Walks, Tracks and Trails of Victoria

Arrangement of walks by environment

COASTAL WALKS

Thunder Point Coastal Walk

Eureka Trail–Ballarat

Hopkins River & Point Ritchie Beach Walk

Steiglitz Walks

Mahogany Walking Track

Great Ocean Walk

Telegraph Track–Blanket Bay

Ironbark Basin–Point Addis

Surf Coast Walk–Jan Juc to Moggs Creek

Point Symthe Nature Trail

Squeaky Beach & Lilly Pilly Gully

Millers Landing-Vereker Outlook Trail

Telegraph Track to Lighthouse

Oberon Bay–Wilsons Promontory

Wilsons Prom Circuit

Cape Conran Nature Trail

Dunes Walk

Wingan Inlet Nature Trail

Old Coach Road Track

Bucklands Jetty Trail

Mallacoota

The Wilderness Coast Walk

FOREST WALKS

Maits Rest Rainforest Walk

Reids Tramline–Powelltown

Bald Hills Track

Tarra-Bulga Walks

McKenzie River Rainforest Walk

GOLD HISTORY WALKS

Lisles Reef Walk

Parkin’s Reef Walk

The Diggings Trail

Muckleford Forest

Enfield Circuit Walk

Eureka Trail–Ballarat

Bendigo Bushland Trail

Canyon Walk–Bright

Woolshed Falls Historic Walk

Woolshed Track

Walhalla Historic Park Trail

Oriental Claims Walk

HERITAGE WALKS

Historic Shipwreck Trail

Maldon Historic Town Walk

Eureka Trail–Ballarat

Steiglitz Walks

Hepburn Federation Trail

Coliban Main Channel Walking Trail

Heritage Walk–Echuca

Ned Kelly & Police Trail

Chiltern Town Walk

Wallaces Hut–Bogong High Plains

Beechworth Historic Walk

Bataluk Cultural Trail

Point Hicks Lightstation Track

HISTORIC WALKS

Three Lost Children Walk

Bendigo City Walk

Reids Tramline–Powelltown

Walk into History

LAKE WALKS

Bugle Ridge & Nip Nip Tracks

Tower Hill

Victoria Lake Walk

Lake Kerford Walk

Lake Tali Karng

LONG-DISTANCE WALKS & TRAILS

Major Mitchell Trail

The Great South West Walk

The Volcanic Trail

Historic Shipwreck Trail

Great Ocean Walk

Surf Coast Walk–Jan Juc to Moggs Creek

Goldfields Tourist Route

The Great Dividing Trail

Ned Kelly & Police Trail

Circuit Road–Mount Stirling

Australian Alps Walking Track

MALLEE-COUNTRY WALKS

Pink Lakes Tracks

Pink Lakes to Pine Plains

Mournpall and River Tracks

Camel Pad, Lake Mournpall Tracks

Bugle Ridge & Nip Nip Tracks

Desert Walk–Wyperfeld

Lake Brambruk Nature Walk

MOUNTAIN WALKS

Bluff Track–Mount Arapiles

Grampians Day Drive

Wonderland Track–Grampians

Beehive Falls & Briggs Bluff–Grampians

Hollow Mountain–Grampians

Mount Staplyton Track–Grampians

Mount William–Grampians

Mount Abrupt–Grampians

Beeripmo Walk

Pyrenees Endurance Walk

Melville Caves & Lookout Track

The Burchell Trail–Brisbane Ranges

Blowhard Spur Track

Jawbone Creek Track

Razorback & Cathedral Peak Track

The Bluff Walking Track–Howqua Hills

Circuit Road–Mount Stirling

The Monolith–Mount Buffalo

The Cathedral & The Hump

The Big Walk–Mount Buffalo

Tom Kneen Track–Northwest Spur Track

Bungalow Spur Track–Mount Feathertop

Razorback Ridge Track–Mount Feathertop

The Twins–Mount St Bernard

Staircase Spur Track–Mount Bogong

Mount Cope Track–Bogong High Plains

Wilsons Prom Circuit

Mount Howitt Track

Australian Alps Walking Track

Mount Ellery–Errinundra Plateau

Genoa Peak Walk

RAIL TRAILS

Ballarat–Skipton Rail Trail

O’Keefe Rail Trail

No. 7 Trestle Bridge

Murray to the Mountains Rail Trail

Moe to Yallourn Rail Trail

Grand Ridge Rail Trail

Great Southern Rail Trail

Walhalla Goldfields Rail Trail

East Gippsland Rail Trail

Lakes Entrance Discovery Trail

RIVER & CREEK WALKS

Kings Billabong Nature Trails

Mournpall and River Tracks

Swan Hill River Walk

River Track–Little Desert

Stony Creek & Venus Baths–Grampians

Glenelg River Canoe Trail

Anakie Gorge Walk

Tipperary Track

Heritage Walk–Echuca

Barmah Forest Self Drive Track

Goulburn River Path

Mitchell’s Trail–Jamieson

Canyon Walk–Bright

The Wirilda Trail

Moroka Gorge Track

Bryce’s Gorge Track

Mitchell River Gorge Track

Flooding Creek Track

Snowy River Trail

Silver Mine Walking Track

Young’s Creek

SEMI-DESERT WALKS

Black Flat Track–Wyperfeld

Stringybark Nature Walk–Little Desert

TOWNSHIP WALKS

Port Fairy Township Walk

Warrnambool Walks

Maryborough Heritage Trail

Maldon Historic Town Walk

Castlemaine Bushland & Garden Walk

Bendigo Bushland Trail

Bendigo City Walk

Bendigo Creek Linear Trail

Heritage Walk–Echuca

Chiltern Town Walk

Beechworth Historic Walk

VOLCANIC-COUNTRY WALKS

The Volcanic Trail

Mounts Leura and Sugarloaf Walk

Mount Napier Track

Byaduk Caves Track

Crater Rim Nature Walk–Mount Eccles

Tower Hill

WATERFALLS

Beauchamp & Hopetoun Falls

Cumberland & Sheoak Falls

Cora Lynn Cascades Walk

Erskine & Splitters Falls Walk

Currawong Falls Walk

Dicksons Falls Nature Walk

Acknowledgements

I extend my thanks to Parks Victoria and Mr Greg Dunnett of See Australia Guides for permission to draw on material from Victoria’s Great Outdoors and Victoria’s National Parks. I wish to further thank Parks Victoria for their assistance and for supplying photographs reproduced on pages 6, 14 (top), 70 (top), 84, 172 (top) and 238.

I also thank Colin Knowles for photographs on pages 227 (centre), 228, 229, 230; the Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum 75 (centre); and Doug Stone 7, 99, 147 (centre & lower), 155 (top), 246 and 247 (lower).

The following local councils and information centres are thanked for supplying research material, data and advice: Ararat Rural City; City of Ballarat; East Gippsland Shire Council; Glenelg Shire; Indigo Shire Council; Lakes & Wilderness Tourism Association Inc.; Latrobe City Council; Mount Axexander Shire Council; Northern Grampians Shire Council; Port Fairy & Region Visitor Information Centre; Prom Country Information Centre; Shire of Campaspe Tourism & Community Development; Swan Hill Rural City Council Development & Information Centre; and Warrnambool City Council Visitor Information Centre.

Introduction

Of all the Australian states Victoria has possibly the greatest geographical diversity—alps and beaches, deserts and riverlands, wild coasts and inland lakes. Within this diversity is a huge variety of walks, tracks and trails—all within a day’s travelling of Melbourne. Some are long-distance 10-day walks encompassing numerous landscapes while others are only 800 metres long and highlight a special environment.

This book includes over 160 walks, tracks and trails outside of the Melbourne Metropolitan region—the metropolitan examples are for another book.

The material has been organised in loose regions with a west to east, north to south logic. Thus the first walk is at Kings Billabong, Mildura, in the north-west, and the last, The Wilderness Coast Walk, is in east Gippsland. Most of the walks are in national parks, state parks or public land and all are accessible.

Walks, tracks and trails have been selected to suit the average walker and generally have a grading easy to medium. Grading of course is subjective, as what one person finds easy someone else may find harder. Times indicated allow for time to appreciate the walk or trail, take some photographs, admire the flora and fauna and chat with your companions. The times are intended for conservative planning to judge ‘start’ and ‘finish’ times so you are not caught half-way through a walk at dusk.

Medium and long-distance car-touring trails are also included which involve driving to a destination then taking a short walk to further explore the subject matter.

This book does not provide a step-by-step description of the walk or trail but instead concentrates on the reason for taking the walk be it natural history, geology, built environment or history.

The maps are indicators of the walk and in most cases provide adequate information to undertake an enjoyable and successful outing. It is advisable to carry more detailed maps which supply the maximum amount of information, such as contours and shelter, particularly for the High Country. The maps included do not imply public access to all areas shown. It is the walker’s responsibility to seek permission to enter.

The condition of some walks will alter with the seasons or lack of maintenance, can be overgrown or have structural change. If in doubt of track condition consider another walk. Every effort has been made to ensure the information in the book is up-to-date and accurate at the time of printing. Derrick Stone disclaims all liability for all loss, damages, injury, expense and cost incurred by any person relying on information and data in Walks, Tracks & Trails of Victoria.

Always keep an eye on the weather as in many areas, especially the highcountry, weather conditions can change suddenly and dramatically. Plan for the unexpected and be prepared with appropriate additional clothing, food and water. Advise a responsible person of your intentions and inform them when you have returned.

Choose to walk on cooler days in the summer and not on Total Fire Ban days or in very cold weather. The outdoors can provide numerous enjoyable moments but can also be harsh and unforgiving if not respected.

The massive and devastating bushfires of Black Saturday in February 2009 burnt out thousands of hectares of Victorian country including numerous tracks and trails. Many were in the Marysville area and therefore have not been included in this edition. Other walks, particularly at Wilsons Promontory, although not reopened at the time of writing, are likely to be in the following months, and therefore have been included. Part of the bushfire recovery program includes re-establishing the signage and infrastructure of walks, tracks and trails to ensure all enjoy the bush again and marvel at its recovery.

The symbols used in the book represent the following:

art Overnight hike with full camping gear, experienced walkers

art Day hike

art Family walk; does not require special gear or experience, however, children should be under supervision at all times as some walks may contain dangerous situations.

art Drive and walk using 2WD or 4WD vehicle

art Mountain bike or touring bike

art Horseriding

art 4WD vehicle

art Toilets

art Camping (campground or bush camping)

art Fireplace or BBQ. In many national parks fires are no longer allowed and spirit stoves are encouraged.

art Parking

art Kings Billabong Nature Trails

From Melbourne: 560 km north-west

Access: Sunraysia Highway to Ouyen and Calder Highway to Mildura or Calder Freeway/Highway, Melbourne to Mildura

Distance: Three walks: Bird Hide Loop Walk: 3.5 km circuit; Ducks Foot Lagoon Walk: 9.5 km, 2.5 hrs, one-way; combined walk approximately 14 km, 3.5–4 hrs

Conditions: dirt and sand surface, even grade

Rucksack: water, sunscreen, hat, protective clothing, comfortable shoes, camera

Through hard experience, pioneers of 1850–1880s in northern Victoria understood the fickleness of weather patterns when it came to farming. Small tanks and dams stored some water and rivers dried up with regularity. Due to the great drought of 1877–81, governments were finally forced into action. Resultant Water Conservation Acts of 1881 and 1883 allowed local water bodies to finance and construct their own schemes, but something much larger was needed. Alfred Deakin, a young, visionary politician and Victoria’s Minister for Water Supply, was appointed chairman to the Victorian Royal Commission to inquire into the state’s water resources. He made things happen. Deakin travelled to America, Italy, Egypt and India and while in America he visited an irrigation settlement called Ontario, south of Los Angeles. It had been designed and constructed by two Canadians, George and Ben (W.B.) Chaffey.

Deakin invited them to settle in Australia and check out various regions for a potential irrigation scheme. They arrived in Melbourne in 1886, and after initial study, recommended that ‘Mildura’, a rundown sheep station in mallee country, be the site for the irrigation project. Minimal financial support came from government with the Chaffey brothers spending £5 to the government’s £1. Under the terms of the contract the Chaffey brothers were to ‘provide irrigation channels, pumping machinery, roads, bridges and other improvements, to the value of £300 000 over a period of 20 years, on a 250 000 acre site on the left bank of the Murray River’.

Part of the engineering skill of George Chaffey was his choice of site and equipment. The motors were two triple-expansion marine engines, powered by steam and similar to those used in ocean liners, that drove three centrifugal pumps. The design of the pumps was so revolutionary that the manufacturers, Tangyes Ltd of England, would not guarantee them, so Chaffey had his own name placed on the pumps ‘The Chaffey Improved Pumping Plant. Made by Tangyes for the Mildura Irrigation Colony’. These pumps were still working, pumping 1 440 000 gallons per hour, in 1952.

Head out of town to Kings Billabong by driving southeast along Seventh Street onto Cureton Avenue, turn left onto Irymple Avenue then Billabong Road, then follow a dirt road to the Billabong Walks carpark.

Located 16 km upstream from Mildura, the billabong swings around in a 7 km arc, and is a birdwatcher’s delight with Australian pelicans, Australasian grebes, darters, little pied cormorants, black swans, white-faced herons, coots, swamphens and many species of duck usually in great numbers. Parrots, galahs and cockatoos roost in the river red gums along the Murray River.

The billabong ecosystem is basically self-supporting, comprising four classes of water plant. Floating, either free-floating or rooted plants which float on the surface; submerged plants which have most of their bulk under water; emergent plants such as rushes and reeds which live below and above water; and semi-aquatic plants which live on the margins of the billabong. The rich, varied plant growth supports a number of fish species and the still waters act as a nursery for reptiles and fish.

Top: Engine shed and pumphouse, Psyche Bend.

Below: Kings Billabong from Parks Victoria lookout off Cureton Avenue.

Within the reserve there are two dedicated walking tracks at the northern end of Kings Billabong. Bird Hide Loop Walk is a circuit walking track of 3.5 km while Ducks Foot Lagoon Walk is a longer loop of 9.5 km. Both walks begin at the Billabong Walks carpark.

Our suggested walk is longer and at first crosses the embankment near Billabong Walks carpark and heads south along the eastern shore of the billabong. It follows the Bird Hide Loop Walk, passes a bird hide on the way, then continues along old 4WD tracks before joining the Ducks Foot Lagoon Walk. The widest section of Kings Billabong is opposite the bird hide which provides an excellent vantage point for observing large numbers of birds. The signposted track then heads south to include Psyche Bend pump house and boiler shed.

Just past the intersection of Eleventh Street and Cureton Avenue is the signposted and dirt surfaced Psyche Pumps Road leading to the Psyche Bend Pump Station. The Psyche Bend pumps and pump house are the oldest remaining George Chaffey-designed irrigation station in the world, which is still intact.

The pump that sat adjacent to ‘Rio Vista’ in Mildura for many years, was originally taken from the pump house on King’s Billabong. The Sunraysia Steam Preservation Society, together with the First Mildura Irrigation Trust and the Irymple Secondary College, undertook the restoration and preservation of the Chaffey Tangye steam engine and pumps housed in the Psyche Bend Pump Station. The pump house is open for viewing on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons and Sunday mornings.

From the pump house cross the footbridge, then follow the river track (tourist drive) downstream between Ducks Foot Lagoon and the Murray River. The Ducks Foot Lagoon Walk then flanks the side of the lagoon along an old levee bank before passing by the northern edge of the lagoon and a marina then returning to the carpark via Baggs Bridge.

Top: River red gums stand in the swamp at Ducks Foot Lagoon.

Below: Australian pelicans enjoy the sun, Ducks Foot Lagoon.

art Pink Lakes Tracks

From Melbourne: 480 km north-west Access: via Sunraysia Highway to Ouyen then west on Mallee Highway to Linga (west of Ouyen), then north for 11 km on Pink Lakes Road.

Time: Lake Crosbie 3 hrs; Lake Becking 45 mins or 2.5 hrs; Lake Kenyon 4 hrs; Kline Nature walk 2 hrs; and Lake Hardy 1 hr

Conditions: easy grade on earthen tracks. Extreme temperatures in summer, and lack of landmarks make the area potentially dangerous for the ill-equipped and inexperienced. Always carry adequate water and inform a responsible person of plans and route.

Rucksack: water, camera

The Pink Lakes are a series of shallow salt lakes—lakes Crosbie, Becking, Hardy and Kenyon—so named because of their colour during late summer. A red pigment, B-carotene, is secreted from the algae Dunaliella salina that thrives on the highly saline groundwater which seeps into the lakes. The lakes evaporate over summer leaving a layer of concentrated pinkish salt crusts over black mud. This pinkish colour is best seen early or late in the day or when it is cloudy. But don’t try walking on the salt crust as you will soon be in sticky mud.

Pink Lakes were first exploited for commercial salt harvesting in 1916, using the most basic of equipment—shovels and wheelbarrows—then upgraded to horse-drawn scrapers and tip trays. For the next 20 years camel trains with their Afghan cameleers from Broken Hill, carted the salt south to Linga and Underbool. Sometimes 12 teams were operating at one time with up to 20 camels in each team and each camel carrying four bags of salt. In 1935 trucks replaced the camels and new harvesting equipment was introduced. In 1944 Italian internees were employed in harvesting and in 1947 Imperial Chemical Industries took over the leases. For another 19 years the lakes gave up their salt until 1968 when harvesting ceased, first at Lake Becking then at Lake Crosbie. By 1979 salt harvesting was concluded when Pink Lakes State Park was declared. Stockpiles of salt and abandoned equipment remain on the shores of Lake Crosbie and Lake Becking.

Nowadays solitude and peace, animals and birdlife, are the drawcards along with the salt lakes.

Lake Hardy Nature Walk (1 hr)

Start at the information board opposite the site of the former primary school. Head east to the lake shore past a picnic area following the track south along the shoreline all the way.

Highly specialised, salt-tolerant plants are located close to the lake and further up the slopes are stands of mallee woodland. Interspersed are areas of grasslands and saltbush covering the ancient sand dunes. Mallee emu-wrens, with their bright rufous head, blue face and throat and grey-brown to rufous-brown on their back and wings, are usually seen close to their habitat of porcupine grass, and sometimes mallee scrub.

Kline Nature Walk (Lake Kenyon) (2 hrs)

Named after Jim Kline, a local, born and raised at Pink Lakes, the track begins 500 m north of the main campground turnoff then heads through mallee scrub and open grasslands to the south-western shore of Lake Kenyon. Head north passing a lookout point on the way. At the northern tip of the lake the track heads south-west to join with the vehicle track to Lake Becking. Walk south flanking the vehicle track to join with Lake Crosbie on its eastern shore. Follow the track south to your vehicle.

Lake Crosbie Walk (3 hrs)

Lake Crosbie Walk starts about 400 m east of the Lake Crosbie (Main) Campground and heads north flanking the eastern shore of the lake, the largest lake within the group. Near the northern end of the lake there is an information sign, old stockpiles of salt and a collection of abandoned salt harvesting equipment. Salt harvesting stopped here in 1979 when the area was incorporated into a state park. Cross the vehicle track, follow a loop section passing a lookout, then head south back to the campground. Surrounding country is relatively open with some stands of mallee and cypress pine. Emus and kangaroos are seen grazing in the surrounding woodlands at early morning and dusk. The complete route will take about 3 hrs.

Top: Lake Becking shoreline.    Below: Salt crystals at Lake Hardy.

Top: Corduroy log causeway, Lake Becking.

Centre: Salt tolerant plants survive in extreme conditions.

Bottom: Sunset at Lake Hardy.

Lake Becking Walk (45 mins or 2.5 hrs)

Lake Becking Walk starts at Becking Campground then passes an embankment of the now disused tramway line that once carted salt to Linga and Underbool. The tramway was abandoned in the 1930s.

Several endangered species, such as the Millewa skink and black-eared miner, are found in the park. Red-rumped and mallee ringneck parrots, sulphur-crested cockatoos and corellas are relatively common, along with less common Major Mitchell cockatoos, which are also seen. Honeyeaters, finches, pigeons and some birds of prey are present throughout the year while ducks and stilts are seen when more water is present. The park is one of the few regions in Victoria where red kangaroos (the largest living marsupial) can be seen in their natural state. Western grey kangaroos are quite common. Along the shoreline tracks of kangaroos, emus and lizards are easily spotted and identified. Unfortunately the tracks of a feral cat have been seen in the salt-sands of the shoreline.

Head to the north passing one set of salt recovery ruins and after another 600 m are a second set of ruins. From here you can retrace your steps or continue on following the lake right round, until meeting the starting point.

art Pink Lakes to Pine Plains (2WD)

From Melbourne: 480 km north-west

Access: Sunraysia Highway to Ouyen, Mallee Highway to Linga, then Pink Lakes Road to Pink Lakes. Beginning at Pink Lakes head south for 11 km on the gravel-surfaced Pink Lakes Road to Linga. Turn east onto the Mallee Highway (B12) and follow it to Underbool (or travel direct from Pink Lakes to Underbool). From Underbool follow Gunners Track south to Pine Plains.

Distance: approximately 50 km, 1.5 hrs one-way only depending on conditions

Conditions: Underbool to Pink Lakes is a graded gravel road. Gunners Track is loose sand. Tracks on the floodplain are 2WD during dry conditions. Trips to Snowdrift and O’Sullivans Lookout should only be in 4WD. Carry water at all times.

River red gum and black box woodlands extend across the floodplains of Outlet Creek and the shallow, usually dry, lakes. Cypress-pine grow on sand dunes near the lakes while mallee vegetation and grasslands are scattered across the plains. Rolling sand plains support heathlands which include desert banksia, tea-tree, she-oak, herbs and daisies. Wildlife is usually seen all year round as the dry lake beds provide good grazing for emus and western grey kangaroos. Sulphur-crested and Major Mitchell cockatoos, Australian ringneck parrots, galahs, red-rumped parrots, and budgerigars are relatively common and when heavy rain does come waterbirds are attracted to the lakes. Stumpy-tail lizards, goannas and snakes are relatively common.

Previously the area was well known to the local Aboriginal tribes as the route between the Wimmera district and the Murray River. Used by the Wotjobaluk peoples for corroboree grounds, Wirrengren Plain sits in the extension floodplain area of Lake Brambuk, Outlet Creek, Lake Hindmarsh and the Wimmera River, further to the south. However, there must have been a much wetter climatic period in the past as this system received substantial water only three times during the 20th century.

From Underbool head south on Gunners Track for a 7 km drive to the northern boundary of Wyperfeld National Park. The track surface is of compacted sand which can sometimes be loose,

Gunners Track leads visitors past wheatfields and typical mallee country to the northern end of Wyperfeld National Park. The track continues through an area of low and ancient sand dunes that are covered with multi-stemmed mallee eucalypts. Mallee eucalypts with their characteristic spindly trunks and small, tough leathery leaves (commonly called mallee) can withstand drought for long periods and rapidly rejuvenate after fire. Grasslands, saltbush, native cypress-pine, buloke and porcupine grass (called spinifex outside Victoria) are the other dominant plants of the flat, expansive landscape.

Pine Plains, the European name for the same region, was settled in the 1840s and possibly took its name from the native cypress-pine woodlands of the area. It was once freehold property which was incorporated into the national park in 1990. Tracks on the floodplain are 2WD during dry periods, but check with the ranger at Underbool for track conditions, particularly after rain.

Approximately 9 km from the park boundary a detour can be made to Kelly’s Lookout. Turn left onto Mount Jenkins Track, follow it south for 8 km then make a hard turn north driving for another 4 km to the lookout. Return via outward route.

Back at the Gunners Track intersection head south for a further 2 km and turn right onto Wirrengren Plain Track. The track encircles much of Wirrengren Plain and provides access to O’Sullivans Lookout and Snowdrift Picnic Area.

The short track leading to O’Sullivans Lookout is approximately 14 km from Gunners Track intersection. O’Sullivans offers vistas over the surrounding mallee vegetation and the large shallow depression of Wirrengren Plain.

Five kilometres south of O’Sullivans Lookout Track is a ‘Y’ junction. The left fork (Millers Track) leads across the plain to the Lodge while the right fork continues south as Wirrengren Plain Track. After a short distance the track splits into two again—Wirrengren Plain Track and Inner Wirrengren Plain Track. Follow the one that is most used to join again 10 km further on at the southernmost point of the plain.

Depending on winter rainfall, orchids such as spider orchids, azure sun-orchids and other wildflowers; everlastings, desert banksias and poached-eggs daisy, are usually profuse during spring.

Birdlife is varied and rich but not all of the recorded 224 species are seen as many only visit after a wet season when parts of the area are flooded. Grass wrens, quail-thrushes, mallee ringnecks, red-rumped, mulga and regent parrots as well as blue bonnets, fairy-wrens and redthroats are seen much of the time.

Remnants of the pastoral history of Pine Plains are scattered throughout the area. As some of Pine Plains is still grazed under license, please leave gates as you find them. Permission must be obtained from the owners to enter the freehold area within the park, also known as Pine Plains.

If in a 2WD vehicle head north on Wirrengren Plain Track to meet again with Gunners Track.

If in a 4WD vehicle head to Snowdrift. This large bare white sand dune is just off Pine Plains Track and is accessed by 4WD only. From the junction of Red Hill Track head north for 5 km along Pine Plains Track to the Snowdrift Picnic Area where walking tracks lead to the dunes. From Snowdrift retrace your outward route to Wirrengren Plain Track and follow the eastern flank of the plain to meet with Gunners Track and head north, or you can head north-east on Pine Plains Track to the Lodge.

A longer round trip to the Mallee Highway can be made by following Pine Plains Road (Patchewollock Road) east to Baring then Patchewollock Road to Patchewollock.

Facing page: Wildflowers, in season, cover vast areas between the stands of mallee vegetation.

Above: There is nothing quite like the large sunsets at Pine Plains.

art Mournpall and River Tracks–Hattah

From Melbourne: 580 km north-west

Access: Sunraysia Highway north of Ouyen, turn east at Hattah and then along Hattah-Robinvale Road for 4 km to turnoff to Hattah-Kulkyne Visitor Centre within the national park. Follow Mournpall Track for 10 km to Mournpall Campground.

Distance: 70 km, all day

Conditions: dirt, sand, bush tracks, even easy grade

Rucksack: water, food, protective clothing, camera. Summer heat is harsh, winter nights are cold.

During good floods within Hattah-Kulkyne National Park numerous lakes of various sizes are linked to the Murray River by Chalka Creek, a creek with two exits from the Murray. One exit flows almost due west to feed the second largest lake, Lake Lockie and other southern lakes while the northern exit of Chalka Creek, a further 40 km downstream, flows south-west to the northern lakes of Mournpall, Konardin and Yerang.

Lake Mournpall is the largest of the lakes and with the other lakes provides a seasonal oasis near the semi-desert country of the eastern mallee.

Vehicle tracks criss-cross the park and are suitable for walking or driving. Mournpall Track, including a couple of other tracks, begins a 70 km route near the park entrance, follows the Mournpall Track northwards, turns right into Raak Track, and then turns south and follows River Track to the Murray Valley Highway. Mournpall, Raak and River tracks are well formed but can be sandy in places, and impassible after rain. Check with the ranger for track conditions.

Mournpall Track provides access to the northern sections of Hattah-Kulkyne National Park. Lake Mournpall is the location of the second camping area in the park. Sometimes after prolonged drought these lakes can dry up completely, or a least recede so much that waterbirds disperse to other areas.

Beginning at Lake Hattah Visitor Centre, Mournpall Track heads north-east to the southern end of Lake Mournpall; then west around the lake to the beginning of Warepil Lookout Loop Walk (7.5 km, 3 hrs return and a steady climb to a sand dune ridge surrounded by mallee vegetation). Lake Mournpall is the largest in the Chalka Creek system and in good seasons supports a wide variety of waterbirds. After passing Mournpall Campground the track heads away from the lake then skirts Lake Konardin to intersect with Boolungal Track (from the south-east).

Continue straight on and shortly after the intersection the track enters mallee vegetation, skirts the edge of Lake Woterap, then still heading in a north-easterly direction meets with Bitterang Track. After approximately 3.5 km further on Mournpall Track meets with Raak Track.

Top: Sand dune country near Camel Pad Track and Mournpall Track intersection.    Bottom: River red gums, Lake Mournpall.

Here you can retrace your route back to the start.

To continue, head east along the relatively short Raak Track, passing the electricity transmission line, to Chalka Creek. Head north at the creek, to meet with River Track and follow it south to the Murray River. Flanking the Murray and passing by massive river red gums, River Track continues south, passing Firemans and Jinkers bends, crosses over the southern section of Chalka Creek, then heads away from the river to join with Hattah-Robinvale Road. Turn west and head back to Hattah.

art Camel Pad, Lake Mournpall Tracks–Hattah

From Melbourne: 580 km north-west

Access: Sunraysia Highway north of Ouyen to Hattah

Distance: Camel Pad: 10 km, 3.5 hrs one-way; Lake Mournpall Loop Walking Track: 9.5 km 4.5 hrs circuit

Conditions: dirt and sand surface relatively even grade

Rucksack: water (note that summer temperatures can be 40°C+ and nights bitterly cold) sunscreen, hat, protective clothing, comfortable shoes (sandals and thongs are not advised), camera. Advise a responsible person of the time you expect to begin and finish.

Camel Pad Walking Track follows the route taken by Afghan cameleers and their camel teams when carting block salt between Spectacle Lake (to the west of Hattah Store) and the riverboats on the Murray River. During the 1880–1920s camels were used extensively throughout outback Australia to transport all sorts of goods as they were suitable and successful in the semi-desert conditions. Camels cost little to feed, could go for days without water, didn’t require shoeing, and an Afghan cameleer’s pay was 75% cheaper than a European teamster—no wonder they were in demand. Most Afghans were brought to Australia on a three-year contract, and quickly gained a reputation for speed and reliability. They reigned supreme until replaced by motor transport during the 1920s. Camel Pad route was used for two-way traffic, salt went east, water and food went west

Top: Woodlands Gate, Camel Pad Track.

Camel Pad Walking Track begins on the Calder Highway a few hundred metres north of the Hattah Store and just behind the electricity supply substation on the eastern side of the highway.

Follow the track markers to the fire break and continue for 800 m; pass a salt pan, and join with a section of the Old Calder Highway. Head north for 400 m along the old highway to Woodlands Gate. Orange directional markers are on the northern side of roadside posts. The protective fence was erected to slow the movement of red and western grey kangaroos from the refuge of the national park into adjacent farmlands. Crossing the kangaroo fence by means of a stile, Camel Pad Track then intersects with Woodlands Walk, which originates at the Visitor Centre at Lake Hattah.

Much of the early section of Camel Pad Track is slightly undulating and passes through mallee vegetation—consisting of stunted eucalyptus trees, less than 6 m high, with numerous spindly trunks growing from a large lignotuber or root. This vegetation is well suited to the dry and infertile sandy soils in this region.

Remain on the track at all times as it is very easy to lose your sense of direction in the relatively uniform vegetation, especially on overcast days. From the Woodlands Walk track junction Camel Pad Track swings north and meets again with the kangaroo fence which it flanks for 400 m, the track then swings almost due east and heads another 400 m to Mournpall Track, a vehicle roadway. From the signposted ‘T’ intersection follow Mournpall Track to Mournpall campground.

As the track gets closer to the lake the vegetation changes from open woodland with native pines and black box to the bulky and larger river red gums. The chance of seeing kangaroos during the day is not very high as they are probably resting and watching you from the coolness of a dust wallow in the adjacent scrub, whereas in early evening the chances increase dramatically.

Bird life is much more conspicuous. Noisy miners, white-winged choughs, rufous-crowned emu-wrens and striated grasswrens favour the mallee habitat, while countless galahs, mulga, regent and ringneck parrots, and sulphur-crested cockatoos gravitate to the larger trees near the water and numerous waterbirds patrol the lake’s edge.

Camel Pad Track finishes at Lake Mournpall.

The cameleer’s route can be followed (by vehicle) to the Murray River near Tarpaulin Island via the Mournpall Track.

Typical mallee scrub near Woodlands Gate, Camel Pad Track.

Lake Mournpall Loop Walking Track

Distance: 9.5 km, 4.5 hrs circuit

Conditions: dirt, sand, bush tracks, even easy grade

Start near the information shelter at Mournpall Campground and immediately head west through buloke, blackbox and stands of cypress-pine and mallee. After 100 m, and at the junction with Warepil Lookout Track, swing to the north-east, pass Konardin Track intersection and 3.4 km later on meet again with Mournpall (vehicle) Track. The track then skirts the northern edge of Lake Konardin as it passes through flood-plain and wetland vegetation.

At the edge of Lake Konardin the track flanks a beach before heading south to Lake Yelwell, then a sharp turn is made to the west that heads across to the northern shore of Lake Mournpall and back to the campground. This section is about 5.7 km.

Late afternoon is a good time for walking as animal and birdlife is beginning to stir. Birds seen in the vicinity of the lakes are: emus, brown goshawks, Australian hobbies, brown falcons, crested pigeons, mulga parrots, galahs, rainbow bee-eaters (in summer), white-fronted chats, yellow-throated miners and grey butcherbirds. The lake attracts waterbirds such as Australian pelicans, great crested and hoary-headed grebes, cormorants, herons and egrets, spoonbills, ducks and swamphens.

Other walks are:

Hattah Nature Walk, 1.2 km 40 mins, begins from the carpark near the park entrance;

Warepil Lookout Walk, 600 m, 30 mins, begins at the carpark on the Old Calder Highway 4 km north of park entrance road or a longer walk from Lake Mournpall campground;

Woodlands Walk, 2.5 km 1 hr, begins at Information Centre carpark and intersects with Camel Pad Track.

art Bugle Ridge & Nip Nip Tracks–Hattah

From Melbourne: 580 km north-west

Access: Sunraysia Highway north of Ouyen, turn east at Hattah and then along Hattah-Robinvale Road for 4 km to turnoff to Hattah-Kulkyne Visitor Centre. Follow signs to Lake Hattah campground.

Distance: 10 km, 5 hrs return

Conditions: dirt, sand, bush tracks, even grade, easy

Rucksack: water, food, protective clothing, camera. Summer heat is harsh, winter nights are cold.

Surrounding lakes Hattah, Tullamook, Marramook, Brockie, Bulla, Arawak and Nip Nip are river red gums. Black box are seen further away from the water; cypress-pine and buloke dominate the low ancient sand dunes, while mallee dominates the more recent infertile sand dunes.

Wildlife includes red and western grey kangaroos, possums and echidnas. But it is the birdlife that makes the park special. Over 200 species have been recorded. On the waters of the lakes can be seen: black swans; Australian pelicans; great-crested, hoary-headed and Australian grebes; darters; great, little black and little pied cormorants; maned geese; chestnut teals; hardheads; purple swamphens; black-winged stilts; black and mountain ducks. The lake margins are home to: white egrets; white-faced and white-necked herons; royal and yellow-billed spoonbills; white and straw-necked ibis; and birds of prey such as swamp and spotted harriers and sometimes the white-breasted sea-eagle. Wedge-tailed eagles are also sighted.

The gnarled river red gums with their many nesting hollows support countless galahs; regent, ringneck and mulga parrots; and sulphur-crested and pink cockatoos. Rufous-crowned emu-wrens and striated grasswrens are found in the grasslands. Best viewing times for the birds and animals are early mornings and at dusk.

The route heads north from the Hattah campground on a 4WD track, over a weir, around the north of Lake Hattah, then passes east over Bugle Ridge and the northern shores of Lake Bulla and Lake Brockie (about 3 km from the start). Here you can take a short cut south on 4WD Brockie Track, flanking the eastern edge of Lake Brockie, to meet Nip Nip Track heading in an east-west direction. Or by following the longer route, you swing slightly to the northeast then head across to Lake Tullamook (which is usually dry), around its edge, then south onto 4WD Nip Nip Track, skirting Lake Boich. Here you are in open sandy country where buloke vegetation is quite common.

The track now continues in a westerly direction and is intersected by two tracks, the 4WD Brockie Track from the north and a track heading south. An area of black soil flood plains is crossed before heading back into sandy country and skirting the southern end of Lake Arawak. Cross the Hattah Nature Trail continuing west until you meet the south-eastern shore of Lake Hattah and follow it to the campground.

Top: An echidna about to bury itself in the sand.

art Desert Walk–Wyperfeld

From Melbourne: 450 km north-west

Access: From Hopetoun travel west along the Hopetoun-Yaapeet Road then north along Park Road.

Distance: 6 km, 2.5 hrs return

Conditions: limited water at camping areas. Harsh summer heat and cold winter nights.

Rucksack: always carry water when walking, protective clothing, camera.

The loop walk is on a sandy track through stands of mallee with open areas of porcupine grass, heaths and herbs. For those with limited time this walk is an ideal way to experience a mallee environment.

Start at Nine Mile Square Track carpark, about 3 km from the Wyperfeld National Park entrance or 4.5 km from Wonga Campground. From the Entrance Road turn onto Frews Plain Track following it to the start of the Desert Walk. It is a loop track of 6 km that takes about 2.5 hrs. The track is undulating in parts with a number of vantage points on top of ancient sand dunes and sand ridges. Orange triangles mark the Desert Walk.

There are good vistas over the plains of Outlet Creek to the south and across the west to the flat, wide expanses of the Big Desert. It is reported that the usually dry bed of Outlet Creek was a main route used by Aborigines