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    A Guide to Perfume Production - A Selection of Vintage Articles on the Methods and Ingredients of Perfumery
    A Guide to Perfume Production - A Selection of Vintage Articles on the Methods and Ingredients of Perfumery
    A Guide to Perfume Production - A Selection of Vintage Articles on the Methods and Ingredients of Perfumery
    Ebook110 pages1 hour

    A Guide to Perfume Production - A Selection of Vintage Articles on the Methods and Ingredients of Perfumery

    By Read Books Ltd.

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    About this ebook

    This book contains classic material dating back to the 1900s and before. The content has been carefully selected for its interest and relevance to a modern audience. Carefully selecting the best articles from our collection we have compiled a series of historical and informative publications on the subject of model engineering. Each publication has been professionally curated and includes all details on the original source material. This particular instalment, "A Guide to Perfume Production" contains information on the methods and ingredients of perfume manufacturing. It is intended to illustrate aspects of perfume production and serves as a guide for anyone wishing to obtain a general knowledge of the subject and understand the field in its historical context. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateMay 31, 2013
    ISBN9781473390775
    A Guide to Perfume Production - A Selection of Vintage Articles on the Methods and Ingredients of Perfumery

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    • 5/5
      This book is a gem if you are looking for detailed and delicate extraction methods as well.

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    A Guide to Perfume Production - A Selection of Vintage Articles on the Methods and Ingredients of Perfumery - Read Books Ltd.

    PERFUMES

    From the Petal to the Shelf

    But earthlier happy is the rose distill’d

    Than that which withering on the virgin thorn

    Grows, lives, and dies in single blessedness.

    WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE

    THE quest for new and more efficient means by which to gather odorous oils from flower and plant is as old as the recorded history of man. Crude apparatus reminiscent of the modern distillation equipment is found roughly drawn in our inheritance of Egyptian culture, and even the treatment of petals with fats had its forerunner in ancient times.

    There are today five major methods of performing this function. They differ from each other not only in mode of operation, but in applicability to the various types of plant life, in cost of producing the oils, in yields obtained, and in the types of oils produced.

    Least expensive and probably oldest of the five methods is steam distillation. To understand this process, let us briefly review the theory on which it is based.

    All substances can exist in three different states or phases; that is, in the form of a solid, a liquid, and a gas. The phase of a substance is dependent upon the temperature and the pressure, and as we are most familiar with materials at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, we generally speak of them as being solids, liquids, or gases, overlooking the ease with which some of them can pass from one state to another.

    By applying heat to a solid we can usually convert it into a liquid, and then by reversing the process we can cool the liquid and it will solidify again. In the same way, if we heat a liquid, we can usually bring it to a point where it will start to vaporize; this process is called evaporation, and the temperature at which it occurs is known as the boiling point. At this point the liquid will change into a vapor, or a gas, and then the vapor can be cooled to a temperature below the boiling point, and it liquefies again. This last process is called condensation.

    This is the way most, though not all, substances behave. Some chemicals, on the other hand, can pass directly from the solid to the gaseous state; this is called sublimation. Many liquids, when heated, will not vaporize, but break up or decompose.

    Now, if a liquid substance is placed in a container, it exerts a pressure on the walls of the container in which it is kept and on the air above it. This internal pressure, or vapor pressure, as it is called, increases with the application of heat. When the vapor pressure has reached a point where it is equal to or greater than the pressure from the atmosphere that is seeking to hold it down, then the liquid will begin to vaporize.

    In distillation, the substance, upon vaporizing, seeks an outlet. Proceeding through the only available outlet, it is cooled and again liquefies. This condensation is usually hastened by passing cold water through a jacket around the condenser. The collected liquid is known as the distillate, and the material remaining behind, whose boiling point has not yet been reached, is known as the residue.

    Steam distillation represents an important modification of this process. When certain substances are boiled in the presence of water, or with steam being introduced into the receptacle, the heated water generates an internal pressure. When the pressure of the water and that of the substance being boiled with it become equal to or greater than the pressure of the atmosphere, the mixture of water and the second material will boil. The other substance therefore no longer requires the same amount of heat to reach a boiling point as would be necessary without water, because the vapor pressure from the water takes care of most of the pressure from the air.

    This simultaneous vaporization occurs in a fixed ratio. If at a given temperature the vapor pressure of the substance is one-tenth that of the atmosphere, then the vapors will consist of nine-tenths of steam and one-tenth of the second substance, by volume.

    This mixture of the vapors proceeds together to a condenser, where the two substances are liquefied and drop into a receptacle where they are collected.

    Distillation is carried out in a still, usually consisting of an enormous pot or kettle, with a tightly fastened cover. In the cover is an opening connected to a tube, which leads the vapors to a condenser. The latter generally consists of a coil, arranged in a jacket or tank. Cold water flows into the jacket at the bottom and is forced out at the top.

    In the production of essential oils, the plant is placed in the still, which is usually made of copper. Water is introduced into the still, or in more modern equipment steam is added directly, and the heat of the water or steam breaks open the cells in which the essential oils are imprisoned. The simultaneous vaporization and condensation then take place.

    The final stage of this distillation is a simple separation. Oil and water are immiscible. The water, usually the heavier, settles to the bottom, is carefully drained off, and the oil remains.

    Indeed, one might think, a simple process, but there are many difficulties. For one thing, the heat of the steam can bring about many changes in the oil. Water itself reacts with large numbers of organic chemicals; such a reaction is called hydrolysis. Ethyl acetate, for instance, a sweet and perfumy substance, can be split up to form ethyl alcohol and acetic acid, and neither by itself nor a mixture of both has an odor suggesting the original compound.

    Another disadvantage of steam distillation is found in that some of the components of the essential oils may be rather soluble in hot water. By and large, organic chemicals are not water-soluble, but there are exceptions, particularly among compounds of lower molecular weight and the alcohols. Thus, some of the phenyl ethyl alcohol, with its definite rosy note that contributes so much to any rose perfume, is lost when oil of rose is produced by steam distillation. Most of this product leaves the oil and goes into the water; the water, in fact, can be sold as a mild-scented cologne, known as rose water.

    On the credit side of the ledger for distillation as a method of producing volatile oils is its economy. It gives oils of

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