Chicken in Adobo

DOBO, THE POTENT, pleasantly bitter sauce made from dried chiles, plays many roles in the cuisines of Mexico and the American Southwest: marinade, braising sauce, baste, and tableside condiment for all kinds of meats. (In Filipino cuisine, adobo is something else altogether.) Making adobo should be relatively easy: Toast dried chiles to activate their flavor, soak them, and then pulverize them in a blender with vinegar, herbs, and garlic. The best versions are simultaneously complex and deeply comforting. I set out to make a recipe