Fusion Flashback

I’VE BEEN TRYING TO GET MY head around Flora Fauna for weeks now. The menu is all over the place — elote cakes here, jerk pork shank fried rice there — and the website name-checks more countries than a Eurailing college junior. The loftlike space, most recently home to Bohemian House, has been transformed into a plant-filled tropical fantasia with sea-toned walls, leaf-printed banquettes, mother-of-pearl tiles, and some kind of dangling monkey lamp. It looks like Fantasy Island on an acid trip.

Then there’s the location. Despite a recent residential boom, River