The Great Glen Way: Fort William to Inverness Two-way trail guide
By Paddy Dillon
()
About this ebook
The guidebook - which includes both a guide to the route and a separate OS map booklet - describes the route in both directions. Ideal as an introduction to long-distance walking, the 79-mile Great Glen Way is split into six stages easily walked within a week, with high- and low-level options given for two of these. An alternative route past the northern side of Loch Oich (via Invergarry) is also described.
The guidebook includes practical information, 1:100,000 OS mapping, step-by-step route descriptions for every stage of the walk and lists the facilities found along the way. A separate booklet of 1:25,000 OS mapping provides all the mapping needed to walk the trail. The trail stretches alongside the scenic Caledonian Canal, which links Loch Lochy and Loch Oich with the famous Loch Ness. The route uses undulating forest tracks, lakeside paths, old drove roads and military roads, as well as contrasting stretches over heather moorlands or through city suburbs. The Great Glen is one of the most remarkable features in the Scottish landscape - a ruler-straight valley along an ancient fault line through the Highlands.
Paddy Dillon
Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 100 guidebooks to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written for several outdoor magazines and other publications and has appeared on radio and television. Paddy uses a tablet computer to write as he walks. His descriptions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them. Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britain's National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, China, Korea and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. www.paddydillon.co.uk
Read more from Paddy Dillon
Walking on Madeira: 60 mountain and levada routes on Madeira and Porto Santo Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on the Azores: 70 routes across Sao Miguel, Santa Maria, Terceira, Graciosa, Sao Jorge, Pico, Faial, Flores and Corvo Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTrekking the GR20 Corsica: The High Level Route: Guidebook and map booklet Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on Gran Canaria: 45 day walks including five days on the GR131 coast-to-coast route Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe National Trails: 19 Long-Distance Routes through England, Scotland and Wales Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on La Gomera and El Hierro: 45 day walks and treks for all abilities Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTrekking in Mallorca: GR221 - The Drystone Route through the Serra de Tramuntana Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTrekking in the Canary Islands: The GR131 island-hopping route Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on Malta: 33 walks on the Mediterranean islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on Tenerife: 45 walks including El Teide and GR 131 Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe GR5 Trail: Through the French Alps from Lake Geneva to Nice Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking the South West Coast Path: National Trail From Minehead to South Haven Point Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking the Wicklow Way: A week-long walk from Dublin to Clonegal Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMountain Walking in Mallorca: 50 routes in Mallorca's Tramuntana Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on La Palma: Including the GR130 and GR131 long-distance trails Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking in the Isles of Scilly: 11 walks and 4 boat trips exploring the best of the islands Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking and Trekking in Iceland: 100 days of walking and multi-day treks Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Walking in the North Pennines: 50 Walks in England's remotest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Pennine Way: From Edale to Kirk Yetholm Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Walking on Jersey: 24 routes and the Jersey Coastal Walk Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking in County Durham: 40 walking routes exploring Pennine moors, river valleys and coastal paths Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe North York Moors: 50 walks in the National Park Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsShort Walks Lake District - Coniston and Langdale Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTrekking in Greenland - The Arctic Circle Trail: From Kangerlussuaq to Sisimiut Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Walking on Arran: The best low level walks and challenging mountain routes, including the Arran Coastal Way Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking on Guernsey: 25 routes including the Guernsey Coastal Walk, Alderney, Sark and Herm Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Related to The Great Glen Way
Related ebooks
Lonely Planet Scotland's Highlands & Islands Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Walking the Cape Wrath Trail: Backpacking through the Scottish Highlands: Fort William to Cape Wrath Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The West Highland Way: Milngavie to Fort William Scottish Long Distance Route Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Walking the Munros Vol 2 - Northern Highlands and the Cairngorms Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking in Cumbria's Eden Valley: 30 walks between the Yorkshire Dales and the Solway salt marshes Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsInsight Guides Pocket Scotland (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Walking in the Cairngorms: Over 100 walks, trails and scrambles including Lochnagar Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBerlitz Pocket Guide Scotland (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Cycling Land's End to John o' Groats: LEJOG end-to-end on quiet roads and traffic-free paths Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Wales Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Skye & Outer Hebrides, 2nd edition: Includes Barra, Benbecula, Eigg, Harris, Lewis, Rum, the Uists Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Coast to Coast Walk: St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Mountain Walking in Snowdonia: 40 of the finest routes in Snowdonia Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking the John o' Groats Trail: Coastal walking from Inverness to John o' Groats Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSnowdonia: 30 Low-level and Easy Walks - North: Snowdon, the Ogwen and Conwy Valleys and the coast Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Pocket Lake District Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking the Tour of the Lake District: A nine-day circuit of Cumbria's fells, valleys and lakes Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsCycling in the Hebrides: Island touring and day rides including The Hebridean Way Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Walking in the Yorkshire Dales: South and West: Wharfedale, Littondale, Malhamdale, Dentdale and Ribblesdale Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking in the Brecon Beacons: 45 circular walks in the National Park Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking the South West Coast Path: National Trail From Minehead to South Haven Point Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsCycling the Way of the Roses: Coast to coast across Lancashire and Yorkshire, with six circular day rides Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsPocket Rough Guide Walks & Tours Ireland: Travel Guide eBook Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLonely Planet Scotland Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Pennine Way: From Edale to Kirk Yetholm Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Lonely Planet Ireland Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Scrambles in the Dark Peak: Easy summer scrambles and winter climbs Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Isle of Mull: Mull, Ulva, Gometra, Iona and Erraid Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsHillwalking in Shropshire: 32 hill and country walks Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWalking the Munros Vol 1 - Southern, Central and Western Highlands Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Outdoors For You
The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook: Travel Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Alive: The Story of the Andes Survivors Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5How to Survive Off the Grid: From Backyard Homesteads to Bunkers (and Everything in Between) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBetween a Rock and a Hard Place: The Basis of the Motion Picture 127 Hours Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Bushcraft Illustrated: A Visual Guide Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Bushcraft First Aid: A Field Guide to Wilderness Emergency Care Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Survival Hacks: Over 200 Ways to Use Everyday Items for Wilderness Survival Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Bushcraft 101: A Field Guide to the Art of Wilderness Survival Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Emerald Mile: The Epic Story of the Fastest Ride in History Through the Heart of the Grand Canyon Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5SAS Survival Handbook, Third Edition: The Ultimate Guide to Surviving Anywhere Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Advanced Bushcraft: An Expert Field Guide to the Art of Wilderness Survival Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/552 Prepper Projects: A Project a Week to Help You Prepare for the Unpredictable Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Grandma Gatewood's Walk: The Inspiring Story of the Woman Who Saved the Appalachian Trail Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Mind Gym: An Athlete's Guide to Inner Excellence Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Norwegian Wood: Chopping, Stacking, and Drying Wood the Scandinavian Way Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Field Guide to Knots: How to Identify, Tie, and Untie Over 80 Essential Knots for Outdoor Pursuits Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsOutdoor Survival Guide: Survival Skills You Need Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Emergency Survival Manual: 294 Life-Saving Skills Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5438 Days: An Extraordinary True Story of Survival at Sea Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Foraging: The Ultimate Beginners Guide to Foraging Wild Edible Plants and Medicinal Herbs Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Pocket Guide to Essential Knots: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Most Important Knots for Everyone Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Ultimate Bushcraft Survival Manual: 272 Wilderness Skills Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Ultimate Survival Medicine Guide: Emergency Preparedness for ANY Disaster Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5How To Be Alone: an 800-mile hike on the Arizona Trail Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5How to Survive Anything: From Animal Attacks to the End of the World (and Everything in Between) Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Ultimate Survival Hacks Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5The Bushcraft Field Guide to Trapping, Gathering, and Cooking in the Wild Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Total Outdoorsman Skills & Tools: 324 Tips Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5
Reviews for The Great Glen Way
0 ratings0 reviews
Book preview
The Great Glen Way - Paddy Dillon
About the Author
Paddy Dillon is a prolific walker and guidebook writer, with over 90 guidebooks to his name and contributions to 40 other titles. He has written for several outdoor magazines and other publications, and has appeared on radio and television.
Paddy uses a tablet computer to write as he walks. His descriptions are therefore precise, having been written at the very point at which the reader uses them.
Paddy is an indefatigable long-distance walker who has walked all of Britain’s National Trails and several European trails. He has also walked in Nepal, Tibet, Korea and the Rocky Mountains of Canada and the US. Paddy is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and is President of the Backpackers Club.
Other Cicerone guides by the author
Glyndwr’s Way
Mountain Walking in Mallorca
The Cleveland Way and the Yorkshire Wolds Way
The GR5 Trail
The GR20 Corsica
The Irish Coast to Coast Walk
The Mountains of Ireland
The National Trails
The North York Moors
The Pennine Way
The Reivers Way
The South West Coast Path
The Teesdale Way (Martin Collins; updated by Paddy Dillon)
The Wales Coast Path
Trekking in Greenland
Trekking in Mallorca
Trekking in the Alps (contributing author)
Walking and Trekking in Iceland
Walking in County Durham
Walking in Menorca
Walking in Sardinia
Walking in the Isles of Scilly
Walking in the North Pennines
Walking on Arran
Walking on Gran Canaria
Walking on Guernsey
Walking on Jersey
Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro
Walking on la Palma
Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura
Walking on Madeira
Walking on Malta
Walking on Tenerife
THE GREAT GLEN WAY
by Paddy Dillon
JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,
OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL
www.cicerone.co.uk
© Paddy Dillon 2016
Second edition 2016 Reprinted 2019 (with updates)
ISBN 9781783623044
First edition 2007
ISBN 978 1 85284 503 2
Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
1:100K route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com.
© Crown copyright 2016 OS PU100012932. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI
The 1:25K map booklet contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright 2015 OS PU100012932.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Updates to this Guide
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/801/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to updates@cicerone.co.uk or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal LA9 7RL.
Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk/801/updates.
Front cover: A view of Loch Ness from the rugged garden in front of the Lochside Hostel at Alltsigh (Stage 35, S-N; Stage 2, N-S)
CONTENTS
Map key
Overview map and profile
Route summary table
Trek planner
INTRODUCTION
Planning your trip
Choosing an itinerary
When to walk
Travel to the Great Glen
Travel through the Great Glen
First/Last night: Fort William
Last/First night: Inverness
Baggage transfer
Accommodation
Food and drink
Tourist information centres
Money
What to take
Planning day by day
Using this guide
Additional mapping
Weather forecasts
Waymarking and terrain
Scottish Outdoor Access Code
Rescue services
Great Glen Way Rangers
Phones and wi-fi
All about the Great Glen
Geology
Animals and plants
The Loch Ness Monster
History
GREAT GLEN WAY – SOUTH TO NORTH
Stage 1 Fort William to Gairlochy
Stage 2 Gairlochy to Laggan Locks
Stage 3 Laggan Locks to Fort Augustus
Invergarry Link
Stage 2A Gairlochy to Invergarry
Stage 3A Invergarry to Fort Augustus
Stage 4A Fort Augustus to Invermoriston (high-level)
Stage 4B Fort Augustus to Invermoriston (low-level)
Stage 5A Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit (high-level)
Stage 5B Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit (low-level)
Stage 6 Drumnadrochit to Inverness
GREAT GLEN WAY – NORTH TO SOUTH
Stage 1 Inverness to Drumnadrochit
Stage 2A Drumnadrochit to Invermoriston (high-level)
Stage 2B Drumnadrochit to Invermoriston (low-level)
Stage 3A Invermoriston to Fort Augustus (high-level)
Stage 3B Invermoriston to Fort Augustus (low-level)
Stage 4 Fort Augustus to Laggan Locks
Stage 5 Laggan Locks to Gairlochy
Invergarry Link
Stage 4A Fort Augustus to Invergarry
Stage 5A Invergarry to Gairlochy
Stage 6 Gairlochy to Fort William
Appendix A Useful information
Appendix B Accommodation along the route
Appendix C Timeline history
Appendix D Gaelic–English glossary
A whitewashed pepperpot lighthouse marks where the Caledonian Canal joins Loch Lochy near Gairlochy (Stage 1, S–N; Stage 6 N–S)
The view from Inverness Castle, taking in the Cathedral and River Ness (Stage 6, S–N; Stage 1, N–S)
ROUTE SUMMARY TABLES
Great Glen Way – south to north
Great Glen Way – north to south
The path between the road and the shore of Loch Lochy, near Gairlochy (Stage 2, S–N; Stage 5, N–S)
INTRODUCTION
A view of Loch Lochy near Achnacarry, as a passing shower moves through the glen and leaves a rainbow (Stage 2, S–N; Stage 5, N–S)
The Great Glen is a remarkable geographic feature, running ruler-straight from coast to coast through the Scottish Highlands. Loch Ness, Loch Lochy and little Loch Oich are neatly arranged through the glen, while steep and forested slopes rise towards splendid mountains to north and south. Man has not missed the opportunity to run a road along this low-lying glen, and the Caledonian Canal was cut through the glen, linking its three lochs with the coast. Walkers are now blessed with the provision of a waymarked trail through the glen, running up to 124km (79 miles) from Fort William to Inverness via Invergarry and Fort Augustus. It was officially opened on 30 April 2002 by Prince Andrew, in his role as the Earl of Inverness. As a low-lying trail, most walkers could complete it at most times of the year, and there is always ready access to accommodation, food, drink and transport services.
The Great Glen Way provides an easy and scenic route through the Highlands, where walkers can admire the rugged mountains without having to climb them. Although much of the route can be covered by mountain bike, some paths are only for walkers. Take the time to delve into the long and turbulent history of clan rivalry, strife and warfare. Marvel at the engineering associated with military roads, railway lines and the Caledonian Canal. Keep an eye peeled for a glimpse of the celebrated Loch Ness Monster!
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
The attractive lock-keeper’s cottage at Cullochy Lock near Aberchalder (Stage 3, S–N; Stage 4, N–S))
Choosing an itinerary
The Great Glen Way can easily be walked within a week, and most walkers will aim to complete the route in five or six days. The daily stages are likely to be uneven, and while some will happily walk an occasional long day, others may prefer to split a long stage into two shorter days.
The first thing to decide is whether to walk from Fort William to Inverness (south to north), or Inverness to Fort William (north to south). From a practical point of view, walking from Fort William to Inverness means that you are more likely to have the sun behind you, with the prevailing wind, and hence the weather, at your back. Rainfall also tends to decrease markedly the further you go in this direction. However, the route becomes progressively more difficult, with the higher and more remote stretches coming towards the end.
Those who choose to walk from Inverness to Fort William can cover the hilly parts first, but should bear in mind that if bad weather is coming from the south-west, as it usually does, then they may be walking directly into it. The route does become easier and lower on the way towards Fort William, but the weather may become progressively wetter. Many walkers who have covered the route both ways are convinced that the scenery is better when walking north to south, or at least, they are more aware of it.
This guidebook describes the Great Glen Way in both directions; and given the connection with the West Highland Way at Fort William, there is no reason why both trails shouldn’t be walked together in one long journey between Glasgow and Inverness, or vice versa. Many walkers also find themselves drawn to climb Ben Nevis while based at Fort William.
When to walk
Weather conditions can change rapidly, but the Great Glen Way is essentially a low-level walking route
Most walkers will choose to trek through the Great Glen in the peak summer period. This can be a splendid time, weather-wise, with as much as 18 hours of good daylight. However, it is also a busy time and there can be a lot of pressure on accommodation and services along the way. The advantage is that all services will certainly be in full swing and are there to be used. Those who walk in spring or early summer will be able to enjoy the added colour of wild flowers along the way, while those walking in late summer should be able to catch the purple heather at its blooming best.
Summer is also the peak breeding season for the voracious ‘midge’; a tiny insect (Culicoides impunctatus) that can cause distressingly itchy bites. Midges favour still conditions in the mornings and evenings, and are unlikely to be a problem in the middle of sunny, windy or rainy days. Most walkers move at a pace that outwits the midge, denying it a chance to land on the skin, but at every resting point, they seize the opportunity to feed on your blood. There are a number of repellants on the market, which meet with mixed reviews from users: basically the less skin that is exposed, the less skin will be bitten.
Autumn brings its own delights, as the days are often cool and ideal for walking, and most services are still operating, though under less pressure. As the deciduous trees and bracken-clad slopes turn russet and golden, the scenery can be breathtaking. However, the weather can be wet, windy and misty at times, and some parts of the route may become wet and muddy.
Winter walking is possible, since the low-lying Great Glen is often free of snow even when there are deep drifts elsewhere. A thin covering of snow will not be a problem, but care should always be taken on icy slopes. Deep drifts, though short-lived, can make walking very difficult. Camping might not be the best option in the winter months, unless walkers are particularly hardy and possess the right gear for it. The chance to finish the day by a blazing fire in cosy lodgings has much more appeal, but bear in mind that not all the accommodation will be open throughout the winter months. Also note that midwinter daylight hours are very short: maybe as little as six hours!
Travel to the Great Glen
See Appendix A for the contact details of transport operators and information services.
Air
The nearest airport to the Great Glen is Inverness Airport (01667 464000, www.invernessairport.co.uk). There are direct flights to Inverness from major British airports such as London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Luton, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester, Belfast and a few small Scottish airports. Most flights are operated by Flybe, www.flybe.com, and Easyjet, www.easyjet.com. Direct flights to Inverness are also available from Amsterdam with KLM, www.klm.com. Stagecoach Jet Bus and local taxis operate from the airport into the centre of Inverness, which is very handy for the northern terminus of the Great Glen Way, or