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    Shoe Design and Fashion - or The American Footware Designer
    Shoe Design and Fashion - or The American Footware Designer
    Shoe Design and Fashion - or The American Footware Designer
    Ebook335 pages1 hour

    Shoe Design and Fashion - or The American Footware Designer

    By Louis Kessler

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    About this ebook

    Originally published in 1918. The well illustrated contents deal with every aspect of the design and manufacture of footwear. Contents include: Anatomy of the Foot - Womens Oxfords - High Boots - Shoe Variations - Mens Patterns - Explanatory Charts - Measurements - Designing - Fancy Stitchings - Styles - Evolution of Shoe Styles - Manufacture etc. Many of the earliest fashion books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing many of these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateMay 31, 2013
    ISBN9781473385764
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      Book preview

      Shoe Design and Fashion - or The American Footware Designer - Louis Kessler

      of.

      Chapter One

      IT is our desire in publishing this book to make it so simple, explicit and complete that it can be thoroughly understood and the knowledge it contains be so easily assimilated and put to practical use, that it can be mastered by the entire stranger to the shoe industry as well as the most experienced artisan.

      Books and schools and the inventive ability of many men have from time to time, evolved improved methods for obtaining correct boot and shoe patterns, but the large number of complaints about badly fitting uppers in many shoe factories, as published in many shoe trade journals, indicates that a uniform system of designing perfectly fitting patterns is not universal, and such systems as are in use are not giving the desired results which can only be obtianed by the Keesler System of mathematical designing.

      We will now proceed to explain, step by step, how this system can be practically applied in producing properly proportioned patterns that fit lasts, as far as the last is to be fitted, and above the last the ankle and the leg, and accomplish these results in a rapid manner.

      The details are founded upon the actual measurements of the foot and corresponding measures transferred to the last in the same relative positions.

      The measurement of the foot is absolutely necessary in these instructions to meet the requirements of the custom to measure trade, or retailers sending measures to factories to make custom special orders, but the regular factory work can begin on the average last, instead of measuring a foot, and applying average details for proper proportions.

      THE ANATOMY OF THE FOOT

      Enough attention must be given to this subject that the designer may always bear in mind the relative proportions of each part, especially those parts that in general practice are the measuring points, such as ball, waist, instep, heel, ankle, leg and length of foot with the relative location in that length for the taking of the girth measurements.

      The human foot consists of a certain number of bones that are joined together by ligaments and padded over with muscles of various shapes, working one upon another in such a co-ordinating way that to restrict the movement of anyone of them interferes with the natural and free locomotion of the body.

      Not only does the cramping of the foot interfere with natural, graceful walking, but the continued pressure of poorly fitting and made shoes is the cause of more nervous and other physical disorders than the human race ever dreams of.

      The bones of the foot, by their form and co-ordination, able to carry the weight of the body, are divided into three classes—

      First:—The toes.

      Second:—The center.

      Third:—The heel joints.

      The foot consists usually of twenty-six bones, but additionally there are two pea-shaped bones, (the so-called Sesamoid) under the head of the third bone. They do not exist in every foot, but including them there are twenty-eight bones.

      Of these twenty-six bones, fourteen belong to the toes, five to the center of the foot and seven to the heel joint.

      The four small toes contain three bones each, while the large toe has only two.

      DIAGRAM NO. 1

      In the diagram No. 1—A is the toes, B the center, and C the heel joints.

      The application of a geometrical system for designing footwear patterns that should fit the foot in the many changes of form that is induced by the foot being elevated different degrees at the heel, while the ball of the foot is on a level with the floor, was first thought out by Robert Knofel, of Germany, who was a master shoemaker, and who declared in the first edition of his book that he did not regard his system as perfect, but comprehended the probability of its being improved upon by later investigators.

      We feel that by the use of the 45 degree and 90 degree rectangle triangle designing system in conjunction with the actual measurements, and the Kessler curve guide instrument for footwear patterns, the thought of Robert Knofel, when he wrote the following words, The shoemakers of the future will improve the Geometrical Cutting and place it, perhaps, on a more perfect and practical basis, has been realized.

      This system produces all essential measurements and forms in footwear designing, accurately as to measure, graceful as to curves, and because mathematically positive in its action in conforming to measurements, secures results very rapidly.

      Anyone considering the arrangement of the bones as shown in diagram No. 2 can imagine how much the form of the foot and ankle would change as the heel is raised above the horizontal line, while the sole at the ball or tread is not elevated, and the direction of the leg remains perpendicular. But the system follows the different elevations of the heel accurately and plainly.

      In taking measures of the feet and aiming to transfer the same measures to a last, it is not always possible to place them in the same relative positions, unless a definite system is followed.

      DIAGRAM NO. 2

      The lasts being always longer than the feet they are intended to fit, a different percentage of length is required to indicate the proper position on a last to duplicate a girth measure of a foot at the instep or ball, or other parts, for if the instep of a foot is measured at fifty-six per cent of its length, an average last would require to be measured at fifty-two per cent of its length to duplicate the same point of measurement as taken on the foot; but the Kessler system of measuring applies equally to feet and lasts, by definite measurements from a certain point, regardless of the varying lengths of lasts over the length of the feet.

      By studying Diagram No. 2 it is easy to understand that an additional length at the toe that might be allowed in order to favor a certain style toe last, should not interfere by having the girth measures of foot pass over a different bone or a different part of a bone. When these bones are covered the following directions are proper for locating the measuring points in a human foot.

      First:—Measure the length of the foot with a size stick, from extreme curve at the heel to the end of the most forward toe, which is usually the big toe, but not always, as sometimes the toe next to the big toe is the greatest distance from the heel.

      Second:—Measure the ball. Place the tape measure on the base of the little toe and pass it over the foot back of the bunion location and towards the heel.

      Third:—Measure instep. Find the extreme point of convexity on the instep, the bone being easy to find by feeling for it—and pass the measure strap under the concavity of the arch, the shortest way around by test.

      Fourth:—Heel: Pass tape from extreme point of heel around curve between the instep and ankle, by shortest way around by test.

      Fifth:—Ankle: Pass the measure strap around the smallest girth above the ankle bone.

      Sixth:—Top: This measure is taken two and one-half inches above the ankle measure, for women’s boots, six inches high.

      Seventh:—Calf: Measure around the fullest girth of the leg. This measurement is used only for very high boots or leggings.

      Eighth:—Top: This measurement is only used for extra high boots or leggings, measure around the leg, two inches under the knee in front, and one inch under the knee in back.

      Chapter Two

      WE will now proceed to explain to the reader what we mean when we say Mathematically Perfect Model, and why the Kessler System is the only system of last modelling and pattern designing that will produce an artistically perfect fitting pattern for foot or last with the minimum amount of labor and the maximum amount of satisfaction.

      Diagram No. 3 shows outlines on a standard pattern embracing several styles of footwear. Each line, straight or curved, being formed on the basis of a last to measure, and marked positively by a definite rule with the markers No. 4 and No. 5. No. 4 for all the straight lines and No. 5 for all the curved lines in accordance with a clearly defined list of guiding directions for each part of the various styles given and other designs desired.

      In Diagram No. 3 we give only a few designs to familiarize the eye with the various lines and curves and will be better understood after the reader has progressed somewhat further with the system. Later illustrations will treat button boots and all other popular styles of footwear by the same system of rapidly getting the desired results as to style and correct fitting of uppers on the lasts the patterns are planned for. But in order to make the system very easy to remember and practice, the details will be illustrated in very simple steps. Each point will be numbered or lettered with corresponding numbers or letters on the guide markers Nos. 4 and 5.

      DIAGRAM NO. 3

      The first outline of the standard that will embody the requirements of the last is the foundation of a perfect fitting pattern.

      The details of parts into which it is cut for style is the second consideration.

      So the first step in detail will refer to getting the outline as a whole, then dividing the outline into different parts, as vamps, foxings, quarters, button flies, fly linings—linings, top bands come later. Then the interior details of uppers so often complained about will be explained to obtain good fitting linings and trimmings.

      DIAGRAM NO. 4

      All details are given by positive measurements and lines produced by guide markers that give exact results in all the minute details essential in the inside or lining of uppers, and following those details with specific instructions in regard to the details, step by step, in fitting the uppers, or the order in which the different parts are put together to avoid disturbance of the proper draft of the upper when it reaches the laster.

      We give the following detailed explanation of Diagram No. 4 for the benefit of those who are not familiar with a right angle triangle as well as to familiarize the reader with the positions called for in securing results on the diagrams.

      These positions will be designated hereafter in all the explanations by the various letters on marker. Students should learn thoroughly the letters stamped upon the triangle.

      A right angle triangle is a three-sided figure.

      The base or ground line is the line between points B and C of triangle represented by the letter X.

      The perpendicular or vertical line is the line between the points B and C of the triangle represented by the letter Y.

      The hypotenuse of diagonal line is the line between points C and A of triangle represented by the letter Z.

      The angle of the lines X and Y is equal to ninety degrees.

      The angle of the lines Y and Z is equal to forty-five degrees.

      The angle of the lines Z and X

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