How to Cook Eggs and Omelets in 300 Different Ways
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How to Cook Eggs and Omelets in 300 Different Ways - Charles Herman Senn
HOW TO COOK
EGGS AND OMELETS
Copyright © 2017 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
The Vintage Cookery Books Series
A Short History of the Cook Book
One might be forgiven for thinking, in our age of celebrity chefs and glossy publications, that cook books are a relatively modern occurrence. However cook books have an incredibly long history, dating as far back as the first century CE.
The oldest collection of recipes that has survived in Europe is De Re Coquinaria, written in Latin. An early version was first compiled sometime in the first century and has often been attributed to the Roman gourmet, Marcus Gavius Apicius. An even earlier example (though less recognisable as a modern cook book), was also found in the Roman empire. This was the first known food writer – a Greek Sicilian named Archestratus, who lived in the fourth century BCE. He wrote a poem that spoke of using 'top quality and seasonal' ingredients, and insisted that flavours should not be masked by spices, herbs or other seasonings. Archestratus placed special importance on the simple preparation of fish.
Simplicity was abandoned and replaced by a culture of gastronomy as the Roman Empire developed however. By the time De Re Coquinaria was published, it contained 470 recipes calling for heavy use of spices and herbs. After a long interval, the first recipe books to be compiled in Europe since Late Antiquity started to appear in the thirteenth century. About a hundred are known to have survived, some fragmentary, from the age before printing. The earliest genuinely medieval recipes have been found in a Danish manuscript dating from around 1300, which in turn is a copy of older texts that date back to the early thirteenth century or perhaps earlier. Chinese cook books have also been found, dating to around this time – and one of the earliest surviving Chinese-language cookbooks; Hu Sihui's Important Principles of Food and Drink is believed to have been written in 1330.
German manuscripts are among the most numerous examples of cook books, among them being The Book of Good Food written in 1350 and Kitchen Mastery written in 1485. Two French collections are probably the most famous: Le Viandier ('The Provisioner') which was compiled in the late fourteenth century by Guillaume Tirel, and The Householder of Paris; a household book written by an anonymous middle class Parisian in the 1390s. Recipes originating in England include the earliest recorded recipe for ravioli, and the renowned Forme of Cury (mid-fourteenth century), compiled by the Master Cooks of King Richard II of England.
Cookbooks that serve as basic kitchen references (sometimes known as 'kitchen bibles') began to appear in the early modern period. They provided not just recipes but overall instructions for both kitchen technique and household management. Such books were written primarily for housewives and occasionally domestic servants, as opposed to professional cooks. Containing a veritable wealth of information, books such as The Joy of Cooking (USA), La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange (France), The Art of Cookery (UK), Il Cucchiaio D'Argento (Italy), and A Gift to Young Housewives (Russia) have served as records for entire national cuisines. With the advent of the printing press in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, numerous books were written on how to manage households and prepare food. In Holland and England especially, competition grew between the noble families as to who could prepare the most lavish banquet.
By the 1660s, cookery had progressed to an art form and good cooks were in demand. Many of these professional chefs took full advantage of the new trend, and published their own books detailing their recipes in competition with their rivals. By the nineteenth century, the Victorian preoccupation for domestic respectability brought about the emergence of cookery writing in its modern form. Although eclipsed in fame and regard by Isabella Beeton, the first modern cookery writer and compiler of recipes for the home was Eliza Acton. Her pioneering cookbook, Modern Cookery for Private Families (published in 1845), was aimed at the domestic reader rather than the professional cook or chef. This was an immensely influential book, and it established the format for modern writing about cookery.
The publication of Modern Cookery introduced the now-universal practice of listing the ingredients and suggested cooking times with each recipe. It also included the first recipe for Brussels sprouts. The book long survived its author, remaining in print until 1914 – functioning as an important influence on Isabella Beeton. Beeton went on to write and publish Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management in twenty-four monthly parts between 1857 and 1861. Of the 1,112 pages detailing domestic issues, over 900 contained recipes, such that another popular name for the volume is Mrs Beeton's Cookbook. Most of the recipes were illustrated with coloured engravings, and it was the first book to show recipes in a format that is still used today. In 1896, the American cook Fannie Farmer published her illustrious work, The Boston Cooking School Cookbook, which contained some 1,849 recipes.
A good store of vintage cook books should be a kitchen staple for any creative cook. And as such, this series provides a collection of works, designed to instruct, inform and entertain the modern-day reader on times, peoples and foods of the past. Today, the simple pleasures of practical household skills (so wonderfully demonstrated in these books) have been all but forgotten. Now, it's time to get back to basics. This series will take the reader back to the golden age of practical skills; an age where making and mending, cooking and preserving, brewing and bottling, were all done within the home.
The Vintage Cookery Books series hopes to bring old wisdom and classic techniques back to life, as we have so much to learn from 'the old ways' of cooking. Not only can these books provide a fascinating window into past societies, cultures and every-day life, but they also let us actively delve into our own history – with a taste of what, how and when, people ate, drank, and socialised. Enjoy.
HOW TO COOK
EGGS AND OMELETS
IN 300 DIFFERENT WAYS
By
C. HERMAN SENN, G.C.A., F.R.H.S.
Author of
The New Century Cookery Book,
"The Cookery
Manual,
The Culinary Encyclopædia,"
The Menu Book,
etc.
EGGS AS FOOD
THERE is perhaps no other article of diet which is more important as a food than eggs, and few articles are served in a greater variety of ways or more largely consumed. Besides those of the domestic fowl, the eggs of the duck, the goose, the guinea fowl, the plover, the ostrich and several other birds, and the turtle, are also used for cooking purposes. Hens’ eggs are, of course, the most popular, and for ordinary use are therefore most common.
Dr. Langworthy, in his article, Eggs and their Uses,
gives the following interesting information:—
"Other eggs besides those of birds are sometimes eaten. Turtle eggs are highly prized in most countries where they are abundant. They were once more commonly eaten in America than now, possibly owing to the more abundant supply in former times. The eggs of the terrapin are usually served with the flesh in some of the ways of preparing it for the table. Fish eggs, especially those of the sturgeon, are eaten in large quantities, preserved with salt, under the name of caviare. Shad roe is also a familiar example of the use of fish eggs as food. Mention may also be made of the use of the eggs of alligators, lizards, serpents, and some insects, by races who lack the prejudices of Western nations. However, in general, the term ‘eggs,’ when used in connection with food topics, refers to the eggs of birds, usually domestic poultry, and is so used in this article.
The appearance of an egg—the shell with its lining of membrane, enclosing the white and yolk—is too familiar to need any discussion. The physiological structure of the egg is perhaps less familiar. A fertile egg contains an embryo, and is at the same time a storehouse of material for the development and growth of the young individual from the embryo, until it has reached such a stage that life is possible outside the narrow limits of the shell. The embryo is situated quite close to the yolk, which furnishes the nutritive material for its early development, the white being used later.
CONTENTS AND INDEX
A
Almond Eggs (moulded) 28
Anchovy Eggs (cold) 68
Anchovy Eggs (another way) 49
Aspic or Savoury Jelly 131
B
Baked Eggs à la Princesse 52
Béchamel Sauce 129
Brown Sauce 130
Buttered Eggs 26
Buttered Eggs with Anchovies 27
Buttered Eggs with Truffles 28
C
Caviare Eggs 90
Chaud-froid of Eggs (cold) 93
Cheese, Creamed 63
Cheese Eggs 82
Chestnut Purée, Savoury 52
Coddled Eggs 126
Creamed Eggs with Mushrooms 39
Curried Eggs 33
Curried Eggs (another way) 62
Curry Sauce 130
D
Devilled Eggs 84
Devilled Egg Toast 64
Digestibility of Eggs, The 14
Dropped Eggs 62
E
Egg Bouchées 42
Egg Bouillon 124
Egg Cannelons 43
Egg Coffee 125
Egg Coquilles with Spinach 45
Egg Croquettes 53
Egg Croustades 28
Egg Croûtes with Game 72
Egg Cutlets 43
Egg Cutlets with Spinach 44
Egg Darioles 86
Egg Fillip 126
Egg Flip 127
Egg Fritters à la Magdalène 61
Egg Fritters à la Milanaise 44
Egg Fritters à la Royale 78
Egg Jelly (sweet) 124