......1 .. ' ''1...11 ( I" ~< )
. . d _ .... . .
-.I ",.,.d p"
.1. W....n 10.. v~ ..bin

......t,

'"

q .... ,.,...... ",1 ..,., 1>

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hu bC'.-n ..ddC!d '0 ,h" ,uc,.':>r I"


I

II

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'on.

n..,..,"1

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ion h.o;

j,

dw.p"f ,II

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..... whnhn"bIC
;u,.... b . 1
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,)
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h... th
fh ~-ortr.I .. " n.\"".IT ,bu' h "I

n..

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f w. ""rb,. ~
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.. on ;on .. I,. .., h "",.I'a i ,ni.h ., <TUI..... ' . '

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...

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,i'on..

')f"Iw ..,_," Tht" f1,'\)1" ..... ,,:,

and ...... " l ,

..... :-:h,
I -

till.

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ft

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no!

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,\\.0. Y t..f. and
:nil

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van
",n .

lO i """'P ~Iell

ply

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""elal::. g~ ,...,n In". AI ~ p..
' ... t I _ 'II.
:IN fllliohoo!
Whfn pnrpuin, 011"... .. ,",", you ahoul.! de.
.....

M'1"i'e 1"_

flavor

.am."..,.

II ""Se Iml ""n"'-'DII

" J.. , It

exam

c","~.n .. u<
,/011""

10

.), ~.n
IlOl
1OlIow. n.. muu.room. u.n :oe MUlftd .n PI .r'...,..- ....,...
or
WI "
-b.. .and.. ;.Iy ftWftled on 1M .. ~ of II: .,a..1~ alone: _I> dw W
n
l>erfeo.:tly &-:: lal: , m..d )0.\ On the 'Mf i :No
:iel AI
pk.. "y lhat ... on.. _II '" ..;ua
If you wAI' hI' .pI.... duo
vcr, 1h. ~rd hnuld b.- coolr.i j ao Ihal th,if Ila,
an ix '" '1iI'pO' ..I
tbelllCe. '0
11.... '..... a_I.l, .."""'n.o'I" ''\lAUCUI'':ooIo.
(c
IItl Ii j .u~h .. c...am r.. "ex"",
n,b~,.'1onil....,c k
bn... uvdl a: :I cool. Mmo...,laln .. ,.. -."dMUCO'~' ,hiM' ,tI
Ii :..d """"''lI' II
id ,h j M r..'.~ ,.' 1'1-..
....

Irnt munt. (.

Ioba

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..-=

c .....
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n: 'rua
1C..,rv. -..c.......... h
"'&1'1" ,
and ... rpoaonc'; :""':><>d. Wh~n' 'III I",,,, .b, -ook.! .... liojuKI fl' "

an be. , .., ... nllu .1. ...


'),"'" 'I a ",':MI~, Ull' i",~yi '..... et ....... ! '...... '~
ear.
anal.
.dIC,1 n,.h.l .... ....., .. h~nll",fl ...., 1111'1' .....
It>
~f" h.yc Jr ,-.}f",h 'h;~. h 1,.,,,,,,,\\;0.. ,,

..

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- ....

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....,"1 ........1

., "'

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...

... ~ ........... -.J,I ...

'I..,ored ","I. .....1,,,

H
...... "llh lomalO

an'"

rH.

V(W'ed

I,

with

0'

"

DJan. and I)rr;,a'''''.

... ,

)Ill''' ; ' .

I'ini.h.,d ~.uc ...

ctu.:h, I ocl. Tli51-t Will~,fL ..o~


>III

lld.t.d.C" .... ~.u~

..

h h. I. ,n

P "'P .... Irlv r.


I. pK..illl

..,.! mo\

ell

.... pJ'<'n '

~Llt1'on

't ...

Sa .. ,

t.
'-lm

11

...
)41

1..'0.\10. '1;':'\(; (:Rl ST \ C I .\ ....


\ \1 111 U Tili" ,> 111 I.L I ISII

..
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"

a''''''
,

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,c

-'

"',' .... "

f,,,,,,, <T\
,",,,"

,~

.....

iHII."I ... l1'iah

"

"

) ..II< 1

___ MIXED SHELLFISH FRICASStE

<

.,.

~~

..

_....

$ ........ opt"

- -..

, '"
"'...

,ho,

h.. (""kle. a: J

It.,

,1'4"

~.t

2 T.I..

:l

oul ( ,

3 Coml

""an _

;:ItS WId It.

It..

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Chaf"rnJ
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U.!.lIsR..

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,... .

."

hra.nl toe

Sr.the

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tl

h'

......

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> ,I hnmp

" .. h ~ ....

t..

,.h

d.

. LIe

.bo

~f' ;>1..1"'. and pour , ......""


II

,', ,.

..JELLIES AND
CHAUDS-FROIDS

\.luraI meat and fish iellie~ (soml"limes called a!>pics)


",romong the most subtll' and delicious 01' foods. and
:an I:Ic the mo~1 beautifu l: ..\ breaM of chicken or fillet of

lish surrounded by a golden herIN.pecked jelly is a delightful sight. Becausl" al'opics lenclthemselves to
manipulation -their inta-in ie quality compromist'tI

by the addition of l'X('CSS gt.'latin - theyarl'


thought of more as Luilding materials for the fal

!lung fantasies of lat e-nineh.'enth-century French


\'ooking than as delicate accompamments to .:old
neats or lish. \0 aUlhcnllc Jclly is the 11al;Jrai
cooking liqUid from mCcll or lish, which sets when
cold. In I'r"on', thl' term

a.tfl'

osunll,\

rcfl'rs to a fil'at ()r lish preparation

,hill

has !.let'n molded and htld

log("the'r wllh the' appropllate'


4tll.'. or Ielly In the
L ml~ States. whrre the

\\ or(1 lelh ,. hnngs

to

,...n........
J
....

:Id~,

1.-.0

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-h....

n....

, 1><,...

'0 .... II

II.

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I. II

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:0101
a'a ..... ,-t-i' 011' ......
.... hq
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ch
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po.I

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j,"f

350

..

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boil; ...

bo',1

A' ..
"'I"

"and;/

It,,,", ..

&II-

.. ~

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~""-"'A'_

..... _r..t,

-.

."..

".
..... CLASSIC MEAT JELLY
II>(

id.r-:>cal

I act,k.d h .. II.. .uif.ed


.....
and tgwhn.a. &h' ~ pl'O~rk .ade-atJxlr. anh .'n
.d
- . ~ 10 boil at.. Id :JC"I
he- .kI:ion qa:
n.. ......... noc,pt :;.!l. for mo-at ".. t iX'"
In ;sr.&r.:
aI,
. . . uI or ftf .han .... 111;"","
I, Of' chi Iu
c:;.1CoUoSfl. wtlh walft' 0Ir
....
at""
11_
' ,n
1'-" Jal b c~ ."i.... If- .. nd
w.....tw.; ...&1 fOOl" uh ,he,
On.. II'~I fool,
II 1 hal,,", .......,
w6l1ou ... ~U '" 04 'I an~.( ~ ....J 0 Ii'! itl..,
e-ssary" ,a p
......... 01 ,,!.J.n II at WI be I: he 'in~hod
\ ,I
',no. euta of at an
III<L

"i....

-](1..

or

alrudy Ct'lat.
...;u IIOab

II..

....

ftn ..hed

-..au - .

x..

wd 10 m(>3h'n h..

:y 100 FL.,

'DUI-

certain Mil AI VII.oU '" 1. I

I' . _

ai, h.. n ado.

....
J

_ .. o ,.

351

..

.,

......

aU ,

-.-... ...
--

. . . 1'

.-

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- ,-

10 m " ,.,' ,I .. m.".I .pI1l ......1 !.....,"n ~"I,f

....lTr

If .. , 'v f-wJ .. ,.,lIy .. W""'~1. omi! Ihi.

"

'"

,Iw W-'!Ioot

.. .
~

lI",p ) I'~h~ I IIw""'n 10 Xrr


1M mfoOl on1on hall....... ,,~stu,Jded wn" dw ~ ....
<""'01 .11 .. ~;n.c pa.n, .",II'fI"I~ b",...n them In IIw oven

, ()(T'C ) I'ta.:~

."...w"r ,hO'

IT,.- nd WF''"''" (.noIl,lanch...J vrallOOOl If ...... "''''

.
Rod... Sl_-h brine dw ~
,h'."'O<.II.J uk~ ..lie.., ~O m.nul...... .t..ouId_boiI Sb.
o I an ..,..,... or 1 thai 11...... 10 .he ...rt ....-r
>\Jd tM bouq ...., 1'''''' .noJ ..onlmUl" .,mm.,n", lhe Moo;k r.. 5-...
II ll~ ,.,11.\ lIock I. p"rlr' ,II t I... r. _",,"ult.V~" It t"roup .. ~
nms, ,fw" .. fjr~ "'nO.lo and finoltl.\ a tj~ .... I"nrn.llned with ~
II. lor ........ f<,_tn. ,h ... lI<xk II doudy, il WIll nft'd to be dari6.d <_,u.o.l'1 ' i.f Ii'ff) "'~"poe.nd ..td I~' old

!, . . . n

..... r

"C.... n(\1"5 Jdl,., . opJ'O'olrrj

-eCLAR I FICATION FOR MEAT JELLY

Ln., 0'

,.

(~

.~

....
Cu-

yn

1 fro

"''" am
.

Ih

l:inder >r 1"",1

'51 tac~h.-r Ih

....

p """ h~

."".hop)
".1 . e I.lrragor> .. oo ..

III.It' ...... III

'h
\\

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II .q
II

.-,

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~ k If
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h~ .... ("
.af",
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1M,
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t ,.-1... ,...
I"n-' .... "':\.1...... 1.0...... p;a1"1
r~' ",h MItIh c-.w h
lined
l.uI ...... ~

~h ........

I J,.

I s II .1 I I I . II S

......-.'"

FiJI ",II,",

S"fI
... 1........ WI. I ..-.., ....,
h........... m ... ho.l.
,..... ...1 ........ '".., -.....- '0
h .h Ii.h bon...
, ....,
.nJ "",al f...,. :u'e 6 hou .. ) 1Jc,d plll.n
Jly I..... .o ,nl. he ....... '"
ruriy
eO'".a ,ela,;n,
F Ih )' h.. , .... li ,on.~lh he~n 1'.... I... r~d by ..I.. " d""hlc
mo'" )ll in"~I ....ai,.f",""f"}' .h a p...
mackt,,_)
iIy.
~,-H..I ,",hi.., 'I.' Eaco ... r c
.. hilll
,}", .... me '".' " for ...., M
fith ,~Iy e
pan
, h.. me thod hul Iw Ja....... .... rr I'
......
,..,....t_u c. AI H I' r...h r. --:on ')C in,...wrled I,altl ',I- -.I ~im :cal.... h
l'
'"
,.. "I.. ,...Jy "II .... _ . th.... 1
lit
r. ... .fOlk ~o n5 lin I",,,lccl ,.. i!.n I I"......... 'M' ar
I( " .. ,n
i.
\.
~ .. ' Ie n <hoL ~. i r ;, lin" all ' , " iii,
., r...h .,..d.. can
Iy p ""pan
.a::>n)C' I, f'C"
11k ..

'kj"

.. plV.'n n.-d I.; n h "h


h 0' ,. napl' If to
icllv .. _ ....1.. ..LiIf
xk" "b...all<- ,oN I
aq J ""Iw.
anf y Jr WI of! .. "I "dl~

icllv

or ...

~.

- - - . CLASSIC fiSH JELLY

111"1

..... , ... It... ,

._

'HflI~

It"

..rut.. '....,

,,,
"1I~o.I...,,,.nd..lllr.
C ..... h;, , ....
II,

1 M...h .. "
,I

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IS.!

, "po:.' C

.1

Ii....

.,

101

,,' ' ;" ,<l "",

,ope~on""'''
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I." ,",,'ll
.10-<1
.~.

rt

I'

.\110 .... .; ..... 10

r <lillOn.1 ti .. h

80<"..... d... treah I; ... 10 I;, .. ;'-lIy


~td

-c ahenu.li ..... ;'11_ '0 acconlI

n:;

aI

""*' ~aI f,

.lrll J
I<) obt..i ..,
d
t 1,,11 oj, on IIw _

fin
y

y. One ucdkn "",II:od. 10 ....,......


wid .... I..'.nd llorn ~. . . 1M

oloondan<" of hbo .. i ...., ..ut

,. COli: .M<l

'a

..

_
..., _
.
I.

lI .. h"",

WIII .j.maJl

idul..t...! ..... h lim..


I.. mon~':>r 1111<"
Th I ,,,lly an ~Ioo h.. pTl ~~I hy ..:" ~inl .:omm".,...1 r: ~1;
_m.. bu, ......11; n ,oa.... nru ,f. "Iu~ and 11.ov.: .. *.

.,.d

It>:our

COU RT- BOUILLON JELLY

-. -

U~lf

"

I I

...

,,,

35'5

FLAVORING JELLIES

. .,
~

,100""~

.,._"<'f'""""' ....
,,:,,~ Ii.....

.
., '. .....

-.

" ., ,.,
..
~." .. "'- ., ... .. .... ...

....

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,.......... .... .
~

~-

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. . \';""!.u' . . ~ ~
~"'

....

..

to

. . . . . . . . . . . tn

,,. ,.. ,.... 1M It.",.. ,t1


~tl An _ "
... IL ..............
..

t. .....1.
.. _ 'I
ch.,. '" /",,\i..,j
'u, , .. 1__
_ ,,\.;..: ,.
"I.nrc-:&i,v- \\, ..... " 1..,hllln<1 &0< ...
... _h ... (; 11m ,..n, r," .. h~ H....I p . nod _~~ .. an .L..

....

~t.,_1

Il< d....

.,."J .....h
~
...

\.
..

,...

.. an

<,.......t........ .kII.ir._

m., ~

...
.. h...,

.,..;un n

..... &1

II

cooIo...l T......

..n

po

'""'"

,...d """ ....., ~ "",.. .. h~ J>e'"


:II ale......
""
h6M
:11 I..a' _
booaul ullv
reel..

B ,.'t.o.L
be

.ko"01
-.I ..d

ol.t.U. ..
I. bu

~ ~ ~I'-' flo bod


0..1...,,1
sho
..,dI..
U_\Ivbrl<:an...
I..,.dc
lo.~lly.,I md ,
'OIboo ......, ~ ..."I m~'n In.
~r.I"'k I"b :ook,./",nr...lnchWlU
.. b<I.! and toIor D I ,<,.Iy. ~iln u:lll
IU'
n ...,,\..
'n~ tho.

Iy.'

c ,hull'indiVKI
:IIi ... \f," add,,'1
. M. k I... Co III,
_ _ _ ~ :lilulM
:II .koft ......1
...,

,.,("

H1

w ...... I ..

or ,.,

...

lOU

1"1

....

l)1li

ha! an n urn

).'N!

1~a1iJh ;:own"
to

..... RED WINE MEAT JELLY


'two hnI ""I ~..." ~al

:'t. 110 ..

Cao In

pran
~J

.,ti1 and

mot
III'

a.I \
If,

B.

ftII' ;lr. h p..h

f \\ 1.-.

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........ ,"

com ' ned w"h

n ~ kit

,.,-

V 10

at
I

lran."'.. .....

~\UJl1

h,~ _hod

rna,' ..... Ih -~
,' \. II-< n ul' ,~

OW

IC"Ih

_;/I

, ..."., tI,

1"" '.1.

un
\0

~n

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~I
110.1. , Jor Itock.h ",J " , co, ' n
mu~h r~1I
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.... r .....
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,

... ,

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~

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"

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\dd ""1""
..-for
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.bou. 20..

VI

..e _ ......., ... "1o,

u",

jrtl..... <>< 10.

J onl ~ I

he ,....J :t
.iOO "" IIi!" ~, .. J n ......

'0

WIN

0!i0
and red- :e -,;

,""",n""...,..k

UI"

un '

I>

nr by half

.. omb,

.~I"blu.

. . .'

'-

to,,"

we' .... I~in I)r ~ . " 'I.~


,f <~
(;in be- 1,1...1 ,,,.1 liT
od ",lly I'
fi...
....,., pWltd) andlin .. _ Whe .., . r..ww.-.... h
"""_
~
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..ti.....
" ... _b.o.l~h .
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It

...d.....

p,.,l r..'

W I'"

of,.

..J.i,"" .......

____ PORT AND CRACKED-PEPPER JE LLY fOR fOIE GRA S


'"

"'I""

So

,I

asM

" ..'ra F

"'ich 'm ad...

h;. mr<h",l.~ .\ , ,,, ,.p


" lb., ..
,..1 ....1 ph,,,,
..... ,,,11 ., .. ..,11 ... enh.anc.. tI It !y', 1..vor. II l he f. I' II ~ d
!y 11"", ~.,.u ,<) Iw lOp of I
'"'
U1T1ne" lor ... ro ..Id .1 anon
idIv iII'~ recIpe'
~

"
,_.

pepper...b.,

..., .1
.."...

-rl

J uP,.1 0 "'tLIL
E" $
GH '0 .. COllO,.un III [ $ DI '0 '[

..

.,

avyba , ~ poe on

,..

"' ~. I

lor ,..1

Us .

~nd::.

.un....

.1>.

lUll

",11y

....

MJ-h.. (' r "cd P I'pcl .. nd 'Un, ,,>1 :hr ho:'


om ..to,'- 1,).1" _n," ,h.. f" iT'"' , ""
.1"1 10 .1.,,
10 -"00'

. on Il~

'rmF , ~ ",,,, .... I ~ .. ~ p .... toP"""


n.. . .. .:1 r .f.. 0' lh.. p<M1

Tb

d,....

....,

~-

P
'h~""""'''''

WITH SAUTERNES JELLY

",

"-

. .So ...
R-""

,.-

.
.

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<

,."

.....

'O~

""'-. ';0'10. a.nd d" .... f , .... Iob-I~r:


M II ~rn;Kh...... ,..1 tau ."J 11 I AI n

~k~.~"",,.d
::>t..u.
-...:
Ic.,~d
h Ari,.. _

:twyan

u.n.r "

-eCh a we:

.. ",..

lion

.. ,......,,'"
....ur oJ":e ... n_..m....
;01
:h.. ~rpan: .. :>bu.. r,~ ......... he,..y .arp~.
JWm~d~
pI~." ~_h :h,.,.-l. s. .. ,heJOI

... poach he 10
pan u. II. '" 1\ ... ....,.. abo ..

.........

).

h.m
Tun TI
....,.
.1 from !w d"""1 nd I.. r;
to""rv<
,..1
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HOT EMULSIFIED
EGG YOLK SAUCES

Iiot cmulsificd egg saun's arc made by quit-kls


beating egg ,yolks and liquid onr heat to form an airy
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added. The sallce can then b(" flavored with a wide range

ofingrcdicnls and preparations. 1101 cmulsilied egg yolk

saut'es arc among the richest and

and they ,,-an be the

mOst

mOst

diUil.'ult

luxurious
10

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make well. The

tcc.:hniquc 01 t'mulsil~ving egg j'olks


\\'Ith rals and liquids can alsu
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for con1cmporal)'
sau<,:e inno\".:ttions.

S.tUCC bcarnaisl'

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knuwn

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