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- machine screw,
.... -: / nut and washer
9/32" slot . ::;;; "-0
V4' groove i "1
3/'6" deep, centered i V4 x 3/8 X 3'12"
bar
oTAPERING JIG
Hold the taper jig tightly against the table-
saw rip fence as you cut. Before starting
each pass, make certain that your left
hand is well away from the line.
Raise the saw blade \14" above the leg.
Butt the jig to the fence, move the fence
until the saw blade just clears the left
side of the jig, and then make the cut, as
shown in Photo F. To make each of the
three remaining cuts, loosen the hold-
down knobs, rotate the leg one-quarter
tum clockwise (as viewed from the piv-
oting end), reclamp, and cut.
This jig also serves another purpose,
as shown in Photo G. When you need
to cut a single taper, mark its start and
stop points on the end and edge of your
workpiece. Remove the indexing pin
from the end block, and nest the end
of the workpiece in the notch. Align
the marks with the edge of the jig, and
clamp. Place your hold-downs against
the workpiece. Tighten the pivot block
in place, and make the cut.
Tap intotapering
To taper a leg, cut your workpiece to
finished length, and then rip it to the
square dimensions that you want for the
untapered section at the upper end. Draw
a line on all four faces to mark where
the taper will begin. Drill a \4" centering
hole 3/s" deep at the center of the bot-
tom end, and add cut lines to show the
final dimensions of that end, as shown in
Photo E. Draw cut lines on the face con-
necting the leg-bottom marks with the
taper-start marks, as shown in the photo,
both to visualize the final shape, and to
serve as a safety reminder as you push
the jig across the saw.
Mount the leg centering hole on the
indexing pin. Slide the pivot block
until the planned outside face of the leg
aligns with the edge of the jig. Turn the
knob to lock the pivot block in place.
Now, near the upper end of the leg,
align the taper-start cutline with the
edge of the jig. Slide the hold-down
blocks against the leg, and tighten the
nylon nut on each one to set the block's
position. Tighten the top knob on each
hold-down to clamp the leg in place.
S
Assemble the hold-downs as
shown. For the pivot block, fIle
or grind one edge of the washer flat,
as shown on Drawing 2a, and then
assemble the nut, screw, and washer as
shown. Adjustable up or down in the
slot, this screw serves as an indexing
pin. Once set for a particular work-
piece, it guarantees that every cut in the
sequence is an equal distance from the
center of the workpiece.
1" plastic knob
V4' flat washer
Hold-down
_
,I." ", V4" nylon nut
1/2
0/4 x 1'12 X 3" plywood
-------
V4" groove-.......-.-/ : V4 X 3/8 X 3"
3/'6" deep, , guide bar
centered I
V4 x 3"--..... V4" holes 7/
8
" V4"
panhead
machine screw
www.woodmagazine.com
..
7
Dead-on 90
0
crosscut sled
A reliable tablesaw miter gauge
handles a lot of crosscutting tasks,
but not all. It rides in just one slot,
and supports the workpiece on just
one side of the blade, allowing for
slop. This problem disappears, how-
ever, with a well-made crosscut
sled. Making right-angle cutting
easier and safer, our design is both
simple and cheap to build. And it
includes adjustable, reliable stops
for repeatable cuts and dead-on
accuracy.
Buildareal workhorse
1
Select a flat piece of 3/4" ply-
wood, and cut the platform to
the dimensions shown on Drawing
3.
2
Cut two maple pieces for the
fence, and cut a s" groove
in the face of one piece, where
shown on Drawing 3a. Glue the
two blanks together, keeping the
edges flush and the groove on the
interior of the lamination. After the
glue dries, cut a W' groove centered
on the S/s" groove. Then, cut a rabbet
DCROSSCUTIING SLED
along the front of the bottom edge and
a Vz" groove centered along the top
edge.
3
From 314" maple, cut the blade
guard sides and end. Glue and
screw the end to the sides. Now, screw
the blade guard to the fence, where
shown on Drawing 3.
4
Cut the front rail from 3;4" maple.
Use a jigsaw to cut a notch, where
shown, for the blade to pass through.
Attach the front rail and the fence to
the platform with screws.
S
Cut, sand, and finish two top blade
guard supports. Using a fme-
toothed tablesaw blade, cut a piece of
W' clear acrylic to size for the guard
cover. Attach the cover to the sup-
ports, the front rail, and the fence.
6
From 3/4" maple stock, cut two
strips to serve as miter-slot guide
bars. Set your tablesaw rip fence 8lfg"
to the right of the blade, and lower
the blade below the table's surface.
#8 x 3/..' F.H.........
wood screw ""'T
V4' dado 1/4' deep
7/a" from top edge
Blade guard
#8 x 1V2' F.H.
wood screw
T T
'14 x 3'14 x 223/4"
3/4 x 3/4 x 161/4' clear acrylic
supports
5/16 X 3/4 x 18"
miter-slot guide bars
1fa" shank hole,
countersunk
T
#8 x 1/2' F.H. wood screw
3/4 X18x30"
plywood
Top blade guard
T
T
1'\
#8 x 1'12" F.H.
wood screw
(
3"
t
Front rail
Platform
8 Tablesaw Jigs &: Tips 2007
LI
13f4
"i
7/,S" '/8 XV2' slot 1
+
1"
!----+---___+__________' J
Score a line on the acrylic with a knife,
and color it with a permanent marker.
Keeping the right end of the platform
against the rip fence, set the sled assem-
bly on the guides. Press down firmly to
stick the bars to the platform.
Em INDICATOR DETAIL
V2" groove V's" deep
(to fit measuring rule)
L ~ 1
7/
8
"
'/4' groove
5/1s" deep \ 5/8" groove
\ 3/,S" deep
1/a" rabbet ------"""'I I I
1/a" deep ----l W' wI------
Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence as you make a cut. Keep your hands outside
the blade guard, and don't cut through its end.
Two pennies shim the miter-slot guide
bars slightly above the tablesaw surface.
Place a couple of these stacks in each
miter-gauge slot, and set the bars on top.
Em FENCE SECTION VIEW
Buying Guide
Hardware. Stainless steel rules no. 06K20.06; 1W
four-arm plastic knob no. 00M55.30. Call Lee Valley at
800/871-8158, or go to www.leevalley.com.
Hold-down with bolt and knob, no. 145831; self-adhe-
sive rule, no. 08Y42. Call Woodcraft at 8001225-1153,
or go to www.woodcraft.com.
Written by Jim Pollock with Jeff Mertz and
Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
to the top of each guide bar, and attach
the bars to the platform, as shown in
Photos H and I. Remove the assembly
from the saw, and permanently attach
the bars with screws.
7
Cut a piece for the stopblock,
and cut a dado in the back, where
shown. Cut a guide bar, and glue it into
the dado. Drill a shank hole through the
block and bar, where shown. Now, cut
a piece of 1/4" acrylic plastic to size for
the stopblock indicator. See Drawing
3b. Drill, saw, and file smooth the slot,
where shown. Make a cursor line, as
shown in Photo A on page 5.
8
Remove the top blade guard,
sand the jig, and apply three coats
of finish. Reattach the blade guard,
assemble and. install the stopblock,
place the crosscut sled on your table-
saw, and make a cut from the front
edge through the fence. Use a rule
to set the stopblock 4" from the kerf.
Mark the center of the stop block on
its top end, align the 4" line on the
self-adhesive measuring tape with that
mark, and attach the tape in the fence
groove. Use tin snips to cut off the por-
tion of the tape extending beyond the
left end of the fence. Place the indica-
tor on the stopblock, align the cursor
with the tape's 4" line, and attach the
indicator to the block with a screw.
Now, let's go sledding
If a workpiece fits between the fence
and the front rail, you can cut it on your
crosscut sled, as shown in Photo J. Use
the stop block to cut multiple pieces to
the same length, provided that length
falls within the stop block's range.
Remove the stopblock when cutting
pieces that extend beyond that range.
When you install a tablesaw blade of a
different thickness or with a different
tooth set than the one used to calibrate
your stopblock, check the setting with a
rule, and adjust the cursor.
www.woodInagazine.com 9
rip-fence
saddle
An inexpensive, shop-built jigfor
top-notch machining andjoinery
B
uild this auxiliary wood fence and
mating saddle to support stiles and other
workpieces while machining end grain.
Use one hand to push the saddle and work-
piece across the blade, and your other hand to
keep the saddle riding firmly on the auxiliary
fence. Wax the mating pieces if necessary for
easy sliding.
Note: Our auxiliary fence is screwed
securely to our tablesaw rip fence, with the
top edge of the fence sitting 1" above the
top edge of the sawfence. The auxiliary
fence must be 90 to the saw table. Size your
saddle support pieces so the saddle rides
smoothly, without free play, along the top
edge of the auxiliary fence.
% x 8 x 8" plywood
Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine; Tim Cahill
Photograph: Marty Baldwin
% x 2 x 8" stock
Tablesaw rip fence
10
Positioned to center the work-
piece over the dado blade, the jig
is the perfect setup for machining
bridle joints or open mortises and
the mating tenons.
'h x 1 x 8" stock
(vertical support)
Tablesaw Jigs &: Tips 2007
howtodean
&Iubeyour
tablesaw
Do the moving parts of your most
important shop tool offer peak
performance with every push of
the "on" button? If not, perhaps
alittle TLC is in order.
After vacuuming most of the dust, blast compressed air into the saw cabinet to
dislodge the remaining deposits.
I
f your tablesaw creaks and groans
when you crank the elevation and
blade-tilt wheels, it's long overdue
for an inspection and tuneup. Outlined
here is the procedure that will get your
saw moving smoothly again, along with
some important safety issues.
First, clean your machine
Begin by unplugging the saw. Remove
the throat plate, blade guard, and the
blade. Inspect the blade for resin
buildup, and clean it if necessary. Make
sure that the washer and blade stabilizer
(if used) are clean, smooth, and flat.
Removing the drive belt and motor
from the back of the saw is a fast and
easy step on contractor-style models,
and it dramatically improves access to
the saw's interior for cleaning and
lubrication. A shop vacuum with a
crevice attachment will remove most of
the chips, and an old paintbrush will
help loosen stubborn pockets of dust.
Tilt the arbor assembly to dump more
dust, and use a couple of blasts of
compressed air to complete the job.
Make especially certain that you've
removed all dust near the stops that limit
the tilt control so you'll get full travel.
If the worm gears or the rows of teeth
have any residue, scrub them with a
brass brush. For really tough build-up,
you may have to dip the brush in paint
thinner. Keep the solvent away from the
arbor bearings, which are usually sealed
and need no lubrication. Afterward, wipe
www.woodmagazine.com
Apply paste wax to the gearing with a
toothbrush, and then remove as much as
possible. Your goal is to achieve a thin
film with no visible residue.
any remaining residue from the worm
gears in preparation for the next step.
Time for alubejob
After all of the gearing is clean,
lubricate it with a non-silicone automo-
tive paste wax applied with a toothbrush.
Also wax the curved slots in the front
and rear trunnions. Run the tilt and
elevation controls through several full
ranges of motion, and remove all the
wax, leaving only a thin film.
Push a plastic straw tip onto a spray
can of white lithium grease, and
lubricate the pivots of the arbor assembly
(where it swings upward) and the shafts
behind the worm gears. This aerosol,
A plastic straw delivers aerosol white
lithium grease with precision. This lubri-
cant sprays and penetrates like a liquid,
and congeals into grease.
available at auto-parts stores, sprays and
penetrates like a liquid and congeals into
grease. Again, wipe off all the lubricant
you can with a rag.
Inspect the arbor flange, making
certain that it's clean and smooth. Turn
the arbor by hand, and try to wiggle it.
Any noise or sideways play indicates a
problem with the bearings that requires
immediate attention.
Blow any dust out of the fence-locking
mechanism. Give the fence and the
entire surface of the table and the
extension wings a coat of non-silicone
paste wax or a special product like
Boeshield T-9. (Visit boeshield.com,
or call 800/962-1732.)
11
Shoulder
PROUD
PANEL
Pros can decorate shoulder
with profile router bits
Cons bevels are a bit more
difficult to sand
'V.' raised panels
'VB" rabbet
'14" deep
Shoulder
) 1r
BACK-CUT
PANEL
Pros shoulder detail
catches the eye
Cons' bevels are a bit more
difficult to sand
3/B" rabbets
V4" deep
3 POPULAR PANEL STYLES TO CHOOSE FROM
PLAIN-BEVEL
PANEL
Pros contemporary look
easy-to-sand bevels
Cons no panel detail to
catch the eye
Markthe bevels
Looking at the end of the panel blank, lay
out the desired bevel using a sliding bevel
square. Also, if your panel needs a tongue
and rabbet lay them out, at this time.
Preparingthe panels
Before cutting the door panels to size, match
the wood tones and arrange the grain
patterns for best appearance. For example,
center the cathedral (inverse V) pattern on
narrow, single-board panels. When gluing
up wider panels, use pieces cut from the
same board for consistent grain and color.
Next, decide which style of panel you
want, one that's flush with the frame, called
a back-cut panel (see the drawing at right);
or a proud panel (with the panel raised above
the frame). All will give your panels a
custom look. Glue up the stock needed to
make your panel blanks. Then, cut your
panels to finished size.
Note: To minimize wood movement, we
suggest using boards no wider than 5" when
gluing up your panels.
Cut raised panelswithatablesaw
For the woodworker who doesn't have a
router table or the budget for expensive
raised-panel bits, cutting raised panels on
the tablesaw is an effective alternative. This
method does have one drawback: You'll
need to invest time and elbow grease into
finish-sanding the panel bevels.
To solve the challenge of supporting
panels safely while cutting bevels, make the
easy-to-build panel-cutting sled shown
in Drawing 1 and 2 on the opposite page.
R
aised panels have long been viewed
as signs of fine craftsmanship-
perhaps because they appear difficult
to make. But as you'll see here, that need not
be the case. We'll show you a method for
cutting a raised panel using the tablesaw.
Better still, you'll find this method excels at
safety and accuracy.
asafewayto
makeraised
12 Tablesaw Jigs & Tips 2007
Build the basic sled
Combine scrap material with a few hardware items and you'll
have a jig destined for a lifetime of service. To make the sled
follow these simple steps:
1 Cut two pieces of 3/4' MDF to the dimensions in the Materials
List to make the upright (A) and base (8). Scrollsaw or bandsaw
the 1W radii on two corners of (8), cutting outside the line, and
then sanding to it.
2 Using a dado blade, cut two 3/4" dadoes W' deep in the top of
the base, where shown Drawing 1.
3 After adding a sacrificial auxiliary fence to your saw fence, cut
a rabbet :4" wide and W' deep along the bottom edge of the
upright (A) where shown.
4 Next, drill 5116" holes in the upright (A) and at the ends of the
slot locations in the base. Layout the sides of the slots, and
scrollsaw them to shape with a #12 blade.
S Cut two braces (C), as dimensioned in Drawing 2.
6 Drill 5/32" pilot holes, and then glue and screw the sled together
using #8x1W brass screws, where shown. Tip: Use brass
screws anytime a jig's screws are close to the saw blade.
Nowadd the extras
1 Cut the guide strip (D) to fit your miter-gauge slot in depth
and width. Trim the piece to 28" long, and drill countersunk
W' holes centered on the strip 3" from each end. Now, attach
the guide strip to the base using the hardware shown.
2 Cut the upright stops (E) to size, and drill the hole and
counterbore hole, wl:lere shown in Drawing 2. Secure the
stops to the ends of upright (A).
3 Cut the clamping bar (F) to size and drill
5
116" holes, where
shown. Layout and shape the clamping bar curve, as shown
in Drawing 1, using a bandsaw. Sand smooth.
4 Next, attach the clamping bar to the sled using the
hardware shown. Tip: If you have trouble finding extra-long
machine screws, cut two pieces of all-thread. Then secure
the four-arm knobs to the screws using 5-minute epoxy.
S Remove the hardware and the clamping bar and guide
strip, and sand all parts to 150-grit. Now apply two coats of
finish, sanding between coats with 180-grit abrasive.
6 Cut a piece of adhesive-backed 120-grit sandpaper, and
apply it to the sled face, as shown in Drawing 1.
7 Reassemble the sled.
f-------28"-----------o-j
3"Z
:
;;Y-<-'::j
V.-20 x 2" F.H. machine screw---"",I
10/8" __
!-':'--"'-"'-....:::..:;:::..:..:.='-''''-=-=--,-----------';'--1" 1V..'
oSLED PARTS VIEW
Materials key: MDF-medium-den-
sity fiberboard, M-maple.
Supplies: #8x1 W', #8x1" brass
flathead wood screws; V,-20x2" (2),
V4-20x4W' (2) flathead machine
screws; V,-20 four-arm knobs
(4); V4' flat washers (8); 1V2xo/a"
compression springs (2); V,-20
knife thread insert (2); 4" adhesive
backed 120-grit sandpaper.
Blades and bits:
Stack dado cutter.
R=1W'
!V16" slot
J
11V2
'
0/4:" dadoes U
14"_ j t
UPANEL-CUTTING SLED EXPLODED VIEW " , 1W bm" k:11 W_'_ , 1
1V4' F.H. wood screw ;-i
___ ) E i %2'
Curve on this edge :0 ... ,"" 1"....... L. pilot hole
%-20 x 41/2' F.H. ''.''
maC-lhinescre;our_arm 'V16" hole .';'''
" I sandpaper U ri ht
/ knob F 29 .......1" "---. P g
.. __ .. #8 x 1" -- """
r --. '''. F.H. wood screw
V4' flat washer '::.: . __ 3"
1" spnng ( ""
V4' flat washer EIj: _.
!Va" counterbore V4' deep with a I
0/16" hole centered inside -""'"0/.
%-20 knife thread insert
0/..' rabbet V4' deep
www.woodmagazine.com 13
DPANEL KERFS DEFINE SHOULDERS
PANEL
FACE
, \
; I
Adjust the blade to match your bevel
Place the panel into the sled with the exterior face out. To adjust the angle and
height of the saw blade, sight down the blade, and align it with the layout
marks, as shown below. Clamp a test piece into the sled and run it through.
Readjust the settings until the angle and bevel thickness are dead-on accurate.
To cut a raised panel with shoulders
(the square lip on the face of the panel),
first adjust the tablesaw's fence 1%" from
the blade. Cut a saw kerf Vg" deep (3/16"
deep if making proud panels) and 1%"
from all four edges and ends of the panel's
face, as shown in Drawing 3. This kerf
will determine the shoulder location.
Set up the sledfor smooth,
accurate cuts
For your sled to function well, it must slide
parallel to the saw blade with its upright at
a right angle to the saw's tabletop. With
either out of alignment, scoring and
burning will occur. The following set-up
procedure assumes that your miter-gauge
slot aligns parallel with your saw blade. If
not, make that adjustment.
Then, with a steel rule, measure the
distance from the saw blade to the sled's
upright. Move the sled side to side as
needed so the distance between the blade
and the sled is the same as the panel's
tongue (and rabbet) thickness. When the
upright is the correct distance from the
blade, and parallel to the blade, tighten
down the knobs in the guide strip. Now,
adjust the blade bevel. See "Adjust the
blade to match your bevel," above.
Let's cut araised panel
Clamp your panel into the sled, exterior
face out, and cut the bevels. Panels can
be cut in four passes through the saw.
First, cut across the end grain to reduce
chip-out. Then cut the bevels on the
panel edges. Move through the blade at a
consistent speed, slowing down only if
the saw strains.
Note:-lf your saw bogs down in the cut,
you may need to use a thin-kerf blade or
make the cut in stages, using succes-
sively deeper passes.
Sand the panel bevels
Remove any saw marks with 100-grit
sandpaper and a hardwood block.
Finish-sand the bevels with 150- and
nO-grit sandpaper. Take care when
sanding not to remove the ridge at the
intersection of the bevels. Stain the
panels before you assemble the door.
A %" round-nose bit creates a distinct panel.
%" round-nose
router bit set to
cut Va" deep
-_.- -- -
,;. %" deep
..
'""\c- _
Add detail to your raised panels
After raising the panel
on your tablesaw, use
a 14" round-nose bit in
your router table to de-
tail the square shoulder
on the face of the panel.
Set the bit 15/8" from the
fence, as shown at right.
Then rout the detail,
starting with the end
grain first, followed by
the edge grain.
14 Tablesaw Jigs &: Tips 2007
best-evershoptips for tablesaws
USE CLAMP-ON EDGE GUIDE FOR STRAIGHT-EDGED RIP CUTS
I tried several methods for ripping rough-edged boards on my
tablesaw with mixed success. Then, while I was using a clamp-on
aluminum edge guide and my circular saw to cut up some ply-
wood, it occurred to me that the answer to my ripping dilemma
was actually right in front of me.
Now, to rip a straight edge on a board, I fust clamp the edge
guide to the workpiece so it overhangs the edge of the board
slightly. With the edge guide lined up firmly against the
tablesaw fence, I get straight-edged rips every time.
By the way, I have a 48"-long Tru-Grip Clamp'n Tool Guide,
available through many woodworking catalog companies. The
guide also comes in 24" and 36" lengths.
-Glenn Sperry, Vista, Calif.
CUT COMPOUND MITERS EASILY WITH THIS TABLESAW JIG
Here's a way to cut compound miter
picture frames without an expensive
compound mitersaw. Start by making an
18x28" base from a piece of Yz" plywood.
Attach parallel miter-gauge guides to the
bottom. Then, push this base through the
saw blade to create a kerf that extends
about 12" across the plywood.
Using this kerf as a centerpoint, screw
the two fence pieces and the two angle
blocks to the base, as shown in the draw-
ing. You can bevel the angle blocks at any
angle you like, but 25 works well for most
picture frames. Now, clamp or hold your
picture-frame moldings against the fence
and cut the compound angle by pushing the
jig and the frame stock through the table-
saw blade.
-David Mattichak, Port Republic, Va.
www.woodmagazine.com
SECTION VIEW
15
...-------------CAULKING GUN MAKES A SURE-SHOOTIN' HOLD-DOWN
4 X14 X18" hardwood channels
45chamfer
Bend tabs
90 after
inserting
. : ~ through slots.
HARDWOOD CHANNEL DETAIL
'Or, so slide block slides freely
CLAMP"DETAIL
Open caulking- - ~ ...-....
gun handle.
Cut off
excess gun
parts.
#8 x 3f4" P.H. ... Hole drilled
wood screw ~ f o r gun shaft
Reattach
Cut slots to Z(./ / pad after
accommodate gun. ~ assembly.
~
~
o Nylon nut
UHMW self-adhesive
on end of pad
1W'-thick )
saw-blade guard
(centered over
blade path)
3f4 X 0/'16 x 19V2"
hardwood miter-
gauge guide strip 1
3f4 x 19V2 x 24" plywood base 1
When designing a panel-cutting jig for my tablesaw, I wanted a way to
clamp a workpiece fIrmly into the jig. I found the solution in the paint
department of a discount store.
I bought an ordinary bar-style caulking gun for less than $3, threaded off
the nylon nut that holds the plunger pad to the rod, and attached the clamp to
a hardwood block as shown in the Clamp detail drawing at right. The block
moves back and forth in a channel on the panel jig, which I built as shown.
To use the clamp, I simply slide it over my workpiece. A few quick
squeezes of the trigger secures the piece for a safe cut.
-Rusty Bentzinger, Leighton, Iowa
MAKE STRONGER DOORS WITH YOUR TABLESAW
-------------
Rail
1 ---- '!4 x 1"-long
tR:==:=11 tenon
r----_ Y
Step
1
f- Cut a %" groove
V2" deep along
inside edge
of frame.
When building frame-and-panel
doors, I make them extra strong
by making the tenons long. Rather
than chisel out the deep mortises,
you can cut them on a tablesaw.
In the stile, center a Y4" -deep
groove for the panel with your
dado blade. Then, raise the
tablesaw cutting depth up to I".
Measure the width of your tenon
and clamp a stopblock to your
tablesaw fence, as shown atfar
right. Then, run the stile groove-
side down over the dado blade to
the stopblock.
-Erv Roberts, Des Moines, Iowa
16 Tablesaw Jigs ok Tips 2007
RIP FENCE GLIDES ALONG
SMOOTHLY ON WHEELS ------.
TO JOINT LONG PIECES OF MATERIAL,
.....------- TUNE IN TO J-CHANNEL
EXTENSION TABLE PULLS EXTENDED DUTY
I already have my router mounted in the extension wing of my tablesaw
to save space. But when I wanted to build a downdraft sanding table, I
figured out a way to get triple duty out of the extension and opening.
First, I cut a second acrylic insert the exact size of the one for my router.
Then, I marked out and drilled a gridwork of 5/16" holes spaced 3/4" apart in
the insert. Next, I built a dust box, as shown at left. Finally, I glued the
box to the bottom of the acrylic insert.
Now when I need to sand a project, I lift out the router, drop in the sand-
ing insert, connect the dust-collection hose, and sand away. My shop stays
cleaner, and I still have room to move around. -Martin Beijer, Castak, Calif.
Aluminum J-channel
(4 x 1W' aluminum angle
also would work)
Saw blade
Saw off
rough edge.
tk' Saw off flange.
1j]
Aluminum
J-channel
I needed to put a straight edge on a long piece of stock, but because
the piece was longer than my jointer's tables, I didn't have much
luck. I headed to the hardware store and bought an 8' length of alu-
minum I-channel (nornlally used with aluminum siding).
I sawed off the flange, as shown below, and attached the
I-channel to my board with cloth-backed double-faced tape.
Keeping the channel against my tablesaw's rip fence, I then cut a
straight edge on the opposite edge of the stock.
With this one 8' piece of I-channel, I've found that I can joint
stock up to 10' long. The tape will keep its tack for many boards
if you wipe the dust from the wood before applying the channel.
-Ron Radecki, Grand Rapids, Mich.
.cR\:' insert hole
--:.. - Dust box is glued
or siliconed to
bottom side of
insert plate.
'/2 x 2" stock
Hole centered . . ..........
in bottom -:::::---.::::- - 1 :Va" plywood
1 ',. ( bottom
Dust collection -s
connector or PVC #6 x 1" F.H. wood screw
tube siliconed
into hole in bottom Dust collection
16" holes spaced approximately :v.' apart
Acrylic insert
plate (same size
as router plate)
Tablesaw
extension
Self-tapping sheet-metal screws
1)
The rip fence on my Powermatic 66 tablesaw didn't
glide as smoothly across the tabletop as I liked, so I
made a $S improvement. I bought a 2" fixed rubber
caster at the hardware store and attached it to the bottom
of the far end of the fence, as shown below. The wheel
rolls on the angle iron attached to the back of the saw. I
put a spacer between the caster and the fence to give me
1/32" clearance above the tabletop. The fence now glides
effortlessly across the table.
-William Marazita, Santa Barbara, Calif.
www.woodmagazine.com 17
..
TRIM PANELS FLUSH WITH A RABBETED
...------------ TABLESAW FENCE
SUPPORT TABLESAW SHELVES WITH
ANGLE-IRON RAILS
GLUE SETSCREWS FOR A TEMPORARY GRIP
Bolt shelves
to angle iron.
Every time you switch from the miter gauge
to the rip fence, you have to walk across
the shop to put one or the other down. Then
there's the problem of where to store the
pushstick and other tablesaw accessories.
Solve this dilemma by building a pair of
shelves below your tablesaw top, using two
pieces of angle iron and some 3/4" plywood
or particleboard. Cut two pieces of Ysxlxl"
angle iron as long as the total length of your
tablesaw top, extensions included. Mount
the angle iron just above the joint where the
legs and the saw enclosure meet, using three
equally spaced 5/16X2" machine bolts. (If the
saw's power switch or handle interferes, bolt
the angle iron to the legs.)
Attach the shelves to the angle iron using
Y4" machine screws, lock washers, and nuts.
Countersink the heads of the screws into the
shelves. A strip of lx2 glued and screwed to
the outside end of each shelf will keep acces-
sories from falling off.
-Marvin Ring, Corvallis, Ore.
QUICK SAWING TIPS
Keep the good side of stock up when cutting on
atablesaw, bandsaw, scrollsaw, radial-arm saw, or
compound mitersaw. With aportable circular saw or
handheld jigsaw, the good side should face down.
Place afeather board in front of the blade on a
tablesaw. If it's next to the blade, it can pinch the stock
being sawn against the blade, causing kickback.
flush. If you don't have a flush-trim
router bit, is hand-planing the only
solution? If you own a tablesaw,
you're just an auxiliary fence away
from a super-quick solution. Make
a Ix6" wooden auxiliary fence for
your tablesaw and cut a rabbet in
its face exactly as wide as the kerf
of your blade. Attach the auxiliary
fence to your regular rip fence and
position it so that the outside edge
of the blade is flush with the
outside face of the auxiliary fence,
as shown in the drawings at left and
below. Then, run your workpiece
along the fence to trim off the
excess edging. We used a 50-tooth,
carbide-tipped blade for clean,
splinter-free results.
-from the WOOD magazine shop
Rip
.:fence
Wooden
auxiliary
fence
My tablesaw's throat insert
used to cause me a lot of grief.
Vibration loosened the setscrews
over time, and the insert dropped
down below the tabletop. When
I tried to rip a board, the bottom
edge of the forward end would
catch, resulting in an end grain
tear-out.
To keep the setscrews firmly in
place, I put a dab of Loctjte 242
on the threads. The thread-locker
prevents the setscrews from
moving, but a hearty twist with
an allen wrench break& the bond.
-R.J. Lemerise, Utic'li, Mich.
You've glued some solid-wood
edging on a set of plywood panels,
and now it's time to trim the edging
18 Tablesaw Jigs &: Tips 2007
CLEAN-CUT LIDS FOR CLOSED BOXES CUT SLATS FOR TOY TRUCKS EASILY
QUICK TIP
Set the dado blade height
to the same thickness as
the slat piece; then rip
spaces to form slats.
Don't have acontainer to put your circular-saw blades in for
cleaning? Aplastic oil-change pan from an auto-parts store
works just great.
Space and glue stakes
across slat piece with ~ - - - . E : : : ' ~ ~ ~
bottoms sticking out.
Slat piece
I build lots of toy cars and trucks, so I'm always
looking for simpler and faster building techniques.
One particularly time-consuming job was ripping
and gluing up thin strips for making slatted, stake-
side panels for. truck beds. My solution: Glue the
stakes to a solid piece of stock the size of the
finished slats, as shown below. When the glue
dries, cut away the material between the slats with
a dado set and tablesaw. This wastes a little more
stock, but the time saved makes it worthwhile.
-Richard Rosencrans, Cody, Wyo.
SAFETY TONGUE HELPS INSERT STAY PUT
I read on your WOODOnline (woodmagazine.com) forum groups
about homemade zero-clearance tablesaw inserts sent flying when
caught by the blade. To prevent this, attach q safety tongue to the
outfeed end of the insert, as shown below. Tip the insert so the
tongue catches under the saw table and drop the insert in place.
-Dave Goldthorp, Dunrobin, Onto
One big problem with cutting the lid from a closed box on a
tablesaw is that the box and lid become more unstable as subsequent
cuts are made. The bigger the box, the more potential for binding
and gouging and the more dangerous the operation becomes for
the woodworker.
For several years I've made boxes as small as 4" square and 2"
deep for jewelry and other pieces and as large as l6x24x48" for
blankets and toys.
For safe, stable lid cuts, I raise the saw blade to the correct cut-
ting height (slightly greater than the stock thickness) and cut the two
long sides first. Next, I apply a small amount of hotmelt glue to each
kerf, where shown in the inset illustration below. I then make the
end cuts and separate the box and lid
by cutting the glue with a sharp utility
knife. I also use the knife to peel or
shave away the glue before sanding to
remove the saw marks.
-John Ash, Lockport, III.
www.woodmagazine.com 19
...
USE PLAYING CARDS TO MICRO-ADJUST YOUR TABLESAW FENCE
Insert a playing card
between the fence and
the block for fine
adjustments.
My tablesaw fence doesn't have a micro-
adjustment knob, but that doesn't stop me
from making finely tuned cuts. To make
a cut on the money, I make a test cut in
scrap and check the measurement. Then, I
slide a wooden block against the inboard
or outboard side of the fence-<iepending
on which way I need to adjust the cut-and
clamp the block to the saw table. Next, I
loosen the fence, insert a playing card or two
between the block and the fence, relock the
fence, and make another test cut.
-Ken Kerns,Fairview, N.C.
TRY COFFEE-CAN LIDS AS SAW-BLADE SPACERS
If you stack your tablesaw or circular-saw blades for storage or transport them
to a sharpener, you need spacers between them to prevent the carbide teeth
from chipping each other. But rather than go to the trouble and expense of cut-
ting out hardboard or plywood spacers, just save a few of the plastic lids that
come on three-pound coffee cans. Bore a hole the size of your saw's arbor in
the center of these, and place them between your blades.
-Ken Kraft, Boise, Idaho
Coffee-can lid with
hole drilled
in center
CUSTOM PUSHBLOCK SAFER FOR SMALL PIECES
FRONT VIEW
I needed to chamfer the edges of a small block of wood to make a decorative
post cap. But when I tried to use my regular pushstick, the tablesaw blade
twisted the block away from the
fence, gouging the workpiece
beyond repair.
To keep the workpiece under
control, I built a custom pushblock
from 2x4 scrap, as shown at left.
By cutting a notch in the scrap to
fit the workpiece, the pushblock
holds the work firmly when making
the cut and prevents the saw blade
from twisting and pulling the stock
away from the fence.
-Richard Rosencrans, Cody, Wyo.
Workpiece
Cut notch depth V32"
less than the thickness
of the workpiece.
Saw blade tilted to 45
3:"']'
Cut notch to fit workpiece.
"
20 Tablesaw Jigs'" Tips 2007
EXTEND THE SCOPE OF YOUR TABLESAW
When making repetitive tablesaw
crosscuts, you typically clamp a
stop on a miter-gauge auxiliary
fence and cut with confidence. But
what do you do when the length of
the cut extends beyond the face of
the miter gauge? To solve the prob-
lem, I made a telescoping stop for
my saw, as shown at right.
In a length of W' steel pipe,
I drilled a pair of holes for the
knurled knobs, where indicated in
the drawing at right top, tapped
them, and threaded a knob into
each. Then, in one end of a 1/2"
steel rod about the same length as
the pipe, I drilled a W' hole and
attached a bolt as shown at right.
I drilled and tapped holes in the
bottom of my tablesaw top and
used metal strapping to secure the
pipe to the table. Now, with the
rod inserted in the pipe, I can slide
the stop out to whatever length I need
and tighten it in place with the knobs.
When not in use, the stop slides all
the way into the
steel pipe.
-David Mattichak, Port Republic, Va.
1/2' steel pipe fastened to
bottom of tablesaw table
STOP DETAIL qjJ
Cut off head.---"""
, Vi' steel pipe
\
W' steel rod
Knurled knob (threaded into pipe)
I like to make my own cove moldings on
my tablesaw, but I found myself spending
a lot of time in trial and error setting up
the auxiliary fence for the cut. To make
it easier to find the exact location for
the diagonal fence, I cut a piece 0;- ;,ard-
board the same diameter as my tablesaw
blade and mount it on the arbor. Then, I
draw the exact radius of the cove on the
Cove mar1<ed on end of stock
Cut hardboard
template to the same
diameter as saw blade.
www.woodmagazine.com
HERE'S A NEW ANGLE ON CUTTING COVE MOLDINGS
end of the stock and raise the hardboard
template "blade" to the full depth of the
cove. By sighting around the template
and aligning the stock so the marked
cove matches the template, I can quickly
position and clamp the fence.
-Michael Burton, Ogden, Utah
Saw blade
21
AWARDED MOST INNOVATIVE
ARBOR LOCK QUICK RELEASE
RIVING KNIFE &
GUARD SYSTEM
INTEGRATED
RETRACTABLE
CASTOR SYSTEM
History has a tendency of repeating itself and it has with the revolutionizing
POWERMATIC PM2000 10" Tablesaw. Following its time-honored Model 66, the
PM2000 has it all and then some. Equipped with the industry's first arbor lock,
an integrated caster system, a true quick release riving knife and blade guard
system, this machine is a powerhouse. Backed with the industry's most durable
5-year warranty, this line comes in 12 variations. Find the model most suitable
to your needs at a local POWERMATIC dealer or at www.powermatic.com/wood