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    The Rough Guide to Great Britain (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Great Britain (Travel Guide eBook)
    The Rough Guide to Great Britain (Travel Guide eBook)
    Ebook2,370 pages25 hours

    The Rough Guide to Great Britain (Travel Guide eBook)

    By Rough Guides

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    About this ebook

    Discover Rough Guides' home patch with the most incisive and entertaining guidebook on the market. Whether you plan to tuck into a balti in Birmingham, get your thrills at Blackpool Pleasure Beach or tackle Scotland's majestic North Coast 500, The Rough Guide to Great Britain will show you the ideal places to sleep, eat, drink, shop and visit along the way.



    - Independent, trusted reviews written with Rough Guides' trademark blend of humour, honesty and insight, to help you get the most out of your visit, with options to suit every budget.

    - Full-colour maps throughout - navigate the medieval lanes of York or Bath's Georgian streets without needing to get online.

    - Stunning images - a rich collection of inspiring colour photography.

    -Things not to miss - Rough Guides' rundown of Britain's best sights and experiences.

    - Itineraries - carefully planned routes to help you organize your trip.

    - Detailed regional coverage- whether off the beaten track or in more mainstream tourist destinations, this travel guide has in-depth practical advice for every step of the way.



    Areas covered include: London and the southeast; the Cotswolds; Bath, Bristol and the southwest; East Anglia; the Midlands and the Peak District; Leeds, Manchester and the northwest; Yorkshire; Newcastle and the northeast; Cardiff and South Wales; Snowdonia; Edinburgh and the Lothians; Glasgow and the Clyde; the Scottish Highlands and Islands. Attractions include: Hampton Court Palace; Oxford's colleges; the Eden Project; Manchester's Northern Quarter; Hadrian's Wall; the Lake District; Portmeirion; Welsh castles; Edinburgh Festival and the West Highland Railway.



    - Basics - essential pre-departure practical information including getting there, local transport, accommodation, food and drink, the media, festivals and events, sports and outdoor activities.

    - Background information - a Contexts chapter devoted to history and film, plus recommended books.



    Make the Most of Your Time on Earth with The Rough Guide to Great Britain.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateAug 4, 2018
    ISBN9781789194920
    The Rough Guide to Great Britain (Travel Guide eBook)
    Author

    Rough Guides

    Rough Guides are written by expert authors who are passionate about both writing and travel. They have detailed knowledge of the areas they write about--having either traveled extensively or lived there--and their expertise shines through on every page. It's priceless information, delivered with wit and insight, providing the down-to-earth, honest read that is the hallmark of Rough Guides.

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      Introduction to

      Great Britain

      If you didn’t know that the Great in Great Britain was strictly a geographical term (it refers to the largest island – containing England, Scotland and Wales – of the British Isles), you’d be tempted to give Britain the accolade anyway. It’s hard to think of another country that’s given so much to the world – railways to royalty, shipbuilding to Shakespeare, football to fish and chips – and there are few holiday destinations suffused with as much history, based on more than five thousand years of settlement and a proud record of stability, democracy and invention. From dynamic London to misty Scottish mountains, fishing villages to futuristic cityscapes – and whether you’re looking for urban adventures, pagan festivals, cutting-edge galleries, world-class museums, wilderness hikes or majestic buildings – Britain is undoubtedly great.

      Of course, the kind of time you have here depends on which Britain you visit – which sounds odd until you take on board that we’re talking about three different countries and three distinct national identities, all wrapped up in a relatively modest-sized United Kingdom on the western edge of Europe. England, Scotland and Wales have had centuries to get used to each other, but even so there are sharp reminders of past conflicts and present politics at every turn – from mighty border castles to proud, devolved parliaments – while you’ll find separate national cultural collections in the three very different capital cities of London, Cardiff and Edinburgh. You’re not walking into any kind of vicious separatist clamour, but it’s as well to remember that England (by far the dominant country) is not the same thing as Britain – even if the English sometimes act that way.

      As well as the national variations that spice up any visit, there’s also huge regional diversity in Britain – from the myriad accents and dialects that puzzle foreigners to the dramatically diverse landscapes. Bucolic Britain is still easy to find, be it in gentle rolling farmland or alpine peaks and lakes, and tradition and heritage still underpins much that is unique about the great British countryside. But increasingly it’s Britain’s urban culture – innovative arts and music, challenging architecture, trend-setting nightlife – that the tourist authorities choose to promote.

      In recent years Britain has showcased its international hosting skills with gusto, not least with the staging of the London 2012 Olympics and Glasgow 2014 Commonwealth Games, each of which went above and beyond the nation’s ever-modest expectations – in terms of both execution and medal count – and placed the British Isles on the podium of global attention once again.

      Britain has also been at the heart of some seismic political happenings in recent times: in 2014 the Scottish public voted in an independence referendum, opting to remain part of the union but only by an unexpectedly fine margin; then, in 2016, a UK-wide referendum on European Union membership resulted in a majority vote to leave (again, by the slimmest of margins). Despite these uncertain times, and with the full ramifications of Brexit yet to be played out, there’s no doubt that Blighty is still a hugely rewarding place to visit.

      Where to go

      There’s enough to see and do in Britain to swallow up months of travel. The rundown of country-by-country highlights over the following pages will help you plan an itinerary – or remind you of how much you’ve yet to see.

      Travel Pix Collection/AWL Images

      WORCESTER AND BIRMINGHAM CANAL, BIRMINGHAM

      FACT FILE

      • Britain is a constitutional monarchy, whose head of state is Queen Elizabeth II. Parliament is composed of the directly elected House of Commons and the unelected House of Lords. The Prime Minister is the head of the largest political party represented in the House of Commons.

      • The lowest point is in the Fens of eastern England, at 13ft below sea level; the highest mountain is Ben Nevis, in Scotland, at 4406ft. The longest river is the Severn (220 miles), which flows through England and Wales.

      • The population of Britain is about 63 million: 55 million in England, 5 million in Scotland and 3 million in Wales. The biggest city is London, with over 8 million inhabitants.

      • The distance between the two extreme points of the British mainland – a journey beloved of charity fundraisers – is the 874 miles, from Land’s End (Cornwall, England) to John O’Groats (in the Scottish Highlands).

      • You can always plan a day out at the seaside – nowhere in Britain is more than 75 miles from the coast.

      • Cary Grant, Stan Laurel, Robert Pattinson, Christian Bale and Guy Pearce? They’re all Brits – oh, and Gregory House, MD (Hugh Laurie) too. But London-girl Bridget Jones (Renée Zellweger) and Mary Poppins’ Cockney chimney sweep Bert (Dick van Dyke)? Definitely not.

      England

      London is emphatically the place to start. Nowhere in the country can match the scope and innovation of the capital. It’s a colossal, dynamic city that is perhaps not as immediately pretty as some of its European counterparts, but does have Britain’s – arguably Europe’s – best spread of nightlife, cultural events, museums, pubs, galleries and restaurants.

      The other large English cities – Birmingham, Newcastle, Leeds, Manchester and Liverpool – each have their strengths and admirers. Among much else, Birmingham has a resurgent arts scene, Leeds is the north’s prime shopping city, and Newcastle’s nightlife is legendary. Manchester can match the capital for glamour in terms of bars, clubbing and indie shopping, and also boasts two of the world’s best-known football teams, while its near-neighbour Liverpool is successfully reinventing itself as a top cultural destination.

      History runs deepest in England’s oldest urban settlements. The glorious cathedral cities, like Lincoln, York, Salisbury, Durham and Winchester, form a beautiful national backbone of preserved churches, houses and buildings, while you’re never more than a few miles from a spectacular castle, a majestic country house, or a ruined monastery. There are world-famous, UNESCO-recognized sites galore, from Blenheim Palace to Canterbury Cathedral, but all English towns can rustle up an example of bygone glory, whether medieval chapel, Georgian mansion or Victorian mill. Meanwhile, reminders of more ancient times are ubiquitous – and reveal quite how central England has been to thousands of years of European development. In the southwest there are remnants of an indigenous Celtic culture that was all but eradicated elsewhere by the Romans, who in turn left their mark from Hadrian’s Wall in the north to Colchester in the south. Even more dramatic are the surviving traces of the very earliest prehistoric settlers – most famously the megalithic circles of Stonehenge and Avebury.

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      MICHELDEVER FOREST, WINCHESTER

      For many visitors, it’s not the towns or monuments that are most beguiling, but the long-established villages of England, hundreds of which amount to nothing more than a pub, a shop, a gaggle of cottages and a farmhouse or two. Traditional rural life may well be on the wane – though that’s been said of England since the Industrial Revolution, over two hundred years ago – but in places like Devon, Cornwall, the Cotswolds, Cumbria and Yorkshire there are still villages, traditions and festivals that seem to spring straight from a Constable canvas or a Wordsworth poem. Indeed, the English countryside has been an extraordinarily fecund source of inspiration for writers and artists, and the English themselves have gone to great lengths to protect their natural heritage. Exmoor, Dartmoor, the North York Moors, the Lake District and the Peak District are the most dramatic of the country’s ten national parks, each offering a mix of picturesque villages, wild landscapes and wonderful walks.

      Scotland

      The Scottish capital, Edinburgh, is – whisper it to the English – a far more handsome city than London, famous for its magnificent setting, majestic castle and ancient royal quarter of Holyrood, not to mention an acclaimed international arts festival and some excellent museums. A short journey west is the larger city of Glasgow, a sprawling postindustrial metropolis on the banks of the River Clyde that’s an upbeat destination with great bars, clubs and restaurants. Its museums and galleries are some of the best in Britain, while the city’s impressive architecture reflects the wealth of its eighteenth- and nineteenth-century heyday.

      Shutterstock

      FAIRY POOLS, ISLE OF SKYE

      Scotland’s other towns and cities are only fitfully enticing, though central destinations like Stirling, Perth and Dundee, and Aberdeen in the northeast, make a valiant tilt at tourists, and, in the university town of St Andrew’s (Prince William and Kate Middleton’s alma mater) Scotland has a college town to rank with Oxford and Cambridge. However, what usually resonates most with visitors is Scotland’s great outdoors, whether it’s the well-walked hills of the Trossachs in central Scotland – home of Loch Lomond – or the Highlands, whose mountains, sea cliffs, shadowy glens and deep lochs cover the entire northern two-thirds of the country. In Highland Scotland in particular, famous destinations trip off the tongue – Loch Ness, Culloden, Cape Wrath and John O’Groats – while Ben Nevis has Britain’s highest mountain.

      Some of the most fascinating journeys are to be had on the Scottish islands, the most accessible of which extend in a long rocky chain off the Atlantic coast. Whether it’s mooching around Mull, investigating the early Christian heritage of Iona, whisky-tasting on Islay, or touring the Isle of Arran – the most visited of the Hebrides – there are unique experiences on every inch of the Inner Hebridean archipelago. The outer Western Isles, meanwhile – from Lewis and Harris in the north to Barra in the south –­­ feature some of Britain’s most dramatic scenery, from towering sea cliffs to sweeping sandy beaches.

      At Britain’s northern extreme lie the sea- and wind-buffeted Orkney and Shetland islands, whose rich Norse heritage makes them distinct in dialect and culture from mainland Scotland, while their wild scenery offers some of Britain’s finest birdwatching and some stunning Stone Age archeological remains.

      THE CALL OF THE WILD

      Despite the crowded motorways and urban sprawl, Britain can still be an astonishingly wild place. Natural habitats are zealously guarded in fifteen national parks, from the far southwest to the distant north – a jaw-dropping number of protected areas for a nation of Britain’s size.

      Even in the most popular parks – the almost Alpine Lake District, say, or the rugged Peak District – it’s never a problem to escape the day-tripper crowds, while true wilderness awaits in the Cairngorms of Scotland or Snowdonia in Wales.

      Outside the parks, too, every corner of Britain has its own wild charm – whether it’s tracking Northumberland’s wild cattle, seal-spotting at Blakeney Point, dolphin-watching on the Moray Firth or hiking across windswept Lundy Island to see its famous puffins.

      Getty Images

      Wales

      It’s Cardiff, of course, the vibrant capital, that boasts most of Wales’s major institutions – the National Assembly, Principality Stadium, Millennium Centre, National Museum – and is the best place to get the feel of an increasingly confident country. The second city, Swansea, is grittier by far, a handy base for the sandy bays, high cliffs and pretty villages of the wonderful Gower peninsula. Meanwhile, in the postindustrial Valleys – once a byword for coal mining – a superb sequence of heritage parks, memorials and museums illuminates the period when South Wales produced a third of the world’s coal.

      Castles are everywhere in Wales, from the little stone keeps of the early Welsh princes to Edward I’s ring of doughty fortresses, including Beaumaris, Conwy and Harlech. Religion played its part too – the cathedral at St Davids was founded as early as the sixth century AD, and the quiet charms of the later, medieval monastic houses, like ruined Tintern Abbey, are richly rewarding. Much older relics also loom large – stone circles offer a link to the pre-Roman era when the priestly order of Druids ruled over early Celtic peoples.

      If England glories in its villages, perhaps it’s the small towns of Wales that appeal most – New Age Machynlleth and lively Llangollen, the foodie centre of Abergavenny and festival-fuelled Llanwrtyd Wells. You could concoct a delightful tour that goes from one attractive, idiosyncractic town to another, but even so, you wouldn’t want to miss Wales’s other great glory – the wild countryside. The Cambrian mountains form the country’s backbone, between the soaring peaks of Snowdonia National Park and the angular ridges of the Brecon Beacons. These are the two best places for a walking holiday – though you can get up Snowdon, Wales’s highest mountain, by railway if you prefer. Mountainous Wales also offers world-class mountain biking – Coed-y-Brenin in Mid-Wales is the name all bikers know. As for the Welsh seaside, don’t miss the magnificent clifftops of the rippling Pembrokeshire coast or the sandy beaches of the western Cambrian shore. Most of the coast remains unspoiled, and even where the long sweeps of sand have been developed they are often backed by enjoyable, traditional seaside resorts, such as Llandudno in the north, Aberystwyth in the west or Tenby in the south.

      BRITAIN ON A PLATE

      You might think of roast beef or fish and chips – but, only half-jokingly, chicken tikka masala is by now well accepted as a national dish, a reflection of the extent to which Britain’s postwar immigrant communities have contributed to the country’s dining scene. Even the smallest town will have an Indian restaurant (more properly, Bangladeshi or Pakistani), with Chinese (largely Cantonese) and Thai restaurants common too – not to mention countless Italian trattorias and pizza places and Spanish tapas bars. For the most authentic food, there are a few ethnic enclaves you need to know about – Chinatown in London and Manchester’s curry mile in Rusholme are probaby the best-known, but there are all kinds of treats in store in the lesser-touristed parts of the country. Pakistani grills, Turkish meze or Polish pierogi in London’s unheralded suburbs, a Kashmiri balti in Birmingham or Bradford, or South Indian snacks in Leicester – all are as British as can be.

      Lydia Evans/Rough Guides

      WESTON-SUPER-MARE, SOMERSET

      < Back to Introduction

      When to go

      Considering the temperate nature of the British climate, it’s amazing how much mileage the locals get out of the subject: a two-day cold snap is discussed as if it were the onset of a new Ice Age, and a few days around 25°C start rumours of a drought. The fact is that summers rarely get very hot and the winters don’t get very cold, except in the north of Scotland and the highest points of the English, Welsh and Scottish uplands. Rainfall is fairly even, though again mountainous areas get higher quantities throughout the year (the west coast of Scotland is especially damp, and Llanberis, at the foot of Snowdon, gets more than twice as much rainfall as Caernarfon, seven miles away).

      In general, the south is warmer and sunnier than the north, but the bottom line is that it’s impossible to say with any degree of certainty what the weather will be like when you visit. May might be wet and grey one year and gloriously sunny the next; November stands an equal chance of being crisp and clear or foggy and grim. If you’re planning to lie on a beach, or camp in the dry, you’ll want to visit between June and September – though don’t blame us if it pours down all August, as it might well do. Otherwise, if you’re balancing the clemency of the weather against the density of the crowds, the best months to explore are April, May, September and October.

      AVERAGE DAILY MAXIMUM TEMPERATURES

      < Back to Introduction

      Author picks

      Our indefatigable authors are always on the lookout for the best in Britain – start here for some truly wonderful British travel experiences…

      Glorious gardens No one tends their gardens like the British, whether it’s the Lost Gardens of Heligan in Cornwall, the intriguing poison garden at Alnwick in Northumberland, or the recently discovered historic walled gardens at Aberglasney.

      Remote beaches Head to the extremities: to Par Beach, Isles of Scilly, the lonely beaches of North Uist or Barafundle Bay, Pembrokeshire.

      Wacky festivals The Welsh capital of wackiness, Llanwrtyd Wells, combines festive fun and British idiosyncrasy, as does Hastings’ Jack in the Green shindig.

      Best views We simply can’t choose – London from the Shard, dramatic Hartland Point in Devon, the stunning Scottish coast from Wester Ross or the views from the summit of Snowdon.

      Incredible industry From Ironbridge to Manchester, Blaenavon to the Clyde, Britain invented the stuff the world wanted.

      Modern masterpieces Visit one of the superb Tate galleries in London, St Ives and Liverpool, or rub shoulders with Lichtenstein and Warhol in the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art in Edinburgh.

      Classic journeys The Settle to Carlisle Railway and the West Highland Railway take some beating; walkers, meanwhile, should make for the magnificent Wales Coast Path, a whopping 870 miles (1400km) long.

      Proper pubs You can’t beat an evening by the fire in a crooked-ceilinged British pub. The Felin Fach in Brecon, Bitter End in Cockermouth and Old Forge in Knoydart are a few of our favourite spots for a tipple.

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      BARAFUNDLE BAY, PEMBROKESHIRE

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      OLD FORGE PUB, KNOYDART

      < Back to Introduction

      30

      things not to miss

      It’s not possible to see everything that Britain has to offer in one trip – and we don’t suggest you try. What follows, in no particular order, is a selective taste of the highlights of England, Wales and Scotland, including stunning scenery, awe-inspiring architecture, thrilling activities and incomparable urban experiences. All highlights are colour-coded by chapter and have a page reference to take you straight to the Guide, where you can find out more.

      Shutterstock

      1 THE GOWER PENINSULA

      A stunning stretch, fringed by glorious bays and dramatic cliffs, and dotted with prehistoric remains and castle ruins.

      Mark Thomas/Rough Guides

      2 HAMPTON COURT PALACE

      With its yew-hedge maze and restored State Apartments, Henry VIII’s extravagant Thames-side palace is the most revered of England’s royal abodes.

      Shutterstock

      3 STONEHENGE

      An ancient, still unexplained, ring of monoliths, Stonehenge attracts sun-worshippers in their thousands over the summer solstice.

      iStock

      4 THE LAKE DISTRICT

      England’s largest national park is also one of its favourites, with sixteen lakes, scores of mountains and strong literary connections.

      iStock

      5 WEST HIGHLAND RAILWAY

      Take one of the great railway journeys of the world, the setting of the Hogwarts Express route in the Harry Potter movies.

      Getty Images

      6 WHALE- AND DOLPHIN-WATCHING

      Boat trips in the Moray Firth get you a great view of these beautiful marine creatures.

      Diana Jarvis/Rough Guides

      7 SOUTHWOLD

      Fine Georgian buildings, a long sandy beach and open heathland await in this charming East Anglian seaside town.

      Getty Images

      8 WHITBY

      Irresistible seaside town with a picturesque port, atmospheric ruined abbey, and dramatic Count Dracula connections.

      Alamy

      9 OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE COLLEGES

      Two of the world’s oldest and most esteemed academic institutions, whose colleges boast all the dreaming spires and perfectly tended lawns you could ask for.

      Alamy

      10 THE BRITISH MUSEUM

      In parts controversial, and generally not British, the collections of the BM are still the greatest in the world.

      Getty Images

      11 EDINBURGH FESTIVAL

      One of the world’s great arts festivals – in fact, several festivals – transforms the handsome old city each year into a swirling cultural maelstrom.

      iStock

      12 SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE THEATRE, LONDON

      It’s a genuine thrill to watch Shakespeare performed in this reconstruction of the famous Elizabethan theatre.

      Getty Images

      13 RENNIE MACKINTOSH ARCHITECTURE, GLASGOW

      The visionary architect’s remarkable legacy is manifest in masterpieces such as The Lighthouse and the Scotland Street School.

      Tim Draper/Rough Guides

      14 EDEN PROJECT, CORNWALL

      Spectacular and ungimmicky display of the planet’s plant life, housed in vast geometric biomes.

      Alan Copson/AWL Images

      15 WALKING IN THE PEAK DISTRICT

      From inhospitable, windswept plains to deep-forested dales, the Peaks offer some of Britain’s best walking trails.

      Alamy

      16 IONA, ARGYLL

      The home of Celtic Christian spirituality, and an island of pilgrimage since antiquity.

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      17 THERMAE BATH SPA

      Heated by Bath’s naturally hot, mineral-rich springs, Thermae Bath Spa’s rooftop pool is a lovely spot for a dip.

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      18 SURFING IN NORTH DEVON

      The beaches along the north coast of Devon offer some truly great breaks.

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      19 MANCHESTER’S NORTHERN QUARTER

      Manchester’s bohemian Northern Quarter is a hive of music venues, cutting-edge street art and lively bars.

      iStock

      20 HADRIAN’S WALL PATH, NORTHUMBERLAND

      You can walk or cycle the length of this atmospheric Roman wall, once the frontier against Britain’s northern tribes.

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      21 CURRY IN BRADFORD

      Bradford’s famed curry houses offer everything from cheap-and-cheerful baltis to slick contemporary dining.

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      22 LIVE MUSIC IN LONDON

      Whether it’s a sweat-soaked gig at the magnificent Roundhouse or a night at the Proms, London’s music scene has few equals anywhere in the world.

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      23 SHOPPING IN THE LANES, BRIGHTON

      A warren of pedestrianized thoroughfares, Brighton’s Lanes are lined with antiques shops, designer outlets and intimate pubs.

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      24 HAY-ON-WYE LITERARY FESTIVAL

      The prestigious literary festival at this bibliophile border town brings in all the bookish great and good.

      Shutterstock

      25 BLAENAVON

      Head down a mine, if you dare, in this fascinating Welsh ironworks town.

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      26 EDWARD I’S IRON RING

      Edward’s fearsome Iron Ring of fortresses in North Wales includes Conwy, Caernarfon, Harlech and Beaumaris.

      Tim Draper/Rough Guides

      27 SEAFOOD IN CORNWALL

      Feast on the fresh catch in Padstow, where chef Rick Stein rules the roost.

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      28 DURHAM CATHEDRAL

      England’s greatest Norman building perches on a peninsula overlooking Durham’s lovely old town.

      Helena Smith/Rough Guides

      29 WHISKY IN SCOTLAND

      Sip a wee dram or two along Speyside’s Malt Whisky Trail, or head for beautiful Islay and one of the island’s eight distilleries.

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      30 PORTMEIRION

      Decidedly un-Welsh architecture makes this odd Italianate village a unique attraction; it also hosts the marvellously eclectic Festival no.6 in September.

      < Back to Introduction

      Suzanne Porter/Rough Guides

      Itineraries

      The following itineraries plan routes through Britain in all its huge variety, from the wave-lashed Cornish coast to the misty hills of northern Scotland. Whether you want to survey the remnants of ancient cultures in situ, follow in the footsteps of some of the world’s most famous writers, or feast on the best of British dining, these will point the way.

      A HERITAGE TOUR

      If there’s one thing the Brits do brilliantly, it’s heritage. Take a couple of weeks to travel back through the millennia.

      Hampton Court Palace, London You could spend days exploring this Tudor palace, famously pinched from Cardinal Wolsey by Henry VIII. Head straight for the State Apartments, and try not to lose yourself in the yew-hedge maze.

      Salisbury Plain, Wiltshire Salisbury Plain is littered with the remnants of Stone, Bronze and Iron Age settlements. Stonehenge is the most famous, but you should also make time for nearby Avebury, another stone circle built soon after 2500 BC.

      Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire This sumptuous residence is England’s grandest example of Baroque civic architecture, more a monument than a house.

      Ironbridge Gorge, Shropshire The gorge, home to the world’s first iron bridge (1781), is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with an array of fascinating museums and industrial attractions.

      Conwy Castle, North Wales The most spectacular of Edward I’s Iron Ring of monumental fortresses is in a lovely town on the Conwy Estuary.

      Chatsworth House, Derbyshire Chatsworth House, built in the seventeenth century, is one of Britain’s finest – and most familiar – stately homes, in a lovely Peak District location.

      Holy Island, Northumberland Atmospheric tidal island where the illuminated Lindisfarne Gospels were created.

      Edinburgh Castle Perched imposingly atop an extinct volcanic crag, Edinburgh Castle dominates not only the city but the history of Scotland itself.

      THE LITERARY TRAIL

      You could spend two or three weeks on this tour, which takes in visits to birth- and burial places and dedicated museums, and allows you to explore the landscapes that inspired so many great books.

      Thomas Hardy country, Dorset Dorset will be forever linked with the wildly romantic works of Thomas Hardy. The town of Dorchester (or Casterbridge) is the obvious focus, but the surrounding countryside and the coast to the south feature heavily in his novels too.

      Chawton, Hampshire The modest but elegant home where Jane Austen lived and wrote her most celebrated works is a delight; you can also visit her brother’s house, which now holds a library of women’s writing.

      Stratford-upon-Avon, the Midlands Britain’s most celebrated playwright defines this otherwise unextraordinary market town; don’t miss Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, and be sure to catch an RSC performance.

      Laugharne, South Wales Laugharne is saturated with the spirit of Welsh poet, Dylan Thomas; visit his boathouse and his grave, and have a drink in his favourite boozer, Brown’s Hotel.

      Hay-on-Wye, Mid-Wales Browse antiquarian bookshops and join fellow bibliophiles at the literary festival at this appealing Welsh/English border town.

      Haworth, Yorkshire Get a glimpse of the Brontë sisters’ lives in the pretty Yorkshire village of Haworth, and take a romantic Wuthering Heights-style stroll on the wild surrounding moors.

      The Lake District The Lake District has had a huge influence on writers as diverse as Beatrix Potter, William Wordsworth and John Ruskin – tour their homes, but be sure to explore the stunning natural surroundings that inspired them, too.

      Dumfries and Alloway, Southern Scotland Born in Alloway and laid to rest in Dumfries, Robert Burns is Scotland’s most treasured poet. Both towns have a number of Burns-related sights.

      A FOODIE ODYSSEY

      Long having lurked in the shadow of its more flamboyant European neighbours, British food is no longer the poor relation – this two-week-long trail focuses on offbeat destinations that offer memorable gastronomic experiences.

      Islay’s whisky distilleries, Inner Hebrides Sample a wee dram and get behind the scenes at Islay’s fascinating whisky distilleries.

      Baltis in Brum This delicious sizzling curry, which travelled with Pakistani immigrants to Birmingham, is an unmissable Brummie treat.

      Abergavenny, Mid-Wales Some of Britain’s finest restaurants are to be found in and around the appealing market town of Abergavenny, along with a mouthwatering food festival in mid-September.

      Michelin-starred dining in Bray Splash out on a gastronomic experience at one of the two triple-Michelin-starred restaurants in Bray – Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and Michael Roux Jr’s The Waterside Inn.

      Street food in London From food trucks and pop-up stalls to traditional farmers’ markets, the capital’s streets offer an eclectic introduction to flavours from around the world.

      Whitstable, Kent This charming little Kentish seaside town has been farming oysters since classical times. You can tuck into freshly shucked bivalves year-round – head for Wheelers first of all – or head out of town to The Sportsman, one of the nation’s best gastropubs.

      Seafood feasts in Padstow, Cornwall A stay on the Cornish coast warrants a fresh seafood extravaganza. Head to one of Rick Stein’s restaurants for the very best in fish suppers.

      < Back to Introduction

      LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH/Alamy

      FULLER’S BEER ON TAP, LONDON

      Basics

      Getting there

      Getting around

      Accommodation

      Food and drink

      Festivals and events

      Sports and outdoor activities

      Travel essentials

      Getting there

      London is one of the world’s busiest transport hubs, and there are good deals from around the world on flights into the UK’s capital. However, if you’re planning to tour the southwest or north of England, North Wales or Scotland, consider flying directly to more convenient international airports such as Manchester, Birmingham or Glasgow.

      London’s biggest and best-known airports – Heathrow and Gatwick – take the bulk of transatlantic and long-haul flights into the UK, though there are also several smaller London airports (notably Stansted, Luton and City) and a host of useful regional British airports, many of which are served by low-cost airlines from mainland Europe and Ireland. Principally, in England these are Manchester and Liverpool in the northwest; Birmingham in the West Midlands; Bristol, Newquay and Exeter in the West Country; Leeds-Bradford and Doncaster-Sheffield in Yorkshire; Newcastle and Durham Tees Valley in the northeast; East Midlands; and Bournemouth and Southampton in the south; plus Edinburgh, Glasgow and Aberdeen in Scotland, and Cardiff and Swansea in Wales. The cheapest deals need to be booked well in advance and tend to have little or no flexibility.

      Overland routes from mainland Europe include high-speed trains into London (with onward connections) via the Channel Tunnel – either passenger-only Eurostar services or the drive-on drive-off Eurotunnel train. There’s also a range of useful ferry routes.

      Visas and red tape

      At the time of writing citizens of all European countries – except Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and all the former Soviet republics (other than the Baltic states) – can enter the UK with just a passport, for up to three months (and indefinitely if you’re from the EU, European Economic Area or Switzerland). Americans, Canadians, Australians and New Zealanders can stay for up to six months, providing they have a return ticket and funds to cover their stay. Citizens of most other countries require a visa, obtainable from their British consulate or mission office. Check with the UK Border Agency ukvisas.gov.uk) for up-to-date information about visa applications, extensions and all aspects of residency.

      The 2016 referendum, when the UK voted to leave the European Union, has, in theory, put many visa and entry requirements to the UK in flux. The UK is set to leave the EU by March 2019, at which point new arrangements will need to be in place. In reality, the status quo will most likely continue for short-term visits, when visas are unlikely to be required, but check in advance. Work, study and longer-term visa requirements may change. Until 2019, EU, EEA and Swiss citizens can work in the UK without a permit (other nationals need a permit in order to work legally in the UK).

      www.gov.uk/check-uk-visa.

      Flights from the US and Canada

      Many airlines fly nonstop to London, Manchester and other British airports – flight time is around seven hours from the east coast, ten hours from the west. Flights on European airlines might be cheaper but tend to route through their respective European hubs, adding to the journey time.

      From the USnorwegian.com). Fares from the west coast can start from between US$700 (with Norwegian offering cheap deals from LA) and US$1000.

      From Canada, the best deals involve flying to London out of Toronto or Montreal: flights from Toronto are around Can$750, while from Vancouver they start around Can$1000.

      There are nonstop flights from North America to Glasgow and Edinburgh, though cheaper fares often route through London or Manchester. Return fares start from around US$800/Can$800. There are no direct flights to Wales from outside Europe.

      Flights from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

      Flight time from Australia and New Zealand to Britain is at least 22 hours. Flights via Southeast Asia or the Middle East to London are generally the cheapest. Return fares start at Aus$1200 from Sydney. From Auckland to London return fares start at around NZ$1800.

      There are direct flights from Johannesburg (11hr) in South Africa virginatlantic.com); single flights cost around ZAR8000. BA also run more expensive flights from Cape Town (12hr; around ZAR11,500). Savings are available with indirect flights via a Western European or Middle Eastern hub, when a single fare can start at around ZAR4500.

      Flights from Ireland

      You can get a one-way flight between Ireland ryanair.com). The cheapest options from Belfast easyjet.com), Flybe and Ryanair.

      Ferries

      There are several ferry routes from mainland Europe and Ireland to Britain. The quickest, cheapest services to England are on the traditional cross-Channel routes from the French ports of Calais and Dunkirk to Dover in Kent and Dieppe to Newhaven in East Sussex, plus routes to Portsmouth from Le Havre, Cherbourg and St Malo and from Spain (Santander and Bilbao). From Zeebrugge (Belgium) and Rotterdam (the Netherlands) ferries go to Hull; from the Hook of Holland they go to Harwich, while from Amsterdam they arrive in Newcastle.

      Ferry services from Ireland (Dublin, Rosslare and Belfast) run to England’s northwest (Liverpool and the Isle of Man) and Wales (Holyhead, Fishguard and Pembroke). There are also services from Belfast to Cairnryan in Scotland.

      Fares vary considerably, according to time of year, and time and type of crossing – some high-speed ferry services can cut journey times on the same route by up to half – while accommodation is often obligatory (and welcome) on night crossings from the continent.

      For information directferries.com.

      Trains

      Direct Eurostar trains eurostar.com) run roughly hourly to London St Pancras International from Calais (1hr 10min), Lille (1hr 20min), Brussels (2hr) and Paris (2hr 20min), with connections into those cities from across Europe and direct seasonal services from southern France (Lyon, Avignon and Marseille in summer and over Christmas; Bourg St Maurice, Aime La Plagne and Moutiers in winter), as well as Disneyland Paris, and a direct Amsterdam–London service as of 2018. Fares start from around €50 one-way, though you’ll have to book well in advance. There are discounts on standard fares for travellers under 26 and over 60.

      For drivers, the fastest and most convenient cross-Channel option is the Eurotunnel eurotunnel.com) drive-on-drive-off shuttle train from Calais to Folkestone (around 75 miles southeast of London), which runs 24 hours and takes 35–45 minutes. Booking is advised, especially at weekends or if you want the best prices. The standard fare for a car and all its passengers is from €85 one way (with cheap deals available for short trips); more if booked at short notice. Irish Ferries irishferries.com) offer SailRail return fares of around €100 to London (via Holyhead) from anywhere in the Republic; journey time is around eight hours from Dublin. For the best train information online, check the Man in Seat 61 loco2.com for journey planning.

      Buses

      Eurolines eurolines.co.uk) coordinates international bus services to London (with connections onwards) from dozens of European cities. This is the cheapest way of travelling, but you really do have to ask yourself how long you want to spend cooped up in a bus. Only routes from northern European cities are anything like bearable: the journey from Paris, for example, which takes around six hours to London Victoria Coach Station and costs from €18 one-way.

      Tours and organized holidays

      Package tours of Britain, where all flights, accommodation and ground transport are arranged for you, can be worthwhile if you want to cover several destinations in a limited time, and are a good option for travellers with a particular interest. Some operators specialize in activity holidays.

      AGENTS AND OPERATORS

      STA Travel statravel.co.uk. Worldwide specialists in independent travel; also student IDs, travel insurance, car rental, rail passes and more. Good discounts for students and under-26s.

      Trailfinders trailfinders.com. One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers.

      Travel CUTS travelcuts.com. Canadian youth and student travel firm.

      PACKAGE TOURS

      Abercrombie & Kent abercrombiekent.com. Classy travel specialist, with no-expense-spared escorted and independent holidays, from London highlight trips to ten days visiting the historic abbeys and country homes of Cornwall, the Welsh borders and the Cotswolds.

      Contiki Holidays contiki.com. Lively, reasonably priced, budget-accommodation adventure tours for 18–35s, including London trips and a nine-day England and Scotland tour.

      Martin Randall Travel martinrandall.com. Wide-ranging all-inclusive historical and cultural tours led by experts – for example, seven days walking Hadrian’s Wall, nine days exploring England’s cathedrals or four days soaking up the Arts and Crafts heritage of the Cotswolds, plus one-day lecture tours in London.

      < Back to Basics

      Getting around

      Almost every town and larger villages in Britain can be reached by train or – if you have time and flexibility – bus, but public transport costs are among the highest in Europe and travel can eat up a large part of your budget. Rural destinations are often poorly served, too. It pays to investigate all the special deals and passes, some of which are only available outside the UK and must be bought before you arrive. It may be cheaper and easier to drive, especially if you’re in a group, though traffic can be bad in the cities and on the motorways. If you want to find if a particular route is feasible by public transport, traveline.info is a good first port of call.

      By plane

      Given the time it takes getting to and from many airports (particularly London, if not flying from City), there are few domestic journeys where flying is worthwhile. There are exceptions, however – if you’re travelling from the southwest to the north of England, say (flights from Newquay to Newcastle take 1hr 30min compared to 9hr 30min on the train, though there aren’t flights every day), or considering flights to places like the Isle of Man or the Scottish islands. In addition, airfares can be competitive compared with expensive on-the-spot train tickets for journeys such as London to Newcastle or Edinburgh.

      Domestic airlines loganair.co.uk). Fares on popular routes such as London to Newcastle, with journey times of around an hour, can cost as little as £75 return.

      By train

      Despite grumbles about the rail network and the high cost of travel compared to other European rail systems, getting around Britain by train is still the best, most scenic and – usually – most painless way to travel.

      Most major towns in England have rail links (though coverage of small towns is woeful compared with other European countries), and mainline routes out of London in particular are fast and frequent – the 200-mile trips to York and Exeter, for instance, are covered in two hours. The fastest journeys head north from London on east- and west-coast mainline routes (to Birmingham, Manchester, Leeds and Newcastle, among others), and there are high-speed services to Kent from King’s Cross St Pancras; other journeys, however, can be more complicated, particularly if you’re travelling east–west, which might involve a train change or two.

      Scotland has a more modest rail network, densest in the central belt between Edinburgh and Glasgow, and most skeletal in the Highlands. ScotRail scotrail.co.uk) runs the majority of train services, sometimes on lines rated among the great scenic routes of the world. One appealing option is the overnight Caledonian Sleeper from London to Edinburgh and beyond. Travelling to Wales, most people use the fast, frequent service from London Paddington to Newport, Cardiff and Swansea. Within Wales, services cover the main towns and many rural towns and wayside halts.

      Britain’s trains are run by myriad operators, but all are required to work as a single network with integrated ticketing. The National Rail Enquiries nationalrail.co.uk) is a useful first call for timetable, route and fare information; it lists all the regional operators and offers ticket-buying links from its journey planner. For an exhaustive rundown of train travel in the UK, check the excellent Man in Seat 61 seat61.com).

      Buying tickets

      As a rule, the earlier you book, the less you will pay. Always look out for online offers with booking sites megatrain.com, which is frustrating to use, but can help you find low fares on a few routes. It’s also worth checking the websites of the individual operators, as usually their fares will match those offered by the booking sites. A seat reservation is usually included with the ticket. Just turning up and buying a ticket at the station is always the most expensive way to go (sometimes phenomenally so); it’s always worth asking at the ticket desk about the options, as you may get discounts on groups or couples travelling together. If the ticket office is closed, or the automatic machines aren’t working, you may buy your ticket on board from the inspector. In some cases, though, buying a ticket on the train when you had the opportunity to buy one beforehand could lead to a penalty of £20 – the stations from which penalty fares apply will have large posters advertising that fact.

      Cheapest are advance tickets, which are only available several weeks ahead of time and sell out quickly. They can only be used on the specified train booked – miss it, and you pay a surcharge or have to buy another ticket. Off-peak fares can be bought in advance or on the day of travel, but are only valid for travel at quieter times (generally outside Mon–Fri 5–10am & 3–8pm). Most expensive are the fully flexible anytime tickets.

      Rail passes

      For overseas visitors planning to travel widely by train, a BritRail England pass britrail.net). It gives unlimited travel throughout England, Scotland and Wales (there are also separate regional and Scotland passes) and is valid for varied periods from two to fifteen days in two months (not necessarily consecutive). There are first- and second-class versions, discounted Youth Passes and Senior Passes, and for every adult buying a full-priced ticket one child (ages 5 to 15) receives the same pass for free. Note that BritRail passes have to be bought before you enter the UK.

      If you’ve been resident in a European country other than the UK for at least six months, an InterRail pass interrail.eu), allowing unlimited train travel in England, Wales and Scotland (for three, four, six or eight days within one month), might be worth it – but note that you can’t use the pass for travel in your country of residence. Eurail passes are not valid in the UK, though they do provide discounts on Eurostar trains to England and on some ferry routes.

      nationalrail.co.uk) details the many regional rail passes that can be bought by locals and visitors in Britain itself. Rover and Ranger passes offer unlimited travel in single, multi-day or flexi-day formats – the Ride Cornwall Ranger, for example, which costs £13 for one day of off-peak train travel in that county. The All-Line Rail Rover offers unlimited travel on almost the entire network throughout England, Scotland and Wales for seven consecutive days (£492, discounts available with certain railcards; some time restrictions apply).

      There are numerous options when it comes to annual railcards railcard.co.uk), including the 16–25 Railcard for full-time students and people aged between 16 and 25; the Senior Railcard for travellers over 60; the Two Together card for a couple travelling together; and the Family & Friends Railcard for groups of up to four adults and four children travelling together. Each costs £30 for the year and gives up to a third off most adult fares in Britain (more for children’s fares).

      By bus

      Travel by bus – long-distance services are known as coaches – is usually much cheaper than by train, though less comfortable, and traffic congestion can make the same journey much longer. The biggest intercity bus operators in England are National Express nationalexpress.com) and Megabus megabus.com); north of the border, Scottish Citylink www.citylink.co.uk). On busy routes, and on any route at weekends and holidays, it’s advisable to book ahead to get the best deal. Fares are generally very reasonable, with discounts for under-26s, over-60s and families, plus various advance-purchase fares and special promotions. Regional and urban bus services are run by a huge array of companies. Check Traveline travelinescotland.com) for information and routes. In many cases, timetables and routes are well integrated, but more remote, rural spots are neglected.

      By car

      Your British driving experience will depend very much on where you drive. Slogging through the traffic from major city to major city is rarely an illuminating way to see the nation – motorways (M roads) and main A roads may have up to four lanes in each direction, but even these can get very congested, with long traffic jams, especially at peak travel times and on public holidays. Driving in the countryside is far more agreeable, though on B roads and minor roads there might only be one lane (single track) in both directions. Keep your speed down, and be prepared for abrupt encounters with tractors, sheep and other hazards in remote spots.

      Don’t underestimate the British weather, either. Snow, ice, fog and wind can cause havoc – and there has been major flooding in the past few years – and driving conditions, on motorways as much as in rural areas, can deteriorate quickly. Local radio stations feature regularly updated traffic bulletins, as does the Highways Agency trafficengland.com).

      Britain has a few toll roads, namely the M6 in the Midlands and the Dartford Thames crossing east of London, plus various local bridges and tunnels; the Severn Bridge tolls into Wales will cease at the end of 2018. Note, too, that congestion charges apply in London. Fuel is pricey – unleaded petrol (gasoline) and diesel in particular. Out-of-town supermarkets usually have the lowest prices, while the highest prices are charged by motorway service stations.

      Parking in towns, cities and popular tourist spots can be a nightmare and often costs a small fortune. A yellow line along the edge of the road indicates parking restrictions; check the nearest sign to see exactly what they are. A double-yellow line means no parking at any time, though you can stop briefly to unload or pick up people or goods, while red lines signify no stopping at all. Fines for parking illegally are high – as much as £130 (though reduced if you pay within fourteen days) – and if you’re wheel-clamped it will cost you £200 or so to have your vehicle released.

      Rules and regulations

      Drive on the left. Seatbelts must be worn by everyone in a vehicle, front and back, while motorcyclists and their passengers must wear a helmet. You are not permitted to make a kerbside turn against a red light and must always give way to traffic (circulating clockwise) on a roundabout – this applies even for mini-roundabouts, which may be no more than a white circle painted on the road. Speed limits are 20mph in many residential streets, 30mph in built-up areas, 70mph on dual carriageways and motorways and 60mph on most other roads – as a rule, assume that in any area with street lighting the speed limit is 30mph unless otherwise stated. Be alert to the signs, as speed cameras are everywhere.

      Most foreign nationals can get by with their driving licence from home, but if you’re in any doubt, obtain an international driving permit from a national motoring organization. Anyone bringing their own vehicle into the country should also carry vehicle registration, ownership and insurance documents.

      greenflag.com) all operate 24-hour emergency breakdown services, and offer useful online route planners. You may be entitled to free assistance through a reciprocal arrangement with a motoring organization in your home country – check before setting out. You can make use of these emergency services if you are not a member, but you will need to join at the roadside and will incur a hefty surcharge.

      Vehicle rental

      Car rental auto-europe.co.uk.

      If you rent a car from a company in the UK, expect to pay around £30 per day, £50 for a weekend, or £100–160 per week. Few companies will rent to drivers with less than one year’s experience and most will only rent to people aged between 21 (or 23) and 70. Rental cars will be manual (stick shift) unless you specify otherwise – if you want an automatic transmission, book well ahead and expect to pay at least £170 a week. Motorbike rental roadtrip.uk).

      When considering touring some of Brtain’s wilder areas, a motorhome or camper van bunkcampers.com, which has depots in London, Belfast, Birmingham, Glasgow and Edinburgh.

      By bike

      Cycling around Britain can be a pleasant option, as long as you stick to the quieter B roads and country lanes – or, best of all, follow one of the traffic-free trails of the extensive National Cycle Network.

      Cycle helmets are not compulsory – but you’re well advised to wear one, especially if you’re hell-bent on tackling the congestion, pollution and aggression of city traffic. You do have to have a rear reflector and front and back lights when riding at night, and you are not allowed to carry children without a special child seat. It is also illegal to cycle on pavements and in most public parks (unless designated), while off-road cyclists must stick to bridleways and by-ways designated for their use.

      Bike rental is available at cycle shops in most large towns, and at villages within National Parks and other scenic areas. Expect to pay around £20–25 per day, or more for specialist mountain bikes and less for multi-day rents; you may need to provide credit card details or leave a passport as a deposit.

      nationalrail.co.uk for individual company regulations. Bus and coach companies rarely accept cycles, and even then only if they are dismantled and boxed.

      < Back to Basics

      Accommodation

      Accommodation in Britain ranges from corporate chain hotels to crumbling castles, from budget backpacker hostels to chic boutique hotels. Often they’re in interesting old buildings – former coaching inns, converted mansions and manor houses – which offer heaps of historic atmosphere. Accommodation does tend to be quite expensive, but there are bargains to be had.

      A nationwide grading system, annually upgraded, awards stars to hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs. There’s no hard and fast correlation between rank and price, but the system does lay down minimum levels of standards and service. However, not every establishment participates, and you shouldn’t assume that a particular place is no good simply because it doesn’t. In the rural backwaters in particular some of the best accommodation is to be found in farmhouses and other simple properties whose facilities may technically fall short of official standards.

      When it comes to costs, single occupancy rates vary widely: though they’re typically around three-quarters of the price of a double, some places charge almost the full double rate and others charge only a little over half that. Rates in hotels and B&Bs may well drop between Sunday and Thursday, or if you stay more than one night, and some places will require a minimum stay of two or more nights at the weekend and/or in high season; we indicate in the Guide when an establishment has a general rule on this.

      Breakfast is generally included in rates –except in pricer places – and free wi-fi is usually available. Reviews in the Guide note when that isn’t the case.

      Hotels

      British hotels vary wildly in size, style, comfort and price. The starting price for a basic hotel is around £80 per night for a double or twin room, breakfast usually included; anything more upmarket, or with a bit of boutique style, will be around £100 a night, while at the top-end properties the sky’s the limit, especially in London or in resort or country-house hotels. Note that in comparison to the cheaper places, many of the pricier hotels – especially those in the cities – may charge extra for breakfast.

      ACCOMMODATION PRICES

      Throughout this Guide we give a headline price for every accommodation reviewed, which indicates the lowest price you could expect to pay per night for a double or twin room in high season (prices fluctuate a lot depending on demand, with high-season rates generally guaranteed in July and August, plus during school holidays between Easter and the end of September, though local variations apply). We also give the high-season price for a dorm bed, and double rooms where they exist, in hostels – note that for YHA hostels, prices quoted are for non-members (members get a £3/night discount). Prices given for self-catering options indicate the minimum per-night price in high season. For campsites we quote the cost of a pitch for two people bringing their own tent, unless otherwise stated.

      Budget hotel chains easyhotel.com) can be even cheaper, offering a simple add-on system whereby you book a minimal room online with the option of adding niceties including cleaning, windows, TVs, wi-fi and baggage storage.

      B&Bs, guesthouses and pubs

      At its most basic, the typical English bed-and-breakfast (B&B) is an ordinary private house with a couple of bedrooms set aside for paying guests. Larger establishments with more rooms, particularly in resorts, style themselves as guesthouses, but they are pretty much the same thing.

      At the extreme budget end of the scale – basic B&Bs under £70 a night, a little less in Wales – you’ll normally experience small rooms, fairly spartan facilities and shared bathrooms (though there are some fantastic exceptions). Many top-notch B&Bs – say around £100–120 or more per night – offer more luxury and far better value pound for pound than more impersonal hotels. In this category you can also count pubs (or inns), and the increasingly popular "restaurants with rooms".

      Hostels

      Between them, the Youth Hostels Association yha.org.uk) of England

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