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    A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern
    A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern
    A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern
    Ebook1,621 pages12 hours

    A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern

    By Mary Brooks Picken

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    About this ebook

    While most of us would have little difficulty in recognizing a buckle, hem, or seam, we might be considerably more challenged if asked to identify a godet, a trilby, or a vamp. With this handy book at your fingertips, however, you can quickly find the definition of over 10,000 words associated with wearing apparel and fashion.
    From bateau necklines, bobs, and bustles to plackets, havelocks, and bavolets, terms are assembled alphabetically or in groups according to dress parts, fabrics, elements of design, and other style categories. In addition, over 950 clearly detailed illustrations depict stitches, weaves, laces, garments, collars, shoes, jewelry, hair styles, and other sartorial features.
    This is the perfect reference for increasing fashion vocabularies, injecting a stimulating term or phrase in conversations about wearing apparel, or making articles written about clothing more understandable. Fashion writers, costume designers, manufacturers, buyers, sales people — anyone interested in the history of fashion — will welcome this thorough and comprehensive guidebook. "Unique in its field and containing material not easily accessible elsewhere, it definitely has a place in the general reference library for quick identification purposes and for anyone concerned with the fashion field." — Booklist

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherDover Publications
    Release dateJul 24, 2013
    ISBN9780486141602
    A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern

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      A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion - Mary Brooks Picken

      A Dictionary of

      Costume and Fashion

      Historic and Modern

      With over 950 Illustrations

      MARY BROOKS PICKEN

      DOVER PUBLICATIONS, INC.

      Mineola, New York

      Copyright

      Copyright © 1985 by Joann J. Greener & Elizabeth M. Houck

      Copyright © 1957 by Mary Brooks Picken

      All rights reserved.

      Bibliographical Note

      This Dover edition, first published in 1999, is an unabridged republication of The Fashion Dictionary published by Funk & Wagnall’s, New York, in 1957.

      Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

      Picken, Mary Brooks, 1886–

      [Fashion dictionary]

      A dictionary of costume and fashion : historic and modern / Mary Brooks Picken.

      p. cm.

      Originally published under title: The fashion dictionary. New York : Funk & Wagnall’s, 1957.

      ISBN-13: 978-0-486-40294-9 (pbk.)

      ISBN-10: 0-486-40294-0 (pbk.)

      1. Clothing and dress-Dictionaries. 2. Fashion-Dictionaries. 3. Textile fabrics-Dictionaries.I. Title.

      TT503.P49 1999

      746.9′2′03-dc21

      98-30715

      CIP

      Manufactured in the United States by Courier Corporation

      40294006

      www.doverpublications.com

      This book is

      affectionately dedicated

      to my father

      CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS BROOKS

      and to my husband

      G. LYNN SUMNER

      Contents

      Dedication

      To The Reader

      Index According to Groups

      The Fashion Dictionary

      A

      B

      C

      D

      E

      F

      G

      H

      I

      J

      K

      L

      M

      N

      O

      P

      Q

      R

      S

      T

      U

      V

      W

      X

      Y

      Z

      Index of Illustrations

      TO THE READER

      This Book and You

      THIS book provides you with a quick and ready reference for more than 10,000 words in the language of fashion—words associated primarily with wearing apparel and accessories and whatever goes into the making of them. Most of these words are not easily accessible elsewhere, as they are so often not to be found in the household dictionary of average size. When they are to be found in the dictionary, they are not always defined from a fashion point of view; and of course they are not assembled in groups for comparison or quick reference.

      You who would know fashion and use it to express beauty and charm in your own clothes will find a study of this book invaluable. It will enable you to become familiar with the history of fashion. It will illuminate your reading of articles on fashion and of the advertising of fashion merchanise. And in planning your own clothes, it will help you to understand what goes with what and why, and to use fashion to your personal advantage.

      Among other special features of this book, these may be noted: It includes the important stitches, laces, embroideries, and weaves you might be interested to know about, describing them so that you will recognize them at once; in many cases you will be able actually to do the stitches from the illustrations. It defines fabrics and leathers, generally specifies which garments and articles they are suitable for, and occasionally lists the qualities of the materials as they affect their choice for wear. It groups the different kinds of furs, and indicates which are real furs and which are imitations. You will find the book particularly helpful, for example, when you see something advertised and would like to learn the essential details. Hundreds of types of garments are given so that it is easy for you to identify the important feature of a silhouette and often to know something of its origin.

      This book should prove an inspiration to those who desire to make a fancy-dress costume or to dress a pageant or play; for, with the illustrations and definitions of costumes, enough information is often available for the making or creation of those costumes. These historical costumes, being representative of a period or type, are suitable to wear for fancy dress.

      Increase Your Fashion Vocabulary

      THE language of fashion provides the everyday talk of many women—when shopping, when describing something seen or advertised or reported. She can make her talk more accurate and far more picturesque if she knows a silhouette or color or texture or design, knows what it is related to and also something of its history.

      It is hoped that this book will increase the vocabulary of many, make fashion talk more interesting, and the reading of fashion material in the press more understandable and therefore exciting.

      Fashion writers should find this book an inspiration. It should help them to make comparisons of fashion garments and to write descriptions that will make word-pictures for their readers. People in the trade, manufacturers, and designers should also find its illustrations and definitions useful, especially in helping them decide upon appropriate names for articles they design or create. Often they can take from the old a word that describes the article they have created, change it in some way to make it modern, or find a new way to spell it. The spelling of even ordinary words is often thus changed for copyrighted names and trademarks.

      This book is no larger than the average novel; yet it carries in its pages the story of mankind. Fashion has always been influenced by modes of transportation, the architecture of a period, and the customs of the people. Prosperity and poverty are recorded in the fashions of the ages, as are frugality and extravagance.

      Fashions have been named for men and women, for leaders, and for painters of note or vogue; and inventions have also had a part in contributing to the language of fashion. Until quite recently, very few fashions or items of dress have actually originated in America and practically all of those in the last half century. Dr. Paul H. Nystrom lists some of these in his book, Economics of Fashion, among them: the bungalow apron, jumper, middy blouse, Gibson Girl waist, the boyish form silhouette, union suits, rubber heels for shoes, health shoes, styles in nurses’ uniforms, and the slide fastener.

      Names come quickly into use in fashion. This book aims to cover the majority of important ones of the past, though it cannot anticipate the future. When the name of a living person influences fashion, study that person’s pictures in the press, actually see the garment or article illustrated. If an historical character influences the fashions, then by all means look up pictures of his person in your history books. If the work of a painter influences color or decoration or silhouette, study his works and see for yourself the items that are in vogue at the moment.

      Keep This Book at Hand

      FASHION writers delight in unusual words, making it desirable for the average person to be able to look up these words as he reads. When you read about fashions, keep this book at hand and use it. It will prove a boon because you can quickly find the definition of any word that is new to you or of one the full meaning of which you are not sure.

      Study how to use familiar words more precisely and effectively and the new words correctly. You will be delighted with the gain in your speech, and consequently find all fashions more interesting and yourself able to discuss them more intelligently.

      How To Use This Book

      IF you want to look up the meaning or the spelling or an unusual pronunciation of a word, simply look for it as you would in the average dictionary. Every word is listed alphabetically; and it is printed in bold type so that you can find it quickly. Those words are capitalized that should always be spelled with a capital letter. When an entire word in the definition is printed in small capital letters, it means that you can also find a definition under that word, listed alphabetically or within a group.

      When there is more than one meaning, each is numbered. The sense in which the word is generally used in the world of fashion is given first—though it is not necessarily the most common usage otherwise. Indeed, we omit the most common usage when it has no bearing on our subject. The origin of the word is given if the story is of unusual interest.

      For many French words and words of French origin we give both the masculine and the feminine forms. The latter is commonly indicated only by an added final e, but sometimes also by a further change in the last syllable, as, for example: blond, a fair man, and blonde, a fair woman; brunet, a dark man, and brunette, a dark woman; masseur, a man who massages, and masseuse, a woman who massages. Foreign words that appear within the definitions are printed in italic type, as in masseuse above.

      The Groups

      TYPES of garments, similar or related articles, and parts of dress, silhouettes, fabrics, raw materials, elements of design, details of construction, and the like have been assembled in groups for the purpose of reference, study, and comparison. If you are a student or a teacher, or if you are engaged in selling or in writing, designing, illustrating, or any other type of fashion work, you will be especially interested in the groups of which there are over 100 listed in the group index.

      If a word is to be found in one of the groups, it is always listed and defined as a separate word, and with the name of the group following the definition, printed in small capital letters and preceded by the word See. On looking it up under the group name, you will find the word there also as part of the group. Individual words, group names, and words within groups are always listed alphabetically.

      Gainsborough hat, for example, is listed in its alphabetical place under the letter G; a brief description of the hat is given, followed by the words, See HATS, as a cross-reference to the group. Under the heading HATS, different types of hats are listed. In this group, under Gainsborough h., is given a more complete definition. The word hat is represented by h., one-letter abbreviations such as b. for blouse and l. for lace being used when a group name is repeated as part of the term that is being defined.

      Words in the groups are usually more fully defined; and the groups and the definitions within the groups have a definite advantage for those who are especially interested in the study of fashion. If you simply want to look up the meaning of a word quickly, or its spelling or pronunciation, you do not have to refer to the group, as you will find the individual listing most often adequate for your purposes.

      Cross-references are also given in groups that are related to other groups, as boots and shoes and slippers are so related, for instance, and the hats and caps and bonnets.

      Illustrations

      THE illustrations of the dictionary are one of its most distinctive features. There are more than 750 line-cut illustrations. The illustrations of stitches, weaves, laces, garments, and all other groups are generally associated with the group for pictorial comparison. This is a convenient way for those studying one subject or desiring to obtain information about hats, for example, or collars or shoes, weaves or stitches.

      The section of half-tone illustrations is a new and most valuable feature of this edition. Here is given a survey of fashion and costume as recorded by famous artists in their times, arranged by centuries; and photographs of actual garments from the 17th to the 20th centuries. The reader will find a fascinating depiction of fashion change, and as well a source for new inspiration.

      Pronunciation

      THE pronunciation of individual words not only varies throughout the world, but even in different regions within the United States. Many words are pronounced in two or more ways, and authorities are not always agreed upon which pronunciation is preferred. Here, as a rule, we have limited ourselves to one pronunciation, the one most often preferred. A second pronunciation is shown only when the accent can fall on different syllables, or when different spellings are given and the pronunciation is affected by the spelling, or when the word has recently been adapted from a foreign language—if it is French, for example—and may be given either the English or the French pronunciation if it seems not to have been Anglicized. Where no pronunciation is given, pronounce the word just as it looks, that is, as a standard English word.

      As pronunciation varies with time, we naturally have chosen the pronunciations that prevail at the present time. The pronunciation (whenever it is believed it will be helpful) is given in parentheses immediately after the word that is being defined. The way a word is spelled is not always a guide to how it is pronounced, as the sound value of a letter may vary in different words. Notice, for example, the difference in the sounds of a and o and e when you say the words art and fate, ton and note, be and pen. For the pronunciation, therefore, we have respelled the words in a manner to indicate the closest possible sound values.

      For English terms the stressed or accented syllable is printed in italic; for French words the stress is approximately even for each syllable, hence no marked accent is shown.

      Study Pronunciation of the Words You Use

      WHEN you look up a word, say the pronunciation so that by hearing it you will become familiar with the preferred form and feel completely at ease when you use the word in conversation.

      You can train your ear by paying attention to the speech of word-conscious persons with whom you come in contact and by listening carefully to those noted for their diction who speak in the pulpit, on the platform, on the radio, on television, or on the stage and screen. Remember that our education does not end when we leave school: it should continue throughout our life. By keeping alert and interested in what is going on about us, we can all enjoy a fuller, richer life. Knowing words, their meanings as well as their correct pronunciations, can become a fascinating and worthwhile hobby.

      When Spelling Varies

      SOME words are spelled in two or more ways, each of which is correct, but one of which is usually preferred. In addition to the preferred form, the variant spellings are given, preceded by the word or, as in pajama or pyjama.

      In some cases where the variant spelling is in common use, the variant is listed also in its alphabetical place so that you can readily find the word under the form with which you more familiar, for if a word were listed only under the preferred form—filibeg, for instance, and you were looking for philibeg—it might be thought that the word was not included in the book.

      The definition of a word is given only under the preferred spelling. To conserve space, as you will see, we do not repeat the definition but cross-refer it to the proper entry. Some words, as they appear in fashion news from abroad and in magazine and newspaper articles, are often given a spelling that varies from the standard form. Burunduki, for example, the Siberian chipmunk, is frequently spelled barunduki; gillie, the laced sports shoe, frequently appears as ghillie.

      New Words and Old

      SPOKEN language is a living thing, subject to change. New words come into being as the need arises; old words drop out or become used in a different sense. This is particularly true of the language of fashion, which is being continually influenced by what is happening daily throughout the world. All articles of apparel have a relationship to other cultures, to other countries, and to the past, from which their name is often derived; sometimes in the original form, at others in wide variation.

      An event of international importance may bring a little-known part of the world into the news of the day, and this in turn may effect the current fashions; or the popularity of a period play on the stage or screen, or of a best selling novel, may bring about the widespread revival of fashions of other days. So we have included in this book not only the fashion names that are in current usage, but many fashion terms from past eras. These are important not only for their bearing on the past, but for what they may mean in the future—there are modern versions of the wimple and the snood, for example, and of the hoop skirt. Many of the words given will be found in the general literature of the seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth centuries—increasingly so as writers broadened their descriptive observations.

      Color

      SOME words are important in the fashion world for a season or more, but do not survive. This is especially noticeable with regard to colors. Each season, different shades have their vogue under new names. The more ephemeral have been omitted from this book; but we have included some color names, such as Alice blue, that have a seeming permanence of identification. As a rule, new colors are given names that will bring the color to mind. Hindenburg Gray, for example, was like the color of the ill-fated Zeppelin; Queen Blue was the soft, medium-blue color once favored by Queen Elizabeth of England.

      Trademarks

      INDUSTRY has made its own definite contribution to the language of fashion, chiefly in words coined for use as trademarks or as the names of fabrics or accessories or articles of apparel. In the definitions in this book, wherever possible, we state which words belong in this category, such as Bakelite and Plaskon, Dacron and Lastex, the trade names for certain synthetic compositions.

      Popular trademarks or copyrighted names become inevitably an everyday part of fashion vocabulary, and their use throughout this book does not in any way affect the validity of their trademark or copyright. Zipper is one such popular word. Although it was patented by a rubber manufacturer as the name of an overshoe to be worn in wet weather (which was fastened by a slide fastener), the word zipper is now widely used for the slide fastener itself, whether used on overshoes, baggage, garments, or accessories.

      Federal Trade Commission Regulations

      IN the 1930’s and 1940’s, the names and specifications of various textile products underwent considerable standardization as a result of the regulations of the Federal Trade Commission. For example, the Wool Products Labelling Act of 1939, which became effective in 1941, defines the terms wool, reprocessed wool, re-used wool for use in labelling and advertising. Trade Practice Rules have been set for label information and advertising claims regarding silk fabrics, rayons, linens, hosiery, shrinkage guarantees, and various other proof and resistant finishes. The rules require that the name of the fabric shall not misrepresent the fiber content, the country of origin, or the method of manufacture. All rayon products, thus, must bear the word rayon on their labels; non-linen fabrics may not be named with any word or syllable such as lin that gives the impression that they are made of linen; fabrics of mixed fibers must have the percentages of the various fibers stated. In wool products, the use of specialty fibers such as alpaca, mohair, etc., must also be indicated; the terms hand-loomed, etc., may not be used unless the fabric is actually made as implied. Therefore, many old textile terms, formerly used freely or in a general sense, may no longer be applied for labelling or advertising purposes. This book has not eliminated these older, more general terms, because they occur in their original senses in literature, in books on costume, and in other non-technical writings, and are therefore of interest to the general reader. However, anyone who wants the actual wording of the Federal Trade Commission’s regulations is referred to The Laws, Rules and Regulations of the Federal Trade Commission, available in most libraries and from the office of the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, D. C.

      It is the purpose of this book to record the words of fashion significance of our own times and of the past in so far as it affects our fashions. Many textile, fur, leather, and other industrial words have been included from this point of view. On the other hand, other words current in those industries are not considered here because of their specialized or technical application which is not of especial interest to the seeker of fashion information. Most of these industries have their own special vocabulary lists which may be consulted by the technician at the larger public and technical libraries.

      Acknowledgment

      MARY Brooks Picken wishes to express her sincere and deep appreciation for the splendid cooperation of the following, who have helped her in so many ways to make this book complete, helpful, and interesting: Artists: Claire F. Valentine, Marie Struve, Jean Powers. Research and Editing: Kathleen Masterson, Treva W. Lucke, June Sumner Birdsong, Elizabeth McCleary, Evelyn Boatwright, Theresa Brakeley, Marie I. Moore, Paula E. Hill, Ruta Zukas, Audrey Arnold Orth, Dora Loues Miller, and Dr. Paul H. Nystrom.

      INDEX ACCORDING TO GROUPS

      Belts, 19

      Bindings, 21

      Blouses, 23

      Bobs, 24

      Bodices, 25

      Bonnets, 26

      Boots, 28

      Bows, 32

      Bracelets, 32

      Braids, 33

      Buckles, 37

      Bustles, 39

      Buttons, 39

      Buttonholes, 40

      Canvas, 45

      Caps, 45

      Capes, 51

      Checks, 59

      Coats, 65

      Coiffures, 70

      Collars, 71

      Color, 76

      Combs, 78

      Cottons, 84

      Crepes, 87

      Cuffs, 91

      Dots, 99

      Dress and Dresses, 101

      Dyeing, 107

      Earrings, 108

      Embroideries, 111

      Eyelets, 119

      Fabric, 119

      Fancy Dress, 122

      Fashion, 126

      Fasteners, 127

      Feathers, 127

      Finishing, 130

      Flannels, 131

      Furs, 138

      Ginghams, 148

      Gloves, 150

      Godets, 151

      Goods, 152

      Handbags, 157

      Hats, 159

      Heels, 171

      Hems, 173

      Hoods, 176

      Hoops, 177

      Hose, 178

      Jackets, 185

      Knitting, 194

      Knots, 195

      Laces, 196

      Leathers, 208

      Lengths, 212

      Linens, 213

      Masks, 221

      Necklaces, 230

      Necklines, 230

      Needles, 232

      Nets, 233

      Patterns, 244

      Pearls, 245

      Pins, 251

      Plackets, 254

      Plaids, 254

      Pleats, 256

      Pockets, 258

      Prints, 264

      Quilting, 268

      Rayon, 270

      Ribbons, 274

      Rings, 275

      Sashes, 282

      Satins, 283

      Scissors, 285

      Seams, 286

      Serges, 290

      Shears, 292

      Shirts, 293

      Shoes, 294

      Silhouettes, 300

      Silk, 301

      Skirts, 306

      Sleeves, 309

      Slips, 312

      Slippers, 313

      Sport Clothes, 318

      Stitches, 322

      Straws, 336

      Stripes, 338

      Suits, 339

      Sweaters, 341

      Taffetas, 343

      Tapes, 345

      Threads, 348

      Tucks, 357

      Vamps, 363

      Veils, 364

      Velvets, 365

      Watches, 370

      Weaves, 371

      Wigs, 374

      Wool, 377

      Wraps, 378

      Yarns, 382

      THE FASHION DICTIONARY

      A

      aal (ahl). Dye, red in color, obtained from root of East Indian shrub.

      aba or abba (ah ba). 1. Square Arab mantle. See WRAPS. 2. Cloth woven from hair of camels, goats, etc. Used for making aba mantle.

      abaca (ah ba kah). Fiber from leaf stalk of banana, commonly used in Philippines for making cordage, coarse fabrics, straw hats. Native name for Manila hemp.

      abaissé (F. a bess say). Lowered, as hem or waistline.

      abalone (ab a lo ne). Shellfish, iridescent shell of which is used for inlay, buttons, beads, ornaments. Commonly called ear shell.

      abb. 1. Warp yarn. Term used by weavers. 2. Inferior part of fleece around edge.

      abbé cape (F. a bay). Tiered shoulder-cape. See CAPES.

      abbot cloth. Rough, canvas-like drapery material in basket weave. Usually of cotton. Similar to MONK’S CLOTH.

      abbreviate or abbreviated. Shortened or relatively short.

      abnet (ab net). Long scarf or sash, usually of linen or linen mixture. Worn by Jewish priests.

      abolla (a bahl a). Ancient Roman cloak. See WRAPS.

      abraded yarn. Rayon filament yarns roughened on surface. See YARNS.

      abrasion. The wearing down by friction of parts of the surface of a textile to form a design.

      abrasion resistance. Degree to which a fabric can withstand wear by friction.

      absinthe (ab sinth or F. ab sant). Light yellowish-green shade, color of the liqueur.

      absorbent cotton. Cotton batting without natural oils. Used chiefly for medical purposes. See COTTON.

      academic costume. Characteristic dress worn by faculty, students, and graduates of colleges and universities, and by those on whom honorary degrees have been conferred. Costume varies with rank. Consists of long gown, generally black, with long, full sleeves; sometimes a hood draped across shoulders; and a cap or MORTARBOARD. Color of hood denotes academic degree held by wearer. Costume also worn on official occasions by lawyers, clergy, etc.

      acajou (F. a ka zhoo). French word for mahogany color.

      acca. Medieval fabric made of silk mixed with gold threads. Probably made in Syria and named for Acre, Syrian seaport.

      accent. Emphasis or prominence given to line or decorative color in costume.

      accessory. Article of apparel that completes the costume, such as shoes, gloves, hats, bags, jewelry, neckwear, belts, boutonnières, scarfs; in trade usage, also negligees, corsets, lingerie, etc.

      accollé (ak a lay). Entwined around or encircling the neck; collared; also, joined, touching, or overlapping, especially at the neck. Use of designs on coats-of-arms, shields, etc.

      accordion pleats (pleets). Straight, narrow pleats. See PLEATS.

      accordion-stitch. Machine-knitting stitch providing great elasticity. See STITCHES.

      accroche-coeur (F. a krosh cur). French term meaning little flat curl of hair worn at temple; kiss-curl.

      Acele. Trade name for a brand of rayon. See RAYON.

      aceta. Cellulose acetate rayon which contains fibroin or casein.

      acetate rayon. One of the three types of rayon now manufactured commercially in the U.S.A. See RAYON.

      acid dye. A type of dye used on wool and other animal fibers. Seldom used on cotton or linen fibers, since then a mordant, or substance to act as a binder for the dye, is required.

      acid resistance. Degree to which a fabric can withstand the chemical action of acids.

      acock. Turned up; at an angle; cocked.

      Acrilon. Trade name for a fabric made from acrylic fiber.

      acrobatic shoe. Lightweight shoe with buckskin sole. See SHOES.

      acrylic fiber. A liquid derivative of natural gas and air. When processed it has durability, strength, and good draping quality.

      active sports clothes. Clothes suitable for active participants in sports events. For types, see SPORTS CLOTHES.

      acton. Jacket worn as part of armor. See JACKETS.

      Ada canvas. Square-meshed canvas for needle work. Also called Aida canvas, Java canvas. See CANVAS.

      adamas (add a mass). Very hard precious stone, often a diamond. Used in gem cutting.

      adaptation. Garment similar to an original model, yet having definite changes.

      Admiralty cloth. Melton cloth; so called in British naval slang. See MELTON.

      Adonis wig. Fashionable in first quarter of 18th Century, a wig of fine snow-white hair.

      adonize (add o nize). To dress up, beautify, dandify.

      adorn. To ornament, decorate; to add to the effect.

      adoucir (F. a do sear). To soften, to appear soft.

      aegis (ee jis). Ancient Greek garment made from animal skins. Head of animal hung down from neckline on breast.

      aerated yarn. A type of rayon yarn that has a hollow center which contains inert gas or air. See YARNS.

      afghan (af gan). Soft, wool blanket, usually knitted or crocheted. Used as coverlet or worn as wrap.

      afghan-stitch. Simple crochet stitch which produces plain pattern. Same as TRICOT-STITCH. See STITCHES.

      afternoon dress. Costume for daytime social functions. See DRESS.

      after-ski socks. Socks with soft attached sole, worn as slippers after skiing. See HOSE.

      afterwelt. In women’s hosiery, the intermediate part of a stocking top between the leg and the welt.

      agabanee (ag a bah nee). Silk-embroidered cotton fabric, made especially in Syria.

      agal (ahg ahl). Decorative fillet usually made of two thick woolen cords wound with gold and silver threads. Worn by Arabs over the KAFFIYEH, to hold it on the head.

      agamid (ah gah meed) or aga (ah gah). Strong inner bark of a Philippine plant. Used for making coarse cloth and rope.

      agate (ag et). Striped or cloudy variety of chalcedony, or quartz. Used as ornament on accessories.

      aggrape (a grap). Obsolete type of clasp, buckle, hook and eye. See AGRAFFE.

      aglet (ag let) or aiglet (aig let). Metal sheath or tag at end of a shoe-lace or ribbon tie, to facilitate threading. Much used in 16th and 17th century costume. Later, any ornamental pendant; sometimes a small image. Also written aiguillet. From French word aiguille, meaning needle.

      16th Century Aglets

      agnelin (F. an ya lanh). French word for lambskin having wool left on in dressing.

      Agra gauze. Open-meshed silk gauze, stiffened in finishing.

      agraffe or agrafe (a graf). Metal fastening device, consisting of a lever and an eyelet. Used on early armor and costumes. From early Norman word aggrape, meaning clasp, buckle, or hook and eye, as used on medieval armor. Still in use in 18th century.

      agrandir (F. a granh dear). To enlarge.

      agréments (F. a gray monh). French word for trimmings, ornaments.

      Aida canvas. Square-meshed canvas for needle work. Also called Ada canvas, Java canvas. See CANVAS.

      aigrette or aigret (ai gret). 1. Upright tuft of feathers or plumes of egret, or heron. See FEATHERS. 2. Something resembling feather aigrette, as a cluster of jewels.

      aiguille (ai gweel or F. ai gwee). French word meaning needle.

      aiguille à reprises (F. ah re preez). French word for darning needle.

      aiguille à tricoter (F. ah tree ko tay). French word for knitting needle.

      aiguilette (ai gwi let or F. ai-gwee-yet). Aglet or ornamental tag; also, trimming of looped cords, as on military and naval uniforms.

      aile (F. ale). French word meaning wing.

      ailes de pigeon (F. ale de pee zhonh). Powdered side curls, as formerly worn by men. French term meaning pigeon’s wings.

      ailette (F. ai let). Protective shoulder plate of forged iron or steel. Worn as part of medieval armor. Original form of the epaulet, the wide, ornamented shoulder. Originally tabs standing on either shoulder made of leather or parchment and decorated armorially. Appeared in second half of the 13th century.

      air-conditioned. Term applied to a chemical process that seals the short fuzzy fibers into the yarn and thereby increases porosity.

      airbrushing. Method of applying color, as to fabrics, by air pressure to produce print effect.

      Airfast. Trade-marked name for a process to prevent atmospheric fading of fabrics containing acetate.

      airplane cloth. Firm-textured cloth in plain weave, originally made of unbleached linen for airplane wings. Since World War I, made of cotton in varying weights and colors. Used for dresses, sports and work shirts, and other fashion items.

      airplane luggage cloth. Lightweight fabric coated with pyroxylin, used in making suitcases, trunks, etc.

      à jour or ajour (F. ah zhoor). Drawn work or other open work. French term meaning pierced or showing light through.

      à la (ah lah). French term meaning after, or according to, the; as, à la mode, according to the fashion; à l’anglaise: English fashion; à l’enfant: baby fashion; à l’italienne: Italian fashion; etc.

      alabaster. 1. Fine-grained, translucent mineral substance, used for small statues, lamps, etc. May be white or various delicate tints. 2. Having texture or nearly-white color of alabaster.

      alacha (ah lah chah). Lightweight Oriental fabric of silk or cotton.

      alamode (al a mode). Thin, light-weight, glossy silk fabric. Formerly used for making scarfs, hoods, etc.

      à la mode (F. ah lah mode). French phrase meaning in fashion or according to the fashion.

      alaska. 1. Overshoe. See BOOTS. 2. Yarn made of cotton and wool. See YARNS.

      Alaska sable. Incorrect term for skunk fur. No longer legal in advertising. See FURS.

      Alaska sealskin. Fur of Alaska seals. Usually dyed brown or black. See FURS.

      alb or alba. Long white vestment with long close sleeves, and girdle. Worn by clergy, usually over cassock and amice. Name derived from Latin tunica alba, meaning white tunic, secular garment worn before 9th century.

      albatross. 1. Soft, light-weight, woolen material with slightly creped surface, similar to bunting. In plain or fancy weave, usually in light colors. Named for the bird because fabric resembles its downy breast. Used for negligees, dresses, warm nightgowns, infants’ wear. 2. Cotton fabric similar to woolen albatross, having slight nap on face.

      Albert crepe. Silk and cotton crepe. See CREPES.

      Alençon lace (F. a lonh sonh). Needle-point lace with solid design on net ground. See LACES.

      alépine (F. a lay peen). French word for BOMBAZINE.

      alesan (al a san). Light, creamy brown color, or CAFÉ AU LAIT.

      Algerian stripe. Cream-colored fabric with alternate stripes of rough knotted cotton and of silk, woven in imitation of Moorish cloth.

      algil (al jill). A fiber made into batting form from a chemical filament that does not absorb moisture. Used as a filtering medium and as a substitute for kapok.

      algin (al jin). A product obtained from marine algae, spun into commercial filaments. Used as dressing material, in printing pastes, etc.

      Alice blue. Medium light blue, having very slight greenish cast. Favorite color of Alice Roosevelt (Longworth), worn by her when in the White House.

      alizarin (a liz a rin). A vegetable dye originally made from madder root, now usually obtained synthetically. Used most successfully on wool, sometimes on cotton. Turkey red is an example of the latter.

      alliance (F. al lee ahnce). French word for wedding ring.

      allier (F. a lyay). To match.

      alligator. Skin of the water reptile. See LEATHERS.

      alligator-grained leather. Leather embossed with alligator scale design. See LEATHERS.

      all-in-one. Foundation garment or corselet consisting of girdle and brassière, made with or without a pantie.

      allongé (F. a lonh zhay). French word meaning lengthened, elongated, outstretched.

      allonger (F. a lonh zhay). To lengthen, to make longer.

      all-over. Covering entire surface; also, fabric completely covered with a design, such as lace. See LACES.

      alma. Silk dress fabric in diagonal twill weave. Usually made in black for mourning purposes.

      almuce (al muce). Medieval hood like a cowl. See HOODS.

      alnage (al nij). Formerly, English measurement of cloth by the ell, or 45 inches.

      aloe fiber. Soft hemp-like fiber of fleshy-leaved century or similar plant. Used for cloth, lace, embroidery, etc. Also called bowstring hemp.

      aloe lace. Fragile lace of aloe fibers. See LACES.

      aloe thread embroidery. Embroidery of aloe fibers. See EMBROIDERIES.

      alpaca (al pack a). 1. Hair of the Peruvian alpaca. See WOOL. 2. Smooth, thin, wiry fabric having cotton warp and alpaca or other worsted filling. Similar to and sometimes called mohair and brilliantine. Used for linings, men’s and women’s summer suits. 3. Fabric, usually of cotton and rayon, so called because of wiriness. 4. A rayon crepe, so called because of wiry texture, but not correctly termed alpaca. See CREPE. 5. Knit goods, sweaters, etc. made with yarn containing some alpaca wool.

      alpaca-pile fabric. Coating fabric with cotton back and high alpaca pile, used for men’s greatcoats and women’s teddybear coats, and as lining for men’s topcoats, raincoats, and jackets.

      alpargata (Sp. ahl par gah ta). Coarse, low-priced Spanish shoe. See SHOES.

      alpine hat. Soft felt hat. See HATS.

      Alsatian bow. Loosely knotted, broad, flat bow worn as headdress or as hat trimming. Originally worn by Alsatian peasant women in their headdresses.

      amaranth (am a ranth). Purple tinged with red, so called because like one shade of flower of same name.

      Amazon. Dress fabric with worsted warp and woolen filling, finished to obscure the weave.

      Amazon plume. Ostrich feather curled inwards to conceal the shaft. See FEATHERS.

      amazone or habit d’amazone (F. a bee dam a zone). French term meaning riding-habit; often shortened to amazone.

      amber. 1. Hard, translucent substance, found in the soil. Cloudy amber is yellowish in color; clear amber is a sparkling brown. Used for beads, ornaments, accessories, etc. 2. Yellowish, or brown color of amber.

      ambergris (am ber greece or gris). Waxy substance of white, grayish, yellow, black, or variegated color, found floating in the ocean in certain tropical regions, or obtained from its source, the sperm whale. Used in the manufacture of perfume and formerly also in cooking.

      amener des modes (F. am nay day mode). French expression meaning to bring in fashions.

      American badger. Coarse, long-haired, creamy white fur with black band just below tip. Used for trimmings. See FURS.

      American Broadtail. Trade name for processed baby lamb. See FURS.

      American cloth. In British usage, sturdy enameled cloth—oilcloth, for example. Used in the household; also, for traveling cases, toilet accessories, etc.

      American cotton. Upland cotton of the U.S.A. See COTTON.

      American mink. Brown, durable fur of American wild or ranch-bred mink. See FURS.

      American opossum. Long-haired, fairly durable, gray fur of American opossum. See FURS.

      American sable. Baum marten. Silky, brown, fairly durable fur. See FURS.

      amethyst. 1. Clear purple or bluish-violet stone used in jewelry. 2. Violet shade, having more red than blue.

      Ecclesiastical Amice

      amice (am iss). 1. Rectangular piece of linen worn by clergy as Mass vestment, originally over the head, now about the shoulders. 2. Furred hood. See ALMUCE under HOODS.

      amictus (a mick tus). Toga or any cloak-like outer garment. Worn by ancient Romans.

      amincir (F. a mahn seer). To make thin, look slender.

      Amish costume (ah mish). Plain habit worn by the Amish women of the Mennonites. Consists of plain gathered skirt, basque, and bonnet, usually in dull black and without ornament. All Amish garments are tied on, no modern fasteners of any kind being used.

      amortir (F. a more teer). To fade (col.)

      Amphore line. Silhouette (resembling Greek vase) of skirt rounding over hips, narrowing at hem. Presented by Carven in 1950.

      ampyx. A diadem worn by ancient Greek ladies.

      amulet (am you let). Object, usually small piece of stone, bone, metal, etc., worn by the superstitious as protection against evil or bad luck. Common in earlier days; still worn as ornament in some parts of U. S.

      anadem (an a dem). Garland; chaplet; wreath; fillet. Worn on the head as ornament.

      anaglyph (an a glif). Ornament in low relief, as a cameo. Opposite of INTAGLIO.

      analabos (a nal a bos). A cloak decorated with crosses which is worn by monks of the angelic habit in Eastern Church.

      analav (an a lahv). A kerchief with symbols which is worn by nuns of the Russian church.

      anamite (an a mite). Natural, unbleached, neutral color of twine.

      angel skin. Dull, waxy, smooth, gardenia-like finish given to certain fabrics, such as crepe, lace, or satin. Also called peau d ange.

      angel sleeve. Long, loose, flowing sleeve. See SLEEVES.

      angelus cap. Type of peasant handkerchief cap. See CAPS.

      Angleterre edge or edging (F. ong gla tare). Needle-point edging on braid or cord, made with one line of loops.

      Anglo-Saxon embroidery. Ancient outline embroidery. See EMBROIDERIES.

      Angola yarn. Yarn containing a mixture of cotton and wool. See YARNS.

      Angora: 1. Hair of angora goat. White fleece of long fine fibers. So extremely smooth and soft, it must be combined with other fibers for weaving. 2. Angora Kid. Mohair taken from young angora goats. 3. Angora rabbit hair. Fine silky hair of a special breed of rabbit. Mixed with spun rayon and wool for light and warm novelty fabrics for dresses, sweaters, etc. 4. Angora yarn. Spun in France of the long silver-grey fur of the Angora rabbit. Very soft and will not felt; used for sweaters, jackets, and decorative collars and cuffs. 5. Fine, soft, fuzzy fabric made of Angora wool.

      aniline or anilin (an i lin). Colorless oily compound, used as base of coal-tar dyes.

      aniline dye. Properly, any dye made with the use of aniline. Popularly, a term for any synthetic organic dye (because such dyes were first made from aniline).

      animal fibers. Textile fibers produced from animal substances, as wool, hair, fur, silk.

      ankh cross (angk). A tau or letter T cross with a looped top. Used as a generation symbol in Egyptian art and mythology.

      ankle boot. Boot of ankle height. See BOOTS.

      ankle bracelet strap. Shoe fastening consisting of a buckled strap encircling the ankle.

      ankle length. Length of dress or other garment reaching to anklebone. See LENGTHS.

      anklet. 1. Ornament worn around the ankle. 2. Short hose reaching to ankle.

      Anne Boleyn costume. Costume of 16th century as worn by Anne Boleyn, one of the wives of Henry VIII. See FANCY DRESS.

      annulet (an you let). Small ring, especially used in decoration.

      anorak (ah no rahk). 1. Loose, hooded garment of fabric or fur, worn in arctic regions. 2. Ski jacket adapted from the Eskimo original.

      antelope. 1. Soft leather made from antelope skins. See LEATHERS. 2. Short-haired coat of small brown African deer. See FURS.

      antelope-finish suede. Sueded leather resembling antelope. See LEATHERS.

      antennae. Feather shafts stripped of barbs and curled in imitation of insect feelers. Used as millinery trimming.

      anti-crease. Chemical process of finishing fabric to prevent wrinkling. See CREASE-RESISTANT.

      antimacassar (ant i ma kass er). Covering or tidy, used to protect back, arms, and headrest of sofas, chairs, etc. Originally, to prevent soiling by macassar hair oil, much used during 19th century.

      antique. 1. Of another age; applied to any garment or accessory made in ancient style; as, antique jewelry. 2. Used derisively of a garment that is old-fashioned, antiquated, out of style. 3. Applied to silk woven, printed, or watered with an indistinct design.

      antique lace. Darned bobbin lace. See LACES.

      antique satin. Heavy dull-face satin. See SATINS.

      anti-sag. Term applied to fabric which normally will not stretch or lose its shape.

      anti-twist. Term applied to fabric which ordinarily will not twist out of shape.

      Antwerp pot lace. Rare bobbin lace with pot of flowers in design. See LACES.

      apex. A conical headdress with a pointed spike of olivewood at the top, worn by flamens and by the Salir of Roman antiquity.

      aplatir (F. a pla tear). To flatten.

      Apollo’s knots. Upstanding lacquered loops of hair, tightly braided and twisted into fantastic forms of top knots. 1815–1834. A coiffure later renamed à la giraffe.

      apparel. Clothing of all sorts; also to clothe or attire. Term applied to the apparel industry, which makes ready-to-wear.

      appenzell (ap en tsell). Type of drawn-work embroidery. See EMBROIDERIES.

      application printing. Printing of designs directly on fabric from engraved rollers. Same as DIRECT PRINTING.

      Fabric Appliqué

      appliqué (ap li kay). Decoration laid on and applied to another surface, as band or separate design of petals, leaves, figures, etc. Used on lace, fabric and leather. French word meaning applied or put on.

      appliqué embroidery. Motif or design applied by means of stitches; usually fabric applied to fabric. See EMBROIDERIES.

      appliqué lace. Net ground with applied separate motifs. See LACES.

      appliqué-stitch. Any stitch used in applying pieces to a background. See STITCHES.

      apricot (ai pri cot). Color between red-orange and yellow-orange, like that of ripe apricot fruit.

      apron. 1. Article of dress worn over clothing to protect or adorn it. Extends from waistline or shoulders, and frequently fastens with ties or strings. For utility wear, made of plastic leather, sailcloth, gingham, and the like; for street or dress-up wear, of wool, taffeta, organdy, or similar fabrics, often skirt-length. Late in 16th century, became article of full dress; in colonial times, made of fine lace, worn with formal costumes; late in 18th century, worn almost floor length. 2. Part of shoe covering instep.

      apron check. Gingham with even checks, popular for aprons. See GINGHAMS.

      apron dress. Dress having apron-like skirt, tied at waist and open in back. See DRESSES.

      apron tunic. Long or short open ornamental tunic worn apron-fashion. See TUNIC, 2.

      aquamarine (ak wa ma reen). 1. Variety of beryl used as semi-precious stone. Comes in blue, blue-green, or green color. 2. Clear, light, green-blue color.

      Aqua-Sec. Trademarked fabric finishing process for repelling stains by water, perspiration, etc.

      arabesque (ar a besk). Intricate design showing flowers, foliage, figures, etc., composed of interlaced lines in scroll effect. Usually made with cords, stitchery, or applied and outlined pieces.

      Arabian. Having characteristic features of Arabian dress, general type of which consists of loose, wide trousers, covered by ankle-length robe; loose, coat-like outer garment; square mantle; rich, colorful fabrics, and embroidery; slippers or sandals; kerchief headdress for men; veil for women.

      Arabian embroidery. Elaborate Oriental embroidery. See EMBROIDERIES.

      Arabian lace. Coarse, dark needle-point lace. See LACES.

      Aralac (ar a lack). American name for man-made protein fiber of wool-like texture, made from casein. Used alone or in combination with other fibers for linings, coats, suits, dresses, etc.

      araneum lace (a ray ni um). Same as ANTIQUE LACE. See LACES.

      arc. Any part of the line that is used in forming a circle.

      arcari (ar cah ri). Half-cap of the late 1830’s which sat far back on the head and often tied under the chin with ribbon. Made of lace ruffles, ribbon, and rosebuds.

      arcelet hair do. Meticulously rolled French headdress over pars or arce-lets; 16th century.

      arctic. High, waterproof overshoe. See BOOTS.

      arctic fox. Fur of arctic fox, either white or blue. See FURS.

      arctic wolf. Coarse, durable fur of white wolf. See FURS.

      Ardil. Trade name for protein fiber made from peanuts.

      ardoise (F. ahr dwoise). Slate color.

      argent (F. ahr zhonh). French word for silver.

      Argentan lace (ahr jen tan). Alençon type of lace, bold in design. See LACES.

      argentine (ahr jen teen). Substance of silvery luster made from fish scales. Used in making imitation pearls.

      argentine cloth. Glazed tarlatan or open-weave cheesecloth, glazed to make it dust-proof.

      Argyle plaid (ahr guile). Plaid design of solid blocks or diamonds crossed by a contrasting overplaid. See PLAIDS.

      Aridex. Trade name for water-repellent fabric finish.

      arisard (ar i sard). Tunic-like garment girdled at waistline. Formerly worn by women in Scotland.

      arm band. Band of cloth worn around the arm; especially, band worn on sleeve for mourning or identification purposes.

      Armenian lace. Narrow, scalloped, knotted, needle-made lace. See LACES.

      armet (ahr met). Hinged helmet snugly shaped to the head, closing neatly over chin and neck.

      armhole. Hole in garment for the arm; line on which set-in sleeve is sewn to garment; measurement where arm joins body.

      armil. Obsolete term for bracelet.

      armilausa (ahr mi law sa). Medieval cloak. See WRAPS.

      armlet. 1. Ornamental band worn on upper arm; distinguished from bracelet worn on lower arm. 2. Small, short sleeve. See SLEEVES.

      armoisin (F. ar mwah zanh). French word for sarcenet.

      armor. Covering for the body, usually metal, formerly used as protection in battle.

      armozeen or armozine (ahr mo zeen). Heavy plain corded silk fabric. Used in 16th century and following for dresses and waistcoats; now used chiefly for scholastic and clerical robes. Also spelled armazine, amazeen.

      armscye (arm sigh). Opening for a sleeve; obsolete term for armhole.

      armure (F. ar myour). 1. Stiff dress material woven plain, striped, ribbed, or with small fancy design, sometimes in two colors. Made of silk, wool, cotton, rayon, or combinations of fibers. Used for linings, skirts, suits. From French armour, meaning armor; so called because pattern suggested chain armor. 2. Drapery fabric in Jacquard weave with raised satin figure on rep or twill ground. Made of silk, cotton, wool, rayon, or mixture. 3. Weave.

      armure-laine. Heavy corded or ribbed fabric having silk warp and wool fillings.

      armure satinée (F. sa teen ay). Silk fabric with armure pebbled texture on face, satin back.

      armure weave. Any one of various irregular or pebbly surface effects produced by weaving.

      arras (ar as). 1. Tapestry inwoven with figures and scenes, needle- or loom-made. So called because first made at Arras, France. 2. Type of bobbin lace. See LACES.

      arrasene embroidery (ar a seen). Type of chenille embroidery. See EMBROIDERIES.

      array. To clothe or dress, especially in impressive attire; to adorn. Also, such attire.

      arrêter (F. ar re tay). To fasten.

      arrondir (F. ar ronh dear). To round, shape to a circle.

      Arrowhead

      arrowhead. Satin-stitch made with twist to form arrows as stays on tailored garments at joining of coat collars and lapels; at corners of pockets and pocket laps; at ends of seams, tucks, plaits, and machine stitching.

      arrowhead-stitch. Series of stitches resembling arrowheads. See STITCHES.

      artificial leather. Cotton cloth, treated to imitate leather. See LEATHERS.

      artificial silk. Imitation of silk, made synthetically. Illegal to sell such an imitation in U. S. under name artificial silk.

      artificial straw. A continuous, ribbonlike filament that looks like straw and that is produced usually from viscose rayon.

      art linen. Various plain-woven linens or linen imitations used chiefly for embroidery. See LINENS.

      art needlework. 1. Materials for needlework, such as stamped goods, designs, linens, threads, etc. 2. Store department selling supplies for all types of needlework.

      artois (ahr twah). Long, loose cloak. See WRAPS.

      art silk. Type of finely woven silk on which one paints or embroiders.

      art ticking. Same as regular ticking, but with printed design. See TICKING.

      as. A lock of hair hanging on one side, which was the Roman way of indicating a god in statues and paintings.

      Asbestall. Trade name for a fabric made of asbestos yarns and nylon yarns.

      Asbeston. Trade name for fireproof yarn used for ironing board covers, draperies, curtains.

      Man’s Ascot Tie

      asbestos. Non-inflammable mineral fiber woven into fabrics in which flameproof protection is needed, as for theatre curtains.

      ascot (ass cot). 1. Broad neckscarf, usually double. Tied so that ends come horizontally on each side of knot, then cross diagonally. Worn by men and fastened with scarf-pin. 2. Double scarf that is informally looped under the chin. Worn by men and women. Named for Ascot Heath, in England, the scene of horse races frequented by fashionable English people.

      Assisi embroidery (a see zee). Type of cross-stitch embroidery. See EMBROIDERIES.

      Assyrian curls. The men of this ancient people dressed their hair and beards in elaborate arrangements of tight, flat curls.

      astrakhan or astrachan (ass tra can). 1. Heavy fabric knitted or woven with a deep-pile surface of curled loops to resemble caracul fur. 2. Name formerly used for caracul fur. See FURS.

      asymmetric or asymmetrical. One-sided, not symmetrical or balanced; often, down much more on one side than the other.

      atelier (F. a tell yay). Large dressmaking establishment, particularly one of the famous French dressmakers. French word meaning workroom or studio.

      Atlas. 1. Large wild silk moth of India. 2. Soft rich fabric made in India from the silk of the Atlas moth.

      atmospheric fading. Change of color in certain rayon fabrics due to chemical action of gases in the air. Also called fume fading, gas fading.

      atours (F. a toor). French word meaning dress, apparel, ornaments, etc., worn by women.

      attaché case (F. a ta shay). Brief case or traveling case, sometimes fitted with writing or toilet accessories. Carried by attachés.

      attachments. Sewing-machine appliances for hemming, tucking, quilting, pinking, binding, braiding, etc. Some are called by trade name, Fashion Aids.

      attar. Perfume obtained by distilling flower petals, chiefly rose.

      atténuer (F. at ten oo ai). To make smaller, thinner, to weaken.

      attifet (F. a tee fay). French word meaning: 1. Ornament for head. 2. Small 16th century bonnet having point over forehead. 3. See WIDOW’S PEAK.

      attire. Complete costume or clothing, especially rich, ornamental dress; also, to dress in such clothing.

      auburn (aw bern). Dark copper-brown shade with golden cast; generally used of hair.

      Aubusson-stitch (F. a boo sonh). Vertical canvas stitch; same as REP-STITCH. See STITCHES.

      au courant (F. o coo ranh). French phrase meaning, of the present, up to the moment—hence, fashionable, in vogue.

      au fait (F. o fay). French phrase meaning expert, skilled, thoroughly conversant. Literally, to the fact or act. Incorrectly used for comme il faut, meaning proper, in good form.

      au fond (F. o fonh). French phrase meaning fundamentally, essentially; literally, at the bottom.

      august (aw gust). To turn brown or tan, make sunburned.

      aumônière (F. oh monh yair). A medieval pouch derived from the feminine form of the French word for alms.

      au naturel (F. o na too rel). French phrase meaning in or according to a natural manner or condition; also, in the nude.

      aune (F. own). Old French measure of 45 inches. Used for fabric.

      aureate (aw ree et). 1. Golden or yellow-gold in color. 2. Of or like gold in resplendence.

      auricomous (aw rick amus). Golden-haired; used of anything making the hair golden in color.

      aurulent (aw roo lent). Golden in color.

      Austinized. Trade name for fabric finishing process that includes vat dyeing, Sanforized shrinkage control, high resistance to crocking, pressing, perspiration, sunlight, atmospheric fading.

      Australian opossum. Fairly long, durable fur of the phalanger, shading from light brown underfur to silvery gray on top. See FURS.

      Australian wool. Wool raised in Australia. See WOOLS.

      Austrian shade cloth. Crinkle-striped cotton, silk or rayon fabric woven with alternating groups of slack and tight warp ends. Used chiefly for hotel or store window shades.

      automobile veil. Large protective veil formerly worn by women when motoring. See VEILS.

      autruche (F. oh trooch). Ostrich.

      Ave Maria lace (ah vay ma ree a). Narrow DIEPPE POINT LACE. See LACES.

      Avisco. Trade name for certain products of the American Viscose Corporation which includes rayon, yarn, staple, tow and Vinyon resin yarn.

      aviver (F. a vee vay). To brighten, polish, sharpen.

      awning cloth or stripe. Heavy cotton fabric in plain or twill weave, often woven with yarn-dyed stripes. Used for awnings, lawn umbrellas, etc.

      Ayrshire embroidery (air sher). Small-patterned eyelet type of embroidery. Same as MADEIRA. See EMBROIDERIES.

      azlon (as lon). Proposed generic term to describe all fibers man-made from natural protein base as rayon, includes all cellulose-base fibers.

      azure (azh er). Indeterminate shade of blue, variously applied to color of clear deep-blue sky, of lapis lazuli, etc.; actually, synonym for blue.

      B

      babiche (bah beesh). Thong, cord, or thread made of rawhide, gut, etc. Name derived from American Indian word.

      baboosh (ba boosh) or babouche (F. bah boosh). Heelless slipper of Turkish origin. See SLIPPERS.

      babushka (bah boosh ka). Hood tied under the chin. See HOODS.

      baby. In the fur trade, term used to describe smaller and usually finer and softer skins of a species, not necessarily referring to age of animals. See FURS.

      baby blue. Pastel blue tint traditionally used for babies’ garments.

      baby bonnet. Dainty, lacy bonnet, usually beribboned, for infants. See BONNETS.

      baby bunting. Sleeping bag like large, loose envelope, having attached hood. Worn by infants, especially outdoors.

      baby deer. Rare, short-haired, blue-gray fur of young Alaskan deer. See FURS.

      baby doll shoe or last. Shoe or last having short, wide, rounded toe. See SHOES.

      baby flannel. Either soft cotton or light wool flannel, suitable for infants. See FLANNELS.

      baby lace. Any narrow, dainty lace. See LACES.

      baby Louis heel. Low Louis XV heel. Sometimes as low as one inch. See HEELS.

      Babypads. Trade name for absorbent paper made in imitation of fabric, for use inside infants’ diapers.

      baby pin. Miniature bar pin. See PINS.

      baby pink. Pastel pink traditionally used for babies’ garments.

      baby ribbon. Extremely narrow pastel or white ribbon. See RIBBONS.

      baby sash. Ribbon sash tied with bow at back. See SASHES.

      baby skirt. Little, short, plaited or flared skirt. See SKIRTS.

      Baby Stuart cap. Baby’s close-fitting, shirred cap, with narrow chin band. See CAPS.

      back. The under or wrong side of a fabric; as differentiated from the face.

      back comb. Hair comb worn at back. See COMBS.

      backed. Used of fabric having two-ply or double warp or weft; as, cotton-backed fabric.

      back-filled. Used of fabric with excessive sizing. See FABRIC.

      background. 1. That part of fabric, picture, or photograph which forms a setting for the design. 2. Used of a dress simple enough to set off decorative accessories.

      backing. That which forms back part; especially, back structure, consisting of extra warp, weft, or both, in fabric having more than one kind of warp and weft; also, supporting warp in pile fabric; a support for a flimsy fabric.

      back-stitch. Hand stitch resembling machine-stitch. See STITCHES.

      back-stitch embroidery. Outline embroidery done with back-stitch. See EMBROIDERIES.

      backstrap. 1. Strap at back of handbag for carrying it. Sometimes used as name of bag. See HANDBAGS. 2. Pull strap on shoe or boot.

      back-strap shoe. Sling pump; an open-heeled slipper with no fastening but a strap around the heel. See SLIPPERS.

      badger. Coarse, long-haired, durable fur of the badger. See FURS.

      bag. 1. Sack, pouch, or other container of varying shape and size for carrying articles. See HANDBAGS. 2. (Plural) In England, baggy trousers.

      bagatelle (bag a tell). Trifle; something of no importance.

      baggage. Trunks and heavy luggage of a traveler.

      bagging. Coarse fabric of jute, cotton, etc. used for making bags. See SACKING.

      baggy. Bulging; shapeless; hanging without form; as, baggy sleeves or blouse.

      bagheera (ba gee ra). 1. Fine, uncut pile velvet. Used for evening gowns and wraps. 2. A crepe that simulates the effect is also made, usually of rayon. See VELVETS.

      bag sheeting. Closely woven cotton fabric in even weave used for salt, sugar bags.

      bag sleeve. Sleeve full at top. See SLEEVES.

      bague (F. bahg). French word for ring.

      Baguette-cut Stones

      baguette (F. ba get). Rectangular in shape; as, baguette diamond. French word meaning rod or small stick.

      bag wig. Wig having back hair enclosed in bag. See WIGS.

      baisser (F. beh say). To lower.

      baize (bayz). A coarse, loosely woven fabric, usually of wool, napped to imitate felt and dyed in solid colors, usually green. Used for display case linings, card table covers, etc.

      baju (bah joo). Short, loose, light jacket. See JACKETS.

      Bakelite (bay ka lite). Trade name for synthetic composition. Used for buttons, buckles, household accessories; ornaments for apparel accessories.

      baku or bakou (bah coo). Fine, lightweight straw. See STRAWS.

      bal. 1. Heavy, ankle-high shoe. Short for BALMORAL. See SHOES. 2. French word for ball or dance.

      balandran (ba lan dran) or balandrana (ba lan dran a). Wide medieval wrap. See WRAPS.

      balayeuse (F. bah lah yuz). 1. Ruffle sewn inside bottom of woman’s skirt to protect it. Same as DUST RUFFLE. 2. Sweeping-train. French word meaning sweeper.

      balbriggan (bal brig an). 1. Cotton fabric having fine machine-knit surface, often with fleeced back. Used for underwear, hosiery, sweaters, etc. So called because similar to unbleached hosiery fabric made at Balbriggan, Ireland. 2. The plain tubular knitting characteristic of balbriggan fabric.

      baldric (bawl drick). Belt, band, or sash worn regalia-fashion for decoration or usefulness; formerly to support sword, bugle, etc. Same as BANDOLEER.

      18th Century Baldric

      baleinage (F. ba len ahz). Boning.

      baleine (F. ba len). French word for whalebone.

      baleiné (F. ba len ai). To bone.

      Balenciaga, Cristobal. Originally leading dressmaker of San Sebastian, Spain, until 1937. Then opened in Paris where he was immediately successful. Is now one of the most important couturiers in Paris. His clothes have daring, clean-cut lines and somber colors. He was the first to launch the nipped-in waistline before World War II and was among the first to emphasize the rounded hipline and the dropping shoulder line.

      balerino. Dust ruffle. See BALAYEUSE.

      balibuntal. Variant spelling of BALLI-BUNTL. See STRAWS.

      baline (F. ba leen). 1. Coarse fabric of cotton or wool. Used in packing. 2. Fabric of hemp or jute. Used for stiffening in upholstery.

      Balkan blouse Blouse gathered into a hip band. See BLOUSES.

      ball dress. Elaborate evening gown. See DRESSES.

      ballerina costume. Short, full-skirted BALLET COSTUME. See FANCY DRESS.

      ballerina shoe. Flat-heeled shoe. See SHOES.

      ballet or ballerina dress. Fashion adaptation of costume worn by ballet dancers. See DRESSES.

      ballet costume. Full, usually short skirt on basque bodice. See FANCY DRESS.

      ballet slipper. Light-weight, heelless dancing slipper. See SLIPPERS.

      ballibuntl or ballibuntal or balibuntal (bal i bun tl). Fine, smooth straw. See STRAWS.

      balloon cloth. Fine cotton fabric in close, even weave, originally used for balloons and dirigibles. Bleached for shirts, dyed and printed for dresses, sportswear, sometimes glazed for crisp finish.

      balloon skirt. Voluminous skirt. See SKIRTS.

      balloon sleeve. Very full sleeve, usually in a close-fitting basque. See SLEEVES.

      balloon toe. High, rounded shoe toe of balloon-like appearance.

      ball park blue. Light violet blue color. See COLOR.

      balmacaan (bal ma can). Loose, flaring overcoat. See COATS.

      Balmain, Pierre: Important Parisian couturier who opened his house in 1935. A steady sponsor of slender, supple daytime clothes. The fabric stole with street dress was his innovation. He also does designing for American firms.

      Balmoral (bal mor al). 1. Striped

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