The Bakeries of Dublin
Derived from the Irish term for “black pool” (dubhlinn), Dublin, Ireland, has been a home to the Irish people for more than a millennium. Even with its ancient pedigree, it’s a city always quickening with the heartbeat of something new. Medieval castles and Gothic cathedrals share space with international restaurants, sleek hotels, and modern architectural marvels like the Spire of Dublin (Monument of Light), a 390-foot-high needle that pierces the moody blue sky. Within this cultural collage of past and future, local bakeries have been popping up that break the mold on what Irish baking truly means. Alongside the traditional scones and soda bread, travelers can now find sourdough, pâtisserie, and challah claiming a place on the breadboard. With every visit to one of the following bakeries, you’ll find that the baking scene in Dublin is much like the city itself: innovation blossoming from heritage.
BREAD 41
41 Pearse St., Dublin 2
At the artisan Bread 41, you’re immediately confronted with a hearth-style brick furnace, give way to croissants, morning buns, and sausage rolls. Of particular fame is their toothsome Old-World sourdough beloved by devout customers. “It’s extremely simple and not too sour. We let the customers push us in the direction they want, and they have a massive hunger for bread, real bread,” says Eoin Cluskey, owner and head baker. In the back, the emporium continues with a massive flour mill and wall-to-wall shelves of pickled and fermented ingredients, from house-made kimchi to preserved lemons. This hidden annex has become Eoin and his fellow bakers’ workshop for creative experimentation on all things dough and fermentation. One genius creation to come from all this work is their in-house butter. “It all comes back to the butter,” Eoin says when explaining the success behind their laminated pastries. “We culture our butter, which means we add buttermilk back to the churned butter. And our Irish dairy is second to none.” It’s exactly what’d you’d expect from the sourdough pioneer of Dublin, where “from scratch” is taken to the extremes. In addition to his baked goods, Eoin teaches sourdough workshops, paying forward some of the knowledge he gained as a child. “The way I was brought up, if you can listen, you can learn. My nan was a baker, and I grew up around it and it was wonderful. Now, I look to the new bakers,” Eoin says.
