Shelf Pin Jig

Drilling shelf pin holes has never been easier. Whether you want to use your router, a self-centering bit
or even a standard brad point drill (requires optional drill guide), the new Woodpeckers Shelf Pin Jig
does it all.
This new woodworking tool has features that allow you to take whatever approach you need in creating
accurately spaced, cleanly bored parallel rows of shelf pin holes.

The rails are counter bored from one side to accommodate self-centering drill bits like those available
from Snappy. Flip the rail over and use any 3/8” diameter template guide bushing with a plunger router
and spiral router bit to create crisp, clean, flat bottom holes.
A third floating rail is there to support your router and keep it from tipping. The clamps are also unique.
They actually elevate the board up off the work bench and clamp evenly from both edges. No more
cupping or chipping of plywood edges.
Two different versions are available; one with holes spaced every inch and a metric version with holes
spaced every 32mm.
The Woodpeckers Shelf Pin Jig works on boards up to 14” wide. and will ship on or before June 15 th .

The optional drill guide will be available at the same time.

Download Shelf Pin Jig Instruction Manual

Ver el manual como archivo PDF en
Carpintería madera/Cosas por hacer/Shelf pin jig WP intructions
 Otro modelo

Shelf Pin Boring Jig

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12329
A fast, convenient tool for line boring, using just a regular drill bit fitted with a stop collar. 2 hole center distances:
1" and 2". Comes with 5, 7, & 9mm, and 1/4" bushings, and indexing pin.

Can be adjusted to drill holes from 1" to 7" in from the edge. Aluminum body with brass knobs and hardened steel
bushings. Imported

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12329#
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/19012
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/tag/jig/by/date/page/7

I Like This! (3)

Because I don’t own a drill press, I wasn’t looking forward to drilling a bunch of equally spaced holes
for shelf pins in the sides of a cabinet. My prospects brightened when I came up with the self-aligning,
self-spacing jig for use with a portable drill, shown at right.

I made it from three pieces of oak, glued together as shown at right, and two short 1/4” dowels. I laid out
three 1/4” holes on 2” centers (the size and spacing for my shelf pins) along the centerline on the bottom
of the jig, with the center of the first hole—the guide hole—1” from the thick end. I used a drill guide
(McFeely’s part no. DG-3637, $39, 800/443-7937 or www.mcfeelys.com) to drill the three holes
perpendicular to the base.

After marking and drilling the first two holes in the series, I indexed the jig’s dowels in the cabinet-side
holes, and drilled the third hole. I then simply stepped the jig up one hole each time to drill the rest.
From Jim Laine Wood Magazine
 Drilling Holes for Shelf-Support Pins
http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00170.asp
With this jig built from scrap, you can handle this often-frustrating task with ease
by Andrew Fairbank

Most jigs for drilling holes for shelf pins are awkward to use and bulky to store. By
contrast, this simple homemade jig is small,
accurate, easy to use and built to last.

To make this jig, start with a scrap block of 3/4-in.-thick medium-density fiberboard
(MDF) and screw a hardwood fence to one edge. Measure in from the fence and install a
registration dowel sized to fit your shelf-pin hole. Both the fence and the registration
dowel should extend past the surface on both sides of the block: This allows the jig to be
flipped over and used along both edges of the workpiece.

Now measure a distance down from the registration pin and drill the guide hole. The
distance from the registration pin to the guide hole will set the spacing of the shelf-pin
holes. I prefer a spacing of 2 in. If the jig is to be used just once, you can use the guide
hole as is. However, if you want a jig you can use over and over, install a steel bushing for
the guide hole.
To use the jig, install a depth stop on the drill bit. For this use a 3/4-in.-dia. dowel drilled
along its axis and then cut to length so that only the correct amount of drill bit protrudes.
Measure down from the top of the workpiece and drill two starting holes, one on each
edge. Place the jig's registration pin in the first hole and, while holding or clamping the
fence against the edge of the workpiece, drill the second hole. Repeat this sequence while
walking the jig down the workpiece until you have drilled all of the shelf-pin holes along
one edge. Flip over the jig and repeat the process along the other edge.

Andrew Fairbank works wood in Australia.

Drawing: Jim Richey
From Fine Woodworking #157, p. 16
Purchase back issues