CW5 Total

WC5
INTRODUCTION

AUTHOR: J. RANDLE

2005 Randle Design, LLC
All rights reserved
Wood Clock WC5 is the fifth of several wood clock designs developed by John Randle of Randle Design, LLC.
It is a revised version of clock WC2 which was built in the fall of 2003 and has been running continuously since
that time. It was designed specifically to be built by an amateur woodworker with a minimum number of tools.
The design is a bit different from traditional clock designs in that:

1) The escapement combines the pallet design of the traditional Graham deadbeat escapement used
on most good quality grandfather clocks with the pinwheel of the traditional pinwheel escapement.
This modified Graham escapement is easier to build than a traditional pinwheel escapement, and the
pins are less susceptible to wear and damage than sharp pointed wooden teeth which would be
required for a traditional Graham escape wheel.

2) The escape wheel only has fifteen pins causing it to rotate one revolution every 30 beats rather than
one revolution every 60 beats as do the escape wheels in most traditional clocks. The fifteen pin
design was selected because it allows the use of larger pallets without forcing escape wheel diameter
and inertia to be large.

3) The clocks power gear train has an extra gear to keep gear diameter and inertia small while allowing
the use of the faster escape wheel.

4) The clicks on the first arbor are engaged by gravity rather than by springs as in most clocks.

5) There is no maintaining spring on the first arbor to keep the clock running while it is being wound.
Because of the exposed gearing it is possible to keep the gear train loaded during winding without
using a spring. See the winding procedure in the installation instructions.

This package is made up of three sections which cover the fabrication, assembly and installation of the clock.
Also included is a complete set of full scale patterns to be used for laying out and fabricating the more intricate
parts. Each section includes a set of detailed instructions and suggestions aimed to make building the clock
easy even for someone with no previous experience with clocks.

Anyone interested in more information on clocks in general can learn much by searching the internet. Specific
questions about this clock can be addressed by emailing John Randle at woodclocks@charter.net.
WC5
PARTS FABRICATION

AUTHOR: J. RANDLE

All rights reserved
This section contains a complete list of the hardware and fabricated parts required to assemble clock WC5,
plus drawings of the individual parts. Also included is a list of suggested sources for all materials.

Clock WC5 was designed to be fabricated with as few shop tools as possible. Excluding the wall shelf, the
prototype for this clock was built with the following tools:

o A basic scroll saw with fine tooth blades and an assortment of scroll sanders.

o A drill press with a set of basic twist drills and a set of Forsner bits.

o A small belt/disc sander with 400 grit sanding medium.

o A turning lathe (useful for grooving rope pulleys but not absolutely necessary)

The wall shelf was designed to be fabricated with the tools available in the shop where the prototype was built.
Its design can be altered by the builder to use whatever tools are available.

Some of the drawings in this section contain all of the dimensions necessary to lay out the subject part. Others,
such as the wheel drawings, contain only basic dimensions. It is intended that the under-dimensioned parts be
fabricated using cutting patterns as laying them out accurately would be very difficult. Where noted the
drawings can be used as cutting patterns if they are printed to scale.

Listed below are notes and suggestions pertaining to the fabrication of some of the parts:

ARBOR SHAFTS The wooden arbor shafts are all designed to be made from good quality dowel stock.
Centering the holes in the ends of the shafts is important. A lathe with a headstock chuck and a tailstock drill
chuck would be handy here. Otherwise, you can make a clamp block similar to the one shown below.
Carefully align the hole in the block with your drill press chuck, clamp the block in place, and use it as a holder
for drilling the shaft end holes.
Typical Shaft Clamp Block

PINS The pins are all cut from brass rod. 360 H02 brass is soft and can be easily cut with a hacksaw then finish
sanded to length on a disc sander. Drilling a hole to a known depth in the end of a wooden dowel rod then
using the rod as a holder for sanding the short pins works well and saves fingers. The ends of the pins can be
chamfered while in the holder by holding them against a running sanding belt and spinning them between
your fingers. The actual size and angle of the chamfer isnt critical. A typical holder with pin inserted is shown
here. A holder will be needed for each pin diameter.
Typical Pin Holder w/Pin

ROPE SHEAVES All of the rope sheaves are designed to be sawn from single pieces of 12mm (15/32) thick
baltic birch plywood and grooved on a lathe faceplate. If no lathe is available the sheaves can be made by
cutting three pieces of 3mm (1/8) thick plywood to the proper diameter then gluing them together. The
grooves wont be tapered but the pulleys should work okay. Of course they will be only 9mm thick making it
necessary to shim them with washers at assembly.

2
DIAL A simple way to make the dial shown is:

1. Apply the full size adhesive backed pattern sections to plywood stock making sure the sections line up
properly at the pattern match lines.

2. Use an xacto knife to carefully cut away the pattern at the numbers and minute marks. Be careful to
not cut into the plywood.

3. Spray the cut out pattern with a good wood sealer. This is important to keep the number paint from
soaking into the plywood causing the edges of the numbers to be blurred.

4. Spray the numbers with a good gloss paint of your color choice. Several thin coats will be necessary
to hide the wood grain.

5. Cut out the dial and sand the cut edges.

6. Drill and countersink the screw holes. The screw centers are marked on the pattern.

7. Remove the pattern and clean up any rough edges.

8. Finish by spraying the entire dial with a good wood sealer.

FRAME POSTS The holes in these posts are to be drilled and tapped with the same taps used for tapping screw
holes in metal. Tapping holes in hardwood will provide a strong connection as long as you use coarse thread
taps. The necessary tap drills and taps can be bought at a number of places including your local building
supply.

PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE The upper end of the pendulum suspension spring (pin end) must fit snugly into the
slots in this part but not so snug that the spring cant rotate on its pin. Fit of this part should be checked and
adjusted as necessary during fabrication.

WHEELS If you look at the drawings closely you will note that the gear teeth on the wheels in the time train of
this clock (winding drum to escapement) have an epicycloidal profile on one face and are straight on the
other face. The epicycloidal (front) face is the working face and must be cut accurately. The back face does
not touch anything and is simply cut away for clearance. Cutting away the unused back face makes the
teeth simpler to cut and provides more clearance to compensate for small errors in tooth layout. Because of
the difference in the profile of the front and back faces, the gear teeth must be oriented as shown if the clock
is to run properly.

The wheels not in the time train i.e. WHEEL T-HR, WHEEL T-INT & WHEEL T-6 have epicycloidal faces on both sides
of their teeth. The reason is that these wheels run slack (no load), and backlash here will cause the hour hand
and second hand to be loose.

All of the wheels are drawn as single parts but are actually composites of several pieces of plywood glued
together. The recommended procedure for making WHEEL T-1 is:

1. Apply the furnished wheel pattern to a piece of plywood of the proper thickness.

2. Drill the center hole with a Forsner bit. A Forsner bit creates a cleaner hole than a twist drill would
create. The hole center is clearly marked on the pattern.

3. Cut out the gear blank along its outside diameter. Do not try to cut the teeth yet.

4. Center punch the remaining holes marked on the pattern.

5. Use an xacto knife to carefully cut away the pattern along the profile of each gear tooth. This step
may look useless, but if it is skipped all of the drilling, sawing, and sanding around the teeth will cause
the pattern to come loose making it difficult to properly finish the part.

6. Carefully drill a hole at the root of each tooth. You will have to use a twist drill here because Forsner
bits that small arent available. Accurate location is important here.

3
7. Drill the five pin holes at the location shown.

8. Use a scroll saw to rough cut the profile of the teeth.

9. Use scroll sanders to shape the teeth to the pattern. Dont quit sanding too soon. Clearance
between the gear teeth and the pinion pins is critical.

10. When finished with the teeth, use an xacto knife to carefully make a cut through the pattern around
the outside circle shown on the pattern.

11. Remove the pattern inside the cut.

12. Lay the wheel aside and cut a ring from another piece of plywood. The ring dimensions are shown on
the drawing.

13. Glue the ring to the wheel using the outer portion of the pattern as a guide.

14. Remove the rest of the pattern.

15. Saw out circular pieces of plywood which can be stacked together to provide a thickness equal to
the length of the wheel hub. The diameter of the pieces should be slightly larger than the diameter of
the hub.

16. With a Forsner bit drill a hole in the center of each circular piece. The hole should be the same
diameter as the hole in the center of the wheel.

17. Sand the pieces to the finished diameter of the wheel hub. This can easily be done on a belt/disc
sander by making a jig as shown here; inserting the disc on the jig pin and slowly rotating it as the
sander cuts it to size.

18. Glue the hub pieces to the wheel. An excellent way to do this is to drill a hole the same size as the
wheel center hole in one jaw of a wooden parallel clamp; insert a piece of dowel rod into the hole
from the back; stack the parts to be glued on the rod; close the parallel clamp; and then remove the
dowel rod. A typical gluing setup is shown here:

Typical Wheel Gluing Setup

4

19. When the glue is dry, remove the wheel from the clamp, clean up any drips, and spray the entire
wheel with a coat of wood sealer.

20. When the sealer is dry, lightly sand the working faces of the gear teeth to remove the wood sealer
from them. A clock will not run if sealer or any other finish is allowed to build up on its gear teeth.

ANCHOR The shape of the pallets (the tips of the anchor) is arguably the most important feature in the clock.
The pallet angles affect the amount of force applied to the pendulum to keep it swinging. Be especially
careful to cut them to the proper angle and sand them smooth. Only round the tips enough to remove any
burrs. Do not leave any wood sealer on the pallet faces. In fact, putting a single drop of good quality clock oil
on each pallet face and allowing it to soak into the wood is a good idea.

PENDULUM BOB SHELL The shell of the pendulum bob was designed to be cut as two pieces for convenience.
You can glue both patterns to the same piece of wood and cut it as a single piece if you like.

PENDULUM BOB SHELL COVERS It is a good idea to cut both shell covers slightly oversize, then sand them to fit
the shell after the pendulum bob is assembled.

WEIGHT SHELL TOPS The tops of the weight shells were designed as a composite of several pieces. Since
thicknesses of plywood can vary slightly, it is a good idea to cut the outside pieces of the composite a bit wider
than shown. This will allow you to trim the assembled part to the correct width after gluing. When trimming, be
sure to keep the part symmetrical about its center line.

Since the top of the small weight shell is made up of only three pieces, and since the gap between the outer
pieces needs to be held to the dimension shown, its overall width may vary slightly. You may need to adjust the
width of the shell front and back panels and the width of the shell bottom slightly to compensate.

WEIGHT SHELL FRONT & BACK PANELS It is a good idea to cut the weight shell front and back panels slightly
wider than shown, then to sand them to fit the side panels after gluing.

Fabrication of the parts not mentioned above should be obvious from studying the drawings and the notes and
suggestions above. If you have questions about any of them feel free to contact the designer at
woodclocks@charter.net for answers.
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY. SOURCE
1 BLOCK 1/2" W X 3/4" H X 2 5/32" LG OAK 2 FABRICATE
2 CURVED DISC SPRING MC # 9716K52 301 STAINLESS STEEL 1 MCMASTER-CARR
3 DOWEL PIN 0.0625 DIA X 1/2" LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
4 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K86, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 1/4" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 20 MCMASTER-CARR
5 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K89, 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD X 3/8" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 2 MCMASTER-CARR
6 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #10 NOM BRASS 15 LOCAL HDWR
7 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD 3/8 NOM BRASS 3 LOCAL HDWR
8 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #4 NOM BRASS 2 LOCAL HDWR
9 LEAD FILL MC # 9030K34 #8 LEAD SHOT (9 LBS) 1 MCMASTER-CARR
10 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #8-32UNC BRASS 4 LOCAL HDWR
11 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #4-40 UNC BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
12 OVAL HD MACHINE SCREW #8-32 UNC x 1 1/8" LG BRASS 4 LOCAL HDWR
13 PENDULUM ROD 1/2" DIA X 31" LG OAK 1 FABRICATE
14 PLUG 3/4" DIA [COMPRESSED] x 1/2" LG CORK 2
15 ROPE 1/8" DIA X 10'-6" LG (BRAIDED) NYLON 1 LOCAL HDWR
16 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #10-24 UNC x 1" LG BRASS 8 LOCAL HDWR
17 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #4-40 UNC x 5/8" LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
18 SPLIT PIN M2 x 12 MM LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
19 SPLIT PIN M2 x 22 MM LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
20 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64 DIA X 3/4" LG STAINLESS STEEL 4 MCMASTER-CARR
21 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64" DIA X 3/8" LG STAINLESS STEEL 6 MCMASTER-CARR
22 SUSPENSION SPRING NORKRO # SS-41 1 NORKRO
23 THREADED ROD #10-24UNC X 1 3/4" LG STEEL 4 LOCAL HDWR
24 THUMB NUT #10-32UNF BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
25 WC5-00-01 SHAFT OAK 4 FABRICATE
26 WC5-00-02-A PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
27 WC5-00-02-B PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12 FABRICATE
28 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 7 FABRICATE
29 WC5-00-02-D PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
30 WC5-00-02-E PIN 360 H02 BRASS 18 FABRICATE
31 WC5-00-02-F PIN 360 H02 BRASS 11 FABRICATE
32 WC5-00-02-G PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12 FABRICATE
33 WC5-00-02-H PIN 360 H02 BRASS 5 FABRICATE
34 WC5-00-02-J PIN 360 H02 BRASS 20 FABRICATE
35 WC5-00-02-K PIN 360 H02 BRASS 3 FABRICATE
36 WC5-00-02-L PIN 360 H02 BRASS 15 FABRICATE
37 WC5-00-03 ROPE SHEAVE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
38 WC5-00-04 SHAFT 360 H02 BRASS 2 FABRICATE
39 WC5-01-01 SHELF OAK 1 FABRICATE
40 WC5-01-02 BACK PLATE OAK 1 FABRICATE
41 WC5-01-03 BRACE OAK 2 FABRICATE
42 WC5-02-01 FRAME PLATE, REAR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
43 WC5-02-02 FRAME PLATE, MIDDLE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
44 WC5-02-03 FRAME PLATE, FRONT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
45 WC5-02-04 DIAL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
46 WC5-02-05 FRAME POST OAK 8 FABRICATE
47 WC5-02-06 DIAL POST OAK 4 FABRICATE
48 WC5-02-07 PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
49 WC5-02-08 PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
50 WC5-03-01 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
51 WC5-03-02 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
52 WC5-03-03-01 CLICK BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 5 FABRICATE
WC5 CONSOLIDATED PARTS LIST
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY. SOURCE
WC5 CONSOLIDATED PARTS LIST
53 WC5-03-04 ROPE PULLEY BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
54 WC5-03-05 ROPE PIN STAINLESS STEEL 8 FABRICATE
55 WC5-04-01 SHAFT OAK 1 FABRICATE
56 WC5-04-02 PIVOT (BACK) 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
58 WC5-05-01 PIVOT (FRONT) 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
59 WC5-05-02 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
61 WC5-05-04 HAND (MINUTE) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
62 WC5-05-05 HAND (HOUR) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
63 WC5-06-01 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
66 WC5-08-01 ESCAPE WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
69 WC5-09-03 SECOND DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
72 WC5-11-01 ANCHOR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
73 WC5-11-02 IMPULSE LEVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
74 WC5-12-01 LEADER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
75 WC5-12-02 BOB GUIDE OAK 1 FABRICATE
76 WC5-12-03 ADJUSTING ROD 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
77 WC5-12-04-01 SHELL HALF BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
78 WC5-12-04-02 SHELL COVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
79 WC5-13-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
80 WC5-13-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
81 WC5-13-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
82 WC5-13-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
83 WC5-14-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
84 WC5-14-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
85 WC5-14-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
86 WC5-14-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
MATERIAL VENDOR
Baltic Birch Plywood Sloan's Woodshop
Oak Dowel Rod Local Building Supply
Brass Rod OnlineMetals.com
Clock Parts Norkro Clock Company, Inc.
Miscellaneous Hardware McMaster-Carr
Miscellanous Fasteners Local Hardware Supply
http://www.norkro.com/
http://www.mcmaster.com/
-------
SUGGESTED MATERIAL SOURCES
VENDOR WEB ADDRESS
http://www.onlinemetals.com/
-------
http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/
3/8"
2X 3/16" 1/2"
Drawing No:
Project:
box to right is full scale.
Description:

Tolerance +/-.005" typical.
All dimensions are in inches
PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL
Third angle projection.
OK to scale drawing only if
1"
1"
The information contained in this
drawing is the sole property of
RANDLE DESIGN, LLC. Any repro-
duction in part or as a whole
without the written permission of
RANDLE DESIGN, LLC is prohibited. Material: OAK
WOOD CLOCK WC5
No. Required: 4
Sheet 1 of 1
SHAFT
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawn Date: 09/12/05
Drawing Scale: 1:1
WC5-00-01
A
A
"B"
"C" TYP
"A"
Drawing No:
Project:
Description:

1"
1"
RANDLE DESIGN, LLC is prohibited. Material: 360 H02 BRASS
WOOD CLOCK WC5
No. Required: SEE TABLE
Sheet 1 of 1
PIN
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
WC5-00-02
SECTION A-A
2 1/32"
1/32" 45 x
ITEM "A" "B" "C" # REQD
WC5-00-02-A 3/16 1 7/16 1/64 1
WC5-00-02-B 3/16 15/16 1/64 12
WC5-00-02-C 3/16 13/16 1/64 7
WC5-00-02-D 1/8 1 1/64 1
WC5-00-02-E 1/8 3/4 1/64 18
WC5-00-02-F 1/8 11/16 1/64 11
WC5-00-02-G 1/8 41/64 1/64 12
WC5-00-02-H 1/8 17/32 1/64 5
WC5-00-02-J 1/8 15/32 1/64 20
WC5-00-02-K 3/32 3/4 1/64 3
WC5-00-02-L 3/32 17/32 1/64 15
1 3/8"
1 7/8"
3/8"
Drawing No:
Project:
Description:

1"
1"
RANDLE DESIGN, LLC is prohibited. Material: BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD
WOOD CLOCK WC5
No. Required: 2
Sheet 1 of 1
ROPE SHEAVE
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
WC5-00-03
A
A
1 3/8"
1 7/32"
THRU ALL
5/64"
5/64" 2X
1/64" TYP 45 X
SECTION A-A
R1/16"
15/32"
12
15
3/16"
Drawing No:
Project:
Description:

1"
1"
RANDLE DESIGN, LLC is prohibited. Material: 360 H02 BRASS
WOOD CLOCK WC5
No. Required: 2
Sheet 1 of 1
SHAFT
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
WC5-00-04
1/2"
9"
1 1/2"
6 1/4"
1 7/8"
1 1/4"
4"
THRU 2 X 3/16"
THRU 1/2"
1 1/2"
2 15/16"
2 7/8"
2 X
R1/4" TYP
1"
1"
Material: OAK
WC5-01-01
SHELF
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
RANDLE DESIGN, LLC is prohibited.
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Third angle projection. Drawing No: Sheet 1 of 1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
3 3/4"
4"
9"
1/2" R
3 3/4"
10 3/8"
1 3/4"
18"
1 1/2" R
3" R
1 1/2" R
3 3/4"
R3"
3/4" R
23 1/4"
TYP 1/8" R
3/4" R
4"
1/2"
15 3/8"
R26 13/64"
1 3/4"
1/2" R
2X 11/64" THRU
1/2"
3/16"
1/2"
1"
1"
Material: OAK
WC5-01-02
BACK PLATE
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:4
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/2"
5"
3/4" R
3 1/2"
1 7/8" R
2 7/8"
2 7/8"
R1"
1"
1"
Material: OAK
WC5-01-03
BRACE
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 2
1" TYP
1"
1"
Material: BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD
WC5-02-01
FRAME PLATE, REAR
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
4" R
7"
1/2" R
4 1/4"
7/8"
2 15/32"
5/8"
7 1/4"
1"
1 1/2"
R TYP 1/4"
15/32"
12
3/16"
R45 61/64"
5 1/4"
R45 61/64"
11 7/32"
REF
4X 13/64" THRU
15/64"
6
1"
1"
WC5-02-02
FRAME PLATE, MIDDLE
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
SEE DRAWING WC5-02-01FOR DIMENSIONS NOT SHOWN
THRU 1/2"
5 X 5/16" THRU
2 1/4"
REF
9 27/32"
1 1/8"
1 1/8"
2 1/8"
3 1/8"
2 5/8"
7 5/8"
7 27/32"
REF
REF
2 19/64"
2 59/64"
15/64"
6
15/64"
6
9
23/64"
9
23/64"
3/4"
3/4"
15/64"
6
A A
SECTION A-A
1/8"
5/64"
THRU ALL
1"
1"
WC5-02-03
FRAME PLATE, FRONT
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
SEE DRAWINGS WC5-02-01 & WC5-02-02
FOR DIMENSIONS NOT SHOWN
3/16" THRU
THRU 11/64"
1 3/8"
2 1/2"
45
B.C. 7"
ON BOLT CIRCLE
EQUALLY SPACED
4X
5/16" THRU
1/2"
30 TYP
9 1/2"
6 1/2"
1/8"
1/16"
3/16"
1/16"
1/16"
6
TYP
7"
3/4"
TYP
THRU ALL
B.C.
9/64"
EQUALLY SPACED ON B.C.
21/64" X 82
4X 11/64"
45
1/8"
3
1"
1"
WC5-02-04
DIAL
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/2"
11/64" THRU
Drawing No:
Project:
Description:

1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
No. Required: 4
Sheet 1 of 1
DIAL POST
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
WC5-02-06
SECTION A-A
2 5/32"
5/8"
5/8"
10-24 UNC 7/8"
2X 5/32" 1"
Drawing No:
Project:
Description:

1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
No. Required: 8
Sheet 1 of 1
FRAME POST
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
WC5-02-05
A
A
5/32"
1/16" R
13/16"
1/16"
1/64" 45 X
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-02-08
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 2:1
PIN
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
Material: 360 H02 BRASS
7/8"
2 X
15/32"
THRU 3/16"
1/32"
7/16"
2 5/32"
1 1/8"
6
15/64"
1/4"
3/16"
3/8"
15/64"
6
1/32"
2 5/8" REF
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-02-07
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
3/4"
6
6
15/64"
15/64"
11/16"
17.60
1/4"
5/64" THRU ALL
THE PRINTOUT IS TO SCALE CHECK THE DIMENSIONS
THIS DRAWING VIEW CAN BE USED AS A CUTTING
PATTERN WHEN PRINTED TO SCALE. TO VERIFY THAT
OF THE BOX IN THE TITLE BLOCK.
3 13/16"
3/16"
4 1/4"
3/8" THRU
THRU 1/8"
38 TEETH

5"
5X
3 1/4" B.C.
1"
1"
WC5-03-01
WHEEL T-1
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-03-03-01
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
CLICK
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 5
WOOD CLOCK WC5
A A
15/64"
6
SECTION A-A
9/64" THRU
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"
3/8"
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-03-02
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
PIVOT
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
2 27/32"
3/32"
1/64" X 45
THRU ALL
43/64"
DETAIL A
SCALE 2 : 1
1/8"
1/4"
15
A
6
15/64"
6
15/64"
3
1/8"
15/32"
12
B
B
3 1/8"
3/4"
THRU
REAM FOR FREE
FIT ON PIVOT
3/8"
4 1/4"
1"
1"
WC5-03-04
ROPE PULLEY
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1"
1"
WC5-03-04
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
ROPE PULLEY
Material: BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD No. Required: 1
SECTION B-B
3 1/8"
1/2"
2 3/4"
8 X 1/16"
45 TYP
2 7/16"
4 1/4"
1 25/32"
32
15/32"
19/32"
SR.005 MIN
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-03-05
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 2:1
ROPE PIN
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 8
WOOD CLOCK WC5
Material: STAINLESS STEEL
3/8"
3/16" 5/8"
2 1/32"
1/4" 1/4"
2X 5/64" THRU ALL
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-04-01
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
SHAFT
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
Material: OAK
3/16" 1/2"
1/16"
THIS PART CAN BE MADE BY CUTTING THE HEAD
OFF A WIRE BRAD AND ROUNDING ITS TIP
1 9/32"
X TYP 45 1/32"
5/64" THRU
2 3/16"
45 TYP 1/64" 5/64" THRU ALL
3/32"
3/8"
X
1 3/32"
2 1/64"
THRU ALL
3/32" THRU ALL
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-05-01
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 2:1
PIVOT (FRONT)
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
13/16"
1/4"
THRU ALL 3/32"
1/64" TYP 45 X
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-04-02
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 2:1
PIVOT (BACK)
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
3/16"
3/16"
1"
1"
WC5-04-03
WHEEL T-2
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
SECTION A-A
GLUE LINES
15/64"
1"
6
15/32"
12
2"
3/8" 1"
15/64"
6
54 TEETH
1/8" R
1/8"
4 43/64"
12X 3/16" THRU
A
A
1 1/2"
3/16" THRU
1/8" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON H.C.
15X
1 1/4" HOLE CIRCLE
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-05-02
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
DISC
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
15/64"
6
3/4"
15/64"
6
1/8"
3/32" THRU ALL
1"
3/8" THRU
THRU 1/8" 9X
3/4" H.C.
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-06-01
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
DISC
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
23/64"
9
5/16"
9/64"
R1/8"
4 11/64"
3
1/8"
1/8"
3
3/4"
48 TEETH
1"
1"
WC5-05-03
WHEEL T-HR
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn Date: 0912/05
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
4 7/16"
3/4"
3/16" THRU GLUE LINE
1/8"
3
1/8"
3
3/32" THRU ALL
1/8" TO HOLE CENTER
1"
1"
WC5-05-04
HAND (MINUTE)
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
3 3/16"
1"
1"
WC5-05-05
HAND (HOUR)
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
3/4"
5/16" THRU
1/8"
3
1"
1"
WC5-06-02
WHEEL T-3
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/8"
1/8"
R
3/8"
3 59/64"
45 TEETH
3
1/8"
15/64"
6
1"
1"
1"
WC5-07-01
WHEEL T-4
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/8" R
1/8"
3/8" THRU
3 53/64"
44 TEETH
9X 1/8" THRU
3
1/8"
15/64"
6
1"
6
15/64"
1/8"
3
1 3/16"
THRU 3/8"
2 5/8"
R1/8"
15X THRU
2 3/8"
3/32"
THRU

1/8"
HOLE CIRCLE
11X
59/64" HOLE CIRCLE
1"
1"
WC5-08-01
ESCAPE WHEEL
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1 9/64"
1"
5/64" THRU ALL
5/64"
5/64" THRU ALL
1/64" TYP 45 X
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-10-01
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 2:1
PIVOT
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
3/16"
3/16"
1 27/32"
THRU ALL
3/32"

TYP 45 X
17/64"
THRU ALL
5/64"
1/64"
1 5/16"
Project:
Description:
Drawing No:

1"
1"
WC5-09-01
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 2:1
PIVOT
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
1"
1"
WC5-09-02
WHEEL T-6
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
3/4"
1/8"
3
1/8"
15/64"
6
5/64" THRU ALL
9/64"
3/16" THRU
2"
22 TEETH
1/8"
3
3/4"
15/64"
6
3/32"
1/8"
THRU ALL
1/64" TYP 45 X
1"
1"
WC5-09-03
SECOND DISC
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
2 1/4"
3/32"
3/16"
3/64"
1"
3/8"
3
1/8"
15/64"
6
1 1/4"
1"
1"
WC5-10-02
WHEEL T-INT
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/8" R
9/64"
5/16" THRU
3 59/64"
45 TEETH
12X 1/8" THRU
1/8" TYP
1"
1"
WC5-11-01
ANCHOR
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
3/8" THRU
3/4"
R1/64" MAX
GLUE LINE
1/8"
3
15/64"
5.99
GLUE LINE
45
3/16"
15/64"
6
3/8"
1/8"
15/64"
6
1"
1"
WC5-11-02
IMPULSE LEVER
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/2"
2"
3/8"
5 1/2"
1/32"
3/16" THRU
THRU

1 1/2"
1/8"
1/8" THRU
1/2"
5 1/2"
1/2"
1 1/8"
1 3/4"
9"
1 1/2"
9/16"
1/32"
1/8"
1/4"
1"
R TYP 1/2"
30 TYP
1"
1"
WC5-12-01
LEADER
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 2:3
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
GLUE LINES
TYP
1/16" THRU ALL
45
6
15/64"
1 1/2"
TYP 3/16"
15/64"
TYP
6
1/4"
3 3/4"
1/2"
1 1/2"
11/16"
3/4"
5/8" 3/16"
1/16" TYP 45 X
1"
1"
Material: OAK
WC5-12-02
BOB GUIDE
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
1/2"
5/64" THRU ALL
1"
1"
WC5-12-03
ADJUSTING ROD
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
#10-32 UNF
2 1/2"
3 1/2"
1/8"
3/32" THRU ALL
3/16"
1"
1"
WC5-12-04-01
SHELL HALF
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 2
R1/8"
45/64"
18
1"
1"
WC5-12-04-02
SHELL COVER
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 2
1/8"
3
4 1/4"
3"
R1 1/2" R3 39/64"
REF
R3 39/64"
REF
1"
1"
SHELL TOP
WC5-13-01
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Sheet 1 of 1
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Third angle projection. Drawing No:
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
GLUE LINE
TYP
2"
15/64"
6
37/64"
6
15/64"
15/32"
12
15/32"
REF
15/32"
REF
R3/8"
2"
3/16"
7/8"
1 15/32"
1/8"
3
1"
1"
WC5-13-02
SHELL SIDES
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
10"
"A"
ITEM DESCRIPTION "A" # REQD
WC5-13-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL 2 15/64 2
WC5-13-02-B SIDE PANEL 2 2
1"
1"
Drawing No:

Description:
Project:
WC5-13-03
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
SHELL BOTTOM
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
1"
1"
Description:
Drawing No:

Project:
WC5-14-03
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:1
SHELL BOTTOM
Sheet 1 of 1
No. Required: 1
WOOD CLOCK WC5
15/32"
12
3/4" THRU
1 1/16"
1 1/16"
3/4" THRU
2"
2"
15/32"
12
1"
1"
WC5-14-01
SHELL TOP
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
No. Required: 1
3/16"
1 1/16"
3/8" R
7/8"
1 15/32"
GLUE LINE
TYP
15/64"
6
1 1/16"
12
15/32"
15/64"
6
19/32"
1/8"
3
1"
1"
WC5-14-02
SHELL SIDES
WOOD CLOCK WC5

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
5"
"A"
ITEM DESCRIPTION "A" # REQD
WC5-14-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL 1 19/64 2
WC5-14-02-B SIDE PANEL 1 1/16 2
WC5
ASSEMBLY

AUTHOR: J. RANDLE

All rights reserved
This section contains drawings and instructions for assembling clock WC5. The instructions are written assuming
that all of the required parts listed in the WC5 Parts Fabrication section have been purchased or fabricated.

Tools you will need for assembling the clock will be the tools you had available for parts fabrication plus an
assortment of screwdrivers, a pair of needle nose pliers, a small hammer, and an assortment of small wood
clamps. A small vise would also be useful.

Required materials not listed in the parts list will be:

o A small bottle of Gorilla TM glue.

o A spray can of acrylic wood sealer, Deft TM or equal.

o A small can of glossy spray paint (for the dial numbers and hands).

o A small can of wood stain (for the wall shelf).

o A small can of semi gloss polyurethane or preferred wood finish (for the wall shelf).

For design and drawing purposes this clock was organized as a master assembly which contains a number of
subassemblies. Drawing WC5, the master assembly drawing, lists all of the subassemblies and shows their
relationships to each other. Where practical, traditional clock terminology was used to describe the parts, i.e.
gear assemblies are referred to as arbors, gears as wheels, shaft bearing surfaces as pivots, ratchets pawls as
clicks, etc.

Assembly of WC5, B/M items 3 thru 11 must be completed prior to completing the assembly of the Frame & Dial
Assembly, B/M Item 2. Notes and suggestions pertaining to the individual subassemblies are listed below.
Numbers shown in parentheses are subassembly item numbers:

WC5-03 ARBOR T-1 ASSEMBLY Arbor T-1 has a ratchet (click) assembly built into it which allows you to wind
the clock by pulling down on the drive rope on the counterweight side of the arbor. To assemble:

o Insert the five click pivot pins (1) into wheel T-1(2). The pins should fit snuggly in place without any glue.
If not, a drop of Gorilla glue will lock them in place.

o Insert the center shaft (3) into wheel T-1 (2); align the cross holes in the shaft and the wheel; then insert
a spring pin (7). The spring pin will positively lock the shaft in the wheel to keep it from working out as
the wheel rotates under the load of the clock drive weight.

o Insert eight rope pins (6) into the rope pulley (5). A drop of Gorilla glue in each hole is recommended.
When installed properly, the tapered tips of the pins should stick out of the holes only about 3/32.

o Assemble the five click assemblies (4) as noted below and install them making certain they are
oriented as shown on the drawing. They must rotate freely on the click pivot pins (1).

o Turn the arbor assembly so that wheel T-1 is horizontal (ring up) and push all of the clicks out against the
ring.

o Slip the rope pulley (5) onto the arbor shaft so that the click wheel on the pulley is inside the circle of
clicks.

o Hold the assembly with wheel T-1 vertical and the rope pulley to the front. Attempt to rotate the rope
pulley. It should rotate freely in the clockwise direction and lock when rotated counterclockwise.
Rotate the assembly and test it in several positions to make sure that at least one click will drop into the
click wheel at any wheel position.

Congratulations, your first arbor is now complete and ready for installation into the main clock assembly.

2
WC5-03-03 CLICK ASSEMBLY The five click assemblies are part of the Arbor T-1 assembly. They are weighted
to ensure that they will drop by gravity to engage the click wheel as Arbor T-1 rotates.

o Insert the five weight pins (2), into the five wooden clicks (1). If the pins do not fit snugly in the holes, put
a drop of Gorilla glue in each hole prior to inserting the pin. The glue will expand as it cures to lock the
pins in place.

WC5-04 ARBOR T-2 (MIN) ASSEMBLY Arbor T-2 is equipped with a slip clutch which allows the minute shaft to
turn inside the wheel while the wheel is restrained by the gear train. This allows you to set the clock by pushing
the minute hand.

o Insert the twelve pinion pins (1) into the holes in wheel T-2 (4). Use Gorilla glue as necessary to secure
the pins in place.

o Test the fit of the shaft (2) in the center hole of wheel T-2 (4). The shaft should be sanded as necessary
for it to turn freely in the wheel.

o Remove the shaft and insert the back pivot (3) into the end of the shaft. This pivot must go into the end
of the shaft with the shallow hole (the shaft end holes are drilled to different depths).

o Align the cross holes in the shaft and the pivot and insert the first spring pin (7). The pin should be
centered in the shaft with its slot turned toward the end of the shaft.

o Stack three washers (6), one spring (5), and the wheel (4) on the shaft in the order shown on the
drawing.

o Compress the spring and install the second spring pin (7) thru the shaft. Make sure the slot in the pin is
turned away from the washer.

o Test the rotation of the center shaft in the wheel. It should rotate smoothly with a small amount of
resistance. All of the resistance that is needed here is enough to ensure that the hands move with the
wheel during normal operation of the clock. Too much resistance will make setting the clock difficult.

o Locate the cotter pin (8) to be inserted in the remaining shaft cross hole, but do not install it yet. This
pin is to be installed at final assembly after the front pivot of the hand assembly is inserted into the
minute arbor shaft.

WC5-05 HAND ASSEMBLY The hand assembly is a continuation of the Arbor T-2 assembly. The minute hand is
mounted directly to the outer end of the arbor T-2 front pivot and rotates once per hour along with the arbor T-
2 shaft. Also mounted on the pivot is a pinion which drives through the motion works to turn the hour hand
once every 12 hours. The hour hand is glued to the motion works output gear and both together turn freely on
the front pivot restricted only by the motion works gear train.

o Insert the front pivot (3) thru the center hole of the pinion disc (4).

o Align the cross holes in the disc and pivot and install pin (2).

o Insert the fifteen pinion pins (1) into the pinion disc (4). Use Gorilla glue to secure any loose pins.

o Glue the hour hand (7) to the hub of the hour wheel (5).

o Modify two flanged bearings (8) to the length shown in the bill of materials and insert them into each
end of the hour gear/hour hand center hole.

o Ream the bearings as required for them to turn freely on the front pivot.

o Slide the hour hand with its attached wheel onto the front pivot.

3
o Slide the minute hand (6) onto the end of the front pivot with its hub turned out; align the cross holes;
and install pin (2). Use Gorilla glue as necessary to keep pin (2) in place. When installed properly the
minute hand will be locked solidly on the front pivot. A little play in this joint wont affect the operation
of the clock but could make it difficult to set accurately.

WC5-06 ARBOR T-3 ASSEMBLY Arbor T-3 consists of a wheel and a separate pinion glued to a common shaft
all turning as a unit.

o Insert the nine pinion pins (3) into the holes in the pinion disc (4). Glue as required.

o Mark the position of the pinion disc (4) and the wheel (5) on the shaft (1).

o Cut two small grooves around the surface of the shaft where they will be covered by the disc and the
wheel. This can be done by rotating the shaft against a running scroll saw blade. The grooves dont
have to be precise.

o Spread Gorilla glue in the grooves and install the wheel and the pinion. When the glue cures it will
expand to lock them to the shaft.

o Insert the pivots (2) into the ends of the shaft. Glue as required.

WC5-07 ARBOR T-4 ASSEMBLY Arbor T-4 is similar to arbor T-3 except that the pinion pins fit directly into the
wheel hub.

o Install the nine pinion pins (3) in the holes in the wheel (4).

o Mark the location of the wheel on the shaft (1).

o Cut a glue groove.

o Glue the wheel to the shaft.

o Install the pivots (2).

WC5-08 ARBOR T-5 (ESC) ASSEMBLY Arbor T-5 is the same as the other arbors except it has an outer circle of
pins instead of gear teeth.

o Install the eleven pinion pins (3) into the inner circle of holes in the wheel (5).

o Turn the wheel over, support it on blocks, and install the 15 escapement pins (4) into the outer circle of
holes.

o Mark the location of the wheel on the shaft (1).

o Cut a glue groove.

o Glue the escape wheel to the shaft.

o Install the pivots (2).

WC5-09 ARBOR T-6 (SEC) ASSEMBLY
o Insert the pivot (2) into the center hole of the second disc (4).
o Line up the cross holes in the disc and the pivot and install pin (1). Use glue as necessary to keep the
pin in place.
o Locate wheel T-6 (3) and the cotter pin (5), but do not install them until arbor T-6 is installed into the
front plate of the clocks frame assembly.

4

WC5-10 ARBOR T-INT ASSEMBLY This arbor is the intermediate gear of the motion works which drives the hour
hand from the minute hand. This wheel must turn freely on its stationary pivot. It is to be driven by the pinion in
the hand assembly and drives the hour gear attached to the hour hand.

o Insert the 12 pinion pins (1) into the circle of holes in the wheel (3). Make sure the wheel hub is on the
same side as the protruding pins.

o Modify two flanged bearings (4) to the length shown in the Bill of Materials and insert them into each
end of the wheel center hole.

o Ream the bearings as required for them to turn freely on the pivot (2).

o Insert a spring pin (6) into the front cross hole of the pivot (1). The front cross hole is the one nearest the
end of the pivot.

o Slide a washer (5) onto the pivot, then insert it into the wheel center hole.

o Provide additional washers as required to shim between the wheel and the clock frame at final
assembly.

WC5-11 ANCHOR ASSEMBLY The anchor assembly is really two assemblies which come together at final
assembly.

Anchor assembly:

o Insert the back pivot (2) into one end of the shaft (1).

o Drill a 5/64 diameter cross hole thru the shaft and the pivot, and drive a spring pin (7) into the hole.
See the assembly drawing for the cross hole location. Locking the back pivot firmly into the shaft is
important. Any looseness here will impede the ability if the anchor assembly to transfer force impulses
from the gear train to the pendulum.

o Insert the front pivot (3). Glue as necessary.

o Mark the location of the anchor (5) on the shaft (1).

o Cut a glue groove in the shaft under the anchor.

o Glue the anchor to the shaft. Make sure it is oriented correctly.

Impulse lever assembly:

o Insert the impulse pin (4) into the hole at the bottom of the impulse lever (6). Glue as necessary.

o Insert the clamping screw (9), washers (8), and hex nut (10) into the top of the impulse lever. Leave
loose until the impulse lever is installed on the back pivot at final assembly.

WC5-12 PENDULUM ASSEMBLY A pendulum is simply a mass hanging some distance below a supporting point,
oscillating back and forth. The frequency of oscillation is determined by the distance between the center of
mass and the support point. The pendulum has a length adjustment built into it to allow changing its frequency
and thus the speed of the clock.

Since the pendulum frequency is sensitive to length, it is important that the pendulum rod be protected from
environmental factors such as temperature and humidity which will change its length.

o Glue the pendulum leader (1) to the top of the pendulum rod (5).

5
o Glue the bob guide (2) to the bottom end of the pendulum rod. Make sure its faces are parallel to the
faces of the leader. Note that the guide is wider than it is deep and that its 5/64 diameter cross pin
hole in the bob guide runs side to side.

To make sure that all of the components of the pendulum rod line up correctly, it is a good idea to clamp the
leader and the bob guide to a flat board or your workbench while the glue cures.

o When the glue has cured, clean up any drips and spray the rod assembly with several coats of wood
sealer to keep out moisture.

o After the pendulum rod is sealed against moisture, insert the adjusting rod (3) into the hole in the
bottom of the bob guide, align the cross hole in the rods end with the cross hole in the bob guide, and
install a spring pin (7). Make sure that the pin does not protrude out of the guide on either side.

o Modify the purchased suspension spring (6) as shown on the drawing and slip it into the slot at the top
of the pendulum leader.

o Install dowel pin (8) to hold the suspension spring in place. This pin should be loose enough to slide
easily into and out of its hole and should not be glued in place. It will have to be removed to connect
the pendulum to the pendulum support bridge at final assembly and to replace the suspension spring if
it ever gets damaged or breaks.

o Assemble the bob as noted below and slip it onto the adjusting rod and bob guide. Hold it in place
with a washer (9) and the speed adjusting thumb nut (10).

o Adjust the length of the pendulum as shown on the drawing. The dimension shown is for startup only.
The pendulums length will have to be adjusted to set the clock to correct speed after startup.

WC5-12-04 BOB ASSEMBLY The pendulum bob is designed to add mass to the pendulum assembly while
minimizing the drag created as the pendulum swings through the air. Variances in bob weight can be
compensated for by simply changing the pendulum length. However drag must be compensated for by
changing the amount of weight driving the clock. The bob needs to be heavy enough to make the pendulum
insensitive to disturbances such as air movement in the room but not so heavy as to take a large impulse force
to accelerate the pendulum each time the clock ticks. For this clock a bob weighing 1.5 pounds works well.

o Glue the halves of the bob body (1) to one of the cover plates (2). Make sure the width of the center
slot is the same from top to bottom. A temporary spacer cut to the width of the slot will help.

o Fill the two cavities in the body with enough #8 lead shot to bring the total weight of the assembled
bob to 1.5 pounds. Distribute the shot equally between the bob cavities.

o Glue the other cover plate (2) to the bob body.

o Sand the edges of the cover plates to fit the contour of the body.

o Drill the adjusting rod hole in the bottom of the bob as shown on the drawing.

o Spray the bob with wood sealer and decorate it as you like.

WC5-13 DRIVE WEIGHT ASSEMBLY The drive weight is the power source for this clock. The amount of weight
required to keep the clock running depends on a number of factors such as gear train inertia, gear tooth
profile, escapement design, bearing friction, pendulum drag, etc. The clock has been designed to minimize
the amount of weight required. However, a major factor affecting the weight required to drive a hand made
wooden clock is the accuracy of construction of the various parts, so the actual required drive weight is very
difficult to determine.

For long life and quiet operation, you will want to use the minimum amount of weight necessary to keep the
clock running. That will have to be determined by experimentation. The weight box is oversized and has a plug
in the bottom to allow the weight to be adjusted as needed.

6

o Lay out the shell top (3), the shell bottom (6), and both shell side panels (5) on a flat surface and glue
them together.

o Glue on the front and back panels (4).

o Sand the edges of the front and back panels for a smooth fit to the side panels

o Seal the box with wood sealer.

o Modify two flanged bearings (9) to the length shown in the bill of materials and install them in each end
of the rope sheave (1) center hole.

o Insert a spring pin (10) into the cross hole in one end of shaft (2)

o Slip a washer onto the shaft and insert the shaft through the holes in the shell top and the rope sheave.

o Check that the rope sheave rotates freely on the shaft. If not, remove the rope sheave and ream the
bearings.

o When satisfied that the rope sheave rotates freely, install another washer and another spring pin at the
other end of the shaft.

o Turn the weight box upside down and pour in #8 lead shot to get to the desired amount of drive
weight. Seven to eight pounds is recommended as a starting point.

o Twist a wine bottle cork into the fill hole and cut it off flush with the bottom of the box.

WC5-14 COUNTERWEIGHT ASSEMBLY The purpose of the counterweight assembly is solely to keep the drive
rope tight on the arbor T-1 rope pulley as the clock runs. Weight added to the counterweight subtracts from
the driving force provided by the drive weight, so you will want to keep the weight of the counterweight to a
minimum. One pound total weight should be heavy enough.

o The assembly procedure for the counterweight is exactly the same as the procedure for the drive
weight.

WC5-02 FRAME ASSEMBLY Because of the design of this clock it is necessary to assemble most of the other
clock subassemblies into the clock as the frame is being assembled, the only exceptions being the pendulum
assembly and the drive weights. Those should not be installed until the clock is setting on the wall shelf.

o Locate the middle and front bearing plates (2) and (3) and insert the flanged bearings (9) and (10) into
them. Pay attention that the bearing flanges are on the correct sides of the plates.

o Ream the bearings as required for the arbor pivots to turn freely in them. Depending on the size of the
drill bit used to drill the holes in the bearing plates, the large bearings (10) may not require reaming.
The small bearings will almost certainly be too tight without reaming.

o Screw the four threaded rods (11) into four of the frame posts (5).

o Insert the threaded rods through the middle frame plate (2) as shown and screw the remaining frame
posts onto them to secure the posts to the middle plate. Tighten hand tight. DO NOT over tighten.
Metal screw threads in hardwood will provide a strong joint but the threads arent strong enough to
stretch the screws as threads in metal could.

o Use four round head machine screws (13) with washers (12) to fasten the rear frame plate (1) to the
rear frame posts. DO NOT over tighten the screws.

7
o Fit the pendulum support bridge (7) into the notches at the top of the middle and rear frame plates.
Note that the notch and the slot in the bridge are not located at its center. The bridge should be
oriented with the notch as close as possible to the rear of the clock. DO NOT glue the bridge in place.

o Lay the frame assembly on its back and insert the arbors into the bearings in the middle plate. Leave
out the anchor assembly for now.

o Locate the front bearing plate (3) and insert the pivot of arbor T-6 through the double bossed hole near
its top. The front bearing plate has two bosses on its back side and one on its front side. Make sure the
second wheel is on the front.

o Slip the arbor T-6 wheel (WC5-09, Item 3) onto the T-6 pivot, align the cross holes in the pivot and the
wheel and install the cotter pin (WC5-09, Item 5).

o Insert the pivot of arbor T-INT into the front bearing plate hole with the single boss. Make sure that the
proper number of shim washers are installed between the T-INT wheel and the bearing plate (See WC5-
10).

o Align the cross hole in the pivot with the cross hole in the bearing plate boss and insert the L-shaped pin
(8) to secure arbor T-INT in place.

o Rotate arbor T-6 and arbor T-INT to make sure they turn freely.

o Lay the front plate (3) on top of the arbors and carefully work all of the pivots into the front plate
bearings. Insert a temporary pivot into the front of arbor T-2 to align it.

o Insert four round head machine screws (13) with washers (12) thru the front plate and into the front
frame posts (5) and tighten finger tight.

o Stand the assembly upright and rotate the gear train in its normal running direction. It should run
smoothly with no noticeable binding. If any binding occurs disassemble and adjust the parts as
necessary. Any binding will have to be corrected or overcome by increasing the clock driving weight
which will result in a noisy clock and rapid wear.

o When satisfied that all of the gears mesh properly and rotate without binding, loosen the front plate
mounting screws, add the anchor to the assembly, and replace the screws.

o Put the dial posts (6) and dial (4) into position and secure them with oval head machine screws (14)
and hex nuts (15).

o Tighten all screws. DO NOT over tighten.

o Remove the temporary front pivot from arbor T-2 and replace it with the hand assembly. Turn both
hands to the twelve oclock position and mesh the arbor T-INT gears with the hand assembly gears.
You may have to try arbor T-INT in several positions to find the position that best aligns the hour and
minute hands in the twelve oclock position.

o Align the cross holes in the front pivot and the arbor T-2 shaft, and insert cotter pin (WC5-04, Item 8).

o Install the anchors impulse lever on the rear pivot of the anchor assembly. Tighten the clamp only
enough to hold the lever in place.

The clock should now be ready to place on the wall shelf for final assembly and run in. See the installation
section for continuation.

13
1
2
14
SCALE: 1:10
12
15
1"
1"
WC5
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:4
Drawing No: Sheet 1 of 3
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
ASSEMBLY
SEE SHEET 2 FOR GEAR TRAIN ASSEMBLY
SEE SHEET 3 FOR BILL OF MATERIALS
ARBOR T-1
38T WHEEL
3.17 HR/REV
ARBOR T-2
12T PINION
54T WHEEL
1 HR/REV
ARBOR T-3
9T PINION
45T WHEEL
10 MIN/REV
ARBOR T-4
9T PINION
44T WHEEL
2 MIN/REV
ARBOR T-5
11T PINION
15 ESC PINS
30 SEC/REV
ARBOR T-INT
12T PINION
45T WHEEL
3 HR/REV
HAND ASSY
15T PINION
1 HR/REV
48T WHEEL
12 HR/REV
ARBOR T-6
22T WHEEL
1 MIN/REV
3
4
7
6
8
11
9
10
5
1"
1"
WC5
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
ASSEMBLY
1"
1"
WC5
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:24
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
ASSEMBLY
ITEM NO. PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY.
1 WC5-01 WALL SHELF 1
2 WC5-02 FRAME & DIAL ASSEMBLY 1
3 WC5-03 ARBOR T-1 ASSEMBLY 1
4 WC5-04 ARBOR T-2 (MIN) ASSEMBLY 1
5 WC5-05 HAND ASSEMBLY 1
8 WC5-08 ARBOR T-5 (ESC) ASSEMBLY 1
9 WC5-09 ARBOR T-6 (SEC) ASSEMBLY 1
10 WC5-10 ARBOR T-INT ASSEMBLY 1
11 WC5-11 ANCHOR ASSEMBLY 1
12 WC5-12 PENDULUM ASSEMBLY 1
13 WC5-13 DRIVE WEIGHT ASSEMBLY 1
14 WC5-14 COUNTERWEIGHT ASSEMBLY 1
15 ROPE 1/8" DIA X 10'-6" LG (BRAIDED) NYLON 1
4
1
6 3/8"
2 13/16"
REF
2
7"
1 WC5-01-01 SHELF OAK 1
2 WC5-01-02 BACK PLATE OAK 1
3 WC5-01-03 BRACE OAK 2
4 BLOCK 1/2" W X 3/4" H X 2 5/32" LG OAK 2
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-01

Description:
Project:
Sheet 1 of 1 Drawing No:
Drawing Scale: 1:6
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
WALL SHELF
3
3"
13
12
5
11
5
12
13
15
6
14
4
3
2
1
7
9
9
10
10
8
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-02

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:4
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
FRAME & DIAL ASSEMBLY
1"
1"
WC5-02
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:5
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
FRAME & DIAL ASSEMBLY
1 WC5-02-01 FRAME PLATE, REAR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
2 WC5-02-02 FRAME PLATE, MIDDLE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
3 WC5-02-03 FRAME PLATE, FRONT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
4 WC5-02-04 DIAL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
5 WC5-02-05 FRAME POST OAK 8
6 WC5-02-06 DIAL POST OAK 4
7 WC5-02-07 PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
8 WC5-02-08 PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1
9 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K86, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 1/4" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 12
10 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K89, 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD X 3/8" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 2
11 THREADED ROD #10-24UNC X 1 3/4" LG STEEL 4
12 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #10 NOM BRASS 8
13 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #10-24 UNC x 1" LG BRASS 8
14 OVAL HD MACHINE SCREW #8-32 UNC x 1 1/8" LG BRASS 4
15 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #8-32UNC BRASS 4
7
2
3
1
4
5
6
1 WC5-00-02-J PIN 360 H02 BRASS 5
2 WC5-03-01 WHEEL T-1 BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
3 WC5-03-02 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1
4 WC5-03-03 CLICK ASSEMBLY 5
5 WC5-03-04 ROPE PULLEY BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
6 WC5-03-05 ROPE PIN STAINLESS STEEL 8
7 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64 DIA X 3/4" LG STAINLESS STEEL 1
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-03

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ARBOR T-1 ASSEMBLY
1 WC5-03-03-01 CLICK BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
2 WC5-00-02-H PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-03-03

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 2:1
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
CLICK ASSEMBLY
2
1
3
4
2
7
8
6
5
6
6
7
1
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-04

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ARBOR T-2 (MIN) ASSEMBLY
1 WC5-00-02-B PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12
2 WC5-04-01 SHAFT OAK 1
3 WC5-04-02 PIVOT (BACK) 360 H02 BRASS 1
5 CURVED DISC SPRING MC # 9716K52 301 STAINLESS STEEL 1
6 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD 3/8 NOM BRASS 3
8 SPLIT PIN M2 x 12 MM LG BRASS 1
1 WC5-00-02-J PIN 360 H02 BRASS 15
2 WC5-00-02-K PIN 360 H02 BRASS 2
3 WC5-05-01 PIVOT (FRONT) 360 H02 BRASS 1
4 WC5-05-02 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
5 WC5-05-03 WHEEL T-HR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
6 WC5-05-04 HAND (MINUTE) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
7 WC5-05-05 HAND (HOUR) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
8 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K86 (MOD), 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 3/16"" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 2
1
INSTALL ITEM 2
BEFORE ITEM 1
4
2
8
2
6
7
5
8
TO ITEM 5
GLUE ITEM 7
3
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-05

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
HAND ASSEMBLY
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC4
WC5-06

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ARBOR T-3 ASSEMBLY
2 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 2
3 WC5-00-02-E PIN 360 H02 BRASS 9
4 WC5-06-01 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
1
2
3
4
5
2
11/16" 1/16"
2
4
1
2
3
19/32"
1"
1"
WC5-07
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
ARBOR T-4 ASSEMBLY
2 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 2
3 WC5-00-02-E PIN 360 H02 BRASS 9
27/32"
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-08

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ARBOR T-5 (ESC) ASSEMBLY
1
2
4
3
5
2
2 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 2
3 WC5-00-02-F PIN 360 H02 BRASS 11
4 WC5-00-02-L PIN 360 H02 BRASS 15
5 WC5-08-01 ESCAPE WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
2
3
5
1
4
1 WC5-00-02-K PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1
2 WC5-09-01 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1
4 WC5-09-03 SECOND DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
5 SPLIT PIN M2 x 22 MM LG BRASS 1
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-09

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ARBOR T-6 (SEC) ASSEMBLY
2
5
4
3
4
5
6
1
1 WC5-00-02-G PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12
2 WC5-10-01 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1
3 WC5-10-02 WHEEL T-INT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
4 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K86 (MOD), 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 3/16"" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 2
6 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64" DIA X 3/8" LG STAINLESS STEEL 1
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-10

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ARBOR T-INT ASSEMBLY
3
9
8
8
10
6
2
4
5
1
7
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-11

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
ANCHOR ASSEMBLY
2 WC5-00-02-A PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1
3 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1
4 WC5-00-02-D PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1
5 WC5-11-01 ANCHOR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
6 WC5-11-02 IMPULSE LEVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
9 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #4-40 UNC x 5/8" LG BRASS 1
10 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #4-40 UNC Brass 1
THRU ALL 5/64"
DRILL AT ASSEMBLY
1/4"
5/8"
1"
1"

WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-12
Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:4
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
PENDULUM ASSEMBLY
42 17/64"
INITIAL SETUP
5/64"
ENLARGE HOLE
TO
DETAIL-A
SUSPENSION SPRING
MODIFICATION
6 SEE DETAIL-A
1
10
9
4
3
7
2
8
5
1 WC5-12-01 LEADER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
2 WC5-12-02 BOB GUIDE OAK 1
3 WC5-12-03 ADJUSTING ROD 360 H02 BRASS 1
4 WC5-12-04 BOB ASSEMBLY 1
5 PENDULUM ROD 1/2" DIA X 31" LG OAK 1
6 SUSPENSION SPRING #41 (TIME SAVERS PN 12055) 1
8 DOWEL PIN 0.0625 DIA X 1/2" LG BRASS 1
10 THUMB NUT #10-32UNF BRASS 1
1"
1"
WC5-12
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:8
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
PENDULUM ASSEMBLY
1 WC5-12-04-01 SHELL HALF BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2
2 WC5-12-04-02 SHELL COVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2
3 LEAD FILL MC # 9030K34 #8 LEAD SHOT (1.308 LBS) -
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-12-04

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
BOB ASSEMBLY
7/32" THRU ALL
2
TOTAL WEIGHT: 1.500 LBS
2
1
1
3
1"
1"
WC5-13
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
DRIVE WEIGHT ASSEMBLY
9
1
9
10
11
2
11
3
5
4
4
6
8
7
TOTAL WEIGHT: 8.000 LBS
1"
1"
WC5-13
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:3
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
DRIVE WEIGHT ASSEMBLY
1 WC5-00-03 ROPE SHEAVE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
2 WC5-00-04 SHAFT 360 H02 BRASS 1
3 WC5-13-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
4 WC5-13-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2
5 WC5-13-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2
6 WC5-13-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-14

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
COUNTERWEIGHT ASSEMBLY
TOTAL WEIGHT: 1.000 lbs
2
9
1
9
10
11
11
3
4
7
5
6
8
4
1"
1"
WC5-14
Drawn By: J. RANDLE
Drawing Scale: 1:2
Project:
Description:

WOOD CLOCK WC5
COUNTERWEIGHT ASSEMBLY
1 WC5-00-03 ROPE SHEAVE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
2 WC5-00-04 SHAFT 360 H02 BRASS 1
3 WC5-14-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
4 WC5-14-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2
5 WC5-14-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2
6 WC5-14-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1
WC5
INSTALLATION

AUTHOR: J. RANDLE

All rights reserved
These instructions are the final section of a package of drawings and instructions for the fabrication of Wood
Clock WC5. They are written with the assumption that all of the parts for the clock have been fabricated as
noted in the WC5 Parts Fabrication section and that all of the assembly steps outlined in the WC5 Assembly
section have been completed.

This clock was designed to be wall shelf mounted as shown on arrangement drawing WC5-A, attached. The
location selected for the clock is important. For reliable operation it should be placed in a location where
temperature and humidity are reasonably constant, and where disturbance of the pendulum by drafts and
traffic is minimized. The mounting height above the floor is not critical to clock operation, but changing the
height will affect weight travel which determines run time between windings.

The assembled clock should be mounted, adjusted, and run in as follows:

o Pick a solid vertical surface on which to mount the wall shelf. If you plan to mount it on a hollow wall, it
should be mounted on a stud for several reasons: 1) the finished clock will weigh about 12 pounds, 2)
the clock must be mounted on a stable surface (movement will dampen the pendulum possibly
causing the clock to stop), and 3) the clock will run quieter (wood clocks are inherently noisy and a
hollow wall will act like a drum head to further amplify the noise).

o Position the shelf on the wall and insert a #8 wood screw through the top hole on the shelf back plate
into the wall stud leaving it slightly loose. See arrangement drawing WC5-A for the recommended
mounting height.

o Level the shelf; insert the second #8 wood screw; and tighten both screws. If the wall is uneven you
may need to glue some small felt pads to the back of the shelf to steady it.

o Set the clock on the shelf using the blocks glued on the top of the shelf to locate it and hold it in
position.

o Remove the suspension spring from the pendulum assembly and insert it through the slot in the
pendulum support bridge.

o Carefully insert the pendulum up through the back of the clock frame and hang it from the suspension
spring. Make sure the anchor assemblys impulse pin is inserted through the slot in the pendulum
leader.

Note: As an alternate, the pendulum support bridge can be removed from the clock frame, attached to the
pendulum, and then reinserted back into the frame along with the pendulum.

o Set the drive weight on the floor directly beneath the clock.

o Insert one end of the drive rope up thru the left hole in the shelf and knot it.

o Thread the other end of the rope through the sheave on the weight box, and then up through the
clock as shown on the drawings. The rope goes over the arbor T-1 rope pulley.

o Next pull the slack out of the rope and continue to thread it through the sheave on the counterweight
box and up through the right hole in the shelf.

o Finally pull the rope through the shelf until the counterweight almost touches the shelf, knot it and cut
off the excess. The clock will now run until the drive weight touches the floor without crashing the
counterweight into the shelf.

o Now wind the clock by pulling down on the rope on the right side of the arbor T-1 rope pulley until the
drive weight is in the position shown on the arrangement drawing. This will load the gear train.

o With the gear train loaded you can now adjust the escapement so the clock will run with the proper
beat. Do this by moving the anchor to a point where one of the escape wheel pins rest on one of the
anchor pallets near the middle of its angled end. With the pendulum hanging straight down tighten
the clamp on the impulse lever. It needs to be pretty tight.

2

o Move the pendulum to release the pallet and allow the escape wheel to turn and lock on the other
pallet (one tick). With the pendulum again hanging straight down observe the position of the pin on
the pallet. It should also be at about the middle of the angled surface.

You are now ready to start the clock.

o Move the pendulum to one side and release it. If you did everything right the clock should run at least
for several beats. The bob only needs to move about two inches off center for the escapement to
release.

o Allow a few minutes for the pendulum motion to stabilize.

o Listen for an even tick tock beat. If the beat is uneven you may need to make a slight adjustment to
the angle of the anchor. With a little practice you will be able to adjust it correctly with ease.

o If the clock stops double check for binding in the gear train. If none is found add a small amount of
lead shot to the drive weight box and try again. Your objective should be to use only the amount of
weight required to make the pendulum travel just enough to release the escapement.

This escapement is what is called a dead beat escapement so a little over travel is okay and maybe even
desirable, but using more weight than needed will cause the clock to tick louder and wear out quicker.
The weights specified on the drawings should be more than adequate to keep a well built clock running.

o When you are satisfied that the clock is going to run okay start adjusting the speed with the adjustment
nut at the bottom of the pendulum. If it is running too slow adjust the pendulum bob up until it runs too
fast them back off in small increments until you have the correct speed. This process may take several
days, even weeks.

Congratulations you are finished. All you need to do now is remember to wind your new clock every day.

Winding instructions:

Most clocks have a maintaining spring built into arbor T-1 to keep power on the gear train during winding. This
clock does not, but it can be wound very easily by placing a finger on a tooth of the arbor T-1 wheel and
pressing down to keep it turning counterclockwise while using the other hand to pull down on the drive rope on
the right side of the rope pulley to lift the drive weight.

General care:

You should get in the habit of winding your clock at about the same time every day. You should stop it any
time you will be away for more than 34 hours after it is wound to avoid letting it run down. No clock should be
allowed to run down or forced to run backwards by turning the hands backwards while it is running. This one is
especially susceptible to crashing the escapement if power is taken off of the escape wheel. The un-powered
escape wheel will likely stop midway between ticks while the pendulum is still swinging allowing the tip of a
pallet to crash into one of the escapement pins. When this happens, the impulse lever will be knocked out of
position and you will have to realign the escapement to get the clock to run again.

The bearings in this clock do not need oiling. You may need to put a single drop of good clock oil on each
pallet every two or three years. Otherwise just keep it clean and enjoy watching it run.

80"
67 3/4"
49"
REF
62"
1"
1"
WOOD CLOCK WC5
WC5-A

Description:
Project:
Drawing Scale: 1:10
Drawn By: J. Randle
ARRANGEMENT
7 13/64"
FLOOR
NOTE: WHEN MOUNTED AS SHOWN,
CLOCK WILL RUN APPROXIMATELY
34 HOURS BETWEEN WINDINGS.
MOUNTING LOWER THAN SHOWN
WILL SHORTEN RUN TIME.
WC5
CUTTING PATTERNS

DESIGNED BY: J. RANDLE
DESIGN DATE: 09/12/05

The information contained in these
drawings is the sole property of
The cutting patterns in this package are designed to print full scale from Adobe Acrobat Reader
TM
on a
standard laser jet or ink jet printer. Page scaling should be set to None; Auto-Rotate and Center should be
turned off; and the print quality should be set to 300 dpi.

It is recommended that all pattern sheets be printed on good quality adhesive backed paper to simplify
attaching the patterns to the face of the stock to be cut.

To attach the patterns: cut them apart, remove the backing, and stick them to the face of the material to be
cut. The pattern should remain in place until all drilling, sawing, and edge sanding is completed.

WC5-02-01 (BOTTOM SECTION)
CUTTING PATTERN
M
A
T
C
H

L
I
N
E
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
MATCH LINE
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-01 (TOP SECTION)
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
M
A
T
C
H

L
I
N
E
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
MATCH LINE
CUTTING PATTERN
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
M
A
T
C
H

L
I
N
E
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
MATCH LINE
CUTTING PATTERN
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
M
A
T
C
H

L
I
N
E
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-04 (LEFT HALF)
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
M
A
T
C
H

L
I
N
E
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-02-04 (RIGHT HALF)
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
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C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERNS
WC5-03-03-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-03-04
rights reserved
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MUST PRINT
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All
C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-03-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-04-03
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-05-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-05-04
rights reserved
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MUST PRINT
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C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-05-05
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-05-03
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-08-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-09-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-06-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-06-01
CUTTTING PATTERN
WC5-07-01
rights reserved
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MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
All
C
1"
1"
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
FULL SCALE
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C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-12-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-10-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-11-02
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-09-03
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-11-01
CUTTING PATTERNS
WC5-12-04-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-12-04-02
rights reserved
THIS BLOCK
MUST PRINT
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All
C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERNS
WC5-13-01
CUTTING PATTERN
WC5-12-04-02
rights reserved
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MUST PRINT
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C
1"
1"
CUTTING PATTERNS
WC5-14-01

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