"Derechos reservados Fundacin Pan Klub - Museo Xul Solar"

DEC - 2014 | JAN - 2015 | FREE magazine | N 5

BUENOS
AIRES
GUIDE
DISCOVERING
EVITA
SUMMER
IN BA

Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires!

Thank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! As aficionados of Buenos
Aires ourselves, we are keen to share some top tips for the city so you can have the
very best experience of BA and Argentina! Please use us however you like: for tips,
for the handy map at the back, take us on a night out with your friends, or just thumb
through our pages during a couple bored hours on a bus or getting your do fixed.
Summer is here and we are ready to start celebrating with long evenings, weekends
away at the beach, and of course the fortnight-long festivities of Christmas and New
Year! This edition we wanted to bring you a guide to experiencing the festive season in
Argentina, recommended gifts and weve even got recommended wines to try.
If you are mainly concerned with beating the heat, weve got some tips to keep cool in
the city, and if you want to get to the coolest place in Argentina this Summer you might
find our guide to Patagonia useful.
Closer to the capital though, weve got a guide to the Ruta de Queso, a trip to the eery
Eden Hotel, and a fashionistas tips for visiting Colegiales. Were also dishing the scoop
on the best spots to tango, and we take a look at one of Argentinas greatest icons: Evita.
As usual we hope to have crammed this magazine with useful tips and recommendations
so you can enjoy your time in Buenos Aires and Argentina. When you are done with
your Playground guide, please pass us on to the next user. We want to get around as
much as possible, so if you do like the magazine, pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or
anyone that looks like they read a bit of English - the more hands on us the better! We
are a little bit trampish in that way. Or if you want to pimp us out yourselves in your own
restaurant or hotel, please drop us an email and well get some copies to you. We are
free for everyone!
We are also keen to hear from eager writers, illustrators, artists and photographers who are
interested in collaborating in the future. And if you simply want to email us some feedback
or some of your own favourite playground game ideas, wed love to hear from you!

Un beso!

Playground Buenos Aires

Editor | Amanda Barnes
editor@playgroundba.com

Bolivar esquina Venezuela

Design | Pablo Ortiz Avila

design@playgroundba.com
Distribution & Sales |
admin@playgroundba.com
Playground Argentina S.A.,
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2
Buenos Aires, Argentina
www.playgroundba.com

BUENOS AIRES IS YOUR

PLAYGROUND

CONTENTS
Beat the Summer Heat
A guide to summer in the city

Tango in BA

06

08

A guide to the capital's best tango spots

Discovering Evita

10

Understanding Argentina's icon

Top 5

13

The eateries you should know about

Scribbles from a Somm

Wines to start your new year right

Xul Solar

Focus On

15

16

18

Colegiales. A guide to this underrated neighborhood

Visiting Eden Hotel

20

An Eagle, Hitler and the strange tale of Argentina's Haunted Nazi Hotel

Ruta del Queso

24

A cheese lover's pilgrimage

26
Christmas Shopping 28
Tips for the best gifts this Christmas
New Year, New You 30
Guide to the Holidays

Tips for spending the festive season in Argentina

Places to meet your New Year's Resolution

A Hiker's Guide to Argentina

The top 5 hiking spots around the country

COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISH

AND ARGENTINE JAMN IN BUENOS
AIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMN!
Visit Museo del Jamn in Puerto Madero
for an excellent range of seafood,
meat dishes, homemade pasta, salads
and tapas. Try our unique specialties
including Suckling Pig, Salami and
Ham imported from Spain and the best
providers in Argentina, and Seafood
Fideu. We hope to see you soon!

33

36
Restaurant Guide 40
Top spots to eat in the city
Bar & Caf Guide 44
Where to drink and be marry
Playground Tips 46
Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires
Map 48
Where to Find Us 50
Destination Guide

El Calafate & Torres del Paine

Where to get free copies

Open every day from 12 till 12

Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020
Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As.
(011) 4300-5418
info@museodeljamonpuerto.com

f last years record heat wave is any

indication of whats to come, were
in for a hot one. If this is your first
summer in Buenos Aires, be
prepared for black outs, sweaty
subte rides and rising temperaments.
But it isnt all bad news Summer
is one of the best times of the year
in the city with the infectious buzz
of outdoor events, concerts and
vacation!
DO WHAT THE LOCALS DO
This may seem obvious or silly, but
look around at what porteos are
doing and copy them. (Advice for
travel in general.) For example, walk
on the shady side of the street, eat
when the locals eat, close the
persianas during the day, and
exercise after sunset - the Palermo
parks turn into a veritable exercise
highway of bikers/runners/skaters
after dark. Theres no need to be a
trailblazer in the blazing heat.

EAT AWAY THE HEAT

Thanks to the Italians that flooded
into the port with their gelato recipes,
this city does not want for tasty
helado. So eat a lot of it, and often.

Heladeras like Freddo, Volta and

Persicco are on every other street
corner so you wont have to search
long to get your fix, and they are
open late into the night to
accommodate porteos late dining
hours. Grab a friend and share a
cuarto de kilo. Popular summer
flavors include the classics like dulce
de leche, but also fruit sorbets passion fruit (maracuy), strawberry
(frutilla) and lemon (limn). If the
options are too overwhelming, try my
personal favorite, limn y chocolate
amargo. *Bonus local points for
taking advantage of discounts and
2-for-1 specials.

some H2O, one option is a stroll or

skate through Puerto Madero,
stopping along the way to admire
the yachts and rowers, or grab a bite
at one of the many offerings along
the dikes. The high-rises and price
tags may feel more like Miami, so
if thats not your scene, grab a bike,
some mate and have a picnic in the
Ecologic Reserve. A large plot of
pure mother nature, a rarity in any
metropolis, its free and full of shade.
Although its BYOB (bring your own
bondiola), if you forgot, you can
always grab some cheap eats at one
of the carritos along the Costanera Sur.

pity and invite you over on a hot day

to theirs. If not, take advantage of the
blue rate and purchase a day pass at
the Faena Hotel (Martha Salotti 445,
Puerto Madero) to use their pool. For
the more budget conscious, head
to one of the citys public pools at
Parque Manuel Belgrano (Palermo)
or Parque Presidente Sarmiento
(Saavedra) to enjoy the pools for
a modest entrance fee. Another
popular swimming option is Parque
Norte, which claims to be the largest
pool complex in South America,
spread over 30 acres. It may not be
a glam option, but it will assure you
some fun, 7 days a week, from 9 AM
to 8 PM.

THROW IN THE TOWEL, LITERALLY

Six years ago the city had the great
idea to create an urban beach, the
first of its kind in Latin America,
where families and friends alike can
enjoy some sun, sand and plenty of
activities, all free of charge. Buenos
Aires Playa (http://agendacultural.
buenosaires.gob.ar/evento/buenos-aires-playa-2014) is open from January
10 until March 4, Tuesdays to
Sundays, 10 AM to 8 PM, with two
main beaches and 10 solariums
dotted around the city. Check the
website for the yellow umbrellas
nearest you.
If you cant stand the citys humidity
any longer and feel the need to hop
on the Buquebus to Punta del Este,
keep in mind that Uruguay is a pricier
destination than Argentina. For those
who would like to spread their foreign
currency a bit further, Argentina also
has a variety of beach options, from
the resort city of Mar del Plata to
the coastal town of Pinamar to the
more rustic Mar de las Pampas. Try

to go early though or youll run into

the rest of Buenos Aires at the beach
- most people take their vacation in
January after the holidays.
For the extremely heat stricken,
book a flight to Patagonia and go
glacier watching. Theres no shame
in quitting when natural wonders are
involved.
Caitlin McCann is a writer and
translator living in Buenos Aires
for the last two years. Her favorite
Argie activities include drinking
wine, learning lunfardo and spotting
guanacos on road trips.
www.globetrottinggringa.com

HOW
TO
BEAT
THE
SUMMER
HEAT

For those on a liquid diet, put away

the Malbec and Bonarda for the
summer, and familiarize yourself with
the wonders of Torronts, Argentinas
star white wine. The best ones
generally hail from Salta, in the north
of the country, where high altitudes
and lots of sun give the grapes a
refreshing complexity. A nice chilled
glass or two at a local wine bar will
be sure to do the trick. Some local
favorites include Pain et Vin (Gorriti
5132, Palermo Soho), La Cava Jufr
(Jufre 201, Villa Crespo), Bar du
March (Nicaragua 5946, Palermo
Hollywood) and Gran Bar Danzon
(Libertad 1161, Recoleta).
HEAD FOR WATER
Although Buenos Aires is on the
coast, the city unfortunately doesnt
use its waterfront for much recreation, with few exceptions. If you need

If youre looking for a more

chlorinated option, maybe youre
lucky enough to live in a building with
a pileta, or have a friend who will take

El Querand

FESTIVE SEASON SPECTACULARS

BUENOS AIRES AND TANGO ARE

INTERTWINED, MUCH LIKE PARTNERS
DANCING TOGETHER. TANGO IS A
CONSTANT PRESENCE IN BUENOS
AIRES, WITH TANGO MUSIC
BLARING IN THE MICROCENTRE,
DANCERS EMBRACING FOR
TOURISTS IN THE STREETS OF LA
BOCA AND SAN TELMO, AND THE
DIMLY LIT MILONGAS WHERE
TANGUEROS MOVE GRACEFULLY
ACROSS THE DANCE FLOOR.
THERES NO DOUBT THAT TOURISTS
TO ARGENTINA NEED TO WITNESS
TANGO IN SOME FORM. LUCKILY
THERE ARE A NUMBER OF WAYS TO
DO THAT. A COUPLE BSAS4U
EXPERTS GIVE US THE LOWDOWN
CHOOSING A TANGO SHOW
A professional tango show might seem
at first glance a tourist trap, something
punted by touts on Florida Street.
However, tango shows are a part of
local culture, like any other musical on
Corrientes Avenue, so it is common to
find Argentines in the audience, whether
for business, pleasure, to or celebrate a
special occasion at a fancy tango show.

However, the trick is to choose the right

tango show for you. There are many
options of shows in Buenos Aires,
therefore is impossible to talk about the
best tango show, as each offers a
different experience for different tastes
and budgets. To help you choose, here
is brief categorisation of the main tango
houses of Buenos Aires:
THE MODERN, BROADWAY EXPERIENCE
If youre looking for all-round
entertainment, beyond just tango, you
might prefer the modern tango houses
that put on Broadway spectaculars,
complete with musical numbers and a
modern twist on tango. Seor Tango
is a popular choice putting on a real
extravaganza on its circus-esque stage.
In upmarket Puerto Madero there is
Madero Tango, a contemporary show
for an international audience, with a chic
venue and great views. Another upbeat
and trendy show with spectacular
choreography, an unbeatable orchestra,
and an art-deco theatre setting is Tango
Porteo, offering a truly Porteo
experience, in the heart of the theatre
and musical district of Corrientes.

routes in the neighbourhood of Boedo is

Esquina Homero Manzi, arguably the
most authentic tango caf in the city.
Or head to San Telmo, where the venues
are as enchanting as their shows.
La Ventana is a traditional show for
those who love classic tango; El Viejo
Almacen offers an intimate show in an
original location, and El Querand is set
in a colonial house with authentic wood
details and an art deco facade.
AN INTIMATE OR ROMANTIC SETTING
For those couples looking for a special
evening out in Buenos Aires, a tango
house with an intimate atmosphere and
grand setting will make them fall in love
again. Piazzolla Tango offers a romantic
ambience in its art nouveau theatre
inside Galeria Gemes. A fancy option,
paying tribute to another tango legend,
is Esquina Carlos Gardel, which offers a
top quality show in Gardels native
neighbourhood, Abasto. But if youre
looking for a more classic feel, try the
glamorous Caf Los Angelitos; this
notable cafs dcor will prove why it
was declared a place of cultural interest.
EXCLUSIVITY AND THE VIP TREATMENT

Attending a tango show is a cultural

experience in Buenos Aires. The artistic
value of these shows is undeniable,
as is the quality of the performers, as
most of them are skilled professionals,
trained in academies and, in some cases,
winners of international tango contests or
renowned local artists. The choreography,
execution, and professional tango bands
are on a level you will not see on the
streets.

AUTHENTIC TANGO FOR A

BOHEMIAN ENCOUNTER
Travel back to tangos roots with an
authentic experience recalling tangos
golden era. The historical tango
neighbourhoods offer a more bohemian
atmosphere and a perfect setting for
visitors looking for a more conservative
tango performance, not that it makes it
less impressive. Off the typical tourist

Some tango houses offer VIP options,

with prime seating and special menus.
But if youre willing to fork out some
extra money for a truly extraordinary
experience, Rojo Tango is on its own
level. Located in the glamorous and
eclectic Hotel Faena, this exclusive tango
show is styled as a Parisian cabaret, and
promises a luxury evening of high-class
entertainment.

Finding a place to spend a Christmas Eve

or New Years Eve in Buenos Aires is a
common concern for travellers spending
the holidays in the city. Parties on these
specific dates are hard to find, as
Argentines are very family oriented over
Christmas, and Buenos Aires empties
out over the festive season when
Porteos leave the city en masse to
spend the holidays at the nearest beach.
If youre looking for something to do on
one of these dates, consider visiting a
tango house to celebrate. Tango houses
put on a special extravaganza, with a
full dinner, unlimited drinks, show and a
party. With transport included, this is a

fantastic and unique way to celebrate the

festive season.
So remember, there is no wrong or right
way to enjoy tango in Buenos Aires. Find
the right fit for you and lose yourself to
the intensity and passion of this beautiful
dance.

Bsas4u specialises in tours and activities in

Buenos Aires, including tango shows. Bsas4us
staff is composed of a multilingual team ready
to help with any enquiry and its website not
only has the most complete list of things to do
and travel articles, but also offers great prices
with the best value for money.

For the aspiring dancers, and the brave,

some houses give tango lessons before
the show. Complejo Tango and Piazzolla
Tango are good choices for travellers
wishing to put on their dancing shoes.
Alternatively, visit a milonga for an
entirely different experience. You can
book a milongas tour for an insiders view
of tango culture, or head out on your own
to one of the milongas that has classes
for beginners.

Rojo Tango

Tango Porteo

va Pern is a name recognized around the

globe, made popular for most gringos by the
movie Evita starring Madonna, and the famous
ballad, Dont Cry for me Argentina, but there is
much more to this story than Madonnas powerful
vocals Dont leave rgentina without digging
deeper into the life of Eva Pern because her legacy
has changed the course of Argentine history.

DISCOVERING EVITA

Wife of Argentine president Juan Pern while he

was in power in the 1940s and 50s, Eva Pern was a
talented speaker and became an inspiring public
figure for the working class. She showed passion
and devotion to helping the disadvantaged in society
and her connection to the working class goes back
to her early life. Her father had two families as the
result of an affair, and she was a child of the
mistress. Once her father died, she was not
eligible to receive any inheritance, leaving her and
her siblings without a penny to their name. Eva then
decided to move to Buenos Aires to work as an
actress. She found minor success as an actress,
but her career really took off when she found her
way into the newly booming business of radio and
by 1940 she could afford to live independently.
This rags to riches tale is a great part of her legacy!

Photos by Daniela Pafundi

Soon after, she met Juan Pern and began her

journey into politics. She campaigned with and for
her husband as they shared similar political views.
Although Juan Pern was president, Evitas image
was the strongest symbol of the Peronist movement
as she was able to inspire the masses, especially the
working-class, through her convincing and
captivating speeches. She worked in building schools
and hospitals, campaigned for womens suffrage,
and became an idol for many.

10

However Evita was not loved by all, and her story

also comes with its share of controversy. The
Peronist government has been accused of fascism,
corruption and of being Nazi sympathizers, and still
has its many critics who often resent the image of
Evita. After the early death of Eva Pern (she died
from cancer at just 33), her body was removed from
its resting place by the Argentinian military. The
military had successfully overthrown Juan Perns
presidency only three years after Eva Perns death
and thought her body a sign of the Peronist
movement. Her body was taken to and buried in
Milan, Italy, under a false name. It was then brought
to Juan Pern while he was exiled in Spain,
and now, finally, the body rests in the Recoleta
cemetery, once again in Buenos Aires.

11

EATERIES YOU

RE-VISITING EVITA
If you want to retrace Evitas steps in Buenos Aires, plan
to visit these spots:
LA CASA ROSADA (THE PINK HOUSE)
Eva made appearances and speeches on the balcony of
La Casa Rosada and thousands of people would fill the
surrounding plaza to get a glimpse of their Evita.
Balcarce 50, Centro
LUNA PARK
Evita and Juan Pern met here during a fund-raising
campaign. Evita charmed him so quickly that they left the
park as a couple.
Av. Madero 420, Puerto Madero/San Nicols
PERN PERN RESTAURANT
A Peronism themed restaurant with titled menu items
referencing the movements, plenty of memorabilia, and
an hourly sing of La Marcha Peronista (The March of
the Peronist).
Angel Carranza 2225, Palermo Hollywood
THE CABILDO
With the risk of disappointing thousands, Eva delivered
her famous speech at The Cabildo revealing she would no
longer be able to run for office with her husband due to
her failing health.
Bolivar 65, Centro
LA RESIDENCIA
The Perons did not live in La Casa Rosada, but lived on
this property which has since been torn down and is now
reconstructed into the national library. In the librarys
garden, there is a monument of Evita and the plaza is
dedicated to her.
RECOLETA CEMETERY
After the strange, trans-atlantic, political journey of her
corpse to Italy and Spain, Eva Pern now rests in the
Recoleta Cemetery with her family. Visiting her grave is a
must do for most tourists coming to BA, although truth
be told there are far more impressive graves and
enormous memorials in this imposing cemetery.

SHOULD KNOW ABOUT

MARITA
Sanchez de Bustamante 2498, Barrio
Norte. (11) 4802-6670
Blink and you'd miss this secluded bistro
on a tranquil block in Barrio Norte. Owned
by a wine sommelier of the same name,
Marita is chic and understated, with its
white interior, gorgeous flower
arrangements and inviting black leather
sofas. The menu is concise yet enticing,
from sweetbread pinchos to whet the
appetite to top notch mushroom risotto
and pork loin for mains. Weekly wine
tasting events are relaxed affairs, with a
different amuse bouche paired with each
wine, a steal at 100 pesos.

GRAN DABBANG
Av Ral Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, Palermo.
(11) 4832-1186. Facebook: grandebban
gcafe
Open only a matter of months and yet
you'd be hard pushed to get a table on
a busy Friday or Saturday night. Run by
an enthusiastic anglo-Argentine husband
and wife team (Mariano is Argentine,
Philippa is British) the culinary influences
from their stay in Asia are apparent in
their liberal use of herbs and chilies in
their dishes. For Buenos Aires, famously
spice shy, Dabbang is another welcome
alternative to the culinary circuit. Swish
Chard pakoras with yoghurt and Sriracha
are delightfully light and flavoursome,

Daniela Pafundi is photographer from

Buenos Aires, Argentina. She is interested in
seeking to capture the magical, ephemeral
and wonder of life through photography. She
loves to travel and experience other cultures.
You can see her work in
www.flickr.com/photos/danielapafundi/
Rachel Davies came to Argentina for her
love of literature and is spending a year
studying the different writers and voices
of the country. You can read her travel blog
www.rachelrevels.blogspot.com.ar

12

cornbread with watercress and poached

egg an unlikely match made in heaven,
and the babbaghanoush the best I've
sampled in BA, perhaps in my life. Dishes
are seasonal and the prices inflation
busting, for now, so don't pass up the
chance of a delicious steal.

EL PERLADO
Hiplito Yrigoyen 1386, Congreso. (11)
4382-8689. Facebook: El Perlado
The art deco monochrome decking is the
first thing that strikes you with this hip
Congreso watering hole. The perfect place
to kick off a Porteno evening, the cocktails
are both reasonable and well made - they
can quickly rustle up a mean margarita
and their passionfruit pisco sour is the
house speciality. Chances are you'll get
seduced by the menu, with the renowned
beetroot and goats cheese gnocchi a
perennial favourite, along with the winning
formula tabbouleh and sensational lamb
burgers. Don't forget dessert, the tarte
tatin is a memorable afterthought.

YEITE
Humboldt 293, Villa Crespo.
(11) 4855-6777
The place that everyone has been raving
about, and with good reason. Pame Villar,
widely recognised as the best pastry chef
in BA has set up her first solo enterprise.
She currently designs the dessert menu

at Fernando Trocca's Sucre restaurant and

features on local Masterchef. The decor
is fresh and unpretentious, with flaking
paint, overhead spotlights, fern green
tiles, and rustic mirrored walls scrawled
in marker with the daily specials. The food
follows a similar line, with a photocopied
paper menu offering simple yet inventive
sharing plates like oven roasted pumpkin
and yellow beets, seasonal greens with
almonds and zucchini fritters with tzatziki.
The deserts and baked goods are sheer
purgatory for anyone with lax self restraint
as is the molten chocolate 'volcan' which
is prepared to order, the most worthwhile
15 minute wait you're likely to endure.

ROUX
Pena 2300, Recoleta. (11) 4805 6794
wwww.rouxresto.com
Roux is Martin Rebaudino's solo project
after 18 years as head chef at Oviedo
and it's a slick affair. This is contemporary
Argentine cuisine at its best, with a
molecular slant. Rebaudino marries
flavours perfectly in his selection of dishes,
seafood being his particular strength. The
decor is understated and minimal, the
food really does do the talking here. It's
not cheap but the ambience and quality of
the dishes is top notch and for a memorable
night out, Roux hits the spot.

Vanessa Bell is a freelancer and founder of Creme de la Creme, a

bespoke personalised shopping service, showing the exclusive and
underground BA, from fashion, vintage, art and antiques to interior
design and the best kept secret places to eat. (15) 3857 8127
www.cremedelacremeba.com
www.facebook.com/cremedelacremeba
Instagram.com/cremedelacremeba

Marita

Grand Dabbang

El Perlado

Yeite

Roux

13

ith a parade of parties ahead, you

might want to stock up your cellar
with a good variety of bottles. Putting
down a big fat Malbec is not going to cut
it at every occasion this festive season, so
here are some tips on what to stock up on
to get everyone in the party mood!
NOTHING BEATS BUBBLES
When you are in the mood for celebrating,
there is nothing quite as jovial as popping
a cork on a bottle of bubbly. Although the
experts say you should pop it like a posh
ladys fart (ie. keeping the pop to a
minimum), if you want to incite excitement
in the gathering you should do the contrary
(pop it loud!) Sparkling wine also has
almost magical pairing abilities. Try a better
structured, older vintage sparkling wine
with some time on the lees or an extra
brut ros to pair with main courses, or
pick a lighter and fruitier charmat method
sparkling wine for canap hour or for a
motivational morning mimosa.
50 SHADES OF RED
While the majority of wine drinkers in

Argentina prefer reds, you want to get the

wine just right: go too light and the wine
will go unnoticed, go too heavy and youll
send everyone to sleep. If you are looking
at a lunch wine, a leftovers wine or perhaps
you are cooking up a turkey this season,
pick something on the lighter spectrum. A
good Patagonian Pinot Noir will pair very
well with most dishes, and Bonarda is
a light and fruity wine that will easily go
down with most meals. If you are going for
a full-blown as asado and chargrilled meat
then go ahead with that Gran Reserva
Malbec youve been saving up all year, a
Cabernet Sauvignon or a Petit Verdot for
something interesting.
DONT BE TOO PROUD TO DO PINK
While it wont earn you any street cred,
pink wines can be your best secret
weapon for a catch-all pairing with different
foods. Ros (rosado in Spanish) typically
has a higher acidity than reds, but more
structure than whites and offers a happy
medium in pairing with a myriad of dishes
- ideal for a day of leftovers. Dry ros is
the best choice for most meals, but if your

food has a bit more spice, try a ros with a

slightly higher residual sugar. Serve it good
and chilled and it is a super Summer wine.
SWEET FOR MY SWEET, LATE
HARVEST FOR MY HONEY
For an end-of-meal cheese platter,
Christmas pudding or fruit cake, youll want
a sweet wine on hand to end on a high
note. Try late harvest white wines for blue
or salty cheeses, or late harvest or portstyle red wines for chocolate desserts and
fruit cake. If you want to come full circle,
you could also finish on a sweet bubbly
- Argentina offers a massive selection of
sweet sparklings - look for Brut (med-dry
with touch of sweetness), Demi-sec (semisweet) or Late Harvest (sweet).
Amanda Barnes is a wine writer based
in South America, traversing the continent
with her notepad and
corkscrew in hand.
You can follow her
wine tales on
@amanda_tweeter
or her websitewww.
amandabarnes.co.uk

Scribbles from aW inSesomtom..en.jo y

Daniela Fernandez is a wine

lover from La Plata and is
currently Sommelier at Francis
Mallmann 1884 in Mendoza. She
is used to drinking on the job.
@Dana_Fernandez_

FESTIVE WINE PAIRINGS

ev en mo re !

lif e

There are lots of articles that suggest there are some wines you
must try before you died Rather than focus on death, Ive
also make dinner more memorable and, although they are a little
expensive, they are worth it! Dont wait till death to enjoy wines
like these - drink them now and create moments to be with you
for the rest of your life!

1. Varua Cabernet Sauvignon - 2013 - $845 pesos

"Finca La Anita" winery choose for whichever variety was the best that year, and create their top wine. In 2013 it was a
Cabernet Sauvignon. Coming from Agrelo (Mendoza), the wine has a high-intensity of color, really deep, with a fruity nose,
plum, well marked blackberry In the mouth it is characterized by a big structure but is a beautiful combination. Balanced

2. Colom Torronts - 2014 - $100 pesos

For the white variety, I was interested in choosing something typical from Argentina, so I thought of Torronts! If you go
shopping, you may notice that there are actually different styles of Torrontes. I wanted to pick one that has sophistication,
is considered the highest altitude viticultural region in the world. Perhaps because it is so close to the sun, the color is a
balanced, matching its pleasant fruity nose.

3. Chacra Treinta y dos Pinot Noir - 2012 - $1290 pesos

What an amazing wine! A wine that can tell the world that delicate grapes can also be produced in Argentina. Chacra is
located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia. It has a perfect color for a Pinot Noir: light red, shiny, translucent
and captivating. But in my opinion the best is in the nose that catches you completely. Red fruit, strawberry and cherry, but

4.

Roberto de la Mota is the winemaker in charge, and he is one of the most respected winemakers in Argentina. This is a
blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The vineyards (up to 80 years old!) are located in Perdriel, Mayor
color. It has aromas of black cherries, raspberries, blackberries and then appears spices, pepper and mint notes. On the
palate it is well structured, with a nice freshness making it easy to drink with round tannins. The combination of grapes
makes it so interesting.

5. Nico by Luca Malbec - 2010 - $1215 pesos

In my opinion we could consider this a great ambassador for Argentina. Its color makes you proud to call it a red wine,
choice. An intense expression of red and black fruit dazzles its nose, and it makes you want to try it. The aromas in the
duo to combine. Try it, you wont be disappointed!

Anyway, each one has it owns reasons for living one of mine is wines! Merry Christmas
and happy New Year! I hope you have plenty of excuses to toast this season!

15

Proyecto fachada Delta. 1954

Acuarela. 26 x 36 cm

All photo rights belong to Fundacin Pan Klub

Museo Xul Solar

who is almost impossible to

categorize, Xuls creations range from
modifying pianos to have coloured
keys so one can play entire
compositions and scores by colours
not notes; to creating alternative
astrology charts and his own set of
Tarot cards.
Many of his paintings reflect his
own religious beliefs and philosophy,
which were party informed by
Buddhism. There are also two
languages which Xul created: Neo
Criollo and Pan Lingua, both of which
you can observe - although perhaps
not fully comprehend - in his art. Xul

his edition we have the great

pleasure of dedicating our
cover to one of Argentinas
most influential artists, Xul Solar.
Although the artist passed away
almost 52 years ago, his art works
live on and his influence continues
reaching many new fans through
the Xul Solar gallery dedicated
entirely to his works and housed in
his historic home in Barrio Norte.
Amanda Barnes takes a retrospective look at Xul Solar and the
worlds he orbited.
The birth of Xul Solar
Born Oscar Agustin Alexander Schultz
Solari in Buenos Aires in 1887, after
training as a musician and architect,

MUSEO XUL SOLAR

Laprida 1212, Barrio Norte
Tues - Fri 12 pm - 8 pm
Sat 12 pm - 7 pm
$20 pesos entrance
www.xulsolar.org.ar

he sailed to Europe as a young adult

where he learnt about movements
such as Symbolism, Expressionism
and Constructivism.
During this period he began to
formulate his ideas and began his
career as an artist, adopting the
creative name Xul Solar. His name
was one of the first of his
explorations into linguistic games.
Xul is Lux backwards, meaning light
in Latin, and Solar (as well as being
similar to his birth surname) means
Sun. The light of the sun is a theme
which would re-appear in many of his
works.
Traveling Europe, Xul struck up many
strong relationships with artists at

the time, but it was perhaps once

he returned to Buenos Aires in 1924
that he made some of his closest
relationship, becoming part of the
Florida group with other influential
artists including Jorge Luis Borges,
who remained a close friend until his
death. It didnt take long after Xuls
return home to find himself at the
forefront of the avant-garde movement in Latin America.
The many worlds of Xul
You only need to look at couple of
Xuls art works to see that he was
a genius. His body of work doesnt
just reflect his own artistic tendency,
but the creation of different realities,
languages and philosophies. An artist

"I am a world champion of a game that nobody yet knows called panchess
(Panajedrez). I am master of a script that nobody yet reads. I am creator of a
technique, of a musical grafa that allows the piano to be studied in a third of
the usual time that it takes today. I am director of a theatre that as yet has not
begun working. I am creator of a universal language called panlingua based on
numbers and astrology that will help people know each other better.

"Derechos reservados Fundacin Pan Klub - Museo Xul Solar"

XUL SOLAR

Ciuda Lagui - 1939

played many games on and off the

canvas. He even created his own
version of Chess, or non-Chess to
be specific.
Xul has not only been immortalised
in his own creations, but his close
friend Borges also immortalised the
artist in one of his own semi-fictional
tales Tln, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius
which features Xul as a character.
One of his greatest legacies is the
Fundacion Pan Klub which his widow
Lita Cadenas created in his honour,
formalising the Pan Klub (which
means universal club in his
Neocriollo language) which Xul

Cinco Melodias - 1949

Palacio Almi - 1932

Mui wile con yu - 1962

Drago - 1927

himself began as a club for other

intellectuals to meet in his home
and discuss common interests. The
Fundacion now runs the quirky
gallery in his old townhouse and
continues to promote the work of
Xul. The house upstairs is also
perfectly preserved with Xuls
enormous collection of books and
pictures of he, his wife and friends.
Nowadays the best way to enter the
world of Xul Solar is through visiting
this unique museum and pursuing
the works which offer us a glimpse of
the vision of this extraordinary man.

17

Granada
also sell an assortment of funky objets
dart and some vinyl garden chairs that
are on show in the adjoining walled patio.
Every design detail of the space is
carefully thought out, from the vintage
record player playing crackly old records
to the open hardback books that cleverly
hold the stores business cards between
their pages. Olleros 3295,
www.labobjetos.com

he quiet, residential Colegiales,

with its tree-lined streets and
classic Buenos Aires-style
homes, is Palermo Hollywoods quieter,
more laidback neighbor. While its not
the first barrio that springs to mind
when you think about shopping in the
city, some of the citys best shopping
secrets are tucked away down
unknown streets or behind closed
doors and, due to soaring rent prices
in Palermo, numerous designers and
design houses have set up shop in the

shoes from her small, highly coveted

collection. Coming from a background in
fashion production and styling, Kessel
was bored of seeing the same footwear
styles season after season so decided to
take the matter into her own hands and
start designing and making her own. Her
original designs are a welcome relief from
those clumpy (some might say unsightly)
creeper shoes or sky high stilettos that
you see walking the streets of Palermo.
She opts for more feminine yet edgy
styles with pointy toes, sturdy straps and
SILVIO SIERRA
This socially-responsible menswear
brand run by Silvio Jos and Javier
Herrero works with the NGO Dignidad in
the production of their fitted shirts, socks
and boxers. Their pieces are all made
from 100% cotton and bear fun prints,
from stripes and plaid to palm trees and
pin up girls. For the summer season, they
also have a line of beach mats (a personal
fave) featuring the exotic artwork of
Lucila Dominguez that are so cool they
could pass as wall hangings (check out
her other work at www.lucilismo.com) .
Their private showroom is housed in a
cute white-washed PH-style house

Jessica Kessel Shoes

up and coming hood. Spend an

afternoon moseying about the streets
of Colegiales and check out some of
these gems.
JESSICA KESSEL SHOES
This fresh-faced young shoe designer
receives clients in her bright airy
apartment to snap up a new pair of

18

more manageable heels that are

surprisingly comfortable. Her on trend
open-heel ankle boots and and two-tone
pastel coloured sandals will certainly pack
a punch this summer. By appointment
only, address given on request, email
info@jkshoes.com.ar or call 11 5263
0268, jkshoes.com.ar

Laboratorio de objetos

complete with a little indoor terrace

where they host the occasional event.
Alvarez Thomas 637, Timbre 2, open
Tuesday to Friday 6pm to 8.30pm,
Saturday 4pm to 8.30pm or by
appointment only, www.silviosierra.com
While youre there, poke your head into
the adjoining new showroom of Ponele
Onda where you can personalize a pair
of plain high-waisted jean shorts or
boyfriend jeans (that they have in stock)
with studs, patches, colorful dyes and
other fun embellishments. You can also
recycle old clothing and take it along for
a creative revamp. www.facebook.com/
veniponeleonda

Ponele Onda

GRANADA
This cute little cornershop caters to your
every organic need selling an assortment
of fresh and dried produce, hard-to-find
herbs, all natural beauty products, and
essential oils. The owner also stocks her
adorable brand of 100% cotton baby togs
and accessories named Mama Loba that
features cute onesies, sleeping bags, bibs
and the indispensable mei tei in colorful
stylish prints. Freire 1102, 4554 2906,
www.facebook.com/AlmacenGranada
ROOMIE
This pop-up fashion showroom is a must
for fashionistas. Housed in a very stylish
abode in the heart of Colegiales, it takes
place twice a year and ties in with the
new seasons collections from a rotating
rosta of the citys cream-of-the-crop
emerging designers. Shop for leather,
cool threads, shoes, jewelry and other
accessories for the new season. Check
their Facebook page for the next dates
www.facebook.com/helloroomie,
address given on request, roomie.
babylon-lab.com
FUEL UP
If you need to sit down and re-fuel after
your shopping oddyssey in Colegiales
check out Astor Bistro for a stylish dinner
with contemporary Argentine cuisine
Cuidad de la Paz 353, www.astorbistro.
com, or closed door restaurant Cocina
Sunae www.cocinasunae.com with

LABORATORIO DE OBJETOS
This smart-looking boutique sells a
well-curated collection of retro and Art
Deco-style furnishings with a nod to
Scandanavian style that will make you
want to remodel your entire house. The
main focus of owner Paola Arduino is on
beautifully restored furniture, updated
with colorful printed upholstery, but she

SECTOR MAP

Ponele Onda

fabulously flavourful Asian dishes. If you

are looking for more of a liquid refuel
check out the Happy Hour (6-8pm) at
Buena Birra Social Club Zapiola 1353,
www.buenabirrasocialclub.com, a
popular craft beer pub.

Sophie Lloyd is a
personal shopper
who has been
scouting her way
around the many
shops and designers
of Buenos Aires
for over 4 years. She offers customized,
private shopping tours, group shopping
tours, customized shopping itineraries,
personal shopping/gift services and even
wardrobe edits with her business www.
shop-buenosaires.com. Email Sophie at
infoshopbuenosaires@gmail.com (11)
3921 0460.

Silvio Sierra

2-H
3-H

19

The Eichhorns 25th Anniversary

Party with Edmund von Thermann

which coordinates the tours and is also in the process of

redeveloping the historic site to function both as a tourist
attraction and site for events, shows and educational
activities.
But unlike most historic attractions in other corners of
the world, a visit to the Eden conjures a mysterious if not
unsettling sensation of a place that is open for visitors, but is
not quite ready to reveal all of its secrets.

***
Today, anyone with $35 Argentine pesos and the means to get to
La Falda, about an hour and a half drive northwest of the City of
Crdoba, can visit the remains of the Eden Hotel for a guided tour (in
Spanish). The complex is now owned by the municipality of La Falda,

20

A gift from Adolf

Mr. and Mrs. Eichhorn, To my comrades in battle during difficult

times for your Silver Anniversary. Warm Wishes, Adolf Hitler

During the daytime guided tour, guests filter through the

main entrance first watch a short movie explaining the basic
history of the site. Next comes a visit to the meticulously
restored bar, followed by the main dining room. Here you
learn of the original decadence, followed by the dark Nazi
secrets, and finally the post-WWII ruin of the hotel. In
the same dining salon where the Eichhorns celebrated their
anniversary with the personalized gift from arguably the
worlds most powerful and evil man, you discover that after
the hotel was abandoned in 1947, off and on for 50 more
years the horses of local farmers used the looted dining room
to eat, sleep and do their business.

Following the visit to the main restored portions,

visitors are guided to the second floor and up a large
staircase to see the largely unrestored bones of the guest
lodging areas. Although they have been cleared of the
mounds of debris and graffiti that were a result of years
of abandonment and neglect, these spaces provide a clear
reminder that this place was once the height of beauty
and luxury, but is now paying for its sins. You must be
careful not to step in holes in the floor, and not to stray
too far down an unblocked hallway while the rest of the

Albert Einstein (center, dark coat and

hat) during a visit to the Eden in 1925,

Wealthy Germans who now called Argentina home, the Eichhorns were excited all day as over-the-top
flower arrangements and congratulatory telegrams from all corners of the globe flooded into the hotel in La
Falda, the small town that grew up around the resort. It was the guest of honor, German Ambassador
to Argentina Edmund von Thermann, who possessed the gift that most
delighted the couple. After a decadent meal and free flowing wine, in
front of all of their friends, Walter and Ida would beam with pride as
von Thermann hand delivered the silver framed portrait, inscribed by
the photos subject himself, who had scrawled in German:

***

The main dining room during the

hotels heyday.

ay 15th, 1937 was a big day at the Eden Hotel, a luxury vacation resort in the
western sierras of Argentinas Crdoba province. In the main dining room, bowtie
clad-waiters rushed to and fro nervously, clanking silverware, champagne flutes
and preparing table settings for hundreds of guests, all in preparation for a wedding
anniversary dinner. The resorts house orchestra warmed up in the adjacent room,
readying for a long live show. Everything had to be just so, for this was not just any
other reception; tonight, honored guests arrived to celebrate the 25th silver
anniversary- or Bodas de Plata- of the Eden Hotels owners, Walter and Ida Eichhorn.

There were large terraces for relaxing on warm days,

and indoor greenhouse gardens for taking sun during the
winter. Game rooms and swimming pools occupied women
and children, while men could spend the day hunting foxes
aboard the trained horses from the nearby stables. It sounds
like an ideal setting to escape the noise, heat and chaos of the
city. But was the Eden Hotel the idyllic paradise that it
claimed to be?

Patrons enjoying drinks in the

Built during Argentinas Golden Age in 1898 by a

different German immigrant, the Eden Hotel was purchased by the Eichhorn brothers in 1912. They
appreciated the agreeable climate and beautiful scenery of the Punilla Valley and the nearby mountains
that surrounded the 100-room hotel. The Eichhorns invested heavily in improving the property in the
1920s, where the elite of Argentina and the world would come to visit for days, weeks or sometimes even
months on end. Before the journey from Crdoba was arduous- the Eichhorns paved the roads and
bought a fleet of Ford Model-Ts to transfer guests in
comfort, at least those not rich enough to arrive by plane to
the resorts private landing strip.

21

group moves on. Seeing these bare walls, smelling the dust and chipped painted, and hearing the footsteps
on the broken tile brings out the stories of the ghosts: a young girl who died from a case tuberculosis, kept
hidden as not to alarm other guests; an apparition of the wife of the first owner, wearing her best white
dress and ornate hat, standing there on the balcony.

***

Walter and Ida Eichhorn in Germany

in the 1930s, meeting with Hermann
Gring and Adolf Hilter (right)

After Argentina abandoned its pro-Axis stance and declared war on Germany in 1945 only three weeks
before the official armistice, local authorities seized the Eden Hotel as enemy property. Anti-fascist
Argentines, some from the same group that Ernesto Che Guevaras father participated with, raided
the property and tore down the giant German eagle, seeing it as a symbol of Nazism. Legend has it that
the eagle was later restored by the municipality, but destroyed again when struck by lightning during a
thunderstorm.
The anti-fascist locals had reason to be concerned:
it is estimated that Walter and Ida Eichhorn helped
contribute more than 30,000 deutschmarks (roughly
equivalent to US $1 million today) to Hitler and the
Nazi party, collecting the money in Argentina from local
sympathizers and German expatriates and funneling it to
the Nazi Ministry of Propaganda in the name of Joseph
Gobbels. During frequent visits to Germany in the
1920s, Walter Eichhorn became a supporter of Hitler
early in his political career, helping the Frher finance
an aircraft and Mercedes-Benz to help him campaign.
For this early loyalty Walter was later rewarded with
gifts and private audiences with Hitler and his highest generals, including the infamous and flamboyant
Hermann Gring.
These sinister connections alone are enough to add to the uneasy feeling one gets while visiting the halls
of the Eden, but the story does not end there. Only some months after Hitlers suicide in his Berlin
bunker, the United States Federal Bureau of Investigations, or FBI, released a secret memo that
was declassified in the 1990s. Penned by J. Edgar Hoover, the document connects the Eichhorns to the
founding of the Nazi party, Hitlers rise, and their close friendship. Most ominously, it suggests that if
Hitler somehow did survive, he would surely find refuge in a place far-flung from Europe and his allied
enemies. In all the world, the memo singled out one place: La Falda, Argentina.
***
In the ensuing years since the collapse of the decadence of the Eden Hotel, conspiracy theories of several
different varieties have developed surrounding the resorts strange history. Many books and exposs have
been written by historians and journalists, several documentaries filmed and even a fictional Argentine
TV drama called Eden was set in the era. At times it has been difficult to separate fact from fiction,

22

possible refuge in La Falda.

More substantive than whispers of lingering spirits are the photos of the famous guests on the walls, who
over the years included not just four Argentine presidents but also Albert Einstein, the Prince of Wales,
the Duke of Savoy, famous Nicaraguan poet Rubn Dario, and acclaimed Italian conductor Arturo
Toscanini. From the restored presidential suite where some of these guests slept, the balcony provides a
view of the entire front of the property and the remains of the fountains and the gardens. From this same
vantage point 80 some years ago, you would have been able to see two things that are no longer remain: the
large German eagle emblem that was the centerpiece to the hotels faade, and a radio antenna, big and tall
enough to send and receive transmissions from the other side of the world. This antenna carried Hitlers
live speeches to the Nazi sympathizers in Crdoba, and sent messages back from the secret meetings of the
Eichhorns and their collaborators.

historic record from rumor. But there is no shortage of intrigue. The

ancestors of Eichhorns supposedly still live in the area, but add to
the controversy by refusing to talk to the media. Citizens have come
forward to confess that their parents had revealed a hidden past as
Nazis who fled Germany for new lives and identities in Crdoba.
Adolf Eichmann, the author of Hitlers horrid final solution, found
refuge under an assumed name in Argentina and is said to have
frequently visited La Falda before his eventual capture in the 1960s.
Supposedly one of his sons married the daughter of the hotels former
gardener. When a German ship, the Graf Spee limped into a South
American port in 1939, many of the crew abandoned the ship and
integrated into Argentine society, many becoming waiters at the Eden
Hotel.
***

A visit to La Falda can create a range of emotions, and raise complex questions. The remains of the
Eden do not represent the spirit of justice, as those who ardently supported the Nazi regime in spirit and
monetarily quietly slipped back into Argentine society. The town became a pilgrimage site for Nazis on the
run- to include some of their most sinister leaders. Today, the city that was born because of the resort has
started to restore it. In one aspect it is a tool to tell the entire story of the hotels past. They do a good job
of providing the complete history, including the darkest parts of the Nazi roots. It is not a memorial, but a
symbol of what can befall decadence and evil. In another aspect, the city is using the complex to improve
the life and culture of the local citizens. In addition to university extension spaces, the common areas can
be rented for weddings and other events.
If you decide to visit, you will no doubt contemplate these paradoxes as you tour the halls, or imbibe in
wine and cheese in the visits finale, a tasting in the
hotels wine cellar. For the truly brave there is a
nighttime ghost tour two or three times a month
and according to a varying schedule. A group of
at least 50 people are guided through the darkness,
trying to hear the whispers of ghosts over the
chatter of nervous Argentines.
If you close your eyes, you might picture the
glittering parties, hear the faint orchestra, and the
hair may stand up on the back of your neck. You
may not smile, but one thing is for sure: you will
never forget your visit to the Eden Hotel.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Eden Hotel
Av. Eden 1400
La Falda / Provincia de Crdoba / Argentina
(03548) 421080 426643 / (03548) 15630627
info@edenhotellafalda.com
Day tours (Spanish)
Every day from 9:30 am to 19 pm hs.
$35 pesos per person with. (special retirement or
student rates available)
Children under 10 are free.

Night tours (Spanish)

3 nights per month (check website http://
edenhotellafalda.com/visitas-nocturnas/)
Tour begins 2200 (approximately 1 hour and 40 minutes)
$45 pesos per person.
Children under 10 not admitted.
Jared Wilhelm is an American engineer
and pilot, currently on scholarship to
attend the Universidad Nacional de Cuyo
in Mendoza. Passionate about flying,
traveling and wine, he tries to avoid more
than two of the three at the same time.
@jaredwilhelm

23

Quesos de Suipacha

If youre looking for a daytrip

outside of Buenos Aires or
perhaps have a penchant
de fromage, look no further.
Beth Delthony hits the road
and takes us along the Ruta
del Queso (cheese route) in
Suipacha.

If you love blueberries, then dont

miss Plantacin de Arndanos Il
Mirtilo (RN5 km 122.5, Sat & Sun,
10-1 & 3.30-6.30, 011 15-5120-4564,
www.ilmirtilo.com.ar). This
blueberry farm produces many
different blueberry related products
- juices, jams and more. They offer
guided tours of the farm, which can
include a lunch on their property.

ust an hour and a half outside of

Buenos Aires, in the small town of
Suipacha you will find the little known
Ruta del Queso (Cheese Route).
There are several queso (cheese)
shops to visit, a blueberry farm and
a wild boar farm. If you want to do
it yourself and are just interested in
buying some local treats, you can
just stop into any or all of the shops,
they all allow you to sample some
of the cheese prior to selecting your
purchases.
Or you can organise a cheese route,
and book tours (in Spanish) at some
of the many producers. Just print
out the PDF map from the Ruta del
Queso website (www.rutadelqueso.
com.ar) for all the details. Most tours
need to be booked through the Ruta
del Queso website.

Tienda Almacn 126

Quesos de Suipacha
Quesos Sign at Fermier
Quesos de Campo

24

Suipacha is a sleepy but cute little

town, you can see all of it in one day,
but if you want to spend the night
or find yourself in a cheese coma,
theres a hotel in the centre of town
(www.altosuipacha.com) with a
restaurant and small shopping area
attached.
The first shop you will encounter on
Ruta 5 is Quesos Fermier (RN5 km
118, open daily 9-6, 02324 15 53 18
97, www.quesosfermier.com). Their
quaint little shop is open for visitors
daily from 9am-6pm. They have
cheese and many regional products
including teas, wines, blueberries and
much more for sale, and you can do
an organised cheese and wine tasting
or take a tour of their cheese making
facilities.

Just up the road, past the Entrance

to the town of Suipacha, you will find
Quesos de Suipacha (RN5 km126,
open daily, 8-8, 02324 15-64-6048,
Facebook: Quesos-de-Suipacha).
This shop is much bigger and carries
a larger assortment of cheeses and
locally produced products, jams,
sauces, olive oil and more. Although
they dont have samples always set
out if you ask they will let you try
some of the products. They also run
a small caf if you want a coffee or
dessert break. If youre doing a Ruta
del Queso tour, this is where you will
meet your guide.
Further down Ruta 5 is Cabaa
Piedras Blancas (RN5 km129.3,
open Mon, Tues & Thurs 9-6, Fri-Sun
10-6, 0810-777-0272, www.
cpiedrasblancas.com.ar). They offer
wine and cheese tastings on the
weekends, and a tour of their farm.
Otherwise you can just stop into their
small shop and sample a few cheeses, their goat cheeses are some
of the best Argentina has to offer.
They only carry their brand here, but
they have the largest variety we had
seen anywhere, including vacuum
sealed cheddar, so if youre a lover of
all things cheddar like we are, then

make sure to stock up here.

The last option for your tour is La
Escuadra (Cuartel Rural XII, Parcela
697, open Sat & Sun from midday,
02324 497170, www.la-escuadra.
com.ar). Located through the town,
this wild boar farm and restaurant is
a little difficult to get to (especially if
you are driving in heavy rain!) Take
the main road through Suipacha,
Padre Brady, after about 3 kilometers
when the road makes a sharp turn to
the left, take the dirt road to the right
and then just follow the signs. Open
at weekends for tours and tastings,
and with a restaurant offering a fixed
menu with jabal (wild boar) as the star.
Once youve finished your cheese
voyage, if you want any non-dairy
souvenirs try Almacn 126, open
Friday-Sunday.
The Ruta de Queso is a great chance
to get out and explore a different side
of Argentina. If youre like us youll
probably head home with more
cheese than you know what to do

with! So plan ahead and make sure

to buy some fresh and some
vacuumed sealed cheeses to avoid
certain dairy overload. Then crack
one open and enjoy it with some of
the blueberry wine you couldnt help
yourself from picking up.
Beth Delthony is a lawyer turned travel writer
who has been busy exploring South America
for the past few years. Check out more of
her food, wine and other adventures on her
website. Planning a trip, ask her for tips!
www.SantiagoTourist.com
@BethDelthony

CHEESE
TRIPPING
VISITING
THE RUTA
DEL QUESO

Product display at Fermier

Quesos del Campo

Welcome Sign at Fermier

Quesos de Campo

ADVERTISE

HERE!
admin@playgroundba.com

24

AT HOME | This is normally the night that everyone goes to

the pub to get a bit drunk and slap each other on the back
with early Christmas greetings. Kids go to sleep early to make
sure Father Christmas definitely comes, and while they are
pretending to sleep most parents are manically wrapping the
presents before dawn break and indulging in a cheeky glass of
port or sherry, perhaps in between midnight mass and church
services.
IN ARGENTINA | This is the big one. When anyone asks you
how you are spending Christmas, they actually mean What
are you doing on the 24th? Shops are packed in the afternoon
with a bit of gift buying and most importantly everyone
buying their picada and asado. The party starts at around 9pm
as families all gather together for big dinners, which might be
a BYO buffet or BBQ. At midnight you all step out to see the
huge explosion of fireworks in the sky and by the time the
biggest fireworks have dimmed there is usually a huge pile of
presents for the kids from family, or Father Christmas if he still
exists. Present unwrapping mayhem and plenty more energy
keeps the household buzzing way beyond midnight. At 2am
is when the party really starts Nightclubs are packed with
massive dance parties that carry on until the very late hours
of Christmas morning! This is one of the biggest party nights
of the year.
AT HOME | Ahhh Christmas Day. The moment that every
child has been waiting for. Their parents might take them
to Church in the morning to fidget all the way through a
Christmas morning service, but we all know that every child
is only thinking about one thing today what is sat under
the Christmas Tree. And that is a huge stack of presents. On
the return home it is wrapping paper everywhere, excited
cries, sweat and maybe a few tantrums. And then of course,
the family Christmas lunch: massive portions of roast birds
with all the trimmings, Christmas crackers, silly paper hats,
bad jokes and perhaps the odd argument over Trivial Pursuit.
Snoozing in front of the TV by 9pm.
IN ARGENTINA | As everyone still recovers from the night
before, the 25th is a much more mellow day perhaps with
a family BBQ but more likely taking a long siesta and
maybe finding a little spot in the sunshine to soak up some
summer sun.

AT HOME | Why are you bothering me on the 5th of January?

Leave me alone, January sucks. Ahh crap I need to take
down the Christmas Tree.

AT HOME | Hangover. And putting

off your New Years Resolutions till
tomorrow. Some nutters by the coast
go out for a morning dip in the freezing
cold sea. That will see off the hangover!
AT HOME | Perhaps the equivalent of
the 25th for Argentines, the 26th (or
Boxing Day for the Commonwealth
crew) is a day for pigging out on
leftovers, watching Christmas specials
on TV, perhaps seeing the other side of
the family you didnt spend yesterday
with, and just generally being lazy.
IN ARGENTINA | What is the 26th?
Nothing. Its back to work.

Amanda Barnes
is a travel and wine writer who has been celebrating Christmas
in Argentina (and neighbouring Uruguay) for the last 5 years. Her
favourite new Christmas tradition is a massive water fight in the
sunshine with whomever is unfortunate enough to be looking
down the other end of her mega soaker!
www.amandabarnes.co.uk
@amanda_tweeter

26

25

IN ARGENTINA | Another of the most anticipated days for

children around the country! The day of the Wise Men!
While secularists in the northern hemisphere have almost
forgotten that the wise men were still travelling to visit the
Baby Jesus, no child in Argentina has forgotten, because
the Epiphany means more presents! Children leave their
shoes by the door, and grass and water for the camels, in
anticipation for the Three Kings arrival. Overnight the living
room magically transforms into a playroom filled with
brightly-wrapped gifts and this is the second chance for
kids to get that gift that has been on their wish list all year
(which perhaps didnt make it under the tree for Christmas).
Adults might eat an epiphany cake, but the day more
likely marks the moment that you need to clear away the
decorations and the 6th is the day when you can no longer
use Santa or the Wise Men as an excuse to make the kids
behave.

26
31

IN ARGENTINA | Hangover. And

maybe a family lunch or BBQ. It is
glorious weather outside so a dip in a
swimming pool is a great bonus, and
maybe add a nice cool glass of beer.

AT HOME | Party night. Youll probably be tired of people

asking you what your New Years Eve plans are by now, and
youve probably re-thought your New Years outfit at least a
dozen times. This is one of the biggest going out nights of
the year with a ton of pressure to have fun (and consequently
often a bit of a let down too!) The party probably starts at 7
or 8pm, and everyone gets progressively more merry as you
wait for the clock to begin striking. With the big count down
to midnight (10, 9, 8) you urgently search for someone to
give you a midnight kiss or snog, and then stutter through the
words of Auld Lang Syne (does anyone know those?) Once
you make it past midnight, it is all downhill from there: sloppy
drunks and waiting for hours to grab a taxi home.
IN ARGENTINA | Pretty much a repeat of the 24th, although
not always as big. Around 10pm families reunite for another
large dinner party whether you are doing a la canasta (BYO)
or a BBQ. As midnight arrives theres a brindis (or cheers)
and it is back outside for another massive fireworks display,
although this time even bigger than the 24th. If youve still
got some energy, at about 2am it is party time again and
everyone heads to the boliche (nightclub).

27

Daniela Fernandez is an
Argentine sommelier who
enjoys celebrating all the
holidays with a good glass
of Argentine Malbec!
@Dana_Fernandez_

Are you spending your first Argentine Christmas

here and are stuck for gift ideas to give to the
family kind enough to host you on the special
day? Or perhaps you are heading home and
want to stock up on traditional Argentine gifts
to bestow upon your curious family? Local
Daniela Fernandez gives us the lowdown on
what to take home from Argentina, or what to
gift an Argentine family this year.

WHAT TO TAKE HOME

WHAT TO GIFT HERE

1. Dulce de Leche
Dulce de leche is the typical sweet treat from Argentina. It can
be used for breakfast smothered on toast, or during the day
with Alfajores
chocolates. This gift is for people
who have sweet tooth. You have different brands to choose
from: La Serensima is a traditional one, Havana would be a
bit more exclusive, or you can try the option of artisanal dulce
de leche like Cabaa, Piedras Blancas or Minotauro. Although
there are many brands, dont worry, they are all really nice!

1. Some object or ritual that is famous in your country

People in Argentina love to learn about other countries, they
are very curious about other cultures. Perhaps in your country
there is a different activity you do during Christmas or New
Year? It could be a nice idea to share it with the people who
invited you to their celebrations. We love to hear stories of
what people do in their own homes, so tell us how your family
celebrate Christmas! If you want to prepare any typical
delicacies those are welcome too!

2. El Mate
This is a typical tea infusion from Argentina, most of the
people drink it in the morning, there are others who prefer it
in the afternoon with pastries, and there are some (although
fewer) people who drink mate at night. One recommendation
is that if you are going to bring mate to your country, you
must also buy the equipment, which includes a bombilla,
yerba
coffee, mint, orange peel, or I love it with honey! If you have

2. Wine, sparkling wine or something similar

During the holiday season in Argentina, it is common to make
toasts repeatedly. So it is never a bad idea to bring a bottle or
two! Here you have several options, either bring something
typical from your country, or ask what the people who invite
you like, or you could choose a nice sparkling wine - this is
one of the most traditional drinks in Argentina for a toast.
Dont forget that when you say Cheers in Argentina, you must
keep eye contact with them and say something like "I wish the

a mate article!
3. Wine Malbec of course
world. So it could be a good idea to bring a beautiful bottle of
wine home to your friends or family. Malbec is the variety that
has made Argentina famous for quality wines, so this could
be the best choice. There is a huge variety to choose from, so
take your time, taste lots of them and then choose!
4. Tango CD
There are a lot of people who travel to Argentina to see a
Tango Show or visit a traditional Milonga. Take a taste of
tango home with a CD. You can choose between traditional
sounds like Carlos Gardel, or the different style of Astor
Piazzola. There are also really good current day groups like
Color Tango or Narcotango. Listen to them, enjoy it and then
pick one.

3. Fun Activities
This suggestion is only recommend for get-togethers that
are not too formal, and in which there will be people that are
fun dont pick a conservative family otherwise you might
seem a little crazy! But if you have fun hosts, take them a fun
game from your country! Prepare your own props, and you
are guaranteed a memorable night!
4. Bring out your culinary side
It's a very kind gesture to bring something to a dinner that you
have made yourself. Take a dessert, or a typical recipe from
your country (which will also help you if you feel a bit
homesick). Remember that it is always worth asking the
sure everyone likes it.

BEYOND THE GIFTS, ACTIVITIES AND PARTIES ... DO NOT FORGET TO MAKE SPECIAL WISHES
FOR THE YEAR TO COME! MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!

28

ts that time of year again! To shed

the skin of your old self and clothe
oneself in the pelt of the new,
improved self. What is your achilles
squeeze into that tango skirt? Maybe
looking to pick up a new skill? Or hone
a talent to blow out the cobwebs of
tired routines and conversation? Helen
Appleby rounds up some of BAs top
spots to let loose on any New Years
Resolution.

1. GET FIT. LOSE WEIGHT

d get
- PERSONAL TRAINING - but lack the requisite self-discipline to put down the helado anmot
Want to tone your butt harassed and encouraged by a personal trainer to keep you ivated
off the sofa? Need to bee your goals?
and w ill
and on target to achiev explorer Mark Kalch who has kayaked the Amazon's length pla
in
Then you need championo shape. Sessions are efficient, effective and fun, taking ence
soon get you whipped int ul BA parks. Whether you want to lose weight, increase str gth or
your home or the beautifss Mark can train you to achieve your goals.
overall health and fitne
mark.kalch@gmail.com
www.markkalch.com
start running the streetsy
to
e
- CROSSFIT tim
st
be
the
be
not
ht
mig
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me
sum
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Whilst the sw eaty Portenseio ze
ity to do something aboutrentha
un
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that's no excus
Crossfit! The cur
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d
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rea
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tim
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It'
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you've been nurturin barrios of BA. Expect open plan, air conditioned spaces w the young
hitting the fashionable ting it out in intense cross training activities.
and beautiful of BA sw ea
la Crespo
www.crossfitunidos.com - Vilnto
wn
www.crossfitrex.com - Dow sfitRe
coleta - Recoleta
www.facebook.com/BiggCros
2 PICK UP A NEW HOBBY
gh- TANGO DANCING - here... and still not tried Tango? Come on! You don't need a thi
sses
How long have you beento enjoy the basics. You can even rock up alone and many cla
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d
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offer English instruction.o life. Many venues offer post-class practicas where you ma floor.
genuine slice of Porten haired divorcee who w ill artfully tw irl you round the dance bandolera
by an experienced silveralso offer classes of Salsa, Sw ing, F olklore, Rock n Roll if the
www.lavirutatango.com - : www.lacatedralclub.com
ain't your thing. Also try
fit and boost your
you
t
ge
,
life
- POLE DANCING te
va
pri
r
you
up
ce
spi
ill
w
by that
ping
Are you looking for a newncihob
. An underground craze swofeefun
you
for
er
sw
an
the
be
ht
too.
mig
ng
Da
self confidence? Pole is exhausting w ork using all over body strength but is a lot
through BA, pole dancing

30

s, while
strength training focused pclaitsse
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mor
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of burlesque to kee
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www.fitv
3. DETOX
lf up, cut out the carne
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you
- GO VEGGIE ce
jui
,
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llbe
we
to
te
rou
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siv
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F or those looking for a mor
body and polish the halo w out
the
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to
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tar
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and try some healt
ies? Vegan delights,
oth
smo
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an
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jui
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fru
sh
fre
nt
Wa
ran
breaking into a sw eat. the green stuff. Look no further than these cafe/restau ts
raw and creative use oftasty healthy food.
specializing in creative,
urant.com.ar
mala), P alermo. www.bioresta
ate
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Ca
Bio
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Are
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Naturaleza Sabia, Balcarce4,64San
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ale
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56
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Buenos A ires Verde,
4. BALANCE YOUR QI
ay of
centuries for a huge arrres
- ACUPUNCTURE for
d
use
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be
e
hav
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dic
Me
l
s?
rba
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Acupuncture and Chinese had a niggling health concern you have been meaning to add
ht be
health problems. Have you ? Issues w ith your skin or niggling back pain? Acupuncture mig
prick and a
Digestive issues? Fatiguehypodermic needles or fainting. Think tiny, imperceptible pinrst
and how
nk
de
the answ er. Don't thi floating aw ay into deep relaxation. You don't need to un
blissed out sensation of nefits. Strongly recommended!
it w orks to reap the be
ined in New York and takes a holistic
tra
o
wh
s
ire
A
os
en
Bu
re
ctu
pun
Acu
at
Try Lauren Dulberg
approach to your health. aires.com
www.acupuncturebuenos BA
Facebook.com/Acupuncture
5 LEARN A LANGUAGE
to imply you'd rather
s
pig
g
tin
ona
- WHERE TO LEARN SPAwNIithSH you
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imp
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hay
cas
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rse to brush up your Caste
If you're still grappling n maybe
cou
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sta
you
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tim
it's
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Feeling shy or short of tim
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6. LEARN A NEW SKILL
r
- INDIAN COOKERY COURcSEspi-ce in your life? When Preeti Salwar arrived from Mumbaihewrithowhe
Missing a bit of authentid by the lack of authentic tasting Indian food. So she set up one offn
partner she was shocke e how to cook spicy Indian food here in BA. Come along for a you get to
endeavor to teach peopl cook delicious lamb biryanis prawn tikkas and more. Best of all
course and learn how to ts home w ith you.
take your culinary effor ice
www.facebook.com/itsmysp
7. FIND INNER CALM
le
s chances are there is a sty
an
- YOGA me
ich
wh
BA
in
re
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e
hug
is
a
ic
yog
d,
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In case you hadn't noticeFro
and whether you want a mmorthe
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fro
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backgrounds
real difference to someonamazing hostel set up for orphans or children from difficult tak
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ool
who can't be w ith their g make a child's birthday a memorable time or helping w ith the
out on excursions, helpin amino.org.ar
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Or you could contribute youer bac
and pens to under-privileged kids.
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pad
ith
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en
lad
cks
kpa
vid
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Child to School) wh
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ires
ts around the country engag
Facebook.com/SACSBuenosA
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pro
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ren
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cha
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the
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the
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to
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pro
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around the cit
vulnerable groups in difr for
hts by signing up to walkcon
nig
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ltip
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or
ht
nig
one
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un
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efully generate a versation to
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t,
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a
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rm
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a
e
offering homeless peopl ards a better standard of living. www.fundacionsi.org.ar
help them take steps tow
Helen Appleby is a massage therapist and
yoga teacher who helps people reach some
omm in their own lives. Check out her blog at
www.onawingandaprayerblog.wordpress.
com or if you need to get your body relaxed
to a celestial state contact her for a massage
on hels22@hotmail.com

32

A HIKERS GUIDE TO ARGENTINA

THIS IS THE TIME OF YEAR THAT
EVERYONE IS LOOKING TO GET FIT AND
ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS, AND
ARGENTINA HAS PLENTY OF BEAUTIFUL
HIKING SPOTS THAT ARE IDYLLIC FOR
DOING JUST THAT. NOELLE SMITH
COUNTS DOWN THE TOP 5 PLACES TO
HIKE IN ARGENTINA.

great trails. Parque Nacional Calilegua is one of the most

accessible. Located in the subtropical zone, the park is much
greener than Cafayate. The park has something for everyone,
with short strolls as well as challenging full-day hikes. It is also
known for its extensive fauna, so take a few longer breaks
near streams to see what you can spot. For hikers looking for a
longer hike, a week-long trek from the parks western boundary
via the ancient Inca trails in the Sierra de Zenta will take you to
Humahuacha.

4 | CORDOBA

5 | SALTA AND JUJUY

Cafayate
Hikers often overlook the northern parts of Argentina, but the
provinces of Salta and Jujuy offer beautiful trekking through the
Andes highlands overlooking stunning rock formations and
distinct volcanoes. Since it will likely be hot when you visit,
hiking to a waterfall is always a crowd-pleaser. The Rio Colorado
runs about six kilometers outside of Cafayate, a town in the
southern part of the province of Salta. If you follow the river
upstream for about an hour and a half you reach a waterfall,
set in the scenic red rock of the Quebrada de Cafayate. You can
swim in this waterfall, and a second waterfall further up. For
more thirst quenching, make sure to stop by a winery in Salta,
as the region is famous for its unique torronts white wine.
The northern region is home to several national parks that have

Sierra Grande
The province of Cordoba is known for the Sierras Chicas and
Sierras Grandes mountain ranges that run through it. Although
much smaller than their Andean counterparts, the sierras have
their fair share of trails. To begin your hiking adventure, start out
in La Cumbrecita, a quiet little town in the Valle de Calamuchita.
The mountains surrounding La Cumbrecita are filled with
beautiful cascades and waterfalls, all accessible by short trails
from town. For those looking for a challenge, Cerro Champaqu,
the highest peak in the Sierras at 2790m, is close by and this
two-day trek offers unparalleled views of the Sierras. Many
guide companies also offer excursions up the mountain.
The Capilla del Monte area north of Cordoba is home to Cerro
Uritorco. This three to four hour hike is worth it for its natural

33

The most dramatic hiking destination in Argentina is Aconcagua.

At 6,962 meters (22,841 feet), it is the tallest peak not just in
all of the Americas but the tallest peak in the world outside of
the Himalayas. The mountain is located just 112 kilometers from
Mendoza, making it easy to access. The peak is an internationally

3 | BARILOCHE

Parque Nacional de los Glaciares

Laguna de los Tres - El Chalten

Located in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, the region is home to
countless lakes, lush forests, and spectacular mountains. From
Bariloche city center, you can easily access numerous hikes of
all difficulty levels. The Llao Llao loop combines beautiful views
of the lakes surrounding mountains, and is accessible by bus
(no. 20) towards Hotel Llao-Llao where you walk past the
Parque Municipal Llao-Llao headquarters towards Cerro LlaoLlao. You can combine the small peak with other nearby
attractions, such as Bosque de Arrayanes, Lago Escondido,
and Playa Moreno to make about a four-hour loop.
For hikers looking for a more adventurous experience, check
out the extensive system of refugios in the mountains around
Bariloche. Refugios are relatively cheap and offer a place to stay
as well as hot meals. Refugio Frey, which can be accessed by a
trail beginning at the Cerro Catedral ski area, is an ideal place to
begin your journey. From this lovely refugio, hikers can access
the high mountain area of Nahuel Huapi with various other
refugios. The Club Andino Bariloche, located in the center of
town can be helpful in selecting which specific circuit is best
for you.
Finally, if you are looking for a classic alpine experience with a
manageable amount of challenge, be sure to visit Cerro Lopez.
A steep, but well-maintained trail leads hikers to Refugio Lopez
(or take the dirt road by car). From there, a climbers trail goes
to the summit, which involves a bit of fun scrambling at the
end. From the summit, hikers are rewarded with spectacular
views of the surrounding area. Many hikers opt for this summit
as a more adventurous and equally spectacular alternative to
the touristy Cerro Campanario. After all that hiking youll deserve to indulge in the chocolate shops in Bariloche city!

34

In Patagonia, the desolate, wind-swept steppe gives way to

jagged, snow-covered peaks. The stunning scenery, combined
with an abundance of glaciers and lakes makes for a spectacular
- and vast - hiking destination. Patagonia is home to El Chaltn,
a small town at the foot of the mountains known at the hiking
capital of Argentina. It is a well-deserved name, as a plethora of
excellent trails depart directly from the town into Parque
Nacional de los Glaciares. While you are in El Chalten, you
cant miss Lago de los Tres, a small lake set at the base of
imposing Mount Fitz Roy (the inspiration for the outdoor
company Patagonias brand). The gradual ascent along the wellmaintained 12.5 km trek begins at a trailhead at the north end
of town. The last few kilometers of the trail are very challenging,
but the view at the top is well worth the climb.It would be
impossible to talk about hiking in Patagonia without mentioning
the W-Trek in Torres del Paine National Park. Although located
across the border in Chile, Torres del Paine is a classic
Patagonian destination and only 4 hours from El Calafate by
bus. The W-Circuit is a five to seven day loop that allows hikers
to see the most magnificent parts of Torres del Paine, and is
considered one of the best treks in the world. Refugios along
the way provide hot meals and lodging, although many hikers
choose to camp. Make sure to book well in advance though, as
spots fill up during high season. You dont have to do multiple
day hikes, there are plenty of look outs your can reach in just
one day too, and hotels in the park offer a warm bed to stay in.
And dont forget your wind jacket: Torres del Paine is known for
having wild windy days.

1 | ACONCAGUA

Aconcagua - Mendoza

acclaimed mountaineering destination, attracting world-class

climbers from around the world to attempt its blustery summit.
Climbing season on Aconcagua lasts from December through
March, although most climbers attempt the summit around
January. Summiting requires excellent physical condition, and
most climbers also utilize a guide service.
For those who want to see the mountain from a bit more of a
distance (and prefer to be able to breathe), Aconcagua Provincial Park offers beautiful day hikes, and multi-day treks, all with
breathtaking views of the mountain. For multi-day treks, hikers
can choose between the Horcones Valley and the Vacas Valley.
The park service issues permits for short (three day) treks
or long (seven day) treks, as long as the treks remain below
4,300m. Because of Aconcaguas popularity, the park service is
able to charge much higher prices for these permits. The price
tag for a high-season summit attempt for a foreigner is $650
USD, while three and seven day permits are $80 USD and $160
USD, respectively. If you wish to see the mountain for free,
there is a small loop you can do outside of the visitors center
that takes you to a few smaller lakes and affords great views
of the mountains. Although not the most economical hiking
option, Aconcagua is a must-visit destination for serious hikers
in Argentina.

HIKING ESSENTIALS

2 | PATAGONIA

Weather varies across the regions, so make sure you

check it out before you go. Youll need a wind jacket
for Patagonia, rain jacket for Bariloche and Cordoba,
professional mountaineering kit for Aconcagua and
sunscreen for every destination!
Always make sure you carry plenty of food and water.
Depending on the trail, you may be able to find water
along the way, but always treat it using a chemical
treatment such as AquaMira, or a filter.
Pick up a map at a local information center. Most of
these places will have some kind of visitor information
center with helpful maps available for free.
Dont forget your mate (traditional Argentine herb tea)
supplies! Nothing is better than a warm mate to share
with friends on top of a beautiful summit.

USEFUL LINGO!

beauty, but many visitors come for extra-terrestrial beauty as

this peak is known for frequent UFO sightings. Theories abound
as to thereason, ranging from a supposed mysterious
underground city to Holy Grail lore, but regardless of their
veracity, arriving at the summit is worth the visit (with or
without UFOs!)

Cunto falta? / How much further?

Sendero, picada, pista / Trail
Saco de dormir / Sleeping bag
La mochila / Backpack
Carpa / Tent
Cascada / Waterfall
Lago / Lake
Cumbre / Summit
Dnde puedo comprar una cerveza?
Where can I buy a beer?
Noelle Smith arrived in Argentina
earlier this year and has already
become a full-blown mate addict. As
well as enjoying a pot of mate with
friends she likes to explore the Andes
mountains and indulge in some of the
beautiful wine being produced here.

DESTINATION AWAY GUIDE / EL CALAFATE & TORRES DEL PAINE

EL CALAFATE //////////////////
When you arrive at this small boom
town, youd be forgiven for thinking
that El Calafate is oversold in the
guide books. The town is not quaint
nor particularly charming, but the
real attractions of El Calafate lie in
the great outdoors, exploring wild
estancia lands, the nearby national
park and the infamous Perito Moreno
glacier

DISCOVERING EL CALAFATE
There is something very comforting
about El Calafate as a base - its wide
gamut of accommodation, attractive
dining options and bustling shopping
street. In Summer El Calafate has a
buzz and the town fills with tourists.
Nearby attractions include the
glacier museum (5km out of town),
Glaciarium (Ruta 11, www.glaciarium.
com) where you can learn about the
history behind the big ice, and taste
a whisky on the rocks, or fernet and
cola, with glacier ice. The town is also
sat on a picturesque lake with lively
birdlife including pink flamingos at the
Nimez Reserve.
There are many nice hikes near
El Calafate, but it is mainly a base
to eat, drink, sleep and organize.
All the local tourism operators run
from here, its the transport hub
for the region, and you can find the
widest range of hotel and restaurant
offerings.

36

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Isabel, Cocina al Disco (Gob.
Moyano, corner of 25 de Mayo)
Serving up hearty portions of food
al disco, or cooked in a large, old
cart wheel, Isabel is one of the most
popular restaurants in town for its
warm atmosphere and good value.
Pick between the many ingredients
cooked in local beer or wine!
Los Ponchos Apart Hotel (Los
Alamos, Manantiales 3321, www.
losponchosapart.com.ar) Attractively
designed and with great views
over the lake, these well appointed
apartments are a great mid-budge
choice. Breakfast is brought to the
room and youre a 15 minute stroll
from the main town.
Posada Los Alamos (Ing. Hector
Mario Guiatti 1135, www.
posadalosalamos.com). Posada Los
Alamos offers a decent spa, pool
and games lawn to keep all the
family happy in this re-sort right in
the centre. Spacious rooms and a
massive breakfast will give you extra
energy to ex-plore.

ESTANCIA LIFE
Once you travel a few kilometers
out of El Calafate, youll find an
impressive solitude and wilderness
that few people live in. Beautiful
sweeping views of the mountain
and hillsides create canvasses of
watercolours ranging from pink and
purple to blue, green and grey. The
vastness is spellbinding, and it is only
interrupted by historic estancias of
cattle ranchers and cowboys.
Visiting an estancia can give you
an appreciation for the authentic
gaucho (an Argentine cowboy) way
of life: mainly outdoors, with many
lonesome hours, and first priority is
taking care of your land and animals.
If you are a keen horse rider, or want

to sheer sheep, this is the sort of

rural tourism experience for you. And
best of all is sharing a heart-warming
asado (BBQ) in the evenings.

on the decks in front or in boats

traversing the lakes, you can take an
excursion climbing along the ice in
cram-pons to dip into crevices and
walk through ice tunnels. Finish your
afternoon off with a whisky on the
glacier rocks!
78kms from El Calafate, Perito
Moreno can be visited on a full-day
tour package or by rented car.

WHERE TO STAY
Nibepo Aike (www.nibepoaike.com.
ar) In the park, this estancia has its
fair share of solitude but you are
always accompanied by a set of
trusty steads and you can muck in
with all the rural activities to get a
taste of real gaucho life.

climbing glaciers

EOLO (www.eolo.com.ar) If you

dont want to rough it in a real
estancia, EOLO is the poshest option
in the region with Relais Chateaux
status and a handsome lodge to rest
between activities.

PERITO MORENO
There is no experience quite as
mesmerising as staring onto the
crumbling wall of Perito Moreno
glacier. As you face this white, frozen
giant that snakes its way through
dark, dense forests, it almost feels
like a conversation with the glacier
as it murmurs, grumbles and cracks
in front of you, occa-sionally spitting
out large chunks of ice that create a
thunderous crash as they fall into the
turquoise waters below.

Glacier Perito Moreno

TORRES DEL PAINE //////

sheep history at the old Frigorfico

Puerto Bories, a national monument
now known as The Singular. This
post-Victorian cold-storage plant
still has original features you can
visit along with the museum and its
collection of machinery brought from
England in the early 20th century.
The old wool hanger still has wisps
of wool hanging from the rafters and
old photographs of the sheep plant
in full swing when 600 sheep were
processed a day, frozen and shipped
to England.
The Bories plant had its own railway
line which brought workers (up
to 400 in its prime) from Puer-to
Natales daily to the port, the town
was originally populated because of
the company. The original building is
just on the outside though, inside it
is a luxurious and stylish hotel also
boasting a top res-taurant serving
local delicacies like llama with mote,
and rich crab stew.
Walking towards the city, youll find
colourful seaside houses and sleepy
plazas. There isnt too much to do in
Puerto Natales, although this is the
spot to organise your tours, trips and
expeditions into Torres del Paine.

Puerto Natales

Just 4 hours over the border in Chile

lies another outstanding place of
natural beauty: the Torres del Paine.
You can drive over, or take a bus to
the closest settlement to the park,
the pretty port side town of Puerto
Natales.

Torres del Paine

WHERE TO STAY
The Singular (www.thesingular.com)
Historical, tasteful and excellently
executed - the Singular is a world
class experience. Rooms look straight
out onto the ltima Esperanza sound,
and the restaurant takes you back to
a by-gone era of elegance.

It is easy to see why Perito Moreno is

the unmissable highlight for anyone
in Patagonia. It really is awe-inspiring.
And if you cant get enough of the
glacier from just a visual appreciation

VISITING PUERTO NATALES

The small town of Puerto Natales is
a historic sheep farm settlement and
you can learn about its il-lustrious

KAU (www.kaulodge.com)
An affordable and attractive option
right on the waterline, KAU is a
boutique hotel with well-appointed,
modern rooms and an excellent

coffee shop downstairs making the

best brew in town.

VISITING THE TORRES DEL

PAINE PARK
The highlight of any trip to this part
of the world are the Torres del Paine.
Translating as towers, this stunning
rock formation is mountainous and
towering. One of the most unique
geographical spots in the world,
Torres del Paine is a result of millions
of years of an interplay between
water, wind, fire and eruptions.
In the middle of a large National
Park with outstanding beauty spots,
geological interest and abundant wildlife (including guanacos,
condors, and even the most elusive
puma), a trip to the park is a real
delight. Although the high point is
undoubtedly looking onto these
majestic mountains with sheer rock
faces and steeples of stone. The
cuernos (or horns) are in the center
of the park with contrasting black,
grey and brown offering a feast of
colours as the sun rises, sets, and
picks up dif-ferent tones from the
rapidly changing cloud formations. To
the right side are the infamous Torres
(towers), infamous for being almost
enigmatic in their appearance, easily
disappearing into clouds with the
changeable Patagonian weather.
Hiking around the base of the Torres
and Cuernos is a breathtaking
experience (see our Hiking Guide,
page 33) with hanging glaciers,
iceberg-dotted lakes and dark forests
as some of the many attractions en
route.
Visit the park by staying in a hotel or
camp sites dotted around the park,
or stay further afield and visit on a
day tour or private trip (115kms from
Puerto Natales). There is a wide
range of activities on offer including
kayaking around icebergs, walking
over glaciers, boat excursions, and
horse rid-ing.

WHERE TO STAY
Explora (www.explora.com)
With the best location in the park,

37

PREPARING FOR
PATAGONIA
You get to Argentina and quickly
realize that theres more to this
country than just cafes, parillas, and
tango. In fact, just a short plane ride
or a 24-hour bus ride away from your
hotel in Buenos Aires are some of
the best places on earth for trekking,
hiking, and adventuring. But what
do you do if you didnt think to pack
your trekking poles, hiking boots, or
a warm jacket? If you find yourself in
this situation, have no fear, because
BA is full of great shops that can
prepare you for just about any
adventure.
BA is not the cheapest place to
buy clothing for outdoor gear, but
its definitely more affordable here
than in the small touristy towns
just outside the popular trekking
destinations. Scope out BAs great
selection of outlet stores, which
often offer 30-60% discount. Try
Av. Crdoba (between 4000 and
5200 blocks) where stores include
Nike and Adidas for basic, versatile
clothing for a physically active trip;
and Montagne, an outdoor gear
and ski shop with more rugged
equipment better suited for
mountaineering trips.

38

HOW TO GET HERE

Fly directly to El Calafate from
Aeroparque on a 3 hour flight with
Aerolineas Argentinas (www.
aerolineas.com.ar), or catch a
combination of buses passing
through Rio Gallegos (www.
andesmar.com).

Another place to get the most for

your dollar is the Aguirre district in
Villa Crespo. Open 7 days a week,
and nestled just south of Palermo
Soho, there are a number of solid
outdoor gear brands like Columbia
and North Face. Staff are accustomed
to helping gringos prepare for trips
west to Patagonia and south to
Ushuaia and can help select the right
jacket or fleece for layering when
it gets cold in Bariloche, at the top
of Fitz Roy, or while walking on the
glacier at El Calafate.
Buenos Aires is unique because
similar types of shops tend to cluster
in certain neighbourhoods. For
example, the yarn district is located
in Villa Crespo on Av. Ral Scalabrini
Ortiz. While you puzzle over the fact
that yarn has its own district, you can
rest assured that camping gear does
too. Probably due to the number of
tourism/travel guide shops located
downtown, the area between Av.
Santa Fe and Av Corrientes, Calle
Carlos Pellegrini and Calle Florida is
filled with outdoor gear shops. The
benefit of shopping at these stores
is the convenience factor - housing
a variety of local and international
brands under one roof, you can
easily compare products and buy
all your gear in one go. Try Alpes
Camping Ski (ACS), Camping Center
SA, Depor Camping, EuroCamping,

Amanda Barnes
is a British
travel and wine
writer based in
South America.
She spent two
months of 2014
traversing glaciers and tucking into
llama steak with a glass of Patagonian
wine, and is eager to return pronto.
www.amandabarnes.co.uk
amanda_tweeter

Tierra (www.tierrahotels.com)
Its sleek design nestles into the
surroundings but inside Tierra opens
up to maximise the stunning location
on Sarmiento Lake overlooking the
Torres. Great excursions, a top spa
and the chance of spotting pumas
from your bedroom window make
Tierra a superb choice.

Rio Serrano (www.hotelrioserrano.cl)

For a more affordable option, Rio
Serrano has comfortable rooms
looking from a distance onto the
Paine and is on an old cattle ranch
settlement. Accommodation is
simple but the new chef is anything
but, serving great fusion food.

Photos by Amanda Barnes

and Riback (just to name a few). But

wait! What about that brand named
after Argentinas famous mountain
region? That would be Patagonia - the
environmentally friendly mountaineer
clothing brand - and they are also
located in the BA camping district.
Check them out at Suipacha 1178 for
high end, socially responsible outdoor
clothing.
No matter the intensity of your trek
or outdoor experience in Patagonia,
Buenos Aires has the products you
need to be prepared for all types of
adventures. Check out any of the
stores listed above and get your next
journey underway today.
Lauren Miner is a writer and consultant
from the US living in Argentina. She
enjoys sushi, dance, yoga and travel,
and you can read about her attempts
at healthy living while in the land of
empanadas at Active Expat
www.activeexpat.com

right on top of a babbling waterfall,

Explora Hotel looks straight onto the
Cuernos and is idyllic to wake up
and fall asleep to. An excellent spa,
a fabulous estancia and adventure
programs crossing from El Calafate
make it a once-in-a-lifetime hotel.

Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza,

pasta and parilla! There is so much more
to Buenos Aires food scene though and
this is a quick glance guide to some of the
gastronomy gems you can discover in the
city. Dont forget that Argentineans dine late
at night with most restaurants not opening
much before 8pm and often still serving till
gone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm.
CAF SAN JUAN
Chef

Leandro

Cristobal

is

skater

$
$ $
$ $ $
$ $ $ $

$
$
$
$
$

0 / 75
75 / 150
150 / 225
225 / 300
over 300

Pesos per person for average meal (main

+ starter/dessert, excluding drinks)

lights and tempting wafts of steaming

tacos will knock you over as you wander
past this popular Palermo taco joint, and

PRICE GUIDE

RESTAURANT GUIDE

but the Museo have brought in different

delicious jamones as well as salami and
chorizo, and even the odd bottle of Spanish
vino

why it pulls in a crowd. Soft corn tacos

but adventurous dishes. With the menu
scrawled on chalkboards and changing on
an almost daily basis, this has become a
much so that a spin off sister restaurant
has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La
Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical
Argentine dishes with a twist served in a
relaxed setting in a retro-style diner.
Caf San Juan, San Juan 450 (between
Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 43001112. Reservations recommended. Open
Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$
FUKURO
and great sticky buns, Fukuro is the place.

sauces to pick between: from Argentine

mild to kick-you-in-the-mouth picante!
with a post-party crowd just desperate for
La Fabrica del Taco, Gorriti 5062,
Palermo Soho. (11) 4832 0815. www.
fabricadeltaco.com Tues-Sun Midday
2am (closed 6-7pm) $$

pastas and paella, and one of their house

specialties is suckling pig. The modern
Puerto Madero location is perfect for a
harbor side walk afterwards.
Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau de
Justo 2020 (near Cochabamba), Puerto
Madero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch
& dinner. $$$$
DON JULIO
A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, Don

SARKIS
Serving food as if it were in Armenia,
and un-translated menus to match, this is
a great spot for those on a budget who
want to taste some proper Middle Eastern
food. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bit

rich, savory and thick Ramen noodle

soup, sweet and sour steamed pork
buns, and the fresh and succulent gyozas.
Accompany your meal with artisan beer or
saki, and leave room for seconds.
Fukuro Noodle Bar, Costa Rica 5514,
Palermo Hollywood. (11) 3290 0912 TuesSat from 8pm. $$

date but it will keep you happy with its

keppe, big portions and unpretentious

BELLAGAMBA

Had enough meat? Need to get back to

the green stuff? This is your place. A raw
food, vegan and vegetarian hangout you

Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufr and

Lerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Open
daily Lunch & Dinner. $

for visiting the city and with packed tables

almost every night you can see why. This
traditional restaurant serves perfectly
cooked slabs of beef that will please any
meat lover like a pig in muck. The wine
trained servers will also be able to help you
pick out a top choice Malbec to go with

displayed around the restaurant.

Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (corner
Gurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564.
Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$

BUENOS AIRES VERDE

EL BAQUEDANO

(tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of the

most centrally located ones still sending out
milanesas and jugs of wine at lunch time
the same way it did since opening in 1900.
and a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere.
Cheap, cheerful and authentic.
Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Junin
and Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833.
Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$
LA FBRICA DEL TACO
quick and fast, the Fabrica del Taco is the
place to head for a casual night of decent
Mexican tacos and dirty margaritas. Bright

40

good again. Their wheatgrass shots, raw

cupcakes and seaweed cannolis have
built up quite a fan base. Even the wine is
organic, making this a sin free dining spot.
Buenos Aires Verde, Gorriti 5657 (between
Fitz Roy and Bonpland), Palermo (11) 4775
9594. Mon Sat, 9am till late. $$
MUSEO DEL JAMON
This really is a museum to the glory of
jamn, with cured ham legs swinging
from the rafters that have come from
high quality producers in Argentina and
specialized producers from the mecca of
jamn
tough to get your hands on in Argentina,

While carne is king in Argentina, there are

some other carnes that often get neglected
while all eyes are on the revered cow. This
restaurant celebrates all the other meats of
Argentina: llama, chinchilla, wild boar, rheas
Fernando Rivarola who is championing the
culture and he does it with great style in
a seven course tasting menu or a la carte.
El Baquedano, Chile 495 (corner of Bolivar),
San Telmo (11) 9 3671 8602. Dinner Tues
Sat. $$$$$

El gin artesanal argentino

necesitaba una tonica
artesanal que le haga
compaia.

conocelos a los dos en la casa

de su creador tato giovannoni.
floreria atlantico - arroyo 872
2013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean

BAR & CAF GUIDE

BEBOP
Buenos Aires compared to other world

The nickname of a city that doesnt sleep doesnt come

nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for a
few cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub.
Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am for
nightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughout
the city your night can start relatively early. There is an
exhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is a
selection of different types of bars to get you started.
FLORERIA ATLANTICO

CAF MARGOT

Spanish sherry, French cognac and English

Earl Grey. A creative and cool spot for those
who really know their booze.
Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (between
Suipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 4313
6093. Mon Sat, 10am 3am

A real treasure, Caf Margot has a history

stretching back to 1904 and a step into this
bar/caf feels like a step back into history
with dusty bottled lined walls and lots of
olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewed
here each morning and their homebrew is
served throughout the week, as is decent
bar food. The waiters will rave about their
turkey which is served in countless
sarnies here and actually claim to have
invented the turkey sandwich (just go along
with it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee and
step back into a different century.
Caf Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of San
Ignacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8am
till late.

LATTENTE

SKY BAR

Lattente has been training baristas in

Buenos Aires for a couple years now and is
one of the best sources of good beans and
great coffee in the city. With a quick service

The best known rooftop bar in the city, Sky

wine shop-cum-record store has to be one

of the more unique entrances for a bar, and
bar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned by
a top mixologist and a super sommelier,
the drinks here are to die for of course,
as are the tapas and food. Dedicated to

you can get it how you like it and sit down

for a moment of respite at their newspaper
and magazine covered coffee tables. Adding
another tempting treat to the mix, there is
often a man just outside selling proper
LATTEnTE, Thames 1891, Palermo. (11)
4833 1676. Mon-Sun 9/10am 8pm.

the city centre making it ideal for reaching

some cooler Summer air and enjoying a
view over the night city lights. A popular
a couple cocktails at sunset, although the
DJ plays well into the night too.
Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (corner
of Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Daily
after 5pm.
REY DE COPAS

ANTARES
Antares is one of the safest options with a
nationwide chain of micro breweries. With
a couple locations around the city, you can
stop in for a honey beer or cream stout in
Palermo where the impressive 10ft tall kegs
hang over the bar giving it a trendy New
York feel to it. As well as different pints, and
even a beer tasting option, Antares serve
hearty bar food all evening.
Antares: Armenia 1447, Palermo; Arevela
2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo.
Daily from 7pm till late.

44

copper-splashed walls and pillow covered

couches, Rey de Copas is a seductive spot
to quaff a couple chic cocktails. There is a

PUERTA UNO

LIVERPOOL

Once a secret bar, the secret is pretty much

out now about Puerta Uno but it still has
that underground vibe as you turn up to the
unmarked door and should remember the

Although the thought of Beatles

paraphernalia might make you cringe, this
Brit pop themed bar actually hosts some
pretty decent live bands. With a proper
stage equipped for musicians, most nights
you get a band play and afterwards it turns
into a nightclub.

week. BeBop is a stylish basement jazz

bar with live jazz, blues, soul and pop
bands every night of the week and twice
on Fridays and Saturdays. An intimate, low
light setting with personal lampshades is a
throw back to the jazz bars of the 1920s.
The bar list has classic cocktails and a short
but sweet collection of wines and beers,

just in case. Once in, the bar opens up to

a series of patios with evolving decoration
and a DJ keeping the atmosphere buzzing.
Cocktails are the order of the night and the
barmen do some convincing sake and fruit
potions.
Puerta Uno, Juramento 1667 (corner of
Arribeos), Belgrano (Barrio Chino). (11)
4706 1522. Tues Sat after 9pm.

ASIA DE CUBA

evening with something more substantial,

GRAN BAR DANZON

in Puerto Madero. After over a decade on

the nightclub scene it is no longer the hot
ticket it used to be, but Asia de Cuba still

Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (between

Cordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11)
5355 7632. Mon Sat nights.

This nightclub still remains one of the

hundreds of wines and excellent food.

BeBop, Moreno 364, San Telmo. (11) 4331
3409.www.bebopclub.com.arTues-Sat
8.30pm-late.
FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE

PAIN ET VIN

is one of the better coffee joints in town.

Whether you like it strong and black,
with just a lgrima (literally just a drop) of
coffee in a pot of frothy milk, or you want

bottle, of wine with a hunk of proper bread

this is your kind of joint. Specializing in two
of the greatest gifts in life bread and wine
this sunny spot in Palermo is popular as a
bar, lunch spot (try the hearty sandwiches)

the well trained barristas know what they

stack of magazines and newspapers as well
as a decent Colombian-style breakfast to
while away an hour or two. They also run
private coffee classes.
Full City Coffee House, Thames 1535,
Palermo Soho. (11) 4833 6774. Tues Sun.

outside in a patio if you want fresh air too.

Pain et Vin, Gorriti 5132, Palermo. (11)
4832 5654. Tues Sun 12 - 10pm (7pm on
Sundays)

One of the stalwarts of the bar scene,

favourites since forever and everyone stays
throughout the night for the good food,
cool music and beautiful people. A bustling
atmosphere and usually packed with people
it is above ground level in the Recoleta
neighbourhood.
Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161 (between
Santa Fe and Arenales), Recoleta, (11) 4811
1108, open daily from 7/8pm

a healthy mix of tourists who love the

waterfront location, decent drinks and the
opportunity to dress to the nines. There is
also a sushi restaurant if you want to graze
During the weekdays it is also open as a
lunchtime restaurant, with a Happy Hour
4pm till 8pm.
Asia de Cuba, Pierina Dealessi 750 (corner
of Macacha Guemes), Puerto Madero. (11)
4894 1328. Nightclub open Wed Sat from
9pm.

CELEBRATING 200 YEARS

OF EL FEDERAL

GIBRALTAR
came to life in a bustling music and culture
festival to celebrate 200 years of one of
this English-style pub is remarkably popular
with locals too. The bar menu is comfortbangers and mash, and homemade curries.
Best of all, they serve food all day from 12
till 2am meaning you can soak up the extra
pints at any hour while the cider, beer and

Federal. With a festival of live music and

literary readings, Sunday 9th November
marked not only this epic anniversary
week in the Historical Quarter of the city.
Keep your eyes on the website www.
losnotables.com.ar for future events.

want cocktails, look somewhere else, but if

you want a proper pub in San Telmo the
Gibraltar is it.
Gibraltar, Peru 895 (corner of Estados
Unidos), San Telmo. (11) 4361 5310. Daily,
midday till late.
SR DUNCAN
A converted mansion with a penchant for
swing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan is

a drink on the list to please your palate,

and if you get the nibbles they serve neat
atmospheric, but the candlelit terrace is the
place to be on warm summer evenings.
Rey de Copas, Gorriti 5176, Palermo Soho.
(11) 268 5220. Tues Sat evenings.

get tango, jazz, swing and anything else

that has continued to sound good over the
last few decades. Even the prices hark back
to a time before.
La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832
(between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo,
(11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues Sat. Check
out their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings.

45

If you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitants
and a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground
that is Buenos Aires -

Interview by
HELEN APPLEBY

Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that buses
arent cash friendly, youll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) or
get an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale at
www.sube.gob.ar
planner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar
critiquing and praising the bus drivers personalized dcor and memorabilia at the front of the
bus.

Helen Appleby is a yoga teacher,

massage therapist, writer and
mother of two young boys. You
can follow her blog at
www.onawingandaprayerblog.
wordpress.com

PLAYGROUND T IPS

The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day.
Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBE
card (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days.
Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate
the personality of porteos and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that you
otherwise might not. Do however take care and dont walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walk
in areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion,
Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearing
There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get your

Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from
the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economic
way without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www.
minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Per,Av.
Belgrano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there.
If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contacting
www.qrvtransportes.com.ar
The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough with
illegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simpleminded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get
targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves.
Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare
in an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) or
Hospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, often
better healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.

TELL ME ABOUT YOUR ANCESTORS.

On my father's side I have Basque origins and Italian on
my mother's side.
I think the combination of different origins that comprise
our identity makes for an interesting mix: Mixing our ethnic
American roots w ith the arrival of the Spanish colonizers and
then European immigrants. F or this reason BA has a South
American touch w ith its entrenched traditions but at the
same time w ith a European style - modern and cosmopolitan.
WHAT ARE YOU DOING TODAY?
I make and decorate toys and children's furniture out of
w ood. We are bringing back the toys from the past, which
were w ooden, durable and lasted a lifetime.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT BA?

I love my city, its architecture, parks, neighbourhoods and urban
tribes. I never tire of walking through Buenos A ires, there is
always something new to discover: a secret passage, an old
confiteria, a great w ork of art, street artists... Buenos A ires is like
a w oman, beautiful, exotic and modern, full of personality. They
say she never sleeps and it is true: at all hours and whatever
day there are always lights on and a corner of the city awake
somewhere. There are a plethora of cultural activities to choose
from; cinemas, theatres, bars and restaurants. It is impossible to
get bored here.
DEFINE PORTENO.

There is a Porteno style, easy to recognise in every part of the

w orld. They say that we have a unique way of speaking, almost
like singing; we're funny and kind. The Porteno is a mix of farmer
and chatterbox. Friendly, good w ith w ords, funny and effusive.
WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO RELAX?
Sometimes we are criticised for being proud, thinking that we know
What I enjoy the most when I want to relax is being close everything and invented everything. Our soul is united by football,
national rock, milonga, bodegas, mates and asados!
to nature. Only a few kilometres out of the city you are
greeted by another landscape: green horizons, colourful fields
ANY RECOMMENDATION FOR FOREIGNERS?
and animals. Buenos A ires province is full of rural folk w ith
stories, shops and inhabitants who magically fulfil their gaucho
I think foreigners w ill find it a culturally rich city w ith attractive
tradition.
and good humoured inhabitants. W ith a broad circle of entertainment,
from theatres and restaurants to Porteno neighbourhoods to exploYOU HAVE DECIDED TO MOVE TO THE COUNTRY NEXT
YEAR. MANY PORTENOS SEEM TO HAVE A STRONG CONNECTION re. The streets of Buenos A ires talk of traditions, dances, customs
and passions.
TO 'EL CAMPO' ...DISAPPEARING EVERY WEEKEND OR ON
HOLIDAYS TO ESCAPE THE CITY. TELL ME ABOUT THAT.
THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG SENSE OF COMMUNITY HERE.
WHY DO YOU THINK THAT IS?
Next year I am moving to Gualeguay in Entre Rios. My
boyfriend is an agricultural engineer and we have decided to
Yes I think there is a great feeling of community and a strong
base our life far from the city. A s much as I adore my city,
now I am thinking about my future and children, I w ould like respect for our identity. We embrace who we are w ith all the
to give them green spaces where they can run freely; where good and the bad! Argentine blood flow s strongly through our veins
and we raise our flag w ith much pride! How we say in a national
they can grow in touch w ith nature and animals.
rock song 'La Argentinidad al palo!'

47

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GREEN SPACES

WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES

ALMAGRO
Las Violettas Rivadavia 3899
BALVANERA
Sabor a Tango Pern 2535
BELGRANO
Sucre bar Sucre 676
BOEDO
Caf Margot Boedo 857
CENTRO
Alvear Art Hotel Suipacha 1036
Amerian BA Park Hotel Reconquista 699
Casacalma Hotel Suipacha 1015
Celta Bar Sarmiento 1701
Complejo Tango Avda Belgrano 2608
Dante Boutique Hotel Cochabamba 514
Design CE Hotel de Diseo
Marcelo T de Alvear 1695
Design Suites Buenos Aires
M. T de Alvear 1683
Dolmen Hotel Suipacha 1079
Down Town Matias Reconquista 701
Floreria Atlantico Arroyo 872
Gran Bar Danzon Libertad 1161
Gran Cru Rodriguez Pea 1886
Gran Hotel Hispano Avda de Mayo 861
Hotel Boutique Bonito BA Chile 1507
Jack the Ripper Libertad 1275
La Fresque Hotel Boutique
Avda de Mayo 984
Le Choix des Vins Posadas 1166
Le Vitral Buenos Aires Ayacucho 277
Mayflower Suites Paran 720
Museo de la Ciudad Defensa 219
Play Juncal 1472
Plaza San Martn Suites Suipacha 1092
Recoleta Hostel-Hostel Int.
Libertad 1216
Reconquista Garden Esmeralda 675
Rooneys Hotel Boutique
Sarmiento 1775
Serena Hotel Libertad 1617
SF Suites Avda Santa Fe 1188
Tanguero Boutique Hotel Suipacha 780
MICROCENTRO
Bridge Language School Tucuman 633
BsAs4U Travel agency Lavalle 900
MONSERRAT
Aldos Moreno 372
Bebop Club Moreno 364
Caf Tortoni Av. De Mayo 825
Reino del Plata Hipolito Yrygoyen 647
Two Hotel Buenos Aires Moreno 785
PALERMO
1555 Malabia House Hotel B&B
Malabia 1555
248 Finisterra Bez 248
5411 Soho Hotel Spa Thames 1565
Adorado Nicaragua 5856
Alaire Terrace Bar Gurranchaga 1509
Amasoho Hostel Darragueyra 2317
Antares Las Caitas Arevalo 2876/8
Argentine Experience Fitz Roy 2110
Atempo Design Hotel Arvalo 1564
Awwa Suites & Spa Lafinur 3370
Ayres de Espaol Gurruchaga 1851
Ba Sohotel J. Luis Boges 2205
Back in BA Hostel El Salvador 5115
Bangalore Humboldt 1416
Bar Botola Gurruchaga 1795
Bar Du March Nicaragua 5946
Be Hollywood Hunboldt 1726
Bellini Boutique Hotel Cabello 3780
Bicicleta Naranja Nicaragua 4825
Birkin Republica Arabe Siria 3061
Blue Soho Hotel El Salvador 4735
Bobo Hotel Guatemala 4882
Bocca il Lupo Bonpland 1965
Boho Rooms Uriarte 1389
Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581
Bolivia Nicaragua 4908
Bortola Classic Gurruchaga 1806
Burger Joint Borges 1766
Cabrera Garden Boutique Guest House
Cabrera 5855
Chipper Humbolt 1893
Coco Cabello 3794
Cocu Malabia 1510
Crack Up Libros / Bar Costa Rica 4767
Croque Madame Cafe (Museo de Arte
Decorativo) Av Callao 1569
Decata Honduras 6100
Divina Bolivia Costa Rica 4670
Dogo Hostel Jos Antonio Cabrera 4716
Eco Pampa Hostel Guatemala 4778
El Frances cafe Gorriti 5099
El Tejano Honduras 4416
El Ultimo Beso Nicaragua 4880
Fierro Hotel Boutique Soler 5862

Francesco Restaurant Soler 5598

Full City Coffee House Thames 1535
Giramondo Hostel Bar Guemes 4802
Godoy Cruz Suites Godoy Cruz 2459
Grand Caf Basavilbaso 1340
Green Bamboo (Vietnamita)
Costa Rica 5802
Guaresnei Nicaragua 5802
Guido Blvd. Cervio 3943
Guidos Bar Republica de la India 2843
Helena Cafe Nicaragua 4816
Home Buenos Aires Hotel
Honduras 5860
Hostel Suites Palermo Charcas 4752
Hotel Boutique Purobaires
Niceto Vega 4788
Ilum Hotel El Salvador 5726
Jam Suites Malabia 1442
Jardn Escondido Gorriti 4746
Krista Hotel Bomplant 1665
Museo Evita Restaurante
J.M. Gutierrez 3926
LHotel Palermo Thames 1562
La Alacena Gascon 1401
La Boussole Gascon 1346
La Pescaderita Humbolt 1905
Lattente Thames 1891
Le Pain Quotidien Armenia 1641
Legado Mtico Buenos Aires
Gurruchaga 1848
Libro del Pasaje Thames 1762
Lo de Joaquin Alberdi
J. Luis Borges 1772
M Palermo El Salvador 5783
Magdalenas Party Bar
Thames 1795
Magendie Honduras 5900
Malambo Thames 2098
Malvon II Lafinur 3275
Maria Flix Guatemala 5200
Marks Deli & Coffee House
El Salvador 4701
Mine Hotel Boutique Gorritti 4770
Miravida Soho Wine Bar
Darragueyra 2050
More More Pastry Shop
El Salvador 5721
Moving Bike
Muu Lecheria Armenia 1810
Noa Noa Lofts Bonpland 1549
Nuss Buenos Aires Soho
El Salvador 4916
Olaya Humboldt 1550
Olivas Soler 5700
Olivetti Rep. Arabe de Siria Y Cervio
Oui Oui Nicaragua 6068
Oums cafe & Deli Armenia 1595
Own Palermo Hollywood
Jose Cabrera 5556
Pain & Vin Gorriti 5132
Palermitano Hotel Uriarte 1648
Palermo Place Nicaragua 5865
Palermo Soho Hostel Nicaragua 4728
Palermo Suites Apart
Fray Justo S. Maria 2529
Palermo Tower Charcas 5955
Pani Palermo Hollywood
Nicaragua 6044
Pepe Cantero (Main Store)
Honduras 4845
Pepe Cantero (Outlet) Girruchaga 721
Picnic Cervino 3596
Pollock Hotel Boutique Costa Rica 4754
Post Street Bar Thames 1885
Prodeo Hotel Lounge Gorritti 5374
QArte Galleria Humbolt 1981
Real Revolution Honduras 5143
Rendez Vouz Hotel Bonpland 1484
Rio Cafe Honduras 4772
Road2Argentina
Pasaje Santa Rosa 5038
Shanghai Dragon Aroz 1199
Soho Point Malabia 1577
Solar Soler B&B Soler 5676
Squizi Pizza a la Piedra Cabello 3601
Tea Connection Cervino 3550
The Factory El Salvador 4995
The Glu Hotel Godoy Cruz 1733
The Haig Humbolt 2060
The Pick Market Demaria 4527
Tienda de Cafe Baez 400
Tiendas Naturales Rep. arabe siria 3001
Torrecillas Soho Godoy Cruz 1655
Tre Design Apartments Migueletes 1773
Ultra Hotel & Bistro Gorriti 4929
Urban Station El Salvador 4588
Urbano Parrilla Honduras 5499
Vain Boutique Hotel Thames 2226

Van Koning bar Baez 325

Vitrum Hotel Gorriti 5641
Voltaire Angel Carranza1946
Voulez Bar Cervio 3802
Watt Market El Salvador 4622
PUERTO MADERO
Asia de Cuba Pierina Dealessi 750
Ayres de Patagonia
Alicia Moreau de justo 1798
Bar del PuentePierina Dealessi y Gorritti
Blakke Juana Manso 1580
Cabaa Las Lilas Alicia M. de Justo 516
Cuccina DOnore
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768
Cucina Donore Alicia M. de Justo 1768
DF Mexican Olga Cossettini 1611
El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel)
Martha Salotti 445
El nico Bar Juana Manso 1601
Estilo Campo Alicia M. De Justo 1840
Faena Hotel UniverseMartha Salotti 445
Freddo Juana Manso 1570
ICentral Market
P. Dealessi esq. M. Guemes
Itamae Sushi Olga Cosettini 1553
La Cabaa Alicia M. De Justo 380
La Parolacia Casa Tua
Alicia M. de Justo 276
La Parolacia del Mare
Alicia M. de Justo 1170
Lupita Mexican Bar
Olga Cossettini 1091
Museo del Jamn
Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020
Osaka (Faena Arts Center)
Juana Manso 1164
Patio JaponsJuana Manso y E. Escurra
Persicco Heladeria Juana Manso 1100
Rodizio Alicia M. De Justo 838
Siga La Vaca Alicia M. De Justo 1714
Simone Olga Cosettini esq. E. Escurra
Sushi Club Petrona Eyle 471
Sushi Club Alicia Moreu de Justo 286
Tres Quarts by Rodizio
Pierina Dealessi 1130
Winery Juana Manso y M. Guemes
RECOLETA
Alvear Palace Hotel Avda Alvear 1891
Anima Pea 2665
Art Suites Azcunaga 1465
Art Suites & Gallery Pea 2268
Ayres de Libertad Libertad 1283
Ayres de Recoleta Hotel Uriburu 1756
Casa Bar Rodrguez Pena 1150
Casa Sur Art Hotel Av. Callao 1823
Centro Cultural Junn 1930
Galera Rubbers Internacional
Avda Alvear 1595
Howard Jonhnson HB Pea 2049
Ih International House
Pacheco de Melo 2555
LoiSuites Recoleta Hotel
Vicente Lopez 1955
Mio Buenos Aires Hotel
Avda. Quintana 465
Pani Vicente Lpez 2056
Poetry Building Junin 1280
Recoleta Cemetery Azcunaga
Ulises Recoleta Suites Ayacucho 2016
Unique Art Ellegance
Avda. Pueyrredn 1940
Urban Suites Junin 1727
RETIRO
Basa Basavilbaso 1328
Farinelli Arroyo 900
Feirs Park Hotel Esmeralda 1366
Hotel Loi Suites Arenales Arenales 855
Sofitel Buenos Aires Arroyo 841
SAN CRISTOBAL
Bar de Cao
Av. Independencia 2400
SAN TELMO
America del Sur BA Hostel
Chacabuco 718
Antares Bolvar 491
Arribo Buenos Aires Per 291
Bar Defensa Defensa y Cochabamba
Bar del Filete Defensa 217
Bar Espresso
Av. Belgrano 402. Esq. Defensa
Bar Seddon Defensa 695
BE Hotel Buenos Ares Venezuela 649
Bicicleta Naranja Pasaje Giuffra 308
Bohemia BA Hotel B.Per 845
Brasserie Petanque Defensa 596
Buenos Aires Vintage
Caf La Poesa Chile 502

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Cafe Rivas Estados Unidos 302

Circus Hostel & Hotel Chacabuco 1020
Coffee Town Bolivar 976
Dazzler San Telmo Piedras 303
El Banco Rojo Bolivar 914
El Buzon Peru 608
El Federal Carlos Calvo 595
El Querandi Peru 302
Expanish Gral Juan Domingo 698
Gibraltar Per 895
Graffitimundo Carlos Calvo 736
Hostel Inn BA Humberto Primo 820
Hostel Tango Argentina Chacabuco 747
Hotel Babel Balcarce 946
Hotel Bolvar Bolvar 886
Hotel Patios de San Telmo
Chacabuco 748
Il Sorpasso Humberto Primo 478
Kenton Palace Buenos Aires
Defensa 383
La Casita de San Telmo
Cochabamba 286
La Morada H. Yrigoyen 778
La Panadera de Pablo Defensa 269
La Poesa Chile 502
La Puerta Rico Alsina 416
Lumio Caf Carlos Calvo 498
MACBA (Museo) Avda. San Juan 328
MAMBA (Museo) Avda San Juan 350
Mansion Dandi Royal Piedras 922
Mariposita Carlos Calvo 948
Moreno Hotel Moreno 376
Nueva Liberia Estados Unidos 301
Ostinatto Hostel Chile 680
Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 752
Perez H Defensa 435
Piedras Suites Piedras 908
Posada de la Luna B&B Per 565
Puerto Limon Chacabuco 1080
Pulperia Defensa 752
Ribera Sur Hotel Paseo Coln 1145
Sagardi Suites Humberto Primo 319
San Telmo Flats Piedras 990
San Telmo Luxury Suites Chile 437
Senor San Telmo Defensa 756, esquina
Pasaje San Lorenzo
Telmho Hotel Boutique Defensa 1086
TelmoTango Hostel Suites
Chacabuco 679
Tiana BA Humberto Primo 629
Urban Station San Telmo
Avda. San Juan y Chacabuco
Walrus Books Etados Unidos 617
Yauss! Estados Unidos 509
Zorzal Mane Petit Hotel
Humberto Primo 775
VILLA CRESPO
Malvon Serrano 789
Querido B&B
Juan Ramrez de Velazco, 934