Backpacker

12. Secret Silence

WE’RE ALONE, but our solitude has been hard won. This morning, we set off to thru-hike the range, starting on a wellmarked trail that attracts Arizonans like hummingbirds to a prickly pear. The Superstitions’ wonders—Weaver’s Needle, Battleship Mountain, Geronimo Head—lined the way, ushering us into La Barge Canyon. But

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